5
mn
Seam Acts as Anchor for
j Rest of Garment.
(Prepared by the Bureau of Home Economics,
United States Department of Agriculture.)
Fit the shoulders first of all when
you are making a dress. When the
shoulder seam is properly placed it
acts as an wnchor to the rest of the
garment. As a result the material
should hang smoothly over the chest
and shoulder blades with no wrinkles
or bugles, either in the front or the
back, and there should be no appear
ance of tightness,
The normal shoulder seam starts
at the highest point of the neck line
and extends in a straight line to one.
half inch back of the highest point on
the tip of the shoulder. Try laying
u pencil from the neck following the
correct line to the tip of the shoulder,
This seam line should be visible
from either the front or back when
the garment is worn.
When fitting the shoulders, in at
the peck and work toward mn:
holes, keeping in mind that the length
wise threads of the cloth must
parallel to the center front and back
of the figure and crosswise threads
parallel to the floor. The large figure
necessitates a slight exception to this
general rule, as the crosswise threm]s
over the bust slant slightly downward
Other locations of the
seam are used to give different shoul
der effects. For example, to produce
a square-shouldered or yoke effect the
seam may be placed two or
inches lower in front than the normal
shoulder line. That is, the back
tion of the dress is made to extend
further over the {ront, and the front
section of the pattern correspond
not
beg
the ar
he
shoulder
three
KO
is
Correct Shoulder Line for Dress With
Set.in Sleeves,
ingly shortened. The epaulet shoulder
is a yoke cut as part of a set-in sleeve.
It has two seams parallel to the por
mal shoulder line,
A set-in sleeve meets the shoulder
line at the tip of the shoulder, as
shown in the illustration. In the ki
mono type of sleeve having a shoulder
seam the line of the shoulder is fol
lowed down the arm as It hangs
naturally at the side. This type oi
kimono sleeve usually fits better un
ae
Shoulder Seam for Dress of
Kimono Type.
Correct
der made by
foidin
the arm than the type
vv the goods for the shoulder, In
discussing fitting of dresses und
blouses a specialist of the bureau of
home economics of the United States
Department cof Agriculture sugzg
that if the pattern has. not allowed for
such a seam you can make a fold
the
in
|
the pattern « or rin the material “directly
on top of the shoulder, following its
slope, and sew on this line, This
seam will help to adjust the costume
to the figure, ‘When this alteration is
made the underarm seam is let out
the same width as was taken off tha
shoulder, or a gusset Is set in to make
the armhole the correct size.
For a round-shouldered person the
shoulder seam line should be placed
slightly back of its normal position,
in both the set-in and kimono-type of
sleeve, This will give a more erect
appearance to the figure, PRincing it
on top or to the front will emphasize
round shoulders. On the very erect
type, this seam is more becoming di-
rectly on top of the shoulder. The
shouider of a garment should be
wide enough that the set-in sleeve will
not be brought up on the .shoulder,
which gives a pinched effect, yet the
shoulder of the garment should be
narrow enough to prevent the sleeve
from falling below the shoulder tip
nnd so give n drooped appearance,
The cholce of get.ln or kimono type
of depends, in part, on what
points ought to he emphasized In the
wearer's build, Extending the
der line, as in the kimono type. of
sleeve, broadens the apparent width
of shoulder, it a more slender
appearance is desired, the set-in
sleeve, correctly placed, Is better.
Hold the of the waist
vou when the shoulder
The back shoulder edge should
nbout oue-half inch longer than
front edge By en in this extra
fullness the entire length of the seam
the shouider are fitted
fectly. In woolen materials It
shrink out this fallr
have heen
is stitched
sleeve
shoul
the £0
toward
Ke
hack
hasting nin
be
the
sing
blades more
is
after
and
1088
fitted
ders
* Ream
1
{Prepared by the Bureau of Home Eco
tvited States Department of Ag
No one can get ground the
five
fact that
toes need a certain space of a cer
tain general shape if they are to
spread out paturaly and comfortably,
When jammed into shoes with pointed
feet are sure to
and finally de
und piled
are bent
the
ted,
needielike
cramped, (wis
formed. are buckled
on another and
Other foot troubles devel
picture of a wou
pointed toe. The
{OPK
he
Toes
ane bones
op. Tuke this
mn’s shoes with a
shoe violates one of
Milk
food and
such a commonly
drink upon
we give it little thought
except to kpow that it
is properly produced and
free from injurious bac
terin
There are many people
who cannot drink
milk, and in consequence
will not touch it in any
other way.
Hot milk is a rellef
positive cure for any number of ilis
Sleeplessness, a most annoying afilic
tion, has been cured by a glass of hot
milk sipped at night before going fo
bed. It is soothing, warming and will,
if one relaxes and throws away all
fretting care, bring sleep quickly. Re
peat some favorite verse or count
slowly for a few minutes to get the
mind off worrying thoughts,
is Recepted
our tables
cold
as well as a
For extreme nausea this is consid
ered a remarkable cure. Patients suf
fering to the point of starvation have
been entirely cured In a few days
and are able to eat other foods. This
is a recipe which should be kept and
cherished In every household. It is
not only agreeable to the palate, re
freshingly cool when chilled in hot
wenther, but a food and lifesaver as
well
Many physicians prescribe butter
milk for medicinal purposes. It is be
lieved to be a remedy for various kid
ney troubles
Meat for salting should never be
prepared until the animal heat is out
The meat sheuld be cool, but not
frozen. A barrel which Is tight and
is the best of receptacles for
NELLIE
quantities of meat ;
a large firk
localities
By MAXWELL
for smal!
in or stone
amounts
use jar.
In snow and
tinued dry cold weather are prevalent,
meat may he
frozen and Kept
all winter. This
is true fish
well,
Take a
clean box,
the bottom with
clean snow and
when the eat 1s frozen solid pack It
into the snow, 80 that po two pleces
touch, Cover with snow and continue
to pack until all the meat Is placed
Put the box where sudden changes of
temperature will pot affect it. When
where con
of ne
large
cover
By MARY GRAHAM BONNER
“Chere are people who brag about
their family trees,” sald the Wild Cat,
and 1 don't understand how a family
of people have a family of trees”
“Oh.” sald the Wild Cat's neighbor,
“they don't mehn they have a tree
made of the family.
“What they mean Is that they all
belong to grandmothers and grand.
fathers of great importance and who
are very high-up people.”
“lI suppose they're called family
trees because they're high ap,” sald
the Wild Cat, “though lots of trees
FORETASTE of that which Is to
be outstanding in the foreground
of the spring and summer picture—
enchanting gowns all of lace or lace
trimmed and welcomed by fashion
ables as the very thing for wear dur-
Ing the immediate social hours of
bridge and afternoon tea.
According to these advance modes,
the lace enthusiast is to have her
“fing” at lace of every description
during the coming months. To be
sure, our stylists have been for some
time past hinting of the coming su-
premacy of lace in the mode. Day by
day afternoon JSrocks of velvet and
cloth, silk and satin, have been tak-
ing on more of a lace-garnitured ap
pearance, especially in the form of
handsome lace collar and cuff sets.
By the way, these lace accessories
are to be more than ever highlighted
by the mode. There is nothing so
enhances a simple frock or blouse ax
fine luce at neckline and waistline,
The newer lace sets are very elab
orate and are styled most Interesting:
ly in points and squares (back and
front) to be worn over the dress, the
cuffs assuming fantastic shapes either
shallow or of exaggerated depth,
It is, however, the costume which
includes lace In its actual construc
tion which is being presented in many
new phases, Seeing that style-mes
sages often have a way of traveling
via Hollywood, one readily apprecl
ates the “rearon why” one of its fair.
est residents, Marion Nixon, chooses
for “dress-up” afternoon wear the
gown in which she posed so charm:
ingly for this plcture. In the lace
treatment here shown “coming events
cast their shadows before."
Beguiling dine and dance frocks
i
By JULIA BOTTOMLEY
which are proving of irresistible lure
to the debutante for immediate wear,
are fashioned of delicate all-over lace
in a “delicious” pink tint. These are
intricately draped, but seldom other
wise trimmed.
Those who are costuming che fash.
remember to
sizes
packing the meat
the pleces in such
convenient to use,
thawed
frozen in,
In some
made ina
and packe
have
as will be
as such ment when
ghould be used,
once uot
places where
bunda
is
it is partly cooked
1 in jars, then covered with
hot lard, This will keep into warm
weather, making a very fent
dish of meat to serve in a hurry. The
sausage Is into small cakes and
well over with heat. Pork
chops packed in this man
ner.
It is best to avold the patent prepa
rations which are on the market for
curing meat. Sait, sugar, molasses
are safe and wholesome, Salipeter is
gOusage
nee,
conven
wade
seared
are good
Too High and Badly Placed.
the points especially stressed bs those
studied the fitting of shoes,
is that the inner line of the
be straight.
comfortable,
attractive, shoes
wear must conform to
shape of feet and
They must also provide
tion for the body. Shoes of
broad and round at the
along the inner edge. A
normal feet placed
the heel and also from
of the blg Jol the
the ends of toes, The
a pair of properly
The more these
toward the out
unnatural
greater the
who have
and that
shoe should
To
and
safe, durable
for everyday
the nat
protect
a firm founda-
Des
ural
the them,
correct
shape are toe
and straight
pair of
touch at
Just
in back nts of big
toes to these
inner edges of made
shoes do likewise,
edees diverge
side of the more
the nd the
wearer's discomfort, If such shoes are
worn enlarged joints and
bunfons are bound to result.
Compnre the X-ray of the foot in
badly shaped shoes with the position
of the bones In the correctly shaped
man's designed for
There for
which shoe is more desirable
or curve
shoe the
shoe's shape ar
tv
persistently
shoes army use
is no room choice as to
used te give the t color ana is
ative: It Is red
though it is used almost uni
in small quantities
For a tired and hungry shopper
comes home too early for a meal a
glass of hot milk not only nourishes
but relieves the tired nerves. A pi
of malt, a of flavoring may
to make it more palatable.
102%, Western Newapsaper Union)
brigh
also no
harmful,
versally
Dresery cnneldi
who
nch
drop be
added
i
———— -
aren't very high, come to think of i.”
“No.” sald the neighbor, “that has
nothing to do with It
“A family tree all depends on
whether a creature has grandmothers
and grandfathers and great-grand
mothers and great-grandfathers. Don't
you see?”
“But then every one would have a
family tree,” said the Wild Cat, “add
I didn’t think every one had”
“My dear Wild Cat,” said the neigh.
bor, “there are grandmothers
grandmothers.”
“1 suppose 80,” agreed the Wild Cat
“But 1 mean,” explained the neigh
bor, “that some grandmothers are high
up and some aren't.”
“Some are snobs and others aren't,
eh? asked the Wild Cat.
“Yes, that's about it,” said his neigh
bor,
“So that Is what they mean by a
family tree? sald the Wild Cat.
“Yes, that's about It,” sald his neigh.
bor,
“It's all very well to have one. but
unless a creature amounts to some
thing himself 1 don’t see how he can
think he is fine simply because his
grandfather was.”
Just then another neighbor of the
Wild Cat's looked about him
“1 wish to boast” he said. "To hear
my name, my fine and dignified name,
my name which means nothing and
yet which means everything, one
would never believe | was a cat, eh?”
asked the Serval.
“Why does your name mean every-
thing and nothing?" asked the Wild
Cat, i
“That sounds rather queer to me,
In fact It sounds quite impossible.”
and
ure giving an intriguing Interpretu
tion to the luce mode in that they are
designing adorable ensembles of all
over lace und chiffon. These display
a sk'rt with jacket of the lace.
(©, 1928, Western Newspaper Union.)
TRY FRESH BEEF TONGUE
FOR A GOOD DINNER DISH
It Is not necessary to have all
tongue cured before cooking it. Fresh
beef tongue makes a delicious dish
and Is so unusual that one might
imagine a new meat had been discov’
ered. Here are directions for prepar
ing It, furnished by the bureau of
home economics:
1 beef tongue
f quarts waler
8 sprigs parsley corne
% teaspoon salt 2? bay leaves
Wash the tongue well and do not
trim It. Place it In water to cover,
add the seasonings and simmer for
two and one-half to three hours or
until the meat is tender. Skin the
tongue. Blice it and serve hot, or
allow It to cool in the liquor after
skinning, and serve it cold Make a
stew from the meat at the base of the
tongue, the lguor and added vege
tables. Or cook spinach or kale In
the liquor and serve with the nea
which Is not In shape for slicing.
1 onion, large
1 teaspoon pepper
—————————————————
“Ah, but it isn't,” sald the Serval
“Then pray explain it to me,” sald
the Wild Cat.
“The name of Serval sounds
dignified.” sald the Serval
“Well, 1 suppose so if you want to
think it sald the Wild Cat
“And it means nothing in
very
does.”
one way
WOMEN OF
MIDDLE AGE
Praise Lydia E. Pinkham’s
Mrs. Annie Kwinskl of 526 1st Ave.
nue, Milwaukee, Wis., writes that she
| became 80 weak and
rundown that she
was not able to do
her housework. She
saw the name Lydia
E. Pinkham's Vege.
table Compound in
the paper and said
to her husband, “I
will try that medl-
cine and see if it
will help me.” She
says she took six
bottles and is feel.
ing much better,
Mrs. Mattie Adams, who lives In
Downing Street, Brewton, Ala, writes
as follows: “A friend recommended
Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Com-
pound and since taking it I feel like
a different woman.”
With her children grown up, the mid-
dle-aged woman finds time to do the
things she never had time to do before
~—read the new books, the new
plays, enjoy her grandchildren, tale
an active part in church and eivic
affairs. Far from being pushed aside
by the younger set, she finds a full
rich life of her own, That is, if her
bea ith | is good.
Thousands of women past fifty, say
they owe their vigor and health to
Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Com-
pound, and are recommending it to
their friends and neighbors.
B00
WANTED— Jara fon |
are lovers of eolor 16 |
isend for FREER é¢-onlor publication entitied |
COLOR NEWER." BU0in Prise Contest for!
i those who are willing 10 nee a Little energy ve :
{ this connection No selling. just recommend -
| ing. 1f you feel you can recomend KU NeRT |
DYBS and DYTINT, the new 10¢ Tint, write
{and we will enter you In this Contest. Address |
{ Dept. BK, Nonh American Dye Corporation,
i M1 Vernon, KN,
WOMEN GETTING BALD
The next five years will show women
with Bald Heads, or going In that
Men attribute it to Heredity.
What will the women say Is the cause
Thousands of young men bald,
or going that way, who had no need
for getting bald or even scarce of
hair. You surely can give one or two
minutes each day to take care of your
hair. This is all the time required.
owe to Nature, as it was
glven to us in the beginning by Nature,
your Bald Head, Grow
| pew hair, destroy dandruff by improv-
ing the condition of the scalp which
feeds the hair. Then you have the
problem solved,
Forst's Original BARE-TO-HAIR is
not a tonic, but Is a scalp fertilizer
! and germicide. The resuits from its
| use has really created its own demand
{ over the entire country. Literature
| and information sent upon request.
W. H, FORST
Discoverer and Manufacturer
Scottdale, Penna,
NOTICE!
To Livestock Owners
i You Own Any Horses, Cattle, Poultry
or Hogs, by All Means Read This.
Safeguard your stock against the
costly ravages of quick-spreading dis-
ease. Nature has provi ided wonderful
health-giving roots and herbs which
have proved unfailing in thousands of
i cases. These are combined in a time-
| tried, reliable remedy, Porter's Pain
King--the standby of hundreds of
farmers in this community. They rec-
ommend it highly for sores, colds and
distemper In horses and for soreness of
the udder, caked teats, and bloat in cows
i Every day chickens are becoming
| better money-earners, and there is an
increasing use of Porter's Pain King by
{ sareful pouitry raisers everywhere. It
| is & positive relief for gapes, roup and
| parasitic growths. Sick hens are no!
| good layers
| Use Porter's Pain King at the silght-
{| est sign of trouble, Just follow the
| directions with each bottle. It may
| save you several hundred dollars. Your
| dealer guarantees satisfaction or money
| back. Made and guaranteed by The Geo
H. Rundle Co., Pigua, Ohio, since 1871
direction.
this
“Pray Explain It to Me™
because it doesn’t tell any secrets. Jt
doesn’t tell folks that I'm everything!”
“Well, well, well,” sald the Wild
Cat, “that is bragging a little bit too
much.”
“Not at all,” said the Serval,
from Africa.
the zoo.
“It's interestiing to think that
home is so far off.”
“Well, it depends on what one thinks
{s interesting,” sald the Wild Cat
“Of course,” continued the Serval,
“and.l think that that is interesting
“When one thinks of the Serval, one
“1 am
That Is a long way from
my
a rare eat, a cat with thin and hand-
some long legs, a tiny head, a deli-
cately shaped body and beautiful round
spots.”
“That's all very true,” sald the Wild
Cat, “but of course if no one were to
think of Serval, one wouldn't think of
all those things™
“Ah” sald the Serval, “very true, hut
| feel there are enough sensible people
in the world who de sometimes think
of the rure Serval family or spotted
cate”
(@® 1528. Western Newspaper Union)
Cleaning Your Rooms
Cleaning a room according to a
definite plan will save labor because
the different steps In the process will
not need to be repented. When rooms
near together are to be cleaned on the
same day, IL Is often easiest to get all
of them 1 , then clean them all,
and finally put them all In order.
Sweeping and dusting should he
made ue dustiess na possible, for the
object Is to remove dust, no! to seat:
ter it, the United Statex Departmen
of Agriculture poluts oul.
Enjoyment
“Have a good time in New York?”
“I should say =o,” answered Farm-
| er Corntossel, “I pald $14 for a seat
| to a show.”
“Did you enjoy the show?”
“No. But I enjoyed the idea of be-
ing able to squander £14."
Prospect-—But why should 1 join
your golf club? 1 never have played
golf.
Salesman-—But our club is the only
sme that has adding machines for be
ginners.,
—————————
Let It!
Jim—You shouldn't use rouge.
njures the skin,
Mae-—-Well, who ever sees that?
Why He Succeeded
Honored politi 3
ally, during his k RY.
dg whose
It
ere, a
success hex have