OUR PARIS LELTER
Truly, Lent is the season ‘par excel
lence’ for reunions of all deer tic
and among the most notable ones piven
here so fur are those of Mudame Adam,
the noted directicss of “La Nouvelle
Revue.”
Alweys in gnest of invovatirns,
Madame Adnm bas presented entirely
new and entirdly original progrommes,
In plaice of the shot repfesi nb tions
which ere ordinerily given, mi d which
leaves such a fleeing impres-i on of the
author or interpreier, Madene Adsm
devoles an entire programme to each
artist. Thursday was reserved for
Mongienr Chorles Grandmonugin, who
read his magnificent drama of “Cain”
before an audience composed of the
elite. Another evening was entrely
pocupied by the poet Jean Ramean,
who sperks in sn extremely curious
and personal manner, The aitisis
whom Madame Adam has thus raised to
prominence, in the fashionable world,
ought to be very grateful to Ler for
this mark of favor,
At these reunions rre seem many
sharming toileit 8 which are worth de-
peribing. One, of brown velvet, was
trimmed wits mastic faille. The skirt
was entirely plain, while the elose-
fitting jacket was ent below the waist
ine m square iabs; under these tubs
was placed a long, pleated basque of
faille. A large. square, Chapelin collar,
of faille, terminated in a very lugh
rolling collar held in shape by # fine
wire placed beneath the edge. With
this was worn a small round hat with
open-workrd brim, plain in front but
fluted and turned up against the crown
in the back. The trimming consisted
of folds of pink velvet around the
erown—a pretty rose tint quite new—a
knot of gold galoon in front, and black
ostrich tips in the back.
Another costume was of red cloth
a
| tn the buok, the left front edve of the
over-skirt is trimmed with gold galloon
and the right edge with loops of ribbon,
‘Wve fronts of the plain bodice, orna-
mented with revers, are crossed at the
waist line anil open on a plasiron oi
lune, iu the centre of which is & ease
of Ince reaching from the collar to the
crossing of the revers. The bh gh col-
| Inr, rovers snl wrists of the slovves are
trawmed with the gold galloon.
de
No. 946, G's Ursren,
ed home-spun or beaver cloth with
Tan-color-
trimmed with des gns of jet passemen-
terie placed at equal intervals apart on!
the bottom of the skirt. These designs |
were about an inch deep and nearly an |
inch wide. The corsage was made with |
a yoke of this beautiful passementerie, |
while the sleeves, puffed high on the
shoulders and close at the wrists, were
completely covered with jet. Jet is|
used on every thing and it is even reen
on light robes. No ornament is more |
orig nal, more elegant or lends itse.f to |
more odd combinations, i
All costumes are more clinging than |
ever, but not in the style'of last season
—that is in the outer garment. To-day |
this effect is obtained by the garm its |
beneath, thus leaving a greater fulness
in the dress skirt. Under skirts are |
rfectly adjusted by yokes low on tha |
BR and sre perfectly plain in front
and on the sides. These skirts are
made of Thibet, light as down, oceupy-
ing but little space and very warm,
pretty emb. oidered design ornaments |
the bottom. Above this 18 worn a skirt |
of faille or surah, the fulness held back |
by draw strings and the bottom fini h- |
ed with two or three parrow pinked |
rufles. For hand ball toilettes |
the under skirt is made of white fa:ille, |
pot lined, and trimmed with a i
of rose colored, pinked taffetas or
The richness of these under garments
surpasses all imagination, and 1% is ex- |
tremely diffizult to decide winch e- |
cites the greatest admiration.
the smallest articles of the toilette re- |
eerive the most careful attention. |
(Garter bands, corset hooks, all are set
flonnee
ince, |
The short under skirt
is of sik taffeta finished at the foot
with a pleating of the same, The front
is draped with the silk ganze ha ing
across the foot in front a pleating of
the same material, The back of the
skirt is covered bv the long train. The
jacket shape i bodice w ich o ers on
an nnder-bodice of silk ganze, has its
front edges trimmed with a shell-hiseo
pleating of the ganze. The upper part
——————
vet applique in the shape of a square |
yoke. Tue same applique covers the
Chestnut brown velvet are combined
in this garment. It is cui in sacque
shape, and slightly fulled on the point-
ed yoke of velvet, The garment is
closed in the centre of the front and
held at the waist by a belt of velvet
festened with a metal clasp. The full
sleeves are finished with velvet cuffs
Collar of the same material.
FANCY WORF.
Arrow, —This
sateen,
Crmo's
is made of white
little apron
with edg-
the middle of the front of the apron
over the chest—models
were given some months ag
knotted
which
are also fastened with a jewel,
pins which hold the hats, those which
support it and even the hair pins |
sparkle with these same jewels. So far |
has this faney been carried that it re- |
quires more style and elegance to wear |
s simple toilette cnriched with these |
gems, than one of the greatest magnifi- |
sence in which they are lacking.
Fruice Lesure,
of |
No. 942
No. M42. Morsxmva Wearern, This
pretty wrapper is of blue and white
striped flonnel with a square at the
front and back of the neck filled in
with tncked white crepon, The waist
and skirt are eut together, of sutfloient
fulness to allow for the pleats both
back and front, and fitted over a close
lining. The full sleeves, gathered into
deep wristbands, are cut on the bias,
The square at the neck is outlined by »
fold of the dress foods and the same
ma'erial is used for the belt and the
trimming on the wristbands.
No.” 948, GownNsaThis
elegant gown is ma of violet-orkred
No, M4.
standing eo'lar. Elbow sleeves of vel-
vet with a deep pleating ot ganze, and
pointed half girdle of velvet.
No. M4, Visimine Costume. —Auber-
gine bengaline, with embroidery in
chenille and beads, is the material used
for the costume. The plain, close
front of the skirt is trimmed with a
wide band of the embroidery; the
bodice laps to the right side and has
short paniers cut on at the front and
mdes, which are eanght together nnder
a clasp in front and terminate under
the coat back. The high collar lapped
edge of the bodice and close, deep,
cuffs of the full sleeves are ornamented
with the embroider,
No. 948. House Goww,-—This model
is made of fine striped wool goods,
The under skirt has a narrow
velvet and figured, violeb-silk gayse of
of the goods around the ad reer
over skirt is open In front and draped
ght
Fi~
low oit the middle of the top three.
quart rs of an inch deep for the arm
hole, . loping to an inch and a Lalf from
of the
side p eces join » skirt picce twelve
ORILD'S APRON,
inches wide and seven deep,
gathered on.
five inches wide and eight deep, hem
the right side an inch deep, and face
the left, and gather to ea h piece
skirt twelve inches wide and
to the sides by means of insertions.
The top of the front is then gathered
backs into two inches, and both are
bound with bands an inch and a quar-
ter deep, over which is a fiat fall of
The shoulder straps, which are join-
ed to the bana are six inc es long, an
inch and a half wide at the widest part,
and sloped a little narrower rears the
ends, At the wrist-line a strip of the
material is stitched down on the wrong
side for a drawing-string; loops are
fastened on the outside, through which
a ribbon belt is and tied as ilins.
trated; bows of ribbon are placed on
the shoulders.
To crochet the insertion begin with
a chain of 43 stitches; work back and
forth. 1st row.—Pasa 4, a treble cro-
chet on she next (for a treble put the
thread over twice, insert and pull a
loop through, work off 2 joopa, work
off 2 more, then work off the final 2), 8
chain, a single crochet on the following
8d (for a single, insert and pull a loop
through, work off the 2 loops on the
peedle), 4 chain, a double crochet on
the suoceeding 8d (for a double put the
thread over onee, insert and a loop
turough, work off 2 of the 8 loops on
the needle, work off the final 2), 4
times by turns 1 chain and a double on
the succeading 2d stitch, then 4 chain,
a single on the following 8d, 4 chain,
pass 2, double on the next 14, 6
chain, pass 3, 2 single on the last 2.
2d row, Turn, 8 chain, a double around
the following 2d stitch, 8 chain, a single
around the next 5 chain, 4 chain, 10
double on the middle 10 of the 14
double in the last row, 4 chain, a
around the following 4 chain, 4
2 double separated by 1 chain
the next 4 chain, 8 by turns 1
chain and » double around the ah
chain between 2 double, then 4 cobain
a tingle around the rext 4 chain, b
chain, 2 singles, one on the treble and
one on the succeeding stitch. 2d row,
~='T'nrn, 4 chain, a treble on the follow-
ing 2d stitch, 8 chain, a single sronnd
tie pext bb ehain, 5 chuip, a #fin
gronnd thenext4eban, 4ehainadon
sronnd the ehuin after the following d
donble, 4 times by turns 1 chain end a
donble around the succeeding chain,
then 4 ehinin, a single around the next
1
igh
dl
i chan, a «in
chain: b chain, 2 singles on
an | the succeeding stitch, 4th row.—
Turn, 4 chain. a treble on the secon,
8 chain, a single around the next H
chain, b chain, a single around the next
le rronund the
dle 2 of the 6 double in the last row, 4
ehnin, 4 chain, 2 doubles separated by
1 chain sronnd the next 4 chain, 3 times
by turns 1 chain and a
then 4 chain, a single sround the next 4
chain, 5 chain, asinele around the next
b chain. 5 chain 2 sinvles on the treble
and the sneceeding stitch, Continue the
work with the help of Figare 3, which
gives the pattern of the edg to
match,
For the edging begin with a chain of
49 stitches. lot row. Pass 0b, a
crochet on the next, 5 time
chain and a double on the following 2d,
then 4 chain, a single
ing 8d, 5 chain, a siogle'on the succeed-
ing 4th, 4 chain, pass 2, s double on
the next, 4 times by turns 1 chain and
a double on the succeeding 2d, then 4
chain, a on the following 3d,
ing
on
single
some powder out of it into the glass,
and stirred the liquid smartly,
# Oh me! oh we!” mosned the spar-
with a us if he were
washed,
“il'hore
agaun,’ the che
opened thio
Eparrow out,
“‘Look at the canary!’ yelled the
ch ldren on the street: ‘look at the
eavary: he has flown away from the red
chemist: eatehh him, catch the thief!’
and they threw s‘ones up into the mir
He sat on the eaves
and when,
however, lie heard the ery from the
street growing ever louder, ‘Look at
the canary,’ and the stones began to
hail more thickly, he looked about him
anxiously, and saw to his terror ina
little window that he had grown quite
yellow, like a real canary.
“Whiz! at that moment a window
pane flew in splinter; and whiz, ther
want anotier! Down below the boys in
the street wero fighting, till bleeding
heads and lumps were going, and the
neighbors were scolding out at the
broken windows, and two policemen
and each seized two
sponge, benz
now, ein
cried,
and threw
fly away
langhire,
the
Yon
mst
WILLOW,
ofl to the police station
‘Bat the little chemist was grinning
out at his garret window, and be eried:
** ‘Look, dear neighbors, to day you
chain, pias
2 tr bles on the succeeding 2. 2d
row,— Turn, 1 chain, 2 singles on the
next 2, twice by turns 5 cluinani a
single around the next 5 chain, then 4
chain, 2 double separatea by 1 chain
around the next 4 chain, 3 times by
turns 1 chain and a donble around the
chain after the succceding double, then
4 chain, as smngle asronnd the next 4
chain, 4 chain. 2 doubles around the
succeeding 6 chain, 4 chain,
next 4 chain, 4
double sround the chain after the suc-
ceeding double, 4 times by torns 1
chain and a double around the next
chain, then 1 chain, a double around
the following chain. 3d row.—lurn, 8
chain, 2 doubles separated by 1 chain
on the 3d and
times by tarns 1 chan and a double
around the chain alter the next double,
then 4 chain, a single
4 chain, 4 chain, 2 de
following 4
ond
.
ibles around the
5 y ;
chain, ible on the 3
\
de
around the 1
1 1 a 4
double aroun
following
work with aid of th
and the detailed
rows given. The
are the
a chain
tinue it
elas
athe. Loa
of
3
lace
it
Wer
foundation for is
1 his lace
t ean be
poses; it is also
made of wool
pattern is very desirable,
for variety of
Heed 101
very hands
n
me
THE SHAM CANARY.
It was raining one Munday, great
heavy drops. The birds were hanging
their little heads sadly, and a wood-
pecker was grumbling bitterly about
the bad weather.
“Ah! never complain of rain,
chirped a learned stariing. “I will tell
you a story in which the rain plays a
very important part.
“There was onos upon a time an old
deaf mother sparrow, whose wings and
legs had grown so heavy with age that
she had to lie still in her nest when her
son flew out to seek for food. But he
always brought her honestly whatever
he conld find. In winter he had to fly
far away into the city, ana search on
the street with great pains, but he liked
to do it, and was very glad when he
could carry home to his old deal
mother a morsel of bread or a grain or
two of oats,
“Now it happened one day that the
old ugly chemist with the hair as red
as a fox, and the hunchback, had put
a roll in front of his garrett window.
That very day, as chance would have
it, our sparrow could not find anything,
and as he was very hungry he flew
boldly in at the window.
“Click! elick!—1It shut behind him,
and | e was eaught,
“Ha, ha, ha!’ lnughed the ugly little
chemist, ‘you fool you have let yourself
be caught? and then he wanted to take
hold of the poor sparrow; but he flut-
tored about the room in terror, and
slipped away each time when the chem-
int fancied he had eaught him.
“At length the man threw his great
black hat over him, and then pulled
the poor wretch gently out with his
Is
“he little sparrow now thought:
‘O dear! now he is sure to hurt me,
or even to kill me, for don't wicked
people believe an animal does not feel
pain Like a person? Oh dear! oh dear!
what will become of my poor deal
mother!”
“However the red-haired chemist dia
not kill the sparrow, nor did he hurt
him, but only looked at him malicious
iy, and said:
““* Why are you happier than I, yon
stupid sparrow? Why do your brother
sparrows not laugh at you, as people
do at me? Why have you a smooth
grey plumage, and not red hair like
me, to make the street children ran
after me? Why oan you enjoy smong
the others the rays of the sun, the
n trees and bright flowers, aud the
tiful creatures on the dear earty,
and do not need to hide yourself ina
wretched garret room? It is because
you have no aap on your back, no
red hair and eyes? Just wait, sparrow
you shall have them too!’
“Then he stepped with an evil smile
”
“Then our sparrow wanted to fly
awny to his deaf little mother. Ah! he
raised his wings, when
boys down below began 10 make a noise
again, and threw stones at lim, aud the
other sy arrows commenced to peck at
him, and ened:
“ ‘Why come you here,
You ere rt
Toeat o
Fest on yi
We'll pee
glure ques
brea
ar head!
dead?
5
K yo
fhen the sparrow got away as quick-
ly a8 he conld. But in the next sireet
the sparrows flew angrily at him, and
cried:
“ "Why come you hers,
KY j dead!”
“And wherever the poor tormented
sparrow flew the cory was repeated.
Then he wept bitterly and thought: “If
I were only with my own dear mother,’
“At last he reached the little nest
tired todeath and all bedraggled. ‘Al!
mother,” he eried; ‘ah! my
aear r
iin te
ire
+ | ams vour son?
p old mother sparrow conld
ya know, and fancied the
was some strange rogne
shut the dom
low bird
£5
him standing
PpY SPAITOW flew
¥
an
{314 fishes, lo
H o
Bat the gold fis
shook their heads,
“Meanwhile it had grown « ark.
thunder was rolling and lightning
tongues were flashing through
ave you t
he
and swam away
the
in their soft, warm little nests; only
{e
alone on the branch
mother does not know me any more,
and the other birds will peck me to
death to-morrow,
hunger too. Oh dear! oh dear!’
“Thus thinking, he fell asleep.
When he awoke next morning he saw
that he was not dead vet. But as he
felt a great thirst, he flew to the pond
ain.
“The gold fishes cried: ‘Good-morn-
ing, little sparrow!" and when the
sparrow, quite frightened, looked into
the water, he saw that he haa again just
grey like an ordinary sparrow.
“Then he chirped slond with joy,
and flew off to his mother; and there
was such rejoicing that all the neigh-
bors gathered round to hear the won-
derful story.
“A heavy rain hal fallen during the
might, and had washed the whole of the
yellow color off the sparrow.
“And when the sparrow flew into the
city again, the soldiers at the Branden-
burg gate were crying ‘Hurrah’ and
presenting arms, and the old Emperor
was driving past, and the sparrow
swayed to and fro on the branch of a
troe in the warm rays of the san, and
cried, ‘Chirp! How I do love my life.’
“And so,” said the old starling who
was telling this trae story, "you should
pever gramble st rain.”
Som
Tus men in Lapland have dressed in
the same syle for a thousand years.
isi A Hs
THE SPIRIT OF EVENING.
WILLIAM STRUTHERS
Exquisite spirit of evening!
Thou, treading the dim paths of ale,
Post their myster nus secrets share,
The while vagus twilight echoes ring
Across the hills In faint sweet pals,
And on Day's wearied eyes are laid the seals,
And al her mirth and sadness, smiles and
tears,
Have joined their fellows of the vanished
years,
Slowly the last wan glimmering fade,
faverent of the day rotembed,
Night comes with cresset unillumed ;
Her floating mantle oversoades
The valley lands with sombreness
And silence, wha so much ean sill exprem,
Walks by her «ide, a-strewing buds of peace,
Whose [ragranee seems to breathe: “Seon
pain shail conse,”
1 stand in rovery of soul,
©, balm of Gilead! desire
Grows cold, and pale ‘ts fire,
Peedly the waves of passion roll,
And agorgliog rio 1 round one’s feet
wpeotral recat’ of too ir onee maddened beat l-
And windst | sof walk ol the mmbont pla;
AM nba Dea Lilids tan Anrichog hl yey way.
THE INDIAN POLICE.
BY BASIL RESTEIN,
Dering the Indian war in the viein-
ity of Pine Ridge, frequent reference
Leen made to the Indian police, and
ers have donbtless reen pio~
tures of this queer econstabn ary,
Ontside of the 1idian sgencics and
the War Department, very few peog le
know anvihing abont thisorganizat on,
it« number or d vet it plave
very important part on the front er,
number of veards
agent could i snd
orders, but that onl. he himself wad
likely to enforce them. There werd
eoldiers snd United * tutes marshals 1d
plerty, but none of them admitted the
rule of the Department of the Interion
So, when agent wanted anything
done, he was obliged to do it himselly
or Cu on the u certain ad of thé
friend Indisns or the employes of
the reservation.
his worked very
friendlies or employ
the order enforced: b
them, it had
made, for they
spent, and even
obev the
gloner, un
]
many rend
£3
fies,
was (1800
"ago that the
$Y
$i
an
i
ii
ily
nieely when the
desire d to sed
_ if it displeased
been
i at the
snally refused 1d
Indian C
““(irent Father”
ray of bay mets
Bo the |
first time gain-
was found to be a neces
better
Oniy
O10 113 18
nless
backed it up w
and deputy ma gree,
which has lately
ed notoriety,
sity.
An order from Secretary of the
Interior first aliowe d the agents to em-
ploy fr endly members of the tribe of
tribes under their charge to “preserve
order and protect the property of the
government and its wards.”
At first two or three members
chosen on each reservation, 1
were sometin es under the charge ol s
native cantain, more often they were
| captained by some white man,
| They were paid the munificent salary
| of ten dollars a month to offic.rs and
eight dolisrs a month to non-commis’
! gioned officers and privates, From the
time of the appointment of the police
the discipline of the reservations be-
came beter.
Only the best men, morally and phy-
| gic lly, were accepted by the governs
ment, whi was thus able to securd
! the material for its foree at the
smallest remuneration paid to any of
its numerous employes.
The entire Indian police now musters
about one thousand men, who are the
uf
sole agents + Interior Department
: {
the
werd
he po icd
+h
best
for the enforcement of its rules and the
ation of the Besided
they receive usual
sup of wards of the
resery Peace,
their salary, the
rafi ns and
government,
lies
rescribed by the gen-
instructions
operty of the
suppress every kind of
lawlesst ens TOSETVEe
form,
iI8 ung
he national
of both the civil
It approaches the
f the blouse and the
| trowsers with the bigh-top boots, Bat
{ the military asp lt in the broad
{| sombrers i the cartridge-belt and
{ Winel
LIArY Datal.
’
iis
al
Oceesionally the uniform is discard.
i, and then the members of the foroe
dress as they please Sometimes a casts
off cavalry suit, or a coat belonging to
a missionary or agent, finds the back
{| of a member of the force its last rest-
| ing-place before being cast into the
{ Tag-Dag.
But among this brirade, the mem-
bers of which stand between the nae
| tives and their white guardians, the
| most absolute discipline is maintained.
Most of the men belongiog to it are
married, asd live near the agency of
whatever reservation they may be ats
tached to. They have no general head-
quarters, being distributed among the
varions agencies. (olden Daye.
PEESONAL.
Mes CosrEr-Canmovs, the mister of
General Caster, has been offered the
position of Librarian of tte State Ld-
brary in Michigan. Mrs Calhoun is
well known as a reader, and and has
recently made a successful tour through
Richmond, Wilkesbarre and Washing-
ton. Some time in March she will read
to an assemb'y of the veterans at Har-
letn, and on that occasion Mrs, Custer
has accepted the urcent invitation of
the veterans, and will sccompany Mrs,
Calhoun.
Barox vox Havsex, architect of by
far the greatest number of the monn-
mental buildings that adorn modern
Vienna, died last month, Hespent his
youth at Athens, where he built the
Acsdemy and the University, and go-
ing tor Vienna managed to introdnoe
the classio style of Greece into thas
oity.
Tue danghter of Bjornstjerne Bjorn
gon, the Norwegian novelist, is an ac-
complished musician, and intends to
become & publio singer.
Tun Margaret "Winthrop Hall, at
Cambridge, is sn ised Miss
Pinckney, under the direction of Mr.
Arthur Gilman, The effort is tc make
a real home tor girls away from home
at school.
Ma. Bunxe-Joxus, it is said, by no
means approves of, and does not read
the stories written by his nephew, Mr.
Rudyard Kipling. It certainly would
be a little diffionlt fo imagine the paint
er of “The Briar Rose” bestowing hia
blessings upon the art which hss pro-
duced “Under the Deodars, "and **
Light that Failed.”
By Tun provisions of Dr. Schliemann's
will, a mausoleum is to be erected in
Athens to contain his remains and those
of his Greek wife and their two chil
dren. To this second wife he left the
antiquities in Lis house at Athens,
while to his first wife, from whom he
was divorced a number of years ago,
he bequeathes $20,000. Her two eml-
dren and the two of hic Greek wife
share alike ip Yee arvisiou ol bis prop.
4 erty 3
v