- mmm y tn ce So A I - ———
: . sagged and he suffered from severe Simple that anyone should be able stomach goes out, which shows that it: Lie flat on your back on the - ~ FOR ‘AND ABOUT WOMEN."
: leg pains, He had developed a high to follow them, However, in my you are breathing from .. the “lower floor - hands to your sides, “Place a . ~~ LK rT nT TE
Demorralic atch, right hip and high right shoulder as private Pea 1 have found dia 30 SBIEERE: 8. Habit t you should: not ; stove Nig: or fiat bok © op. the “ab. > Daily “Thought. ee
ped) : " ‘a result of working with his right grams ful, and have supplied cultivate. = ~~ °° domen. Your assistant .should.press y is Born Into t .
rE —= hand and keepng' his left foot benind fhousands of pers ons With - these TE Ee Live pelow are Sowu on the lid or book. until from Ne Cn ee Ym
January 1930. his right the greater part of the charts free of Cost. * .. _.. practiced conscientiously for a few ten to twenty pounds have been a
_Belicfonte, Pay oe m—— 5 time, ii pe One sueuber k my training class’ weeks” when % Fe “are walking, you brought to bear. .Your part is to BOL Dorn. With him;. There is glvays
His trouble had become so acute was a lawyer fifty years old who 11 pro y f yourself breathing lift and lower the weight on your f
THE PATH OF LIFE that he could work only in snatches, When ke came, had a Jendency to regularly in a narmal way. tae siomen by JBusCHlar gHfot. Heise: 2" 19018 to work wilhal, for Mose-Whe
twenty minutes at a and dur- Carry head down. He made a s you put your oot out, t ower. fourteen times, Rest :
Thole 18 en Y po. = pan tite ing this short interval, order to get Practise of “wearing” his hands in a Eo deep = inhalation, ome that fifteen seconds, 8% the exer." Plested afeitis homiy ends of iis
And many a tone from the bitter land,
If the querulous heart would make it.
To the soul that is full of hope,
And Whose beautiful trust ne'er faileth
The grass is green and the flowers are
bright,
Though the winter storm prevaileth.
Better hope when the clouds hang low,
And to keep the eyes still lifted,
For the sweet blue sky will soon peep
through
When the ominous clouds are rifted,
There ne'er was a night without a day,
Or an evening without a morning.
And the darkest hour, as the proverb
goes,
-Is the hour before the dawning.
There is many a gem in the path of life,
Which we pass in idle pleasure,
That is richer far than the jeweled crown
Or the miser's board of treasure,
It may be the love of a little child,
Or a mother’s prayer to heaven,
Or only a beggar's grateful thanks
For a cup of water given.
_ Better to weave in the web of life
A bright and golden filling,
And to God's will bow with a ready heart,
And hands that are swift and willing,
Than to snap the delicate innate thread,
Of our curious lives asunder,
And then blame heaven for the tangled
ends,
And sit and grieve and wonder.
HOW TO WALK, STAND, SIT AND
BREATHE
Mr, McGovern, who was formerly
physical director and instructor at
Cornell University Medical College,
is one of the foremost experts on ex. |
ercise in the United States. He con-
ducts the McGovern Gymnasium, in
New York City, where he specializes
on physical training for the correc-
tion of intestinal and other functional
defects due to faulty habits, In this
article he gives many of the exer-
cises used in his practice for the.cor-
rection of defects in posture.
Which Shoe Do You Put on First?
—“Bad posture is largely a matter
of habit,” says Mr, McGovern. The
chances are that every morning
when you dress you put on the same
shoe first. Most right-handed men
step into their trousers with the left
first. The right-handed person stoops
to pick up things with his right hand
about ninety-nine times out of a
hundred. In many other ways the
right-handed man tends to develop
his right side more than his left, By
following for years a certain habit,
which was harmless to begin with,
you can acquire round shoulders a
high shoulder, or displace some of
your vital organs, Sitting down
seems harmless enough but many of
us. sit in such contorted positions
that we impair our health. It is
particularly harmful to slump down
on your backbone and curl your feet
tightly up under you, as many peo-
ple do. Even the habit of keeping
one’s legs crossed may have bad ef-
fects,”
Some months ago a broker who
had been suffering fo six or seven
years from headaches, vertigo and
nervousness, was sent to an ortho-
pedic specialist. Previously the brok-
er had consulted specialists for the |
stomach and heart, but there was
nothing wrong with him oganically, |
though his symptoms
very stubborn.
Except when he was on his feet
on the floor of the Exchange, from
ten until three, he had been getting
no exercise. He had acquired a ner-
vous habit of standing with his heels
together and his toes out and,
in this position, he would flex his
knees and continually raise and low-
er himself, When he walked, he toed
out, :
At night he was kept awake by
pains in his neck and
blades, and he had formed the habit
of sleeping on two or three pillows
as he had found that in this way
the strain was sometimes taken from
the muscles and nerves that pained
him.
had proved
The foot specialist sent the brok-
er to me to see if his arches could
be built up. I found that he did not
have broken arches, but that they
were in a weakened condition owing
to inadequate exercise and to the
long-continued wrong use of the
muscles of his leg, His whole car- |
riage had sagged, He walked, stood,
sat, and breathed incorrectly.
It was necessary to put this man
through correctional exercises, not
only for flat feet but for the whole
body, so that he might acquire
strength and energy to carry himself
properly. At the end of two weeks
he was sleeping on one pillow and
had gained four and a half pounds
in weight, In two months he had
gained ten pounds, his chest expan-
sion had increased, and his posture
had greatly improved. Instead of
sagging as he walked or sat, he held
his head up so that his chin was in
a line with his chest. ;
Now when he walks to and from
work, he toes in slightly, with heels
out, He breathes once more freely
and naturally where formerly he
took his oxygen by panting three or
four times. On the floor of the Ex-
change, instead of flexing his knees,
he does one of his flat-foot exercises.
it is a very simple one—rising on
the toes, he rolls on the outside of
his feet, coming down on his heels
so as to perform a complete circle
with both feet from toe to heel.
... Anyone suffering from weak arches
or flat feet will find this exercise
gives a measure of instant relief. It
brings into play muscles which are
not sufficienly used By the person
who walks incorrectly, and relieves
the muscles that have been subject
to strain,
co Another patient sent to me by a
physician was a magazine illustrator
;forty-nine years of age. His work
...required him to stand before his can-
‘vas seven or eight hours a day. He
had acquired the habit of putting his
weight solidly on one foot, which, as
he walked, would be several inches
behind the other. His arches had
shoulder |
relief, he had to walk back and forth
in front of his canvas. Arch sup-
ports in his shoes had only aggra-
, vated his condition.
The illustrator’s arches had sag-
ged and weakened, but his was not
‘a true case of flat foot, The trou-
{ble in his case, too, was the result
“of incorrect standing and walking, I
i gave him leg exercises, handball, and
bicycle riding, and taught him how
to stand and walk, just as though he
{| were learning these things for the
{first time. By the end of a month
| he was working as usual. He gained
“in weight and his chest measurement
{| went from thirty-four to thirty-sev-
; en inches,
One of the most important things
the illustrator learned was to stand
| on both feet and toe in slightly. You
will find that when you toe in, your
| carriage
{ without a deliberate effort you can-
not carry the weight of your body
{on one foot.
Weakness in the arches, a condi-
ition which may eventually lead to
flat feet, is a very common trouble.
In most cases it is due to incorrect
use of the legs and feet, It is espe-
cially common among people who sit
at their work, the trouble arising
both from inadequate exercise and
use of the leg muscles when
they do walk,
More than any other one class,
waiters suffer from flat foot. The
reason in their case is that carrying
trays causes them to “flounder.”
With their toes out they shuffie or
flop along, with no spring in their
steps. Those of us who, as we walk,
throw the weight of our bodies on
the inside instead of the outside of
the feet soon acquire the habit of
floundering.
This floundering is especially com-
mon among fat people, and men and
women who are merely what we call
heavy-set. It is due not to the
weight of their bodies, but to incor-
rect ideas as to how to walk.
Probably you can remember that,
when you were a child, some well-
intentioned member of your family
kept coaxing you to “toe out,” and
perhaps you were made fun of for
walking ‘“pigeon-toed.” It is true
that most children, as well as grown-
ups, if not schooled in proper car-
riage develop harmful habits, How-
ever, the instinct of children to toe
in is more in accord with the proper
method of walking than the acquir-
ed habit of toeing out.
The correct way to walk is with
the feet parallel, or even with the
toes turned in a fraction of an inch.
To see for yourself the different ef-
fect of toeing out and toeing in, try
this experiment: Stand, for a half-
minute, with your heels together,
and your toes out, Then part your
heels, turn your toes in—and feel
how your arches come up!
Toeing out causes the weight of
| the body to come on the inside in-
| stead of the outside of the feet. Be-
i sides causing arch trouble, it tends
to make you knock-kneed. It upsets
ithe carriage to such an extent it
! may be a factor in causing intestin-
‘al or stomach trouble, and hollow
| chest. The person who has always
! walked with toes
ries himself incorrectly in other re-
spects,
| Recently the “attention” position
{ has been changed at West Point in
keeping with what we now know to
i
is not (likely to sag, and P
pockets, I remember the first
day he came to the gymnasium, He
asked for me and stood beside a
desk in my office waiting until I
came; head down, hands in pockets,
weight on one foot and his mind far
away.
In his case, improper posture had
caused the development of severe
intestinal trouble. His colon had
been pushed down and adhesions
had developed, He was given a
course of exercises in the nas-
jum to raise his stomach and large
intestine and special mild exercises
for. use in his own home to develop
his back and chest, He learned to
carry himself correctly before he
left, and with that change there
came a great relief in his condition.
Partly to stimulate him to remem-
ber his old defects in posture, and
artly as a tonic for the muscles he
was likely to neglect, I gave him
for use in his home certain wall ex-
ercises. These are printed later on
in this article,
Defective posture often begins to
appear in a man at the age of thirty
or thirty-five. He shows a tendency
to droop on one side or the other
when standing. The result is that
the muscles on one side are stretch- |
ed, while those of the other side
deteriorate. ‘When he. has so. stood -
for some time, he begins ~ to walk
that way, and will acquire the habit
of taking a somewhat longer step on
the drooping shoulder side.
The wall exercises I give are de-
signed to correct the tendency of
people to slouch when standing and
walking, If you have no physical
defect, and yet take a longer step
on one side than on the other, it
is because you have become addict-
ed to a slouching posture.
‘el with your shoulders. Keeping: your ;
out usually car-'
be the right methods of standing and’
walking. Now, when at attention,
[the West Pointers stand with their
| feet parallel, instead of, as formerly,
{ with their heels together and their
toes out. Their hands are now held
at the side with palms back which
is a natural position, without the
| strain of the old position, when the
! palms were held against the sides
| of the legs.
{ If you have been suffering from
i flat foot make a practice of toeing
'in when walking, In some severe
| cases it may also be advisable to
have your shoemaker cut out for
you a piece of leather in the form
of a quarter-circle that will reach
{from the back of the big toe to the
| point where the arch rises. Wear
| this on the inside of the shoe in the
position indicated. It will make you
! throw your weight on the outside of
| the foot and will raise your arch.
The exercises for flat foot and
| weakened arches will be most bene-
| ficial if practiced without - shoes,
| They are:
1. Stand with feet parallel. Turn
over so that you are standing on the
outside edges of your feet, the soles
of your feet “facing” each other as
nearly as possible. In doing so, keep
knees stiff, Repeat ten times.
2 Toes in, heels out. Rise on toes
and come down without touching the
floor with the heels, Ten times,
3. Toes in, heels out, Rise on the
toes. Come down so as to form a
circle with the outside edge of the
feet from toe to heel. Ten times,
4, Cross feet, left foot on right
side, right foot on left side, so that
toes and heels are on parallel lines.
With legs rigid, rock sidewlise from
left to right. Ten times.
5. Knees stiff feet parallel. Walk
on the toes without bending the
knees, for one minute.
6. Feet parallel. Walk on the out-
side of the feet without bending the
knees, One minute.
7. Left foot straight. Bring right
heel in front of left toe so as to
form half of a perfect square, the
right toe pointing left. After taking
position make legs rigid and bend
body straight forward. Raise right
toe as far as possible, keeping heel
to the floor.
8. Repeat Exercise No. 7 with left
foot.
9. Feet parallel. Bring toes and
heels together as far as possible,
making an effort to grip with them.
Keep knees stiff, Ten times.
10, Walk up and down, toeing in
as far as possible. One minute or
more.
These exercises have proved of
great value in many cases of arch
This exercise will help you correct
the habit of taking unequal steps:
Lie on your back so that, with your
knees bent, your feet are against
the wall. Keeping your feet to the
wall, push back so that you rock to
and fro, the weight of your body
shifting, as you rock, from your hips
to your shoulders, This is merely ,
to show you the motion of the exer-
cise. The exercise itself requires
you to rock by pushing with one
foot at a time. Push most with the
foot with which you take the longer
step when you walk, That is,
raises the chest but does not force
the stomach out. Exhale as your
left foot comes forward a second
time, This method of breathing
should be followed regularly at least
twice a day for periods of ten to fif-
teen minutes at a time.
The following breathing exercises
are for use in the home:
Stand with feet parallel, chin,
chest, and toes in a straight line,
hands at the side, palnfs back,
Breathe in slowly, turning palms
back. Breathe in slowly, turning
palms forward. When the lungs are
fully dilated count five slowy. Then
exhale, turning palms back, Count
five before inhaling again. Repeat
from ten to fifty times,
It is a good practice to do breath-
ing exercises just after waking,
while lying in bed in the morning.
This is the method:
Flat on your back, Palms down
to start. Deep slow inhalations,
Raise chest high, bringing abdomen
in and turning palms up, while
keeping the shoulders to the bed.
Hold until you have counted five,
Then inhale and so on, Ten to fif-
ty times.
Some time ago the vice president
of a big New York public utilities
corporation came to me and com-
plained of a pain in his neck. He
was sixty “years.old. - The pain he
said, had become as sharp as a
toothache: and was reaking it im-
possible for him to work at a desk.
I gave him a pen and paper and
asked him to write out in full what
he had told me about his trouble.
When he began to write, I left the
room, and stayed just long enough
to let him settle down and take
the position which it was natural
for him to take at a desk. On
coming back I found him writing
away with his head hanging down
and tipped slightly to one side. It
was easy to see how his neck mus-
cles had come to lose their tone;
but he was unconscious that he had
developed such a confirmed habit
until it was called to his attention.
Exercises for his neck relieved him
of the pain in three days; but to
tone up his muscles and get his
circulation in good order required
deveral months.
The habit most people acquire
when sitting is to let one shoulder
if your low shoulder is on the left and side fall lower than the other.
so that you take a longer stride This causes the chest to sag also.
with your left leg, push fifty times The man who sags on the left side
with that as against ten times oh while sitting is apt to keep his left
the right ‘side,
The following exercises are to cor-
rect round shoulders, low shoulders,
curvature and flat chest when these
have developed from a slouching
posture:
1, Stand facing the wall, feet par-
allel, both arms extended so your
palms are against the wall on a lev-
-
heels to the floor, let your body come
forward until your chest and chin
touch the wall. Push back from the
wall and take a deep inhalation, As
you return to starting position, with
your palms, chin, and chest against
the wall, exhale, Repeat ten times.
Be sure:to keep your heels to the
floor, or the exercise will not reach
the muscles it is designed
strengthen. ‘
2. Right side to the wall, feet par-
allel. Right palm against the wall
at level of shoulder; left hand on
hip. Turning forward, bring the left '
shoulder in to the wall as far as
possible without raising heels from
the floor. Inhale as you come back
to the first position with your left
hand on your hip, Exhale as you
go forward again. Repeat ten times
on both right and left sides, :
This exercise is mild and very
beneficial and can be done by the
growing boy who has a tendency to
round shoulders or by a man or wo-
man of eighty years. It requires no
change of clothes, and if done three
or four times a day will give the
best results, This like the other ex-
ercises I am giving for correct pos-
ture, shoud be taken with the win-
dows open. |
-The right kind of walking can be
used as a continuation of the two
sets of exercises just given, Even
the athletic type of man seems to
think that when he holds his head
back he is in a proper position for
walking. But holding the head back
strains the back and uses unneces-
sary energy, so that the man who
. walks with his head in that position
trouble, The instructions are so
soon becomes
fatigued,
When walking do not throw the
head back nor force the chest out,
nor the abdomen in. The chin
should be on an even line with the
chest, while the hands hang loosely
at the sides. The feet should be
parallel or toeing in slightly. The
graceful walker springs slightly from
the toe at the end of each step or
the beginning of the next,
Breathing should be through the
more than normally
nose never through the mouth. If
you find you have difficulty in
breathing through the nose, you
should consult a physician regarding
the removal of any obstructions.
Many people take breaths that are
too short, while those who have de-
liberately set themselves to breath-
ing by rule, without proper instruc-
tions, are very likely to breathe too
deeply. I have known some who ac-
quired the habit of lower diaphragm
breathing, This presses the stomach
out and down and has a tendency
to narrow the chest. People who
get little exercise are very apt to
take short breaths,
Most men of middle age should
hand to his face 'or chin for sup-
port, which results in a position
that crowds the liver, stomach and
intestines, !
Another common habit is that of
putting the feet up on a desk or
porch railing. Eventually, this prac-
tice will make a man round-should-
ered. The only way I know of for a
man to correct bad sitting postures
is to. deliberately watch himself
over a considerable period of - time,
Remember. that you are most apt
to slouch and sag in an easy chair
and at the same time you take
shorter breaths, because you are
breathing merely with the apex of
the lungs.
The person who works at a desk
should always use a straight-back
chair. For writing he should move
forward from the hips, with his
back straight keeping his chin and
chest in a line, The first -tend-
dency of the man who is not in
good physical condition is to use his
hand and elbow to support his head
when workng at a desk. This
means a distortion from the correct
sitting position.
There are many comfortable,
easy chairs with straight backs.
Make a habit of using one of
these, if you can, when reading or
resting at home, Lean back if you
want to and relax the abdominal
muscles, but avoid letting the head
sag forward over the chest at any
time. As long as you keep the
chest and the chin in a straight
line, your posture is n/t likely to
displace stomach and intestines.
A good many people make a
practice of sleeping on more than
one pillow, This is bad, for the rea-
son that two pillows hold the head
so high that the circulation is less-
ened, The acute angle of the posi-
tion is sufficient to cause a stiff
neck. The main thing to remember
about your position when in bed is
to lie so as to be without tension
in any part of the body.
your limbs, neck, and jaw A good
many people suffer occasional sleep-
less nghts because they try to
sleep with their jaws tightly clench-
ed.
Many people who walk a great
deal, or follow even far more Vig-
orous recreations, suffer from un-
der-exercise of the abdominal mus-
cles, Any person whose abdominal
muscles are in proper condition
should be able to do the following
exercise:
Lie on the floor flat on your
back, hands under your head. Bring
yourself up to a sitting position
without letting your heels come
more than an inch or so off the
floor
knees to any great extent.
You should be able to do this
exercise ten times without feeling
much strain, in which case your ab-
dominal muscles are properly devel-
oped.
Here are two exrcises for the ab-
dominal muscles. They are espe-
cially good for persons with intes-
tinal trouble—constipaton. Practic-
ing these two exercises will in the
course of a few weeks, enable you
Relax
and without bending your
breathe more deeply than they do, to do the one just given. Then you
but this does not mean that one should use the three together reg-
should breathe as deeply as he can. ularly, to keep your abdominal mus- '
In proper breathing one does not cles in good condition,
take a consciously long nor a con- 1. Clasp your hands
sciously short breath, Proper breath- just below the waist line. Resist
ing is known as upper diaphragm strongly with the pressure of your
breathing, that is, it is from the up- hands as you force the abdomen up
per chest. Take your breath slow- and out. Relax, Then repeat slow-
ly. and notice that your chest rises ly. Continue, with resting intervals
and your stomach comes in, If you for from three to five minutes.
continue to inhale d a certain (This is still better exercise if
point, you will notice that your you can get someone to assist in
together
cise three times in sets of four-
teen with the fifteen-seconds
in between.)
2, Stand in front of a table so
that it touches you. With your feet
parallel on the floor, bend so that
your body from the hips up restson
the table. Catch hold of the table
with one hand along each side,
Keeping your feet together and your
knees rigid, swing your legs together
from the right to left and back
again, Swing vigorously. Ten times,
The second part of this exercise is
to keep the left foot on the floor
and to swing the right Jeg back and
up ten times. Repeat with the left
leg swinging back and up.
A good many cases of bad posture
are due merely to auto-intoxicaton.
Constipation—which is often due to
faulty diet——causes one to feel below
par in general, with the result that
the sufferer begins to slouch and
sometimes acquires permanent de-
fects in his carriage,
To professional and business men
who take physical training under
me, I recommend certain diets
which have been carefully worked
out in accord with the best medical
and scientific experience.
, Diet No, 1 is for the
rest
sedentary
man who does little or no hard.
physical work. On rising he should
exercise for five to ten minutes. Then
‘a warm bath finishing up with a
cold shower. Take a large glass of
orange juice if possible’ immediately
after the bath,
Breakfast: —Cereal mixed with
bran and cream. Very little sugar.
Bran muffins or toast made from
graham, whole wheat, or rye bread.
Coffee substitutes preferred. If cof-
fee is taken, use three-fourths milk
to one-quarter coffee,
Luncheon:—A vegetable luncheon
or a vegetable salad of any of the
following vegetables: Lettuce, toma-
toes, spinach, string beans, turnips,
carrots, caulifiower, cabbage, celery,
cucumbers, Brussels sprouts, water
cress. Fresh cheese. Dark bread.
Buttermilk, or some fermented milk,
Dinner:—Any vegetable soup: To-
mato, pea, lentil corn, celery; one
broiled lamb chop, a piece of chick-
en or a small piece of roast beef
with at least two vegetables, Dark
bread. Unsweetened cocoa. Any
stewed fruit for dessert.
Note:—Avoid rich, complicated
dishes, heavy meats, or greasy fish,
Do not eat red meat more than three
times a week, substituting fish or
chicken at other times. Avoid starchy
foods such as white bread, potatoes,
and so forth. It is a good idea to
make a lunch of fresh fruit once or
twice a week, Drink at least six
glasses of water a day. Try to be
regular with your meals.
Diet No. 2 will result
reduction of weight.
in a mild
The man who
has been eating: too heavily and un-
: der-exercising, suffering in conse-
quence the ills that come from slug-
gish intestinal action can “taper off”
with this regime:
Breakfast—Grapefrut, peach with-
out sugar, or a sour apple, White
bread, not more than one and a
quarter ounces. One soft-boiled egg.
Coffee, not more than four and a
quarter ounces, Cream one ounce,
The coffee should be taken with the
cream, without sugar, asd may be
sweetened with a half-grain of sac-
. charine.
Luncheon:—Cup of tea (no cream,
sugar, or milk), small sandwich of
white bread. A small portion of meat
may be eaten, No crackers.
Dinner:—Clear soup, Roasted or
broiled beef, lamb, veal game and
only four to five ounces. One or two
of the following green vegetables:
Spinach, string beans, green peas,
peas, Brussels sprouts, celery, stew-
ed or raw tomatoes; but only one
and a half ounces of any of these.
For dessert plain rice pudding junk-
et, cup custard, all sweetened
with saccharine; or fruit (except
bananas or strawberries), either raw
or cooked, from four to five ounces of
them, Take a glass of water when
- fruit is not eaten.
Drink a glass or two of water at
nine, eleven, three five o'clock and
at bedtime. Take buttermilk between
meals if desired. —American Maga-
zine,
"TOO MUCH RED TAPE,
BUT HE SAW THE DOCTOR
It seems we have too much red
tape now. I am not strong for that
sort of thing, Red tape always re-
minds me of the young man who
called at the house of a celebrated
physician and asked to see the doc-
tor, The office nurse asked him if
he had an appointment and answer-
ed that he had not, Then the nurse
consulted the doctor’s appointment
list and said:
“I think I can work you in after
the patient who is now with the
doctor. So please go inside that
room and take your clothes off.”
“Take my clothes off!” the young
man exclaimed “What for?”
The nurse was firm, She said:
| “The doctor has made it an absolute
, rule not to see anybody unless that
is done, It saves time.”
“But I don’t want to take off my
clohes,” the young man insisted. He
did not believe in this red-tape stuff.
“Well,” said the nurse, “I am sor-
ry, but you can’t see the doctor.”
“If that’s the case, I'm game”
said the young man, and he went
into the room,
A few minutes later the doctor en-
tered the room and found the young
man awaiting him stark naked.
“Well, sir” said the doctor, “what
seems to be your trouble?”
“Doctor,” the young. man replied
graciously, “I called to see if you
would renew your wife's subscription
to the Ladies’ Journal'’—Exchange.
! ene re fete ere
! Mother—“What is the matter with
{little Chester?”
Tommy-—He’s dug a hole and he
, wants to bring it into the house.”
—James Russel Lowell.
. —This season the choi
is the test of a a rially
speaking. Never have there been so
many opportunities to find the per-
fect hat, which will enhance one’s
individual charm. And never have
there been so many opportunities to
go hopelessly astray and eclipse
one’s self completely—just as the
woman who walks the streets on a
rainy day with trailing wisps of
georgette or silk flapping at her an-
kles is certain to find herself a
crowning confection whose only
Nghia place is under glass in a mu-
m devo to 1
Sous: 930 horrors of the
As always simplicity is the tes
true chic. As the rot of the hd
frocks manage to achieve an effect
of subtle simplicity, despite their
elaborate detail and workm
so the hat worn by the really smart
woman will have a simple casual
air, and will not distract the
from the effect of the ensemble. But
here, as in frocks, it is simplicity of
sophistication rather than naivette
and is achieved by miracles of pa-
tient handwork, perfect fitting, art-
ful tucks, pleats and folds which in
the end produce the perfect frame
for the Jace of the wearer,
or the so-called “dressmaker”
mode, the mode of handicraft - and
detail, has markedly affected the
new hats, and the true milliner, in
whose deft fingers a flat piece of
felt becomes a masterpiece of smart
lines, has returned to her own.
Never has there been such va-
riety in hats. The hat witha brim
has definitely returned. But it is a
brim with a difference, designed to
reveal rather than conceal the face
This effect is achieved in various
ways. The brims of the new cloche
hats are shallower in the front than
at the _sides, and the front of the
crown is frequently an inch shorter
than the back. Sometimes a ban-
deau is introduced, or, when the hat
is steamed, the brim is pinched back
against the crown to give a becom-
ing lift. Sometimes the brim is fold-
ed back in the front and finished
with a knot or ornament, revealing
the face in becoming lines,
The new brim designs seem to
promise that fur collars are destin-
ed to be worn on the first Spring
suits, for those Spring hats that
have recently been imported from
France make provision for them.
The cloche brims sweep down and
back in a widening line as though
starting to imitate the sou’wester,
but just as they reach the point
where they would be in the way of
the collar a wide wedge-shaped piece
is cut out or the back is crumpled
against the crown and held with a
saucy little bow, giving the same
effect as though a triangular piece
had" been cut out. When the brim
is actually :cut away the trimming
is usually laid against the back of
the crown in an up and down line,
which permits: the lower part to lie
against the neck.
Even newer than the hats with
simulated bandeaux and the evenly
drooping brims cut away at the back
are those bandeau hats with the brim
laid in short pleats at the right side
or lie raher closely against the face
while the brim flares out at the left
in a becoming scooped dip. This is
a mode capable of being interpretec
in every mood from the tailored hat
to the filmiest of afternoon creations
but whatever the spirit or the me.
dium in which it is made, its trim.
ming will be found nestling at the
right side as though to hold the
pleats against the cheek. Hats ir
this style have a way of achieving
the envied Gainsborough silhouette
the slanting, picturesque line whick
runs like a motif through all the
new Spring millinery. One finds thi:
same charming slanting line in the
off-the-face models, as well as in the
hats that have brims,
Small hats are by no means abol
ished. For early Spring LeMonnie
is making tiny caps of straw, tuck
ed to hug the head tightly, and al
the leading Paris designers have ver
‘sions of the beret, some gevere, oth
ers draped to give a softened effect
A hint of a new trend is indicate
in Rose Valois's sailor hats, whicl
she is introducing for Spring ant
resort wear, It is almost & decad
since we have seen the sailor, bu
it is quite possible that, with suit
and shirtwaist blouses to the fore
we shall see this classic shape retur:
to favor.
—OQur homes are for recuperatio:
and rest. and nothing destroys th
desired atmosphere of ease mor
than a thoughtless and abusive us
age of color.
—Hot tomatoe Sandwich: Fo
each sandwich, spread one slice ©
bread with butter and another wit
either pimento or cream cheese. Fr
the sandwiches gently in melte
butter. Put them in a shallow pa
and top each sandwich with a thic
slice of tomato. Sprinkle with sal’
pepper. and a few drops Worcester
shire sauce. Bake in a hot oven c
broil them under a hot flame for
few minutes, The sandwiches mus
be served very hot.
—For potatoes baked in half-she
select sx medium sized potatoes an
bake for about forty minutes. Re
move from the oven, cut slice fro:
the side of each and scoop out th
inside.
Mash and add two tablespoons «
butter salt, pepper and two tabl
spoons of hot milk; then add tk
whites of two eggs well beaten.
Refill the skins and bake fro
five to eight minutes in a very hc
oven after you have sprinkled ti
tops of the potatoes with grate
cheese,
Encourage others to subscril
for the Watchman,