PII
OUR PARIS LETTER,
The attention of all the fashionable
world seems, for the present, to be
cen red on “walking costumes.” These
are not the cloth costumes worn early
in the day, perhaps for ehnrch services
or for visiting the poor and s:ck, which
are costumes of typical simpl erty, (nd
may even be adapted to bluck cashmere
“with a warm jacket or a large cloak of
sombre hue. For church service. one
ought not to attract attention by the
elegance of her dress or by an exag-
gerated ecqnetterie; and when one
becomes a +i-ter of charity, that is to
say, when she goes into a hospital to
minister in any degree to the needs of
the poor sufferers, it is nec. ssary to
put herself, at least as far as outward
dress is conerned, in harmony with
the work nndertaken. For this part
of the day then, consecra‘ed to picty
and good works, the most modest ma-
terial and the most simple forms are
the best,
But the toilette which we lave in
mind is that whieh occupies, and with
good reason, the entire attention of our
Parisians; it 1s the one to be worn from
three to five o'clock in the alterno nn
on the promenade of the Bois, There
the children, young ladies and mamas,
of a certmin age, abandon ther car-
risges for the promensde sceording to
“hygienic” Inws, Itis similar to the
beach at Trouville, the terrace
Dieppe, the English promenade at Nice
and the gardens of Monte Carlo, Ata
stated hour the fashionable world meets
here, waiks together and talks. Every
day the same iadies come here, for the
most part very baundsome, who dress
especialy for th s occasion,
During the season when all Parisians
withdraw from reunions and fetes, here
alone-are displayed pretty toilettes nnd
all the novelties whieh appear; here,
may be seen the most coquettish, the
most 1nconceivalle of wraps,
A well known “grandma,” siill beaun-
tifnl and very stylish, wears a gown of
black peau-de-soie tnmmed with a
flounce of the same material, and a
long jacket of broche black-silk lined
with sable. The design of the brocke
is a tangle of knots extending in every
direction; aronnd the neck is a sort of
scarf of Chantilly luce, forming a fichn
and then separated into two cascales
which border the fronts of the jacket. |
The sleeves are high with lace cuils|
falling over the hand. 3
of
Her little grani-daughter is as pretty |
as a dream ina robe of gray eloth em-
broidered with moss green pastilles
The bottom of the skirt, which j
elears the ground, is bordered with
deep band Bf veliet of the same sha
The c' ak isa triple Carrick of
same cloth with velvet braiding,
a Kate Greenaway hat in jleated
velvet. faced with rose co ored
completes this charming costume,
i
le. |
the i
wl
green
1"
faille,
A lovely capote for a young married
lady 1s of iris-colosed velvet draped in
an exquisite manner, In front, close
to the hair, is vlaced a beautiful, an-
cient ring, a Hungarian jewe , set with
multicolored stones. A butte: fly of
white lace, mounted on an invisible
wire, seems poised only for a moment,
above. In the Lack is a cluster of os-
trich tips and aigrettes, Verv charnn
ing, delicate and elegant are the little
plumes of jet, in clu-ters of three, and |
eomposed of cibochons and pearls of |
an extreme delicacy. a
Lent is never very strictly observed
in Paris, at least the first part of it, and
so subscription nights at the Opera are
always well attended. The most ele-
gant costumes are displayed here: one
of extraordinary beanty had a skirt of
beatiful white pean-de-soie open over
a tablier of rose-col rel satin embroid-
ered with pearls; a flue embroidery of
pearls edged the train. The pointed
corsage and the basque, with need!
po nts, were ornamented with knots oF
rose-colored velvet embroidered with
pearls. The Medien collar was also
embroidered with pearls, Short sleeves |
of white peau-de-soie, trimmed with |
two flounces of lace, fell over the close
slinging sleeves of rose-colored satin
dotted with pearls. Necklace and comb |
of pearls, If seems an if su bh a toilette, |
#0 refined 1 its details, 80 harmonious |
in all its “tout ensemble,” shonll be
alle to replace the decolietee robe,
often so immodest and comuwon in its
character. Frrice Lea,
No. 918, Carore.—Capote of white
cloth with pheasact’s wing. Oa the
center of the front is placed a red
d hlia and a knot of wo i ye velvet
ribb n. BSirings of black velvet,
No. 914. Boy's Cosivumn —This suit
consisting of knee-tronsers and a belted
jacket is made of blue diaconal, the
jacket being ornamented with fancy
stitching in black silk. The jacket is
closed on the right side and is finished
with a straight embroidered collar and
No. 915. Serixoe Warkixa Cosroxe,
—This costume is of blue-marine bure,
The skirt is plein in front and laid in
fan pleats in the bmek; the vest shape
corsage is open in [front and trimmed
with a tailor collar in silk, with revers
of fhe same material bordering the
vest fronts. High eollar snd plasiron,
of jersey red and blue, placed on the
lining of the fronts which close in the
centre. The plasiron is he d in place
by the shoulder inl under arm seams
aud fastened on the left side under the
edge of corsage front. Sleeves full on
the wrist. Belt in bl: e gros-grain silk
fastened with a gold buckle, Hat of |
"wane
A cmc ATI MN .
con Sly ITB ORGY ve wane Og
O
Jacket
bronze ani
EQ Vi Ivet.
plaid wool goods, colors,
Ue ge,
No. 916, Recerr
elegant toilette ix atin duech se and
velvet, with irimmivgs silver em-
broadery. The dress of bisck velvet is
cut in princess form over a petticoat of
hght-Llge satin duchesse. The back o
the corsige and side bodies, which exe
tend in narrow panels to the bottom of
the dress, also the plastron and straight
eollar are of satin duchesse., The front
of the corsoge of velvet, pointed, and
ent in a deep point at the neck, is fin-
ished*with a fliring collar. Sleeves of
velvet, The front of the corsage,
sleevez and front edges of the tran,
which border the tablier fof satin, are
ornamented wth silver embroidery,
also the flaring collar,
tox Tornerre. —This
{fm
Of
r
?
5
}
i
©
$
No. 920, Toque —Toqune of cream-
colored velvet with flaring brim of gold
lace set with co ored stones; cluster of
black and eream-colored a srettes, are
placed slightly to the left of the front.
i
i
i
i
ENGAGED,
{A 80 xET1.]
Etrange, arbitrary, hoop of gold ; how mneh
Thou mean’ st to me: how Little jo thyself |
Yet though thy jeweled circlet were of delf
"Twould tell the » ifswme tae, and at thy
touch
All, all bt one, would flee, with whisperings.,
suen
Ax. “eaten her being stuck npon the shelf!”
To me thou wilt not bring renter sil or pif,
Through thee uo added freedoon shall | elnteh.
He came—he whispered somethong--"twas a
charm:
I answered--less with words than with
Blush,
And, ere I woke to consciousness, was caged!
Ilove hia; yet at twenty tls a balin
To Know one's free, and not be pledged to
hush
Each tender word with, “Slop, sir; I'm en-
gaged!”
a
Thomas Frost.
A CONSENSUS OF THOUGATS
UPON THE PRESEXT AND THE FUTURE OF
WOMAY,
One of the most remarkab’e assem.
blazes of modern times was the recent
Women's Convention held »t Washing- |
ton City. Here for the flrs time were
shown woman's ambitions, hopes, as-
pirations sud desires, and her deter- |
minations for somethnng higher, bet er, |
nobler, more equuble than her present
condition. It war an us emblage cone
taining all the advanced thought of |
the prescut day upon the unsettled
question of the rights apd dues
womanhood. We give copious
tracts from the address of Miss Willard
and in them may be found much fool |
for per ous, houghtful reflection by all
intellects of both sexes,
In the course hir addriss Miss
Willard said: that she held, with the
President of the previous couneil, tht
a differer ce of opinion on one question |
must not prevent the women of America |
from working upitedly on those on
wh ch they can agree. T ey were en-
gaged io a heroiestroggleto Ht women
from mere sexhood up toward glorwus
won anhood, and to do this for ham n-
itv's sake was the problem. jut it has
taken women of brains and purpose |
more than forty years to find ont this
simple truth—to learn that they must
agree to disagres on many things in
order thst to the greatest numbers
greatest good might be attained. She
dist ne ly diavowed any ban
gether of women as maleontents or hos.
tiles tow ard the correlated oti er half of
the human race, and s:id ti at brute
force, to her mind, means ecnstom
cpposed to rea on, prejadic
autagonist of fair play. What
sctuuily mean is thet wuatever
tom law i contr ry fo that
of one's neighbor which
to hm her all
privile that one's
a relic of brute
to be enst «nt as ev )
some © Americar
of
$x
A
of
ing to
ns
3
the
we
fs
:
or 1%
or tLe
es
onr
his is st li
be father can will
ithat a ¢
iis held to be the
fn
in !
wiil
Nena _i
tld
:
CRITE OF
hut t
ol . An irl
in a erime where another an
er the principai been
many ways bLampered and harmed by
laws and cousloms porta ning to the past,
We reach ont our hands «f help, espe.
i overtake the
procession progress; for its sake, |
that it m 1¥ pot slacken ites speed on ber
acconnt, as mach as for hers that she
be not eft behind, We thas represent
the bnman, rather than the woman,
Every atom says to other
“Combine,” and, doing so, they
change chaos into order. Wien every |
woman shall say to every other, aud |
every workinpgmon shall say to every
other “Combine,” the war-dragon stall
be slain, the poverty-vip r shail be ex-
terminated, the go d bug transfixed by |
a silver pin, the mloon drowned out,
and the fst white slave hiberated from |
the wo «ds of Wisconsin and the bagn os
of Chicace and Washington.
Miss Willard then spoke of the detaild |
18 186 BIE IK 10 80
oues
of the organiz tion, and favored the |
ble—one that should include and com-
prehs nd local couucils in every state, |
county, city, town and village in the |
land,
We have long met, she said, to read |
essays, make speeches and prepore
petitions; 1 t u« here meet in this g
council to legislate for womanhood, for!
childhood and the home. She reviewed
the sdvance of women, and particulary
since the last council, meserting that
these threo years have prodaced greaer |
resulta than the previous fen years.
Cons der the fact that more than |
e guty-two per cent. of all our public |
school teachers are women; that over |
two hundred colleges have now ove:
i
reat!
forr thousand women stodents: that
indastrial schools for girls sre being
founded in almost every state; that
hardly a score of col eges in all the
pation atill exclade ns, and that these
begin to look sheepish and spesk in
tones apologetic, while the University of
Peunsyivania was lately opened, Bar-
pard College, mn New York, in the an-
nex to the magnificent Col mbia, and
the Methodist University of Washing-
ton. D. C., the Lelind Stanford and
Chicago Universities, with countless
millions bck of them, are, in a!l their
departments, including divinity, to be
open to women. Refleot that we are
admitted to the theclogienl seminaries
of the Methodist, Congregational and
Universalist Churches, to say nothing
of hall a dozen smal er ecclesiastical
communions; the Free Baptist and
other churches now welcome women
delegates to their highest councils,
while we vote in the local assembly
of amost every churchin Christen.
dom, except the Catho ic; and that
while some of us were re ected as del-
egates by the General Conference of
the M. KE. Chureh in 1858, that body
submitied the question to a vote of
2,000,000 Methodists, and sixty-two per
cent. of those “present and voting” de-
elared in favor of omplete equality
within the “household of faith,”
Puss in review the philantropies of
women, involving not fewer than si
societies of netional scope or valu
with their hundreds of state and tens of
thousands of loeal suxidaries, both
North and South, sud the conntless
loeal boards organized to help the de-
fective, dependent and delinquent
clnssos in town and city (all of whom
wonki be strouger if each class were
correlated nationally); study the *‘eol-
Ob solomien of
.
on the y lan of Toynbee Hall, London;
think of the women's protective agen-
cier, women's sanitary associations and
exchanges and indnstrisl sebools and
societies for physical culture, all of
which are but clusters on the heavy
laden boughs of the Christian civil z-
ution, which raises woman up and, with
her, lifts toward Heaven the world, i
Con emplate the women's foreign]
and home wissionary societies, relative |
to which an expert tells us that the |
firet was “organized about a quarter of |
a century ago, and now most ot the
denomnuations have both associatious, !
with a contribut ng membership of
about one and one-half millions, They |
bold, at least, a hall-m lion missionary
meetings every year, presided over Ly |
women. ‘lhey raise and disiribute |
about two millious of money every
year, and these several boards sea |
each little investment with as much
care as if a fortune were to be made in |
discovering an er or in the aecconuts. |
Marshal in blessed srray the Kong's
Daughters, two hundred thousand
with their motto, *‘In His!
fere the Catholie Toal Abstinence So- |
ciety at i's late meeting, in the pres-|
enee of distinguish d prelates of that
clinrels, which, while most
others atiliz ug the money, u
and work of woman, is most conserva-
tive of ull when their publ e efforts are
concerned. Hemember the p
i ta 1s
as she stood plendin r the cause of h
carte Hin widows upon this p
for. vee years ago, and rejoice that
in ber school ut Poona the dream is
culming true.
bey on i
devoti
sth
gh
OO ii
A THIDUTE TO MISS GARRETT,
The air of the ¢ ast dave is
i tiding In New
city, suen lesders as Mary
Jacobs snd Mrs, Avnew Lave
around Dr. Exuma Kempin, the le srne
lawyer from L asanne, and are belpin
York
Put }
IE.
tm
women to en er the learned profess
that has most thickly he
away frcm them In Baltimore,
6 most progressive
at oar country
ut th i
niversity to
tuspged its
Leen
% 1
ALK
3
fit
Pp
vit open ot
us,
me
rosie ced, vad the move
hos Hopk
=" fiready oO
ius |
and bL mn
2
medical
vent
fin
fe ide
On
ex #1 ie by
and plans,
Mussachn
Wien BL 3
participated, la lies repre
alan ums of Mt Holyoke Co
longer a ‘fe seminary,”
i ankially observed; also,
Wel esley-—a tableau that, in
inherent college couservstism, oould
not bave been furnished for ir 3
had not ¢ disenthral-
of women become most
muaie
v.ew
Or
©
ment a
In speaking of Parnell, she
ent disecrowned estate had been but
tle emphasized,
question ha: had no triumph so signal
generation. It 1s pot many
years, alie said, since sny man of great
gifts and sp end d schievemen = in the
lnterest of human ty was entirely sep-
As a hero, te stool
knew of him
in his relations to the world; bunt, as s
two characters,
altog ther a different personality, with
whom the public had nothing whatever
to do, and, no matter how basel: ho
cern « f theirs, becanse the estima'e of
woman was #0 much beneath that which
18 now held,
Ou the subjee’ of “co-operative hap-
piness,” she said that, in the ep ch on
which we have entered, labor will
doubtless, come to be the only potent-
ate, and “for value received,” will have
the skilled toil 0o' the human species as
its sole basis of any *‘specie payment”;
“a note of hard” having no offset save
the hnman hand at work. For man,
added to nature, i« ail the epital there
is ou earth; and ‘the best that any
moral hath is that which every m rtal
shares,” But netare belongs equally
to all men; hence, the only geunine
cap tal and chanveless medium of ex-
change, always up to par value, is labor
itself; and there will, eventually, be no
more antagoni-m letween capital and
labor than betwnen the right band and
the leit. Labor is the intelligeat a .d
bene:icent reseti n of man upon na-
ture. This reaction sets force enough
in motion to float him in all waters aud
to carry him across all continents. His
daily lab r, then, is the nataral eqaiv-
a ¢ut he furn shes for food ana eloth-
ing, fuel and shelter, and it is the sn.
preme interest of the state to prepare
he individual in head, hands and heart
to put forth his higiest power. Car
ried to its legitimate conclusion, this
18 the soo aliem of Christ; the Golden
Rule in rection; the basis of that golden
ag6, Wich shall suocend this age of
gol
A passion comes to an end; it drops
out of life 0 e way or other, aad we seo
it no wore, Dut ii has beea part of our
souls, and it is eternal,
If a woman was as careful in select
ing a husband to m teh ber dispo-ition
us she 8 in selecting n dress to mat h
ber complexion, there would be fewer
unhappy marries than there are,
A man who looks at his wife a< though
the moon was sbout $» turn to blood
whenever she asks him for a couple of
do lars is not likely to become very elo
quent in prayer at lis family altar,
The social affections are the refiners
and softeners of life, the main sources
FOOD For THOUGHT,
Nature never pretends,
Time stands close to eternity,
The sun isalways shining somewhora
ITe who does nothing 13 very near dos
ing ill,
One-half of heroism is bravery; the
other half 18 modesty,
A close mouth ealls for few assessments
and pays big dividends,
Suff-ring Is always a consecration
Pride ean come nearer making a per-
Next to the virtue, the fun in this
Great hearts alone understand how
It 's alwavs onr own feelings that 1.
Crime flies with the wings of Mercury,
but Justice pursues It on crutches,
No one is useless in this world who
Helens the burdens of it for any one
else,
Woman possesses in good, as well as
evil, an energy which surpasses that of
man,
the luck of per-
stupid ties ouly aller baviog
4 Lwin,
Some pers ns have
esiving
comni.t
Adver-iiy is aj wel that sh nes bright.
Hour Beigiho.rscrown Luan in our
own,
er
| A man’s gray matter is hus only pos
session that is sulliciently extensive to
tsalisty Lim,
Men show their character in nothing
| micre clearly than by what they think
Liughabie,
Aboy
2 i
wrutls
all things always speak the
; your word must be your bond
the i fof
srough Life,
hine
ning on
to take
Next to lazines
ear is
Lit LO resist
ina Lunt,
s hardest t
8 lmpulse
Sides
We swallow at one mouthful the lie
that Oatters, an! drink drop by dropthe
Lrath that is bitter,
Wiatever else
sr ah +
be pure,
SAU RUG Douest,
may be wrong, it must
to just and tender,
ought to
sn Lut hatll
1, but e'y
a ceriain
rs begin to
WO
nr
and
n, shows
?
ea,
ind of fauli-g
Rtadiag
When you
: t
r dical, and
are right you cannot be too
wrong you
when you are
The lives of some great men make us
oul her the doors of success are
i whetl
' 1
or ‘pull’
i ?
marked “push
It is a good policy to tell the truth,
| because if you don’t you can’t expect to
| be believed when you tell a lie,
Coune=el is a good thire: but it 13 bes
er 10 take counsel of one’s own indis
cietion than of another man’s,
Every sorrow has its limits, and the
most violent oulh irsts exhaust most
| quickly the fountain of pain,
¢
A dead man is given more charity
than he can make use 0 ; a living man
isn’t given as much as he deserves,
The words of m*n are 1 ke the leaves
of the trees; when they are too many
ibey hinder the growth of the fruit.
Very old people often are free from all
appeara’c2 of sin, b ciuve they have
avthing left fr either to feed upon,
Every man feels in<tine’ ively that all
the beautiful sentiments in the world
weigh Jess than a single lovely action,
The devil has a keen sense of humor,
and whe: be hears a drummer tell a
“new story’ he laughs hlws If sick.
Let your a'ms-giving be anonymous,
It has th double ad vantage of suppres.
inr ut the same UUme ingratitude and
abuse,
Live with your centu'y, but be no its
creature; bestow upon your coulempor-
aries not what they praise but what they
need,
From the time a boy puts on his first
pair of pants until the day of ns death
there Is a woman trying to keep him
at home.
Open biographical volumes where you
will, and the man who has no faith in
religion, has faith in a nig stmare and In
ghosts,
To be able t) endure honest and kind
criticism requires qiite as mach wisdom
#8 to be able to make honest and wise
criticism,
We a'l want the elevator to walt for
us, but when we are in we don’t Like to
wee It kept wait.ng any longer {or any.
body else,
The man who ean look at a thermom-
cter on a very hot dy and go away and
tell the 1rath about It will do to trust
anywhere,
There are more quarrels smothered by
just shutting your mouth and holding i
shut toaa by all the wisdom in the
world,
The man who thinks more of himself
than any one else thinks of him Is in a
pr ition to die w.thout distressing the
‘I'he man who isin trouble can always
sos what an easy thing it would have
been for him to keep out if Le had only
thought. :
There are peop'e who are a'
ticipating op and in as
manage to Y MARY SOTTOWS
never really happen to them.
The better half of memory consign
ao
olitel means by widch
ah
i
of