The Centre reporter. (Centre Hall, Pa.) 1871-1940, July 02, 1891, Image 2

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    CURRENT FASHIONS.
ns
Outdoor wraps show an unusual
amount of variety, one of the most
fashionable shapes being the pelerine.
It appears as a small cape just covering
the shoulders for visiting toilette, and
a8 a long wide mantle to be worn for
protection against dust and rain. The
pelerine gives in addition, the f unda-
tion shape for all the new travelling
cloaks, & deep leat being laid on each
side of the high shoulder to give suffi.
ecient space for the arms, and these
pleats hidden by a rich passementerie
trimming or ribbon. Short half fitting
jackets are still worn with a double row
of buttons, or the fronts turned back as
revers. I'he greatest favorite, how-
ever, is the balf-long cloak, with
basques, so becoming to tall, slender
figures and which ean be worn by
ladies of short stature if they are
careful to observe that the length of
the basque is of the right propor-
tion to the length of the skirt
that is, that the cloak must not reach
to the knee in front yet completely
cover the hips. Pretty coats may be
seen with Ps divided mto a
series of deep cut tabs, which adds to
its effectiveness. These coats are ex-
fensively worn and have a more dressy
effect than the plain coat basque; but
for those whom the style suits, the full
basque, with hips much set out, is con-
sidered more stylish.
The use of the lace cape and the lace
cloak, with its long wing-like sleeves is
greatly favored; the cape is more worn
than any other kind of wrap, and is
now so much extended in length that it
is preferred to the lace cloak. With its
graceful length and flowing sleeves it
18 very becoming and stylish. Jackets
of milk as well as of lace are also very
stylish; they show high sleeves, lace
collar and cuffs extending to the elbow,
and are elaborately trimmed with lace
and black silk cord passementerie.
Another favorite shape is a close-fit-
ting, sleeveless kind of jacket, usaally
trimmed with beads and lace, the
sleeves being either of lace or some
light material, full, long and richly
trimmed.
In the he of millinery there is
choice enough to please the most fastid.
jous. Some bonnets are merely sprays
of jet with a few flowers, others of a
larger size have the large, new Empire
bow or a fairy-combination of gold and
jet. Most of the hats are large and of
ecoming shape, in the finest faney
straws and erinoline. Bows of ribbon
and drapings of lace and gauze are now
held by the long ornamental pins that
for a time d'sappeared from the sight
of the fashionable world. They are
made of silver, gilt, steel or jet and
many have jeweled heads sumilar to the
marquis rings that served to hold folds
in place.
White and yellow are charmingly
combined upon many of the Summer
bats and bonnets, and the narcissus
and yellow honeysuckle are favored
blossoms. Pale blue and purple 1s a
new combination of color. This idea
was carried out in the trimming of a
black straw hat; forget-me-nots and
pansies were the flowers chosen.
Bonnets of lace have ties and loops
of black velvet ribbon. The edge may
be finished with jet cabochons and the
delicate flowers are placed at the back.
Elderly ladies wear black lace bonnets
with lace strings loosely bowed or sim-
ply knotted in front. Hats and bon-
nets have seldom been prettier than at
the present time. The delicate shades
of soft materials used for millinery pur-
poses, combined with the wonderfully
skilful imitation of all kinds of flowers,
makes it possible for those who have
an eye for color to produce the most
delightful effects.
Waist belts and bands of all kinds
are much worn; the broad embroider-
ed waistbands are the prettiest and the
embroidery should correspond with
that of the yoke, collar and eunffs. On
some of the bhandsomest Summer
dresses are seen the corselet effect; it is
almost universally becoming, tending
as 1t does to diminish the apparen’ size
of the waist. It is usoally seen braided
in the Russian style in rows running
round the figure. It is sometimes used |
in connection with the bretelle effect, |
which is also seen in lace and muslin. |
Soft leather, velvet, canvas, passe. |
menterie and gold and silver are em-
loyed, in different varieties, for belts,
‘here are Husein leather bands clasped |
with the owner's monogram in silver;
slender, flexib'e chains belts of
gold, and, perhaps daintier than all
the others, marrow black velvet belts
scecentinating the slenderness of the
waist, and clasped with «ld buckles of
paste or silver,
The popular fancy for a finish at the
throat of dresses, especially if the neck
be trimmed with lace, is two stick-pins
from two to three inches long with
jeweled heads, crossed Siagounlly.
A
Bn
.
No. 1062. Monxiye Jacker, Light
blue cashmere embroidered in point
russe stitch, with old gold and white
silk, is used for this garment,
Both back and front are gathered at
i
|
and faille ribbon, It is composed of a
jacket bodice with the fronts closed in
the middle aud chest darts. A blouse
of lace covers the fronts with a coquille
of lace an | knots of ribbon at the neck.
A pelerine of peau de soie opens on
the fronts, held by the seam of the
back.
A flounce of lace finishes the bottom
of the sleeves and the bottom of the
jacket; this flonnce is headed with a
narrow band of jet passementerie which
descends in bretelles upon the seams
of the back. A deign of passemen-
terie ornaments the centre of the back;
sementerie designs finish the bretelies.
o, 1C68, rroXT YIEW,
the nek, and held at the waist line by
with long ends. The right front lads
over the left side and is finished with a |
broad feather stitched hem.
holes
with bands of point russe embroidery,
mented with pearls is placed within a
Medici collar of passementerie,
bends are of the sams embroidery.
The bottorn of the jacket is finished
with 8 deep hem, above which is a row
of feather-stitehivg.
No. 1068 Hovae Gowx,
house gown is made of flopred manve |
challi and trimmed with aubergine |
silk. Three ruffles of the silk border
the frout of the skirt, and one extends |
up either side of the back. Similar |
ruffles trim the neck and arm-holes of |
the bodice which is pointed in front
and ontlined wth a belt of the silk.
The bodice is grthered slightly at the
waist-line in the back: the left front is
plain while the right front 1s pleated
and crosses from left shoulder to the
right side of the centre point where it
is fastened by a rosotie of silk. The me-
dium high shoulder sleeves are fasten
ed on the inner arm seam by a row of
buttons.
Sommer Waar. —The model No.
1064, shows an elegant wrap in black
sau de soie, bengaline, or royal silk
trimmed with black Venetian jh jot
This pretty |
:
ov. 1065. Bopicr Ganxrrone,
garniture consisting of collar,
menterie and gold cord.
From the design, in front of the ool-
lar and the girdle, depends a fringe of
colored eabochons,
No. 1067. Mooxraix Sor. —The ma
terial here nsed is a tweed of wood
brown and green, the skirt perfectly
plain and reaching only half way to the
The coat has loose fronts and a |
collar faced with tan colored |
cloth. 1t is worn over a blouse of tun. |
Tan leather leggings and brown
derby, complete the neat costume,
ancle.
shawl
No. 1063,
Cavmpric Samy Waser. —The
model for a shirt waist, shown in No.
1064, is made of dotted cambrie. It is
fitted by two side forms and has a tuck-
ed back and front, the back being fin-
ished with a yoke. It is closed in the
centre of the front, by buttons and
bu'ton-holes under a fal e box-pleat
stitched at the edge of the right front.
Flat, pointed collar and full slecves
gathered into broad cuffs, A belt of
the material stiffened with canvas and
having pointed ends is crossed at the
centre of the waist line in front A
bias cravat of the same material is at-
tached under the collar and tied in a
satlor knot with loose flowing ends,
No. 1068. Six Smirr Warer. —This
pretty waist is made of striped wash
ing silk. It consists of a Pe side
backs and fronts. The fronts are
fulness being laid in pleate at the
waist-line: the fronts are also slightly
gathered at the neck, while the back is
gathered at the waist-line. The belt
crossed 1n front is male of the mater
ial and stiffened with canvas. Straight
collar with turned over points; full
shoulder sleeves rather open at the
wrists. The waist is closed in front by
buttons and batton-holes.
:
No. 1070.
No, 1070 Danss ron 4 Gun Foon
reex Ymans Op. This pretty eos
tome is made of tan-colored ribbed
wool goods with trimmings of bronze
valvet and beige colored surah. The
skirt is formed of large pleats with
plain sides and is ornamented just
above the hem with several rows of
stitching. The bodice is finished with
a pointed belt in velvet and plain
basques, open in the centre, in the back.
The front of the bodice is open on a
uffed waisteoat of surah; the figured
onts are of velvet and ornamented
lar in the back. The straight collar of
velvet 1s open in front on a centre of
surah. A knot of bronze colored rib
bon is placed at the left wide of the
waist line. Gathered sleeves of wool
with wristbands of velvet.
Mua, Hunex H, Backus the newly
elected Jr enident of the Brooklyn Wo-
men's Club, is a graduate of Vassar
Coll one of ite and the
‘e of President of P Insti-
tute, of Brookiyn. She is a woman of
broad enlture and dignified %
Sond Suliure void dignified banting.
» leader.
A CrxorexaT: man is teaching a horse
sing Haven't we one-horse singers
already?
Wax Bryant, the poet, was in Mexi.
dy har Una nrodaston she wi o
a : in New York
‘aod, they all go to
*
FANCY WORK.
It is rather late to think about ham- |
moek eushions, yet as the old saving
g es, “betier late than never:” and us
the season has been 8) eold they have,
as yet, hardly been needed. Cush ons
of ull sorts never come amiss anil the
more one can have, toe greater comfort
he will have as a pichie will alwavs be |
found for them, :
Very pretty hammock cushions are
made square, filled with curled hair or |
pioe needles and covered with dark |
blue demin which is printed witha!
sprawling design in white, The
is finished with a blue cord or not, as
one fan tes. As the demin is so dark |
in color, a cover is not necessary for it
will not soil easily, but should one be
edge
As the pattern shows
be made to fit the cushion rather snng- |
ly. The pattern is guite simple the
number of stitches cast on depending
on the width of the cushion.
Ist row.—Knit across plain.
row-* on- plain, make two stite es,
in fignre ¢, we have a box for hold
ing bonbone, A gold edge frames the
#ides, whieh are zcvered with postage
stamps of all sorts. To make a pretiy
be taken in
f the stamps; small
if
aud there the stamps add
greatly to the beauty of the box.
The flat pattern gives scale of size
covtimetres, 2; io the ineh) and
shows how the top and bottom are eu
and placed. A pick on one top allows
for the insertion of the opposite point,
To pet the right shape the out pread
Bony
creases on the inside,
a and 4 show very simple but prett
designs for embroidering children’s
dres-es, aprons, ete,
The skirt lifter shown in e, which is
a very useful articls in the present time
of long skirts, conmsts of a silsen eord
which encircles the waist, one end pass.
p at the other end;
attached to this end is a clamp of oxi-
the disks of which are
as not to
faced with India-rubber so
1
mike two, repeal from star. 8rd row
fine seam, make two, seam to to-
gether seam three, seam two together,
make two, seam three, repeat from *,
4th row.-Three plain, make
| narrow, one plain, narrow,
| plain, repeat from *. Oth row.
i three * make two, seam three together,
make two, seam seven, repeat from
i 6th row. — Three plain, * narrow, make
two, one plain, make two, narrow, five
plain, repeat from *. Hepeat from
third to fifth rows inclusive; then from
second to sixth row inclusive, Repeat
from second row. One mide should be
left open and tied together with scarlet
ribbons
Large sofa cushions are very com
fortable staffed with down and covered
with embroidered black or eolored
satin, or with Turkey twill, worked in
scattered small designs with coarse
cream flourishing thread. The width
of the satin is that of the cushion, and
the length averages from three quar-
ters of a yard to one and a fourth yards
A frill of folded silk about four inches
deep is placed all around the edge. If
a cushion is worked ins contrasting
color to the foundation, the frill should
match the embroidery. Black satin
with light terra-cotta and olive green
with a darker shade, are favorite
colors,
Pretty traveling cushions are now
made oblong in shape with a leather
handle on one edge which serves as a
convenience in carrying them. They
are covered with plush, linen or dar
| colored chamois skin, with the words
{ “An Revoir,” “Bon Voyage,” *Lebe
{ Wohl,” ete., embroidered on one side.
! But the most convenient of all is a
cushion made like a ball, in eight quar.
ters, and stuffed with down. The cover,
also cut in quarters, may be very ela-
borate—of silk, plash, or brocade,
ete. ; on one end 1s placed a knot of
ribbon, and on the other long loops of
the same ribbon which one can throw
over the arm in order to carry it. The
most comfortable and useful cover,
however, is one of wool, crocheted (in
quarters) in different colors and set to-
gether with a crocheting of prettily
contrasting embroiaery silk,
Ena.
Figure a, shows a fancy kite ar-
ranged as a holder for photographs.
The earaboard foundation must have
an extra piece for the point, to be sub-
plain, while the remainder is covered
with pleated satin. Two bands for the
| pictures must be tightly secured across
the middle; they may be made of plain
material either painted or embroider-
ed, or even of pieces of fancy braid
The pattern gives soale of size. Rib-
bon rosettes and knotted cord form the
trimming and tail of the kite. .
Figure b, is an embroidered design,
which may be used for the eross-bande
which hold the pictures,
}
The crochet edging illustrated in d,
worked with fine crochet thread.
{ First make a foundation chain of the
| length required, and work as follows:
1st row-—* A double erochet on the
next, 4 times 2 chain and a double on
the following 3d, then 11 chain, elose
{the last six into a loop with a shp
11 single, crochet around the
{loop and a sliy on the first win-
gle crochet arouna the loop and »
‘slip on the first single, 5 cham, a
mangle on the preceding double, skip 2
foundation stitches, sud repeat from *,
2d row —* 6 chain, a slip on the fol-
lowing 3d double, 4 chain, aslip on the
2d of the 6 chain, 1 chain, 4 double,
separated by 1 chain, on the 2d4-66h of
the 11 single, 1 chain, 2 double separs-
ted by 3 ciain on the next stiteh, 1
chain, 4 double separated by 1 chain
on the following 4; repeat from *,
3d row.—* A single round the chain
before the 1st double, 4 times a le
round the chain, after the next double
and 4 chain between, 2single separated
| by 4 chain around the 3 chain st the
middle, 4 times 4 chain and a smgle
| after the next double, then a Single
around the chain after the next dom
| a single on the following stitch, om
| which there is already a slip stitch; re-
| peat from *,
118
3
a
Crocurrep Evar.— This narrow edge
crocheted with pointed linen brmd is
so simple that it requires no explaaa
tion. It is suitable for trimming chil-
| dren's dresses, aprons, skirts, ete.
§ -
| It is reported that through the lick
telescopethe discovery La: been made
that one of the moons of Jupiter has
a little moon of its own revolving
| around It,
One dollar a minute is the charge
for using the new telephone line be-
tween London and Paris. Distance
about 280 miles. Forty cents a minute
is the price betwern New York and
Washington, about 240 miles,
~The four most common causes of
boiler explosions are xternal corrosion,
overheating, overpressure and weak-
pess of flue, Tie four least common
causes are abeence of safety valve, bad
Tmateral, weak manhole and depoist.