Beware Waldo,
Bellefonte, Pa., November 11, 1927.
SR AAAS LNA ND
LEST WE FORGET.
Hats off!
Face to the East! It is
the recurring moment sacred beyond
all the power of the spoken and writ-
ten word—the eleventh hour of the
eleventh day of the eleventh month,
when silence fell upon the guns. So
has it been for eight anniversaries of
“Armistice Day. So may it be in
1927, So may it be as long as the
United States of America endures.
For when the clamor of conflict died
on that fateful day the cheers of the
victors were more than cheers of vic-
tory. Thanksgiving thrilled every
heart. Hope once more sprang eternal
in the human breast. Joy came upon
the earth once more. Each good
American will interpret the moment
of silence of Armistice Day according
to his experience and understanding.
And may each say to himself: “I will
remember while the light lasts and in
the darkness I will not forget.”
War
I abhor;
And yet how sweet
The sound along the marching street
Of drum or fife, and I forget
Broken old mothers, and the whole
Dark butchering without a soul.
Without a soul—save this bright treat
Of heavy music, sweet as hell;
And even my peace-abiding feet
Go marching with the marching street,
For yonder goes the fife,
And what care I for human Life;
The tears filled my astonished eyes,
And my full heart is like to break,
And yet is embannered lies,
A dream those drummers make.
Oh, it is wickedness to clothe
Yon hideous, grinning thing that stalks
Hidden in music like a queen
That in a garden of glory walks,
Till good men love the things they loathe
Art, thou hast many infamies,
But not an infamy like this.
O, snap the fife and still the drum,
And show the monster as she is.
Yes; “War is hell,” as Sherman
said. And no small part of the pray-
er and resolve of Armistice Day is for
“Peace, on earth good will toward
men.”
But—
Hats off!
Along the street there comes
A blare of bugles a ruffle of drums,
A flash of color beneath the sky;
* The Flag is pasing by. . .
But more than the Flag is passing by.
Sea-fights and land-fights,
great,
Fought to make and to save the State;
Weary marches and sinking ships;
Cheers of victory on dying lips;
Days of plenty and years of peace;
March of a strong land’s swift increase;
Equal justice, right and law;
Stately honor and reverent awe;
Sign of a nation, great and strong,
To ward her people from foreign wrong;
Pride and glory and honor—all
Live in the Colors to stand or fall.
grim and
And this, too, is no less a part of
Armistice Day. For Old Glory—the
oldest Flag of earth and the hand-
somest Flag and the Flag that has
never known defeat—will be much in
evidence at the tomb of the “Unknown
Dead” in Arlington, the national
shrine where the nation-wide observ-
ance of Armistice Day will have its
focus. And Old Glory and the “Un-
known Soldier” stand for one and the
same thing—the old, old American
idea: Peace with honor and patriotic
devotion to country.
“OLD IRONSIDES” AND MAYFLOWER.
Constitution and Mayflower side by
side—a fitting picture (No. 4) for
Armistice Day and a suggestive one:
Glorious “Old Ironsides,” built at the
instance of the first President of the
United States, George Washington,
and the Presidential yacht of the
thirtieth President, Calvin Cooldige!
For it was the Constitution that put
the American Navy on the seas more
than one hundred years ago. And itis
from the Mayflower that the President
views the American Navy of today as
it passes in review before him as its
commander in chief. One would wish
mightily tobe privileged to know the
thoughts of this thirtieth President as
he paid his homage at this national
shrine at Boston.
“Old Iromsides” is as truly an
American national shrine as is the
tomb of the “Unknown Soldier.” For
she was as truly symbolical of the na-
tion in her day as is the Arlington
tomb in this.
The Revolution gave us our inde-
pendence, but left our affairs in chaos.
The adoption of a written constitution
and the election of George Washing-
ton as President made us a nation—
without a navy. Said Washington in
an annual address: “To secure respect
to a. neutral flag requires a naval
foree organized and ready to vindicate
it from insult and aggression.” Con-
gress turned a deaf ear. But the pi-
ratical extortions of the Barbary states
enforced the truth of his words and
the Constitution and her sister war-
ships were built. Thereupon we
brought the Mediterranean pirates to
terms and taught France to let alone
our merchant ships.
BUT WE HAD THE CONSTITUTION.
But by 1812 Great Britain, fighting
for her title of “Mistress of the Seas,”
was impresing our seaman and seiz-
Ing our cargoes. So war was declared
to assert our inalienable rights upon
the seas. It was a forlorn hope, if
there ever was one. There were then
1,042 warships in the British navy and
in the American navy there were just
seventeen.
But we had the Constitution—
American designed,” American built
the American manned. First she es-
caped from a whole squadron of
British frigates in a historic chase of
three nights and two days. Then she
fell in with the Guerriere. The two
crack frigates closed like two fighting
bull terriers. They knew each other.
They were looking for each other,
Then Dacres loudly cries: “Make the Yan-
kee ship your prize—
You can in thirty minutes, neat and handy,
Thirty-five's enough, I'm sure, and, if
vou’ll do it in a score,
Til treat you to a double share of brandy,
That was Captain Dacres to his
men—typical of the British naval
‘tommander made arrogant by easy
victories over Frenchman and Span-
iard and the rest of the world; sneer
ingly scornful of the “American pine
boxes with their gridiron flags.”
Dacres had laughed at Capt. Issac
Hull just before the declaration of
war, warned him to keep in harbor
and bet him a hat the Guerriere would
knock the Constitution into kindling
wood in short order if they ever met.
Let us imagine the spirit of the
Americans as they closed in. Hull had
slipped out of Boston just before an
order arrived for him to stay in port;
on the outcome of his battle hung
glory or “death for sailing without
orders.” Many of the crew had
martyred ancestors who had died in
the British prison ships of the Rev-
olution; Hull’s father had so died in
the pest ship Jersey. Many bore the
scars of British lashes after impress-
ment. The war on land had been a
failure from the beginning. And for
the first time an American frigate
was to meet on equal terms a first-class
warship of the “Mistress of the Seas!”
After just 40 minutes of fighting the
Guerriere was a dismasted and sink-
ing wreck, with 78 of her crew dead
and wounded; the Constitution was in-
tact, with 14 ‘dead and wounded.
Dacres was too dazed at the outcome
to surrender. Hull said, “No, keep
your sword. But I'll trouble you for
that hat.” And Great Britain was no
less stunned than was Captain Dacrex
by the Constitution’s victory.
August 30, 1812, all was gloom 1n
Boston. General William’ Hull had
surrendered Detroit without a sem-
blance of defense. The garrison at
Fort Dearborn (Chicago) had been
massacred. On land the war was a
story of disaster after disaster.
And then appeared the Constitution
bedecked with flags and guns booming
victory. The nation rejoiced and took
fresh heart. The Constitution soon de-
parted to outsail, outmaneuver and
outfight the enemy as before. Was
“Old Ironsides” providential? Judge
for vourself. Anyway, she is a na-
tional institution, worthv of her third
restoration—this time at the hands of
American school children!
What an object lesson of peace is shown
today by our two countries to all the
world! No grim-faced fortifications mark
our frontiers, no huge battleships patrol
our dividing water, no stealthy spies
lurk our tranquil border hamlets. . . Our
protection is in our fraternity, our armor
is our faith, and the tie that binds, more
firmly each year, is ever-increasing ac-
quaintance and comradship through in-
terchange of citizens; and the compact is
not of perishable parchment, but of fair
and honorable dealing which, God grant,
shall continue for all time.
These words by Warren G. Harding,
twenty-ninth President of the United
States, are written in bronze on the
Harding Internatinal Good Will mem-
orial recently dedicated in Stanley
park, Vancouver, B. C. (No 2). It
was erected by the voluntary subscrip-
tions of 95,000 American and Cana-
dian members of Kiwanis Internation:
al. It was placed there, rather than
in Washington or Marion, because it
was at Vancouver that the first Presi-
dent of the United States to visit
Canada spoke these words. A bronze
tablet contains his profile portrait.
Bronze figures symbolizing the Unit-
ed States and Canada stand guard.
Another fitting picture for Armistice
Day and a suggestive one!
In the seven years since November
11, 1918, all the world has come to
know what the Star-Spangled Banner
and the “Unknown Soldier” stand for.
And the great of earth, setting fooi
cn our shores, hasten to pay homage
at this national—and international
shrine. One day it is President Macs-
ado of Cuba (No. 1). : And the next
it is Joseph Caillaux, minister of fi-
nance of the French—who worship the
individual hero, as shown by their
memorial to Alan Seeger, American
soldier poet who kept his “Rendezvous
With Death” (No. 3).
“We do not know the eminence of
this ‘Unknown Soldier’s’ birth, but we
do know the glory of his death. He
died for his country and greater de-
votion hath no man than this.”
So said the kindly gentleman and
true patriot who has “Gone West” to
join the boys “Over There.” And
President Harding’s words are found-
ed on the eternal verities.
We Americans are fortunate in hav-
ing national holidays that are pecul-
iarly our own. On Independerice Day
we celebrate our birth as the one na-
tion of earth dedicated to freedom and
the rights of man. On Memorial Day
we honor our patriotic dead who had
the will to offer life itself in loyality to
the Flag. On Thanksgiving Day we
give to Divine Providence our thanks
—the thanks of a Christian people
for the guidance that has made us the
most prosperous and powerful nation
of earth. Flag Day and Defense Day
and Navy Day are equally in accord
with the true national spirit of the
American people. All the holidays
embody the genius of the American
nation.
Armistice Day has something of
each of these truly American holidays.
The “Unknewn Soldier” truly sym:
bolizes every man and every woman
who give their best when the nation
calls.
Wellesley’s Old Festival
Tree day, original festive day at
Wellesley, is older than commence-
ment itself, for it was held on May 10,
1877, when the first class to graduate
was yet in its sophomore year,
Uncle Eben
“Giddap, mule,” said Uncle Eben.
“You's a good deal of a comfort. Even
when you kicks, you shows dat yoh
propellers is in good workin’ order”.
Washington Star.
Overcomes Drowsiness
A meeting seed is any aromatic or
pungent seed, as fennel, caraway or
dill, so called because taken to coun-
teract the effects of drowsiness im
church,
Room for an Empire
All the New England states and
New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania,
Ohio and Indiana could be placed
within the boundaries of Texas.
NEW STATE MOTOR
MOEDEL LEGISLATION.
Years of experience in the adminis-
tration of motor laws and study of
the peculiar conditions which obtain
in many sections of Pennsylvania have
borne fruit in the form of a new motor
code. It becomes effective January
first. A codification of existing legis-
lation, it simplifies the law; the addi-
tion of features taken from the Uni-
form Motor Vehicle Code adopted by
the Hoover National Conference on
Street and Highway Safety make the
new code a model in its field.
The Code embraces thirteen arti-
cles, each dealing with a specific sub-
ject in a thorough manner. This
makes for simplicity and enables any
person interested to locate a pertin-
ent section and secure the information
he may be seeking, immediately and
fully. This was not always true un-
der the present law which very often |
necessitated legal assistance. At
present the Bureau of Motor Vehicles
experiences much difficulty in secur-
ing a clear interpretation of some por-
tions of the law and it is not unusual
to call on the Department of Justice
for expert legal opinions before pro-
ceeding under a particular section.
Significant titles of the various
headings make it easy to refer to the
Code. The thirteen articles are head-
ed thus:
1.—Short Title and Preliminary
Provisions.
2.—Certificate of Title.
3.—Defaced Engine and Manu-
facturer’s Serial Numbers.
4.—Registration.
5.—Registration Plates.
6.—Operators.
7.—Fees.
8.—Equipment.
9.—Size; Weight; Constructiou.
10.—Traffic.
11.—Motor License Fund.
12.—Penalties.
CODE IS
13.—Repeals.
The sections under each article have
a key number related to the article.
Under Article One the first section is
No. 1001. Article Ten deals with Traf-
fic. The 42 sections under this head
are numbered 1001-1042 inclusive. i
Article One begins with the custom- |
ary “Short Title.” The definitions |
which follow in this Article are all |
important since they furnish the
means of enforcing the various provi-
sions. When parking regulations are
under discussion, there is no uncer-
tainty as to what constitutes the act
of parking. The definition is clear.
Under the old law it was possible to
make such regulations but no clue was
furnished to determine when a car
was parked.
The new Code correlates and sup-
plants the Certificate of Title Law
and provides orderly, clear cut pro-
cedure for the titling of motor ve-
hicles, disposition of stolen cars and .
other legal operations. :
Certain manufacturers,
their repre-
sentatives or authorized
motor vehicles may be licensed by the
Department to remove engine num- |
bers from engines being replaced by
new, used or rebuilt engines and such .
dealers in
licenses must report immediately each:
such change made. - :
License plates may be revoked or’
suspended when a vehicle is deemed |
unsafe or unfit for operation upon pub-
lic highways or when it is not equip-
red as required by law. License may
be refused when a vehicle is not in
satisfactory mechanical condition.
The use of registration plates is
subject to very rigid regulations, es-
pecially the transfer plates and re-i
placement - for loss, theft or destruc-
tion. Plates may not, in any instance,
be given or lent to another person. |
Wide latitude is given the Secretary!
of Highways in the suspension of op-|
erators’ licenses for causes. The mini
imum age limit remains at 16 years
and no person under the age of 18
may hire cr be employed to operate
as a chauffeur or paid driver. Driv-
ers of school busses must be 18 or
over and the driver of a motor bus or
motor omnibus must be at least 21. }
Fees for registration of all classed
remain the same as under the old law,
Headlight regulation is covered ay
length in the Code. Necessary equip4
ment for the car is specified. Signs]
cards, tags, letterings or markings of
an obscene or vulgar nature are pro-
hibited. in |
Under the traffic Article, important
improvements over the old law are
made. Speed regulations and limits
have been changed. The right of way
is clearly defined and specified. Turn- |
ing at’ intersections, passing street |
cars and hand signals are carefully |
outlined. Garage owners or keepers '
are required to report any vehicles
which have been damaged or have
been struck by bullets. ;
Sign posting along the highway is
restricted and regulated.
Fines, penalties and procedures are
the subject of Article 12 in which they
are classified. Mayors, burgesses,
magistrates, aldermen and justices of
the peace are required to forward to
the Department a complete report of
every case brought before them in-
volving infractions of the Code. This
is the nucleus of a comprehensive
record of every violation which wili
be filed under the names of those con-
victed.
Fines range from $2 to $5,000. The
penalty is definite for each violation
and nothing is left to the discretion
of magistrates, courts or others in
imposing penalities. =5:8
Compulsory report of accidents in
which damage to an apparent extent
of $50 is involved or where injury or
death has resulted, is new.
State Highway Patrolmen, after
January 1, will have full power
throughout the State in Motor Vehicle
violations.
This is the first of a series of arti-
cles by Mr. Eynon, dealing with the
Motor Vehicle Code, its provisions,
improvement over the old law and
pointing out its benefit to motorists
and car owners. Others will follow.
Eu borrow your neighbor's
paper to see what is going on. Sub-
seribe for the Watchman.
——————————
—Subscribe for the Watchman.
Flute Players Never
- Popular as Neighbors
Flute playing appears to have gone
out of fashion and it has been smg-
gested that this is because of the de-
nunciation that the instrument has re-
ceived from the pens of eminent writ-
ers, Violinists and pianists sometimes
figure in fiction as heroes and heroines,
but performers upon the flute are gen-
erally introduced into novels only as
comic or unpleasant characters, says
the Philadelphia Inquirer.
At least three comic characters of
Dickens were flute players: Dick
Swiveller, who took to it as a “good,
sound, dismal occupation,” and was
' consequently requested to remove him-
self tu another lodging; Mr. Mell, the
schoolmaster, who “made the most
dismal sounds I ever heard produced
by any means, natural or artificial,”
and the young gentleman at Mrs. Tod-
gers’ musical party who “blew his
melancholy into the flute.”
Bulwer-Lytton wrote of a clever
schoolboy who. “unluckily took to the
flute and unfitted himself for the pres-
ent century,” and Charlotte Bronte
represents “inept curates” as perform-
ing upon it. Then there was also
Goethe, who summed up the case
against the flute thus: “There ig
scarcely a more melancholy suffering
to be undergone than what is forced
upon us by the neighborhood of an in-
cipient player on the flute.”
Age-Old Difference :
Over Welsh Emblem
The custom of wearing the leek by
Welshmen on St. David's day has been
variously accounted for. In the “Festa
Anglo-Romana” we are told that it is
. worn in memory of a great victory
obtained by the ancient Britons, who
lived in the Welsh region, over the
Saxons, they, during the battle, hav-
ing leeks in their hats for their mili-
tary colors and distinction of them-
selves, :
Other accounts say that when fight-
ing under their King Cadwallo on a
field near Hethfield (or Hatfield
Chase) in 633 A. D. in which that
vegetable was growing, they won an-
other victory and in jubilation they
uprooted the leeks, stuck them in
their hats and then returned home.
The custom has certainly remained
since that date, as can be seen at any
international sporting gathering with
which Wales is concerned. The daf-
fodil is largely superseding the leek in
i favor as the Welsh emblem,
The Button in History
The button is a product of modern
civilization, since the .ancient people
did not have any such form of hold-
ing their clothes together. They were
first used for ornamental purposes.
The next step was the use of the but-
ton and loop, thé buttonhole being last
in the development. Buttons were first
employed in southern Europe in the
Thirteenth and Fourteenth centuries.
Their manufacture in England did not
commence until the reign of Elizabeth,
The earliest mention of the button-
hole in literature occurs in the year
1561. While men’s outer garments are
still made with buttons and button-
holes, the trend of the present 1s away
from such fastenings. Almost all wom-
en's clothes and many men’s under-
garments are now made without but-
tons.
Changing a Mule’s Mind
Gen. William Booth, founder of the
Salvation Army, used to tell a story
of a man in South Africa who was ex-
ceedingly successful in dealing with
mule teams. Asked how he managed
these stubborn cre:.tures, he said:
“Well, when they stop and won't go
on, I just pick up a handful of gravel
or soil, put it to their mouths and let ;
them taste it. Of course they spit it
out again; but as a rule they begin
to go on.”
“Why do you think it has that effect
on them?” persisted his questioner.
“Well, I don’t know,” was the reply,
“but I expect it changes the current
of their thoughts!”
Kept the Minutes
The village football club was being
reorganized. The vicar was appoint-
ed president, and a person of particu-
larly vaquous countenance was pro-
posed as secretary. 8
“You know how to take the minutes,
of course, James?” asked the parson.
The secretary grinned.
“Yes, IT know,” he replied.
At the next meeting the president
announced that the secretary would
read the minutes of the previous
meeting. The secretary produced his
notebook and stood up.
“The meeting lasted twenty-five
minutes,” he said, brightly.—TLondon
Tit-Bits.
Fly’s Many Eyes
‘The greater part of the head of a
fly is occupied by the eyes, some sev-
eral thousand im number, described
as compound. Between the compound
eyes and near the top of the head is a
triangular arrangement of three spm-
ple eyes. The upper two are much
farther - apart in the female than tn
the male, In spite of the arrangemsnt
of the eyes and the great mobility of
the head, it is not believed that the
vision of files is especially acute, al-
though the range of vision is wide,
Man’s Small Job
The function of woman is to serre
the race. The function of man Is so
serve the woman and the child —
American Magazine.
——
Tibetan Wild Horse
Figures in Scriptures?
It is thought that the dziggetai, or
Xiang horse, approaches as near to
the primitive horse as any now found
in a wild state. This is believed to be
the animal so graphically described
in the Book of Job.
The home of this creature, which
formerly ranged farther west, is now
the high plateaus of Chinese Turk-
estan between Lake Lob Nor and the
mountainous region of Tibet. This
plateau is covered with a growth of
short grass on which the wild horses
graze. The climate is very cold, the
mercury in winter sinking to 40 de
grees below zero, Fahrenheit. -
The Kiang horse is a shaggy animal
having body somewhat the aspect of
a donkey except as te the tail and
ears. It is, however, a genuine horse,
having rather delicate legs and feet
and ears by no means resembling
those of a donkey or mulé. The color
of the head and of the upper part and
sides of the body is a reddish tan
shading to a bay and, though this
color grows lighter from above down-
ward, it contrasts strikingly with the
pure white of the inner side of the
forelegs,
Along the spine runs a well-defined
stripe of thick blackish-brown hair ex-
tending to the root of the tail. The
hair is long and shaggy and protects
the horse against the cold in winter.
The dziggetal, like all the other wild
horses, live in bands or herds of 100
to 200 individuals, each presided over
by an old male. This leader gives the
signal when any danger approaches.
These animals are preyed upon fre-
quently by wolves, but their most ter-
rible enemy is the ounce or Turkestan
panther,
Chinese Have Faith
in Queer Medicines
A famous scientist has recently giv-
en an account of the rather scanty
training of the average Chinese
apothecary.
A Chinese chemist has little knowl-
edge of many of the drugs which mod-
ern science has given us, and his
principal medicines are derived from
plants and animals.
Among his most favored remedies
are fly maggots, fish worms, grass-
hoppers, dried silkworms, and beetles.
The roots of the thistle, the lotus, and
the ginseng and the saliva of toads
are other favorite medicines.
The Chinese chemist of today is
«working on very much the same lines
i as the apothecary .of the Seventeenth
' century.
We wonder whether the Chi-
nese are very much worse off with
only these simple remedies!
Wives Purse Guard:ans
Statisticians say that ‘in working
and middle class familiesd4from 75.to
85 per cent of all money is spent by
the wives. y
Man thinks he supervises the buy-
ing because he makes out the checks
for bills, but actually he knows little
or nothing about those bills. He thinks
his wife is no financier because she
nukes mistakes in adding a column of
f:zures. He forgets that real financiers
never trust themselves, but use adding
nitchines. He forgets that the finan-
ciering comes in the planning of how
the income is to be spent to achieve
certain ends and avoid bankruptcy.
That the majority of homes are sol-
vent redounds to the credit of the
women within them.—Helen C. Ben
nett in Liberty.
A Parable
Dees the possession of wealth make
one selfish? We read the other day a
quaint parable from the Jewish folk-
play, “The Dybbuk”: A rabbi led his
visitor, a rich old man of miserly dis-
position, to the window and asked him
what he saw. “I see men, women and
iitile children,” was the reply. The
' rabbi then led him to a mirror and
again asked hima what he saw. “Now
1 see myself.” Then said the rabbi,
“Behold—in the window there is glass
and in the mirror there is glass. But
the gluss of the mirror is covered with
a little silver, and no sooner is the
silver added than you cease to see oth-
«rs and see only yourself.”
Inadequately Armed
In a courtroom in Iowa a tramp
stood charged with stealing a watch.
He stoutly denied the impeachment,
and brought a counter charge against
his accuser for assault committed
with a frying pan.
The judge was inclined to take a
common-sense view of the case, and
regarding the prisoner, said: “Why
did you allow the prosecutor, who is a
smaller man than yourself, to assault
Jou without resistance? Had you
nothing in your hand to defend your-
self with?”
“Your honor,” answered the tramp,
warily, “I had his watch, but what
wis that against a frying pan?’
Rubber Replacing Metal
Rubber is proving a durable substi-
tute for iron, steel and other metals in
various industrial processes. One of
its increasing uses is in linings for
grinding mills. In a cement plant
where one-inch rubber sheets were
used in a mill charged with 45,000
pounds of steel balls, not even the
cloth on the rubber’s surface had heen
worn off after 90 days use, and the
rubber was not worn more than one
sixty-fourth of an inch after fourteen
months of service, says Popular
®echanics Magazine. One explanation
ot this is that rubber absorbs the im-
vact.
FOR AND ABOUT ‘WOMEN,
DAILY THOUGHT.
It were good for man to have some
anchorage deeper than the quicksands of
this world; for these drift to and fro 80 as
to baffle all conjecture.—Carlyle.
—Scarfs have passed from fads to
essential accessories, reports a leading
manufacturer. Of the several types
in favor, he said yesterday, the square
is most popular tor sports wear, as it
gives a suggestion of the masculine.
Uther favored shapes are triangular or
oblong. The best patterns are hand-
blocked, the process calling for a high
degree of mechan’cal skill and a fine
sense of design and color combination.
The essential value of the scarf is
its decorative quality, the manufac-
turer further said. It must appeal
on the score of beauty or it will not
sell. Adornment of the neck has
been practiced by women from time
immemorial, and today the average
woman has a well-developed sense of
what actually becomes her. Ugly
patterns and harsh colors meet with
little response at retail counters. The
American woman, concluded the manu-
facturer, is no longer a novice when it
comes to buying scarfs,
black coats persists
strongly, according to the* market re-
View prepared especially for The
Times by Alfred Fantl. There is also
siderable interest in the fluffier fur
trimmings, despite the talk about a
vogue for flat curly pelts, such as
krimmer and Persian lamb. A num-
ber of manufacturers are featuring
black coats with pahmi fur, and these
were received by buyers in the
market last week. Sports styles con-
tinue to meet with a good demand.
dresses for social wear,” the
report continues, “the demand for
lame effects is one of the outstanding
developments of the season. Orders
are for both plain and brocade lame
frocks With long sleeves. As the ma-
terial itself is so elegant in texture,
little trimming is regired. This usual-
ly takes the form of a smart bow,
handsome flower or soft drape. '
. “During the week buying interest
in velvet dresses, which had fallen
; off somewhat, again became active.
| Calls for black predominated, though
! considerable brown was asked for.
, Interest centered on semi-tailored
styles with little touches of lace,
rhinestone pins and buckles, to sell
, around $49.50 and up. Demands for
chiffon frocks are increasing, with a
, change in color trend from black
. and brown or tan tones to high colors,
such as procelain blue, raspberry,
coral and light green. A new popu-
larity for blonde satin is developing
for afternoon and, with the introduc-
tion of sports colors in the formal
mode, for evening as well.
Ey Junior departments the activity
In coats is principally in the better
types, the demand centering on black,
tan and blue shades. The shawl col-
lar is definitely favored, and suede
and broadcloth materials, rather than
Sports fabrics, are of chief interest.
le most coats are wanted in
straight-line styles; there = are ocea-
sional demands for flared effects.
here is a marked call for infants*
coats of the better type. In sizes one
to four there is a change in demand
from the white and pink baby coat
types to tan, copen, and rose shades.
In children’s coats the number of or.
ders for chinchilla is probably greater
than in any nrevioys season, and far
exceeds those for dressier types. Hat
and coat sets retailing around $10 are
[Ahoy active. Manv three-piece
Sets of hat, coat and le ings ar -
Ing purchased.” Fa senke
—DModish footwear for the fall sea-
son, exhibited at the recent annual St.
Louis fashion pageant, indicated a
trend toward the plain shoe of solig
color,
“Patent leather ieads 1n popui:
material, followed cosely by pay
then satin,” said David Martin, presi-
dent of the St. Louis Shoe Manufac-
turers’ association, “Black shoes are
the vogue. Browns are good. There
is a tendency to colors—that is, if
worn en suite, matching the color of
the gown and hat.”
The new almost brimless hats rely
on a wide range of jewelry ornaments
to get the required “effect,” accord-
Ing to advices received in the local
Jewelry trade from London. Brooch-
es buckles and in some instances, ear-
rings form part of the design. Black
pearls are much used with the light
colored crowns, while jeweled rings
are used to hold draped folds.
The most-used type of ring for this
purpose is composed of pearls and
brilliants. Others are of amber,
crystal and onyx. On some of the
hats a single black pearl of good
quality is sewn into the crown. Much
of the hat ornamentation forms part
of a jewelry set. The brooch is a
smaller replica of the ornament worn
on the dress, while the buckle matches
up at the back and leaves the lower
part of the ear exposed.
| “Some of the new dresses show yoke
effects on the blouse or skirt, or on
both. One smart model developed in
a featherweight gray mixture, with
almost invisible flecks of red, had in-
. verted box plaits in the skirt coming
from under a yoke. The blouse, ex-
plains a fashion writer in the New
| York Times, perfectly plain except
for a straight-line yoke in front, owed
its chic to a wide belt of dark red
suede with ornamental buckle. The
coat to be worn over this dress was a
| gray mixtuure, similar in tones to the
| dress, but heavier as to weight. A red
, Suede flower repeated on the coat la-
| pel matched the note of color in the
, dress.
In addition to the lightweight wool-
ens mentioned, there is a woolen jer-
sey, but so different from the old-time
jerseys that one is tempted to label
it a new fabric. It appears in a great
variety of weights. weaves and pat-
terns. Sometimes it has a very sleek
and finished look, again it has a
brushed appearance. There are her-
ringbone and diagonal weaves, there
are shell-like patterns, there are in-
terwoven silk threads or lines of gold
and silver. There are self-tone lines
that are frankly wavy or zigzag, and
i there are stripes of different colors. of
of different tones of the same color.
—The call for