Summer by the Sea.
——
Cape May.
The coming season always leads one
to think of the seashore, hence our
readers will take an interest in the
following extracts from a well written
letter :
Cape May is no exception to the rule
of solid improvement and, substantial
progress, which is the rul® that prevails
everywhere on the ceast. To thousands
of people “*Cape May’ always has been,
to thousands of people ‘Cape May”
always will be the ideal watering place.
For nearly half a century Cape May
has been known ; long before the teem-
ing brood tbat bask in the summer sun
from Seabright down had acquired a
local habitation and a name, It was a
household word from Philadelphia,
through Baltimore, Washington City
and all the way down the coast and up
the Gulf and river to New Orleans.
It has always been the favorite sum-
mer retreat of Baltimore, Washington
and other Southern cities,
Its suitableness as a winter resort
was left to be demonstrated bythe in-
vestigations and reports of the New
Jersey Board of Health. In the record
of vital statistics its annual death-rate
is among the very lowest anywhere,
Its local authorities are zealous in their
endeavors to maintain its deserved
reputation, and the testimony volun-
tarily prepared by the State board only
a few weeks since, that “Cape May
would need no further official visitation
from their officers for four years {o
come,’’ shows the perfection which all
the sanitary regulations have attained.
Indeed, no place, perhaps, on the entire
coast has more natural advantages ol
situation. The only possible land breeze
must come from the north. The
southerly winds come, uncontaminated,
up from the sea and sweep over the
town, while on the westerly side there
is the broad expanse of Delaware bay,
over which, at night, the light-house at
Cape Henlopen is saluted by the flash-
ing light of Cape May.
Whenever there has been danger of
encroachment by the sea upon the land
pilings to the depth of twenty feet have
been driven in, and inside of these the
whole has been made solid with stone,
* * * * * *
The amount invested in entire new
buildings, in extensive additions to the
capacity of hotels and cottages already
built, apd in other special improve-
ments, will aggregate several hundred
thousand dollars, Mens, Denizott’s
new Hotel Lafayette, with its 100 rooms,
furnished in most exquisite style, will
cost well up into $100,000 itself, and
the solid as well as ornate additions to
the New Columbia, will cost quite half
as much.
The Stockton House
$10,000 in repainting, in putting in a
new system of sewerage, whicl had the
cordial endorsement of the State Board
of Health, and in a thousand and one
little improvements which will add to
the comfort and pleasure of its guests,
The New Atlantic bas been elabora-
ted and repainted. A hotel and two
new cottages are going up on the **Mt,
Vernon tract,” and the “Knickerbocker
Ice Company” kas gone to $5000 ex-
pense in repairs, Many new cottages
of the neatest and most cosy kind
been built, costing from $5000 up to two
or three {imes that amount,
The Messrs, Crump will fly their
hospitable banner from above Congress
Hall, and Mr, Th. Mueller, of Philadel-
phia, will soon open the doors of his
new and charming Aldine Villa.
North of Cape May several new places
have recently sprung up or been projec-
ted, Holly Beach, Anglesea, Sea Isle
City, Ocean City and South Atlantic
City. Ocean City is in one sense a rival
of Ocean Grove, for members of the
same powerful and religiously aggressive
branch of the church have made it a
citadel whose banner bears the legend,
“‘Holiness to the Lord.”
Sea Isle City, farther South, lapped
all along its ample front and almost
environed by Ludlam’s bay-and Town-
gend’s inlet, is the project of Mr,
Charles K. Landis. A spur from the
West Jersey Railroad at Sea isle Junc-
tion, five miles long, brings it within
sixty-five miles of Philadelphia in dis-
tance, and little more than two hours
in time. The season is not far off when
all the multiplied and multiplying re-
sorts along the coast, from the High-
lands near Sandy Hook to Cape May
Point, shall be strung upon one or mote
continuous lines of railroad, and where
now spare hundreds or single thonsands
of population are found during the
summer months, tens of thousands will
be congregated, governed by equal
similar laws, and shariag with each
other a like spirit of local pride and
jealous rivalry,
CAPE MAY POINT,
This little resort, which became so
popular last season under the new pro-
prietors, ‘“The Cape May Improvement
Company,” has improved wonderfully,
On Lake Lily the fleet of pleasure
- beats has been increased and the man-
agement have also secured several
has invested
have
yachts which are intended to convey
guests to the fishing banks or on an
ocean pleasure trip. Ten thousand
magnificent foliage plants of various
colors will add beauty to the walks
leading to the hotels,
The Cape House was thrown open to
the public, by the management, at the
close of the summer season as a winter
resort. It is well known a that
the climate at the Point iF¥ery mild in
winter, and the hotel in consequence
leaped at once into popularity, and it
has done an excellent seasoi’s business.
The Carlton House will reopan in June,
while the Cape House will continue
open hereafter all the year around.—
Correspondence Phila. Press.
The New Dress.
r—
a farmer, from: Lake
county, as I afterwards found out,
came info my shop. That was when
I did not have a stock of coffins in the
front room, and when my shrouds were
hanging in neat cases. Well, he looked
at several of them, and finally he chose
one and took it home with him, saying
it was for his wife. I condoled with
him, and, though he seemed mystified
by my talk of grief, he paid for the
shroud and earried it off. Two or three
days after he came back with a middle-
aged lady. The woman was In great
rage, while he was much downcast,
He called me aside and, in a whisper,
asked me what the garment was I had
sold him. Well, sir, I began to see
what was the matter, but I kept a
straight face and whispered back, ‘a
shroud, I thought, sir, ye see, that
you had lost your wife.’ He grew more
downcast than ever, and pointing to
the lady who was in the front of the
store said: ‘“That’s my wife. Don’t
look as though she was dead, do she ?’
Well, sir, I thought I should die from
trying to keep back the laugh. Then
he whispered to me, ‘I unfolded the
thing before her. She screamed right
out and said: ‘Samuel (that was his
name), what are you a-thinkin’ about ?
I don’t want to be buried just yet, no
much. Ye needn’t think ye are goin
to get rid of me that easy.’ Then she
and cuttin’ up,
of sorts. Finally I
told her that it was a pretty dress,
Then she went off again, but finally she
came to, and she gave me a good tongue
lashing. Finally, to quite her, I promis.
ed to bring her in and get two pretty
dresses for her, and here I am. Now,
won't you give me back the money, and
take back your shroud ?' ‘Of course |
will,’ said I. ‘Anything
person in Well,
next
said his good wife |
“One day
commenced cryin’ 80
that I felt all out
to oblige a
I gave him
I saw
distress.’
his money, and the time
wd never got-
anted to get
“in Exch
him he
ten over
rid of her
the idea that be w
A fi 51 nl riaks
a’ i
---
Marble-Time and Marbles.
kite-time, ball-
ime,
There
time and marble-t
appears to know the
of these What
exact dates of these seasons we do not
know : but we do know that a boy of
proper principles would no more be
found playing marbles in top-time than
he would be caught at some mean act,
If we could learn the early history of
marbles, we should find that they were
played by the ancient Romans, and it is
very likely that boys before the Christian
era had their marble time, just as you
now. It is said that marbles are
found in the ruins of Pompeii, which
shows that the game is a very old one,
In ancient times, the roundest natural
pebbles that could be found, were used
for playing, and it is not known when
manufactured marbles first came into
use, It is known that they were im-
ported into England from Holland in
1620, and they were no doubt made
much earlier than that,
Some very common marbles are made
of clay and baked, but the best kinds are
made of different kinds of stone includ-
ing marble and agate, Holland and Ger-
many are the countries which produce
nearly all the marbles that are used,
The stone is broken up into pieces as
nearly round as possible. These are
then placed between two millstones,
which grind them into shape, but leave
them rough. To make the rough mar-
bles smooth, they are placed in a wood
cask, in which are cylinders of hard
stone, the cask revolves, and the
marbles rub against these stones,
and against ome another, until they
become very smooth. The dust formed
in this operation is then taken out, and
emery put in, when the cask is again
make to revolve, and the, mar les are
polished. Some marbles, eo of a
porous stone, are dyed, and some very
coarse snes are painted, The finest kind
is made from agate ; thege are costly, as
they are made singly, each being ground |
by nand by holding it against a Jurge
grindstone. Marbles are ‘divided
“taws,’’ as the common ones are call
and “alleys” for the finer ones. Taw is
anabbreviation of tawny, the color of the
common marble, while alley is from ala-
baster, the stone from which the finer
are Lop-time,
and every
proper season for
boy
each sports, are
do
| kinds are made
for her Nushand’s sensation.
doctor gave her a prescription, and told
her : “Get that prepared at the drug
store, and rub it well oyer your hus-
band’s back. ‘And if it does any good,
come and let me know. I'vé got a
touch of rheumatism myself.”’ She was
an indigent woman when she came and
an indignant woman when she left.
A little girl said to her mamma,
“ Mamma, have you heerd of the man
that got shot ? ‘* No, €hild, how did
he get shot 7?’ asked mamma, -, A Oh,”
said the young precious, ‘*he Fought
‘em.
Pog said a. lady to hePseryant,
‘1 wish, you would step over ang see
how old Mrs. Jones is this morning,”
In a few minutes Polly returned with
the information that Mrs, Jones was 72
years, 7 months, and 28 years old,
At W regent party a Miss Joy was
present, and in the course of the even-
ing some one used the quotation, *'A
thing of beauty is a joy forever,” when
she exclaimed, “I am glad I am not a
beauty, for I shouldn’t like to be a Joy
forever!
A clergyman, with a cough, préached
recently to an irritated congregation at
St. Patrick’s, Dublin. The next morn-
ing’s post brought him the following
communication :
"Tis passing strange when we reflect
And seems to beat creation,
That when '‘oration’’ we expect
We got “axpect-oration.’”’
Danbury has the champion patient
He comes from a chronically bor-
rowing family. The other day he went
to a neighbor's for a cup of sour milk.
‘* I haven't any but milk,"
the woman, pettishly. ** I'll wait till
** said the obliging youth, sink-
intoa
buy.
sweet said
it sours,
ing chair.
—
Thorought red.
We believe we express the sentiments
of the intelligent
when we assert
it is alone in the Thoroughbred are
to look for favorable results, not
alone in what are too frequently termed
of a majority
citizens of
that
we
large
our country,
“dumb brutes,” but in the genus homo.
We will not argue the virt
blood.”
time immemorial
filled with
elicacy of
ues of “blue
but will simply state that since
the
instances
world has been
of the
tone to the
How
notable
blood |
Ti rel] as
to society.
ofte it is
while
solid tr
generally
“hlood
said in of
uth, CAIrTies a
apprech We Ix
much in the blood of men and women
one that
ated, lieve
as we do in that of “blooded stock.’
inheritance, so is bad
the
generation,
inevitably develop in
third, It is that
proges
from
genealogical
blood is an
it may
appear in the
Croond
3 : 1 |
blood, not in atler case
first but will
the second
rarely families are
: 3.4 :
or 2 fii] +
FOO HIGO0
we sti
i
Wie 3
iy the
icious, we will
of the ancestral tr
was of mixed or corrupted blood, It
the out
parent stem ee
spectacle to see
an every-day
it is and
ous names of the past reproduced in
the men of power of day.
not advise the heroic treatment of blood
conditions as applied by the
and others, who were for exterminating
those whose physical or moral ailments
unfitted them for contention with the
more athletic or moral ; yet we think
some theory should be adopted and put
n practice for restricting the extension
of inferior lines of humanity-—multi-
tudes who from their birth through
organie defects, mental and moral, unfit
them for the duties of life, and who
become a tax upon the fittest who sur-
vive, who fill hospitals and poorhouses
and finally fill pauper graves. There
are deflections from this principle, but
they are the exception, not the rule,
“fike father. like son.” is old but
trite. Show us a thoroughbred stock of
men and women, and we will point you
a corresponding descent. But, per con-
ra, the evileminded or the bestial will
not fail to bestow upon society an off-
spring equally offensive to the world as
their progenitors. There are instance.
where an unknown individual, withoat
a record, ascends the ladder of fame
and perches in one of the highest
niches of fame's temple. The admiring
multitude exclaim, “A self-made man ;
but, if so, he is but one of ten thousand :
he is the exception. The rule is, that
the wise, the honest, the great, come
from a descent of sturdy, fixed princi.
ples, and noble fmpulses, establishing
what is termed ‘good blood.” We have
no rule of ethics by which to improve
the stock of men and women, nor have
we any medicing, hor elixir, to give per
fection to the anirnal in man. There is
something needed to produce the tho-
Yoghired. | This journal is open to sug-
pus, and will be willing. 1a advanct
the intent of this fedture: in’ humanity
| AS in ade of stock. Phila.
the
Spartans
A discovery of silver ore, ‘assaying
$26,000 to the ton,” is reported to hay
been made in the Turkey Creek Valley,
28)miles sou thwest of Prescott, Arizona
Value of old Gold.
————
It is not so long ago that an eminent
dentist, in calculating the loss of gold
to the world in the one item of teeth
fillings buried with the dead, prophesied
that in a few hundred years the entire
gold in the world. would ex-
hausted,
Thismay or may not be so, Life is
far too short to enter into illogical rea-
sonings ; yet we cannot ignore the fact
that the waste in precious metals alone
is perfectly enormous.
A trifle of a trinket, bearing upon its
surface but a particle of gold, is care-
lessly cast aside as worthless; and yet
men toil and suffer and die in quest of
particles of no greater value, for it is
an established fact that the small parti-
cles known as gold dust, obtained fre-
quently under almost insurmountable
difficulties, have not only greatly enrich-
ed the world but they bear no inconsid-
erable part in making up the world’s
riches,
The gaudy bauble of the lady of
fashion, no matter how beautiful in
itself or how much improved by the
artistic mind and work of some artisan,
carries perchance in every dazzling flash
of its beguiling lustre the sad story of
the pain and the suffering of some hu-
man being.
If the man, who makes two
blades of grass grow where only
become
then,
one
grew before can justly be regarded as a
philianthropist, how infinitely
is the philianthropic work of him who
husbands the riches of the world,
who from the dirt and mire and
of work and trade and wear brings back
the lost particles and the
hands of men the bright, erude, glitter-
ing lumps of gold for further use which
but for him would
world forever.
Is there such a man ? you ask.
greater
and
muck
places in
have been lost to the
Yes,
we answer ; and to him is due the credit
of reclaiming hundreds of t
dollars worth of gold, silver and other:
precious metals, Mr. J. IL. Clark
that man, and his extensive refining and
smelting establishment at Phila-
delphia, from a small beginning now
almost monopolizes that branch of the
for nearly of the
gold and silver in the city
upon his science and skill
housands of
is
mechanical arts, all
workers of
are dependant
to glean back for them which,
without his or other equally skillful
riches,
have been lost,
compli-
is genius cannot
» busin
There is 3 nothing too small or
Mr. Clark does a large
as dentists’ remainders, fillings
and sweeps ; silversmiths’ polishings
stonings ;: photographers’ sil
silver-platers’ wire and chlor
snd gold
the sweepings and gold nr
battered
and silver
also
Wale,
tested on
These latter articles are
and on a4 basis of Lis
and
the price obtained causes gratified sur-
Four smelt
Mr. ¢
wg fur-
operation in lark’s
The
over
$2000 a week.
ni
American Fables.
A peasant who had often heard that
Truth was a Jewel lying at the bottom
of a well, day descended into his
well to search for the treasure. He
skinned his koees and elbows, barked
his nose, ran an old fork into his foot,
and shivered around for six long hours
before his wife drew him up and asked :
‘“ What in Goodness’ name were you
doing down there?’ ‘*‘Looking for
Truth.” ** Why, I could have told you
before you went down that you were the
biggest fool in America I’ Moral : You
can get more Truth than you want
around the well-carb, ——The Sailor and
the Shark : A sailor who had fallen
overboard and was speedily interviewed
by a shark, cried out to his enemy:
“ Have pity on a man who is down ?"
“ My friend,” replied the Shark, "a
man who keeps himself above water is
of nouse to me. Now is my time!
Moral : The man who falls overboard in
business can expect no favors of the
sheriff.~——The Fox and the Farmer : A
Fox one day made a call upon a Peas.
ant and bitterly complained of the cus-
tom of shutting poultry up at nights in
Fox-proof pens. “It isn’t because I
suffer at all,” added Reynard, ‘but
think how uncomfortable it must be
for the poor fowls. Tt is their condi.
tion I wish to mitigate.” The Peasant
took the matter under advisement, and
next evening he neglected to shut up
his Fowls. Next morning he came
across the Fox just as he had finished
feasting on a fat Pullet and cried out:
5¢ Ah! this is the way you take 10 pity
my poor Fowls, is it!”
see,” grinned Reynard, * ° feel
sorry for the Fowls, but at the same
time cannot afford to miss an oppor.
tunity.”
acres of land to sell is the chap who
first sees the need of an orphan asylum./| every
«Detroit Free Press,
one
Etiquette and Steel Forks.
The writers of treatise on etiquette,
however much they may differ upon
many points of behavior, all agree in
telling us that one should not eat with
the knife. Now, this is a questioning
age, when the caustic intellect of the
rising generation bites into all asser-
tions which our predecessors have ac-
cepled as axioms, and it may not be out
of place to inquire if there is any good
existing reason why man should not
carry food to his mouth with a knife,
The prejudice against the use of the
knife grew up when the guests at an
Anglo-Saxon dinner-party brought their
knives with them to the feast and cut
therewith their portions from the com-
mon dishes, Now it is obvious that it
would be improper to eat with the knife
which was to be put the common
dish, Our refined ancestors, therefore,
conveyed their portions to their mouths
with their fingers, after having cut them
out with their case knives, Refined
ladies then would have had reason for
shrinking with disgust from a man who
did not eat with his fingers, The well-
known saving that **fingers were made
before forks’ was once replied to by a
clever by the assertion that
his fingers were not. But when forks
came in and supplanted fingers the rea-
son for the prejndice against the use of
the knife faded away, and sensible
forerunners of the last century, finding
it impossible to balance their small veg-
the two-pronged forks of
used the
into
ostonlan
our
etables upon
¢ period,
and in a few
with their roun
ir knives fearlessly,
knives
ded edges and broadened
manner of
animal
old families the
ends stil showing the
a bygone ag
world of the si
But,
silver forks have come into use,
exist,
e, as fossils show the
lurian period,
vithin the last few years, since
Knives
the mouths,
er would prefer that
his guest should backbite neigh.
make than that
they should eat with their knives. It
that the objection that the
mouth may be cut the knife, is not
tenable : one might as well assert that
the sharp points of the fork are likely
are not allowed to approach
and a host at a ding
their
bors or puns, rather
is obvious
by
to put out the latter's ¢ It is simply
man minds and which people observe,
just as they retain two buttons over the
after the reason for them
The prej
s0 deep-rooted that courts have taken
Not long ago
as eating a piece
ail, long
Coal ~18
udice is
judicial cognizance of i
a German traveler w
of Bologna sausage in a railway
The train
the edge of the
inst his mouth, and ie
train,
ie niy
using his Knife. gue
.
a8 knife
stopped, just
Was Aru man’s
cheek was badly sued
TGA
ompany for damag but the cla
the
eat with a kn
the «
was not sustained for resson i
-
Making Fiddle Strings.
Violin, guitar and bani
strings of all sorts that c
and
y strings,
4
ome under the
‘gut,’’ are made from
om
used for sewing
overs up to the half-inch
thick After
seven months old its entails are no
longer fit for making strings for violins ;
consequently this branch of the manu-
facture can only be carried on a few
months in each year. All the work of
making gut strings is about the same,
but greater care has to be exercised in
preparing those intended for musical
justruments than others. The process
of manufacturing those is comparatively
simple, but far from easy, When the
entrails, for which a good price has to
be paid, are thoroughly cleaned, they
are split with a razor. Only one-half is
fit for use in violin strings, That isthe
upper or smooth half. The lower half
is fatty, rough and of unequal thick-
ness, The strips are put through rollers
turned by hand for eight or nine days to
take all the stretch out of them. Then
they are spun or twisted, Five or six
strands go to make an E string, eight
or nine an A string, and twenty are put
into a D string. Then they go through
a bleaching bath of sulphur fumes,
After that they are twisted again,
Then they are softensd in pearlash
water, again subjected to the action of
the sulphur fumes, twisted again, dried
and finally rubbed down smooth with
pumic stone. Altogether, it takes ten
or eleven days to makeastring. When
done they are each seventy-two inches
long—four lengths for a violin-.and
thirty of them coiled separatély and
tied together make up the *‘bundle’’ of
the trade. We can make just as good
violin strings here as the best that come
from Saxony or any other part of
Germany, and very much better than
any that are made in France, but we
cannot compete with the best Italian
strings in point of quality, Except in
the latter, not more than one in three
will be absolutely correct and equal in
tone throughout; but there is one
lambs and cattle, fr
delicate. threads
wg 3 1 *,
racket-ball
round belts
process of his own, secures and guaran-
every thing he makes, He does not
>
bundles a year, but higstrings commang
$10 per bundle here—cost that to the
importer-—while other Italian strings
are worth only $4 or $4, and others only
$1.50. The Italian makers have one
great advantage--the raw material is
thin, fine, free from fat, and evenly
smooth all around, so that they can use
the whole, instead of having to split it,
as we must, That gives to their com-
pleted strings a durability and evenness
that we cannot attain, No gut harp-
strings are manufactured in this coun-
try. v
tp se
For the Prudent Housekeeper,
A tablespoonful of turpentine beilled
with your white clothes will greatly aid
the whitening process,
A Haxpsome LAamsreguix for a
corner bracket of ebony is made of dark-
blue satin, with a band of plush or vel
vet across the bottom, The satin should
be fringed out to form the finish ; on
the satin paint or erpbroider some stalks
of golden rod, with a butterfly fluttering
them. Another pretty way to fix a
bracket is to have simply a of
fringed-out crimson satin tacked to it
with a delicate vine painted in oil or
water-colors on it.
band
TOCLEAX STRAW MATTING.
it with weak salt and water and
well,
Wash
dry it
or boil a small bag of bran in two
gallons of water and wash the matting
with the water, drying it well
When washing lisle thread gloves, do
not use soap; instead of that put a tea-
spoonful of ammonia in one quart of
If this way, is no
danger of there being spots and streaks
as there
be if washed
water washed there
gloves would
the
in the almost
certainly in usta
way.
To CLEAN -When painted
work is badly put a table
spoonful of ammonia water into a quart
of moderately hot water, and with the
aid of flannel wipe off the surface,
Rubbing is not necessary. When the
discoloration is not great, the following
method is preferable. With a piece of
clean flannel wet with clean, warm wa-
ter, and then squeezed nearly dry, take
up a8 much. whiting of the best quality
as will adhere, apply this with moderate
rubbing to the painted work, and after-
ward wash the surface with clean wa-
rub it dry with chamois
This method is superior to the
soap, requires but half the time
, and leaves the surface clean-
It
PAINT
discolored,
ter, and
leather,
use of
and labor
ed,
looking as good as new. will not
ate colors.
injure delic
Sentiment.
y
Jealousy is a secret avowal of
inferiority.
Ah ! if the rich were rich
fancy riches, — Ke
Nothing
moral
as the poor
FRO.
is politically right
(O° ¢
which is
v wrong, — Daniel
Onn.
The best part of the record of every
that of what he has done
for others,— Dr, George E. Ellis.
more difficult
sorrows ; the latter
the former grow upon it.
man’s life is
Cares are often
off than
$s
ime,
to throw
die with
Say nothing respecting
either good, bad or indifferent
good for that is vanity
for that is affectation ;
ent, for that is silly.
yourself,
; nothing
; nothing bad,
nothing indiffer-
To know how to say what other peo
ple only think, is what makes men poets
and sages; and to dare to say what
others only dare to think, makes men
martyrs or reformers, or both.
Although we have no faith in the
flattery, the flatterer after all attracts
us. We cannot but feel some gratitude
toward one whe takes the trouble to
lie to please us, — Marie Eschenbach.
A father may turn his back on his
child, brothers and sisters may become
inveterate enemies, husbands may de-
sert their wives, wives their husbands,
but a mother’s love endures through
all. — Washington Irving.
Home is the centre of the social SVE
tem. From it proceeds the best and
purest influence felt in the world, and
towards it gravitate the tenderest hopes
of humanity, For it all good men
labor while their working days last,
and around it their last thoughts linger
lovingly when those days are done,
WA
Brilliant Prospects.
Yesterday we met Bill Beatty with a
gripsack swinging to one of his hands,
going down Austin avenue, ** Where
are you bound for ¥’ “I'm going to
Leadville, to open an undertaker’s es-
tablishment, There is millions in it."
“You don't say so?’ “Yes my
brother has just graduated as a doctor,
He is going to practice in Leadville,
and if 1 open an undertakers establish.
ment, he will give me all his custom.
Good-bye, take care of yourself,"
The Watteau back is very much used
and wid much admired for indoor
dresses of crape, nun’s veiling, soft
and for richer dinner dresses in -
man silk and brocade,