ERT Brworali adn, Bellefonte, Pa., February 25, 1927. sg aii LET ME DIE AT HOME. Written for the Watchman years ago by the late John P. Mitchell. Though wide my footsteps chance to stray From home and friends my heart holds dear, With none to light life's rugged way, Or drop a sympathetic tear, I still have faith to struggle on, Hoping for brighter scenes on high, If, when life's sands are nearly run, My footsteps lead me home to die. When from time’s cold and lidless eye My humble name is rudely torn, May friends press round to see me die On whom 1 looked in childhood’s morn; On my cold brow may no hard hand In mocking sympathy be lain, When spirit forms around me stand, And feebly throbs the weary brain. When earth is fading from my sight, And, 'mid the shadows of the tomb, My glazing eye beholds the light Of spectral tapers in the gloom, May friendly faces on me beam, And loved ones catch my latest breath, That I may calmly close life’s dream In the realities of death. Tis said that when the stiff’ning clay Has ceased to throb with life's warm tide, No matter how ‘tis borne away, Or who, or what lies by its side; But could I sleep in peace for aye, With none but strangers slumb’ring near, Where no kind friend would ever stray, Above my grave to shed a tear? Oh, let my days pass where they may, But when to time I say farewell, May my last hour of earthly day Be passed where first life's sunbeams fell; Let faces that smiled o'er my head When youth's fresh flow’rs were blooming fair, Be thronging round my dying bed, To breathe for me a parting prayer. The path of life is dark and drear, Pass through its windings as we may, And lights and shades are blended here As twilight mingles night and day; I ask of fate, whate'er my doom, Where’er in life I chance to roam, That, when Death wraps me in its gloom, My last of Earth may be at home. Traveling Through France. i AUTOBIOGRAPHY. £. S— 7 By Rev. L. M. Colfelt D. D. Normandy, though one of the rich- est and most beautiful provinces of France, as well as the most accessible, is less known to tourists than many parts of Europe less attractive in natural features and with less that can reward curiosity. The ordinary holiday maker at once goes far afield to the Alps, to the banks of the Po or Tiber, to the Moorish monuments of Spain, perhaps to North Africa. If on his return he casts a hasty look at renovated Rouen during a pause in his journey from Paris to Dieppe, he thinks he has paid sufficient at. tention to a district of minor inter- est which few talk of having visited and for which the modern caravans of tourists are rarely organized. It is rather the person of special tastes who makes the easy pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Beauvais, studies the no- ble proportions of St. Ouen, or the grand relics of the Norman architec- ture of the 11th century at Caen. To this class of travellers, the quaint lit- tle town of Honfleur, just over the Seine from Havre, nestling amid trees and green hills, will always have interest. As we steam across the water, the villas and chalets play bo- peep among the hills that line the cliffs and we fancy that the landscape must have strayed from an inland re- treat to this sea-board. Our fellow passengers on deck are numerous and miscellaneous, a curious assemblage of peasant women, fish, mussels, quackling ducks and crowing cocks en- route for sale. By our side an objec- tionable man, with the appearance of an ostiler, puffs cheap tobacco smoke in our faces and we look as uncom- fortable as we feel. But who shall as- sert that French gallantry perished with the monarchy? Our ostiler has the manner of a prince and on discov- ering that his cigar interferes with our comfort not only throws away the offending luxury, but with a profusion of apologies, makes a stupendous bow! It was a really well executed bow, with the lifted hat, the sweeping ex- tension of the arm, the inflection of the body while the respectful smile seemed to bespeak that the author of that magnanimous performance mur- mured inwardly, “I think I did that rather well.” Description renders such an exhibition ludicrous, but it was a deference so striking that the memory of it has survived for more than forty years. Indeed this is an element of French character worthy of universal imitation, we mean their civility and polite manners. We know not what correlation there may be be- tween the inner state and the outward manifestation though there is an old saw that says, “Manners Maketh Man,” but sure we are that conscious- ly or unconsciously from peasant to count in their habitual attitude toward each other as well as in casual rela- tionship to strangers, the French peo- ple exhibit to an unrivalled degree the grace of courtesy. It would be a great error to suppose this is all veneer, merely acquisition, the fruit of long study. History shows us that the race has been what it is since Louis Treize was King, yea, since Strabo wrote, “The Greeks and the Romans distin- guished the ancient Celts from all tha people comprehended under the name of barbarians because of their polite- ness,” It is therefore inheritance and “to the manner born,” ingrained in the very web of French society. It lends a subtle charm to all intercourse, a charm as discernible on the street as in the drawing room, among the bur- geoise as amid the higher classes. But we have almost forgotten ‘our destinalion in our meditation upoh French civility. We are aroused how- ever, from our reverie, by the bustle of landing amid such a collection of crowded docks, picturesque wharves, tortuous streets, old world buildings as must drive an artist wild. Scramb- ling up the steep street we reach the place whereon stands the Beacon Church of Honfleur. The steeple seems to have had a quarrel with the building and walked off to settle down some yards further. The building is undoubtedly aged and perhaps has survived the 1500 years claimed. Its look of utter decrepitude certainly does not belie its antiquity. Its most interesting feature is the votive offer- ings to be seen in the interior, dedi- cated throughout the centuries to the church by Norwegian sailors grateful for deliverance from the perils of the sea. What Deal is to England, Hon- fleur has been to France in the bye- gone centuries, the landing place for Norwegian ship timber, evidence of which remains, not only in votive of- ferings but in language and customs of the people. But Honfleur is not only distin- guished by the ancient curiosities in its Beacon Church but for its marble beds, the deposits of ancient Caspean Seas and forever famous for the dis- covery of the oldest forms of fossil life in the shape of the remains of the marine reptiles called Ichthyosaurs but of which the celebrated Cuvier ar- ticulated the new species of animal creation which revolutionized the zo- ology of the world. He proved thereby the existence, in past geologic ages, of an order of reptiles differing wholly from any that now frequent land or sea. These monsters may well be compared to chimeras engendered by the imagination, exhibiting as they do, the singular spectacle of a head like a dolphin, with the teeth of a croco- dile placed at the extreinity of a long neck consisting of eighty vertebrae at- tached to the body of a lizard. Even so famous a naturalist as Cuvier would have failed to convince the scientific world of the existence of such an ancient monster but for the discovery of many like-fossil remains. At Boulogne, in the quarries of Caen, in the strata of Montmartre, Belle- ville, Montmorency in the calcareous marl of Orleans and on the Rhenish limits of France, bones were charac- ter as to prove beyond a doubt the ex- istence of gramnivorous animals rad- ically different from any now found on the earth’s surface. The only ani- mals to which they bear the faintest resemblance are the tapirs that exist at present in the new world. But our visit to Honfleur was not to see old world buildings and antedi- luvian skeletons but to see and hear Leon Gambetta, who was to appear in the theatre of the Place Thiers and distribute the prizes to the more studious scholars of the Lycee. It was an educational miseenscene which probably only France, with its love of “effect” could produce. The boxes, galleries and back pit were filled with a well-dressed throng, plentifully sprinkled among whom were divers of- ficials, solemnly imposing in their uniforms dear to French hearts. The pit itself was filled with young colleg- | ians in their Lycee uniforms. Car- peted steps, flanked with a profusion of beautiful flowers, lead to the stage, on which are seated the professors and in the center, Gambetta, backed by a flag, surrounded bust of the Republic. As the scholars receive their prizes, the place echoes wth applause and they are recalled again and again, the faces of professors beam all over, and one young teacher goes to the length of saluting his smiling pupils on both cheeks. The band strikes up at fre- quent intervals and altogether it is a theatrical performance that marks the turning points in these young lives. Upon the conclusion of the school exercises, Gambetta was introduced amid acclamations and Viva la Repub- lique, long continued. His address was brief, congratulating them on the interest in education they displayed and it was devoted chiefly to the ne- cessity of all France to champion and establish Universal Education, as the most vitally important means by which the Republic was to be con- served and consolidated. Though there were no impassioned flights of oratory, he was a very vivacious and magnetic speaker and had a rapid ut- terance. The evidence of vitality leapt out of every movement yet every movement was graceful. The rapid play of physiognomy, the twisting of the shoulders, the nervous oratory of the hands, all these enforced the sen- timents and ideas of the speaker and bespoke what he was, the most elo- quent orator of France. The manner was half the eloquence. : On the next Sabbath, while at Havre, the National Election took place. A scene of extraordinary ac- tivity presented itself at the Hotel De Ville. The fate of the presiding Gov- ernment, of which Gambetta was the chief factor turned upon the event. The conduct of the voters was admir- able. No rowdiness, no drunkenness, only chatter. The wonderful facility of the French in talk is a great safe- ty valve by which hot passions largely evaporate. They discuss only the re- sult of the election, not to France, but to Gambetta. The eyes of all France are turned toward this, the greatest citizen. His enemies were far more numerous than we had dreamed. “What is the cause of your choler against Gambetta?” we asked. “His prodigious promises; his petite ful- fillments” was the answer. “He has promised education for all children, promised separation of Church and State, promised in a moment of flat- tery of the crowd, non armee—no army. Impossible!” they exclaim with a tremendous shrug. And so Gam- betta was impaled as many a great politician before and since by his own promises which, when the opportun- ity of power comes, it reveals that the promises have been found too large by far to be carried out. Al- ready the election presaged his down- fall. The bulletin announced his mor- al defeat, that is, his election by so small a majority as to sensibly im- pair his prestige. “Gambetta est 'per- du” Gambetta is lost, his eneinies cry. In fine, just as many a popular Preacher lives to preach to ‘empty benches, as many ‘a stdtesman is thst headlong down from the ‘pinna- ‘tle ‘of his power, Bo Gambetta was swiftly approaching the hour when the crowds that cheered him to the echo would greet him with never a Viva la Premiere Citoyen. Building his power on popular applause rather than popular conscience, his brilliant career ended in early eclipse, personal disappointment and a tragical death. On the elevated cliffs in the sub- urbs of Havre overlooking the North Sea was the summer residence of Sarah Bernhardt. It was a large and imposing Chateau but occupied a sing- ularly bleak position without a trec or shrub to cover down the utter bar- reness and nakedness of the land. On the bill board of the principal theatre in Havre, the announcement was made that the great actress would make 2 single appearance in one of her great roles. The opportunity was not neg- lected to hear this famous woman in her own land and tongue. I shall not forgat while life lasts the marvellous tonal quality of her voice as it was heard for the first time as she came upon the stage, falling as it did upon the ear for perhaps a minute before her presence was revealed, clear as a silver bell with an indescribable sweetness of tone and soundness of timbre, penetrating without the slight- est effort the vast and crowded theatre. The play was a rather au- dacious one, reproducing the Biblical story of the Samaritan Woman at Ja- cob’s Well. And the greatest encom- ium that could be passed upon it was that there was nothing suggestive of sacrilege in the representation but it was reverent to a degree. It repro- duced the scene of the woman draw- ing water, the memorable conversa- tion, the arrival of the disciples as they returned from the purchase of food in the city, their astonishment over the condescension of the Gali- lean Prophet in talking with this alien woman, the frugal meal of the little company of disciples seated upon the ground closing with the gates of the distant city thrown open and a vast crowd rushing forth to see and hear for themselves the words of this stranger Prophet who had made such a stir in the land, closing with the apostrophe of Jesus at the sight in the well known words, “Say not three months and then cometh harvest! Lift up your eyes and behold the fields white already to the harvest!” and the willing homage of the crowds who now believed not from the wo- man’s report, but from what they themselves saw and heard. There was nothing strained or suggestive of art- ifice in the role of this gifted woman. Her action was free from the excess of gesticulation common in French histrionic performances and restrained to a degree. Indeed her perfect nat- uralness was in evidence from first to last. But the most indelible impres- sion left upon the mind was that of a voice, limpid, pure as a tinkling moun- tain rivulet, a voice such as I never before heard upon earth nor expect to hear this side of the angelic choir. I came from the performance with the conviction that the soubriquet of the “Divine Sarah” was well deserved. Er —————————e fp e—————— Free Farm Bulletins. The Pennsylvania. Department of Agriculture at Harrisburg has avail- able for distribution to farmers a number of valuable bulletins on im- portant farm subjects. Farmers de- siring copies of bulletins in which they are directly interested should desig- nate the bulletin number and the sub- ject and address their requests to the Bulletin Editor, State Department of Agriculture, Harrisburg, Pa. The list of available bulletins follows: Bulletin Subject Number 261 Sour Soils and Liming 340 The Brown Rot of Fruits 361 An Explanation of the Penn- sylvania Seed Law. ° 369 The Apple Industry of Penn- sylvania. 371 The Cigar Tobacco Industry of Pennsylvania. 390 The Japanese Beetle in Pennsylvania. : 393 Problems in Marketing Pennsylvania Wheat. 398 Scale Insects Injurious in Pennsylvania. 404 Bovine Infectious Abortion. 405 Oriental Fruit Moth. 407 The Farm Electrified. ; 408 The Vegetable Industry of Pennsylvania. 412 How Farmers Can Secure Electric_Service by Coop- erative Effort. 415 Re ot of Seed Analysis, 1925. 416 Pennsylvania Weeds. 417 e Mexican Bean Beetle in Pennsylvania. 418 The Peach Tree Borer and Its Control. 422 Feeding Stuffs Report, 1925. 424 County and State Organiza- : tions, 1926. 425 Fertilizer Report, 1925. 427 Annual Report, 1925. 428 Pennsylvania as a Market for Potatoes 429 Cooperative Buying and Selling by Farmers. 437 Some Phases of Taxation in Pennsylvania. Green Feeds Good For Laying Flocks. The feeding of green food to the laying flock is considered essential by many of Centre county’s best poul- trymen. The question as to how much to feed is widely discussed as some feel that too much can be fed, while others are of the opposite opinion. Five pounds of green food per 100 hens per day, is considered a sufficient amount for the laying flock. While no single green food is recommended, it is definitely known that cabbage, sprouted oats and carrots are wexcel- lent green feeds. —Between Thanksgiving and De- cember 17th, the U. S. department for the transmission of money orders is- sued 541,738 money orders to foreign countries and involving an exchange of '$7;836,288.57. And more amazing is the fact that this is an increase of ‘$1{018,154.65 over ‘the money issued to foreign countries for the Christmas season of 1925. ‘Great Britain of all European ‘coutitries, shows a decrease. — Scrapple and Pawn Haus are Glorified Pig. While the casual breakfaster may not know what the scrapple is with which he fortifies himself for the day’s grind, there is a literature on the subject, written chronicles that £0 back to 1789. And for decades before that the Dutch hanusfrauen in Penn- ivanie turned out their “Pawn- aus.” “PAWN-HAUS” SCRAPPLE’'S ANCE S- TOR . Pawn-haus, originally probably only pork gravy and cornmeal, is the worthy ancestor of the scrapple of to- day. Were it not for pawn-haus, an economical dish discovered when pork was rare but cornmeal was plentiful in the Colony, there probably never would have been evolved the scrapple of a hundred thousand breakfast tables in these fat times. There are scoffers, of course, who aver that scrapple is not of native origin. They say that the early set- tlers hrought their recipes for pawn- haus from the Rhineland, whence they came. Ask these inconoclasts whence their proof comes and they point back to one Benjamin Rush, who published a pamphlet in 1789 entitled “An Ac- count of the Manners of the German Inhabitants of Pennsylvania.” But if they will read this work of the learned writer to the end, they will , discover that travelers returning to i Europe from Philadelphia carried en- thusiastic accounts of two Pennsyl- vania delicacies—scrapple and cinna- man buns. EVEN PARIS ORDERS SCRAPPLE. In all the world there is only one real and veritable scrapple, and that, is a product of Philadelphia. Packers in the West have attempted to make and market scrapple, and chefs de cuisines from many famous hotels and restau- rants have come here to learn its se- cret, and 211 have failed. Scrapple is exotic to all the rest of the created universe, although in recent years a large shipping industry has been de- veloping out of Philadelphia. Orders come even from Paris. Many have been the arguments about the origin of the spicy, succu- lent Philadelphia breakfast mainstay, and regarding its ingredients Jesse L,. Rosenberger in his book “The Penn- sylvania German,” makes mention of scrapple, which he describes as a “con- coction of sausage broth and corn meal, one of the more common dishes of the later times,” but he does not include it in his list of foods of the pioneers. It would seem that the early Ger- man houswife cheated the forefather of scrapple when she made pawn-haus and as the Colony prospered and the settlers had more livestock, she was able to add more savory items of pork to the corn meal and to season it with spices. Hence scrapple. A NEW SCAPPLE STORY. Gibbons in an article published in 1869 writes of “Our Dutch neighbors making liverwurst and omitting the meal” and of “Pawn-haus from a. li- quor in which pudding meat was boil- ed with corn meal added.” This var- iety of pawn-haus was taken to the markets in the larger towns. A venerable resident of Philadel- phia declares that his grandfather and others of German descent made scrap- ple in 1826. And so it seems scrap- ple has the dignity of an early institu- tion. One of the big Philadelphia plants used ten huge iron kettles, each with a capacity of 900 pounds. During October, November and December, height, these kettles are filled twice daily, turning out 18,000 pounds in nine hours. TRY THIS IN YOUR KITCHENETTE. And now we have the recipe for scrapple, or as much of it as we lay consumers are ever apt to get. It was furnished through the courtesy of a Philadelphia packer. It is simple, as far as it goes, but might be burden- some for kitchenettes. It follows: Take 700 pounds of hogs’ heads and fifty pounds of hogs’ hearts. Place to- gether in a rope net in a kettle with sufficient water to cover, and boil for two hours for stock. Take out and re- move all bones from the meat and run through a grinder. Put the ground meat back into the kettle with 100 pounds of cornmeal and fifteen pounds of rye flour and 300 pounds of lean pork trimmings. Boil three and a half hours, stirring constantly. Then add the spices. What spices? Ah, that’s the real secret and only a few persons know, and they won’t tell. It is the spices that give to scrapple its inimitable flavor. Without these, scrapple is only pawn-haus. And here’s a new scrapple story that was recently added to the legion that has been gathered. It seemsa Philadelphian sent scrapple to a sister living back in the scrapple-less Hinter- land near the Rocky Mountains. Com- pany came for dinner and she offered them a treat. “Brother sent me some scrapple from Philadelphia,” she gurgled. “Isn’t that grand ?” But it was her first contact with scrapple and it wasn’t a success. She served it as a dessert with sugar and cream. Radio Popularity Grows with Farmers. The enthusiasm for radio among Pennsylvania farmers continues to run high, if recent figures are in indica- tive. L. H. Wible, Director, Bureau of Statistics, State Department of Agri- culture, estimates that 27,863 farms were equipped with radio on January 1, 1927, as compared with 14,933 on January 1, 1925. While the largest number of radios are found on farms in counties near Pittsburgh and Philadelphia, there has been a surprising increase during the two years in the more remote counties. . The radio appears to be making a place for itself in farm life, as essen- tial for both pleasure and business, as the automobile and telephone. On January first of this year the radios on Jefferson county farms is estimated ‘at 883; Clearfield county 146; Clarion 308; Indiana 404. when the scrapple season is at its | SRE Law Favorite Profession of Pennsyl- | vania Governors. | ~The study of the law has been the favorite ladder up which men have climbed to the position of first citizen of Pennsylvania. Fourteen of Pennsylvania’s Gov- ernors had been engaged in the legal profession sometime in their career before entering public life. The lat- est of these is Governor John S. Fisher, also at one time a school teacher, as were seven chief executives of the Keystone State since the constitution of 1790. Mercantile pursuits have sent five candidates to success as Governor and next in numerical strength were grad- uates from the newspaper profession with four representatives. Two farmers and two manufacturers became Governors of the State while other professions represented by one each were soldier, minister, civil en- gineer, baseball player and forester, the latter being Gifford Pinchot. Many of Pennsylvania’s Governors represent more than one profession in the list. Thomas Mifflin, who served from 1790 to 1799 followed mercantile pur- suits up to the time he entered public life. Thomas McKear who followed him from 1799 to 1808 was a lawyer while Simon Snyder, his successor, the Governor from 1808 to 1817 was in a mercantile business. William Findley, from 1817 to 1820, was the first farmer to be elected Gov- ernor. Previously he served in var- ious public offices. Joseph Hiester, 1820 to 1823, became a soldier after a few years of following mercantile pursuits and John Shulze from 1823 to 1829 was six years a minister be- fore becoming Governor. Later he en- tered business life. George Wolfe, 1829 to 1835, studied law after finish- ing his early school education. Be- fore being admitted to the bar he be- came a public office holder, finally be- coming the chief executive. The second farmer-Governor was Joseph Ritner, 1828 to 1829, his sue- cessor David R. Porter, 1839 to 1845 was an iron manufacturer. Next in line was Francis R. Shunk, 1845 to 1848, teacher and lawyer; William F. Johnston, 1838 to 1852, lawyer; Wil- liam Bigler, 1852 to 1855, newspaper publisher; James Pollock, 1855 to 1858, lawyer; William F. Packer, 1858 to 1861, newspaper publisher; Andrew Curtin, 1861 to 1867, lawyer; John W. Geary, 1867 to 1873, school teacher and civil engineer; John F. Hartranft, 1873 to 1879, lawyer; Henry M. Hoyt, , 1879 to 1883, lawyer and school teach- er. Robert E. Pattison, 1883 to 1887, a lawyer early in his career, was the only Governor to be re-elected for the second term. He served his second term from 1891 to 1895 succeeding James A. Beaver, a lawyer who served between the two terms. Daniel Hart- man Hastings, 1895 to 1899, was a school teacher, editor and lawyer while his successor, William A. Stone, 1899 to 1903, was an attorney. Samuel Whitaker Pennypacker who served from 1899 to 1903 was a school teach- be er. Five of Governor Fisher's immedi- ate predecessors are living. Idwin S. Stuart who served from 1907 to 1911 was a book store proprietor be- fore becoming Governor. John K. Tener from 1911 to 1915 was a base- ball player in his early days and a manufacturer before entering the gov- ernorship; Martin G. Brumbaugh a school teacher and school superinten- dent; W. C. Sproul was a newspaper published and Gifford Pinchot a for- ester. Few of World’s Great Cut Hours of Sleep. + It is often said of great men that they needed and took but few hours of sleep. It is true that in their de- sire to accomplish as much work as possible they have spent no more hours in bed than was necessary, but those who found that less than six or eight hours would suffice them were very few. Alexander von Humboldt, Linnaeus, Cuvier, Dumas, Bismar’ and the composer, Dvorak, are all the four-hour sleepers I have come upon in a long list of distinguished men. Napoleon, who is sometimes mention- ed in this class, took from six to eight hours and did not hesitate to nap in the daytime and even in the midst of : conversation. He could go for long periods without sleep, but he always condemned himself to correspondingly long periods of rest afterwards, sleep- ing on one occasion for 35 hours at a stretch. Goethe was a very sound sleeper, and Descartes, who is said to have | done more original work than any man ‘of his century, slept a great deal. | Brahms could sleep at will and under any conditions, and Dumas, “after writing for some hours at a stretch, would suddenly fling himself on his bed, and in a few seconds be sound asleep; 15 or 20 minutes later he would wake up again with equal abruptness and return to work—a giant refresh- ed.”—Scientific Monthly. —————— ee ——— Bill for Mothers’ Assistance Fund. A bill providing for a State ap- propriation of $4,000,000 to the Moth- ers’ Assistance Fund for the biennium 1927-28 has béen introduced in the House of Representatives at Harris- burg by Mrs. Lillie H. Pitts, of Phila- delphia. The bill, which was desig- nated as H722, was referred to the House Committee on Appropriations. In urging full legislative support of the proposed four million State ap- propriation, Stanley Bright, of Read- ing, chairman of the Statewide Moth- i Assistance Campaign Committee, said: “The Governor's budget for 1927- 1929 recommends an appropriation of $2,000,000 for the Mothers’ Assistance Fund, an increase of $250,000 over the last biennium. The budget recom- mendation says: ‘As this amount is matched by the counties, accepting the provisions of the Acts of Assembly, $4,000,000 will be available for this purpose.” ” ——The Watchman publishes news when it is news. Read it. RE . = FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. DAILY THOUGHT. When husband and wife, in their lives, combine, Each only lives for the other's sake; They are two silk threads which a man may twine Into one strong cord that no force can break. —Chinese Poetry. —The straight, simple, classic line: is being retained. If anything, it is more adhered to this year than it was. last season. Aagainst this back- ground, thousands of rich details are: being shown, and in these details. chiefly reside the new elements of the- new model. They have not yet been. made, but I am illustrating this arti- cle by drawings of my latest creations, and the spring models will be char- acterized by certain trends that are plainly observed in these. The styles change slowly nowadays, and every new gown I present suggests the big- ger change of subsequent ones. Every light change is part of a considerable change. The spring dresses will be gay, but I cannot say that they will be more: trimmed than last season. The big dif- ference is that they will be trimmed with springtime and summery things i instead of those that blend with the feeling of winter. A spring dress will always look more trimmed than a win- ter dress, even if the amount of trim- ming on both is the same. It is part of the natural quality of a spring gar- ment to look trimmed. Lames will remain popular in my collection. Silver and gold lame, apart from their stateliness and practical advantages, make women look young, and an important step toward making a woman look elegant is to make her look young; not because age cannot be elegant as well as youth—far be it from the truth!—but because a wo- man looks more elegant when she feels self-confident and self-contained. And I am sure that a woman who thinks she looks young feels all of these, and consequently endows her- self with the advantages which they induce. Of course, the great factor in dress elegance is personality, and, no mat- ter how much personality a woman may have, it will be repressed if she does not feel comfortable, physically and mentally. The idea of a favorite color has for long been a well-known personal note in dress, and many women have re- tained their individuality in this man- ner, making the same color recur time and {ime again in what they wear. Better still than one color is one note in the jewelry. Consider a wo- man who always wears pieces of jade. One day it may be a necklace, an- other day a ring, later a brooch or a ring of a bracelet. Maybe it is in an ornament on her hat only. But al- ways you see jade about her some- where. You begin to identify jade with her personality. When you see | jade elsewhere it recalls her. She may a thousand miles away, but you smell her perfume and visualize her fa- miliar walk or smile or mode of speech. : If she wore coral, instead, or amber or jet, the same note could be struck and held. She should wear, of course, the one that pleases her most and is best adapted to her personality. I know a woman who wears silver jew- elry. She was made to wear silver, and so true is this that if she wears gold it looks out of place, just as an apron would on a cow. | —Almost every one is wearing a corselette these days, it seems, and ‘there is no doubt that a corselette { does give one a smooth foundation for | the straight up-and-down frock that :is the mode. But when one has a i large abdomen and a diaphragm that | bulges as it should not, then the cor- ! selette must be selected with special care. A figure of this description ; needs the corselette with an inner cor- set like piece that holds it in snugly, | Yet comfortably, while the corselette {on the outside still gives the smooth, dnbroken slender line. | The hat that hides the eyes is be- | coming rapidly demode, and I am told by a celebrated modiste in the rue de la Paix, that she will not present any models this spring that contribute to | the continued popularity of this un- ‘lovely and unpractical style. Instead | of pulling the hat down over the fore- head the tendency will be to push the (hat back an inch or two, showing not only the eyes but the forehead. This modiste tells me that she is experi- menting with string as a trimming for some new hats—not dyed string, or fancy string. or even silk string, if you please; but plain, ordinary com- mon string. This trimming will give a lace-like edging to “picture” hats of Bangkok, and other exotic straws, that will be worn with lace dresses, making what Mademoiselle Madei- aine, of Drecoll’s, calls a “lawn en- semble.” : The lace dress, by the way, is going to be seen on all sides. Lace is spring- like, and lovely, but most of all, it is feminine to the utmost degree, and this explains its continued vogue. Not only in dresses but in lingerie lace is returning to greater favor than it has enjoyed during the past few seasons. The couturiers are employ- ing lace of various kinds—and all of them are making some lace dresses-— but the lingerie makers are interested chiefly in the insertion type, which means that the trimming is applied flat, and not in the old way of frills and flounces. So there is a new note in the return of this old trimming, just as there is something new about the return of other old elements of style. One couturier in the Place Vendome is using quantities of black lace. There is in his establishment at least one gown of solid black lace trimmed with something pink and gorgeous at the waist, and other gowns of black lace are mounted on foundations of pink that shows through, or pinkish mauve, or coral or other colors. Shrimp color and black are favored by many of the couturiers as a combin- tion this season.