Yr Demorraiic atm Bellefonte, Pa., June 29, 1917. cm —— HELP TO HOOK THE KAISER. If you're a husky, healthy lad And looking for some action, I think the strife of army life Will give you satisfaction. CHORUS: Yankee Doodle, be a man, Not a temporizer; Give your aid to Uncle Sam So he can “hook der Kaiser.” Perhaps your feet are on the blink And you have broken arches; 'Twould cause you much distress and such On long and weary marches. Yankee Doodle, be a neat - Submarine capsizer; Join the coast mosquito fleet And help to “hook der Kaiser.” You say you're rather underweight And cannot stand the water? Your lack of weight should be a great Advantage, so it ougiter. Yankee Doodle, stay ashore, Be an early riser; Try the aviation corps And help to “hook der Kaiser.” Well, what's the diff if you can’t see A thing without your glasses ? You've got a chance to raise some plants And feed the warlike masses. Yankee Doodle, grab a hoe, Get some fertilizer; Make the spuds and onions grow And they will “hook der Kaiser.” If you can't stoop to till the soil Because of your lumbago, You lazy slob, we'll give the job To some ditch-digging dago. Yankee Doodle, please respond; Never be a miser. Go aud buy a Liberty Bond \ And strafe the bloomin’ Kaiser. —J. B. SPRAGUE, THE TOLL-GATHERER. The fall rains had undermined a section of the track and played mis- chief with a quarter of a mile of em- bankment. What was more serious, the hill stream, which had risen like the Ganges at flood time, had weaken- ed two piers and the retaining walls of the railway bridge. Doucy, company’s civil engineers, sent up posthaste from Delhi to re- pair the damage. He was to get the day laborers from the village three or four miles down the valley. They had helped in building the road and there- fore could be relied -apcn. Doucy found the job bigger than he had expected. The wrecked embank- ment did not present unusual difficul- ties, but the repairing of the stone- work was a more serious matter. Un- der the pressure of the seething flood, the big scows that held the workmen were continually slipping their cables, and either taking a few tons of water aboard at a gulp or sinking altogeth- er. Then the donkey engine had to had been fish out as many of the stout blocks as its grappling hooks could seize and yank up the scow. The men clinging to the network of life ropes below the bridge had to be rescued and indvrced to attempt the dangerous work again; all of which used up valuable tire. As the camp was large, it was nec- essary to send a bullock cart to the village every other day for rice, mea- lie flour, and other food supplies. During the second week one of the carts did not return. The next day a foreman who had gone to investigate found it in the road with a broken- necked bullock hetween its shafts. Some twenty or thirty yards from the rim of the bank that ran along the roadside lay all that was left of the driver. The spoor of a large tiger led off into the jungle, but Doucy and his trackers failed to run the beast down. Several days later the tragedy was re- peated. Another dead bullock lay in the red dust almost at the same point where the first had been killed. At the tail of the cart was the driver’s empty gun; the body of the driver was found under a tangle of flowering creepers. Doucy ordered a goat and its kid to be tethered on the bank, and that night and the night after he took watch on a platform built in the branches of an adjacent tree. But the tiger did not appear. As he had to keep himself fit for his work, the en- gineer let one of his assistants take his place in the tree on the following nights. Meanwhile the cart was sent out with a bodyguard of four picked men besides the driver, and thus es- corted, it made several trips without mishap. The coolies began to snap their fin- gers when the toll-gatherer, as they dubbed the tiger, was mentioned. He was a coward, they declared. He could overpower a driver asleep on his cart, but his heart failed him when it came to facing several armed men. They would burn his whiskers on the camp coals yet if he did not look out. Suddenly, however, a mad bullock cart came spinning into the camp with the ashen-faced driver crouching among its rice bags. All the others had been killed and eaten, he declar- ed; only his own extraordinary cour- age had saved his life. The attack had come like a bolt from the blue sky, and no vigilance could have fore- stalled it. Presently three of the cs- cort, dusty and covered with sweat, came running into camp; the fourth had been killed. The survivors all agred that everyone had been brave and that the toll-gatherer was invul- nerable. Everyone realized now that this was an unusually determined man- eater. The coolies refused to drive the supply cart, and were almost ready to break camp in a body. Doucy saw that he must himself get rid of the toll-gatherer if he wished to re- tain his workmen. He made his arrangements with some ingenuity. Out of some brown cloth and a frame-work of bamboo he put together a figure that wken stuff- ed with grass was a fair imitation of a man. He wound a dirty turban round its head, added clippings from the tail of his horse for hair, and roped the thing to the seat of the cart. The following day he got into the one of the | body of the cart with his rifle and | drove to the village. | Nothing happened on that trip or the next, but Doucy did not give up. On the third trip he kept as close a : watch as ever, and was particularly careful on his way back from the vil- !lage. It was a very hot afternoon. ! The groaning and squeaking of the _unoiled wooden wheels were the only sounds to break the heavy silence. ! The red dust eddied up round the cart in clouds. Doucy occasionally lifted | his head wearily to scan the surround- ings, but all he could sec was a red shimmer of heat waves melting into a brassy glare of sunlight. The decoy | sat vacillating on its seat with its tur- : baned head bowed forward in the ex- | act manrer of a sleepy driver. The dummy had been greased with cocoa- nut oil and well manhancled to make [it “smell right;” it seemed lifelike enough to deceive a hungry tiger. Doucy lay face down in his nest "tle except his khaki-covered back in | view. As they neared the edge of the ridge he heard a peculiar sound like | a passing gust of air; it was followed | ' by an almost noiseless but very jar- | | ring shock. He threw up his head in time to see the decoy, torn loose from its fastenings, in the clutch of a huge tiger. The pair instantly rolled from dashed straight at the bank. In desperate terror it actually scaled the lower part of the slope; but perceiv- ing that it could not escape in that di- rection, it wheeled again sharply. The | quick turn tipped over the badly bal- | anced cart; it came down like a box i on Doucy and the provision bags. All this happened in half a dozen | seconds. Doucy had hardly realized | his position when he heard a moan- | ing bellow from the bullock, and knew | that the tiger had grappled it. | Pinned on his back between the pro- | vision bags, Doucy felt the toll-gath- | erer give the dead bullock a tug that | made the solid cart quiver; but the | harness held. The tiger was puzzled, and for the first time he snarled. The sound was powerful and murderous. Then the tiger started to circle the Ei to sce what the matter was. | When he had gone half way around, | his footfalls ceased, and Doucy heard ' his heart pumping and thudding in | the ghastly silence. Then he became aware that one of the tiny chinks between the bags no longer showed a thread of sunlight. | Something had blocked it. He knew what it was before he heard the deep, | raucous intake of air with which the | tiger drank the odor of human flesh. | Doucy struggled to reach the rifle lying under his feet. The toll-gather- er tore at the obstructions. With a dry and horrible sound his claws rip- ped one of the bags. As the great paw gutted it of its contents, Doucy felt the bag loosen; then it collapsed like a deflated bal- loon and the cart settled a little on that side. It relieved his cramped po- sition just enough to enable him to grasp his rifle. He instantly thrust the muzzle under the edge of the cart. He had not a second to waste and, with the butt of his rifle pressed to his side, fired where he knew the beast must be. The answering roar of the tiger showed that he had been hit; but he was not crippled, for he threw him- self upon the cart and with great fu- ry tried to tear away the side with his teeth. Failing in that, he pushed his paw under the edge of the cart, and his unsheathed claws, sweeping fierce- ly through the low opening, narrowly missed Doucy’s face. Doucy aimed again instantly and fired. The toll-gatherer gave another roar that ended in a deep, gurgling cough that told of a wound through the lungs. Doucy heard a heavy thrashing sound and a rattling of gravel against the side of the cart. Then everything was as still as death except for the pounding of his own heart. Bathed with sweat and half stifled by the close, hot air under the cart, he waited a long time. There was no sound outside except the buzzing of hundreds of flies about the bullock. At last Doucy began to push away the dirt under the edge of the cart with the butt of his rifle, and when he had scooped a shallow trench he cau- tiously stuck out his head. Directly in front of him and a little below him, with ears laid back and body gathered in a tense crouch like a cat at a rat hole, was the toll-gath- erer. His mouth was open, and Dou- cy saw that his fangs, which at one time must have been unusually large, were broken and decayed like those of most man-eaters. de aimed his rifle at the knot of frowning muscles be- tween the fierce eyes, and was about to pull the trigger when the tiger leaped. But the effort was too much for the wounded beast. Just as Doucy shifted his aim and fired he saw the great body crumpled in mid-air. It fell only a few feet beyond where it had been crouching as limp as a rag. The toll- gatherer had made his last leap. Doucy crawled out from under the cart and cut off the stiff, black bristles from the fixed, snarling lips. The coolies would burn them on the camp coals that night with impressive cer- emony. Doucy was a thoroughly practical man, but he knew the native superstitions had to be considered. Probably the men would spoil a half day of work by dragging the tiger in- to camp the next morning and holding a triumph over the body. At any rate, the road was open again; the toll-gatherer would collect no more tolls.—The Youth’s Companion. DOING YOUR BIT. A little spade, a little hoe, A barrel of spuds that ought to grow; Some hard work in a broiling sun, In planting spudlets one by one. © Some blistering hands quite raw and sore, And bones that ache right to the core; But still your soul with joy is lit, For now you feel you've done your bit. But then alack the weeks roll round, And still your garden’s barren ground; And then you know, and know full well— That statement’s true—this war is hell. e————— —The big orang-outang goes to bed at sundown and refuses to see visitors after dusk. He is also an early riser. the cart, and the bullock wheeled and | "Gumshoe Bill” Stone in the Senate its | LIFE OF MAJOR GENERAL PER- Francisco. Two years ago a terrible SHING. For the first time in history the United States will send a force of troops for military purposes to Eu- rope, and to “Black Jack” Pershing, youngest of the major generals, has fallen the distinction of commanding this expeditionary division. “Black Jack” Pershing, as the men of the rank and file know the com- mander of the Department of the South, is the type of the soldier which Frederic Remington immortalized in his pictures of the Indian campaigns. Lean but rugged, his six feet and bet- ter every inch bone and muscle, he typifies the ideal cavalry officer. has been hardened by field service aad has been broadened in executive ser /- ice by several difficult posts in the Philippines. He cares little for swiv- el chairs and desks, but he dotes on boots and saddles, and in his Mexican between the bags, and with very lit-! ] Ci expedition he took his troops ahcad with such dash and efficiency that his command won the unstinted praise of foreign officers. General Pershing is fifty-three years old and his honors came with a rush during the last sixteen vears. Born in Laclede, Linn county, Mo., it | is fitting that President Wilson should shame the pacifist tendencies of and the anti-conscription proelivities of. Speaker Champ Clark in the House | by taking his first commanding otiicer to lead a force abroad from the “Show- Me” State. Pershing was appointed to West Point in 1882, and four years later was graduated as senior cadet captain, the highest honors which can come to any undergraduate of the mil- itary academy. Pershing had no time, upon gradua- tion, for any army post social activi- ties and play time. The wily old Ge- ronimo, chief of the terrible Apaches, was giving the Great White Father plenty of trouble, and among the reg- iments sent in pursuit was the Sixth United States cavalry, of which Sec- ond Lieutenant Pershing was a “cub.” He rode hard and soldiered much in the next ten years, chasing the In- dians over Southwest, and on one oc- casion showed the stuff that was go- ing to win for him in the later years. He marched his troop, with a pack train, 140 miles in forty-six hours. General Miles paid him a fine tribute for this feat, and pointed to the fact that Lieut. Pershing “had brought in every man and animal in good con- dition.” The man who will lead the division to France fought Apaches and Sioux Indians until the militaristic Poor Lo gave up the unequal fight and became pacific again. For seven years Lieut. Pershing never knew a promotion, but in 1893 he was raised to the rank of first lieutenant. He was assigned to the Tenth cavalry, the crack negro command that afterward won fame at the San Juan blockhouse. Because of the fact that he was appointed to the colored troop he earned the sobriquet of “Black Jack,” which has stuck to him since. ; The young officer applied himself to a study of tactics, an application which has since resulted in the acknowledg- ment of Pershing as the best strate- gist in the regular army. Such be- came his reputation even then that he was assigned to West Point as an in- structor on this subject. He did not vegetate above the Hudson long for the war with Spain broke out and Per- shing applied instantly for a place with the negro Tenth. His command was shipped to Cuba among the first troops of that expeditionary force, and he distinguished himself in the field. His colonel termed him “the bravest and coolest man he ever saw under fire,” while at the battle of El Caney Pershing was promoted to cap- tain for signal gzllantry in action. When the war ended President Mec- Kinley gave Captain Pershing a berth as the head of the customs and insu- lar affairs in the War Department. Pershing tired of the endless routine and was anxious to get back to the battle line again. So he asked to be sent to the Philippines, where the lit- tle brown men were cutting up rough with the nephews of their adopted Uncle Samuel. So to Mindanao Per- shing went as adjutant general of that department. Active command of the expedition to subjugate these tribesmen was fi- nally given to Captain Pershing, and after months of applied diplomacy and bullets he brought them into subjec- tion. He was made military Governor of Mindanao, and showed such execu- tive foresight and prescience in his dealings with the natives thdt the Moros chose Pershing to be a datto, or ruler. About a vear before Colonel Roose- velt, then President, addressed Con- gress on the ever recurring question of promotions in the army and navy. The promotions usually went by sen- jority, and the caste in the army was jealous of this tradition. Roosevelt, in a memorable message to Congress on December 7, 1903, wanted the sen- jority rule abridged, and specifically mentioned Captain Pershing as-a gal- lant and distinguished officer who was held back by a traditicn that worked havoe and harm to the men who might have ben. In the gallery during the reading of this message was Miss Frances War- ren, the daughter of United States Senator Francis E. Warren, of Wyom- ing. She followed the message close- ly, and when leaving the Capitol de- clared that she would like to meet the officer who merited such commenda- tion by the President. She evidently lost no time about it, for less than two years afterward the warrior and the Senator’s daughter were married. In 1906 President Roosevelt cut the Gordian knot in his characteristic manner. He jumped Captain Persh- ing over the heads of 862 officers, his seniors in rank and service, creating Pershing a brigadier general. Pershing was sent to Japan as mil- itary attache, remaining there a num- ber of years, and returned to the Unit- ed States in time to be sent to the Philippines to quell another Filipino insurrection. The pacified Moros had rebelled, but Pershing subjugated them, capturing a force of 7000 and ending the rebellion. Upon his return to the United States General Pershing was assigned to command the Eighth Brigade, with headquarters at the Presidio, near San | tragedy wrecked his happiness. | wife and three children, Helen, Anne | and Margaret, eight, seven and six { years old, | fire in the commander’s home. His were burned to death in a War- Pershing, five vears old, was res- | cued by servants. Although broken- hearted at his bereavement, General | Pershing accepted the blow in his im- ! passive, stoical manner. He was chos- {en by President Wilson to lead the i chase for Villa two years ago. Al- | though he failed to capture the ban- | dit, he gave the Mexicans an object lesson regarding American soldiery i that they have not {orgotten. He returned to this country last ' ren He | February and was promoted last Sep- | tember to be a major general. When | General Funston died Pershing was | appointed commander of the Depart- | ment of the South, with headquar- | ters at San Antonio. | Pershing is loved by his men and | respected by his subordinates. “The [ host commander in the army,” said a | man who served in Mexico with Capt. Pershing. | Gardeners Urged to Plant Late Crops for Winter Use. It is of the utmost importance this | year to plant vegetables which can be | stored and used after frost has done {its work. The root crops especially | thrive on a light soil, rich in organic matter, but will produce favorable crops on ordinary garden soil. Too many home gardeners are growing the short season and quick- | maturing crops and giving too little | consideration to succession or “follow- | up” crops. While it is true that no | home garden is complete without the | proverbial lettuce, radish, peas and | green onions the present critical food | situation demands that the less per- ishable crops like potatoes, beans, squash, pumpkin and root crops be grown. For late maturity beets of some seasonable variety like Detroit Dark Red or Edmond’s Blood Turnip may be sown from June 15 to July 15 in rows 18 inches apart and one-half to three-fourth inches deep. The crop should be harvested before freezing weather. Light frosts will not injure beets provided the ground is well cov- ered with foliage. Beets should be thinned to stand one inch apart wren they are two to two and one-half inches high. Beets removed by thinning may be used for table greens. Later they may be thinned again to stand four to six inches apart. If the second thinning is done gradually one may have a more or less constant supply of beets during late summer. Carrots are easy to grow and they lend themselves to storing. For win- ter use sow the seeds two weeks ear- lier than for beets. Thin first to stand one inch and later three to four inch- es apart in the row. Judicious and gradual thinning will provide a con- stant supply of tender carrots for the table. Varieties adapted to late plant- ing are Danvers Half Long and Chantenay. Turnips mature quickly. Plant wherever space is available and es- pecially when it is too late to plant other succeeding crops. Turnips are easily grown and readily stored. Plant the late crop from July 15 to August 15 preferably the last week in July. Thin the plants to stand five to six inches apart in the row. White Egg is an excellent variety. Ordinarily parsnips and oyster plant require the entire season to complete their growth. They make the greatest growth, however, in the fall when cool weather arrives. It is possible that parsnips and oyster plant or salsify if planted at this time may mature by fall. Their culture is similar to carrots. In general, the earlier onions are planted the more productive will the crop be. April is therefore the best time for planting. It might be well to plant a small area even now, since they are especially valuable for win- ter use. Even though they should not mature, they will produce young green onions by fall. Keep down weeds in the garden. Weekly cultivations keep the soil loose, friable and aerated and con- serve moisture. Address your gardening problems to J. B. Scherrer, in charge of vege- table gardening cxtension of The Pennsylvania State College school of agriculture and experiment station. Clubhouse for Soldiers Abroad. Have you ever been homesick ? Have you ever been in a foreign land and seized with utter loneliness when vou couldn’t speak the language usea about you and where everyone from your native town seemed a near rela- tive, and where anyone from your own State was immediately a close friend ? To obviate such homesickness among Pennsylvania soldiers in France the ‘Emergency Aid of Penn- sylvania has made an appeal to the residents of Philadelphia and the State of Pennsylvania to contribute $10,000 for the purpose of equipping a clubhouse for Pennsylvania soldiers “somewhere in France,” where they will find home comforts and cheer on their way to and from the firing line. The Young Men’s Christian Asso- ciation is raising a fund to establish such centers in England and France, and the Emergency Aid, composed of prominent women throughout Penn- sylvania, wants to equip one of those centers. The clubhouse will offer a place in which the soldiers may spend {heir time while off duty, write their letters, receive letters and otherwise be made comfortable and relieved from the terrible strain of the front line trenches. Dangers of the battle field are not the only risks that threaten a soldier. His spare time is beset with pitfalls and the Emergency Aid wants to save him as much as possible. Fathers and mothers all over the State are pour- ing in their donations because it is onc of the few things they can do for their soldier sons. Contributions for the fund should be sent to Mrs. Bar- clay H. Warburton, acting chairman, 1428 Walnut street, Philadelphia. —The eagles go to sleep about the time their neighbors in the owl cage are waking up, while the bears in the winter sleep all day and night, too. How Liquid Fire is Used. The Germans have not hesitated to introduce any of the ancient or mod- ern weapons of offense and defense which they thought would be of ad- vantage, regardless of Hague Con- ventions or accepted standards of civ- ilization. Among these is “liquid fire,” a weapon of value principally because of its demoralizing effect up- on those attacked. There have been casualties resulting from liquid fire, but it is the psychological effect that is sought. The apparatus usually consists of a metal tank holding about four gallons of liquid to be burned, a secticn of pipe from this tank to a rubber hose at the other end, in which there is a smaller metal pipe about a yard long fitted with a nozzle and a friction ig- niter, as well as an oil burning wick. There is a valve near the tank and another near the nozzle. Benzol, from coal tar, and crude cil, are used in equal proportions and are carried in the tank under a pressure of up- proximately 20C pounds per square inch, this pressure being maintained by compressed nitrogen, an inert gas having no effect upon the contents of the tank. The tank and accessories are carried by one man, while the noz- zle is carried by a companion when liquid is being burned. Or it may be fixed in position and operated by the same man who carries the tank. In use a cap is drawn from the end of the nozzle and a wick burning ker- osene or similar oil is thereby lighted, since the cap is a friction igniter. The oil is then turned on and is ignited as it leaves the nozzle under great pres- sure. The result is a flame of burn- ing oil about 30 yards long. For two- thirds of this distance the flame is straight, but it then turns up as does any other flame. The flame may be directed against the ground, but care must be taken not to deflect it too sharply as it may strike the ground and turn back toward those operating the device. It is, therefore, not well suited to turning down into a trench. It is claimed by an expert from the American Chemical society that liquid fire is not so effective a weapen now that it is understood by the troops and means for defense have been worked out. It can be readily understood, however, that a number of such devic- es, with the roar of the escaping oil, when used together, gave a means of demoralizing the defenders of a trench, especially at night, and in the beginning was a valuable accessory by raiding parties. Helping the Cause of Better Roads. The general public in Pennsylvania and other States is just beginning to awaken to the importance of Good Roads. Military officials are point- ing out the necessity of good high- ways as a defensive measure, for the speedy mobilization of troops and the rapid shifting of men from point to point. Those in charge of food dis- tribution are emphasizing the vital principle of better methods of com- munication to make the transporta- tion of food more rapid and thorough. In ordinary times better roads en- hance real estate values and increase the efficiency of apparatus for fire protection by making it possible to reach the endangered property more readily and quickly. To educate the motoring public and thereby add impetus to the cause of Good Roads the Atlantic Refining company is conducting a campaign in The Saturday Evening Post suggest- ing to those accustomed to making motor tours in the summer months that they tour Pennsylvania this year. Pennsylvania is the ideal State to tour at this time on account of its many shrines of historic events in the winning of our country’s liberty and such a tour cannot fail to stimulate patriotism. Moreover, patriotic citi- zens will be interested in the State’s practically inexhaustible resources so vitally important at this time. At the same time it will show the tourists what is being done in the way of road building in Pennsylvania, a large part of which this company is interested in. This should stimulate the growth of the Good Roads move- ment in this and other States and re- sult in permanent benefit. An influx of tourists should be felt in every part of the State, and local merchants, garages and hotels will be certain to reap a benefit therefrom. All loyal Pennsylvenians are request- ed to make the tourists welcome and give special attention to those show- ing the “Courtesy Cards” issued by the Atlantic Refining company. Cossacks the Backbone of Russia. “It is significant that the Cossacks of Russia have taken sides with the new democratic government and have announced that they will fight on against the Germans,” remarked Dr. H. A. Herbst, an American who has traveled in Russia extensively, to a Washington “Post” reporter. “For centuries the Cossacks have been loy- al to Russia, not to any particular king or dynasty, and they have always landed on the winning side. The Cos- sacks fought for the Emperor of Ger- many against the Turks and for Tur- key against Moscow, and they had no scruples in siding with Moscow and Crimea against the Poles. : “The Cossacks constitute the most loyal body of soldiers in Russia. In the last revolution in Russia the Cos- sacks sent an ultimatum to the rebels that if they did not discontinue their agitation against the Czar the Cos- sacks would march against them 500,000 strong and annihilate them. This declaration had its effect, and while some few soldiers mutinied, no Cossack was found wanting. The Cossacks are the backbone of Russia. With them standing behind the Gov- ernment and the Entente Allies, there can be no question, in my opinion, of the future of Russia or the continu- ance of Russia in the war until Ger- many is beaten.” “A Young Fan. «Remember this, my son; if you want to make a hit you must strike out for yourself.” “You're mixed in your baseball talk, pa; if you strike out you can’t make a hit.”—Boston Transcript. as——a———— — Subscribe for the “Watchman”. een FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. DAILY THOUGHT A moral, sensible and well bred man Will not affront me, and no other can. —Cowper. Time was when a ‘‘simple white frock” was the correct and almost the only possible summer wear for a woman, but, judging from the New York stores and the dresses one sees on Fifth avenue these days, the more decorative the white dress and the further removed from simplicity it is the better. The lines, it is true, must be simple, but the fabrics? Oh, no! They must be of the most expensive; georgette trimmed with delicate hand embroidery, heavy real laces or intri- cate designs in beading; the finest of fine handkerchief linens all tucked by hand in iittle groups of French tucks, alternating with exquisitely wrought veining and drawn thread work; oth- er linens trimmed with English cut work or the heavier Italian rattocelli and on everything you see filet, and then more and more filet, insertions, edgings and enormous collars. Even the tailored suits have great collars of real lace and some have vests composed of colored linens with insertions of lace. One very pretty collar, vest and cuffs, worn with a blue taffeta suit, was entirely composed of wee fairy-like frills and ruffles of nar- row valenciennes; it was inexpressi- bly dainty and feminine in spite of the tailored lines on which the waistcoat was built. Another thing which strikes the cas- ual shopper’s eye in New York these days is the extraordinary preponder- ance of all-white hats, many being en- tirely built and trimmed with a very soft, shimmery satin, not at all like the usual paper fabric which is so generally used in the cheaper type of white satin hat. All the hats, how- ever, no matter what their shape, size or material, have one feature in com- mou—they all have raggedy edge! In some this effect is obtained by the straw itself, being apparently scal- loped, in others it comes from a pro- truding border of spiky feathers such as burnt goose or peacock; more have a finish or soft fibers of ostrich, while quite a number have a flat close wreath of some sort of small flowers, such as daisies, laid right round the edge with about a third of the petals jutting out beyond the straw. A very great number are bordered with a transparent material, either a couple of rows of horsehair or a drooping piece of georgette, chiffon or malines, falling about an inch or maybe two over the forehead. But however the effect is obtained, it is really very be- coming to the majority of people. One change in the fashion for which we may be thankful is the slightly greater length of the skirts. It is no longer in good style, as it was never in good taste, to have your dresses much nearer your knees than your ankles; in fact, quite a number of the very best stores are showing skirts which merely clear the instep, a length which is both sensible and modest. Of course, sport skirts are still short, but even they are no longer like kilts, but content themselves by stop- ping at the ankles or a verv little above, though they make up for that unwonted demureness by being extra startling in color and design, many showing the wierdest possible Chinese colors and patterns; one was actually adorned (?) with dragons in green purple, yellow and brick red on a sand-colored background! Naturally, with a separate skirt one needs a separate waist, whether it be one of the old style that ends at the belt or one of the smock or peplum variety, and the stores are showing a perfect riot of types to suit every fig- ure and taste. For sport wear the Russian blouse or the slipover smock are still the most general, but there are also very charming and woman- like shirt waists of handkerchief lin- en, heavy Jap silk, or wash satin, gen- erally made with convertible collars, though there is an ever increasing ten- dency to revert to the high neck and stock collar often accompanied by a jabot. That same appendage is also to be found on many of the low-neck- ed waists, but the trimmer, more man- nish styles are considered in better taste for sport wear. For the dressier blouses there can be no doubt that georgette is the most attractive and becoming fabric, though crepe de chine runs it a close second; but whatever the material, there is one essential, if you would be in the fashion this year, and that is that you have it elaborately trimmed with lace. Of course, lace is both ex- pensive and rare this season, but fash- ion does not consider such trifling ob- stacles as that, so we are called on to be frilled and flounced, inserted and edged with lace of some kind or another. Filet is the most popular, but Irish crochet is the more chic; they are both frightfully dear, but we are offered this consolation that Malines, point, duchesse or even the more reascnable valenciennes will do in case of necessi- ty. One of these new lacy, frilly waists was made of white georgette, the fronts being all perpendicular groups of French tucks, and the edge where it fastened trimmed with a nar- row border of very fine filet. The col- lar was high, a turnover style trim- med with a filet insertion, and from it there fell a cascaded jabot edged with the lace. All this, however, is more or less commonplace, but the sleeves were the thing! They were of the full bishop variety, gathered into a cuff of the filet, but-——and here is the novel point—they were slit almost up to the elbow at the outside of the arm, and each side of the opening was fin- ished with a rather full ruffle of the filet. Anotrer waist showed sleeves in which a Lroad band of baby Irish was inserted from the very top of the arm right dewn to the wrist; in fact, the insertion started almost under the lobe of the ear, because it ran down the high choker collar, over the shoul- der, and then down the arm. The ef- fact was very startling, for the pat- tern was very open and the trimming almost three inches wide, but it was undoubtedly smart. — Philadelphia Ledger.