Democratic watchman. (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1855-1940, January 30, 1925, Image 2

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Beweilti
Bellefonte, Pa., January 30, 1925.
— —
WOODROW WILSON.
(Born Dec. 28, 1856).
They called him Dreamer, and they mock-
ed his Dream,
But the long years mock not the eager
spirit,
Nor trample the great soul;
When our cheap wisdom dies, his faith
shall gleam
Like a young star that eager eyes inherit
As destiny and goal.
The little fears that hide the truth from
men,
The petty doubts that keep men from
aspiring,
He put them all aside,
Shutting all but his Vision from his ken,
And for his passionate faith and high
desiring
His life was crucified.
He did not care for plaudits and for fame,
He only cared that in a noble climbing
His soul might reach above
The sordid strife that takes life for a game,
And hear, beyond the strife, in heavenly
chiming,
God’s melody of Love.
Ah! God keeps watch above the little
years,
And while the recreant ages are entomb-
ing
The dreamers in their hate,
His clean winds blow away the idle jeers,
And, lo, tomorrow, in predestined bloom-
ing
Dreams drape the ways of Fate.
Above his sleep a lonely bugle blows,
Piercing the Silence with its lyric warn-
ing,
As from a citadel
Outleaning the vast
throws
The magic echoing cry:
Morning!
Day Dawns, and all is well!’
—Worrell Kirkwood, in the New York
World.
night a sentinel
“Behold the
PLEASANT GAP PHILOSOPHY
By L. A. Miller.
The great wonder is that there aie
50 many comparably well people in the
civilize world. It is no fault of those
who are well, that they are not sick.
They are well in spite of themselves.
They have scoured the earth, air and
ocean for fish, flesh and fowl, vegeta-
ble, fungus and mineral with which to
tempt fate. They eat these without
asking if they will be better or the
worse for it. If they get sick a doc-
tor is sent for who, like themselves,
has been scouring the universe for
specific remedies. He gives them a
dose, charges it up to them, they
either recover or die, and he sends in
his bill. :
Common sense philosophy is a great
thing to study. A great many have
asked how to go about studying this
sort of philosophy.. The first step is
to realize—not merely to believe—
that there is another side to every-
thing; also, that the visible side may
not be a fair index of the thing itself.
It will then be necessary to cultivate
an inquiring disposition. When this
is well established you will be a com-
mon-sense philisopher. It must be
remembered that doubting and ques-
tioning the truth of a proposition are
very different. The philosopher never
doubts. He may question a point, but
he never doubts it. He knows that it
is, or is not, and he makes it his bus-
iness to discover which it is.
Human nature manifests no less
contrariety than does the face of na-
ture itself, and is therefore just as in-
exhaustible in interest—in fact, more
so, for the face of nature only chang-
es with the seasons, whereas some
people are an ever interesting and
therefore a never ceasing enigma of
changeability.
When capital begins to combine it
is not for the purpose of robbing but
for the purpose of protection. Their
profits are declining and this is the
effort to restore them; and the result
of the combination is that some of
them are compelled in obedience to the
law of supply and demand, to go out
of business despite all their efforts at
resistance. When labor begins to
combine it is because they are getting
to be too plentiful; but notwithstand-
ing their combining and striking they,
as a rule, have finally to take less
wages; but it is useless to kick be-
cause the law that governs these
things is more indefatigable than hu-
manity itself. Really the combination
of anything only embitters humanity
against each other. It is certainly not
consistent; is scarcely moral, and can
therefore result in no good.
Those who excuse themselves for
not doing good because others don’t,
are only equaled in insincerity and
poverty of principle to those who
won’t work because others won’t. One
out of a dozen is a Judas.
. It may seem strange, nevertheless
it’s true, women are at the bottom of
the fighting business, unless the dis-
position is inherited from the purely
animal part of human nature. There
is nothing for which a man will fight
more fiercely than a woman. A man
would love a woman so that he hated
all other women and all men be-
sides, especially those who dared to
speak disparagingly of her. So jeal-
ous was he of her honor, and so solic-
itous for her comfort, and so anxious
for her preferment that he could bear
no interference or reflections of any
kind. He not only hated those who
thought of her as he did, for of such
he was jealous, but also those who
were rot of his way of thinking, for
such as these he considered unfit to
look upon her, much less to speak to
her or show the least familiarity.
Reader, let me implore you, as you
value every earthly happiness and de-
sire, please banish from your mind
this demon spirit, jealousy, and cul-
tivate it not, for it delights in human
misery, and endangers the peace and
happiness of every family. All those
beautiful visions one so fondly gazed
upon in youth, fade from our view,
and the demon, jealousy, takes pos-
session of our minds and destroys that
confidence and peace which can rarely,
if ever, be recalled. It’s the fiend of
human hapiness.
The power znd influence of a well-
regulated home is under estimated, for
nowhere is woman such an absolue
ruler as in her own household. The
table is a very important factor in the
sum total of its various departments;
and happy is the woman who has tact,
thrift and good sense enough to un- |
derstand and set up the merits that
lie in this important factor. Every-
body knows that plenty of well-cooked biiities.
nutritious food taken into the system ! night, and when
at regular intervals is the great con-
servator of health and strength. There
should be no indifference in regard to
this matter. A sound head and a
PEACE AND FREEDOM
3
| IN FEW POSSESSIONS
Moral in Little Story Con-
cerning Bill Smith.
| Bill Smith had no cares or responsi-
He drew
| his board bili was
: paid the world was his oyster. But
| the mattress on his bed was hard, the
| fare was monotonous, and his fellow-
sound heart have three-fold power and | boarders bored him. He yearned for
usefulness when dwelling in a sound ; @ house of his own.
body, and the housewife holds in her
In order to acquire the house and
keeping these conditicns for her | furnish it he began to work harder and
household. With these conditions the
plainest spread will be to the hungry,
appetizing and attractive. On e
other hand, though the meal be serv-
ed on costly plush and lace, or richest
damask and embroidery, in all the
hues of the rainbow, with neatness
and order left out, cheerfulness, and
j arn more money. Once established
under a roof of his own, he began to
find new joy in living; but the busi-
ness of dusting the furniture and
sweeping the floors and mowing the
lawn required more energy than was
! left to him at the end of a day’s work,
the sweet home feeling are apt to go | and he found it necessary to hire ser-
out too. Queen of the household, let | vants. The servants were much like
the housekeeper, whatever her station, ' the house and the yard. They needed
undervalue her high position, dut think looking after, and he was compelled
and work to make better and broader
its influence.
It must be admitted that a good,
conscientious minister is an indispen-
sible necessity. They get along well
year after year in the presence of
thoughtful and cultivated people. A
religious teacher should be endowed
with the keen vision and penetration
that will enable him to read and un-
derstand human character, and to dis-
sect the deeds and even the motives of
men. Depth and scope are of more
value to a minister or priest, if you
please than brilliancy of fancy and po-
etic diction. A pulpit display of in-
tellectual pyrotechnics, that flash and
hiss and whirl and blaze for a mo-
ment, and then go out, leaving char-
red and blackened frames and wheels
and an atmosphere of smoke with the
odor of sulphur, can graitfy only the
listener who has no capacity for con-
tinuous thought and is most moved by
startling statements and wonderful
surprises. A prominent man, in the
sacred desk or out of it, can only be
‘recognized as a star when he shines
with a steady light. When a great
and good man, great in his goodness
and good in his greatness, comes to
the front, he adds to the capital of
brains and hearts; he bestows on his
fellow-men the advantages of his
learning and culture, his experience
and eloquence, his talents and his gen-
ius. He encourages education, litera-
ture and art, science, and human
progress in all its noblest and highest
phases. He helps in weeding arro-
gance, self-conceit, tyranny and hy-
pocrisy out of the heart.
. The would-be politician who glories
in the noise he makes at a ward meet-
ing; thinks. he is eminently practical,
when he really is like the Franken-
stein image of wood, shaped like a
man, but too stupid to make a blun-
ro find a housekeeper.
| All of these things cost money, and
at the end of the first month he found
himself in debt. He was not dismayed,
however; he simply let out another
notch and began to make more money.
Making money is rarely a one-man
job. As he began to place more and
$40 every Saturday .
1
Wives Who “Look” Worse
Than Those Who Nag?
There are wives who “say things”
and wives who say nothing but look
quite a lot, says London Answers,
It might be thought that the nagger
—the wife who “says things”—would
be a far worse affliction than the wife
who “looks things.” But is that
really so?
A husband has every justification if
" he clears out to his club to escape the
tongue of the nagger. But what Is
he to do if his wife merely “looks”?
Vision him for a minute. He comes
home, has his evening meal, and pro-
' ceeds to smoke a first, a second, and
* minutes!
finally a third cigarette. His wife just
“looks.” But her look “speaks vol-
umes.”
“That’s your third cigarette!” says
her look. “The third! Three in twenty
More money wasted! It
. doesn’t matter what I want or have to
go without, or what is needed in the
house—oh, no! There's always money
for cigarettes! Three in twenty
minutes!”
The fire dies down, but he doesn't
notice it. So his wife puts more coal
on, and when her husband makes a
belated move to help she. just looks at
him. And he feels warm.
He cones homie late one evening.
{| His wife says nothing, but just looks
more irons in the fire he began to need |
managers, assistants, attorneys, not to
whom he did not come in contact.
Observe him now, a very successful
man. He has experts to manage his
industries, but he is afraid his work-
men will strike and cause him great
loss. He has mining concessions in
i
RE the remote thousands with
|
i
1
more and more helpers—secretaries, | things to be done at the office.
at him and then at the clock. He of-
fers his explanation—that there were
And
she looks at him again.
Perhaps friends drop in and, man-
. like, he says or does something he
' shouldn't.
distant lands, but he is afraid revolu- !
tion will wrest them from him. He
owns railroads, but he is afraid law-
makers will cripple them. g
great house full of rare treasures, but
he ig afraid fire will destroy them or
thieves carry them away. He has mil-
other nag at him constantly for a share
of them.
Only once in each month is he en-
abled to escape the weight of his pos-
sessions. Once a month he sneaks
away to his old boarding house to lie
on the hard mattress and enjoy the
peace and freedom that are the lot of
those who have few possessions.—
Baltimore Sun,
Powerful Telescope
Two famous astronomers from the
Ruman observatory at Nikolaiev, on
the Black sea, have been for some time
der, and can only go when he is wound
up by a master mind. The want of
thought, passion and imagination, he
mistakes for solid sense and profound
! glass works at Derby, while other me-
wisdom. The thinkers are the rulers
of the race; they live longer than oth-
er people, because they breathe more
of the pure atmosphere of immortali-
ty. They bequeath to the present and !
coming generations, wholesome laws
for the protection of the people; they
render decisions in the courts of jus-
tice and stand like milestones on the
road of progression, measuring the
distance that equity and science have
journeyed. The men of thought and
the men of action are the natural lead-
ers of mankind. That man is a mas-
ter who uses in the best way, proper
means to good ends; who puts ideas
into organization; who wields with
skill and power the complicated affairs
of society, who subjects the will of
others to his own will; who can fore-
see the train of everts that are com-
ing. Such a man, with nerve and
brain and heart is a natural ruler of
men.
We had a very strong endorsement
for the Baldwin apple some four years
ago, at Noll’s hall. Three College
trustees called the meeting at our
hall. The speaker said to the assem-
bled audience, we will place a box on
the stand before us; any growers who
want to ask questions regarding fruit
can place a slip into the box, which
will be gladly answered promptly.
Elmer Swartz put in this query: “My
old orchard has lived out its useful-
ness. I am about to start a new one,
what apples would you recommend.”
The query reached the speaker, who
said: “If I were to plant an orchard
of 1000 trees I would plant 999 Bald-
wins, and any old thing would do for
the odd tree. I raise more Baldwin
apples in my small orchard than all
others combined; I find that the Bald-
win is known to every fruit grower
and housewife in the north eastern
United States. .It is a staple on the
apple market everywhere. A bright
red winter apple, medium to large
size and attractive color, good quali-
ty, when grown under favorable cou-
ditions. The flesh is firm and brittle,
making it a splendid shipper and
keeper. The Baldwin is propagated
from a strain of unusual productive-
ness.”
The tree is a strong, vigorous, up-
right grower; long-lived and hardy
enough to stand the cold winter of
Canadian Lakes, but not quite hardy
enough to stand the cold, unprotected
regions of northern Maine. It bears
the seventh year. No apple has se-
cured so general popularity. My
word for it, farmer, you make no mis-
take if you plant the Baldwin.
Real Estate Transfers.
John C. Johnstonbaugh to W. H.
Johnstonbaugh, tract in Patton town-
ship; $9,000.
Arthur Ridgway, et al, to James
Williamson, tract in South Philips-
burg; $50.
W. W. Shultz, et ux, to Harry T.
Jones, tract in Worth township; $1,-
A. H. Krumrine, et ux, to J. M. Mc-
Kee, tract in State College; $1,200.
A. H. Krumrine, et ux, to R. B.
Henderson tract in State College;
Carrie E. DeLong to Jacob H, Wil-
liams, tract in Liberty township; $300.
in England supervising the ‘construc-
tion of the various sections of what
will eventually be the largest refract-
ing telescope in the world. The re-
fractor, 42 inches in diameter, is be-
ing manufactured at a famous optical
chanical parts are being made at St
Albans. The telescope will cost $75,-
000. It contains a mirror 8% inches
thick, which, weighing nearly 1,000
pounds, took more than a year of
grinding and polishing to make. The
refractor is being made specially
strong for the most accurate work.
Masculine Protest
Aunt Callie left her twins with
Sonny’s mother while she went to
shop. Sonny was having great fun
running his auto back and forth over
the kitchen floor, when mother told
him he must put the car away and
play with something else, as he was
making too much noise, and would
waken the bables. Sonny obeyed, pout-
ingly, and mother went on with her
work,
Aunt Callie finally returned and saw
Sonny lying on the floor with his head
on his arm,
“What’s the matter, Sonny?” sh.
asked, as she noticed great tears roll-
ing down his cheeks,
“Well, I just don't like this baby
pusiness,” he sobbed.—Chicago Trib
une.
Health for Busy Men
1+ am going to buy a car and drive n
to business so I will get some exercise.
1 figure the bracing three-mile walk
from a parking place to the office is
just what my system needs. It is evi-
dent that I am overeating. Starting
tomorrow, I am going to lunch in the
most expensive places. That is really
the most convenient and cheapest way
to take off weight. The doctor says I
need more sleep, but I am afraid that
will have to wait. Our company is put-
ting up a new building so we can have
some more vice presidents with private
offices, but it won’t be done till next
year.—Life.
Beetle Made “Hit”
fhe broadcasting of a beetle’s love
song to his mate was the feature of a
dua station of the British Broadcast-
ing company. The occasion was a nat-
ural history lecture, in which the life
cycle and habits of the beetle were
tae beetle, which had a special micro-
phone to himself, was permitted to
glve his call. Many radiq fans com-
plimented the beetle on his perform-
ance.
He Knits Socks
Robert K. Eastman, seventy years
old, of North Chatuam, Maine, is an
amiable gentleman who knits and he
isn’t ashamed of it either. He's so
pivud of his aceemplishment In this
respect that he exhibited at the Frye
burg fair a pair of socks knit from
wool which he raised and dyed. He
ives alone ard keeps hig house in im-
maculate condition, does all his own
cooking, and attends to his ferm work
in additlon.—Detro.c News.
, but b of one kind or an-
lions, but beggars: of 0 i love behind it, may not do good. But
His wife looks at him, and
if looks could kill him he’d die on the
spot.
And so it goes on. Of a truth, “look-
Ing” is worse than nagging, for a nag-
ger may make herself ridiculous by
repetition or wild statements. But
the “looker” is on safer ground. “I
He has a | just looked at him, my dear, and that
was enough!” Can’t you hear her say-
ing it?
That's not to say that now and
agaln a reproachful look, with hurt
that Is quite different from being a reg-
ular “looker.” .
In Northern Canada Woods
The country north of the Pas is well
furred; but there are a great many
white and Indian trappers in the dis-
trict, and one has to go quite a dis-
tance to secure a trapline not already
taken up, and a man-is lucky to make
any real money at the game. Some of
the trappers hardly. manage to cover
expenses many seasons. The country
is fairly well wooded, although the
timber. is small and in a network of
waterways. . Travel is by canoe In the
summer and dog train in the winter.
Best time to leave the Pas is late
in September or early October, when
a man can travel by canoe and locate ; 1
near to failing. The light weighs sev
his trapline, build his cabin before
winter sets in. Would estimate cost
i of outfit for two, Including canoe and
- license fees for a season, at about
$800. A man wants to go out well pro-
vided because he never knows what he
is going to run into.
Principal fur-bearers are muskrat,
oeaver, otter, wolf, lynx, marten, mink,
ermine, wolverine, bear, skunk, fox.—
Adventure Magazine,
A Browning Story
r’eabody Forthingham, the poet, tola
a Browning story at a meeting of the
Boston Browning society.
“An aged banker,” he began, “sala
to an aged broker at the club:
“ ‘Your beautiful girl wife declares
that your face is like a poem—a
poem by Browning.’
“‘Yes? chuckled the aged broker.
Here, try this cigar. You'll have a
drink, of course. So my girl wife
says my face is like a poem, does
she?
“‘Yes,’ answered the banker with
a harsh laugh. ‘She says your face
is like a poem by Browning because
it's got so many deep lines.”
World-Famous Painting
‘The famous painting of Christ be
lieved traditionally to have been be-
gun by St. Luke and to have been fin-
ished supernaturally has been, as a
preliminary to the celebration of the
Sixteenth centenary of the foundation
of the Basilica of St. John Lateran,
Rome, removed to the Basilica from
the Sanota Sanctorum, adjoining the
Basilica, where it usually is enshrined.
The ceremony last took place in 1913
on the occasion of the centenary of
the edict of Milan, and previously in
1900, the last holy year. It will also
. be exhibited next year, which has been
declared a holy year.
Defrauding His Public
“Oh, oh, oh—terrible, awful!”
groaned the chief broadcaster of sta-
tion WOOF as, tired but presumably
radio program sent out from the Lon- | happy, he returned to the bosom of
his family after the evening program.
“What's terrible? What's awful?”
demanded his ever-ready helpmeet.
For some moments the broadcastet
discussed. At the appropriate moment =f station WOOF was unable to speak.
Then, slowly lifting his tortured face,
he said: “Dearest, I—I forgot to say
‘Good night’ tonight when we signed
off.”—Life.
Still Unsolved
fhe sport desk telephone rang. “Sn,
ifsten,” said an anxious voice. “Ind
John L. Sullivan ever whip a mun
whose name was in four letters and
ended in A?"
“I guess he did if he fought him
ceplied the office boy. But the puzale
went unsolved.
Plenty of Officials
In Nova Scotia, with half a million
population, there are 10,000 govern-
ment officials.
Lvclution of Trade
Fark and Advertising
‘fhe trade mark was Invented ar-
ing a time of grand colonization. A
business house in Cathago Nova (Car-
thagena), which manufactured a de-
licious fish sauce and sent it to all
parts of the world in hermetically
sealed pitchers, burnt nine stars into
the containers. The nine stars were
the emblem of the sacred fish, the
dolphins. A big lamp factory in the
Roman Rhineland adorned all its
lamps with the utensils of eye special-
ists—which those people who used the
lamps should ever come to know!
Advertising, of course, grew more
and more luxurious. It was a favorite
child of commerce in imperial Rome.
Dozens of the best painters and sculp-
tors worked for the wool kings, silk
houses, and the big weapon factories
which grew up like mushrooms where
ever the Roman armies advanced.
People vied with one another in
erecting altars to the protectors of
trace and navigation; but on these al-
tars they inscribed the names and
trade of the donors. as a means of
advertising. The Roman business men
were as though seized by a fever of
competition. - Eurysaces, the pastry
king of Rome, used his own tomb as
an advertisement; his tombstone had
the form of .n enormous cake !—Ex-
2hange.
Legend Traces Hyacinth
to Sorrow of Apollo
The wild hyacinth was originally
found in Greece and Asia Minor. The
ancient Greeks had a story about Its
origin to the effect that one day the
god Apollo was playing a game of
quoits with a young mortal. Hyacin
thus, of whom he was very fond, when
Zephyrus, the god of the west wind,
passed by. Zephyrus was jealous of
Apollo and blew the latter's quoit
aside, and caused it to strike Hyacin-
thus and inflict a mortal wound. In
his memory Apollo caused these beau-
tiful and fragrant. clustered blossoms.
to spring from the fallen drops of the
youth's blood.
The hyacinth was brought to west-
ern Europe In the Sixteenth century.
and extensively cultivated by Dutch
horticulturists. The original blue and
purple blossoms were varied to nu-
merous shades of pink, rose, yellow,
scarlet and pure white.—Kansas City
Star.
Lighthouse Story
Eishop’s light rises near the Scilly
islands and gives a grim warning of
the dangers of the coast. It is one of
the most exposed lighthouses in the
world and the three tenders have a
lonesome time. During a recent storm
the beams from Bishop's rock came
eral tons and revolves ‘on supports
resting in a circular trough of mer-
cury. It is balanced so delicately a
child may turn it by a touch of the fin
ger. On this night the tower was so
shaken by the heavy seas that much of
the mercury was spilled out over the
concrete floor of the light chamber.
The three guards fell on their knees
scooped up the mercury in their hands
and poured it back into the trough.
Sunrising
When the sun approaches towards
the gates of the morning. he first
opens a little eye of heaven, and
sends away the spirit of darkness.
and gives light to a cock, and calls
up the lark to matins, and by and by
gilds the fringes of a cloud, and peeps
over the eastern hills, thrusting out his
golden horns, like those which decked
the brows of Moses when he was
forced to wear a veil because himself
had seen the face of God; and still,
while a man tells the story, the sum
gets up higher, till he shows a fair
face and a full light, and then he
shines one whole day.—Jeremy Taylor.
Making : ‘ne Distinctions
“A woman does not mind being
called a kitten, but hates to be named
a cat. A man, on the contrary, is flat-
tered at being thought a dog, but re-
sents being referred to as a puppy.”
“When a man describes a woman as
a ‘sympathetic soul.’ you know that
she has placed herself like a silent and
succulent sponge full in the flow of his
eloquence for a considerable number of
hours, while he declaimed to her his
‘conquests, glories, triumphs, spoils,’ in
an uninterrupted monologue of com-
placency.”—*“Mere Man,” by Honor
Bright.
Up Against It
“You've heard of a person being In
A quandary, haven't you?" Peterson
asked.
“Sure,” replied Brown. “Why?”
“Well, I just had a letter from an
old friend, and he’s in one. He's been
in rather bad health for some time, so
the other day he went to see a doctor,
and the doctor advised him to take
two or three months’ complete rest.
That's where the quandary comes in.
He's been working for the government
for 15 years and doesn’t know where
to look for a more complete rest.”
Settled Manhattan Island
in the first ship sent to the present
' cerritory of the United States hy the
Dutch West Indies company, the New
Netherland, which landed in the Hud-
sen river In 1023, Walloons, led by
Jesse de Forest, were passengers. The
eight . families left on Manhattan,
which was named “New ‘Avesnes,”
constituted the first settlement of that
now famous and valuable island and
the first homemakers, in fact, In the
Middle Atlantic states.
FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN.
DAILY THOUGHT
The real wealth of a nation is not in its
natural resources but in the industrial ef-
ficiency of its workers.
Red, white and beige are the colors
which the authorities of the style
world say will make the biggest flash
in the textiles next spring and sum-
mer. Reds, the authorities say, are
the big color note, with white and
beige, which is so close to white that
In many cases it will matter little
which is chosen, occupying the chief
position as backgrounds for printing.
An old ruling favorite, one that ap-
pears to come forward when design-.
ers and others are in a quandary, will
return to favor. It is royal blue,
which has been brought forth from
comparative obscurity and is playing
a strong comeback. As to browns,
they will, as usual, have their place,
simply being a question of selecting
the right ones. In printed silks, bor-
ders from pastels to primaries will be
the big feature.
A number of jewel tones have been
adopted in fabrics, and as a means of
further stimulating white and black
combinations in dress there are nov-
elty rings of white composition set
with black onyx. Featuring of white
sapphire as a fashionable jewel is also
looked upon to aid in the increased
use of white and beige.
In the sports wear field, it is agreed
that red, yellow and green will pre-
vail, with, of course, white holding an
Important place.
The National Cloak, Suit and Skirt
Manufacturers’ Association approved
style recommendations for next
spring and summer.
Skirts as an average will be worn
10 inches from the ground, and in ex-
treme cases 15 inches.
Sprightliness of style as well as of
color will emphasize the new spring
creations.
The slender silhouette effect will
continue the foundation for the new
season’s styles, and many new varia-
tions in the cut of garments will be
introduced, including the tunic theme
and circular cuts. But in all cases the
garments will be worn to achieve the
straight line, slender type. In sport
coats the mannish cut will be strong-
ly evidenced.
.. The shorter length skirt will have
its influence upon the style of new
spring coats, which will be somewhat
shortened in length.
The use of fur, which is so preva-
lent this season, adds much to the be-
comingness of the neck line. A great
many collars on imported models are
touched with softening fur. A high-
standing turnover collar, which is so
vastly smart, may be edged with the
narrow band of fur, or it may have
the band about an inch from the edge.
A standing collar on a black velvet
model, which does not turn over, has
a bit of ermine at the top, meeting in
two pieces at the front and continu-
ing down to the waistline. This iden
of continuing the collar downward is
frequently seen. ‘An afternoon gown
of dragon green has a collar of the
same material in a lighter shade. It
is in shawl effect, very narrow, meet-
ing at the low waistline at the front,
where it is tied in a smart bow and
goes on down to the hem of the pleat-
ed skirt. This is an idea which gives
length and is excellent for the short
figure. :
The Florentine neck line vies with
the straight across, held up by shoul-
der straps for evening wear. . A stun-
ning evening gown of black satin-
back crepe has shoulder straps of
rhinestones, which favor the continu-
ing downward idea as far as the float-
ing ribs. It is a pleasing change from
those which end abruptly at tke shoul-
ders.
A very new neck line for evening
wear has a strap over one shoulder
only, while the material is carried over
the other in a clever draped effet.
Such a model is for beautifully round-
ed shoulders only, but it is wonderful-
ly stunning. Callot shows a model
which even omits the single strap and
has the one-shoulder draping for its
sole support. Oftentimes the harsh-
ness of the neck line may be softened
by a shoulder ornament. Chanel does
this with an afternoon gown of black
velvet, which has a deeply rounded
neck. At the left shoulder is a knot
of narrow velvet ribbon, yards and
yards of it, with many, many flutter-
ing flyaway ends. And there is a de-
cided vogue for a camellia perching
pertly on the shoulder. Or a bit of
ostrich.
Many women never look so well as
when they step from their motors
with the luxurious fur of the wraps
coming up around their throats. Os-
trich collars for velvet wraps are won-
derfully youthful and are seen a great
deal when fur, for one reason or
another, isn’t used.
One house makes a specialty of
chiffon velvet capes with brilliant lin-
ings and the flattering ostrich collars.
Ching blue, lined with rose, and
jade, lined with orange, are stunning.
Nearly all collars for daytime coats
this season follow one line. They are
stiffly upstanding and are held that
way by two little snap fasteners on
the inside of the collar. Later when
the wintry winds blow, we are told,
they may be unsnapped and allowed
to snuggle up about one’s throat, but
at the moment they must stand away
smartly.
A visiting contess who brought an
amazingly smart wardrobe to Ameri-
ca is wearina a coat of black velrn-
wo, with collar and cuffs of ringtuil
opossum.
Cream of Onion and Cheese Soup.-—
Cook one-quarter of a cupful of diced
carrots, one stalk of chopped celery,
one cupful of sliced onion and ~ mine-
ed green pepper (freed from ceeds) in
eight tablespoonfuls of butte" substi-
tute until softened, but not browned.
Then stir in one tablespocnful of flour
and add gradually one genercus quart
of white stock. Simmer cently for 20
minutes and add one cunful of thin
cream, or top of the bottle, combined
with a beaten egg volk and salt to
taste. Beat with an egg beater for
a couple of minutes after the egg is
added (do not boi!) and serve sprink-
led with grated Parmesan cheese.
—The best job work done here.