CURRENT FASHIONS,
How many of our readers know, and
carefully observe, the three general
rules which shonld govern all good
dressing: lst. That the dress should
pot contradict the natural lives « f the
body. 2d. The proportions of the
dress should obey the projortions of
the body. 3d. The dress should rea-
sonably express the character of the
wearer, Were these three rules eare-
fully borne in mind by ladies wien
gelecting new cost mes, we are quite
pure that there would be less of that
oulre style of dressing, which is ro dia-
metrically opposed to all the rules of
good taste,
The lo g continued cool weather and
the sudden changes from exir. me heat
to cold, should covinece every lady of
the necessity and comfort of having
two or more costnmes of light weight
wool gods in ber wardrobe. Among
the woolen materials vow in vogue for
out-door wear are the usual light-
weight cheviots, tweeds, and faced
glo hs. Mixed and clouded effects pre-
vail in tiese and the general tone 1s
quiet, thongh many of the new fabrics
have dots and flecks of bright coloring,
cunningly interwoven through the more
subdued tints. Camels hair of light
texture is used for bandsomer co tum: s,
and the leading colo's in all costumes
are gray, in varioustoues, beige, suede,
and mastic,
The sty'e of making these plain wool
gowns shows a barrow skirt of the
sheath pattern, with the fullness mass-
ed in the centre of the back in pleats
or close gathers. Very little drapery
is used, but now and then ove sees the
tiny hip paniers so becoming to tall,
slender figures. The bottom of the
gkirt is finished with the hem tirned
up on the right side, or a bias piece
sewn on to simulate a hem and pijed at
the top with silk to match; sometimes
two or three narrow rnilles of silk,
harmonizing with the color of the dress
material, are placed across the front of
the skirt nb are close at the
wrists, while the top is softly draped
and not so full as formerly; rows of
assemepterie, a8 band of velvet, or
fin of lace, usually trim the wrist
Bhawl collers, rolled almost to the
waist, coat collars with notched lapels,
and the high, straight collar are all
worn, but the latter especially for
sir ot gowns
For home wear, a very pretty mater-
ial is that imported by tailors for Sam-
mer gowns at the rea-shore or moun-
tains. This material is home spun of
pele wool, and woven as thin and as
ight as grenadipe, in very narrow
slripes of white and delicate colors
These dresses are made up with a
silk lining throu :hout, belted bodies,
full sleeves, and a straight full skirt,
Collar, cuffs, and a belt of surah silk,
fo match the color of the stripe, are
the only trimmings.
A large variety of fabrics are to be
found in the market for outing suits;
some of the new tlannelettes are ribbed
in imitation of the Bedford cords,
while there are cotton surabs wh ch re-
semble the dainty wash silks snd a
bo-t of others thst divide fuvor with
the standard prints and ali-wool flan-
nels. The latest outing dresses are of
navy blue serge with theskirtattached to
a short corselet or bodice, which is forn-
ished with susp: nders that piss over the
shoulders above a shirt waist of wash-
able silk. These suspenders are straps
of serge ont in one with the front and
back of the little bodice which is mere-
ly a girdle or Swiss bell. The skirt
is without lining and has a bm
simulated at the foot, with a cord of
pale b'ue. The milk shirt has a shal ow
yoke, a box pleat down the front, and
a turned over collar to be worn with »
necktie; the sleeves are full and straight
with turned back cuffs With thas is
worn a jacket of blue serge fastened
across the bust with a buttoned strap,
and having a belt with lapped ends in
the back. Other outing dresses have
the laced belt or bodice which was so
popular last year.
or cool days in summer natty little
jackets are displayed, the most elabor-
ate of which are made in reefer style
with the deep sailor collar trimmed with
wetal galloon, the same trimming on
the pockets, while frogs, made to m «teh
fasten the square fronts, Less showy
are the donb e breasted coats of nav
blue diagonal or striped cloth with gilt
or sver buttons and t ny anchors.
For dressy black costumes, gowns of
eundine rival thoss of lace so long
in favor. The square meshed plain
grenadine is most used; those having
satin seripen and small broche figures
are very handsome and are made over
a lining of silk or matin surah with
trimmings of lace and jet. Many plain
enadines are made over colered silk
in ngs, while those made over black
silk have vests of white guipure lace
over gold net; others have sleeves of
black net dotted with cabochons and all
are elaborately trimmed with lace or
jet. As lace is to be so much used this
senson it is well to know that for a
trifling expense it can be made water
proof and thus not lose its freshness
when at the seaside or in the mountains,
Laoes rendered water-proof will not fade
end faded laces can be restored by this
process to their original beanty.
Net gowns are really mo.e dressy
than grenadine, and have lace flounces
festooned here and there with bows of
gold ribbon or braid about an inch in
width. The newest skirts are draped
in tiny paniers with bows or lovers
knots, which are also on top of tie
sleeves, back of the bodice, at the
throat, bust and below the waist-line,
where they hola a belt or Cleopatra
girdle of wider ribbon. The bodice
Las the lace around the edge and « full
front over a close- fitting a, The
sleeves have Ince at the wrists, are very
high and are ornamented with bows
Thus rococo style of trimming is now
in great favor, especially { r summer
dresses. Hand work is most esteemed
and beautiful evening dresses are very
artistically embroidered by hand. One
of pure white Siecilienne Tately shown
bra leading house was embroidered
with s bord r of wreoths of flowers aud
bows. The latter were done in plain
and polished silver cord, the flowers in
pig stitch with white and silver
At last we have found a useful dress
holder which consists of two metal
plate s fastened together by a strong
No. 1044
spring; the dress is inserted brtween
the plates, an India-rubber cover on
ove prevents the dress from sl ppiug
out. A ribbon cord or chain is put
through the ring at the top, and can be
twisted over the wearer's arm or
fastened round the waist,
It is said 1hat the old fashion of seal-
ing our letters with wax is to be re.
vived, aud that the coming season will
prove the truth of the rerort. This
preity fashion has lain too long in ¢is-
use and will meet with geveral favor
because it gives our letters a distinct.
ive mark which nothing else does. Those
possessing ancient seals will be very for-
tunate, because old heirlooms are
imitation of
A. RE
seals are being made in
those of ancieut date,
ee —-
Dixxer Toruerres ror Youro Gers,
~—No. 1044. Two s'ade« of China
crepe, one embroidered, palerose color,
the other o'd pale bine are emplo: ed
in making this costume, together with
a simulated round yoke of gold eord
The gown, in princesse shape, has the
No. 1045.
front of embroidered crepe, the fnl-
ness held at the waist lve by a series
of pleats. Tue left fount 18s in b ue
crepe draped hike a fichu and held on
the right side by a knot of gold colored
r bbon., The petof the gold cord form-
ing the yoli e 18 placed over the dress
material; the back of the bodice is of
blue crepe and loced with gold cord in
the centre. Medici ouliar in blue wel.
vet and Ligh shoulder sleeves of blae
crepe. Maize-colored kid gloves,
No. 1045. The second toilette is of
bine faille and black Chanti'ly lace.
The hodice is open on a wsistooat of
Chantilly which is placed on the lin ngs
of the front. A deep lace flonnece in the
form of a basque j ins the bottom of
the waist. An embroidery in fine gold
| braid ornaments the fronts and back of
| the bodiie. Ful sleeves of fa lle reach
to the elbow and then are finished with
| deep wristbands draped with lsoe.
| Straight collar draped with lsce and
| sastened on the side with a koot of the
{ fame. Plain skirt of blue sulle. Light
| gray gloves,
No. 18, Visrrixe Costume. — Dress
{ of gray crepon cloth with skirt panel,
plastron, ¢ lar, rever and wristbands
of white cloth braided in gold silk, The
back of the dress skirt is pleated, the
front out in o @ piece withthe right
front of the bodice and draped on the
eft ap. The left front of the bodice
is gathered on the shoulder and at the
point where it is crossed br the right
front wuish is bordere? oy a graduated
rever of white olzin braided in gold
silk. The back of the bodice is eut
with a long plain la que. Sleoves of
gray cloth arrsoged in puffs and fin-
ished with wristbands of embroidered
white cloth.
Hat of gray lace straw trimmed with
gray feath-rs
an 1048. Pamasors axp Brir.—a
e open parasol has for ites upper t
crepe de Chine painted ar
of pinks; the flounce of point lace and
the stick of polished natural wood
around which is knotted a band of rib-
bon finished with silk tassels
b. The second parasol has a handle
of white lacquered wood mounted with
silver trimmings and ornamented with
a rosette of baby ribbon. The cover is
of white silk with a heavily embroider.
ed gauge border; a rosette of baby
ribbon ornaments the top of the ferale,
e. The lawn tennis belt is of striped
satin ribbon with silver Luckle and
fastenings,
Ir you wish to keep the pickles in
your glass fruit jars rub the insides of
the metal cap with lard, The cans with
caps | ned with porcelain are much to
be preferred for all purposes.
Oxz teaspoonful of ammonia to a
teacupful of water will clean goli or
silver jewelry; a few drops of olear
aqua ammonia rubbed on the under
side of diamonds will clean them imme-
diately, making them very brilliant.
Graor Gus mywoon (Mrs. Lippincott)
is about to leave New York and make
Washington her snent residence,
She is afflicted with a estarset which
cannes jal blindness, only fo be
relieved by an operation.
AMONG THE SRAILS.
BY FDWARD
How fresh everything appears after
last night's rain! The white chalk-dust
huss been washed off the leaves, and
they now appear in their own color.
The valley stream has become a tor-
rent. The m wses and lichens ou the
vid stone w. ll bave plumped up again,
and look quite fresh. Ah! and se:
what else the rain has revived. All
over the mosses there are tiny snails,
of strange form, crawling. look at
them! here are some with shells but
httle bigger than the head of a pin;
and here are many of the dark brown,
almost black shell which, from its
n.auy fine ridges and groove, they call
tie Wiinkled snail (fig. 2). Glance at
it throngh my pocket lens, and you
will see that the snail's little head 1s
adorned with two pairs of horns or
feelers, the npper pair much longer
than the lower.
Bat if you are interested in snail life,
you must look elsewhere for a variety
of specimens. Those are only small
kinds that hanot the tops of walls. At
tue foot of the wall here, amoag the
nettles, we may find several which ap-
1 ear to you of the more correct shape
for snails. This one of a dark reddish-
brown color is very common in such
places, and may be ealled the Hadly
snail. Here, too, el mbing up the
wall is the d-licate little Bilky s aij,
so-called because, as you see, its shell
is thickly covered with lon : silky hairs
The shell is very thin, sad the snail 1s
very shy.
Over among the coarse-growing net.
ties by the d toh there are many of the
somewhat dirtily colored saals (5,
much Ia ger than any we have met this
morning, and of a mottled appesrance.
But up the hillside is the pisces to find
soails. Snails are more plenti‘al on a
chalky soil than elsewhere, and all up
the slopes we are likely to find several
kinde. This is the path that lead: up
to the downs, and bere, st the foot of
the fence, we find the common dirty-
looking BSprinkled or Garden soail
i4) mn abun iance, as we do almost
everywhere. Bome of the specimens,
however, are cleaner-looking than
others, their colors brigher, and with
something of a gloss upon them. Then
the shell looks almost handsome.
This snail is a grest nuisance in the
garden ; he has such a ravenous a»
petite. After a good shower of rain he
slides out from his retreat and goes in
search of the tenderest leaves he can
find in the whole garden. When he
has found those that he thinks are suffi.
ciently tender for his digestion he sets
his fourteen thousand teeth to wrk,
and in the morning the gardener vainly
looks for hi« choloe Ic
* Fourteen thousand teeth! Barely
Jou are joking with me. No oreature
got a month so large as to contain
so many teeth as that!”
No, my friend, I am not joking ; and
were we at home with the microscope 1
conld show you that I am stating the
most absolute facts, and could let you
count them yourself. Perhaps you
would shrink from such a task, but it
is easily accomplished. Strange to say,
the snail's t are not placed along ite
jaws as in most ammals, but on ifs
tongue! Fancy that your teeth were
all fastened to your tongue, and that
your upper lip was somewhat boroy,
vo that you could press Jou teeth
i and so bite your food! Sup-
pose also that your teeth were all
shaped like hooks, and that you had to
lick your food, and that every time you
licked so your teeth and ent
away pieces of fool for you to swallow,
Then, further, try to imegine your
tongue to be drawn out to au enormo a
length and covered with these hook.
like tecth; then you woull get some
jen of what a soail’s eating machinery
©.
““ Yes, but whilst
ing me this 1 bave n wateh
sup L 1 have found out his mouth, and
he often opens it, but | have not seen
him put out hi« ”
STEP.
Ee
ing; and this movemen*, as he presses
his open mo th against those teuder
seedlings, canses the points of his hook
teeth to catch and ter at the soft
green-meat, aod bring little particles
sway. Now the teeth are always ar-
ranged m a regular manner on this long
toogue, but the order of srrangement
diflers somewhat in d ferent species,
In this SBprinkled snail they are placed
in rows across the width of the tongue,
Commencing on one »ide we conot tfty-
two teeth, then the e ~omes a little gap,
then one tooth, snother gap, and fifty-
two teeth beyond it. This makes 105
teeth io ea bh row ; and when I tell you
there are as many as 185 rows, it won't
tke you long to find that when I said
the creature had 14 000 teeth, I was
under-stating the feet, and that it has
175 to spare over and above that num-
ber.
All ths *ime we have been ascending
the till-side without noticing rnything,
and here we are oa the chalky footpath,
with the pretty yellow rock-rose in
shandance on each side, and swarms of
jurnet-moths clinging to the grasses
or flitting around. Look, now, at that
violet-tinted snail (7) li e a winkle
erawling «long. Do not touch it fora
moment, bat watch it. Do y u see
bere, on the h onder part of hisb.dy,
just under the shell, there is a flat,
shelly plate, almost round.
Watch, now, when I put my finger
in front of him. Oh! why he ha: gone
in at once. Yes and slammed the
door in our faces! Not a very polite
snail, is be? Now you see the use of
that she ly plate he carried on his tail
—it is his street-door. There is no
bandle to it; nothing by which we can
open it; and if there were a knocker he
wonld take no notice of «ur knookirg.
It is plain that be thinks we mean no
good to him.
“And what is the name of this snail?”
He has no English name; in fact,
few of them have; but his Latin name
signifies that his is the elegant shell
with the round mouth—Cyeclostoma
elegans,
“*But all snails bave not got doors to
their shells, have they?”
Oh, vo; very few of the snails have,
This is the only one of our land snails
that has it: but several of the fresh.
water sproies have a hornv plate which
serves asimilar purpose. The Wrinkled
snail, to which I first called your atten
iton, bas another contrivance for clos-
ing ite shell. By the way, here ir a
larger relative (Ag. 8) elimbing up the
trunk of this grand old beeoh. Poside
the mouth of such sheiis there are
several peculiar ridges, which partially
obstruct the way in; but when the sna |
draws himself right inside, there springs
out from the oolomn which runs
through the centre of the shell an elas
tio partition which effectually shats out
intraders. ‘I'bis sosil, you will notice,
although similar in form to the
Wrinkied snail, is much larger, is per.
feotly smooth, of a co or, and
very much resembling the scales of the
beech-buds, which are plentifal under
the trees here,
The beech tree is a favorite place for
snails, and in thas distriot, at least, you
may frequently nnd qui 8 variety o
soail life on one beeoh-tree. Look at
this very much flattened kind (6, with
s sharp ridge or keel all round him.
Linnmus, the great Swedish naturalist,
fancied that this snail had the power of
boring into rocks and sto #0 he
named it the idary sosil; It is
the largest of all British soails (fig. 8),
and is variously known as the ’
snail or Roman snail. This is the kind
that is sold oa the Continent for eating
pon and, for the matter of that,
n this country also. I bave never
tried snails as food, but I am sure, if 1
do, to commence with this one—it looks
80 Dandsothe and Glows, You were sur-
at the num of teeth POSROSEOC i
y de garden snail —this one has over"
hese amber, or oream - colored
sbals, with the Junie of dark-brown
hy ver 3
OW a
i
4
sii
£2
THE JUDGMENT.
Prom the Independent,
Thou hast done svi]
nd given phage to the devil
(#4 80 crunn ngly thon soncesiest
The thing which thou feelest,
Thatn & eo e-pieth it,
Eatan himse f denieth it,
Go where it chinoseth the:
There is nove (hat seenseth thee :
Kelther foe nor lover
Will the wrong uncover:
The orids reath ra s th thes,
And thy own past pralseth thse,
Yet know thou this:
At quick of thy being
8 an eye, all eelng,
The snake's wit evadeth not,
The charm~4 lip pris adeth not
Bo thorough'y |. despiseth
The thing hy band pi izeth,
The' the sun were thy clothing,
It should ecun 1hes [or nothing,
Thine own eye divineth thee
Thine own » ul grraigneth thes ;
God him elf cannot shirive
Til that judge Lagive th»
Dogs Read GOODALE.
hive
Many pretty an ornamental trifies
snitable not oulv for home decoration,
and for bazars, but also those for real
vee can be made with an expenditure
of little money and less money if one
only knows “which to choose.” The
pretty and useful shopping bag illas
trated in No. 1, is made of gray linen
canvas and ornamented with eross-
stitch designs worked in one or two
shades of wash cotton, If one desires
a finer and more expensive bag, em-
broidery silk can be used instead of
working cotton, and the bag itself
made of silk or plusu, A strip of linen
1 yard and 20 inches long and 16 inches
and a half wide, is required for this
bag. A pocket 16 inches deep is made
by tar ing over oue end and sewing
together the side edges, and the pointe
ed flap ix made by sewing over the
corners of the second end.
a]
Rn
The cross-stitch pattern is to be work.
ed with eotton in one or several colors,
1lins, a shows in the proper s ze one of
the pompons cro beted with coarse
ootton. For each small ball 4 ch., are
cast on and in the first of these 12 T.
are worked; the cotton is then cut off
prety long, put through the tops of
the T. with 8 needle, and this drawn
tight together after a small thread rell
has been slipped in, ont of the end are
then erocheied alternately 4 or 5 Ch,
and one picot (4 Ch. 1 8. back into the
1st Ch.), 1-3 picots being mado sccord-
ing to the different lengths of the
Siaads {aoe oh a). i At the lower
of the sue pons are
esught into a larger ball, but at the
points of the flap 6-8. The large ball
is made much in the same way as the
smaller ones, yet at first the cotton is
to be taken double and a larger thread
roll slipped mn; in the m ddie of this
ball all the threads on the pompon are
united and fastened. The th which
fastens together the T. fastens at the
same time the whole pompons on the