+f ——— v—— — ff m— py Bellefonte, Pa., September 11, 1925. SSE, THE SMILE OF A LITTLE CHILD. There is nothing more pure in heaven, And nothing on earth more mild, More full of the light that is divine Than the smile of a little child. The sinless lips, half parted ‘With breath as sweet as the air, And the light that seems so glad to shine In the gold of the sunny hair. 0, little one smile and bless me! For somehow—I know not why— I feel in my soul, when children smile, That angels are passing by. I feel that the gates of heaven Are nearer than I knew, That the light of hope of that sweet world, Like the dawn is breaking through. THE MAN THAT WAS IN HIM. Four men smoked together on a wide veranda in the glory of late afternoon. The sunlight slanted down over miles of wild lands stretching in front, and shone gently into their eyes. A wind brushed past, as always at this country place. The four men were very much at ease. : ‘Three of them were alike; but one, the host, was set apart. Only at the first glance would they have seemed of a single breed. True, they were dressed with the same nicety, the same precision. They lolled with the same poise in their big chairs. But here the likeness stopped. Three were young men with unlined faces; the host was in late middle age, his hair gray, his fine, firm face graven with the trenches of a thousand battles. His hands might have been marble, for strength, yet the slim, long fingers holding the cigar were those of an idealist. “You explain your success as a railway builder by the fact that you learned the business from the bottom up, Austin?” one of the guests was saying. The host nodded. “But what explains your fame as a statesman, a sccial worker?” “The same thing—that I got to know men. I came to know how staunch, how fine most men are. I've never stopped studying them. It usu- ally is a most refreshing thing to go among them—not as a king goes among his subjects, but as one of them. I've often gone out unknown; and that is the way I’ve kept in touch with all departments of my railway lines. And I defy any one to go where I’ve gone, to do what I've done, and still remain a snob.” “It seems queer that you aren’t rec- ognized when you go out among them.” Austin did not reply for a while. His smoke cloud swirled off in the wind and he idly watched the length- ening, wavering shadows of the shak- ing tree limbs. It was a peaceful, lovely place, this country home of Austin’s—acres of cool forest wound about with enticing paths, wide gar- dens, still fragrant in the dying sum- mer, parked lawns and open meadows. “Men in overalls look very much alike,” he said at last. “Such expe- ditions have been the biggest influ- ence in my life. They taught me to trust and respect our fellow men.” He paused, for from somewhere in the rear of the house there rippled up to him the happy laughter of a child. The joy it gave him was incompara- ble with any worldly thing—John Austin was old enough to have young grand-children. “Yes?” one of the others urged him. “And I suppose you had some real ex- periences.” “One in particular that I thank God for, Would you care to hear about it? I A stretch of double track on a steep grale, a length of road that faded in- to gloom, a white cross like a famish- ed ghost with outstretched arms, and a giant warehouse, behind which all the northern stars were hidden—this was all. The world was lost in dark- ness, and Ol’ Ezram, seated with two companions in the lee of the ware- house, was lost in dark broodings. His name had not been Ol’ Ezram always. No one would guess it to look at him, but the old man had been youthful once, in the long-ago, and had not needed the prefix. Then he had had a last name too but even he had almost forgotten what it was. It did not matter at best. And now he was known the length and breadth of the vagabond world as OI’ Ezram. And the title fitted him. Sitting there in the shadow of the warehouse, his thin legs streté¢hed out, his white head bent a little on his breast, he seemed as some withered relic of a musty past. Not that his years were so many, but his life had been so hard. Men that walk the trail of ties age quickly, and the dice had never fallen right for Ezram. He seemed small beside his two companions, perhaps because he was trying to condense himself beneath his tattered coat. The winds, shrieking through a gap in the mountains, touched his old bones with cold. Then the man to his left struck a match to light his pipe, and Ezram’s face, in all its pathos, was revealed. It was a kindly old face, beneath its white stubble, but pinched and wrink- led like a fallen leaf. A thousand lit- tle lines about his eye-corners spelled good humor, if there was any sort of justification for it. But tonight, as OI Ezram waited for a freight, his long hard years were swinging back to him, and his heart was heavy, in- deed. Tonight his face was clouded, and there was a hint. of desperation in the somber glowings of his eyes. His two companions did not notice these things. They were looking out into the night. And the flaring match revealed their faces too. One was that of a middle-aged man, lined by trial, but strong in conquest. A stranger to ¥zram, he—not long on the road, per- haps. Portland Pete was the negligi- ble. His coarse face revealed nothing but a coarse nature and a useless life. The years were swinging back, and in Ezram’s mind they had all been wasted, The voices that had called him and lured him to the rocks at last. The joyous lands that he had always thought lay just beyond had been but fancies, after all, and the long road had had no ena. “Just beyond,” he said aloud. “And it wasn’t there at all.” . “Ay, what ye sayin’?” asked Port- land Pete. : The old man looked about and some- thing of his dauntless spirit crept back into his face. It was a kind of joke, after all, a cruel one, but yet a joke. So he cackled a little, in his funny old way. Great heaven!” exclaimed the stranger. “What are you laughing about?” “Might as well laugh, stranger. When ye get my age, ye laugh at everything ye can find to laugh at. An’ ye drink—hard—to make ye laugh easier. It’s a good ol’ joke, and I'm the goat. : “I thought I’d have a house by this time, and grown-up sons, and grand- sons. But the end of the road is as far away as ever. Just like you, I was al’ays goin’ to go some place, and there wasn’t no place to go. I thought by now I'd have a fire-place to toast my shins at— Look!” Ol’ Ezram pointed a stringy arm. “I don’t see nothin’,” growled Pete. “You see heaven, that’s what ye see. A light, burstin’ from a window. You know what that light’s from! It’s from a house, a home, where there’s a kind woman, and the noise of kiddies goin’ to bed, and the fire's a-crackin’. An ol’ man, that might ha’ been me, with a grand-son asleep in his lap. The col’ can’t get in there. No evil, no harm can get in there. And here am I—oh, God! here am I—sittin’ lonely and col’ in the dark.” The gloom tightened about them, and they heard each other’s heavy breathing. Then the old man laughed again. “To think how I've been fooled! Just to think.” And he sat there chuck- ling, lost in his ons thoughts. Trembling through the night came the far-off wail of a freight. The dark farms beside the warehouse stirred a little, and turned their eyes down the faintly-gleaming rails. It was almost time to go. And soon they could hear the en- gine, panting up the steep grade fo- ward them. The younger of Ezram’s two companions rose and stretched his legs. Still Ezram sat motionless. The headlight flamed up the rails now, and the other of the two stood up, yawn- ing. Although he was middle-aged, Ezram noticed that he had a youthful vigor. And now the train was roar- ing almost up to them, so with a final chuckle the patriarch rose too. The breaks squeaked, the train slowed down and stopped. There was switching to do here. “Don’t like this pebbly track—aw- ful on the skin,” observed Ol’ Ezram. “Guess I'll ride atop.” “And get booted off the first junc- tion,” said Pete. “What of it? We'll get to the next town with any luck at all, and we're goin’ to catch the Sunset Limited from there, ain’t we?” The old man was ‘skinning up to the top of a great red box car. The stranger followed him, and after a moment’s hesitation Port- land Pete brought up the rear. “No brakie’s goin’ to wander down this far between here and the first town up the hill. Booted off nothin’!” A brakeman’s lantern gleamed far ahead; the engines snorted and puff- ed; cars jolted and a conductor shout- ed orders. Then the train moved on. “Just switching?” asked the stran- er. “When she starts out like this, so steady like, you know she’s pullin’ out,” explained Ezram. And soon the warehouse, the length of road, and the stretch of double track were far be- hind them. It was an unusually steep up-hill grade they traversed, and the engines groaned beneath the burden. The three men rode in silence. Ezram lay with his white face bathed in starlight, his | tattered coat across his chest. The night wind swished over him and like- ly chilled him, but he gave no sign. In a little while they drew into the long, dark switchyards of a small city —a place of flaring fireboxes and im- penetrable walls of darkness, lights like fireflies and shrieking engines and nebulous clouds of smoke. The train stopped with a grinding of brakes. A brakeman approached with bobbing lantern, and the three tramps hugged the car top. Not that they cared if they were ordered off now, but it was always sport to fool the “brakies.” But that official did not look up. He walked down the length of the car, and they heard the rattle of coupling pins. A moment later the fore part of the train was jerked forward, and the three men saw that they were up- on its rear car. “Complicated switchin’ this,” ob- served Ezram. “Aw, this ain’t nothin’. We'd bet- ter skin off and lay for the Sunset Limited, or get kicked off.” “I kindo’ like to get pulled ’round. What's up now?” The train, by sundry advances and backings, and after much switching, backed into a dark siding. A brake- man approached and took out the coupling pins just ahead. Then he turned and walked back toward the engines. “Don’t quite figure this out,” said Ezram. “I do, you fool,” was Pete’s rejoin- der. “This car’s goin’ to be left here, and us with it.” “I guess youre right.” The old man sat up, and pawed his way into his coat. “We can wait the Limited right here.” Then a sudden recoil shot him full length into the car top. The train, moving forward, then backing, had struck the uncoupled car a shattering blow. ; “I just don’t quite get this,” mur- mured Ezram. “Mixed up orders, maybe. And where we goin?” The three men sat bolt upright, staring. There had been a mix-up of orders; the train, instead of moving steadily forward, had backed up again, and the force of the blow had propel- led the heavy box car along the track a way. And, strangely, its speed was steadily increasing. “Don’t quite like this,” said Ez- iram, “Can't say as I do!” Then, in a flash, they understood. The blow of the backing traim had started the car—and now it was run- ning away with them, back down the grade. a “We're on a siding—we’ll be wreck- ed cure,” Portland Pete shrieked. He stood up to jump, but OI’ Ezram, jerk- ing at his coat tails, pulled him back. “We're past it and on to the main track already,” he shouted—then, meditatively, “and goin’ lickety- split!” For a single moment they sat, dull, stupefied, their strength ebbing at their finger tips. The car moved like lightning now. Then OI’ Ezram scrambled to his feet. “To the brakes,” he shouted. He seized the hand brake of the car, and the others leaped to help him. The rusted shoes groaned; but slowly, in- deed, their speed was checked. The car, loaded with pig iron, had devel- oped a terrific impetus. “Pull, pull, you fool,” Pete begged. His great shoulders writhed—and all at once something pulled free. They could turn the wheel quite easily now, and for a moment Pete turned it round and round like a child with a broken toy. Faster and faster they plunged into the night. In the strength of his desperation Pete had broken the hand brake. “Now we've done it!” he cried. “Oh, if we'd just jumped—if we’d just seen and jumped in time. And now we're goners, we're goners, sure as—"’ “Shut up and let me think!” OI’ Ezram had released the brake, and now he stood on the car top, ap- parently unconscious of their swift descent, the tip of a skinny finger at his temple. He was a ridiculous old figure, erect upon the car top. He balanced himself on the rocking car as unconsciously as a ship captain on his storm-swept*deck. “We're goners, sure,” Pete was say- ing, as he fumbled with the useless wheel. “We'll jump the track in a minute. We better jump.” “Shut up and let me think,” Ezram commanded, louder than before. His coat tails flapped in the wind, like a scarecrow’s, but instinctively the oth- ers turned hopeful eyes to him. “So ye’ve busted the brake, have ye? But thank God, this is the steepest part of the grade.” Luckily for them, OI’ Ezram spoke the truth. If the grade had continued thus for long the car would have been derailed at the first curve in spite of the steadying influence of its tons of pig iron. As it was, they were hurl- ing down the darkness at a stupend- ous rate, faster than ever freight trains move. The lights of farm- houses streaked a second and were gone. The click of the rails was al- most continuous, and the white sign- posts trailed by like a procession of fleet- winged ghosts. “Are we goners?” asked the stran- ger. His voice trembled a little, oth- erwise he seemed unmoved. : OY’ Ezram turned toward him sharp- y “You're cool enough. No, you're not. And now I've got it all thought out.” : And thereupon he sat himself down on the car top. “But how, how?” Portland Pete was babbling. “We’re goin’ faster all the time. We’ll run into somethin’— some time, sure. Those fellows back there didn’t see us go, and they won’t send word ahead.” “You’re right there, son. Like as not they think we’re roostin’ back there on the sidin’, quiet-like, instead o’ floatin’ to hobo heaven. Leave it to a brakie to be bone-headed—haven’t I fooled ’em every day for the last for- ty years? Besides, it was darker’n pitch, and we didn’t make much noise at first.” “But, man! tell us what we can do.” “Lot’s o’ time, lot’s o ’time. Ten minutes, anyway, before we got to get busy. Now, here’s the proposition.” “Yes?” urged the stranger. His voice was steadier now. “There’s a place about ten mile from here where you can get off. There’s a little rise—and while we’ll likely be goin’ fast enough that we’ll go right over that rise, we'll sure slow down enough that you and Pete there can ‘op off.” “Thank God!” “Maybe you’ll sprain your ankle, or somethin’, but with any luck at all you can get off without any serious mis- ’ap.” “But what will happen to this car? This grade goes on for twenty miles, doesn’t it?” “The car—and I—"” The old man chuckled. “We be goin to take the chance of fortun’.” “And you're not goin’ to get off with us?” Pete asked blankly. “No, Iisn’t. I don’t get such a care-free ride as this often.” “But man!” And the stranger seiz- ed his shoulder. “It means death!” “I got my reasons. And Ill tell you ’em if you want to know. Only thing is, don’t object. This car is loaded with somethin’ all-fired heavy, and if we should bust into a train on this grade—" “But you're stayin’ on won’t help any.” “That shows ye got no foresight.” He paused a breath, listening to the clicking rails. “We go through a town pretty quick; but at this hour o’ night no one but the agent will likely be at the station. It’s pretty dark there, too. Comin’ through like a hell-bat, no light and no whistle, nine chances out o’ ten he won’t see us at all in the dark; he’ll just think it’s a hand car. If he does see us he won’t know what to do quick enough if there ain’t no- body to tell him, And as sure as sure, if this runaway car isn’t wrecked be- fore, we'll crash into the Sunset Lim- ited just a little beyond the town. It would be the worst wreck in the his- tory of the road—just as sure as God.” The stranger sat up perfectly straight. Pete leaned forward, breath- ing hard. Ezram forked about in his pocket until he found a match; then he looked at his old silver watch. Fast- er and faster sped the car, on into the yawning darkness. They could not see even the gleam of a rail. “What can you do, man? How can you save them?” asked the stranger tensely. “] stay on, and when we go hell- ‘bless you.” bent through the town I'll pass ‘em | the word to wreck us at the first de- railin’ switch.” “But it’s death—it’s death, I say. You'll be killed when this car is wrecked. You'll be killed if ye try to It was Pete, a sob in his voice, that pleaded. “Don’t argy with me, boys, I've got ! my min’ all made up. The brakies ! didn’t see us go, and the agent won’t see us come, and if I got off with you, there’d be a wreck—sure. You might ! as well get ready to ’op off. We reach ! that hill in about five minutes, at this , rate.” . | “You fool,” breathed Pete. “What | do ye owe ’em? Bunch o’ plutes that wouldn’t give ye a square meal if ye was starvin’. Don’t be a fool. Get off with us.” “Women and kids on that triin— | somebody’s women and somebody's kids,” was the quiet reply. “Maybe I can’t swing it, but I'm sure ready to give this old life to try.” “Maybe you're wastin’ your life.” “Maybe I am, maybe so. But I'll’ take a chance.” : For a flash no one spoke. The wind roared in their ears; an auto light on the highway gleamed and was gone. “I'll help you, OI’ Ezram!” the stranger cried. The old man turned in amazement, and they eyed each other in the dark. “But I won’t” swore Pete. “I don’t owe ’em nothin’. My life’s as good as theirs.” The car swayed as it shot about a curve. “No,” Ezram replied, after a mo- ment’s suspense. “It only needs one. And you're fairly young yet—good for several years. No use o’ any one but me stayin’.” “Do you think—do you suppose that I'd shirk when there’s work like this to do? The old men—and the women and children—are always first | off the sinking ship.” “But it’s wrong. My days are over. Don’t argy with me son. Get ready— hardly three minutes more. You can’t do no good by stayin’. Maybe you’ve got chil’ren yourself.” Ezram looked up hopefully. “Yes, but they’re grown up and in- dependent—" “Don’t either of you stay,” shouted Pete. “Plutes—that would kick ye from their doors tomorrow! We didn’t set the car loose. Let ’em take their chance.” “Hush!” The stranger turned to him, his voice hardening. “Old man, I'm with you—to the last ditch!” “Don’t be a fool, stranger,” urged Ezram. “I know you've got the nerve, but it ain’t needed. I'd get off too, if there was any other way of gettin’ word to the switchman. I'm an ol’ man, and my time’s almost over any- how. Don’t be a fool.” “I won’t leave you here!” “Then I'll have to boot ye off.” “You haven’t the strength. But I'll | play the game with you—Ilet chance | decide which of us iz to stay. Pete, give me your deck of cards—quick.” “1 won’t.” The stranger leaped toward him across the rocking car, and Pete, sud- denly cowed, sullenly drew out his soiled deck. : “Oh, you fools, fools!” he cursed. And now the older men were face to face again. “Do you agree?” came the same hard voice. “Yes,” sighed the old man; “I agree. The man with the low card stays.” “Ace low?” “Yes.” “You in this, Pete?” “No, I'm gettin’ off.” “Then draw, old Ez. Quick!” “T’ll draw—but if there’s any jus- tice in this world, I'll get the low card. No hurry—we’re almost a mile from the hill yet.” . The stranger struck a match, and it flared an instant in the wind. Each man drew a card. Then anothe:' match was struck. “Six spot,” said the stranger. “Four,” shouted Ezram. “I stay.” The other snatched the card from the lean hand, and struck another match. “You'd lie—even in a game for death,” he said, wonderingly. “Yours is a jack. I stay, instead. And now we're at the base of the hill.” Indeed they were. Portland Pete swung down the ladder, ready to drop off. The heavy car was bounding up the little grade now, and its wild pace was slowly checked. “You're a man, stranger,” said Ez- ram. “Let no one doubt it!” Their hands, fumbling in the dark, met and clasped at last. “And so are you, O’ Ezram. God . i you miserable . And OI’ Ezram disappeared over the side, his lean hands gripping the ladder rungs. The wind roared no more, and for a brief space the man on top thought that the car would not reach the crest of the hill. The chill lifted from his heart. But he hoped in vain, for slowly, steadily, the car crept on. It reached the top—and al- ost stopped. Portland Pete dropped off. But the momentum had been too great; and the stranger became aware that the car was speeding up again. He heard one sound: the voice of Port- land Pete, safe now upon the ground, shrieked down to him. “Oh, you fools, fools!” he cried. And for a moment the stranger felt all alone and afraid, at the shadowed exit of the world. Then a white head suddenly appeared above the side of the car, and some one laughed in the gust. The stranger sobbed—just once, as a child might,—and Ol’ Ez- ram climbed back aboard. “Fooled ye agin’, stranger,” he cackled. “Fooled ye agin’.” “Couldn’t you get off, man?” “Easy enough. But do you think, old scout, that I'd let you take this last wild ride alone. We'll ride togeth- er—and we'll jump together.” “And if we die, we'll die together.” “You said it. Besides, how do you contrive to pass ’em word, down at the station—goin’ fifty mile a hour.” “I hadn't thought of that.” “See, you ain’t got no foresight, stranger. Give me a piece of paper. Quick. Thanks. Now a pencil. And while I'm writin’ kick off a shoe and have it ready.” (Concluded next week.) you miserable Formation of Habits Makes for Lost Motion One morning I happened to be up early and went to a lunch counter res- taurant for breakfast at about 8:40. ‘The place was so crowded I couldn't get near the ceunter. But only 15 minutes later the rush was over and there were seats to spare, Fred Kelly writes in the Nation's Business Maga- zine. Which made me think that one of the silliest things about us human beings is our habit of all trying to be at the same place at the same time. Why shouldn’t there be more scat- teritg of hours of eating and hours of labor? Why must so many reach their offices at about 9 o'clock? Why should not subway and street car rush hours be more divided? Not jong ago I walked at 2 a. m. along a famous thoroughfare that a few hours earlier was bedlam. The street was quiet and delightful. I felt as if 1 should like to sleep all day when everybody else is getting in one another's way and do my moving about at night when others are asleep. Why not? Why couldn't more work be done at night? Half the men who go to offices at a certain hour do so only because the boss hasn't enough imagination to recognize tha* it isn’t really necessary. The chief statistician for a big in- stitution tells me that when he occa- ! sionally takes a day off and works at . his place in the country he is twice as useful to his employers as if he were at the office. Because he is in . a quiet spot, free from interruption, "he naturally accomplishes more work and his employers get the benefit. But if he were to ask for the privilege of doing all his work at home he un- doubtedly would be regarded as a shirk. His employers like to know that he is at a certain desk in the main office. Because it is necessary for a few people to do their work at the office, the boss fails tp recognize that it is not equally essential for everybody. What a lot of lost motion may be traced to following rules and customs —to doing what is generally consid- ered the proper thing! Honolulu Honolulu this time was a revelation. A magic wand had touched the place and transformed it, even as Miami and Los Angeles have been trans- formed. It is now a flourishing city in a setting of surpassing loveliness. There is life and progress and enter- prise on all sides. The down-town dis- trict has become metropolitan and up- to-date. The mountain sides are ter- raced with beautiful houses to which perfect roads, flower-lined, wind up- ward under canopies of great spread- ing trees. 3 One cannot be long in Honolulu without observing the racial problems whi® confront its administrators. Over 42 per cent of the population is Japanese, while only 8 per cent is American, British and German. The remainder is divided between Filipinos, Chinese, Hawaiian, semi-Hamaiian and Portuguese. I have seen a photo- graph of 32 school girls, each of a | different race or racial combination.— i John T. McCutcheon, in Hearst's In- ternational-Cosmopolitan. Her Own Fault The train was about to start when the door of a compartment containing a solitary commercial traveler was flung open and a young woman entered and dropped into a corner seat. After a while the traveler said, po- dtely: “Excuse me, miss, but—" “If you speak or annoy me I'll pull che communication cord,” snapped the girl. The train rolled on, and after a engthy pause the young man made another attempt to speak, but again the girl threatened to give the alarm. At last the train slowed up at a sta- tion and the traveler rose to his feet. “I don’t care whether you like it or not,” he said, “but I want that bag of strawberries you've been sitting on for the last six miles.” His Indifference “Hey there! hey!” yelled a hillside dweller to a bypasser in the big road. “I’ve. just hearn terrible news!” “Say you—p'tul—have?’ returned Gap Johnson of Rumpus Ridge, who was the bypasser. “Yes! A feller come a-runnin’ over che hill and told me another feller had told him that he’s hearn they was a- tellephonin’ out from town that the world is comin’ to an end day atter t'mor’ |” %Aw, well, I hearn suth’'n’ of the kind, but didn’t pay no pertickler 'ten- tion to the talk; I'm goin’ down to Shellback — p’tu! — county t'mor’.— | Kansas City Star. Small Girl’s Joy Ride After climbing into a parked auto- mobile and playfully releasing the brakes, five-year-old Jennie Verino of Providence, R. I, decided to see the thing through. She clutched the steer- ing wheel gamely and remained with the machine while it ran wild down a hill and into a fence. She made sev- eral attempts at keeping the car in the roadway, and at one point shouted to a boy playmate to ‘get out of the way.” She was unhurt, but the wheels of the machine were broken. Too Many Reindeer A census taken this spring in Swe den’s northernmost department dis- closed that the nomadic Lapps pos- sess 183,626 reindeer. The animals have increased 57 per cent since 1921, when the last census showed 116,979. The present reindeer population Is greater than Is consistent with the amount of pasturage available, w FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. DAILY THOUGHT. “God sent His singers upon earth, With songs of gladness and of mirth, That they might touch the hearts of men, And bring them back to heaven again.” —Longfellow, The dress of severe simplicity, the one-piece slip on over the head model and with little or no trimming, will soon make its exit from milady’s wardrobe. Yet this departure of a long-time favorite mode, enforced as it is, does not mean that actually women are to be denied the comfort and pleasure of wearing practical frocks that have come to mean so much to them. Rather, it is to be un- derstood, has the dress of our choice simply been made to take on some de- sirable details that add interest to the mode of the one-piece dress. The embarrassment of plainness that had, without doubt, become somewhat mo- notonous is to be eliminated. In a dress of fine wool a French de- signer introduces box plaits at the froat to provide the greater detail of design and the skirt flare that makes the straight-line, one-piece dress mod- ish and acceptable for autumn wear; but there are other examples at home as well as from abroad where the back flare or the side flare to the skirt, com- bined with yoke and front fullness, tucked pannels, cascades, interesting collars and the application of trim- ming, provides the details of enhance- ment now demanded by fashion for the long-time favorite, the one-piece frock. Bordered fabrics, both silk and wool are decidedly in favor for autumn and winter dresses, but, in keeping with the style trend in design, the straight line simplicity that prevailed in sum- mer frocks of bordered material has been forced to give way to more in- teresting development of these deco- rative fabrics. The flare and greater skirt width being so generally demanded, it might seem to be impossible to provide these by bordered materials along with the practicability of the one-piece frock of our present understanding, but de- signers both here and abroad have conceived wonderful results along lines decreed by fashion, yet conform- ing to the demands of busy feminini- ty for ease of adjustment, youthful- ness, comfort and good style. However, though new dresses and apparel generally are elaborated by cut and ornamentation, millinery is conservatively trimmed, and some hats are noticeable chiefly because of the scarcity of trimming employed. Distinctive in the group-of untrim- med hats are the turbans of velvet, | where trimming is conspicuous by its absence. Where trimming is employed rib- bon is extensively used, sometimes flatly plaited and correspondingly flat- ly applied, or is actually part of the hat; as, for instance, where a wide ribbon forms a high standing crown- line for a small velvet shape or tri- corne points to a round turban or wing-shaped sections to a large brim- med hat. The vogue of painted doll faces as ornamentation, seen on many acces- sories of dress, is likewise exploited as a hat trimming, the queer little heads in many instances having flow- ing locks or closely cropped hair con- verted from ostrich in some form. : Clipped ostrich is used as facing on turn-back brims of medium small tur- ban-shaped hats of velvet, and in fact all the various forms of ostrich are see1 in the autumn showing of new hats—not an extravagant use of os- trich as in the days of the willow plume, but a discreet use of this love- ly trimming that fits in beautifully and most appropriately with fashion’s ruling that there must be this com- ing season more decorative details in woman’s dress. Greater detail in cut and in trim- ming is the accepted vogue for au- tumn, judging from the new clothes, dresses and coats in particular already exploited. Front, side, back and all- around flares and fullness, long sleeves with many types of wrist fin- ish, higher necklines often finished by a collar are outstanding details. No definite or concentrated move- ment in the raising of the waistline is yet noted, but the varying position of this important feature gives rise to the prediction that the natural waist- line will, before long, be rather gen- erally stressed. Already there are for evening wear may lovely dance frocks with a de- cidedly normal placement of the waistline, but the examples of this trend in day-time dresses are still few and far between. However, the fact that the waist- line placement in day-time dresses var- ies almost bewilderingly seems to sub- stantiate the contention that a decid- ed change in waistline placement is not far off. In the meantime coat dresses, bolero frocks and more fitted effects in straight-line models add a new interest to new dresses for au- tumn and winter. The coat suit is becoming more and more popular, and it is predicted that by spring this very smart and prac- tical attire for street wear will be en- joying some of its old-time populari- Y Naturally the return to favor of the coat suit means a renewed interest in biouses and skirts, and the former are already quite well represented by de- cidedly tailored shirts of wash-silk shirting in white, in stripes and in the lovely blues, tans and grays that have for some time been popular in men’s negilgee or sport shirts. Autumn apparently brings no change in the vogue of scarfs unless it be an increased interest and a wider use of these lovely accessories. No- ticeable among the new scarfs are small neck scarfs of silk and of wool in check plaid and multicolored de- signs, and others that, quite the Te- verse, are shawl-like in size, done in crepe silk, embroidered and fringed or decorated with multicolored ap- pliques of crepe in cubist motifs on painted backgrounds in two colors. 64 inch squares of glove silk deeply and effectively bordered by designs done in brocade effect are new shawl squares, that, as an outcome of the scarf as an evening wrap, are this season introduced in evening shades and for adjustment that makes them literally evening wraps.—Philadelphia Public Ledger. :