The Centre reporter. (Centre Hall, Pa.) 1871-1940, December 17, 1891, Image 2

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    rn
OUR PARIS LETTER.
Surely, one cwnnol comnlain of a
fear h of novelties, for never, appar-
ently, has a scason ever broneht us
more extravagant creations F rst on
the ligt is the Jacobine redingote, the
shape of which is extremely elegant
and original. It is not made according
to the models with which we are so
familiar, for cr rtain peculiurities change
it at once nto a garment of an entirely
new style. First, it is longer, less of a
redingote and more of a jacket. The
fronts are crossed and closed on the
{eft side by three large buttons. The
polor of the cloth ned for this garment
is called “chataigne,” a red lish brown
which is in great demand this Winter.
Two large revers cover the chest and
fold back over a pelerine which is
pleated at the neck, thus forming the
soll r.
This pelerine is cut quite straight,
hke a | and, and of ample width; the
width is then rednced by laying small
perpendicular pleats and stitching them
to a depth nec. ssary for the heighth of
the collar, This gurment has met with
great snccess for mcrning outings,
prcmenades, ete.
1f a more dressy garment is desired,
one has only to choose another color
and a different fabio,
A model quite new, and which bears
tho mark of one of onr prominent mod-
istos, 18 a pretty jacket in cloth of a less
. prononnocd reddish cast yet of the
same tone. It completed a full cos-
tame, The straight fronts, c¢ osed at
neck snd waist hoe, were open over |
the ¢! est on a pla tron or a long jabot |
of silk muslin or of guipure. The
fronts were ont straight-way of the
eloth, but thie back entirely on the bias
for: ing n Wattean pleat with the seam
mn the cenire, and no more fulness in
the basque than there 's in the back of
an ordivary jacket. Ove point of im-
riance is that the fold touches the
Po without being fastened there: a
loose stitch nnder the geam attho waist
line holds the fold to the jacket, A
band of brown velvet ribbon passes
beneath the fold, is ¢ ossed in front,
and returns forming a reversed V, toe
oint of which 1s concealed under the
old near the linr. The edge of the
jack:t and the botton dress
of the
skirt are trimmed with a thiek band of
silk nud wool marabout, whieh is fre-
gqnently employed this season as a gar-
niture. This jackot has ul-o proved to
be r creas fav 1 ;
Elouse corsages are
ly woru ne they add
vuriely of one’s costumes,
ono is m eray ¢ rded velvet with
a bi] of bine rl n fastened with an
antique silver bn Tue be utiinl
bitios which udorn {hese corsages adds
to them a jceunliar clegance. i hese |
buitons are veritable jewels, sometimes
in gold pnd sometimes fancy de-
£
o
being universal-
greatly to tre
A charwoing
nde of
rib
in
signs. Wo have secn one of the blon-e
eorsages in locust-green velvet with |
flat gold buttons similar to a gentle-
man’s shirt studs.
A black velvet
buttons in perforated
blonse for t
corsn.e of white sil
tion of Chantilly, with m
mond bunitons: these buttons
also ns orn s on the sleeves,
As 1s well known all bats, or nearly i
all, have strings that are wide or nar-|
row, and more or less long. A lesd- |
irg honse has ecreed that ¢
strings «hall | inrrow, fastened |
by » Little t ear aad |
ently to tl
‘male of |
one had Bavarian |
silver. Tue same |
r, had an ionper |
muslin and inser
guificent dia- |
appear
heatre wera
+ :
meus
Just « SRO
is I
r eo aft
Own ma
bird m
of rarrow
knoited npder
long enda reaching
Ine. The fashion will nndonbtedly |
soon | e adopted as the long flowing
endr tend to give the fair wearer an
added grace,
the
Frrion Luar,
Carvior Gowx axp Vieoaxz Tairon
Oows.—No. 1321, is of gray cheviot
rimmed with black velvet, and a full
vest of figured silk between the open
jacket fronts. The skirt, made with.
ont a foundation skirt, is lined throrgh
with alpaca and trimmed at the bottom
itat wo bias folds of cloch foar inone
a aa
No. 1822, pack view,
deep, piped with velvet at the lower
ednes and headed by a velvet fold.
‘or the full vest a straight breadth
of silk is veed, gathered at the neck
end waist and sowed on the right haif
of the wrist in ng: tue lower c¢dge is
gathered and turned under, aud sewed
to the edge of the hung. It is hooked
to the leit half of the l.ning, as 18 ahvo
the velvet belt, which 18 sewed tO tue
lining on the right side.
The straieht collar and the coat
revers are of black velvet. The frouts
of the jacket aud the rleeves are irim-
med with loops of bruid in which there
18 a thread of steel, with steel buttons
at either end.
BO
Dare
No. 1
No.
No. 182%, show+ how to dress a!
Roman Conta lina. The skirt is of
black merino and the corselet of voi. |
vet. Whuite linen chemise te embroid- |
ered in multi-colored designs like tue
apron,
Muslin headdress, wit
pins. Coral beads around the neck,
No 1324, representa a
child, The vest inllae clothi
with gold 1n keeping
~Niirt
h lace pnd gold
nd
Tuamsian
wrougnt
with t!
vy . sai lt #
nubs veiling :
€
Ll
br
#R
eid
No. 132°. Beige -colored vigogme
with a white eloth vet is the material |
of the tailor gown, The skirt 1s wade |
without a foun lation and lined through |
with alpaca and trimmed » long the side
seams with rows large braad bat-
Of
The coat ho "ice has a high officer's
in addition to a deep 1urned-
down collar and revers. The white
across with re-
vers, and opens on a white linen chemi |
No 25.
No. 1825. Prax Woon CosroMm,—
Our model is of veige and blue pail
wool ocross-barred with red and brown
pilk lines. T:e bodice is mainly of
velvet with a pointed plastron of plaid
goods in the back, and a plaid coat
skirt ret under velvet tabs,
C h'ne, across which the velvet is sirap-
pe! with gilt buckles. The sleeves are
i
i
trimmed with velvet bands and a
hy gilt
buckle on the sides
No, 1395, BACK VIEW,
No. 1326, Turarne Bovion, Crean
white surah lk, black velvet and lace
are combine! in milking shia simple
“a
3.6
lar are of vo lvet v iled with white luce,
belt ard bows of bliek velvet ribbon.
P'unfls of lace cross the shonlders snd
Jace Inlis finch t! lower §
the sleeves, A frill doub ed surah
in set along the edpe of the right front,
and ness of both frovis
lneo peur
wast Lue,
© edgy 0
of
PA
in
the edpe n
a
FANCY WORK.
In loo¥ing throu: hi some of the fanny
stores the other day, I raw a very
pretty work pocket which is ewily
made, snd would | e useful as a Christ.
mas gift, The pocket hongs in a tiny
cabinet frome a ont eigh een inches
tall snd eigut inch: s square at top sud
Lo tem Lins trume enn be bought at
any 1aney store in the plain woo i, ur a
carp: nter could camly make one sta
trifiing cost. Witn a litt e epam-l yon
can puint it any col r yon may desire,
Some of those 1 saw were pale pivk
while others were a faint peacock
bine,
The bag should be of some pretty
flowered silk, and lined with a silk of
plain but barmomz ng eolor. If the
frame is pink, a yllow flowered silk.
lined with pale blue wonld fe pra ,
Shirrthetop of the bag an inch below the
edge, and fasten it to the forr top bars
of the frame, letting it hane full below,
Bows of ribbon may be tacked to the
four eorners both above snd be'ow,
By nsing plainer ma erial this bag |
conld be need iu the dres<ing room to |
hold small soiled ariicles as laces, Lhund- |
kerehiefs, ete,
A econvepient little pin-cushion to
hang by a sewing muchive cin be made
of strips ofeilk brail of differenteniors,
For this seven strips of braid cach six
fuches long are required; harmonizing
colors sh uid be selected and the ed es
and over, begin-
aud a balf from t
11s
Thee ends
a |
me istunes
ust
®
be raveled for fringe.
Work a fancy stitch down each seam
with embroidery milk of some pretty
i ends just above the fringe and sinfl it |
| with hair or wool. Draw up the ends |
{ and fasten them, tacking on bows of |
{ laby ribbon with long loops by wich
{ the enshion is to Le snspende
| A bread doiley is very ornaments] to
{ the tea~table and suitable fur a bride,
| Take a preee of fine linen about ten
inches square and bemstitch an inen
| wide bem all around, Work a small
design, as w' eat-heads cr ¢ flowers
| in out-line stitch, in one ¢
cinsters here and there,
Fivger do less
be made in
ry
41
ra
racer
ARS - oii
aspen
No, 1333,
No. 1833. For-Laweo Russian CLoaAx.
«This cloak is of dark blue camel's
hair, lined with fur and tnmmed with
a Russian collar and deep cuffs of
Alaska sable. Passementerie clasps
fasten the fronts below the waist line.
Muff of sable.
No. 1882, Croax ro & A Youso Lavy
~The cloth for this garment is gray
woven with a stripe of a darker shode
forming deep points in the contre, It
is cut in redingote shape, the back
and side backs furn shing ample
fulness for the skirt. The fronts cross
sand button on the right side; the
deap cape opens in the haok and front,
with flounces of plain ol th pleat < on
the 8 oulders and falliug in folds upon
the edge of the opening. Three rows
of stitching orpameut the founcea
The high collar 1s brrdered with black
feathers, and a similar band trims the
the enpe and the boitom of the
Close sleeves.
edge of
garment,
.
works d
wool, (Uo
re
pert
a looy
oo
row, ur
©
"ob Of
2d
loop through the
t«ke 8 Joop each 1 the la
tm shes of the next stitches in the |
fast row, juil a loop through the 4 |
loops now ont e ne dle, 1 chain; re- |
pest from *, but tuke the first loop |
throngh the front mesh of the lest of
the loops taken up for the preceding !
stitch. i
8d row.--1 ebain to turn, then a sin-
gle crochet into the front meeh of |
every stitch. Continue to repeat the |
2d and 8d rows by turn, widening or
parrowing as the pattern requires; to
give the extra needful width toward
the b« ttom. work a short row up to the |
waist and down again, thus forming » |
small gore. !
Overseam the shonlde got her,
Work the sleeves in the o stitch,
join them and overseam them into the
armhole. Before sewing in the sleeves |
| work the cuff. For this make a cnain
i of 6 stitches and work in tricot stitch
| (take up a loop through each stitch go-
jog forward and work them off coming
back), 14 rows; at the end of each row
connoct to a stitch of the sleeve, and
in the middle rows connect to 2stilches
Ld
og Ler
pe
oe
pe
#'% 0 - a
I
ra
smd
to full the sleeve; connect the last row
with the first and then finish the front
edge with a row as follows: a single on
the first, ¥ 3 chain, take a loop each
theaugh the 21 and 1st of the 2 chain,
a loon th ongh perpenlicnlar mesh be-
fore the 3 chsin, and 2 loops through
the next 2 edge stitches, pil a loop
throungn all the loops, work off this
lust loop: repent from *. Work a like
row of points downward into the front
meshes of the neck stitches, then from
the back a row of singles on the unoo-
enpied meshes of the same stitches,
On the singles work to and fro 3 rows,
in the first of whieh make’ chain and a
single on the next 2d stitch: in the 24
row 2 single around every b chain, then
a row of points like those previously
deseribed, continuing them down the
back edges. A ribbon isdrawn through
the 1:.t of there rows aud tied at the
back. Join the lower half of the back.
Around the lower edge of the waist
work first a row of singles, then, for an
open row through which a ribbon is
drawn, work a chain and a ving e. The
skirt is worked on the waist, the last
1a pow 0 chinin, fake a lop each
through the 2d and Ist of them, and 2
loops throngh the pext two neles of
the row before last, pull sloop through
ail these loo g, ul a loopthroagh this
last loop, *, ta a loop through the
mosh at the top of the group worked
I previongly, take a loop turonch the
; | . of the 4 loops
Pp
i which
taken, a
sliteh, p ila
loop through
%.1n the lash
ie
1
Ee
jast, eo
tale anne
throu
Ops Wel
next
pail
tls last loop; repeat from
ther lox
fit
i
in
Xo. 4
the { and 4th loops
neh the last 2 of the o chiain at the
ENTEROIDERED EPREAD,
0
of the
Yr Youu
{, aloog
Povo
y through
wecceding stiteh,
loops, work off
at from* Work 4
preceding row. In
last row work the
“8
a all
§ BK. 100 rom
wre rows ble
{ion with
the
CORLL 40
”
“5
a
Pn 4
ry npOIDERED sPRTAD, No. L
border crosswise in tricot stitch on &
foundation of 6 chain ss for the cuff
Below this work 2 more rows as in the
ing ns at the sieeves. On the border 4
rows of cross-stitches in contrasting
silk are worked as shown in the ilins-
tration,
Expnomxrep Spagap.—On a square
canvas of the desired size, mark out
thirty-six smaller squarcs as shown in
firure 1. These squares are embroid.
ored cotton according to the working
details given in figures 1 and 2.
The twelve to sixteen threads which
have bocn left between the smal
squares are made inio drawn work
| borders, and te edge of the cover fine
ished with a Torchon lace border. The
| spraat should be lined with sume protiy
harmonizi. g silk.
fF
5