The Centre reporter. (Centre Hall, Pa.) 1871-1940, November 12, 1891, Image 2

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CU: RENT FASHIONS.
There sre so many preity fabrics be-
hang new, somethine diflerent, go that
me bardly knows where to begin to
secord them a'l,. Rough {i { fab
ies will take the lead in
sosturres this winter, snd alarge varie-
iy of styles in handsome designs are
wailable,
New importations of quaintly pat-
erned woolen fabrics are being opened
lastly; the Jurge shagey checks are usual
y wade up with a gored seam on the
yont and sid. s, brivgingthe pattern to
s series of very deep points. The bod-
ce is tlso ont crosswise of the goods,
yroduecing the same pointed effect both
n front and back.
On smooth grounds are seen squares
ormed by long hsiry stripes; other
mouth grounds show large rough dots
n the same color as the ground, but in
; different shade. Smooth grounds al-
0 have stripes of another color; these
tripes huve a border in hairy eflect
and of a different shade so thut three
olors are shown.
Broadcloth is one of the favorite ma.
erials fur winter gowps. In
ints it is used for evening toilettes;
xd in dark, rich shades for tailor cos-
vmes. ‘Ihe newest style of skirts for
ishe
arrow at the top and gradually widen-
ng #8 it reaches the bottom. Tins
deat is interlined with canvas to keep
tin shape.
paterial, is lined with silk; if itis of a
yottom of the skirtis sufficient. Many
1ecessary for the skirt.
wre looped and fastened with a bow or
osette made of ribbons or with a pas-
ementerie clasp ina different color.
yy feathers or flowers. The most fa-
rored fabries for these dresses are the
ew brocades.
thoulders as formerly and are now the
nost difficult portion of the
what style of sleeve is brecoming to
moh pactienlar arm requires a vast
ileal of thonght and planning on the
art of the dressmaker.
The coat bodice is a grea¢ favorite
ind one so capable of variation that it
will be worn for some time to come.
Dune of the shapes, not very general,
ans long basques cut in one with the
jacket part, and the back drawn in like
+ gentleman's waistcoast by a strap and
buckle. Basques are fashionable of
svery shape, whether plain, pleated, or
divided in deep tabs.
Vests either plain or dotted with jet,
steel or mit are worn with cloth
ames. Broeades are used forthe same
purpose, also cloth & contrasting
sol. r. Plain waistcoats of wits
QOS
of
cloth
or corded silk also look well with cloth,
and for serge dresses there are pretty |
vests of striped and spotted flannel and |
white cloth; it is a good plan to
geveral waistcoats to wear with
5 1
aiiet
each
In Paris, ¥
DYEer sil
safe to §
ble here.
making
shot with 3
ye How Hoy
plays a
ary.
For elegant an
amen, ti
8 part in mill
i refined black
Sti sutiful Priestley good
in great de nd. A wool cre pel
gicularly beantifnl also a wool sali
© Ue
if
pur-
’
Children’s
changing much are
pretty, and without doubt American
children are the most a'tructively
dressed of those of all nations, Nearly
t all the new woolen e oths are employed
for them sn | naval costumes, Russian
{ dresses and mantles abound, Coals
with belts and fancy clasps are also
made which have a eape or small man-
tle draped on the shoulder and held by
an acrafle in passementerie or fur, A
capital coat for a school girl is made of
dark blne serge, long enough to cover
the dress, with a ucep cape reaching ‘0
the wast and a little pointed hood.
Priestley’s cravennette, a thoroughly
water proof cloth, is very suitable for
these coats, Tie coat and hood may
be lined with some bright colored silk
to form a pretty contrast. The coat is
double-breasted and loose in front, but
fitted in the back. Long coats are the
principal outdoor garments for chil-
dren.
Many of the frocks
“tots” are made with long bodices to
which the skirts are sewn. A pretty
model is of heliotrope cloth with collar
and eufls of velvet, Bands of velvet
headed by cloth pipings ornament the
skirt, while the back of the bodice is
trimmed in a point, Guimps of em-
broideny are worn with woolen frocra,
as well us those of siik with finishings
| of velvet. A gown of striped blue and
white wool is made with a full skirt
gathered on to a plain waist, ov r
which are little jacket fronts of the
same material having a border of lace,
The weist and jacket are cut low in
| the neck being worn over a gunimpe of
maize co ored silk. ‘I'he sleeves are
| formed of a short puff of thé dress ma-
| terial. In millinery, feathers have
taken the pluce of flowers. Felt will be
little worn in comparison with velvet,
cloth and fur. Velvet ribbons in vari-
ous gradations of color are appearing
snd combined with feathers will form
the chief trimming of hats These
fashions although not
still wonderfully
for the little
|
and has the satin back of dark green,
into rose pink with the back of maize
color, While these mixtures of color
seems somewhat starting, yet in the
whole they are extremely harmonious,
Bora Corian,
for
abrics
ts
wrk
which is very suitable
gowns, Camel's hair
produce such roft, rich effec
ways fashionable,
¥or handsome
f
i
{
and
home
galine brocaded with sprays and rib-
bon effects in bright colori, For
than flannel in delicate tints as rose,
pale blue or lilac; these combine well
with blouses of cotton crepon with
lace trimmings, and confined at ihe
waist by a wide ribbon sash. Pretty
dresses and tea gowns, These fabrics
are as fine as French challies, but the
grounds are dark or black and bro-
eaded with small brilliant flowers and
foliage. Tea gowns will
never go entirely out of style because
No. 1265.
No. 1285. Gowx oF Prax asp
Broonr Woon. —The skirt of this gray
wool costume
broche wool to match, set in the front
I'he coat bodice with square pocket
| flaps is cut down in a Pompadour
| square in the front ana back snd filled
| in with @ pleated gnimpe and high col-
{ lar of the broche wool.
No. 1266. Rzcmeriox Dress.~ This
, very stylish gown is of maize-colored
time too comfortable.
with designs of pink four o'clocks.
The skirt Las a bias band of dark wine
eolored velvet at the hem; the full
sleeves are of fawn colored corded milk,
with deep velvet enfis,
vet collar is lined with the silk.
The fall and winter jackets are
rather dressy and made of eloth and
fur. As the season advances they will
i
i
pees. The close fitting Newmarket
seems fo be regaining
tight fitting costs in dark blue cloth
will be ihe first to appear; they are
made without ornaments, in rough,
shaggy cloth, closed with buttons of
silver or bronze. Broad shawl-revers
of beaver, lynx, or seal decorate other
coats which have a narrow edging of
fur down the front and around the
bottom. These revers turned back
reveal pretty waistcoats oi cloth, silk,
suede, or buckskin richly embroidered
with steel or gilt. The sleeves are no
i
pains is taken with the out so that fig-
Wres are s
age.
The shapes of winter cloaks have
undergone no material ¢ those
for visiting, ete., are made of velvet or
lush richly embroidered with jet,
Sony are made of beautiful Lyons
velvet, out with a Wattean pleat in the
back. Yokes of far are a new idea and
add greatly to the beauty of the gar.
ment. The newest fur reach
almost to the knee, and nearly all have
yokes and high shoulders.
One of the greatest novelties are the
fur waistcoats in seal, castor or sstra-
shan, with heavy applications of rich
embroideries. y are worn with
wose haraiog cors ge
i
silk with garnitures of black Chantilly
lsce, silk embroidery, black feathers
and white faille silk and ribbon. The
skirt perfectly plain in front is bor-
which is an insertion of black silk em-
broidery. On the hips are pointed
paniers of silk, draped by knots of
white ribbon and edged with a deep
flounce of Chantilly which falls in |
cascades on each side of the skirt, The
round bodice is draped at the wast
with faille snd at the top of the front
leated lace is arranged which pro.
ongs itself on the left front and forms
{ in the back a sort of capuchonor hood.
| Knots of ribbon crnsment the shoul-
! ders; the sleeves are close, with little |
| fulness at the top and ornamented at
the bottom with bands and knots of
ribbon.
The material for No. 1267, is of dark
brown cheviot checked with beige
stripe. The under skirt of
1a faced with brown
the dress skirt is cut in deep
tabs across the front leaving the satin
to show beneath.
The jacket = ast
revers which form a
and are faced with
of beige colored cloth embroidered in
brown silk, the straight collar,
Pocketlaps of brown silk,
is eut with rolling
collar in the back
satin, The vest is
Ri¥0O
0
Ty
No. 1.69
No. 1268. Gray Bedford cord striped
with black and trimmed with black vel-
'
:
i
The skirt 18 orna-
velvet with a narrow vine of passemen- |
terio between.
No A270,
The JlMin points bodice is closed
on the left side and shoulder with bat-
tons and button holes; it is also orna-
mented with velvet and trie
to match that on the sk the velvet
ends being allowed to fall over the
right side of the skirt almost to the
s. The sleeves are cut on the bias
Just now when the wardrobe is being
replenished for the winter season, pers
laps a few notes the prevailing
styles of ladies underwear will not
come amiss to our readers.
In this department there is certainly
a new departure in favor of severe sim-
plicity, but like *, ride tbat apes humil-
iy,” it is a simplicity that is extremely
costly, On the newest chem ses and
night gowns displayed there is no lace
but the garments borderel with bouil. |
lonnes and narrow hemmed frillings; |
but the costly hand-worked veining is |
a conspicious feature in the trimming, |
and means possibly greater exirava- |
gunce than even a deep fall of Valen- |
ciennes lace,
on
§
A new and charming style for night
gowns is to trim them with soft wide
muslin frills, put on very deer, worked |
at the edge by hand in a novel stiteh,
blue, mauve or pink, and some times |
heliotrope; pink is the newest, indeed i
the ingrain coltea for this parpose is
‘ it
i« headed by a vein ng where the fr il
is sewed the garme t. Only the
initinted woul! pot this mode of ap-
b:% what diffe it
makes in the cost!
10
6
piieation, i
Chee
10 have
that
The new ent in ar
them of exceeding
wWers
width,
18
2)
coat. Chemises
I mpire
Bhd Crossing
sre
style, drawn
ent in the pretty
iu the waist
in front, Corset covers
are now made without any fastening,
with the fronts ent on the bias, and
erossing like the ends of a kerchbief and
disappenring beneath the band of the
skirt,
silk, nainsook
at
and cambrie, trimmed
Valenciennes, Medies, Torchon or
point de Paris lace, embroidery and in-
sertion forming the edge. Bome are
cut in V. shape or in a square necked
yoke; some are tucked above the waist,
draped from the shoulders, or the
|
|
3
i
|
No. 1271. |
No. 1269. Hovse Dress ron A Youso |
Liapy.—This costume is of light bloe |
striped with deeper bine.
of blue cloth |
The bottom of the sk rt
has a deep band of blue cloth headed i
by a narrow baud of bloe velvet. The
bodice with back of a mogle piece and
straight fronts opens on a chemise of
closed in the centre
and f.stened on a
close lining; collar of the muslin.
An edge raipare surrounds the vest
moanted by a band of el
slog ves, on t ins with deep enfl
A { c oth :
0s
tl
sae
5 ol yl:
a fer
@ %
. §
the |
e of
sash
“ §
Cons
velvet,
waist and
the chemise,
drapes
ines the lower ed;
tucks form a square plastron, back
and front, wit" a yoke of lace abuve,
For slender « * en
set covers gathered around the waist
w th a draw string and bLeld by the 1n-
sertion neck band threaded with rib-
bon st the top. Others are full only
in front with the usual fitted back.
GENTLEMAN'S KNITTED DRIVING
Grove.~This glove is knitted with
brownp-m xed esmel’s-hair wool, aud is
faced with leather on its inner surfs
Jegin the work at the wrist, casting on
60 stiteher, and knit © 0 rounds in rib-
bed knitting, 2 stitches pisin and 2
purled. Next work 46 rounds in plain
knitting, but 10 the 22d row of these
after knitting the first 16 stitches, set
the rest aside for the present, east on
16 new stitenes added to the other 16,
making 32 stitches for the thumb; knit
42 rounds on thege: in the 8th round
narrow 1 stiteh at both ends of the 16
stitches east on, and narrow the samo
3 times thereafter at intervals of 3
rows; in the last 8 of the 42 rows point
the thumb by decreasing gradually.
Take up 16 stitches out of the 16 cast
on for the thumb, these now forming
the first stitches of the round, add
them to the stitches set aside, and com
plete the remaind the 40 rounds
or the hand forefinger ‘ake
i separate need) first U stitc
cast on new and tsk
Inst © stitehes of the round; kaif
rounds on these, in the lust 8 o ii
1 For the middle finger
take the next 8 stitches of the back and
palm, cast on 8 stitcLes between, and
take 3 stitches out of the cast ou for
t e forefin_ er, and on these 22 8 i
knit 42 rounds, in the last 8B of which
point the finger, Yor the third finger
take 7 of the remaining stitches of both
back and palm, cast on 3 between, snd
take up 2 out of the 3 cast on for the
i middle finger; knit it to She same
length as the forefinger. For the lit
{ tle floger take wwe remaining stitches
| of the hand, and take up 3 from those
t cast on for the third finger; knit 29
| rounds, pointing it in the last 6. These
directions are for the right glove, sud
must be reversed for the left; they are
| bor gloves of average size; the f
{ean be lengthened or sbhorteved
needed.
ce
of
He
9 ‘
ye
ol
’ wi i
point the finger,
3
oo
bss
JER
ingers
EY
make
material need, but
difficult of unde
them costly for
4
'
these garments
the amount of
I
the under- |
h a puf f
insertion |
Some |
on all
Lr
Hibbon appears
covered
he
y
Nag o
£4
part,
printed muslin |
ral patterns, |
with i
fe
mus in aod stitch
also plays an
merchants are
ierwenr
rimmed at
are
m
41 portant
seding
with fl
the
more
home wear,
ed lace, bu
r traveling
ge
suited
$4
t ¥
it
} n
Fett
qn
are
siike, 3
many point
not onl prefty
dass,
ta
re
red
i gi
"i
% in 3
ev are
the nd best of ali are
i
|
i
i
:
i
So
dd
No. 1
No. 1271. A hat of felt with rolled |
brim, ornamented with a band of gros-
grain ribbon around the crown and
folds of the same in front fastened by
a mother-of-pearl buckle.
No. 1272
Yuans Ou,
ness Por A Ginn Sevex
For this dress Chinchilla |
The notched basque 1s
trimmed with a narrow, bias band of
velvet. The front of the bodice is
formed of pleated folds of velvet with
» plain centre of velvet; in the back
the ue 1a furnished by a corselet
back held at the waist by series of |
pleats, notched at the top on an em-
piecement of velvet placed, like the |
leated front, on the bodice lining. |
Jeeves of velv t with short puffed
sleeves of the wool goods, ornamented
with a band and knot of velvet. At the
contre of the waist in front a small
knot of velvet; high collar of the same
mat
J. J. Halliday rode from Ervay to
Casper, Wyo., a distance of seventy
miles, in six hours, changing horses but
once. went for a sician to
attend a woman who had ted her |
J man who has sent
Lip.
An Atohison giian,
an envelope for
twenty years, says he has never
and trimmed to matoh the skirt.
Lh
lost a dollar,
in this way, also rem- |
which are not available |
and can be!
Era.
mik
for any other purpose
bought for a mere song.
-
TraverLiNe Cvsiioss — The larger of |
these two cushions is made of cream- |
colored linen and embroidered on the
two corners with colored wash embroi- |
dery cotton. Diagonally across ‘the
cushion is placed an insertion in crochet |
lined with erimson cotton. The cush- |
jon is finished with a cord around the |
edge, which on one side is twisted to
form a handle; clusters of pompons or-
nament each corner.
The smaller cushion is made of!
Cross - grrron Evnrotpenry, — This
eto.
In Queen Elizabeth’ time it was ike
custom for women 10 wear one Or more
rings upon each thumb, and to have the
marriage celebrated by using twotofive
of the little gold bands,
‘I'he gymnotus, or electrical eel, is com-
when they become an easy prey.
1n North Warren, Me., weekly pray-
and minister, except for an occasional
lecture,
There is a curiosity pear Cordele,
Ga. . in the shape of a pine tree, It
begins from the ground as two separ-
ate and well developed trees, and cou-
tinues sofor a distance of fourteen
feet, when they join and go upward as