The Columbian. (Bloomsburg, Pa.) 1866-1910, July 23, 1896, Page 6, Image 6

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    THE COLUMBIAN, BLOOMSBURG, PA.
JHB "WORLD' OF FASHION:
ji 4 -
WQQKSTKlNS IS COWKECTIOI Wild
T-MMs irk ad or FASHION, i'
Yfc (tdllDt t otom l No tn1(UniM
wThla GooeU Ar rdpnUr The B'
Mi's Moilwl A rrli D(lga Cloth
EVEH 'M th outing
town a mora neceesary
ipart of a woman's outfit
than thin waeon. It la
to be a summer Of "out-
lings," one might My,
nor, with the increased
nterpst In the bicycle.
L'jolfinff, and other out-
.door sport, the Ameri
can woman la develop-
fee a love for the open a4r that la really
na of the most commendable of hei
any Rx4 points of character.
A charmingly smart outing gown hftl
skirt made In the most volumlnoiu
trie of lltfht-welght cheviot, in paK'
tui Md cnild-blue plaid. It ll llnetf
throughout with fibre chamois, Riving
th skirt a splendid stiffness not likely
to diminish. The Jacket is a Jaunty
taSM of a thins;, scarcely more than a
sound bodice. The tails are so short
tltere Is no dang-er of their becoming
Battened and crushed, as ripples are
o apt to do. i i
! This Jacket Is made up of the softest
bade of pale cadet-blue broadcloth,
cut mortt gracefully, and with all the
earns oiped with white cord. Xhere
-""'n-gttfc a
A Sweet Outing Rig.
re sharp-pointed cuffs and collar ot
white broadcloth, and a turned-back'
acln of white at the front. Double
sows of small pearl buttons ornament
the fronlt. This gown Is worn with a
Mousey front of cream white silk, belt
d about with a white kid belt. )
Thin goods grenadines, slbellnes,
fcrllllantlnes, mohairs, goathalrs and -v-n
haircloth, for some of these so-called
grass cloths bear family resemblance
to the haircloth with which our gowns
iiave been lined for the past two ot
three years are ' popular. There are
two prln. ary rules that the materiali
shall be tiuiinparent, end also have
.what Is known as "body" to them; In
other word a. have sufficient stiffness to
Hare out in the unpraceful folds which
are declared to be the correct thing.
And tho second little poliilt to be ro
membered In these charmingly trans
parent materials Is that the linings
which usually are of silk cost as much,
If not more, than the outer part. For
tunately, lining's and uppers do not
Med to be of the same shade of color,
so there is no necessity for one of those
fearful (Jays of chasing from shop to
shop to mntrh a shade.
The colors that are combined would,
tn any but this poster age, drive us all
quite mad, but now we submit to wmr
Ing purp!oand gTeen, blue and helio
trope, yellow aaid orange, and console
ourselves with the thought that If out
sense of what we used to consider ar
tiatlc, coloring Is outraged, at all events
iwe are in the fashion. i
f New York receives new designs con
stantly from Paris, and, it must be
added, turns out, from its own shops
as dlalnty costumes as eye can wkh to
dwell upon. Fashions in dress are nev
er so fusclTmtlnig or quite so tantaliz
ing s they ore ait this time of year
when with the first premonition of
summer they blossom out like flowers'
In such rapid succession that any sat
isfactory nekctUon amid so many pret
ty tttyles seems to be a difficult task.
This season surpasses all others in the
variety of modes and all their elegant
accessories, which are certainly the
dominating feature of the present fash.
Jons, and we can only wonder what
1ll coma next and tentatively oonsld-
ltUio Cloth Gowns,
er each new suggestion as it may ap
ply to our special neods. Individuality
in dress has a wide field In the midst
of all this protunion, and the woman
iwho ils fortunate enough to irossi sa (rood
taiite can surely make a fasMonatilo
a well as artistic success of her sum
mer outfit. With the diminished sleeve,
which is .the most marked charaetfr
Istlo of the cr-rlng fashions, and the
modenUoly full skirts, exaggeration
stems to have ceased, and "the outlines
of fuRlilmi were never prattler thnn
they ara now. The best flttlntr skirts
are cut v.'ltl.i.iit the eoilct ttiYr.t in
front, fit rUtoly around the hip.:, u-iih
all the ff.lrktsc at the hcult cither rnth
ered or k:i in ithrvi- 1,1.x puats t tlie
(TvaUt, i.:.a ilcte out pr. uily ill around
the bottom. The new sleeve bIiow.i nn
IVjuUa variety, and JJiay be fc4Cwy
ttowut,
1 WLKJS' !
IV-v A
,whlat th wearer ot the dressmaker
chooses to have it, either small or me
dium rarge.
A late I'arls design, by Doucet, Is of
bright blege cloth and mauve taffeta.
The dress is decorated with applica
tions of flowers In white and mauve
cloth, embroidered with white, mauve
and green silk, wlith branches of th
same shades. Each flower Is bordered
with a gather of purl, placed upright.
The skirt Is flat in front and at the
sides, and the four godets are thrown
behind. The body Is of mauve taffetas,
gathered and blouse shaped in front.
The back Is made of small stitched
pleats, forming small acute angles, al
ternating with narrow cream Mechlin
Voce, gathered. The front Is trimmed
In the some manner. It opens over a
broad satin ribbon, covered with a
tight drapery of cream Mechlin tulle.
The waistband Is of white satin, wider
behind than in front, and ending in
front In two rosettes. The neck trim
ming is of mauve taffetas, covered with
mauve tulle and fastened in front with
a large tulle bow of the same color.
It is orravmented by a collarette of
white tulle frilling. The sleeves, which
are of mauve taffeta, Illustrate the de
cline of the big sleeve. They are very
moderate In size, plain on the under
side, and trimmed with stitched pleats
and Mechlin lace alternately on the
upper side, from above the elbow.
Cloth gowns are conspicuous. The
smooth face cloth Is the most popular,
while covert coating will be as much
worn this spring as ever. The skirts
remain quite plain, and the godet plaits
are already out of fashion, as they
spoil 'the figure, being unbecoming alike
to thin and stout people. The trim
bodices often have white cloth or silk
lapels, collar and cuffs either plain or
braided In a mixed black and blue cord.
Open fronts are coming In again for
coats; they are too good an excuse for
dainty vests to remain very long out
of favor. The newest style of vest la
of white satin or cloth made with Just
a little fullness. This is embroidered
in steel or gold beads in floral design,
entwined with a narrow lace insertion,
simulating ribbon.
White serges and twilled flannels de
pend upon a colored blouse and yellow
shoes for their effect. The fancy of
the moment in blouse fronts is for
stripes.
In the kingdom of hats and gowns of
ceremony, as the French say, it is al
most dangerous to enter. Never were
the efforts of the milliners more elabo
rate or expensive.
The shapes are In general ot two
kinds, the turban and the flat hat, with
broad brim that turns up in the back.
It Is a trying style for girls with round
facos, because they can find solace in
neither. Hats with Tarn O'Shanter
crowns are quite common. Colored
straws are very fashionable and the
favorite tints are bright yellow, green
and violet, either In solid colors or in
combination wilth black. In trimmings
the popular flowers seem to be "roses
red and violets blue," only the roses
may be blue and the violets red, with
out any outrage to art as expressed In
millinery. It Is remarkable what li
cense is allowed the manufacturers of
artificial flowers.
Womou'l Student Lite at Oxford,
Sport, however, Is not the only form
of recreation at Somervllle and Lady
Margaret. There are the debates be
tween the halls, and the Shakespeare
societies, little teas In the girls' own
rooms for special chums, more general
at homes throughout the winter, and
garden parties and all sorts of gayetles
during the closing week of the summer
term, when the lists are read and hon
ors awarded. Girls may also receive
visitors of cither sex In reasonable
numlicis, and ure often allowed to dine
out with a friend or be otherwise en
tertained In htr house; but that same
friend may not come for her to chap
eron her elsewhere. A chaperon pro
vided by the hall docs that.
Each hall also maintains a miniature
society, governed by the strictest rules
of etiquette as regards calls and enter
taining among the students. The
"Ireshy" must conduct herself with
meekness and lowliness of spirit. Nev
er may Bhe dare call on a senior be
fore that senior has seen fit to call upon
her and "take her up" In polite society.
Moreover, this grave and reverend sen
ior may leave her card if the "freshy"
is out; but the "freshy" may never
leave a card under any circumstances,
but must keep on calling In return un
til she finds the senior In; to leave her
card only would be unparalleled pre
sumption. Neither may any freshman
presume to entertain, to Invite a dinner
companion, or, in fact, tender an invi
tation of any sort or kind, unless an in
timate friendship Intervenes to suspend
these laws of social life. No seniors
are ever, ever asked to meet "freshles,"
and if "freshles" are to be present at
any "spread" or spree the seniors are
so advised beforehand, that they may
stay away if It bo pleases them. In
short, the freshman's social standing
might be termed a modern reproduction
of that of the medieval Jew shunned,
snubbed and looked down upon, or
treated with the lofty condescension of
a bare and meagre toleration. Harper's
Bazar.
The Feet la Hammer.
When midsummer heat descends upon
the community even the sisterhood that
scorns all but common sense shoes suf
fers. Heavy boots are out of the ques
tion, and thin-soled ones do not seem
to afford sufficient protection to the in
flamed feet. Nothing but constant care
will save one from the tender mercies of
the chiropodist. The feet should be
bathed at night in water as hot as can
be borne. This will reduce the swelling
and allay the inflammation. Then they
Bhould be Immediately plunged Into
cold water to harden the skin. If they
are still sore they should be rubbed with
witch hazel. In the morning, of course,
they should receive another cold-water
bath. These cure for, and preventives
of. swollen feet are particularly valu
able for the woman who has to stand
much during the day.
l or Nhnhby lloou.
It does not taiio long for a par of boots
that are worn constantly to get so
I'lihliby that frequent blacking seems
powerless to restore tln-lr freshness.
Tin n Is the time to rut off all the old
lut'tons rind put on a set of bright, new
cms. Khoe lutllni are not an expen-i-ive
li.iuiyi nnil yet they are a pet
i"'"H"riy with the majority of wouii-n
ami do mui It to restore thu fri-shiies
of old siloes.
Hose Eeels for Et-gioes.
It is announced that the Pennsyl
vania company is about to equip ils
yard engines with a hose reel, ard
they will be fitted up with connections
so that water can be forced to a con
siderable distance by means of the
pumps. The hose can be also used
where there are fire plugs and in this
manner the yard crews can success
fully fight fires at stations, bridges,
platforms cr in suburban towns where
there are no fire apparatus. Uy means
of telegraph the engine crews could
be notified of a fire in an instant, and,
by clearing the track of other trains a
fast run could be made and much
valuable property save
There is a township in Dauphin
county in which there are 254 inhabi
tants, according to the past census,
and fifty voter;. In that tow.iship
ihere is no minister, no church, no
Sabbath school, no lawyer, no justice
of the peace, no industrial work of
any kind, and no place where liquor
is sold. There are three grocery
stores and one school house. When
the people want to attend church they
have to cross the river into Terry
county and walk to Duncannon. The
township is Reed. The people are
lawabiding and peaceable. There has
been but one case in the criminal
court from that township in the past
twenty-five years. There is not
another townsnip like it in the whole
United States.
Philadelphia's biggest taxpayer is
the Pennsylvania .Railroad. The
company's taxes for 1896 amount to
$261,025.43. This represents a val
uation of about $20,000,000 on f'ie
.eal estate in the city owned by the
company. Most of this pa; s taxes at
,.he full city rate, and but a'small por
tion is assessed at the two-thirds su
burban rate. The Broad street station
and the elevated structure to t'ie
Schuylkill are assessed at $3,228,000,
the old Thirty-second and Market
streets property at 2,000,000, the
old Navy Yr d at $1,010,000, the
abandoned Fourth street offices, whic'i
were formerly assessed at $400,000,
at $200,000, and the Philadelphia
Wilmington & Baltimore station at
Broad street and Washington avenue
at $406,000.
A Thorough Investigation.
It is rumorek that the commission
appointed by tht Governor to investi
gate the Pittstou m' ie horror is to be
supplemented by an additional section
of three skilled miners whose knowl
edge of the ramifications of the ill
fated twin shaft mine, should be par
ticularly complete, as they were for
years employed as miners in the snaft.
The authorities it would seem are de
termined to make a thorough and ex-
naustive investigation. Place the
blame of disaster where it rightfully
belongs and devise means it possible
to prevent a recurrercc cf ..'milar dis
asters throughout the coal region.
Tons of Pish at a Haul.
Very successful catches of striped
bass., or rock fish, have been made at
Havre de Grace the past few days.
A s all seine at Popular Point, which
is near Carpenter's Point, made a haul
and drew in a ton of beautiful fish,
weighing from 7 to 15 pounds each.
It is not an infrequent thing to see a
"school" of several tons of fish ne-"
Popular Point during July and August
approach the shore, and if not dis-tu-bed
wallow alone the shore l;Ue a
herd of hogs.
Snake Pound In a Hen's Egg.
While prenarina the morninu mea'
a domestic in the employ of Major J.
ii. iobb ' Ooshen, Ind., discovered
in a large egg which she had jrt
broken one of the greatest curiosities
in the shape of a light-colored snake
about foi inches long, which soon
showed signs of life, and is alive and
doing well. The truth of the story is
verified by some of the best citizens
of the town, who were called in as
witnesses. Chicago Times-Herald.
for Preserving Flowers.
One having a fancy for preserving
natural flowers may do so by dipping
them into me'.ted paraffin. The mix
ture should be only warm enough to
remain fluid. Hold the flowers by the
stems, which should be free from all
except the natr-al moistr-e, dip them
in the fluid, give them a quick turn to
remove the a;- cells, and place them
in a glass until the coating becomes
firm.
Firet-Olass Job Printing.
The Columbian offifce is the best
equipped printing office in Columbia
county, and is run by water power.
Any khd of printing, from a visiting
card to a three-sheet po-ter, is done.
All kinds of colored work, and the
1 t of type used. We do our work
. ::it and clean, on good paper, and
gua-antee it. Our prices r-e as low
as in the lare cities. We have . .e
f. cil'tien, consequently c:"i r yea
money. Cm.e to lue Coi.ummam
office first and ct C- ' rKc before
p'.;.'.;ng yet - oulcis.
HERE'S A SOOUL TANGLE-
Thousands ot Kansas Divorces Ara Found
to Be Illegal.
Unanimous decision rendered by
the Kansas Court of Appeals has
declared ineffective the law under
which divorces have been granted in
that State for the past 25 years. During
that period from 35,000 to 50,000
divorces have been granted in Kansas
Courts, all of which are probably llle
gal. The marital and property rights
involved are so great that the news of
the decision has excited extraordinary
interest and apprehension, leading, as
it will, to confusion in the adjustment
of estates and the rights and custody
of the children of litigants.
Lawyers in New York city annre
hend that the decision will cause an
almost endless amount of confusion
in marital relations, in the relations of
children to parents, and in the custody
and disposition of property rights. If
such a decision should be given in
reference to the decrees of divorce
which have been Granted in OkL
homa and the Dakotas in the past
lew years, it would cause a veritable
revolution among the many well-known
(amines in the hast.
Kansas has never been a favorite
State for outsiders to tro to to pet
vorces, as since 1881 its divorce law
has required an actual residence of
the applicant for at least one year
before the beginning of the action. In
other respects, the divorce law of
....
ivansas is an easy one lor litigants.
P)ivorces are granted there for aband
onment for one year j for extreme
cruelty, and extreme neglect of duty,
besides the more serious causes.
There is one clause of the Kansas
law which in itself would make it un
popula. with many who want divorces.
It makes it bigamy for divorced per
sons to re-mairy within six months of
the date of the decree against them.
Nearly all the decrees of divorce
granted in Kansas have, therefore,
been presumably to its ow.i residents
but that other persons than actual
residents of Kansas will bp aflVrtprl hv
the decision there can be no doubt.
Many of the divorced nprsnns h.ivp
moved away from their former homes
1 ...
anu remarneo, ana some of their
children can nrobablv be found in
almost every State in the Union.
Every lawyer who was asked about
the matter snoke of it ns 9 vprv
grave situation. "It is a very serious
matter, indeed." said Frederic R. C.
Coudert ; "it will affect the present
mamai relations of the parties to the
divorce suits, makinc their new m.im.
ages illegal, perhaps depriving their
children of letritimaev and rlistnrViinrr
the property interests of many families.
-ii me aecis'on is based upon the
imperfections of some matter of nrr.
cedure, then, perhaps, the troubles
causeu ny u may be remedied, but if
it is based upon the unconstittulona
llty of the law itself, then I do not see
how it can be remedied.
"In that case, the whole of the de
crees which have been issued under
the law will stand as if tliev hnd nVr
been issued. Therefore, the people
were married belore the decrees
were issued will be married now ; new
marriages will be void j it will be un
lawful for the counles to cmtinue tn
live together, and children born of
mese new marriages will be illegiti
mate. "Even the Legislature, in that rase.
will be unable to straighten out mat
ters. It cannot impair the rights of
mc oaier contracts nor deprive the
people who would have acnuirerl nro.
perty rights of the older contracts, nor
deprive the people who would have
acquired property rights under the old
conuiuon 01 tilings, ot these rights.
It could mitigate the evils which
would be produced by upsetting such
a io..g une oi legal action, but not
cure them."
Just how manv nersons will ne
affected by the decision must be a
matter of conjecture. When the
cs..fus of 1890 was taken it gave the
total population of Kansas as 1,427,
095 persons. Of these 752,112 were
males and 674,984 females. Of the
males 469,428 were unmarried, 263,-
174 married, 10,991 widowed and
1756 divorced.
Of the females t78.ooo were m.irr:.
ed, 263,506 were single, 29,680 were
widowed ana 21 17 divorced.
This made a total of divorced per
sons living in the State of 3873, but
this does not include the large num
ber who have been divorced and then
remarried. Nor does it frtve anv
guide to the number of children of
two generations, at leasf,, who have
been bom as the result of these re
marriages. The proportion of di
vo ed males in Kansas is as 1 to 428
of the whole number, and of females
as 1 to 3T,,. Ex.
To Build a New Daai,
A new water dam will be hnilt in
the ner- future between Centralia and
Mt. Ca-mel, and will have a two-fold
purpose as its object. It will l ,,:,!
m Summer for bathing, and in Winter
lets of ice will betaken from there.
Capita''sts now have thesubj-ct under
consideration and in a few days their
p "-.'s wi be consumated.
1 a IS I
5 AmmrEJfM 5&3fiV
9 r&jz&r
"The North Pole
ft
Always at the front and wherever
"BATTLE AX" goes it is the
biggest thing in sight It is as re-
S markable for its fine flavor and quality
as for its low price A 5 cent piece
of "BATTLE AX" k almost
I large as a 10 cent
g -n. , o
Mutual Reserve ki Life Association,
Edward B. Harper, Founder.
FIFTEEN YEARS COMPLETED
ANNUAL
Th3 hrpl ni Um him L:!: Insurance G::-
pamss m ml
$69,000,000 of New nuilneHM in 1893.
e.ioh, 660,000 of HiiHiiieHH in Force,
4,08 1.07.1 ot Dentlt Claim pntu In 1805. '
85,000,000 oi Death CiulniM paid mnce UumIii-nhIckuii.
1893 SHOWS AN INCRKAHIi ITS
Ai INCHKAHlv I!M IP4COMI-:,
AN INCItlCAHi; IN ni'HINHO.Sf IN FORCF,
OVKH 105,800 Ml-;.MI!lvKb I?S'ri;il.iL;'l l.l.
The Annual Mectin? of
Association WHS lipid in tli
in
Broadway ADuane St., New York City, on Wednesday, Jim-
ii.i.. 1 i .I, 1
uary --du, anu was auenuea
gathering of policy holders who
1. - 1 1 A 1 T" . I
me masterly annual report oi i'rcsiaent uurnnam.
Manv Doliev holders evidentl vvno-nrdpil tliis nan fnvornlile
opportunity to meet face to face the new chief executive officer
of the Association, President Frederick A. Uurnham, the man
w linen rrrnoii nPliPn 1 1 1 c 1 1 . n o 1 . l-n,-. -1..!.. 1 . Tl ! r. n n
strong individuality have enabled him to take up the Tvork laid
dewn in death by the founder of the institution, the late Ed
ward B. Harper, and make of the administration of his ofliceof
resident, not an echo or copy ol that of his predecessor, out a
piece of finished work, characteristic of a man of independent
Views, and WOrtll V tn follow tlifi wnrtr irlii-.li Viarl rarn'nd the
Association to a position never
rare, indeed, that a great institution like this passes, without
check to its prosperity, through a change in the executive chief,
for it is rare indeed that a chief like the late Mr. Harper find
so able a successor as President Burnham. '
The record of the year 1805 speaks for itself, aud shows the
following gratifying results;
ine UltUbS AbiSKllS have increased during the year
from 55,530,115.09 to $5,001,707,82.
Tim NT-T RTTT? pt .T Tsi nm i;i.:i:t:n, i.. xn?TnATN
for the year of $300,320.43, and
ue j.iNui.vui( irom an sources shows a gam tor the yew
of $031,541.07, and amounts to $5,575,281.50.
DEATH CLAIMS to the amount of $4,084,074.92 were
paid during the year,, an increase over the previous year of
$1,013,500.91.
The BUSINESS IN FORCE shows a train for the year
of $15,203,205, and now amounts to $308,059,371.
counting three hundred working days in the year tue
daily average income for 1895 ia$ 18,584. 27; the daily average
payments for death claims, $13,052.25, and the daily av'ag6
cam in business in force within n fraMinn nf 51 OOO
2es?n.sclesi.rinB insurani:e. agency, or any other information concerning Jtl
TUAL RESERVE FUND 1 .1 W ieu.i'iiTinv - " "
- - - . .j ..i i .
53 Downing Illock,
The Pot Called the Kettle
Because the Housewife
Didn't Use
SAFOLI
made use of at last' $
piece of any other
;
Frederick A. Burnhain, President.
MEETING AND REPORT.
CJROSS AHSJ-.TH,
the Mutual
Reserve Fund Life
A psnnifif inn'a 'Rnildmr' i-nrtli'I
by a large ana representative
listened with keen interest to
- 1 . T- 1
attained in the same length oi
now amounts to $3,582,509.32.
(I'-
i i i v.i may npj'iy
(ifj
ERIE, PA.
Black