OURRENT FASHIONS,
However much we dislike to
broach the subject, and deeply regret
its necessity, neverthc es mourning
costumes demand their ! shareofour
attention. The rules wh... govern this
department of fashion are very little
understood by the greater part of the
community, there being not so much
change in thy e materials as there 18 1n
colors. For first mourning Cos:
tumes Prestly’'s silk-warp Henrietta
cloth is considered the most stylish,
made up alone or trimmed with Court-
auld’s English crepe which exactly
matches the dress goods in color. Tuis
material fulls in soft and graceful folds
and can be eusily draped in almost any
style. The prevailing fashions may be
followed in making these dresses, sare
being taken always to avoid those that
are in any way conspicuous A very
desirable style is to have the skirt with
plain front and sides and the back
closely gathered in the centre; across
the front and sides a bard of crepe
half a yard deep. The bodice cut with
basques having pocket laps, collar and
cufls of crepe, or the basque and sleeves
entirely of crepe.
For a second bebt dress a crepe
cloth nun’s serge or cheviot either
with trimmings of erepe, silk braid or
simple rows of stitching is suitable,
Crepe veils reach the bottom of the
dress in front with a deep hem, but ex-
temd only to the waist line in the back
with a narrow hem. These veils are
worn over the face only three months,
even by widows, and are entirely [aid
aside after this period of time by young
girls. LEdgings of white for the neck
and sleeves of dresses are admissible
from the first. The outer wrapshonld
be made of the same material as the
dress, only heavier in weight, but if
sreferred a cloth jacket may be worn.
Slack suede gloves and onyx jewelry
are worn, but people of the best taste
discard jewelry entirely for the first six
:
months,
Fashion dic
second
BC
wh
rules for
Glee
tates
mourning,
the |
mast
that
m
i
i p
3 DEeAVY crepe vet
sue with woven hem
narrow stripes which resemble
Usually the family putting on monrning
decide thelengtnjof time second mourn- |
ing shall be worn. The black
ef camel's hair serge, armure, cheviot
ete., are com ed with trimmings of
black, gray and lavender silk, wuite
dresses with black trimming , black
and gray crepons, silks and cashmere |
with jet and lace trimmings, snd for |
extra occasions lace and grenadine over
gray or lavender silk are all admissible.
Glace kid gloves in pearl, gray or |
lavender with black stitching are worn
and hats of crepe are replaced by those
of black felt or straw with trimmings |
of ribbon, flowers, aigrettes and wings. |
It is rumored that black costumes, |
not as mourning, will be
ly worn this season This
no doubt to the fact that the i
brated Priestly's black dress goods |
include all the newest weaves in both
i
Arosses
hin
large- |
ig due!
ng}
Cele
silk and all wool warp, which never ;
grows rusty and can therefore always
be matched. Their water proof
for stormy weather come
gray, brown
os cially adapted for
and those who are
bad weather.
and
A handsome black dress shown by
one of our leading houses, is made of
Priestiy's cashmere valley wool with
sleeves nnd two deep frills, at the edge |
of the bodice, of rich black silk. A nar- |
row jet {rimming ornaments the seams
and edges the bodice. Another black
dress with a close fitting cost bodice
has white sleeves covered with black lace,
One of the prettiest costumes of wool
is 8 beautiful shade of corn flower 1 [ue;
the coat with revers, gauntlet cuffs and
large buttons of black silk, and the
wast coat of the same fabric. With
this dress was worn black suede gloves
and a black hat trimmed with feathers,
By far the most fashionable tweed just
now is the stripe or check; in pale
grays and different shades of brown
they are very pretty, and usually are
made with a jacket to mateh. Blue
serges are still fashionable for morn-
ng wear.
Another pretty costume is a street
drees of chestnut brown ladies’ cloth!
out in Princesse style with coat eflects
in the back. The skirt perfectly plain;
the bodice crossed diagonally over a
plastron of beige-colored lace en-
riched with gold thread and jet. The
short, notched revers and cuffs are of
loutre velvet and a narrow gamp of un-
ent jet and gold edges the right side
from the lower point of the revers to
tke bottom of the skirt. ‘lhe back of
the straight collar is of cloth and the
front of lece to match the plastron.
A French dinner dress from Raund-
nitz of Paris is of Absinthe silk decor-
stad with festoons of fine variegated
flowers; the skirt ‘“‘en train” and across
the front and sides a puff of plain silk
of a slightly darker color ad
with jeweled passementerie. The
bodice of olive velvet cut decolliete
both in front and back, is ornamented
with jeweled passemeterie and finished
at the top with bias folds of the silk
edged with puftings of tulle. Short
lecves composed of folds of silk and
tulle.
A London ball dress of plain cigale
satin has across the foot and up to the
left mde large crimson velvet poppies
with leaves. The skirt is plain with a
small puff of darker green velvet at the
lower edge, and 1s entirely draped with
black tulle.
The pointed bodice, decollete, is
laced in the back and trimmed with
Hp and black tulle; a large bow of
dark green velvet ribbon ornaments
the top of the bodice in the back, the
ends reaching almost to the bottom of
the dress and concealing the lacing of
be bodice. Half sleeves of silk and
talle,
The new shapes in felt hats are not
exceedingly protty; the flat styles
which predominate are up at the
back or one side and fairly bristle
with pointed wi and small birds
which form of ture seems to be in
the higltest favor,
ig the leading |
with it, and
an my
net
with =» ister Hi
ostrich tips, A cul
elvet bh
and
ie garnitare.
in, they
as Bn
f mink velvet,
ends as Boas
i are much larger
han those worn last season and are in
all leng hs. They are made of ince,
lowers, feathers and every kind of fur. |
The cock feather boas are not stylish |
unless of the pointed black variety;
81d
ie rage ‘i
vd taper to slender points |
at the ends.
Jet appears on every thing and will |
be more worn than ever. It is seen not
only on cloth dresses, capes, closks
and bats, but also on the lace worn
aver colored silk for evening costumes,
for instance that of a large spray of
wheat ears in fine iet and pearls, cres.
No. 1249
cent designs iu gold and jet, stars in
jet and pearls, and halt enrves in gold
and pink pearls. These designs come
not only ou black bnt also white lace.
Trimmings for evening dresses are al-
most barbarie in splendor, consisting
of pointed girdles, fringes and gimps
of jet, gold, white aud colored pearls.
Among the laces the newest is guipure
de gene which cones in all widths and
both in white and cream. The Istest
style in veils are real veils of ganuine,
white lace draped over the hat to form
a point in front; these come also in
black which are more favored than the
white.
Gloves for street wear are shown in
all the fashionable colors with steel or |
silk embroidered gauntlets; these are
drawn up over the dress sleeve. For
carrisge or evening wear the lo
wrists are cut in Vandyke pote og
edged with a deep frill of black or
and from ‘his proceod the black rib |
bon strings,
No. 1261, Har vor Harr Movns-
86. ~—Black lace, trimmed with steel
lance, 18 used for this hat, the soft crown
being of black Ilsce while the centre
band is of the steel lace. The front
edge of the hat is formed by a flounce
of black lace, mounted by a narrow
band of steel pearls with a knot of steel
in the centra «f the front. Biri. gs of
black faille ribbon.
Jacker Bobpiwoe.—No, 1 is an
jacket boidee in imitation crepe cloth,
another of the “Priestly” brand
goods. The vest 18 of deep black wool:
len, with two rows of buttons down the
centre, Jet ball beads edge the lapels
which form a rounding collar in the
back, the edge the jacket,
inner arm seams and ihe wrists,
High collar and plain cuffs of thejsame
materia) us th vest,
a5
“»
of
of
ne
white lace seccording
black,
reg eatlecd in : AOve.
of white moussciin {e #e
with ds throidered and
corners all in white,
For imformation received thanks are
dune Messre. B. Allman & Co, Nine.
teenth St. and Sixth Ave
Roma C
(thers are yi
tate ¥ $e
lieate en edges
UTLEER,
No. 1250
No 1947. Movexise CosTuMps —
Oar first model is a dress of Priestiy’s
Courtasld crepe.
fourteen inches deep with the crepe on
the front and sides, while the centre of
the back is closely pleated. The coat
bodice has a sisshed basque, and opens
with crepe revers and collar on s vest
pleated Henrietta vest above.
sleeves are buttoned at the wrist,
No. 1251
No. 124%. ‘I'he second model is a
dress, fora Joune girl, of black camel's
hair with a border of at the foot
of the skirt, the basque skirt and collar
of the coat are of
with hooks vn aves.
No. 1249. Monxinag Waar, This
front of a single
in the
gathered at
flounce §
oomsy
centre;
of imalating a basque
open in front, « pletes the lower edge
of the bodice. The top of the bodice
both back and front, 1s gathered and
trimmed with lace to simulate a square
| yoke; high collar covered with lace and
No. 1253
Tumse wmoxoonasss, for marking
house and table linen, consist of letters
designed in the Japanese style with
bamboo stalks, Poe decorated with
birds each holding a spray of foliage
and berries. 'L'o this device is attached
an escutcheon inclosing a smaller lot.
ter standing for a christian name, the
whole being reproduced in white or
colored silks, or cottons, effectively
LE -
sol off with washing gold thread. These
letters are adapted to every kind of
decorative work and may be executed
in various ways. Crewel work may be
used for the birds and a padded satin
stitoh for the stems of the bamboo,
leaves and berries; or a twist stitch
may outline the stalks, encircling it
for the joints, the 1 being Hlled
with a fine knot stitch. From time to
time we will give the remainicg letters
of this alphabet.
FANCY WORK,
————————————
Among the many usetul and neces
sary artioles of household furnishing,
the sereen plays a most important part,
It is not necessary to dilate on this
point for but few persons have not, at
some time, ‘elt the need of one of these
most useful articles, especially if in the
economy of living, one room must
serve for many purposes.
Small, single or three-fold, screens
are considered the most fashionable,
but they cannot clam the charm of
novelty.
¢8t ones
for drawing room use
colored silks, the
black
embroidered with
mount of Japanese
of black wood. These articles sre quite
expensive and when we
even in a small house seve al are need-
ed, we are not surprised to see th: se
m serable eard-board substitutes with
colored flowers or landscapes,
If one has the time she can easily
make, or have made to order, some
very attractive screen which would be
Tamx Bones. —The foundation for
ids is either gilt ebony or enamelisd
wood; the side supports, ornamented
with mixed chenille cord snd tassels,
are vertically grooved to raise or lower
the inside panel in order to subdue the
light of the lamp. The screen is made
of card-board covered with pink sikk
snd ornamented with an embroidered
scroll design. The brass ring st the
top is covered with button hole stitch-
| ing in rope silk. The stationary panel
{is in pink moire silk also embroidered
{in gold or variegated silks, 'L'his same
Senlgn can be adapted for 8s paper
rack.
i
CROCHET SQUARE POR ANTIMACASSARS
| axp Covnrenranes, Commence in the
center of one of the rosettes at the
corpers of the squares, make a chain of
{ 16 stitches, join in a ring, chain 2 to
{take the place of a donble, * chain 7,
slip stitch into the 8d, chain 7, repeat
from * twice more, one-half doubls
into 2d of lust 7 chain, 4. ¢. into esch
of the 2 next stitches (see cut , chains
4, slip stitch into top of last double, 4d.
| ¢. into each of the J next stitches, chain
ble.
Frames made of a ‘inn
wood, with binges, ready fixed are cas
stained and then mounted witl
or
panels of embroidered
or satin, If de
terial could be employed; the
which the sereen 18 to be put
determining the choles
Spiders’ webs are
BCreens and not
in the { ' ’
in the § nner
sired less expensive
use 10
PO
are diffiend
ollowing m
IX 4 plain panel
} I
3 folds
irop or tw
cl.
orated some
iB very ¢
make,
I€ 18
over
nto
make
of the
Ww
ILA Bguard
Ww F CRIG-DOATNG ADAG DINK t
with pe: tie the roe
knot : 1 nyper corners and
an ancl ir the top ortament
frame, gild or bronze the
hole of IL he god and brong
powders with tl metallic colors
wost suitable { i
ClOBGBLY
cutting o1
rape
Ave £even §
repres
have them the same width all
up as it makes the screen look lighte
These sticks when mounted
Ta
iv 3
require @
round ball rather larger than a billiard
ball and is set on three feet which arc
smooth, a little thicker than a pencil,
and esch five incnes in length. Three
holes are made near together om one
side of the ball and the feet are fixed
into these, slanting outwards, so that
the stand is firm. Across the top of
the ball five small holes are mad: in a
straight line, and into these the sticks
are slipped when the fan leaf is finished.
The leaf is not folded buts only a
piece of stiff mosiin out to shape.
Shaded gold chrysanthemum tals,
either of silk or muslin are or and
sewed on in rows. Commence at the
top and sew them on as lightly as poss:
ble, letting them curl forward. Fasten
the leaf when’ it 1s entirely covered
with petals, on to the sticks and line
the back with sateen. About three
inches of the stick should be left visi-
ble, an | these with the stand should be
enameled white,
Dainty fingers could make the petals
out of the crepe tissue paper which is
a charming substitute for silk and
muslin artificial flowers, at about one
fourth the cost of the latter. The book
of directions sold with the paper cn-
with ease provided they have the time
to give to it, Ena.
leseribed;
as
: 1 12
{
ce, for
s work
f one of
nto each stitch,
next
take
CaCl
on the side of the other cor-
ner, slip stiteh into each of
stitches, chain 5, & in 24,
slip stitch into each of the J centre
! stite chain worked between
| the picots, chain 7, ¢. ¢. in 3d, chain 4,
{ mss 7 stitches, c. in next, repeat
{ from last * once more, slip stitch into
| each of 3 stitches, chain § & c in od,
{ chain 3, 5. ¢. in the Tth of the 12 chain,
| chain 3, slip stitch to the Ist = eo,
| bread off the thread, work the cther 3
| pieces of insertion between the corners
| as described. For the outer edge ©
| square #. ¢, into each stitch at side o
| square, and b into each corner.
¥
o
es of the
B,
—— mm—
of
| Tue women Detroit, in conven-
{tion assembled, have unanimously
| saopted the following resolution : *“That
| it is the sense of this meeting that the
| United States has adopted a very per
| nicious policy in giving the ballot to
| foreign-born men soon after their ar.
| rival in this country; that this policy
| is, in faet, surrendering the politics of
| our nation into the hands of an ignor
| ant, un-American population; that this
| policy is a menace to the rights cl
| American women and to the hope the
nation has had of bringing to bear in
| 16s politics the intelligence and virtae
oi American womanhood.”
: st
Over 16,000 women en
wouks of *the New York
Woman's Work.
Tieng are
| rolled on the
! Exchange for