SS Bemorvaic Mate "Bellefonte, Pa., October 7, 1921. ATE, “INVICTUR. Out of the night that covers me, Black as the pit from pole to pole. I thank whatever gods there be For my unconquerable soul. In fell clutch of circumstance I have not winced nor cried aloud. Under the bludgeonings of chance, My head is bloody, but unbowed. Beyond this place of wrath and tears Looms but the terror of the shade; And yet the menace of the years Finds, and will find me, unafraid. It matters not how straight the gate, How charged with circumstance scroll I am the master of my fate; I am the captain of my soul.” —=Selected. the THE UNFIT SURVIVOR The woman sat up, and pressed her palms against her throbbing head. Her wet garments steamed in the hot sun- shine. Hopelessly bewildered, she looked out on an empty world of sea and sky. But her face cleared when she caught sight of her companion. “Paul, I can’t remember. How did I get here?” she asked. The man made no answer, but look- ed at her swiftly, almost furtively, then turned to the sea again. To the east lay a barren island, ap- parently of volcanic origin, separated from him by scarcely a mile of quiet water, while north and south stretch- ed a line of surf punctuated by black dots and eloquent of the reef which girdled the island. But it was the un- interrupted sky-line to the west that held his strained attention. It was only after tremendous con- centration that she began to piece to- gether the events which had preceded her period of unconsciousness. Fil saved me, Paul?” she inquir- ed. “You were dashed against a rock and stunned,” he answered. “I man- aged to catch hold of you.” Had the man looked around instead of flinging this information over his shoulder, he would have seen the warm color flood her face at thé thought that it was he—he who had saved her. When she spoke again, her voice was tremulous with joy at this knowledge. “But—the others, Paul ?”’ “Dead!” he answered laconically. A dawning horror was swallowed up by thankfulness that they two of all in the boat—they two who meant so much to each other—had been saved. God was very good. “Thank God!” she said fervently. He looked round at that and a mad- deningly ironical smile played about his lips. “So you have reverted ?” he mock- “I can’t help it,” she said depre- catingly. “On the steamer it was dif- ferent, somehow. When we waiked up and down the deck and talked, words seemed to prove things and I was car- ried away by what you said. But now it isn’t words, Paul—it’s facts. Can't you see that it is by no chance we have been saved 7” “A miracle, then?” he scoffed. “It was no chance. Think! Just you and I, Paul, of all in the boat— you and I who love each other.” The man gave a little, mirthless daugh. “I'm afraid I can’t flatter myself by creating a Providence whose sole du- ty it is to preserve me and mine,” he said. “And, by the way, it doesn’t strike you, I suppose, that each of those others may have thought like you, may have loved and been loved.” He paused here as if he expected her to dispute this, but the woman covered her face with her hands and was silent. “You said just now that it was facts, not words, that counted,” he continued. “Well, here are the facts of your ‘miracle’ as I see them: “First of all, I am a strong man and keep myself always in a state of physical fitness; therefore, when dan- ger comes, I have nerves and muscles at command. That explains my pres- ence here. And that, while saving myself today, I saw you in difficulties and, glorying in my own strength, must needs show that I had enough for two. There you have it—stripped of glamour. It’s very simple.” She raised her head and he saw that the light had died out of her eyes. “Do you mean to say that you saved me practically from motives of vani- ty?” she asked. “It was rather like that, I own,” he said, groping for words to express the exact truth, “but you must make al- lowances, also, for the sexual instinct, which would naturally prompt the an- imal to preserve his mate.” “I hate to hear you speak of love in that way!” the woman exclaimed pas- sionately. “That’s because you're a hopeless sentimentalist, Christine. But this is a lot of talk about nothing, for we are not by any means saved yet. I'd like you to help me solve the problem of how we are to get away from here.” “Why, we can swim to the island! It’s only a little way.” “I’m afraid there are reasons which make swimming impossible.” “Reasons which—— Oh-h!” In a flash she had remembered the boat’s grisly following of sharks. “Look!” he said. She followed the direction of his gaze and saw a cruel, evil shape cruis- ing round their haven of refuge. It disappeared and, fascinated, she watched for its reappearance. *Yes,” said the man meditatively, “I saw one poor devil starting to sprawl onto this rock ahead of me. Suddenly he threw his arms above his head and went under, leaving a track of red froth behind him. At that I began kicking up the water with m feet and managed to keep them off, but it was no easy job to hold you and swim and splash all at once. There wasn’t much time for awaiting mira- cles, I can tell you. By the time I got ! moment of it. you here the place was alive with the brutes. It wasn’t a pretty sight.” “But you love me—Paul, you can’t mean it; you can’t mean to leave me He paused for a moment and then to a death like that. Think, Paul, all continued: I alone to watch death creeping nearer JAZZ IS SINGING HER SWAN SONG. Good-bye Jazz! The great god of “Some of the men crossed the reef and nearer—and such a death. To be topsy-turvy ragtime which has been and made for the island, only to be 'eaten by a fish! Oh, it would be hor- | tangling up the feet of Terpsichore picked off, one by one, and in the still rible, to finish like that!” water of the lagoon. One man—that “Sentimentalism again,” he argued jolly, red-headed chap you used to like : relentlessly. “Reasons; give me rea- so much—got about half way, but I sons.” suppose his strength gave out with the constant splashing necessary to frighten the brutes and at last I heard a faint scream and knew it was all up with him.” “Look!” she panted. He obeyed and, at a little distance, saw first one and then another dorsal fin cleave the water, apparently in at- tendance on some objects which were drifting towards them out of the white turmoil of the reef surf. He re- alized the meaning of the thing before she did and, at the thought that these mangled fragments were all that re- mained of men who had been their comrades, his face became distorted into the semblance of a Japanese mask, the mouth opening squarely in a snarl of horror. turned over was followed by the dis- by your sex. This ought not to be, but appearance of something that had been floating on the water. After a while this happened again, quite close, and the woman at his side shrieked. He turned, to find her convulsed by a paroxysm of vomiting and sobbing which, in its violence, threatened to part soul from body. The paroxysm terminated in a shiv- ering fit and then, at last, the man be- tween her and the horror. She be- came conscious that he was pressing her to his breast, while huskily and brokenly murmuring terms of endear- ment. “Hold me, hold me tighly,” she whispered, and his grasp tightened un- til presently she ceased to tremble and felt some return of strength. “We shall have to wait here until we are picked up by some ship or one of the other boats, then?” she asked faintly. “I'm afraid that can’t happen time, little one.” Womanlike, she roused herself at that and endeavored to instill fresh hope into him. “Why, Paul! The chances were all against our being alive now,” she said. “You musn’t lose heart yet. How long do you think we can hold out without food or water?” “That isn’t the point, Christine. This rock is covered at high tide.” in He had resisted an impulse to keep her in ignorance as long as possible, deciding that truth alone was admira- ble. With that decision, his humanity dropped from him and he became once more the thinking machine. “So, you see, the chance is so remote that we might as well dismiss it from our minds.” He paused for a second that she might realize the awful import of his words, and then continued: “It will be some hours The tide is going out now.” “And presently we shall be watch- ing it creep up, inch by inch, slowly, inevitably, and then Oh, God! God! Don’t let it be—don’t let it be!” She slipped to her knees, uttering vehement repetitions of the same prayer, until the thought that she was behaving like a coward and that he must scorn her for it, helped her to control herself. She rose to her feet and spoke his name timidly. “Paul!” His back was turned to her and he made no answer. “How you must despise me for rush- ing back to futilities at the first show of danger! Do you despise me? “Paul, speak to me! I've come to my senses now. Don’t let us waste this time, this little, precious serap of time that’s left to us. Let's live every There are things I want to say to you and things I must hear you say to me before—before ——" She faltered for a second and then went on bravely. “After all, death is no more real than it has always been, only a little nearer, and we won’t think about it till the very end, will we? We're alive now—we two—you and I, and re- member three nights ago you told me that you loved me.” He disengaged her arms from about his neck and pointed, without speak- ing, to something that was drifting towards them and which she recogniz- ed for an unopened biscut barrel which had been with them in the boat. Thereafter they watched it with breathless interest and a few minutes later managed to land it. She waited hungrily while Paul staved in the top and then, having seized on a biscuit, she paweed with it half way to her mouth to wonder why he was empty- ing out the barrel. As she was about to remonstrate, with stunning sudden- ress came the realization of all that this barrel meant. It was a chance of escape for one of them. At that, the biscuit dropped unheed- ed from her hand and all of nobility that was in her died. Flinging herself at his feet in a passien of tears, she besought him frantically to let her have the chance, in her state of panic not caring who should die if only she might live. He broke in on her en- treaties with apparent harshness. “Listen, and stop crying. This is no time for hysteria.” His roughness had the calculated effect of calming her almost instankly. He continued: “One of us is probably going to live and it has got to be the one who is most worth life, who will be of the most good to the race. Do you under- stand? If you can convince me that your life is more valuable than mine, you are welcome to this means of es- cape and I will stay behind. If not, vou must stay.” She stared at him with dilated eyes. Used as she was to his theories, she had never realized till now that they could embody more than a kind of per- verse philosophy, very fruitful of heated argument and with no relation to life. “Paul, you can’t mean it,” she gasp- ed. “Why, I am a woman and you are bound to save me by all the laws of chivalry.” “Sheer sentimentalism,” he remark- ed. yet. She tried desperately to wits together. “I was so happy, Paul, and I wasn’t wicked. Lots of people love me and would miss me. And then there’s the money. Money’s a big thing, isn’t it— a great power? And I will swear to do a great deal of good with mine. But if I die, you know Jim Treversk will get it, and he’s a drunkard and a waster, so—so you see I must live, don’t you, if only because of the re- sponsibility of my wealth ?” She finished breathlessly, scanning his face for a sign of relenting. “I didn’t ask you your worth as a member of society,” he said, “but as a woman, a human being, a perpetuator of the race. I’ve given you a hearing; gather her A flash of white belly as a shark HOW Jisjen to me; “To begin with, you are hampered iit became so when your female pro- genitors ceased to be strong, deep- chested women and became triumph- antly ineffectual ladies. Things being as they are, therefore, I, as a man, am stronger, more likely to survive hard- ships, to overcome obstacles. I, as a man, have power to generate more children. Leaving sex out of it, how- i ever, your constitution is inferior to came human, interposing his body be- | ine “Remember that just now, when you saw an ugly sight, you were sick! Also, my mind is more vigorous and sane. You become hysterical, emo- tional, superstitious in time of dan- ger; I remain a reasonable being. It is I who am capable of foresight, courage, strength—far beyond your small powers. I can save myself. You might fail. So you see, it is I who have the right.” He began to move the barrel. “Kill me before you go!” she pray- ed, but he got into the barrel and pushed off. Somehow she did not understand his words of hope that he might reach the island and by some means rescue her. But, if she had understood, she would soon have seen the futility of such a hope, for, once in the grip of the cur- rent, he was rapidly carried towards the open sea, despite all his efforts at rowing with pieces of the barrel-top. Realizing his helplessness, he pres- ! ently abandoned effort and gave him- self up to watching the solitary figure on the rock. She seemed stunned at first and stayed quietly as he had left her; then suddenly, unexpectedly, she gave vent to a series of wild, terrible shrieks that shook even his control. He had a momentary vision of a tragic figure with its arms flung to the sky—then she fell face downwards upon the rock and he heard no more. It was some hours later when the woman lifted her head. She did net know whether she had lain there a short or a long time till she saw the sun low in the heavens. Out to sea there was nothing visible upon the waters, strain her eyes as she might but, when she turned her hopeless gaze towards the land, she stared for a moment incredulously and then sprang to her feet. It was true—it was true! The tide had gone out—gone out so far that she might walk to the sterile-looking land almost without wetting her feet. She turned again to the west, scan- ning the sea for 2 black speck that was no longer there. Then came a revelation of the ironic humor of the situation and she laughed aloud.—By Katherine Harrington, in The Cosmo- politan. MYSTERY OF THE GREAT LAKES. Why does the water in the great! lakes that lie between a large portion of the United States and Canada rise and fall in periods which average sev- en years? This natural phenomenon has been a puzzle since the day when France held sway in Canada 200 years ago. In an unpublished diary of an Eng- lish traveler who voyaged up the ®t. Lawrence river to Niagara, Ontario, in the summer of 1785, the following ref- erence to this mystery of the waters: “A remarkable circumstance was told me by Mr. Pansee, our conductor, who had been constantly engaged in this navigation for nearly twenty years, and which he advised me is a matter of fact both from his own observation and that of the oldest inhabitant. Each year the St. Lawrence river settles or falls a little until the sev- enth year, when it is visible that it has sunk between three and four feet, and then for the next seven years it continues to rise in the same propor- tion. The river is at this time at its greatest elevation (July 1, 1782). 1 took great pains to gain some infor- mation of this uncommon phenomena. I find that the lakes have the same ap- pearance. Careful government records were begun about the year 1820 and since then it has been found that the per- iods between high and low water are sometimes as high as nine years. This year the water is again at its lowest in the lakes and river, and freight car- riers are having trouble in various harbors.—Selectad. Two applicants before the director of the U. S. marine corps institute at Quantico, Va., had spelled the word “grammar” as “grammer” and were making corrections when a third ap- plicant came along and asked: “What ! are you changing the word ‘grammar’ for?” “Why we gpelled it wrong,” answer- ed one of the applicants. “Give me that rubber,” said the third man. “Darned if I ain’t spelled it with two m’s myself.” —To train a colt to walk fast is a matter of months. To make a slow walker, hitch the colt with a lazy old horse and spoil him. If you wish him to walk fast start him that way. Put him in a place where he will have to walk fast, and then keep him at it. ————————— nes ——Subscribe for the “Watchman.” ! these many months and leading dance devotees through a maze of intricate | “side-slips,” “tail-spins” and other | grotesque pantomime is on his way | out. | Up and down the boardwalks of the I Jersey shore resorts, as one mingles i with the throng of vacationists in At- lantic Coast palaces of pleasure, nea: the close of another summer vacation, i there is to be heard the dying wail of | the musical monster—the swan song {of Jazz. Into his place in the orches- ‘tra leader’s pit, is stepping the sane {young goddess of Melodious Rhythm, ! scion or the good old days of “The | Merry Widow,” the “Waltz Dream” and the “Blue Danube,” harbinger of ; a new day of dignity, grace and sheer | simplicity in music and dancing. Wel- | come the renaissance of old-fashion- "ed harmony! | If the leaders of orchestras in the big beach-tront hotels of Atlantic City are to be believed—and they oc- cupy a strategic position to judge pub- lic sentiment as they observe tue tod- dlers and the fox-trotters—Jazz short- ly is to don a shroud and occupy a last slumbering place in the burial plot wherein John Barleycorn was interred. Just as Bolshevism was born out of the unrest following the war, so jazz was ushered in with the unrest attend- ant upon the demise of John Barley- corn. Now jazz is going the same way as Bolshevism. Remarkable, too, is the way this controversy over dancing in a prohibi- tion era is working out. “It simply cannot be done,” was the almost unan- imous verdict of very many hotel and cafe proprietors along the seashore strand, Broadway and other rendez- vous of pleasure-seekers when the Eighteenth Amendment was adopted and stimulating beverages divorced from the lobster palaces. Their argu- ment was that it required the bubbies of “joy-water” properly to set the feet of the dancers in rhythmic motion. But now come the dance orchestra leaders who declare time has proved this argument a fallacy. In fact, Max Fischer, leader of the Ritz-Carlton or- chestra at Atlantic City, is not only convinced that the art of terpsichore has not suffered any set-back as a re- sult of the passing of John Barleycorn but that, on the contrary, the drought i has benefitted dancing. “Go to any good restaurant or ho- tel in Atlantic City where there is a dance orchestra about dinner time,” ‘he said, “and you will have a hard ‘time getting in. In many places you will find people lined up for a consid- erable distanc waiting their turn to secure tables. Furthermore, where there used to be one boy or girl taking dancing lessons two years ago there are a dozen learning to dance today. “The passing of John Barleycorn has not hurt dancing—far from it. Those people who like music with their meals have nothing to divide their attention with dancing now ex- cept the food. You can get just as good a jolt out of the dance as out of a cocktail, and your head is clearer next morning. The day of jazz is done. People don’t want the tin-pan- ny squawk and the weird noises any more. The demand is for melodious rhythm. We are drawing on the clas- sics for our music for the dance and finding that this is popular. I have arranged ‘Kamenoi Ostrow,” by Ru- binstein, and his Melody in F for one- steps, not eliminating a single note, but changing the rhythm so that it is in one-step time—and it is always en- cored. We have made ‘One Fine Day,’ ‘from ‘Madame Butterfly,” and ‘Thine Own Sweet Voice,” from ‘Samson and Delilah,” into fox-trots, and they go “over with a bang. There are at least a half dozen others which have been similarly arranged and which hereto- : fore have been heard only at so-called ‘high-brow’ concerts. “The old-fashioned waltz is coming back into its own. I mean the waltz ‘of our fathers and mothers, not the hesitation. It is pretty and graceful, and this generation is beginning to re- alize it. The fox-trot still retains its , popularity, although of late it has been changed somewhat by the addition of ‘other steps. Most orchestras find they have to play it over all other forms of | dance music by a ratio of six to one in ‘point of popularity.” | aestro Fischer says the happy-go- luck musician who “fakes” his music is giving way to the bona fide well-ed- : ucated, experienced musician of worth. | “ i “There are a lot of alleged musi- cians out of jobs right now,” he said, | “and many more are finding them- | selves on the street every day. The : jazz faker from New Orleans who !couldn’t read a note is giving up his | place—and he has to—to the player i with a sound musical education, who | can read music and who can improvise, | if need be. I expect always to have in cians as I can get; and the fact that first-chair men ! chestras shows it is possible to get this | class of musician, provided, of course, one is willing to pay the price.” Tactful Hubby. “Before we were married,” said the young wife, “you used to bring me flowers every day. Now you never even think of buying me a bunch of violets.” There were tears in her eyes. he was equal to the occasion. “My darling,” he said, with great tenderness, “the pretty flower girls don’t attract me now as they used to do »” But After which of course, she told him flowers. LS Didn’t Hurt Them. A man was walking along the street and he drew near to some laborers, who were engaged in building a house. As he passed the scaffolding a brick fell, striking him on the shoulder. Looking up to the men who were two stories high, he shouted indig- nantly: “Hi, up there! You've just dropped a brick on me.” “All right!” responded one of the bricklayers. “You needn’t trouble to : bring it up!” my organization as high-class musi- | three of our orchestra at the Ritz were in philharmonic or-- that she didn’t really care much for FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. DAILY THOUGHT. A weak mind is like a microscope, which magnifies trifling things but cannot re- ceive great ones.—Lord Chesterfield. Knickerbocker suits are becoming the fad for women. They are to be worn generally for the street and are being made in winter fabrics and knit- ted materials. Coats are made to match, or in the woolen knitted suits there is a combination of color shown. Riding habits are made with an ex- tra pair of knickerbockers, to be used for walking, that match the coat used when riding. Dresses or separate skirts are being made that with the deft change of a few buttons a woman can change her dress or skirt into 2 knickerbocker suit and be prepared for walking at any time. | ’ Fur jackets are again conspicuous. Coatees are made of fur for the small woman. All fur sleeves. Coats are replacing the wraps in many instances. All coats are being belted this sea- son. Hand painted quills are used to trim the new tailored hats. Indications during the past week point to the revival of the felt hat. Tan and gray are the colors which are specially favored. Considerable cire lace is used, both in sash and drape effects. coats show mandarin FARM NOTES. —Pennsylvania produced 37.3 per cent. of the buckwheat grown in the United States in 1919. Her crop of 4,755,739 bushels was larger than that produced by any other State. —Poultry and bees are no small item in our farming activities. The value of poultry on farms in 1920 was $373,950,055, and the value of bees was $16,855,251. Add to this the val- ue of all the poultry kept in the vil- lages and city suburbs and there is a sum that outranks some of the sup- posedly much larger industries. —One part of the farm business which has continued to pay through good times and bad is poultry. First quality eggs continue to bring first- class prices. With the declining prices of grain the farmer who has a flock of well-kept hens is in position- to make some money with them, but Red, jade and black are being used for junior wear. Individuality rules. In shapes as well as colors. The large hat is smart; and there are quite as many small ones. All black is everywhere; and the high colors are quite as popular. More than for some time, one chooses the hat most becoming with- out slavish regard to Fashion’s whim. Colors new this season, and just a it cannot be done without giving them the same care that the good dairyman gives his cows. —The three most important constit- uents of a fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen is the most expensive constituent of the fertilizer and the one most likely to be needed first on soils. The le- gumes have the adaptation of using free nitrogen and storing it in their roots. Farmers may buy phosphate and potash, where these are needed, and grow legumes to put nitrogen and humus in the soil. —The hog, having a small stomach, requires water at frequent intervals. ‘It is a requisite to digestion and health. It is the cheapest essential in- gredient that enters into the make-up of the body of the growing pig. At the same time water is an easy con- veyor of diseases if it is impure, stag- nant or filthy. This shows the neces- . sity of having fresh water. Water as- thought different from any others, in- | clude pheasant, coffee, paradise. hon- eydew, Jiggs red and Dinty green. A glorified version of the willow plume hangs from many hats at the right back to the waist line. note is repeated in chenille, weighted at the shoulder with jet rings. Duvetyne occupies an important This sists the machine that transforms the different ingredients of feed into the form of bone, muscle and blood. A thirsty pig, worrying for a drink, is a waste of energy, strength and flesh. —DMulching the strawberry bed is highly important. The straw used in mulching protects the plants from al- ternate freezing and thawing. When plants remain frozen all winter and then gradually thaw out in the spring ;not much damage will be done, but " when left bare and the beds freeze and place in the mourning millinery. Its dull sheen has both beauty and quiet dignity. trimming. Alluring, bewitching, smart, it softens the face and adds | i 1 dash and charm. Chantilly is a fa- | vorite, but all soft laces are used. It ‘able. TiaY be Sraveq shout the brim, falling : decaying straw improves the mechan- piquantly, or it may swathe the hat, become a scarf at the neck and hang to the waist. All shades of purple are very popu- lar. These are charming when trim- med with the autumn colorings of frosted grapes and tinted leaves. A handsome imported model is a draped turban of panne vel¥et, which shades from deepest purple to mauve. The graceful, dashing black hat de- pends more on line than trimming. A shape seen frequently is wider at the sides than front or back. Distinctive ornaments noted were a single cut steel wheel at the front of one and ro- settes of cire ribbon, edged with silver lace, at the sides of another. Duvetyne in its soft, exquisite col- orings makes an entrancingly lovely hat. One in honeydew is embroidered thaw alternately in spring and dur- ing warm weather in winter great in- i jury is done to those plants left part- Whatever else one may do, one must ; |V out of the ground. not overlook the Spanish note of lace ! ulchy : i and it will also conserve moisture and Mulching will mean clean berries take the place of cultivation in the spring, when the latter is not practic- Mulching also keeps down weeds, and the humus made by the ical and chemical condition of the soil. The material used in mulching should be open and loose in texture. Leaves and sawdust pack down and are apt to smother the plants. Old - wheat straw is probably the best and in long pearl beads. Another, in Hard- , ing blue, has a wreath of laurel leaves | about the crown in green, orange and black. A model, extreme, but chic and indi- vidual, is a small, close shape with a coronet effect of sparkling jet. It has two long chin straps of huge jet beads. | » 2 p Ted . equal depth in all places, not neces- Beads, by the way, are much used ‘as trimming. They cover whole crowns or turned brims. Fish scale beads are glitteringly new. A flat, square, iri- descent bead in one or two rows is seen on many hats. And white beads on black felt follows the Paris idea of black and white. cheapest material that could be used, and sometimes straw, manure can be employed to good advantage. Care must be taken that no material is used that might be foul with weed seeds, as is often the case with some manures. In the fall of the year, when the ground freezes sufficiently hard to bear the weight of a wagon, mulching should be done. Should the ground be covered with several inches of snow, the straw may be placed on top, and this will prevent the snow from melt- ing. Snow makes an excellent mulch so long as it does not melt. A calm day should be chosen for the work so that the light litter may not be blown away, and it will be all the better if cornstalks or manure be thrown over the bed to keep down the mulch. The mulch should be spread to an sarily more than an inch or two, just enough to hide all the plants. —An overplanted orchard will re- sult in a rapid deterioration of the trees. They should be thinned out be- fore the branches begin to touch. Trees will not thrive in a wet soil and It is doubtful if any shape is more . this should be avoided by draining or universally becoming than the slight- | the ground will sour. In the latter ly rolled brim. It is shown this season = case lime should be applied. in a delightful variety of finish and 1 1 An orchard will sooner or later wear underfacings. The roll brim sailor of out where there is not proper prun- hatter’s plush in black or seal brown ing. Unsymmetrical heads, dead or is a distinctive complement of the dying branches, and a great growth of tailored costume. It was easy to guess that with full skirts and hip length bodiecs, or flat skirts and side draperies, the fabrics of the new season would be supple. { water-sprouts will be the result. : | | It should be the aim to correct such de- fects, to permit the entrance of air and sunlight and to facilitate opera- tions in cultivation, ete. Too heavy pruning of the top will For this reason crepe in its various | cause wood growth. By proper prun- manifestations remains the choice of | ing the trees will be invigorated and the majority of those who design errors of former years will be recti- clothes. in the recent collections, surprising as it may seem, but metallic brocade held its place of power for the evening and also for bodices which were joined to cloth skirts. Serge has something of a fling this season, but it is not de- murely treated. Steel beads and other devices to attract attention are used. The combination of serge and satin ‘has passed into the discard. Little i braiding is seen. Fur is used for | bands when bands are needed. And ! fur is simply treated. It is no longer , tortured. Neither metallic embroid- | ery nor figured impressions dent its : supple surface. Taffeta is rarely shown except in picture frocks for young girls. The { Dresden figurine coloring does not ap- i pear; a bold design of bright small flowers on a black background is used. For adults, taffeta, it appears, is dis- missed. Satin has not much chance for popularity. It even gives way to soft silk as a foundation skirt. Geor- | gette crepe is used in a lavish man- ' ner for evening gowns, when splendid beading or crystal work forms the con- spicuous feature of the frock. Probably the thing that attracts the lasting attention of those who sud- denly see its importance is the tight hip line formed by a girdle of gor- { geousness. This is the Oriental touch en most frocks, and on all frocks there is a lowered waistline which is invent- ed to balance the longer skirts. It is this that hits one between the eyes | with the full conviction that the ankle ' ekirt is here, not only for the minori- ty, but the majority. 1 1 i i | i | | 1 { | | Not much velvet was shown | fied. It is well to remove all the water- sprou#s, as some of them if carefully selected will help to form a new top and take the place of the decayed and old limbs. In cold climates heavy pruning should not be done until late winter or early spring, after severe weather is past. The wound should be made as near the tree trunk as pes- sible and parallel with it. In order to prevent decay, the large wounds should be painted. : When old trees are in an unthrifty condition or “hide bound,” the bark becomes shaggy and insects and fun- gi are harbored. Such trees should be | immediately scraped and all the dead and dying branches removed and burned. Cankers, gummosis, dead spots and borers and other wood trou- bles should be cut out. There is very little plant food in worn-out orchard lands, and they should be supplied by stable manure, cover crops, potash and phosphoric acid in varying quantities to suit dif- ferent conditions. The best way to supply nitrogen is by an occasional cover of clover or vetch. Stable manure will improve the physical condition of the soil as well as to furnish plant food. Where ni- trogen has been supplied through a cover crop, in most cases there will be an advantage in a dressing of one part acid phosphate, ground bone and muri- ate of potash at the rate of 1000 to 1500 pounds to the acre. It is import- ant that these fertilizers be varied in accordance with the age, soil and vig- or of the trees.