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10-1 ' JBKIHa L15P0EB-PHILAD13LPHIA MONDAY, DISCBM 14, 1914. mwTTTir
NEW FASHIONS, AND" CHRISTMAS SUGGESTIONS TAT VILLjNTERESQVEgYWiAg
Modes of the Hour
The deml-tollctte Is very welcome in
"these days of nuctlon In tho morning,
auction In the afternoon and nuctlon at
flight. The question of what to wear
at the afternoon bridge has been various
V answered. One girl wears a charming
three-piece suit of velvet, combined with
chiffon nnd lace. Made in the newest
shads of Ilusslan green, with n bodice ot
sand-colored chiffon and dull gold lace
nnd the tiniest touch ot fitch, the frock
Is stunning.
Another girl answers this debatable
question by wearing her tailored suit and
a lovely Georgette crepe shirtwaist. The
suit was of dull Uobelln bluo broadcloth,
and the shirtwaist was of palest apricot.
It had beautiful hand-embroidered lapels
and closed with the daintiest ot silk cords
laced down tho front. t
A dainty little girl wears the frock illus
trated today. It Is a real doml-tollette,
nd most appropriate for the afternoon
affair which Is too elaborate for the little
trotteur and too early for the evening
gown. This frock Is simplicity Itself, and
combines tho newest bolero effect with
the wide skirt Hklrts. by the way, are
t-ttlnir wI.1a, nnrl wMr RVurv AnV. Thrt
Itttto Jacket has the ruffled collar In back
lined with tho white to relievo the all
black effect.
Tho skirt la made of pussy-willow taf
feta, banded with the black. The gath
ered effect about the waist lino Is mose
becoming to the slim figure. And wo
men must be slim these dayol The whole
frock Is simplicity Itself, and Its charm
consists In the contrasting materials and
the beauty of them.
Tho olose-ntting, transparent alcoves nro
mnde of fine lace. Theso may bo called
"pneumonia models," but they are de
cidedly smart.
Christmas "Doing" Versus
Christmas Giving
"What la your Idea nbout Christmas
presents?" asked Eleanorc, as sho settled
herself In a cozy chair and curled her
self Into tho most comfortablo of posi
tions. "I think they'ro nn unmitigated nui
sance. Tou only glvo becnuso you have
to, and you're broko for months after
ward. I think Christmas Day, Instead
of being an orgy of giving, should be an
orgy of doing," nnswered Doris. She
was pretty, vd-hended and very do
clded. "Why, my dear, what do you mcanT I
never heard such a queer Idea," said her
friend. "Do tell us what your Idea of
doing !fl? I always knew you had soma
weird socialistic tendencies nbout you
aomowhere."
"Silly! Of course, I'm socialistic, in
that I believe that everybody Is right
fully entitled to happiness on Christmas
Day. Tou know yourselves that there Is
so much sorrow nnd poverty and Ill
ness and disappointment all during the
year, and nil this can bo made to fade
Into tho perspective of a memory If
peoplo only know how to do it."
"Thoro sho goes again! It must bo
that that hair of hers has affected her
wits," suggested Eleanore.
"No, Indeed; I mean every word I say.
A poor man doesn't want to remember
his poverty now, does ho? Ho can't
forget It If he has nothing to eat on
Christmas; but he will be greatly in
clined to bo hopeful it his children have
a. few little toys and somo one sends
them provisions enough to keep them
for a while. That's what I mean by
an orgy of doing doing something for
others.
"Tho great Idea about Christmas Is
peace. Peace on earth; peace for every
body. And you wouldn't be peacefully
Inclined, my dear, If you had to go
hungry, knowing that thousands of
others wero stuftlng themselves with a
lot of things they'll be sorry for later on.
It isn't a peaceful thought.
"I'll tell you what I'm going to do.
I'm going to cut out all my Christmas
giving but to my Immediate family and
dearest friends. And their gifts will be of
the very plainest. I'll riot spend $10 In all
Then I'm going to take tho rest of the
monoy dad gives me for my gift and
use It to advantage. The feeling of
being entirely Independent of this sordid
give-and-take spirit will be reward
enough. You won't need the prayers of
tho poor, little, hungry kiddles or the
tears of Joy in their mothers' eyes to
make your Christmas a success.
"You sound like a political orator on
his first stump speech, Doris, but you'll
keep your word, I know. I'll Join you
whenever you're ready to start. Have
a game ot bridge?"
Neckwear for Milady's Gift
Since the high collar has come into
-Vogue, Milady has to put away all her
comfortable turn-down collars, and af
fect the one which is high in front. A
timely suggestion for tho Christmas
shopper would be some ot the stunning
varieties a prominent Chestnut street
shop is showing.
Charming little hand-embroidered or
gandie collars, with high-plaited backs,
come With or without cuffs to match,
and range in price from BO cents to $3 a
et.
The popular roll collar can be had in
organdie, too, and has plcot, hand-embroidered,
or dainty lace edges, with the
aweetest cuffs to match, and costs from
11.30 to ?U0 a set.
All-lace collars, with prettily plaited
backs, cost from. W cents to 12.50 apiece.
The little Testes is another favorite
with fickle Dame Fashion. These coma
in lovely embroidered net, chiffon, crepe
da chine, sheer batiste, orrandle and
Innumerable other dainty fabrics. The
embroidered pique ones are popular,
too, and can b bought at almost any
price, ranging from 2 to IS. These have
the cutest collars Imaginable, many
showing the military' collars and the
pieadilly effect
A mora expensive innovation Is the
collar made entirely of curly ostrich
feathers; it costs ?3 to JU apiece.
Sparjish lace scarfs, in beautiful blaek
and white, cost from W to 133 apiece,
and the plain chiffon scarfs, in all colors,
cost from II to J8.
Sweet Girl Graduates
It la predicted tha.t the time to not far
distant when women will be admitted' fa
Jibe college department of the University
of PeuMrlvanlA and receive the degree of
baobelar of arts.
Csrrtscondcnce ef gentral interest
to woman reader win be printed en
this page. Such corveapendence should
fee addrtswd to the Woman's editor,
Evening Ledger. .
ALLTHATYOUGETHEREIS
iMOb HUCUIVW U.tltV
We tciv t&lewttpu of ttricttr frh
U tvtrj &T to wjtir In but mt th(
4uii44 of diMii-iatfiuttio coaMimax Oar
era r aiu-ruiu4 -Uiw? mut be wfeu pre
tiOiu ihm (v btt ur w il malt read M)
yjwr siucMtM- 'ttf sis for tow ul er4tr.
A DELIGHTFUL LITTLE DEMI-TOILETTE IN THE NEWEST MODE
EIGHT HOURS OF OX YGEN
By MRS. CHRISTINE FREDERICK
AUTHOR O FNEW HOUSEKEEPING.
Not every housewife can have eight
hours a day outdoors, but nvery one can
have eight hours a night outdoors if she
adopts the "outdoor-sleeping" habit. One
of the chief criticisms leveled against
housework Is that It is too confining and
does not give the woman sufficient time
for outdoor physical exercise and abun
dant fresh air. Kitchen odor, bad ventila
tion, the dust and dirt attendant upon
various cleaning processes, all these aro
urged as reasons against the wholesome
ness of housework. We know that proper
ventilation and comfort can be secured in
every household task, and that by proper
scheduling and arranging of work every
woman can manage to have time for out
doors dally.
But tq no one group should the outdoor
sleeping habit appeal more strongly than
to the housekeeper. It is not solely the
adoption of a fad which has made Ame
ricans so keen to follow tho plan of sleep
ing in the open. When we think that for
six or eight hours our lungs are con
stantly breathing In sleep, we see how
Important It is that every moment at this
should insure the purest oxygen. No mat
ter how well ventilated our homes, offices
or places of work may be, there is only
one place where constant pure air can be
secured, and that is outdoors.
Outdoor sleeping can be as comfort
able and warm as that within walls.
Architects are solving the problems of
the sleeping porch. The housewife must
understand the proper fitting of outdoor
beds, and it necessary lose'her aense of
What a bed must look like in favor ot
solid comfort. The outdoor bed does
not permit any hanging valances, spreads
or ahams. It is modeled after the sleep
ing quarters ot flaranao and various
places abroad which lure for years
proved the benefit of the practice.
The secret of warm outdoor sleeping
la to havo fully as much under as over
the sleeper, The coldest air being near
the floor. It la from under the sleeper
that the coldest air currents approach.
Therefcre. we must protect the mattress
with several thicknesses of blankets. In
some case two mattresses are essential.
In no case can sheets of cotton or linen
bo used, aa they absorb and hold the
cold and are tho acme ot discomfort,
feeling Indeed like a wet fabrlo to the
touch.
The whlullke blankets, so often dear
to the housewife, should give place to
mora sombre tones ot gray or brown
natural wool. Various kinds ot sleeping
bjigs are on the market, and, while very
excellent, are not superior., to ordinary
blankets, well tucked in and arranged.
The night robe must be abundantly long
to cover the feet. The pajamas or trou
serltke garment with feet is the best,
because .there can then be no possible
danger ot the extremities becoming un
covered; and cold feet mean no sleep.
Pillows must also be covered with
some flannel-llko material, anything
other than the conventional pillow case.
With a bed so arranged, sleeping be
tween wool, with as much under as over
and the right kind of garment, outdoor
sleeping becomes sheer Joy and fun,
"Nerves," that "tired feeling," "Monday
blues" nnd all other alts of womankind
are banished by eight solid hours ot
oxygen. You can Just feel the air cur
rents coming Into that lung furnace of
yours and being burned and passing out
again. Incidentally throwing (Alt a. warm,
diffusing glow. No radiated heat from
fireplace or stove can compare with this
self-generated heat which the burning
ot pure oxygen develops In the body. It
Is electrical and thrills; It revitalizes.
Copyrlsht. 1014, by Mrs. Christine Frederiok.
ITiHll1lTlVllJW1t',DJMlmWUIii.l!i
pili
Gurnse
Butter
Coupons
should be re
turned before
December 15
The Closing
' of the Contest
P.F.BrownC&Co.
Gifts
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tfot (jin Something Both Ifs&ful
and Aastlng, lk&
Furs of ihe
fetter Qmde
for M th family
X
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A Dress-up Luncheon
for the Jnvalid
,bear Peggy!
Last Wednesday was Aunt Alice's birth
day. So mother and I thought we'd llkd
to give her a little surprise. Tou know
she's beeVi a "shut-In" for years.
We Invited rive of her old, old friends
nnd fixed the table In the living ro,m for
the party. We wanted to make things
just as gay and festive as possible, jo
we carried everything out In pink. In
the eentro of the table wo had n vase of
lovely pink tea roses, tied with a largo
tulle bow, nnd nt each place a tiny bou
tonnlere of little artificial pink roses.tled
with pink ribbon to the place cards. Aunt
Alice Is on a sort of diet not n strict one,
thouEh so we had!
Cream of Celery.
Crackers.
Chicken Hash on Toast.
Daked Stuffed Potatoes, fitewed Tomatoes.
Ice Cream.
Fancy Cakes. Bonbons.
Coffee.
'The chicken hash was tho white meat
diced (boiled first, of courso), with a
cream dressing, well seasoned, but not too
highly, and served on toast. It was very
light, but appetising. Tho Ice cream,
cakes nnd candy were pink nnd white,
which helped carry out the decoration.
I thought you'd llko to know nbout this,
ns I remembered your cousin's anntver-
rary Is qulto soon, and I know nothing
would bo mors appreciated than a llttlo
surprise llko this. Hoping I havo been
able to give you a timely suggestion, 1 am,
Your affectionate friend,
OLIVIA.
The Girl at Central
Her Chances and Work
The work of the , telephone girl can
prove exceedingly Interesting, and her
chances of getting on are splendid, It
she sets about her dally routine In a
whole-hearted way.
At first she will find things somewhat
confusing and will probably feel more
than a little flustered. Later on, how
ever, when ehb has grown more nc
customed -to the routine, sho will find
herself doing the right thing Involun
tarily. There Is a certain danger that the work
may become too meclinnlcnl. The tele
phone girl may work too much by rote.
I yJOTL J)
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I ii i -
The Girl Who Works
ELLEN
ADAF
When You Bake Bread.
IJo suro that your yeast Is perfectly
fresh, If you use the comprossed kind,
Keep the bread warm from the time
the sponge is started until the loaves
are out in the oven.
Dftko the bread thoroughly over n slow
fire.
Knead well and give plenty of time for
tho dough to rlso after each kneading.
Use n good flour. Never try to mnka
brend with a new flour.
When You Bake a Cake
Uso the best materials you can get
Use pastry flour when It is obtainable.
Ueat eggs thoroughly. Sift all suirar
and flour from three to four times be
fore measuring. Havo a slow oven,
Test a small spoonful of the batter by
making It up before the entire cake is
put in.
Use less rather than moro shortening
than the recipe calls for. Take plenty
of time and have all your materials ready
on the table before starting to make the
cake.
Ttr5tl jflBPs IrS" J i '
ign
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I
The Girl at Central
and she must guard against this by
an ever-present alertness of mind. Tho
public Is, unfortunately, only too ready
and willing to criticises the 'girl at cen
tral and to vent Its spleen and 111 temper
upon her. If the lino Is busy, as fre
quently It must be, the subscriber seems
to suspect the operator of untruthful
ness and keeps Impatiently ringing and
ringing and haranguing the girl In a
truly nerve-racking fashion.
The telephone girl Is sorely tempted
to give the subscriber what is popu-
TO TELEPHONE GIRLS
The telephone girl has a good opportunity for advancement. Whel
i i c tv.. n,himtv nr not dcncnds entirely upon herjclf.
sne manes use ui uw nj -- . . , i i , j
...!. : f..n .,. nnd f she really be doing her best and gmna
her best she will be promoted sooner or later. Quickness is a very eisentiSH
matter, for the numbers must be locaica win '" "- ; " "
telephone girl must have good eyesight, and the thief danger to her hcdi
and position lies in eyestrain. Ureal care snouia do "' ' ixan
in the train or trolley during the homeward journey should be avoided. M
The girl who wishes to succeed in this line of work must keep hertetW
well in hand. She must suppress ner private icciiuB u u.uHa... lo ai
almost heroic degree. It is very hard to give the soft answer that tarnctl
u M..i:.tt tuUn ihft wrath is auite uniustifiablc and superfluoui
n..i .l. ..j.l -U ,!, I,-,. her own interests at heart and who looks well to htfl
own future, will refrain from the obvious retort over the wire when a ru'rl
remark is made to her, as it all too lrcqucniiy is.
That the life of the telephone girl is far from being a bed of roses :
only too true. The nerves and the temper arc continually Dcmg mea. tj
let her console herself with the reflection that these trials are not peculiar
any one business. Moreover, everything has its consolations and its recompert
The pay in telephone work is very good, Hie worn can prove rcany rascina
...: .nf.n.. r nUnrhed lo ii. such as the allotment of a special
for rest both during the morning work hours and again during the afternoonfl
and, finally, the work is always steady and the ennnces oj promouon raceiietg
CL,L.C11 S-Ut-ll.
larly termed "ft bit of her mind," nnd,
really, one can hardly blame her, labor
ing as she does under BUch provocation.
Yet the sensible girl will think twice
before she does nny such thing and will
rcaltzo that discretion Is the better part.
In tho Bell Telephono Company salaries
of operators rnnge from J8 n week, super
visors from $10 nnd 112 nnd chief opera
tors make about 180 a month. Tho
salaries given In the Koystono Telephone
Company follow this scale pretty closely
also. Both companies havo beautiful
rcstroom, and each girl has twd "re
liefs" a day, besides the hour for lunch.
If the operator works from 8 o'clock In
the morning till S o'clock she will havo
one relfet of from 15 minutes to half
an hour In the morning and another In
the afternoon of the same duration.
This plan Is an excellent one, and does
much to relieve the physical fatigue and
nerve strain tho operator must underi?
In her day's work.
One Week's vacation Is given In On
summer time. An extra week may till
taken without salary. AH holidays, suchj
as Christmas Day, Now Years Day
Thanksgiving, etc., are also allowed. J
In tho matter of hours, a telephone girl
works for different "sets." For a tlm'f
sho may work from 7 a. m. till 4 p. ntB
Then cho may be changed to an all-nlghtl
"set." Different girls prefer dlffereajj
scis, me nigniwom uemy very popuun
with some.
It will bo pretty generally found ths)
the averago telephone girl is sweet ten4
percu unu cuey iu hbi munis wim. x-uoiioi
opinion wofuld probably nover concefla
it-,- ...ft -..,. f- u -..-.. rro.. .l-i- -r2S
11118, jVk OUUJI lO W1U UlWi XJIO SiriS &(
central are themselves the best Judges of
each other's dispositions and "get along'a
together in the most friendly way.
o GEmtmmjugijestiom m ' '
fT VaBthWrTrrrffliiihrniTli '
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NOVELTIES in abundance,
at Moderate prices", in
the" Stocks of
' ir ' t
r
A ?.'4
0-
PEARLS
DIAMONDS
-JEWELRY
WATGHES
'CLOCKS
SILVER
CHINA
G L'ASS
LEATHER
POTTERY
BRONZES
LAMPS
ENAMELED
NOVELTIES
CANES
CROPS
UMBRELLAS
OP ER'A
CLASSES
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J'iCALDWELL & CO.
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