Mrs,, Letttter
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(Copyright, J907, by the Delineator, N. Y.)
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The Graceful Figure Is Defined by the Clinging, Sheath-Lit,e Skirt.
I)o I like it? Has it come to stay?
Will it have a tremendous vogue? Will
it revolutionize
dress? Docs it
tefeg®, really possess pos
'gyjjffi / Eibilities? It is
JKM* like a game of
% **■ WuM " Twenty Q ueR "
V ✓ Wwfcm tions," is it not?
And it is a game I
have been playing
/> ever since 1 re
"'ff //If turned from the
'/it F ! other side bring
!f 112 ' ing with me a
i| H number of mod
els of the new Pa
quin skirt which have aroused a storm
of comment, curiosity and questions.
It is a beautiful skirt, I think,
though for a time I stood quite alone
in that belief. A skirt that clings
so closely to the figure that a strained
dragged effect is only prevented by
the soft folds over front and back
Introduced by the master hand of
Paquin. It is these folds, suggestive
of the lines of a habit skirt, that dif
ferentiate the Paquin model from the
familiar sheath skirt of several years
ago.
I have been so besieged with queS'
tions regarding it that it occurred to
me that this letter gave me an excel
lent opportunity to gather my
thoughts coherently together, and to
give a formulated expression of them
to all who are interested.
And that is a large number. For
when a change of this kind comes to
us—a change so startling, so radical,
so diametrically opposed to every
thing that has gone before it, the
natural psychological process is a
gradation from amused interest,
through reluctant admiration to final
enthusiastic adoption.
1 will tell you a little incident that
occurred at the time of its debut in
Paris. It was one night at Durand's.
Half the English-speaking world of
Paris goes to Durand's, and I was of
that half that night. A woman swept
across the floor to a table near the
far end of the salon. There was no
need to ask who she was.and only
the innate good breeding of the wom
en loitering over their suppers kept
a soore of lorgnettes from being raised
In her direction. Madame Paquin at
any time with her grace and beauty
is an object of interest to Parisiennes,
but Madam Paquin in a new Paqufn
creation holds an insatiable interest
for the world at large. There was no
question that night nor the next day
—when all Paris was talking of the
new Paquin skirt—of its vogue or its'
beauty. The only question every
French woman was asking herself
was, "Can I wear it?— Will it be pos
sible to adapt, it to me?"
When I returned from Paris full of
enthusiasm for the new skirt —an en
thusiasm inspired, I frankly confess,
not so much by Paquin's belief in his
own creation as by the concrete ex
ample of its effectiveness on the beau
tiful Mme. Pa-quin—my ardor was con
siderably dampened by the attitude
of unenlightened and unappreciative
America.
American women are too self-con
scious. Now I have said something
that has been on my mind for a long
time. A Frenchwoman will spend
hours on her toilette, and, when she
has , finished, her dress is complete,
perfect, a part of herself. She dis
misses it from her mind, and is no
more conscious of it than she is of the
gestures of her beautiful white hands,
or the inherited vivacity of the Gallic
race that, plays over her piquant face.
Put with us! "Are other people wear
ing it?" is the question that indicates
a subservient attitude which would
rather clothe itself in inconspicuous
mediocrity than take the risk of being
original.
And so when I presented the Pa
quin skirt there were no expressions
of delight over the possibilities un
limited which it presented as a me
dium of individuality for every wom
an.
"Oh, how very odd!" was the uni
versal comment, accompanied by a
I half-concealed smile. "It really makes
her look like a top!" and the smile
would broaden into a ripple of sheer
amused laughter, while my poor model
strode from the room indignant at the
ridicule.
And then the laughter would stop,
and the scoffer be surprised into a
half-unwilling admiration of the grace
ful, swaying figure, its beautiful son
tour outlined, defined, emphasized by
the clinging, slieath-like skirt.
The very woman who will raise an
objection to the Paquin skirt will go
to a glorious struggle with the surf,
accompanied by several men of her
acquaintance; and emerge looking like
nothing quite so much in the world
as a beautiful, unconscious sea-nymph.
Is she immodest? Certainly not one
American woman in a thousand —no,
nor one in a hundred thousand, would
call her so. Yet this same woman will
sit down and think for a long time be
fore she will commit herself to a
gown that so much as suggests the
gracious curved lines of her body.
And her French sister, who will de
plore with significant gestures of up
raised hands and shoulders the im
modesty of mixed bathing, and will
be decorously rolled to the edge of
the water in her bath wagon, will
adopt the new skirt with no compre
hension of the qualms of the Ameri
can.
Perhaps it is because I have lived so
much abroad that 1 can see more easi
ly and clearly from the French point
of view than from the American. And
then to me the possibilities of beau
ty in something new appeal most pow
erfully,
Yet in reality the Paquin skirt Is not
new, nor can we claim it as an ex
clusive invention of the twentieth cen
tury. More than 100 years ago the
French recognized its possibilities and
developed them into what have come
down to us as the Directoire styles.
Not of the skirt alone is this true,
but of the coats that accompany it.
Short-waisted affairs they are, with
full cutaway skirts, overelaborate,
fanciful if you will, but graceful and
charming nevertheless.
It may take a little time before the
American woman will give the Paquin
skirt her generous, unqualified ap
proval. Rut 1 am optimistic, and I
fimly believe that year by year we
grow in appreciation of the beautiful,
in a broader conception of the true
significance of lovely lines and colors,
and that, given time, we eventually
accept the best that is offered to us.
In reverting to this older type of
dress I can frankly say I am glad of
the change, not that I like change
merely because it means novelty, but
because I welcome it when it stands
for esthetic development.* And so I
say very emphatically that I do like
the Paquin skirt; that I hope, though
I cannot prophesy, that it will have a
long-lived vogue. Paquin has adopted
it, and Paquin leads Paris as Paris
leads the world. You and I follow, but
not, I hope, like poor stupid sheep.
Examine it for yourself, and if any
thing I can say he!ps you to view it
more intelligently and more appre
ciatively, well and good. But if your
taste and judgment reject it, my dear
madame, remember that you have
quite as good a right to your opinion
as I have to mine. Indeed, I have an
honest contempt for the woman whc
will adopt a fashion merely because it
is fashionable and decry it as hideous,
unsightly, impossible.
Velvet Medallions.
The making of tho velvet, medallion
is a thing which a woman should un
derstand if site is going to do her own
dressmaking. The medallion is shaped
like an oval or a circle, and is worked
in colored silks, and is used as a skirt
trimming. Half a dozen are placed
around the skirt at regular intervals
and connected with bands of velvet.
No dressier trimming can be found
for the suit of broadcloth.
CAMERON COUNTY PRESS, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 12, 1907.
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Advice Shower" lis Latest Nevelt y Evolved
f!b® ©f ISflide-to-IBe —
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An Advice Shower.
Quite the newest tiling for the bride
elect is the "advice" shower. Not
that the fair young creature is sup
posed to profit by it, not in the least,
for she, like the rest of us, must learn
by hard, cold experience. Such an
affair was given recently; it was a
luncheon and the young woman was
the guest of honor.
1 he hostess sent with the invitation
slips of gray paper of a uniform size,
with the request to write 11 bit of ad
vice for the bene lit of Miss 15
All the guests were married —young
matrons of about a year—and all sure
that they knew just the proper way of
managing "John," "Jim," and "Sum"
in exactly the very best way.
When all were at the table, which
was done in pink chrysanthemums,
with a great fluffy '"muni" at. each
place, the guests were asked to read
the quotations on their cards, which
all savored of love and good wishes
for the honored guest. Then, when the
wa brought in, the hostess
asked the guests to read in turn the
tulvice which they had brought. These
selections were exceedingly clever,
and kept the party in gales of laugh
ter. They were all given to the bride,
after having been slipped into a dainty
cover of tooled leather made for the
purpose.
One bride of six months had writ
ten. "Never offer to mend your hus
band k clothes or press his trousers;
if you do he will soon be asking you
to make over his whole dress suit."
Another one said; "Always play the
part of the clinging vine, for it makes
husband act the part of the sturdy
oak." One matron, quick with her
pen and wits, had written a set of
The Wife's Ten Commandments."
The "shalt nots" were roundly ap
plauded.
For Children on Sunday.
The following questions have been
asked Madame Merri: What do you
think about children having guests on
Sunday, and what can you suggest to
amuse little folks in the hour before
supper?
It is not a bad idea to let the chil
dren ask a guest or two occasionally
to share their Sunday pleasures and
the pleasant tea afterward, but as a
rule it is better to keep the day sacred
to the family, for in most families it is
generally the only day parents really
have time to devote to their children.
I heard a father say once that he did
not know how he would ever get ac
quainted with his little boy and girl if
the wise Lord had not provided Sun
day.
Not Kimonos.
Giddy as those most intimate gar
ments designed to electrify the privacy
of a woman's own boudoir are the new
evening coats. They look exactly like
kimonos. A whole menagerie of gold
dragons and purple lizards and green
snakes crawl up the back and down
the sleeves of these oriental wraps,
which are made of silks and satins, in
loose Chinese cuts, in black, buff, or
ange green, blue or white. A theater
going crowd so arrayed will bear the
aspect of a fancy dress ball.
Half-Length Coats.
For the severe tailor-made suits the
style for this fall which will he most
frequently seen is a half-length coat,
cut away sharply in front, and some
times edged with a wide silk or mo
hair braid to match the cloth. The
sleeves are full length, and a smart
touch of color is seen at the collar,
cuffs and buttons. The skirt will be
short length and plaited, though the
plain circular model also promises to
be in vogue.
Siflunipfl©
The girl and woman who wishes the touch of individuality given by her
monogram can easily embroider both her underwear and household linen
if at all clever, with her needle.
By selecting the initial of the first name and simply combining that with
the initial of the last it is not nearly so difficult to evolve one's monogram as
is generally supposed and costs nothing but the time it takes. Then use
soft filling cotton to trace the letters, using a little chain stitch to give a pad
ded look, and tho work with fine mercerized floss that comes for the purpose;
the result more than pays for the small amount of time, trouble and cost the
latter only the few cents for the working cotton.
French hand made underclothing is always attractive and expensive as
well, because of this very fashion of fine embroidering. Any girl may have
her own quite as dainty if she will. One's name in script is sometimes used"
the writing should be heavier to mak« the embroidering natural,
There are many valuable books
which will greatly assist the mother
in her entertainment for the seventh
uay, and I most firmly believe in mak
ing the day a looked-for occasion, and
just as happy as possible. Then there
is a game composed of a hundred
cards, all the questions taken from the
Bible. It is played exactly like au
thors. Pictures to bo cut out and
pasted into scrapbooks for poor sick
children is another good occupation.
Children are devoted to pastepots,
paints and scissors, and if there is a
I hand to guide, and a dear mother to
! give directions, this amusement will
fill a good share of the before-supper
hour.
Little children always love Bible
j stories, with highly colored pictures,
but a mother should exercise much
care in the reading matter, for impres
sions made now will last forever. In
fact, if the stories are told, not read,
| it is very much better. The inflexion
of the voice ind the personal interpre
tation is the most lasting in its im
pression on the eager little listeners.
The China Wedding.
After 20 years of married life the
china wedding may be celebrated.
About this time the average house
wife welcomes any addition to her
china closet, so there is no question
about appropriate gifts for the oc
casion.
There is really not much decoration
to be done except to eschew cut glass
and silver as much as possible, using
china in its place.
Doll cups or plates may be used for
almond and bon-bon holders and, if
the purse permits, a small cup and
saucer or china spoon, such as may be
found at the Japanese stores, may be
given as souvenirs. The names of the
guests can be written 011 little china
plates to use as place cards if the af
fair is a dinner or a luncheon.
I heard of one couple who celebrat
ed this anniversary by giving a Chi
nese party. The house was decorated
with lanterns, they wore costumes
made from gay Chinese cotton crepe,
and rice was served with chop sticks.
A regular Chinese supper was served,
the viands having been purchased
from a reliable chop suey place. This
was a jolly, informal affair, hugely
enjoyed by all fortunate enough to be
present. Red and yellow, the favorite
colors of the Chinese, were used in
the decorations, and "joss" sticks were
burned. These so-called joss sticks
were only the long incense sticks with
which we are wont to fight mosquitoes
in the summer time.
MADAME MERRI.
Attractions in Collars.
Dainty turnover collars were never
more popular. Although they are
seen in all varieties, perhaps the most
attractive are the hand made. The
person who is handy with the needle
may well exhibit her skill, for all
sorts of designs in needlework are em
ployed on these turnovers. Walla
chian is still popular as is also the
English eyelet. Either alone or in
combination with the solid embroidery
furnishes a multitude of designs. Col
lars designed in sage green, dull blua or
golden brown cotton are worn with a
tie correspondhig in color. Many very
elaborate collars can be made for the
small sum of 35 cents, and often much
less, and very becoming and attrac
tive. ,
Shaped Belts.
There is a decided novelty in belts
known as a shaped linen belt. They
are made in linen and silk, and come
in many oriental colors and shapes
so as to fit the waist closely.
Mnlnmieiry M<Q)dl<£§
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MAUVE VELVET
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One rather extraordinary thing to bo notod about the hols of th's season
is that the models were all originated last spring in the mushroom nhapi
and, while by now there are some few departures from thi* idea, still thu
style of the round, turned down brim is the prevailing shape for the winter.
Hats, and large hats at that, composed entirely of ostrich feathers, ar®
to be seen in the various fashionable shades, and delightfully new and de
cidedly smart are these latest models. A toque of the new bottle green
ostrich plumes, enlivened somewhat by a stiff aigrette on the left side or
a tuft of goura feathers, makes an attractive complement to a costume of
chiffon velvet of the same superb shade of green. There are also many wide
brimmed velvet, satin and felt shapes, with the crowns completely covered
with ostrich feathers, one long plume being carried about the brim, with the
tij) allowed to fall just a little over the edge on the left side. I-ong, sweeping
Gainsborough plumes are seen on a number of the large picture hats.
Visiting Costume in
Greenish Blue Cloth
The dress is in a pale greenish-blue
i fine cloth; the skirt is cut with si
I slight train, and is trimmed with
| wide silk braid the color of the cloth
j forming diamonds at regular intervals
The bodice has a round yoke com
posed of lace insertion, the material
joins the yoke without fulness undei
a trimming of the braid like the skirt
The jacket is of fine white serge
lined with silk—it is open-fronted;
the kimono sleeves and the basque
are cut with deep points, each
being finished with a silk tassel; a
pattern of line braid is worked round
the edge of jacket.
Hat of satin straw the color of the
dress, trimmed with wide ribbon and
a long ostrich feather.
Material required for the jacket: 4
! yards serge 46 inches wide, 6 yards
; lining silk and 5 silk tassels.
L^giagil
Lemon juice and sugar will clear
the voice. Singers often eat an apple
just before singing, as this helps also
to clear thhe voice.
Buttermilk used as a wash or made
into paste with talcum powder will
both prevent and cure sunburn and
hot water comes into play here also,
as it must be used when cold water
would only set the burn.
Next to water, perhaps the best fluid
complexion maker is lemon juice.
Taken internally, alone or with hot
water, it is generally beneficial; and,
externally, cut in half and the lemon,
rind and all, rubbed over the face, it
remedies sunburn and light freckles.
Women who want to be beautiful
must pay attention to their diet.
Buckets of lotions, pounds of creams
and skin foods, boxes of flesh brushes,
complexion rollers, soaps—nothing
can produce the slightest effect in
helping to give the right color and
glow to the complexion that has been
spoiled by improper food.
Did you ever notice how American
women are beginning to take on flesh
after they reach the age of 30? The
slender, aristocratic type of middle
ago seems *4 be disappearing and
obesity of grater or less proportions
is to be reckoned with and conquered
if possible, says a writer. This «e
--quires courage and self-denial, but ft
is worth while both from the stand
point of health and beauty.
I Season's Styles Are
Bemoaned by Some
(
Some of the recently imported cloth
costumes for visiting are giving great
delight to stout women, but flat chest
ed, long limbed women groan inward
ly when they see them, for the pow
ers at Paris and Vienna are devoting
their talents to the emphasizing of
elongated effects, cunningly arranging
the seams of the coats and the lines
of the skirts in ways calculated to
decrease the apparent breadth. A new
skirt which has this effect, and which
is specially in favor with smart
dressers, is the one with a central
front seam.
When bordered cloths are used for
visiting costumes the material is so
cut that the border edges the skirt
bottom, but if serge, English mixture
or plain broadcloth is used most wom
en prefer bias bands of cloth put on
to form large squares or points, their
corners emphasized with buttons or
chenille ornaments, to the absolutely
plain skirts on the same model, which
are being made up in lighter materials
for house and dinner gowns.
As to colors, the dull blues, browns
and grays which are so artistic have
always a host of adherents. Purples
are very fashionable, and so are
mauves, and there are seen any num
ber of pomegranate and prune shades,
their dullness relieved with self-col
ored velvet collars, cuffs, vests and
innumerable ornamental buttona.
Blond, one of the new light shades,
is prettiest of all in fine broadcloth,
and most effective when combined
with black velvet or dark brown fur.
One beautiful costume shown lately
Is of blond cloth, with a tunic skirt
edged with sable, a bodice of cloth
and self-colored lace, and a toga
shaped cloak of blond cloth lined with
sable. The same effect may be pro
duced for much less money by using
squirrel fur stained in sable shades
Dress of White Silk
for Child Bridesmaid
Finely spotted white silk is used for
the dress itself. The bodice is slightly
long waisted and is gathered to a
square yoke, composed of strips of the
silk finely tucked, divided by lace in
sertion; the yoke is then outlined by
a deep frill of fine net lace, headed by
narrow insertion. Frilled lace eqau
lettes fall over the silk-puffed sleeves.
The full skirt is covered by three frills
of deep lace to match that used in the
bodice.
The hat or bonnet is of white crin
oline, lined with drawn chiffon; il a
trimmed with white soft ribbon uud
ostrich feathers.
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