OUR PARIS LETTER.
The hats called ‘‘des bebes” are no
longer considered fashionable Every
moiiste of any pretention whatever,
now displays large bats somewhat «f-
ter the Directoire style, the brims pro-
jecting well indroat and broad strings
coped either in front or at the side.
The crowns of all theatre bonuets or
those designed for dressy occasions are
resplendent with gold, steel and jew-
eled embroidery, the trimmings con-
sisting chiefly of loops and puflimgs of
velvet ming ed with ostrich tips or
aigrettes. The LRosa-Josepha tip,
formed of two short feathers placed
back to bick ure just now all the rage
and are always seen on the side of the
hat.
An elegant capote lately made to
order by Virot, had a brim of puffed
black velvet, the crown of plaited
Thermidor (deep orange) chenille; at
the back loops of velvet to matoh with
black, jetted aigrettes and strings of
black velvet ribbon. One must see this
capote in order to realize its beauty,
richness and great elegance. All the
new bonnets are arranged to be worn
with the hair hugh, and (specially with
the Greek knot. A new style of coif-
Jure is to be introduced this winter
cal ed the “Madame de Sevigne,”
which consists of curls and flowing
locks.
Feathers are to be worn in profa-
sion, not only as collars and boas but
as trimming for both dresses and
wraps.
A beautiful dress of dark green cloth
has the lower edge of the skirt out in
deep points and trimmed with gold or
brown galloon, the same galloon sim-
ulating a second row of points abbve,
80 arranged as to form diamond shapes.
Upon the false skirt beneath is placed
a band of cock’s feathers, wuich not
only holds out the skirt but gives it an
added elegance. With this is worn a
long jacket and a boa of cock’s plum«s,
The rage for chemi ettes and plas-
trons, of all sorts, which were so much
worn during the summer has had the
effect of giving us a de 1ded liking for
round waists, and many ti esses are seen
made nn thas style. Lhe skirt is
mounted on a broad be t which holds
firmly the chemisette or the cor-aye
Over this dress belt worn a bs |
Jeather ¢r 1ibbon, fasteued with the
Orispin Lackle or simply a ribben that
one knots at w ll in front or at the side.
Bom times the skirt 18 sown on to
the round waist aud ihe joining con-
cealed with a corselet; somet mes th
dress fastens on s1ie all the way
down, beginning at the shoulder, then
under the arm and at the side of the
skirt, the entire fustening being hid
den by a band of embroidery, velvet or
fur wh ch reaches to the lower edge of
the skirt,
Many ot the corrages for winter dress.
es continue to ve made with the oper
jacset effects which were 80 popular
ast summer. A cloth jacket openiug
widely on a full chemisette, or a close
fitting vest, is wora with different
skirts. Sometimes the jacket is not
open, but is made with folds or pleats
defining a vest, and il for a dressy oc-
cas on a full shirt front of some pretiy
contrasting silk is fastened on unde:
the pleats. Corsages proper are made
in a variety of ways according to the
material and the circumstances under
which it is worn.
Hunting velvet is in great favor, and
nothing is pretiier tuan an entire cos
tame of ths velvet w.th a long skirt
and a deep jacket. The jacket nn ay be
worn sloue or the little cor age blouse,
closed aa la Huzee and coulined by a
belt may be worn with a d ferent
skirt. Auvotuer handsome material is
vifours du Nord, winch has hitherto
18 Of
one
ter 1s be ng used for
t 8 ldom for the entire dress.
Among the long winter
princess redingotes
encd diagonally on he
left 0) en irom the waist down, show-
ing the sule of the skirt. These are
made cinefly of velvet, with a narrow
band of fur at all the edges, and a pas-
sementer:e clasp at the left side of the
waist. The latest novelty in the way
of mantles is the return to the old
fashioned but graceful Tulmas,
These are deep capes, cut on the
bias and arranged so as to fall in
natural folds; they are plain on the
shoulders, about five or six yards
round at the lower edge, and are
thrown back to display the lining.
They are made in cloth, plush and
velours du Nord, bordered with fur
and lined either with fur or quilted
satin,
The collars of wraps are often lined
with far instead of being faced. OI
course everything Russian is now in
the height of fashion, therefore the
corafortable Russian coals are worn
again made of soft thick cloth or elie
fur Yined, fastened straight or dingo.
nally, with a crossed rolling collar and
deep cufls of far. An edging of fur
extends along the front from the end
of the collar to the foot of the gar.
ment.
Black ince continues to be used for
«veping dresses, but usually 10 com-
binat on with some other material, as
blrck velve. combined with Cigale
satiu draped with lace. A charming
dress of black velvet and orange satin
nud the corsage fronts, fall upper
sleeves and skirt front which were of
the satin, draped with black lace. A
cluster of yellow chrysanthemums was
worn in the front of the corsage and a
suunller one combined with black lace
in the hair, Another robe was of blue
ercpe de chine sud blue pean de sie;
the skirt irout wasof the latter covered
with rich silver lace scalloped at the
edge.
‘he corsage was open, with a wide
spreading Medici collar of silver lace,
forming » irame to the head and shoul.
ders; the basque and plastron were of
the sume lace; diamonds were worn in
the Laic and the gloves were white
Buede, very long and disappearing
vuder the lace ruffle of the short elbow
pleeven,
Shoes worn with ball 10bes or with
full « venming toilettes are now made of
the seme vo nterinl as the dress, with a
ribbon rosette or pompon, and the points
cmb wlered jo bowls; or fie mordore
Fuld, with the points embrouderad with
tiie sae eotored silk and metal beads,
Ve tor pl ves they ore worn long
whew the slecves aro # ort, or ouly com-
ing to the elbow; pearl-grav aud silver-
’
Sat
ot
|
i
T
gray are the shades jreferred. The
some shades are used for day wear,
but then of course they are short, as
the sleeves are so long. Gantelele
gloves are now being introduced by
the ‘*ultra {fashionables” but do not
a8 yet seem to meet wi h much favor.
Fruior Lesuie,
No. 1301.
PassemesTerie Conuar.—No. 1301,
shows a very pretty and at the same
time dressy collar of black silk passe-
menterie; it is worn with round bodices
that are plain at the top and drawn in |
pleats to the waist. }
No. 130%,
No. 1302. Gowx or Prax asp
Rovon-Strirep Woon. —The material |
for this gown is dark blue camel's hair |
with part of the goods having fu ry |
stripe« alternately black and orsuge. |
ihe front of the skirt and the vest are
of striped goods, the two being ent in
», while the which has al
short meket fro snd cont-tail back 1s |
plain Tue irt is 1 ned |
thro us dong away witn al
foundation Fis is one of the!
many desis dels of which we are |
le 10 turnsh om eaders cut paper |
on bod ©,
nt
Om wis,
it 1
«Kirt
wine in
¢
of 1
rho
ie
patterns
No. 1808. Back view,
The skirt ean be made with
foundation skirt, if with-
out it should be hired through.
We are ready to furpish patterns of
this gown aud the accompeuving cape,
No- 1308
No. 1304, Monwixa Cap.—Orange
velvet ribbon and white lace arg used
for this cap. Above the frill of lace
BACK VW
with bronze spangles, completed by a
box on the front and a smaller one at
the crown.
No. 1306, Winter Croak. —This styl-
It has a long
with a
simulated corselet of Persian
The inside collar, partly of far
Persian Lamb,
No, 1302,
No. 1303. Srreer Cosrome With
Carr. —This gown ia of plaid wool hav-
ing a heliotrope ground barred with
black and crossed with cream lines,
combined with plain heliotrope cloth.
The plain bell skirt 18 of the plaid and
the bodice which is fastened on the left
side on the shoulder and under the
arm, is of eloth with plaid sleeves. It
has a pointed Medici girdle stitohed on
at the waist. neading a deep slashed
BACK VIww,
outside of this is a high Medici collar
| of fur. The sleeves are very
from shoulder to elbow, and then
gathered into a deep enff which isa
mixture of Persian amb and velvet
No 170%, Recerrio For
el 1 of coral pink sat
eved hy dark « 3
. .
PTTH. {ny
fried
F
r
a red Ye ig £
con~iats of a prine
sh rf train worn Over a arate pe'ty
cont of milk to mat bh, which 18 faced
with satin on toe front and
with two falls of dahlia-colored fringe
with steel ‘ee da. The over dress
ent to a point at the front and trimmed
on both sides with a band of velvet,
which starts from a shoulder knot and
ends in loops and an end on the skirt;
the band on the left side covers the
fastening. A fall of fringe drops from
| the velvet coliar. The deep cuffs are
| banded with velvet
Sb
over
1%
J ——
The new shipyard building by the
| Cramps in Pliladephia; Penn., isto be
' the greatest in the world.
Three tunnsls are being constructed
| under the harbor of Glasgow, Ssotland.
| for foot passengers and trains
Taz oldest house in Saybrook, Conn.
was burped Oot. 1. It was built in
| 1666 and bad always been in the posses.
gion of the Chapman family.
Dr. Pavrixs Masox, of Toledo, O.,
vractices medicine still at the age of
70. Her gr nalather was the Chevalier
Beanffanoff, a personal fricud of Czar
Al: sander L
A man has ben arrested in Prossia
| for saying that the crazy King of B v-
{aria was the most useful monarch
| Europe, tecause he spends his
| peeling polaloes,
| Yearsago the castles of the Old
| World were shown on dinner pla es and
when Lafayelle visite: the United
| States the incidents of his visits were
pirtared on teapots and sugar bowls,
| Ques Victoria now rules over a
i population scattered in the four quar.
| ters of the globe and the islands of the
| son, aggregating © 67,000,000, a greater
number than has ever acknowledged
the sovereignity of one person in an-
cient or modern times.
Mux. pe Viariolo is probably the only
woman at present living who witnessed
the battie of Waterloo,
ninety-eight years old,
tains full possession of her faculties,
and often of the day when she
stood with her sisters in a neighboring
| wind mill and watched the defeat of
Lilwe
{
i
FANCY WORK.
In making our Christmas gifts we
should pot consider simply those things
wh ch we enjoy making, aud which cost
us but little, There must always bea
certain amount of money expended and
a do: ble smount of contrivance, pa-
tience and industry, also consideration
for the wants ana wishes of others if
we would have our gifts accep'able,
As both wall and han bags ean be
pu to uch a variety of uses, and are
always so convenient to have. they are
very desirable as gifts, Work bigs are
frequently made in purse sl ave, for
which alternate strips of silk and velvet
may by used with tassels at each
end,
The old fashioned model known as
a stocking bag, which is a circular case,
the eentre closing with a ribbon or
string, is always useful. A larger bag
may be made with a waste basket as a
foundation, the |'ning extending into a
bag top; this more capacious bag will
hold all sorts of necessary work in
times of emergency,
Bags for soiled linen and shoe bags
should find a place in every closet of a
sleeping room.
linen ean be made
any mize desired,
of gray
Some
colored worsted, or worsted and silk,
on the outer side and then it is lined
with sateen to mateh the most promi-
nent color of the embroidery,
About au inch and a half below the
upper edge or mouth of the bag, a cas-
{ ing is made by two rows of stitching
{ half an inch apart throngh which draw
strings of the worsted, finished with
tas eis, are ran. These bags might be
made more elaborate, but it is notin
good taste as they then become unsuit-
able for the purpose for which they
were intended,
material with two rows of pockets, just
wide enough to tack on thecloset door,
and bound with bright
A piece nearly twice ong #8
foundation is wide is shirred at t
and bottom, or else laid
d to the foundation
aR
to
he
fasion
For the little ones who love nothing
tter than 8 dol
without
b
sronnd
the knitted ones
the doll at the ne ck,
zephyr for the
at the
Ww un
that
fear of
BO eax]
they ean throw
break ng, are
¥ Rae,
HRI Te
Cast 1 1
the ive ile
«3 shite
Depin
Var
MAY,
1 §
ado
in
evYervyrow iil os
un ilen
llier ro
ti
yi have ,
60 a have 32 stitches
ah : } Iii 8
al the bezinniag and
Knit one re
IW one
t 41 3 {f
vie end of § 1
thie edle,
row
{ the noedl Next
row narrow. Knit
two rows plain; then two rows wider,
fn ing and end the needle,
pisin row between,
Kpit 3 rows plain; 1 row
each end.
Continue knitting
I row narrowed at
have 20 stitches,
jacket,
After knitting the other half in the
same manper, take up stitches at the
bottom of the jacket and knit 6 rows of
bleck to form a belt.
Use blue wool or zephyr for the pan-
taloons, widening every third stiteh on
the back. Knit 4 rows.
Al the fi'th row widen each
the seam: knit 3 rows and widen
then 3 more plain,
ake off half the
i e-fiith of the
for a gore
When long
have
black ya n or
For
denn
unt
Tow
i"
# plain; next
nning and end
row plein. Next
begging of
wth one
narrow at
i rows plain and
each end until you
his makes half the
side of
ARID;
for the leg.
cles i the
stitehes
atid
fike
asl on
and kot
wl [8
the sles
al oac
ave
oF
w wn
FP eh
it
then tarrow at each
Koit 1 row plan
Knit 1
end of the
and 1 row
YOu
Join on white and take fonr needles.
Ku:it 2 and then widen on each needle.
Knit 6 rows and narrow off the stitches
For the neck pick up 12 stitches at
the top of the jacket, using four
needles. Knit 4 rows plain; take half
the stitches on the back for hair and
koit with black. Widen five times on
first row; knit 8 rows plain.
Knit 3 rows, narrowing each time at
the beginning and at the end of the
Take the other half of the
stitches for the fae, using white or
pink. Widen every second stitch on
the first row, then knit 4 rows like the
heel of a stocking and widen on the
For
the nose knit on the wrong side plain;
on the right side widen at each end of
the former widening.
Knit 6 rows plain,
off the lass two wideninga.
&
fr WW
Next row narrow
Knit 1 row
Lard
7
ART ri
cid
WORE Bat
ow off the
»
Widen
WHEL ED ~ WE, Tow
and knit
pick up the
this black
the first row,
i bind
are
cotton
nee ile threaded 1
4
Open sea'as
Work
4} black
Little
may be added
where ther
we
with
or
SCAT Ie! read.
rb
coat,
itt
scariet
Heap Bran his
enshion ix fourteen inches wide, meas-
uring from ide to side between the
pane It is covered with corded silk
et vas. On the upper side is
t 1 of ol vet inches
ther side of this is em
terra-cotta and
any prefiy design one may
The edge is tinished with a
silk and gold cord twisted into loops at
the corners, and forming a long loop at
the top by which it 1s to be suspended.
Wonk Bao. For this baz two
squares of cream satin either pointed
or embroidered are employed, and sur
rounded with a faney gallos and a
ruching of silk.
Ribbon rosettes are p
r COTrners
10 the
hexagonal down
on the b
BCL A Dana seven
wi le,
broidere
olive sik
choose,
And OD «
i in suades
¥
a
laced at the tw
ped bows at the
A netted or erocheted
ned st the top of
iteide and th
{ ’ $4
iI BR pretty
lowe and |
er COT Hy TE
np
fasts the
0 the ing
nirast
a
en is to
over tue
1 he ot
Da drawn wgeter wilh
ster of ribbot
turow
elu
r the ar
abek of a cualr
Bi
yery
m
mn
or
Ee
as-sTI70H. ~— This band 1»
uitable to use for ornamenatiog
the soiled linen bags mentioned in our
article on Chrstmas gilts in this 1ssne
The baad could be worked scross the
bottom of the bag about an inca above
the edge, and in the centre the owner's
initials or monogram embroidered.
AD Ix Un
“
--—-
M. W. Banos, of Cambridge, Eag-
land, enjoys the reputation of being
the oldest surgeon in the world. He
was born in March, 180),
Axxa M. Boragsr, o! Brooklyn, N.
Y., has been granted a patent for an
upper case treadle-attachment for type-
writing machines,