The Centre reporter. (Centre Hall, Pa.) 1871-1940, December 10, 1891, Image 2

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    OURRENT FASHIONS.
With the present style of fashions
the question “how to dress our chil-
dren” becomes ome requiring much
thought and care, for it is not well (Lat
they should be either over-dressed or,
on the other band, so plainly dressed
a8 to make them appear awkward und
out of place. Fortunately the wost of
ohildren’s dressmukers adhere strictly
to extreme simplicity in makiog their
garments,
After the little baby dresses are dis-
earded, the Gretchen costume is usu-
ally worn as it 18 becoming to most
children and simple to make. The
waist is plain, although many sharr it
around the peck laying the fulness in
tiny pleats at the waist-line that are
feather stitched; the skirt is gathered
and hemmed, and the full sleeve fin-
ished with deep cuffs ornamented with
feather -stitohing.
Tan, brown, pearl, gre n and light
ayish blue vie with clear and navy
lue shades, and red for girls of all
ages. For those under five years white
guimpes with long sleeves and low-
necked shirred baby waists are univer-
sally worn.
Woolen dresses for this age have
gathered skirte, high tucked bodices,
ge sleeves and a velvet plastron.
For older girls the skirt is either
gathered, orhas the front and sid.s
lain and the back fan, gathered or |
x-pleated. The foot of the skirt is’
bemmwed or trimmed wih a tand of |
velvet. T'he collars are high, also the |
sleeves, and the waist is usually open |
in the tack with a short, round or
pointed yoke, flat or full plastrons, |
breteile, rever and suspender trim- |
mings. A pretty model for a girl trom
four to ei ht years old is the suspender
waist, It is very simple, styiisb and |
bicomiog. The bodice is plain |
straight ronnt the lower edge wuere |
the skirt is gathered. Ou each side of |
the buck, fas ended at the arm size, ae |
parrow sus; en ‘ers of the dress ma- |
terial edg d with fauey cord, crossing |
thie buek., pa sing over the shonlders
and joiving the f ont of the bo ie by
gilt imekles. ‘Ihe bo ee 1s closed nu-
der the arm with small gilt be’ ous,
The grimpe shoud ie of the darkest
gliniie of the dress g olds, in India sik,
the sleeves ull nod gatbered into a
enff, with the roli ng co lar, is eged
wit the faney cord. For general wear,
rough goods «re now preferr.d 10 five
smooth cashmere,
SBersio uh e schoo dres es are
of t e large rough ei
the shirt cut Hias with bro
governs rows of shiliriae, Ww Lh 4 Darrow |
bendi ig, to form t e belt, Tue nil
waist s ont Liss aud slitrred to a Joke
wade of one of the ploiu colors in the
plaid. Fuil high sleeves shirred to the
yoke at the shoul ter, with deep ouffs
of the plain material. If a more dressy
gown 1s desired velvet should replace
the plsin yoke and cuffs
Fur is now looked upon as simply
a becoming rimming effect, 80 wuether
the season prove cold or not it will
grobubly be seen om young girls
esses us well as on those of tuer eld-
ers, Casslmere, Bedford cording and
ladies’ cloth are reserved for best wear,
with plastrons of ilk and trimmings of
velvet and silk gimp.
Children's cloaks, whether long or
short are heavily trimmed with far, A
quaint little cloak for a ehild from two
to ten years old consists of a full front
and back shirred to yokes; the sleeves
are full at the top and coat-shaped be-
low the elbow; edgings of white fur.
High sleeves aud | rge box-plaits
fom the neck in one pece, or f
square waist and plaite i, are also
ghown for smal rials |
u ed coosist of Freuel i
striped Hanuel, pl
effects
Clildren’s f
are made
Isnx, white
ehilla,
Cloth leggins and kid gloves of two-
button length are found for girls of
our years and over,
For young misses come three-quarter
length coats in tweed ana flecked cloths,
with fur collars and cuffs, or long
econts and light cloth, flecked with
black camel's hair Sgures and trimmed ¢
with black far, especially black mouf-
flou which is the Chinese lamb dyed
black.
Children's hats are larger than last
season and are chiefly trimmed with
five inch wide ribbon, also with pom-
ns made of the ribbon. For the
ittle “tots” the “Granny” bonnets are {
made in cream plush, with soft silk i
ruches, or French caps made with milk
crowns and velvet sides. These are
very becoming with lambswool coats
trimmed with Angora fringes.
Children’s fur caps are again fashion-
able and come in white shiny plunzeon
far, changing hare and there into light
gilvery gray; on the side 1s placed the
long beaked head of this bird. Misses
hats coe in smooth and fur felts in al-
most all colors, navy and light blue,
gray, cream and red bed being the
most prominent. 1hey are trimmed
with Prince of Wales ostrich feathers,
and tips mingled with long loo of
satin ribbon, Sometimes ribbon forms
the only trimming. ‘The brims of these
hats turn np in the back, and tue
front is either straight or ourved ap-
wards. The farry felts droop of their
own weight thus framing the face be-
neath. Soft velvet crowns are often
seen with smooth felt brims.
The merit of little boys’ garments
depends largely on the fit and finish,
as they do not allow of the change that
girls do. Suitability of material, har-
mony of color and good workmanship
should characterize all their garments.
At two years of age the boys dress is
such that it plainly marks him as a»
, and no Ste ould ever juistake
him for a girl. Guimpes are aban-
doned, ithe pleated, waists made
with box-pleats, rolled collars and
shirt sleoves.
From three to five, plaid kilts are
worn with a blue, or other light ool
ored jacket, with collar and ouffs of
Irish point and a loose blouse of China
silk or nainsook. Knee trousers, too
short to be Seen are worn with these
kilts for comfo
Bine flannel reefers trimmed with
suchors on the collar are also worn
with three kilts
sl
ma le
plas &, |
hem, and
COKE Of
He
Eat
The mat
ei's hair ;
r mut
1 : :
moeniiions, hrimmer, |
Llama and
irom
lamb chia-
No. 1307. rronrt view,
straw caps, turbans, sailor hats, eto,
are worn by boys up to seven years of
age, then they are replaced by the soft
polo and derby sh pes.
From seven to twelve, knee trousers
and round jackets are the usual dress,
the outside wrap being the long Ras-
sian ooat fastened on ume side, or
the ulster with cape, but this garment
is more generally worn by larger
boys.
The d:fliculty, says *“The Queen,”
finding new styles of dress for boys
age of tuelve to fifteen is
by adopting the new
Austrian dress this may te obviated,
Sometuing differevt from the ordinary
s:hool boys dress seems desirable, and
this An-trisn costume made
of
from the
I'he
fit
admirably sniteld for the purpose.
cont 1s made like a short and ¢] sa
binding witha gr 1
with » narrow strip of similar lea her
made of
snit, ant
bend of 1 ather; the
match the leather
trimmings. This costume cumes from
Vi npa, where t is a favorite dress
stiff prak-cap
veiveteen to match the
trimmed with
rapidly ining sdopted mm Germany.
Should 1t be introduced in our conniry
we think 1t would meet with great
avor, for itis neat ye! inexpensive,
Of course green or any other color may
be nsed which would harmonize well
with the Russian or tan lacings. When
nece sary $0 wear an outer garment the
tunic should be made just shortenongh
to be concealed beneath.
The high boots should reach up to
the knees and are shaped either like
Wellingtons or Napoleons, The
trousers must bo made to fit closely,
No, 1309. BACK View.
of all sorts of aloth,
yet a'lowing freedom of movement; if
not rather tight they would become the
ordinary knickerbockers which would
quite alter the character.
Another new Austrian semi-faney
dress for boys is a plain suit of black
velveteen, similar to that already de-
scribed, with a cap to match and long
putent leather bLocts, This might be
used as an elegant promenade smt for
8 gnrden party or a bazaar, but is
bardly suitable for every day rough
wear,
Rora Corner.
No, 131u
Crminoren's Wixrer Croaxs.—No,
1307. The model at the left 1s a cioak
for a girl twelve to fourteen years old,
made of dark blue cloth braided with
black, and with, an Astrakhan lining in
the high collar. The back of the jack-
et, top of the sleeves and pocket sills
are ornameuted with the | rad, which
is a tubular braid allont a third of an
inch in width. The goat fastens on the
left aide and bas the front oruamented
with two rows of buttons,
No. 1038 The second model is for
a girl sixteen years old. This jacket is
of dark blue amconal, wale with a
double breasted front, a revers ¢ lar
smoked perl but.
tons. ‘lhe collar, ents and pocket laps
No. 1309. ‘lhe coat at
for a girl about ten years old and is
made of beige-colored cluth lined with
No 1318,
quilted red satin, snd trimmed with a
revers collar of black Astrakban, The
revers collar of far is placed over a
revers collar of cloth. The euffs of the
sleeves are ornamented with several
rows of stitching and large buttons are
set on both fronts, Paper patterns of
No. 181L
to the fashion editor.
No. 1810, Croax ror A Gur Twerve
Years Ovnp.—This plain bat neat cloak
for scho 1 wear is made of dark green
cloth t-immed with embroidery. The
with the back furnishi gz ample fulness
for the skirt. The straight fronts are
crossed fiom left to right and held by
on under strap.
An embroidered outsi’e bell confines
the garm nt st the waist. The high
shonldered pelerive opens in front, is
| plain 1a the back rod ornamented with
| & pointed hood embroider ed on the 1n-
| ner part of the top. Roliug collar
embroidered and ecged wit un Darrow
pulling of tue wloth, Close sleeves
i
:
i
S12
Dnugss ron A
dress 1« made
Posciax
] his i tiie
ota trimm
gliver
The full skirt is joined to the bottom
uving a plain back and
with a band of the
on the left
side, #+nd extends to the bottom of the
skirt on the right side.
Straight collar of braid and full
sleeves trimmed with the braid, just
above the elbow, Narrow wrist-band
trimmed with braid
No. 1312, displays a group of tor-
toise and gold hair ornaments.
fronts fritomed
No. 1314.
ecru Holland linen, with white cam-
brie pipings st the edges of yoke, col
lar, and sleeves. The model 1s thirty
inches long at the front and sixty-four
inches wide. The neck is finished with
a straight band piped at the edge and
strings four inches wide and thirty-one
long, fastened at the sides of the front,
confine the apron in the back. The
bottom of the apron is finished with a
hem which may be turned up on the
right side and piped with white cam-
brie, if desired.
No. 1815.
No. 1815. Oasmumne Dress Yom A
Onno Tuner Years Ono. ~The model
is made of white cashmere, with em.
broidery in gt blue silk on the skirt,
bretel and sleeves. The embroid-
ery pis Fo of feather-stitched sprays
coming from a vine outlived in stem-
st some of the sprays being tipped
with neh knots. The fail gathered
skirt is finished with a hem and the
feathor-stitohed border; the bodice 1s
shirred in the centre of front and back,
at the neck and waist line and bor-
dered with the embroidered broetelles,
The square neck is finished with a band
ands Short ho es onde Ye
em
Prasaxt, The
No. i816
tunic and corseley are in cedar brown
embroidered with gold. Low zhemi-
sette and aprou in white maslin, trim-
med with lace. Coiffure of rilk muslin
edged with lace, and fastened with gold
pins,
Nao. 1317 Mam, — Fall
Kniekerbockers in soft red siik. Tonio
in bine beige crossed with insertions
of embroidery. Fringed scarlin striped
gauge, of wariegated hues, Loose
jacket in deep red velvet, and Llouse
in tinsel an Bed fez covered with
Beguinm
ALBANIAN
1318,
No. 1818. Curoax ror a Ginn Five
Yrans Onn, This beautafal little cloak
is made of bine plush and trimmed
with eream-colored guipure. The back
of the skirt 1s laid in pleats and joined
by a narrow heading to the body of
the garment; the fronts close in the
oentre and are ornamented with a
double row of buttons.
guipure,
FANCY WORK.
Among the thousands of novelties
now being shown for Christmas gifts
are little erochet baskets hese are
very easy to fit up and quite inexpen-
sive. For the benefit of my readers I
will trv to give a description of them
Take a very small round or square
Japanese basket, such as are sold in
any fancy store for five or ten cents,
and crochet in shell stitch with milk of
any desired color,s circular piece large
enough to cover the mouth of the bas-
ket, not too large as it will stretch
somewhat; put the ball of erochet
thread into the basket, letting the end
of the thread pass through the centre
of the crocheted cirele, then, with a
noedleful of silk, of the same color,
carefully fasten the circular piece over
the mouth of the basket.
Place two strips of ribbon, about an
inch wide, at right angles on the bot.
tom of the basket, draw thew up over
the sides and fasten with small bows on
the rounding edge (of the basket) leav-
ing two loops to extead beyond, which
are tacked together with a bow and
serve to suspend the baskst over the
back of a chair or to carry it over the
With parrow baby ribbon, to mateh,
suspend with a bow and a long loop a
pair of tiny scissors from one side of
the basket. Baskets of a larger size
fitted up in 1he same style may be util
ized to hold balls of twine.
Another novelty 1s a bolder for a eab-
inet photograph. For this take three
strips of satin ribbon, each about two
aul a half inohes wide and eighteen
inches long, and catoh them lightly to.
gether on 1he edge. The twe outer
strips should be of the same color, say
olive green, and the centre one plank,
Make » fringe on each end about twe
inches deep by ruvelling the ends of
thie ribbon. Now cover with olive
green crochet wilk a number of small
bras rings and sew them together, mak-
ing a row a trifle wider than the lower
edge of the photograph, and fasten one
#bove, at each end. lake this row of
rings by its lower edge on one end of
the ribbon about sn inch and s half
above the fringe. This forms the lower
support for tue photo,
Bew the remaining rings together in
the shape of & triangle, whose base is
as wide as the row of rings tacked
across the lower end of the ribbon,
Tack this triangle across the apper end
of the riblon, base downward, and just
far enough above the lower row of
rings to permit the photo to be #'i
in. Cover a large ring with silk and
draw the upper ends of the ribbon
through it so that it rests half way be.
iween the fringe and the top of the tri.
angle; fasten it lightly to the ribbon.
By this ring the ribbon may be sus-
pended from the corner of an easel,
fire screen or other convenient place,
It seems hardly necessary 10 say that
this work must be done with the grest-
est neatness and care to have it effect
ive All fancy work, however smumyple,
becomes an eye sore,in place of a thing
of beauty, if carclessly executed.
Necerie asp Haxprenonme Cass
Compixep, — Garnet plush snd pale
{ blue satin are need for this case, which
may be embroidered or not as cue pre
fers,
Tuke half u yard of plush and line i$
with quilted satin, sprinkling a little
sachet powder between. This should
be folded 1ogether in the middle which
will wake it almost in the form ols
square. On one balf of the inner side
| is paced a pocket for handkerchiefs,
| made of a quarter of a yard of blue
s«tin gathered at the two longest od
to tit the width of the case. Make &
headirg by two rows of stitching be-
tween which an elastic is ran, and then
we side, tarping in the edges
it down. The pocket
should ran the longe-t WAY across ihe
care, Fasten two strips of inch wide
' ribbon ut the ender and in the iddle,
on the other side; there shouli ran
8 out ‘he same disiauce from the top
and bottom but across the shortest wa
of the case, The ties are to be sipped
nnder theses. Fasten the ease with a
bow of blue ribbon
and catclinog
Exrrrep Hooo ror 3 Grn Twe
Yreans Ono. —This little hood is knitted
with while Saxony wool, and trimmed
with inech-wide white satin nbbons
Use coarse needles and cast on 44
stitches and knit to and fro as follows:
1st row. —* knit 1, out of the next
stitch work 3, namely, 1 kuit, 1 purled,
and 1 knit; repeat fiom *
2d row, —K. it plain throughout
3d row. — Right side of the work; al-
ternately knit 1, and knit 3 together
crossed (for crossed, insert the needle
at the back, and downward instead of
from the front snd upward
{th row. — Parl thronghout.
5th 7th rows — Knit so that ab
stitches appear purled on the right
side.
i Sth row Parl throughout Oen
| tinue to repeat the lst Sth rows widen-
{ing or narrowing as required to shape
lit. Begin the crown at the lower edge
| with 32 stitches and knit in the same
| pattern as the front. For the cape be-
| gin at the top, casting on 50 stitobes
{and knit to snd fro, first 9 rows of
| plain knitting then 8 rows in which all
| the stitches appear purled on the right
| side, then 14 rows of plan kmiting,
| after which cast off [urn down the
last 13 rows on the wrong side, and
| eateh the cast-off stitches to the foun.
dation stitches.
bdge the frout and bottomn of the
| cap» with a crochet edgiog done in
| shell stitch, and trim the hood with
| narrow ribbons as illustrated
Busyax says: “All the flowers it
| God's garden are double,” There is
no single mercy. It is sbounding
merey.
As you increase in years, it will be a
joy to be conscious that you bave en
deavored, however feebiy, to walk with
God.
Bruinve me, the talent of success 1
nothing more than doing what you ean
do —~ and doing well whatever you
do,
A reacn grown mn Sylvania, Va
weighed eighteen ounees and m
thurteen inches in cirenmisrence.
No men or women ever had a friend
that they could Cepend on under all cle
cumelanoes.
| The man who has the worst repula.
ton is the one who isalways worrying
about having it injured,
The work an unknown geod man has
cone is hike a ve.n of wate Bowing hid
den underg secretly makes the
Lroaund green