(StWFS
EVENING LEDGER PHILADBIiPHIA'. WEDNESDAY. APBIIi W, 1915:
8
HiOOK FOR THREE BIG "C'S"
IN MEN'S NEW FASHIONS
Comfort, Convenience and Common Sense to Be Guiding
Stars in Shaping My Lord's Attire During
Hot Summer Season.
By W. HANCOCK PAYNE
' The eeason of country nnd woodlnnd
itrolls. of motorlne tours, of flatting ex
etfltlons, of frotf, of tennis, yachting and
camping m "'
nind of business In town during the hent
of (ummer), ts now at our threshold,
bringing to men ns well nB to tho falrcV
of the species tho RBC-old question of
wht to wear nnd how to wear It.
This word has nothing to do with In
Units diversity of fomlnlno attire, but Is
written to lay down a general outline for
the sartorial guidance of Philadelphia
imtn and young men.
I Comfort, convenience nnd common sense
9 1, the keynote that will govern correct
h both for tho business man and the
nan seewng out ui uuw i(u
lnc the spring and summer now at hand.
There Is no doubt that tho present tend
noy for men of all ages la towards youth
.i im. and tho hot seRBon will nnd pro-
iltelr the some style of suit on almost
It many men who nre abovo 40 ns will re
seen upon men under 30. Tho tlmo Is past,
and this season emphasizes It with more
.v.nAim than ever before, whon men
, beyond 0 aro considered old or when a
man oeyonu on. ,.b"'". ,......
Ing In tho chlmnoy corner with a crutch
In ono hand and a patent medicine
brochuro In the other.
CLOTHES AS EMANCIPATOR.
ij Nothing emphasizes tins more decisive
y or sharply man me ciouipb DumneBs
men are wearing. This Is because
American ctyles for American men have
become a fact. Our designers, during
the past year, have attained pre-emln-
t enCO over uio xaanitm uuinuriucs oi
ft Europe.
In the smartness or xno garments mey
kvi created and in tho artistic Ideals of
& grace and harmony In tho lines of men's
ClOtnUlg mey imve wuu luuapiuuuua cut-
cmj. Since the 'beginning of tho Euro
pean war the. prestige of tho American
dealgncr and tnllor, not only In New
Ynrk and In Philadelphia but In Chicago
j well, has gained an ascendency which
L la freely predicted will never again be
h taken from tnom.
Summer clothing will do absolutely
without podding of any kind. The
'' elotha aro soft and form fitting. Tho
f fronts and the snouiaors aro entirely
'without stiffening and lining is often nl
' together omitted and whon used the
:rcoat Is either quarter or half lined.
Trousers also nre snug luting and tho
legs aro narrower than usual, being 184
to 19 Inches at tho kneo nnd 15 to 1GV&
Inches at tho instep.
On the new coats, collars and lapels
are wide. This Is especially notablo In
the one-button sack coat, while even the
Rmoit oonservatlvo coats this summer will
how a wide lapel. On tho one-button
lack coat the lupoid roll softly to the
'button, from which tho skirt or? tho
coat curves In a most graceful cutaway,
.making an effect not unllko tho letter X.
Pockets have more significance than
usual. Patch pockets will bo in high
fa or, and younger men will wenr so
called slashed, slanting or swing pockets,
thoico In this matter will be governed
o taste, and tho Chestnut and Market
street stores aro amply ready to sup
ply the demand for any of theso styles.
NORFOLK JACKETS WIN PLACE.
Norfolk Jackets have attained a secure
placo among Phltndelphlans, and they
will be seen both In town nnd out with
more frequency than over. No particular
stylo of Norfolk coat can be outlined,
since dozens of different models nre be
ing shown. Wisdom, howover, dictates
that tho plaits In tho back be of sufficient
width to glvo tho greatest possible free
dom to tho shoulders and back, so that no
matter what form of outdoor pleasure a
man may Indulgo In, ho will be unham
pered In action when he wears his coat.
It has been said that a gentleman Is
never seen In town, without his vest, but
It would bo ridiculous for any man to
adhere strictly to this rule during a hot,
swoltorlng, humid Philadelphia day.
It might bo well to mention that the
double-breasted vest Is duo for a great
revival tho moro prominent Chestnut
street clothiers having had them on dis
play ns early as last fait. The vogue of the
fancy vest Is at hand and several of tho
old standard models of double-breasted
waistcoats aro being shown, whllo that
In highest favor among a limited and
well-informed patronage Is tho double
breasted vest tapering to ono button at
tho bottom with long cutaway points,
On tho whole, vests are much lower In
cut this season,
COMFORT IS SLOGAN.
I have snld that comfort, convenience
and common sonso will rule the season's
dress for men nnd critical examination
of the preceding paragraphs will show
this to be eminently true for tho business
man.
Dress for the out-of-doors, ot course,
must always bo comfortablo nnd you will
find that this season In tho country clubs,
at tho seashore, In tho country and In
tho mountains will register ii great Im
provement In tho neat appearance of men
who aro advocates of alt Borts of out-of-door
sports without the sacrifice of an
lota of personal comfort.
I will not outline hero tho particular
dress for a particular sport or for any
particular form of recreation, because
they aro far too well nnd widely known
by tho averago business man who goes
away every summer for rest and play.
It Is sufficient to say that flannel
trousers, soft shirts with soft detachable
collars and soft turn back cuffs, Norfolk
coats and tweed sack suits, soft whlto
liata, soft tweed hats, tweed caps, a. couple
of soft wool sweaters with collars open or
closed at tho throat as fancy dictates,
canvas Bhoes with rubber solc3, black
Windsor ties and a plentiful supply of
tho lightest possible nthlctlo underwear
will make up tho traveling bags most
nppropriato for men who will go out
Into tho open with tho Intention of get
ting tho most exercise with tho least
sacrifice of comfort during tho welcome
senson now approaching.
SOME MALE FASHIONS FOR THE 1915 SEASON
GODS OF HABERDASHERYDOM
DEFY PARCHING RAYS OF SUN
BJlK KRICkEBS
AWE ML W6HT
AT ,bWCUJ&
BAJ1S OR.
COUKT
TtTi WYvli irv
THEYoRENOTmJj
A U MODE.
. DOW 00 ifv
put JiJ? Straws !i& V J Z
Mra. V ib WP f X S rJ
Jtl IWVTW Xl WA
ym JlwL A Mtr lA.ltQll APPFAB-vmr STRAW HAT --
i) r) W III in ) W f3"3?n seewto
II 1 1 ' Sr W (Wj REGU1ATING
Yl y i . I tTTIj ttP Mlcwi r Hif iKl -
V I fr,LJk mm. J?z3Nom& Mw stff-boso
i I " w. j1(oesTKp mm mm f v
S SBNWG SUW Fa. SOLDIERS. Pf MM JlW
m t. Ill
Jewelers Kcwnrd Policeman
Policeman Schmidt, of tho 8th and Jef
ferson streets station, today received no
tice that the Jewelers' Protective Alll
ntico of the United States has awarded
him n check of J 100) as a reward for his
brnvert- In caodirlnir John VnHfinwnltl.
of Hi New Marftet treC and Joseph
Vazwloskl. of 1212 Poplar street, ort th
night of March H, after tho twd men had
broken Into tho Jewelry store of Gross
man, Goldstein & llorbftck, 7th street
nnd airard avenue.
Millions of Women
continue to use
r S.EW
VLUSW HATS
www
FILVA ACTORS-
OOUBCE BREASTED
AISTCOATO VJTTtt.
LAPEIS AHD OKE-
EurraK 'CQW
4Re.AUPATTO
SaAETHWtf LRE.
THAT-
( - 7$--&JC
continue to use gjf
every day
When Cleaning House,
When Washing Clothes,
When doing U kinds of
soap-and-water work, because
it saves them work, it saves
them time and money if used
according to directions.
Don't hurt your hands.
Fels-Soap Powder
Sweet and pleasant to use.
RIGGS BANK FIGHT
TO BE BITTER ONE
Question of Veracity Involved
in Suit Against Treasury Officials.
It'a going to bo a glorious, cool sum-
mtr for men this year, thanks to the
tjtnereslty of tho gods of haberdashery-
iom. Comfort, ease ana common senso
'ire the characteristic traits of tho hot-
-weather stylos in nais, collars, sniria,
locks and shoes. No moro groaning un
der the weleht of a six-ply straw hat
, frthat towers to heaven and beyond. No
l more aonar-a-aay luuaurjr uma, m uiuc,
I? to keep In clean collars. Nor will tho
"iradlant hues of noddies, shirts and
jflbcka add to the heat of a suffocating
'VAiiinif jlnv. Klnir Fashion's hirelings
have been ordered to "back water" a bit
lintil the bounds of a safe-and-Bane mode
have been reached for tho first tlmo in
thrae years. j
Light texture, light color and sensible
lines have been decreed for the summer
Beau Brummcl. And from the descrip
tions given by leading haberdashers, plc
turesqueness will not be found wanting
In this saner arrangement of things. In
fact, the samples seen in the first ship
ments of apparel to reach this city nre
acciucaiy aiiracure.
Undoubtedly tho fenturo that will ap
peal moat to men of nil ages and classes
la that low, soft collars will be in vogue.
It s predicted that the low, English
round, unstarched collars will be worn
4Yen moro than the stiff collars this
year. This is tho first tlmo that the
oft collar has clven promise of super-
ledlng the uncomfortablo but more
dressy starched article. Beside tho
rounded front, which meets close at the
lop ana then separates In graceful curves
Into a fairly largo tie-space nt tho bot
tom, the long, pointed tip collars will
alio be popular. These too will bo worn
(n the soft style.
BOW ttpth "rwinn mcif"
Hjr'After a lapse of years bow-ties have
finally coraa nt0 thelr own "Batwlngs"
Jill flap under nearly every chin. These
uw wm De seen In light silk colors, gen
erally with dlaconal nf "D Jnlnvllln"
Icroia stripes. Although of lighter tex-
re, me scarfs will not be cut on the
jUa, thus making a larger knot. Four-ln-
wuios wm also be "en regie." They will
In more modest colora In patterns,
I
poka-dots, or embroidered. Scarf pins
will bo noticeable by their absence. Dur
ing tho past few months, eanorlnllv
f there has been very little demand for tie
aaornment8 ana nothing lias been chosen
particularly for summer wear. Pins will
not bo out of place, however.
Ncgllgo shirts with soft, turn-back
cults will add greatly to tho wearer's
comfort. Stiff shirts have practically been
"tabooed" by the "authorities," An un
usually wide latitude has been afforded
tho individual In choosing what particu
lar color or design he shall wear. In
fact, almost anything In tho way of a
negllgo shirt is acceptable. However,
fairly wido stripes of a conservative na
turo will probably predominate, with plain
colors a closo second. The only restric
tion on cuff links is to avoid tho black-and-white
contrast so popular a short
time ago.
Another improvement this year Is In the
hose. Socks will be nlmost entirely In
plain colors. A modest "clock," either in
the same color or In mild contrast, running
up tho side, will be proper, as will also
a "mottled" or two-tone effect Flashy
colors will be avoided as much as possi
ble. Light shades will rule In gloves,
with mocha and buff especially popular.
SENSIBLE HATS.
Hats will be much more sensible this
year. The four Inch crown of last year
will bo reduced to 3V4 inches, while the
two Inch brim will be extended to from
2U to 2 inches. This will give the
straw hats much the appearance they had
before tho exaggerated English effect was
introduced two years ago. There will
be some demand In certain quarters for
hats with even larger crowns than last
year, but these will not bo considered In
good taste. Panama hats will be very
popular, according to tho present outlook.
They will bo given a more distinctive ap
pearance than heretofore by being slight
ly tapered In tho crown and having a
rolled edge. The taper will be missing
this year from the stiff hats. Leghorns,
or soft straws, will be worn, too.
As tho weather becomes warmer, Palm
Beach colors In tics, shirts and nocks will
become more popular. In short, almost
anything that will add to comfort will
be the proper thing this summer.
piqNITARIES AT JUBILEE
OF CATHOLIC UNIVERSITY
iCsrdinals, Bishops, Blonslgnori nnd
k Priests to Attend.
WASHINGTON. Anrll H.Pnrdlniil nih.
kn, of Baltimore: Cardinal Farlev. of
fow York; Cardinal O'Connell, of Bos
jo; the three American CardinalB, and a
We number of .bishops and high dlgnt
w i,ot tne Catholic ohurch, arrived In
K ston today t0 attend the silver
wuee celebration tomorrow of the found-
IfM ot me uathoiio University of Amerl-
tAmOng thosa Mnwlad tnr h InhllAa
ff'.Wahopa, moro than SO of the mon-
T-fiMUCI. OUU npf.lta on V..hJ -m
But a mwi rrom aU parta or'h United
ITha cardinals today attended the sprln
cetlnur nt th. -..,. -L- i
".'. Cardinal fllhhnnn- nrAeMl an l.A
WW did over a meeting ta.ter of the arch
mop, of the United States.
BiVki , or "8 university's faculty to-
F'Sht will tan,.. . ......I -- J.i.
iea from othA,- imiv.,BiH.a n.n.
?nUd jn the congress of tho hierarchy
W qtlate rom 60 Institutions of learn-
ICardfnai niKv. .,,, .j. ....
iiin.oCelebratIon tomorrow and Cardl-
51 O Conn. 1 win j-i, ... . j..
ISQUrse. 'f opening ois-
ing, accompanied by three letters from
responsible persons, stating that the ap
plicant is musical, worthy and financially
unable to buy a piano, The distribution
Is made possible through tho Heppe
Memorial Fund, which was established In
1907 by F, J, Heppe as a memorial to
his father, C, J, 'Heppe, founder of the
business.
ENpe Will Distrihut rtrntrnmont
M ? nectl(" with the celebration of
kr Dvui Ann v.pBBM. - .,.- . ...
ttoPl, J?on' 10 B1ua Plans anl
Soor f be distributed to deserving
Erf nlllM throush the cltv. The
tn,m. . ""'""'acturers give away
n.ment, annually, but this year de-
- - W UU1IIIIH TIIII V.IIV.- All
Minn. --". a luiuuflf. flij v
Employes at Society Wedding
WEBSTER. Mass., April 11. Three
thousand employes of the Slater Cotton
Mills here were guests at a wedding
feast on the spacious lawn of the mag
nificent Slater estata today, following the
marriage of Miss Esther Slater, a society
girl, of Washington. Now York and Bos
ton, to Sumner WellB, of New York.
Going to Send the Family
to the Shore This Summer?
If so, It Is high time for you to
give active thought to a location.
This year the demand will be un
usually large and earlier than here
tofore. Whether you want a furnished
apartment or cottage or board and
room at any hotel or private house,
Ledger Central can help you.
A special Investigator ts now at
Atlantlo City and will find what you
want If Ledger Central does not
have It on file.
Similar service can b rendered on
other New Jersey resorts.
Tell Ledger Central ab,out your re
quirements now. Thera la no charge.
WASHINGTON, April 14.-Tho Issue of
veracity today was clearly drawn be
tween tho Rlggs National Bank and
Comptroller of the Currency Williams ns
a result of the suit to restrain tho Treas
ury officials from Interfering with the
affairs of tho bank.
In their statement, replying to tho
Comptroller's allegations of Irregularities
charged against tho bank officials, the
latter declare the Comptroller did not
state "tho whole truth" with regard to
certain brokerage transactions,
"Another exampleo of the Comptroller's
effort to mislead tho public," the state
ment reads, "can bo founil In his state
ment that the stock brokerage business
which certain of tho ofllcers of tho bank
formerly conducted In their Individual
capacities has tempted young men and
women to ruin In speculation.
"The Comptroller knows,, or at least
ought to know, that such a charge Is
utterly unfounded."
Tho bank also points to Mr. Williams'
Intimation that tho Department of Justice
hns had the affairs of the banjc under
consideration for some time, and then
cites the statement, Issued by the depart
ment, asserting that the matter had not
been before It for ofllclal consideration
until the beginning ot the suit.
LouH D. Brandels, of Boston, who has
been retained as special counsel for tne
defense In the injunction suit, and offi
cials of the Department of Justice and
Treasury were busy preparing their re
ply to the bank which, under the order
of tho court, must be answered on Fri
day. Punished for Annoying Children
George Erlenmalr, 62 years old, 102S
North Front street, was sentenced to
three months In the House of Correction
today on the accusation of John Camp
bell, of 1003 New Market street, and Po
lloeman Scott, of the Front and Master
streets station, that he was annoying chil
dren. Scott testified that he had arrested
the man about two years ago on the same
charge.
KITTY'S BROWN EYES
COST ADMIRER $200
Hungarian Drink Also Inspired
Him to Part With Coin.
Meggylclkl caused It meggylelkl and a
pair of sparkling brown eyes. Meggy
lelkl Is a fragrant Hungarian drink nnd
tho eyes belong to Kitty Martin, who,
they say, was born near Belgrade, Servla,
in spite ot her name.
That Is' why Gabor Klsh, 32 years old,
was held In ball for further henrlng by
Magistrate Emcly in tho Front and Mas
ter streets pollco station today, and
Joseph Burnos, "at 937 North Randolph
street, Is bemoaning tho loss of his dead
wife's Insurance money. Kitty has It,
ho says, and Kitty she ts gone, she and
her pretty brown eyes.
Burnos met Kitty, tho story runs, at a
Hungarian war relief ball at tho Mer
cantile Hall, Franklin and Poplar streets,
March 21. Their eyes met. she smiled
nnd Burnos surrendered. They danced.
Between dances, as they sipped the sweot
meggylelkl, Burnos told Kitty of tho 11000
ho had, his dead wife's Insurance money,
Kitty's bright eyes grew brighter and on
the way home she suggested that ho buy
tho "International Servian" restaurant,
nt 907 North 3d street, which she and
Gabor Klsh were conducting. Gabor, sho
said, would sell It. She would help Burnos
run it.
Burnos called on a day arranged and
found the little cafe crowded to the doors.
Gabor and Kitty and Burnos, drinking
meggylelkl at a corner table, arranged
the sale and Burnos paid (200 for the
place. Then he drank more meggylelkl
and became sleepy. Kitty offered to hold
his pocketbook white ho slept and he gave
it to her, ho said, with 1760 in It his wife's
Insurance money.
When Burnos awoke tho place was
dark, the shades drawn. He called for
Kitty, but she was gone. So was Gabor.
He opened the restaurant for the large
crowds he expected, but no one came.
Tho next day his receipts were $3.12. He
waited for Kitty to return. He grew
excited and smoked 15 packages of
Hungarian cigarettes a day. Monday aft
ernoon he gave up In despair and swore
out warrants for Gabor Klsh and Kitty.
Gabor was arrested by Detectives Dauf
man and Bender yesterday, but Kitty
she Is gone, with her pretty brown
eyes.
Farm Boy Causes Panic
Joseph Boucher, a 19-year-old farm boy
from Ablngton, will bo turned over to
Pollco Surgeon John Wanamakcr, 3d, to
day for obscrvntlon. Tho youth caused n
panic at Sth and Mnrkct streets last night
when he suddenly drew a revolver and
began firing. Two of tho bullets ruined a
$750 plato glass window In a department
store. When ho was arraigned In tho
Night Court, Boucher said tho only ex
planation ho could make for trying to
shoot up tho city was that he had been
drinking.
FILL YOUR COAL BINS
LETTER'S
BEST COAL
Satisfied Customers for 30 Years.
2240 lbs. to every ton for 30 years.
The finest and most complete
coal yard in Philadelphia.
Egg, $G.25 Stove, $6.50
Chestnut, $6.75
Largest Round Pea, $4.75
Our auto trucks deliver north of
Market St. and cast of 30th St.
Owen Letter's Sons
Trenton & Westmoreland
mmmm
oxxaconHSHTrrrrnni
S!
K&&
A.pril
l.
is the final oppor
tunity to get your
name in the summer
issue of the Bell
Directory
No Other Book
Will be Issued
Until Late in
September
Get the Business
Office, Filbert 2790
fortelephoneservice
or change of listing.
For advertising
space ask for Di
rectory Advertising
Manager.
rspi
k
THERE were elev0en
couples at a shore house
party last Sunday. Of the
eleven men present seven
wore our new "Parkway"
Suits One Button Sack
Coat Authentic, style for
Spring and Summer.
Pretty good average?
$15, $18, $20, $25
William 11 Wanamaker
121719 Chestnut St.
L I
mi hi mi mil i mi i cr" -i...TC.----- in ri.rTMM
r
5
Facts Versus
Fallacies
FACT w a real state of things. FALLACY is an appar
ently genuine but really illogical statement or argument.
THAT Prohibition is a FALLACY, inasmuch as it docs
not prohibit, is found in the FACTS given by the United
States Internal Revenue Department.
TN 1007 there were 35,000,000 people living under "dry"
laws, and in the year ending June 30, 1007, there were
produced 58,622,002 barrels of fermented liquors (31 gal
lons to the barrel), and 174,712,218 gallons of distilled
spirits.
J'mmt5?
jpdnL S
ii
I
Iff
1899-1G& Gallon
1907-23$ Gallons
1914-25 Gallons
tVr Person
TN 1914 there were 48,000,000 people living under "dry"
x laws, yet there was an increaso in nroduction of alcoholic
drinks. For the year ending June 30, 1014, there were pro- A
duced 60,187,473 barrels of fermented liquors (31 gallons uf
to the barrel) and 185,353,383 gallons of distilled spirits.
pROM the above FACTS one conclusion Is manifest:
The greater the growth of prohibition" legislation the
greater the increase, per capita, in the consumption of
alcoholic beverages.
TJUT in terser form: The more Prohibition, the more
1 liquor consumed. The United States Government, by
its figures, vouches for the above statement. And with
48,000,000 persons living under prohibition legislation, a
greater quantity of alcoholic beverages was consumed1 last
year per person than ever before in this country's history.
?-'? ,
TT is a FALLACY to suppose that Prohibition keeps men
from indulging in alcoholic stimulants. It is a FACT
vouched for by the United States Government that Pro
hibition prevents only the legalized and regulated sale of
liquor
FACTS
ttlOM
UNITED STATES
GOVERNMEHT
STATISTICS
tSayaMtbfe' '
Philadelphia Lager Beer Brewers' Association
(The nptf article will appear Saturday, April jWi)
n
Apru U. and all must be la writ-