Deno ads. Bellefonte, Pa., February 6, 1925. PENNSYLVANIA! I was born in Pennsylvania, and I state the fact with pride; I am proud of all her mountains and her fertile valleys wide; Proud of her majestic forests, of her placid rivers blue; : Proud of all her wealth of blossoms, of her sons and daughters true. Happy is the man or woman who, like me can proudly say, «J was born in Pennsylvania, tho’ I've wandered far away.” Oh, those Pennsylvania mountains, rug- ged, rocky, high and steep! They are solemn in the twilight, when the somber shadows creep; They the fairest in the morning, when the rosy spirit of dawn Lays her finger on their summits, ere the shades of night are gone. Oh, those mighty, purple ranges, looming high and stretching far, Hiding-place of evening sunbeams, and of morning's latest star! Oh, those Pennsylvania forests—slender maple, stately pine, Mighty oak and beech and chestnut, ‘round whose trunks the wild vines twine! And the scarlet-fruited cherry, and the locust white with bloom, And the willow, drooping sadly, o'er (per- chance) a forest tomb. Oh, those leafy, silent forests, with stray sunbeams sifting through, ‘Where soaring wild birds send their songs far-echoing to you! Oh, those Pennsylvania rivers, and the lesser mountain-streams Dashing madly down the hillsides, bright with many hues and gleams! Dear old Lehigh, “peaceful water,” fair as any meadow-rill, Moaning, sighing, laughing, singing, in my dreams I hear you still! Quaint old Pennsylvania rivers—each still bears its Indian name— : Framed in legend, and deserving, to the utmost, of their fame. Oh, those Pennsylvania blossoms! arbutus, in the spring— Mountain laurel—rhododendron—these in turn their offerings bring. Daisies, white and blue and yellow, lilies red and lillies blue, Honeysuckle, sweet of odor—gentian, with the sky’s own hue. And, in autumn, glowing fields of gleam- ing golden-rod By the lavish hand of Nature strewn upon the woodland sod. Sweet I was born in Pennsylvania—in the ‘great- est grandest state— In the Keystone of the Union—best of all the forty-eight; For the gift the King of England gave to good old Father Penn Was the finest gift e’er given to the worth- jest of men. And proud and happy is the man or wom- an who can say, “I was born in Pennsylvania, wandered far away.” —Lydia M. D. O'Neil, in The National Stateman and Farmer, Pittsburgh, Pa. tho’ I've GIPSIES IN PENNSYLVANIA. In 1851 the Family Hearld, pub- lished in London, printed an article to the effect that a “tribe or family of Gipsies has encamped in the woods of Hoboken, on the opposite shore of the North river from New York,’ thus giving the impression that this marked the beginning of Gipsy life in our land. Yet the Pennsylvania Gipsies, a diminishing group, are au- thority for the statement that the first of their clan came to these shores at least a century earlier. According to such lore, and it is about the only source of information availible, when the great wave of German emigration headed toward Pennsylvania, numbers of Continental Gipsies who had wandered up and down the Rine Valley because im- bued with the same spirit of adven- ture and sighed for the new world. The “redemptioners” were swarm- ing to this state by thousands, and in order to accomplish their migratory aims, many Gipsies deliberately sold themselves into servitude, with the hope of reassembling at Philadelphia or Lancaster. Whole shiploads were lost on the way. Some of the ad- venturers died en route. Others were landed at Boston or New York or in the south. But some of them did reach this city and later made their way to Lancaster, which they made their headquarters, and by 1763 enough had foregathered to form a band which lived in the open, in the groves of great white oaks along the Conestoga and Mill Creek. : About that time came the first con- tact between them and the Indians. In the market place at Lancaster these two dark-skinned races met—- and seemed at once to distrust each other. So it was only to be expected that when the Gipsies left Lancaster in the fall of 1763, and as one of their first acts per-empted an aban- doned Indian camp, that trouble should follow. Colonel Henry W. Shoemaker, chairman of the state historical commission, thus describes what followed: “A redman came upon them there, and in the name of the tribe ordered hem off. They meekly went, and the Indian hurried back to his kindred to tell of the intruders, with the result that all of this particular group of Conestogas returned to their camp in Paxton Hollow, which became in a few days their wvalhalla. Shrewd Ulster Scots, noticing the Gipsy fires, the movement of Indians and the un- toward atmosphere of excitement, opined some sort an unfriendly ges- ture on the part of the hated Cones- togas and their fancied allies, and promptly spread the report along the Blue mountains. The story of a Bolshevik plot against the capitol at Washington could not have a more explosive effect on a Legion post to- day than this story of probable Indian reprisals to the self-constituted ‘Reg- ulators’ of the frontier chafing for an outlet for their pent-up patriotism. Mounting their horses, they swooped down on the unsuspecting Indians; the Gipsies had vanished, ‘they put on their invisible garments,’ to use their own phraseology, and the Indians were exterminated, down to the few remnants housed in Lancaster gaol for safe-keeping,.vho were brained, scalped and mutilated by the same blood-thirsty Paxton boys.” i. A majority of Pennsylvania Gip- sies were German-speaking, although nomads of other nationalities have been absorbed into their tribes. The Pennsylvania German Gipsies have had as their favorite harboring spots for a century or more Philadelphia, Lebanon (which they still call Stites- town), Lancaster, Reading and York. Many foreign Gipsies, Rumanian, Polish, Italian or Russian, have re- sorts at Scranton, Pittston, Wyoming, and in the vicinity of Pittsburgh. The English Gipsies wintered outside of ‘Pennsylvania for the most part, some in Jersey City, others in Chicago and Cincinnati. An old man who followed the road as drover, freight wagon driver and stage coachman, and in the Civil War as a teamster, thus describes the true German Gipsy of Pennsylvania of 70 years ago: “The men were of medium size, very slim and erect, with good features and large dark eyes; they wore their hair long; very little | hair grew on their faces, but they tried to culitvate small They unually wore a red sash under their coats, into which were sewed | leather scabbards or sheaths, where they carried long knives with dag- ger-like handles; most of the blades were made by their own armorers, and could be bent double without breaking. A dagger wasn’t valued much unless it had been steeped in human blood in an encounter, then it became priceless. A few carried con- cealed flintlock pistols, but the knife was the prime means of defense or revenge. Their favorite musical in- strument was much like a banjo, and they often sang a song or dirge about their ancestors having been dumped into Rotterdam harbor.” The early Gipsies in this state al- ways fellowed the principal rivers in their wanderings. spirits think of the present-day mem- bers of the tribes swifting about in motorcars, here, there and every- where! Yet these fortune-telling nomads are gradually disappearing. Along the line of march, since their first landings, some of them drifted into the set form of living. Many inter- married. The pure strain has almost vanished. Only once in a while does one come up with a group of swarthy types who seem truly indicative of the former wanderers—strang folk, ever following some dream of a world where there will be no houses, but where grass shall carpet and trees roof and wall the habitations of men. —Philadelphia North American. Farmers May Kill Peer Eating Crops Farmers and landowners have been given almost a free hand to kill deer at any time of the year they are found invading the fields and crops. This was decided last week at a conference held in Harrisburg by rep- resentatives of the State Department of Agriculture and the Game Com- mission. The farmers, who have been complaining about the ravaging deer, were well represented and the sports- men were not, An agreement also was reached that certain counties shall be open for the killing of female deer. Under the agreement, the farmer will be allowed the body of his kill as a claim for damage to his property, but will be required to make a report of all kill to the Game Commission. What will happen to hunting is problematical. The farmers have been given virtually a year-round season for both bucks and does. The deer hunters have little to complain about, as they failed to organize a defense. Allowing the farmers to kill off both male and female deer found among crops and in orchards will cut down the herds in those sections where the damage is greatest, but also will drive the deer back into the woods, where they belong. The ever-growing popularity of fishing in Pennsylvania is evidenced by the large increase in the number of non-resident licenses issued annual- ly by the Board of Fish Commission- ers at Harrisburg. The first one was issued in the State in 1919, and in that year fifty were granted. In 1920 the total jumped to 1,836; in 1921, 2,031; the following year, when resident fishermen’s licen- ses were required, 203,061 of that kind and 2,768 non-resident licenses were issued. An increase of more than 12,000 ap- plications for resident licenses was shown in 1923, while the non-resident total rose to 2,931. Last year showed the greatest in- crease in resident licensss. The total came up to 47,118, though the number of non-residents increased only slightly over the 1923 total. “Great Seal America Designing the of Some time ago an account was given of how the great seal of the United States was designed. Frank- lin, Adams and Jefferson were ap- pointed to select a device on a certain well remembered day—-July 4, 1776, no less, and there was much discussion regarding that important matter. Franklin wanted a design of Moses dividing the Red Sea and submerg- ing the host of Pharaoh, with the mot- to, “Rebellion against tyrants is obe- dience to God.” Adams suggested Hercules and his club, while Jefferson preferred guiding of the children of Israel. Afterward the making of the seal passed into other hands and it was not until June 20, 1781, that the Great Seal of America with the eagle as it is today was finally accepted. ar—————— el r——— Proper Care of Palms. Regular watering is essential, but it is better to keep palms a little dry than to overwater them. Browning of the tips of the leaves indicates {rouble at the root, probably over- watering; possibly worms or lack of plant food. A palm which grows Hite new leaves a year is doing very well. What must their | Ee PLEASANT GAP. We are about up to the limit so far as snow is concerned; from accurate measurement we have a solid bed of about eighteen inches; Greenvalley and the mountain are boasting of hav- ing twenty-five inches. Some snow! Our Legislators tell us they are going to speed up business to discount all former efforts of Senate and House for years gone by. We had an abund- ance of wind-work, but they are very | slow to put into practice what they preach. The constituents are eagerly awaiting results, as time is passing. The deep snow. has proved quite beneficial in a financial point of view to several of our industrious boys who are not afraid of disagreeable weather. They can be seen every morning with shovel on their shoulder after a fall of snow, glad to know that they are cleaning up quite a lit- ‘tle bunch of coin, and they are enti- tled to all they can get; since the av- ocation is a pleasant one. Our - up-to-date and wide-awake sportsmen have done everything pos- sible to alleviate the suffering of the small game and feathery tribe during this long extended cold snap and the deep snow. They are watchful in the extreme, regardless of expense; they : are doing their part, for all of which sideburns. : they have the thanks of the public. ‘The organization has now eighty members and are composed of good, liberal public-spirited men. Harry Markle, milk man, it is ru- mored, expects to build a half-dozen tenant houses in the early spring; this is a very commendable action on the part of Mr. Markle, as tenant houses are in great demand at the Gap at this time, since there is not one vacant house in our village. It is to be hoped others will follow in Mr. Markle’s foot-steps. All, or nearly all rents are soaring upwards, and our workers are obliged to pay the in- crease or remove to territory away from their work. Even if building material is almost out of reach if i twenty-five new houses were erected here they would find tenants on com- pletion, at a good rental. Earl Rimmey, who recently secured a job at Lewistown, quit last week and returned home. He alleges that the corporation asked him if he would not purchase a house from them; the houses ranged from three to four thousand dollars, and ten dollars a week must be paid out of their sala- ries. This did not appeal to Earl as he owns a very desirable lot here and expects to build the coming spring so that he can neighbor with his many friends and relatives. The ten dollars a week is a good thing for those who never saved a penny heretofore; of course if they neglect to keep up their payments they are liable to forfeit what ‘has already been paid on the premises. I am not a prophet nor the son of a prophet, but have made a superficial study of weather conditions for the past sixty years. From the present indications I look for a short winter, ! and an early spring. I base my judg- ment on three noticeable incidents. First, all fur-bearing animals are car- rying a very light coat of fur. Sec! ond, when we have a lengthy cold spell in the early part of the winter we can invariably look for an early breaking up of the inclement or long- | | drawn out winter. Third, when there is a shortage of berries to bridge over the small animals and feathery tribe, a just Providence comes to the rescue of these innocent sufferers. Of course we will have to await the result. We have five state policemen sta- tioned at the Gap; they make their headquarters at the residence of Thos. E. Jodon. When they first came here many of our people seemed somewhat alarmed and feared that they might be a source of serious trouble in our quiet community. In this they were agreeably disappointed; instead of be- ing the cause of untold trouble, their presence has really proved beneficial. They are very orderly and attend strictly to their assigned duties and prove themselves to be rather desir- able accessions. The tune has chang- ed; instead of being undesirables they are respected by the entire communi- ty; thy have proved themselves to be human, as well as the rest of us. Rev. Wagner, of Boalsburg, our Lutheran minister, is making many friends in this community. His ser- mons are noticeable for their logic and eloquence. Our congregation at the Gap were very fortunate in secur- ing his services. When an able and good man, great in his goodness and good in his greatness comes to the front he adds to the capital of brains and hearts; he bestows on his fellow- men the advantage of his learning and culture, his experience and eloquence, his talents and his genius. e en- courages etlucation, literature, art, science and human progress in all its highest phases. He aids materially in weeding out arrogance, self conceit, pretention, tyranny and hypocrisy out of the human heart. He lacks not the courage to stand up in the face of fashion and wealth, and tell the truth as he understands it. He is a moral teacher of taste and judgment, whose well-balanced mind is controlled by common sense and judgment. He never loses his head among the clouds. It now looks as though we would have another butcher shop here in the. near future. A young man is renting the Gettig meat market and expects to embark in business here. Being curious to know what Mr. Lex, our butcher, thought of the new venture, I called on him and this is what he says: “The fact is two shops here cannot exist; however, this is a free country and all who want to can em- bark in business. So far as I am con- cerned, I have no rent to pay and have as good an equipped shop here as any in the county; I will sell only choice government inspected meats, am do- ing the best I can to accommodate my patrons, and am unable to make ends meet without peddling meats Tues- days, Thursdays and Saturdays of each week. One drawback here is that owing to the activities of White- rock and one not too lazy to work can be employed at home. Most are well- to-do and usually raise from two to four hogs yearly, thus about one-third of the year very little meat is sold by the butcher, If it were not for my three days’ visit to Axe Mann, Belle- fonte and Coleville I would be com-'! pelled to close my shop. There is no’ law on the statutes to prevent a man from starting into business anywhere; I am not worrying, as I expect to be in business here for some years (lo come. It is astonishing how wonderfully ! conditions have changed in the last seventy years, not only as far as our climate is concerned, but in business changes as well. Something like sev- enty years ago that wonder of the age as a wholesale dealer, A. T. Stewart, of New York, thought business was slowing up, and more stringent ac- tivities were about due. He went to a trunk manufacturing concern, or- dered t:;o hundred sample cases, he then advertised for men and inside of a week started out his aggregation with his careful assignments of ter- ritory to be covered; other dealers had | to follow suit or go bankrupt. This was the origination of the present day system of having our country flooded : with commercial tourists or traveling salesmen, instead of our merchants being obliged to go to the eastern markets every spring and fall to make their purchases to carry them over the whole year. The novel change as a natural consequence caused some- what of a rise in our varied commod- ities, and as a matter of course the consumer paid the fiddler. A. T. Stewart was a gainer; he claimed, up to the time of his death that he held at least fifteen per cent. of his vast increase in business advancement. The retail dealers are also benefitted, in as much as they can now make their purchases at home and save the ex- pense of two trips a year to the city. Sixty years ago we had in Belle- fonte a very creditable number of ac- tive business men; I could name all of them, but expect in the near future to write up a complete list of all the bus- ines; men who were actively engaged in business activities, showing up their characteristics, etc. They were | a good and active bunch; but death called them hence; today we know them only from memory. Only two survivors exist now, Capt. C. T. Fry- ; berger, of Philipsburg, and Levi A. Miller, of Pleasant Gap. Frank P. Green and grocer Sechler were among the last to answer to their final roll call. I often think our lives might be prolonged with proper care and dis- cretion. It is the duty of every mor- | tal to live as long and as well as pos- A Rr ls rar i — AARONSBURG. Mrs. A. J. Irey spent several days in Danville, the guest of her daughter. Charles Summers, of Williamsport, has been the guest of his brother-in- law and sister, Mr. and Mrs. John Wolf. Mrs. J. Z. Haffley, after several weeks’ illness, during which time she was confined to bed, is able to be about the house again. Mrs. J. W. Beaver, of Pottsgrove, spent several days in town among for- i friends. While | mer neighbors and friends. While 11 bead embroidery. here she was the guest of Mr. and Mrs. George E. Stover. Mrs. William Miller, ef Orange- ville, Ill, after spending several weeks with her uncle, James E. Hol- loway, and her cousins, J. H. and H. E. Crouse, left for her western home on Wednesday, the 28th. Wyle.—Mrs. Jacob H. Wyle died at the home of her son, J. R. Wyle, in Medina, Ohio, January 31st. Mrs. i Wyle was born December 24, 1835, the daughter of Jacob and Elizabeth Hol- loway. Her husband preceded her to the world beyond twenty years ago. Surviving her are three sons, W. C. and B. W. Wyle, of Akron, Ohio, and J. R., of Medina. Two brothers, Frank A. Holloway, of Ceaderville, Ill., and James E. Hollowey, of this place. Mrs. Wyle was born and reared in this place and spent the greater part of her life here. Eighteen years ago she wnt.to Ohio with her son, B. W., mak- ing her home with him, and where she died. The three sons accompanied the body to this place where it was tak- en to the home of Mrs. Wyle’s neph- ew, J. H. Crouse, where short serv- ices were held Tuesday at 10 o’clock by Rev. F. H. Daubenspeck, of the Lutheran church. Mrs. Wyle was a consistent member of the Methodist church for some seventy years. In- terment in the Reformed cemetery in Aaronsburg. RUNVILLE. John Johnson spent Thursday at Philipsburg. : Forden Walker, of Snow Shoe, call- ed at Earl Kauffman’s home on Sun- day. E. R. Lucas came down from Al- toona on Sunday to spend the day with L. J. Heaton. Misses Catherine Rowe and Iva Lu- cas, of Bellefonte, attended church sible, not only in intellectual and spir- here on Sunday evening. itual health, but also in soundness and | vigor of body. That he who sins against his body and allows it to come ' to premature decay, or refuses to in- | form himself in respect to measures ! preventive of disease isasmuch a’ criminal as he who violates the ordi- nance of the State. While this is true of an individual it is equally true of a ° community. Experience has shown that no investment of time or money ' is so certain to bring a rich return as that devoted to the acquirement of a knowledge of the physical laws of health and the enforcement of sani- tary measures. It is desirable to know how to cure disease, but much more important to know how to pre- vent it. The r has ‘passed his 83rd milestone, and is desirous to live , us long as possible. If proper care is’ a safeguard, I think I might reach a hundred years or more before bidding adieu to my friends. “The laborer is worthy of his hire” and I believe in giving due credit to | those who so industriously make good ' in their varied vocations; this leads | me to write briefly regarding the progress and advancement of our five schools at the Gap. Heretofore we had a few teachers pretending to fur- ther the interests of our young and rising generation. The ones I refer to more particularly were teachers The Ladies Aid society of this place have postponed their entertainment until some time in March. Rev. E. D. Rowe expects to go to Julian on Tuesday to help Rev. L. T. Culp with his revival services Mr. and Mrs. Earl Kauffman and Mrs. Cora Witherite called on friends at Wingate on Sunday afternoon. Mrs. Paul Tueful, of Milton, de- parted for her home on Friday, after spending a week with her parents, Rev. and Mrs. E. D. Rowe. BOALSBURG. N. E. Hess, of visitor in town on Tuesday. Mrs. Vera Homan, of Centre Hall, is visiting her sister, Mrs. William eish. A little daughter was born to Mr. and Mrs. Ferguson, at the Tavern on | Sunday. Miss Emeline Hess has returned home after completing a business course in Williamsport. Oscar Smith entertained some boy friends at supper on Monday eevening in celebration of his twelfth birthday. Mrs. W. J. Wagner visited her : daughter, Mrs. J. F. Harkins, at State College, from Wednesday until Fri- ay. who would dismiss their schools close d to three o’clock daily, which was rob- bing the pupils shamefully, and in di- rect violation of our school code. Not so now, I am glad to say; our present teachers line up to the requirements of the law in this respect studiously— and why not? When the teacher has the shortest hours of any avocation— five days a week, and six hours a day, I must admit our directors are enti- tled to due credit in the studious man- ner in which they are handling this important proposition now, and the teachers as well. Prof. Baird, who leads as princiapl of our High school, came here as a practical stranger, on probation, as it were. However, his countenance shows culture and refine- ment and I am glad to say is highly regarded and beloved by his entire school. “He came, he saw, he con- quered.” While very strict there is no foppishness in his work and make- up; he never assumes airs of arro- gance and conceit, which are leading features of little minds. He came of good stock; but men of great intel- lectual girth and station are not mere “accidents of birth.” Baird has the strength of will and force of brain to execute his mission; he is making good and is congratulated by all for his energetic work. Next comes the olde veteran, Harry Breon, who has taught for over a quarter of a centu- ry; he is a man of colossal intellect, with a heart to match his mind; every one knows that he is a man of un- bending purpose and unconquerable will. Harry has no superiors and few equals in the county. He is very con- scientious and teaches his full six hours daily; he is a severe disciplin- arian. The other three teachers are all married women. Mrs. McArdle, Mrs. Elsie Rimmey, and last but not least, the invincible Mrs. Grove. There is apparently some little prejudice against married women as teachers; but the arguments are not well found- ed. As a rule they give more strict attention to their vocation than some silly, single adventuresses —ho pay more attention to their society affairs than to their schools; this applies only to some, as many are doing exce''~mt work. Our trio of married teaches are succeeding remarkably well; they are honored and respected by all their pupils; their methods are original, attractive, judicious and direct and self-assured as if they had certificates signed by the Almighty Father to en- lighten the universe of mankind. Yes, our corps of teachers are unquestion- ably beyond criticism. —The best job work done here. Rev. and Mrs. Moyer and Mr. and Mrs. Matthew Goheen were entertain- ed at dinner at the home of John Drei- Nets near Pine Grove Mills, on Sun- y. REAL ESTATE TRANSFERS. John Stoner, et ux, to A. Walters, tract in Millheim; $1. Maria J. Deshler, exr., to A. Wal- ters, tract in Millheim; $515. John L. Holmes, et al, to D. B. Kraybill, et ux, tract in State College: $550. Amanda T. Miller, et al, to David E. Washburn, tract in Bellefonte; $1,250. Flora Laffin, et al, to George W. Wither, tract in Rush Twp.; $1800. L. F. Mayes, treasurer, to S. D. Get- tig, tract in Marion Twp.; $3.92. S. D. Gettig, et ux, to Eliza Longee, tract in Marion Twp.; $3.92. : Charles C. XKeichline, et ux, to Myron M. Cobb, et ux, tract in Belle- fonte; $6,000. Leonard E. Deitz, et ux, to Cora D. Leathers, et bar, tract in Howard Twp.; $600. Lewis Stein, et al, to Reuben Jaffey, tract in Philipsburg; $6000. A. D. Gunsallus, et al, to Harvey Lutz, et ux, tract in Walker Twp.; I J. D. Keller, et ux, to Ida M. Wea- ver, et bar, tract in State College; $4500. Government Land Company to Charles Eiseman, tract in Burnside Twp.; $1. Jacob J. Shirk, et ux, to Bernard McGovern, tract in Bellefonte; $1075. Eleanor McCoy, et al, to S. L. Ful- ton, tract in Milesburg; $1. John S. Bush, et ux, to Samuel M. Shallcross, tract in Spring Twp.; $1,650. Mary E. Swarm, et bar, to St. Luke’s Evangelical church of Mill- heim, tract in Millheim; $1000. The Lusitania. The proposed salvaging of the Lusitania will bring to the surface not merely the tragic evidence of a deed abhorrent fo civilization, but sad memories of those who gave their lives that civilization might survive. tate College, was a. FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. DAILY THOUGHT There is an old proverb, “Beauty does not make the pot boil,” but it makes the dinner taste better. Borders of fur emphasize circular flares. _ Spring will introduce the low waist- line again. Afternoon frocks adopt velvet as their favorite material. Draped berets are finished with low- placed feathers. Bits of mirrors are apt to be used Mottled leather coats are trimmed with white fox. Brown, green and wine shades ap- pear great favorites. . Among millinery trimming notes of interest, gold leads. Long, fitted sleeves have fang. over the hands. ort gloves are worn with sleeve- less afternoon frocks. 7 For Palm Beach season, two-piece suits will be popular. Beltless tunic frocks are made of striped and plaided flannels. .. We find the skirt and jumper an ideal combination for sports. Painted felt flowers are appliqued on a large hat of black felt. Evening slippers of dull gold have tongues of brighter gold. cuffs Shown in budding spring millinery are stovepipes in straw, many of the Titan tone introduced in felts and in velvets during this winter. Such straws indicate the direction of fash- lon’s wind-blowing for the coming season. Not to all is the stovepir, becoming, even though always smar . but those _ Who can assimilate th shape find it extremely chic. _ The latest flare in garments is frown: the hips or from the knees. This flair for the flare takes the form of an inset circular piece, extending from each hip, especially in coats; the cir- cular being _ often further enhanced by the addition of fur banding, or frilling of self fabric. In skirts or those of dresses and gowns, the flare takes the shape of flounces, inset at about the knee line, sometimes ail around, again at either side. Such garmnt enhancement must be cut and applied by a master hand—no novice can properly accomplish it. You may have noticed that no mat- ter how important long sleeves have become, or how many stunning Hiodels ey dominate, the short sleeve scarcely covering the upper half of the forearm is still shown , great many of the afternoon and thea- tre gowns. There is undeniably a great freedom allowed in the matter of long or short sleeves for daytime frocks. In the same shop I noticed much the same model. This time in a love- ly shade of clear henna, which had long sleeves and a deep cuff of the brocaded material. Deep cuffs are the invariable rule on long sleeves for this type of dress. They relieve the severity of a long, tight sle:ve and make it look less like a business frock. Full cuffs, about six or seven inches deep, gathered into a narrow band at the wrist, are well liked. A smart young woman who came out last year and who is being enter- tained this season as extensively as any deb is wearing a clever little frock of black satin black crepe with full cuffs of red and gold embroidery. The front of the black crepe turns down diagonally from the left shoul- der to show an inner part of red crepe matching the color of the cuffs. Or the black front may be fastened at the shoulder with one of the tiny buttons: along the edge, and only a narrow bit of the red allowed to show, like one of the new very narrnwv collars. An insert of the red, accordion pleat- ed is inserted at the front of the skirt, about six inches wide and 20° deep, and bordered with red and gold braid. This is a frock which goes hap- pily to the bridge table, to the matinee: and if, occasion requires, to the res- taurant dinner; and reds, especially the Chinese and Russian reds, are: one of the season’s favorite shades, you know. The Bow Trimming—With it is fre- quently worn a clever little hat of black hatters’ plush rolled across the front, as nearly all small hats are now, and trimmed with a smart band and bow of red and gold metal rib- bon. And at the other extreme of the: lithe young figure, one sees the per- fectly plain opera pumps, either in black satin or velvet. These plain pumps are growing more and more: popular, and are shown in every known material, including snakeskin. Naturally, in a season where brown is queen, brown velvet suedes are favor- ites. The metal laces and the ravishingly beautiful metal cloths, particularly silver backed with pervenshe blue, or gold backed with cerise, are also a very good choice for Miss or Mrs. twenty to Thirty. These metal cloths are shown for formal wear, with only one shoulder covered, and a single: strand of rhinestones or twist of the: material holding up the other side. The model most frequently seen fol- lows the lines of the figure snugly to the knees, where there is a decided flare. More and more we are flaring from the knees down. Chanel does it with a lovely thing of silver lace over black crepe. Patou uses the flare on a blue fulgurante, with the -closely-fitting hips which properly go with a flared skirt. DeLong even shows it cn a stunning coat of black velvet. And so on, practically every well-known house is featuring it one way or an- other. If you do not care for the snug: bodice and the sharp flare, you may have the smart effect by a flounce, usually of lace. This is admirably carried out in a blue georgette, with a long waist and a flounce of white chantilly. There are brief sleeves also of white lace, and one of the beauties of this frock is the fact that both sleeves and flounce could be quickly removed or applied and an entirely new gown would result. : When one must count one’s pennies and a new gown is needed so often with so many gala occasions as we are having right now, something of the sort is a real friend.