-. Pt
OUR PARIS LETTER.
In nearly ail the spring costumes, the
collar seems to play a most important
part and receives, so to speak, “all the
honors.” Until some other novelty
springs up, every woman will be en-
trapced with this collar and will not be
satisfied till she sees it reproduced, in
all its glory, on her own spring oos-
tume. It must be confessed that it is
very comfortable, and has the great ad-
vantage of resting somewhat upon the
jacket,
A large establishment here in Paris,
well known to many of our readers has
designed some most beautiful garments
for the coming season, which combin-
ing the best points of the visit: and the
jacket are for this reason, extremely
elegant. One has the body of
the jacket in pleated lace
upon which falls a shower of fine
pearls; at the shoulder a Grecian
sleeve in colored velvet or of fancy
silk with an application of jet, fine as
lace, in open pattern, and finished with
a magnificent fringe. There 18 also a
pretty, little eape, reaching scarcely to
the waist, of cloth, called Japanese
rose. ‘This cape is cut gnite straight
like a band, without form and without
darts; adjusted around the neck by a
series of gathers and is then joined to
another band, equally straicht, of vel
vet folded double. The ton of the
band spread in pleats forming a Medi-
¢i collar, As the bottom of the eape, is
placed trio of eloth and thas i
Orname with inl gold
broidery on brown |
ed i
balls, pearl
mingled all the ¢
embroidery and tl
i heca
in all styles, will be in
this spring and summer,
they ire made of i
trim
A most
shown by Felix
with the skirt
bias in the back. we foot
skirt was a rather « Pp flonnce oO
Grecian tut e held in place under
of black bho: Fhe COTSALE
trimmed in front with a pleated plas-
tron of dark gray silk.
Grecian talle formed the collar and also
edged, in shell shape, the plastron.
ited
haan
¥
3
sand silk threads in which ar
i018 of the cloth, t
18 velvet,
. 3 1
great den
iy
i
espedia
itarial
why y
yieh m
1st
- »
5
d en
y
’
{
n
rl
¢
5
of jet cabochons sparkling beneath the
tulle.
It is quite impossible to imagine the
amount of cabochons of all sizes
forms which are being used upon
dresses, wraps and hats. They are like
the grains of sand upon the sea shore,
innumerable. Costumes of eloth are
seen whose skirts are ornamented with
five cirenlar rows of cabochons at the
bottom; plastrons and sleeves are en-
tirely covered with them
belts, collars, ete.
It can be
have become a passion with both mo
istes and their patrons. The ame
true of pearls upon the hats
Parisians outvie the women o
Orient; never has there been seen
much fringe, embroidery of fine pearls
and net,
Under the pretext of the Cleopatrs
-
js
SO
their beads little
with pearis, the
rounded with
twisted frin
shape, in
IS much mu
whieh,
nine ten
are turned up in turban
pite of this infatuation, jot
re elegant: there is in these
sparkling so sharply, a
the
pearl cannot compete,
brims of
or {
rei
black stones,
mystery and & poetry with which
Lae
or migrettes which sparkle like
stars. For the theatre, espocially,
there are no hats quite so preéty or
appropriate,
For street wear, charming toques of
a style quite new, but not all black,
are made; they are composed of three
bands of jet, of which one in the back
surronnds the chignon in the Grecian
fashion, as the hair is now usually
worn. These three bands are mounted
on coarse white talle embroidered with
black rn In front is placed a little
knot of black velvet ribbon: in the
back, near the hair, a camellia, a clus
er of gardemiss, taberoses, eto.,
a Cespagnole.”
r
are now very fashion-
siiks, tniles,
with theso
A robe
Oorna~
These designs
3 §
{ ards
fon itifnl
bet
Ii ented
0 dear to Satarn.
of grav periwinkle fouslard
mented with long oval, interlaced,
bisck and ringe. This robe is
made in redingote form snd opeus on
Ril
F108
iB
while
No trimming on the front, only a seam
adijnsts the waist and a {ull of oid lace
; The sleoves are full
the shoulders and close at the
wrists. We must not forget a little
embroidery of white pearls, not more
three-fourths of an inch wide,
which ornaments the lower edge of the
apron of bengaline; with this is worn a
round hat of black lace, made sceord-
ing to model, and placed like a delicate
upon head. Fine gives
forms a plastron.
the wire
On the crown 1s a light
lace confined
and in the bac
over this
irapery of
bands of jet,
————
Taearne Har.—Thischarn
I8 COINS d Fo WTreal
thont foliage afd a erown of
nd flne pearls. In the back
roses withoat folinge:
front a knot of green velvet ribbon and
aigreties witli Sirings
of green vels
iAatLon
No, 9 oy
No. ¥ 3
» ote i
i 1
wi i ¥ 0
1.3 3
FOIA aoe §
it
ck feathers
ot
LFOWSN ANI
illustrate
ine serge
tnche which on
pd forms tref
mpdation skirt is fs
Iross material
g about
The i:
de h x twels
ig nearly to the top.
over skirt is cut without fnloess at the
top, In front, being fitted to the form
by small darts; the fulness of the back
18 laid in pleats. The skirt is slashed on
the lef. side and ornamented with two
rows of braid which forms trefoils at
the corners and the top of the slash.
The bodies is plain with two small
points in front and is ornamented with
the high collar and cuffs of the sleeves
with braid
No. 976, is a spring ulster suitable
for stormy weather or for traveling.
It is made of hight brown cross-barred
tweed and has a movable cape with
hood which may form a separate short
wrap by itself. It has a close-fitting
back and half loose front with loose
i
i
The edges of the elosk
nished with rows of stitching and
; froots are closed with oxidized
{ ;ilver buttons,
No, 077, gives
Cape,
| coat sleeves,
are fi
i the
8 back view of th
PERSONAL.
Honraxp's “Life
has just appeared.
Caxox
1s
Land
Jaymes Payer, the glia
i Pu
DALY possesses
ut libraries of dr
has joined the staff «
one of the
AIatic wi
u Hoos
soon return ¢
liter ry work.
Cran AL
HEX -s¢Venin year, is
bundred and
a sory of the tin
Miss Lvoy M. Satatos,
| History at Vassar, recently delivered
i an address at Cornell University, U
LOTT Yoxar, in
writing |
book. It
1 of
first is to
Vong ERIN,
(CY WORK.
As the warm weather approaches, we
begin to tire of the heavy faney work
which has occupied our spare moments
during the winter months, and hasten
to discard it for the lighter and more
tasieiul drawn work which is now so
much in demand. If properly exe-
cuted this punto tirato is extremely
durable; it wastes perfectly, ns there
are no colors to fade or beeome rhabby
looking, which 18 another point in its
favor, 4
The new designs are very elaborate,
but are easily copied by anyone who
knows how to do this week. The best
patterns are worked with white flax
thread, and of the same coarseness as
the material upon which they are em-
ployed.
Many persons think 1t a waste of
time to do this work when most of it
ean be bought at a very reasonable
rate, but we beg to differ on this point,
There are mavy odd minutes which
ean be utilized in such work, and the
labor of love required in thus decorat-
ing an article intended for a gins or for
the advancement of one’s home en-
hances its value threefold.
For beginners, the simple hem
stitch, nsually found on handkerchiefs,
should he the first work
The following illustration
how 0 begin,
may be
he same desi
i 3 only You n
oportion of Lh
must
finene
x thread
taken for the
inst remember
that the pr
on the needle
CORTBCLOSS OF
i
8 Of
Filo. 1
i
|
When you ean tie the knot easily and
quickly, you can take up a pattern
with a good prospect of success,
To propare your work for a narrow
pattern, esy an inch wide, yon must
draw out threads for that space and
| fusten each side with the stitehh shown
{in No. 2, sud when ready for the de-
sign should hive the appearance of
No. 8.
lemember that any unevenness of
threads will cause confusion and de-
stroy your design,
No. 4 illustrates some of the sim.
plest designs which are so plain as to
require no explanation,
HORSE NOTES,
Trixie ia with foal,
~James Elliott will campaign Alive
this year.
— A few fast moves have been made
by the horses at Morris Park.
AL Monmouth Park the horses are
doing weil aud going finely,
~ James Howe will start the horses af
the Buffalo ruuning meeting,
-M., ¥. Dwyer says he has no intense
tion of taking Potomac West this year.
~The annual meeting of the Belmont
Driving Club will be held on May 7.
—Mr. Easton's consignment of fillies
were shipped Lo England yesterday.
~The reported death of the brood
mare Thora proves to have been incors
rect,
~The personal effects of the late
Edwin Hart will be sold at auction op
May b.
—The trotling register question will
be settled at Chicago,
—Up todate 129 trainersand 74
Jockeys have applied for licenses from
the Board of Control.
~The Brous:iyn Jockey Club's Great
American stakes of $20,000 will soon
ir oy Fn
LA REAL Rat
al
quarter of a rd wide, on
i those patterns which
enlt to remember,
| You will find this sampler
value and aszistar
are the
great
LOL O
| self, but also to the many
| desire new patterns
ce,
{ the threads, as shown in No. 1.
will be found
i number, and yet have them
Few persons, even among those
jean do this work, know
i fdas to
3
who
bow mach it
the beauty of voth table and
i Napkins ornsmente in in
| always present a more fi
possess & dainty gr oe not seen in their
wmmed by Linen
eally improve
way
1 look and
}
:
' BT
Service.”
gaged in the work of the International
‘empe Congress, whose object is to
between ngtions,
Me. A. A. Low, the father of Presi.
assed his eightieth birthday.
ow hax given ¥20,000 to hia birthplace
Salem, Massachusetts—to be devoted
to the education of deserving boys.
Warr Warrsan's mother
Netherland descent, and his g
mother was a Quaker. The poet him.
self is said to show distinctly his Duteh
nnoestry.
of Sin" have already been exhausted,
and Messrs. Sonnenschein have a third
edition in the press. As most of our
readers are aware, the pen name “Lucas
Malet” conceals the indentity of Mrs,
Harrison, a danghter of Charles King-
sley.
EE. n——
WHEN THE BABY CAME.
Always in the house there was trouble and
contention,
Little sparks of feeling flashing into flame,
Nigns of irritation
So sure to make oocasion
For strife and tribulation -tiil the baby came,
All the evil sounds full of erael hate and rancor,
All the angry tumult nobody to blame!
All were hushed so sweetly,
Disappearing fleetly,
Or quieted comploteiy—whon the baby came.
Faces that had worn a gloomy veil of sadness,
H enris intent on seeking for fortune or for
AIH
Ones again were lightened,
Once again were brightened,
And their rapture heightened - when
baby came.
All affection’s windows opened to reesive it,
Pure and fresh from Heaven. and give it
earth ! ¥ hme. 4
Clasping and caressin
In AS of love, contexiing
That life had missed a blessing—till the baby
the
Homes that were Iu shadow felt the gentle
Smitlag, as If anxious thelr sesret to pro-
Grateful sor re swelling,
Of mirth and gad th tor ing:
ruled all Aweiling the
Hearte that bad been sundered by a tide of
FIGURE 11
{ border, and the upper sheet, at least,
should be thus ornamented,
Hand towels with olosely drawn
borders loose half their ungainly look,
(and in fact there is no article tipon
{ which it is placed but that seems to
| oguina, thereby, an added beauty.
f a fringe 1s desired, draw out three
| or four threads about two inches from
{depth of the fringe; then take up a
group of threads as shown in No. 2,
«
working, down tightly under tie point
of the needle towards the right, thus
tying a very firm knot.
At first this knot may be difficult to
make and appear very clumsy, but this
knot is the very essence, so to sposk,
of drawn work, and when yon can
make it quickly and easily you will be
mistress of this field of fancy work,
After you have gone round the dotly
with this stitch begin at the inside to
draw the threads of your fringe, that is
if you prefer to have a fringe instead
of a hem. By beginning at the inside
wo mean, draw the thread which is to
mark the upper limit of your fringe
first, and continue to work downward,
as by so doing your fringe will look
less crumpled.
MoxoGran —H. FP.
i monograms suitable for table or bed
linen
OREPE DE CHINE HANXDREROHIEPS.
Crepe pe Cmiwe Hanngenon mrs,
These ornamented handkerchiefs are
tints with borders of embroidered or
painted flowers,
————"
Dr, Fraxons Dickrusox, one of the
Board of Lady Managers of the World's
cago, She studied in Germany, after
having graduated from medical colleges
in this country, and is an authority
upon diseases of the eye.
Fravims Comunxrine Hrogexurrnons
a Bister of Mercy, has received the
peror, for saving a lady from drowning
at the Fak of het, owy life in the Gru
men o 6 palace ands af
Wilhelmshohe, yo
Tux first vote over orst in Texas by a
ted recently
woman was : there
Mrs. a oposi Foster, a suoooss-
agent in Ho
Close,
eness has caused him
he Suburban and
0s Das
i BARITOWS all Lhis week,
sy bl
endl
Ben
oru and Duke of Dar.
the
$ « at re
stallions sadow
Kilgore, proprietor,
in the
robably
events
ing of Tenny
will Pp
Lene
-The scratch
{ Brookivn and Suburban
i stimulate speculation on
| somewhat,
| —The stallion Nelson will not ap-
{ pear on American Association tracks
| this year unless first reinstated by the
| National Assoclation,
i =
| =-Hamblet nian sired 41 2.30 perform.
ers, Iiis soussired 753, while hisdaugh-
| ters produced 72 that are in the charmed
| circle,
~ Robert Bonner hss not yet sent
| Maud 8. to bis farm, but the full sistes
| of the queen, Russeiia, is there, and she
| is heavy iu foal by Ansel,
~Mrs. M. M. Patterson bas sold te
| H. W. Jefferson a roan Mare by Robert
| McGregor, dam Uzella (dam of Elgon,
i reg » UL,
| 2.30), by Mambrino Patchen.
~The horses are being sent along at
Belmout Course, The wheel-harrow
1 good work In cutting up the
manure
g put on the track,
has
hie aith
of
~James Golds been
and
twenty
ith, who
is impr
i OVINng in
é ¥
ier jg
sick.
on tran
quits
will #
er:
Lead to the Hariford tra
318 stable
oh.
apse of the Thompson
Sal I 1800 8
} the ky
i out a
4
- 1 he
schetne has jell
nen
fhe ¥
{ Course al a'l,
Oris.
that
Tace~
awaging wu
Nay very soon wil
| ~The annual sale of the
| stalls and hitching shieds a1
| delphia Driving Park oceurn
| and the sum rea ized was
John Metcalf, Harry
Thomas Grace are at the
| track with from four to
i sach, rece is handling
ster’s horses,
~ Estabella has dropped this spring,
at Village Farm, a filly by Mambnno
King. This 1s the only sister to the
great young stallion, Prince HKegent:
S-year-old record 2.164; now dead, -
- Vallera’s victory in the Memphis
j Derby recently will make this promising
ison of Springbok more of a favorite
Vallera is
Hunter and
Point Breeze
seven horses
Harry Web.
owned by Sceraggin Brothers,
~The Prince of Wales has his racing
; made easy for him as a rule. The
i Kempton Park officials always provide
|a special train for him and his party,
while the directors supply a free
lunch.
~The American Stallion Milton, by
Smuggler, won a two-and-a-half mile
international free-for-all trotting race
at Paris recently in 6.444, rate of 2.43}
per mile,
~The three cornered tandem race
from New York to Albany for $500 a
corner, between John A. Logan Jr. H.
K. Bloodgood and John R. Townsend,
has been declared off by common agrees
| ment.
~Thotas Jefferson, the celebrated
stallion, died at the Jefferson stables,
Charter Osk Park, Hartford, Conn., on
i Thursday. He was 28 vears of age, had
a record of 2.53, and won two $10,000
:
i
| ~Among the gentlemen who will come
| pose the Doard of Review of (he Nate
| ional Trotting Association at Chicago
on Tuesday, April 28, are ©. P. John
son, David Boner, George W, Archer
aud William Edwards,
agin; Setar Susitort’s great 4
Sheed § GAY
Rinfux, carried off the honors Des
events on the ng day of the