UE Bellefonte, Pa., April 15, 1898. WHEN MOTHER DIED. ‘We folded tenderly those quiet hands When mother died, And softly smoothed the silken, silvery bands On either side, And as so often she her vigils kept We now sat watching while our mother slept That eventide. We rained caresses on that placid brow When mother died And kissed the lips that never until now Our own denied. We talked of patience and of all her care And grew regretful as our own small share Shrank down beside. We idly moaned, “Were she but back again Our hearth beside How much unhappiness, how much of pain. We'd scatter wide !” “How lovingly I” Ah, me, that it is ever so! How gleam our jewels as we watch them go : Adown the tide! Why speak we not to longing, listening ears So close beside, The love that brokenly, above their biers, We all have eried ? Why to so many must that ery of fate, Come drifting earthward with its “Late, too late! Thou art denied 7” Go, clasp thy mother in thy strong young arms, Dear boy, her pride ! Cast from thy life each folly that alarms That truest guide ! Know that her prayers, her love, thy mother’s faith in thee, Thy glory is, aricher legacy r That aught beside ! — Linnie Drake in Atlanta Journal. MAJOR HASTINGS LETTER. His Visit to Spain.—Madrid.—An Exciting Bull Fight.—The People and the Money Question. Special correspondence to the Warcumax. At Madrid we ‘‘descended,”’ as the French say, at Hotel de Paris, but finding that hostelry excessively dear and not over good, we sought a boarding house where we could enjoy (?) table h’hote and pract- ice our lengua Castellana on innocent, un- suspecting fellow boarders to the manner born. We found one, Calle de Gracia. In no country of the world does one real- ize so fully that good food is supplied by the Deity and cooked by the devil, as in Spain! Itis scandalous how much good food is spoiled in the cooking ! The turkey whose physical condition has been so much commented upon and whose ownership has been attributed to Job, was there baked, stewed, broiled, fried in olive oil of suspected authenticity—butter is an unknown quantity ; tomato omelettes gar- nished with feathers ; boiled bacalao (cod- fish) with whiskers on ; and a new dish, rice half boiled (so that it would crunch under your teeth like pop-corn), with poached eggs of venerable antiquity. Spain, from Barcelona to Gibraltar, is one continuous smell of burnt. rancid oil. We did not, fortunately, need to stay long, or our fate would have been to be- come as lean and lantern-jawed as the Kuight of the Sorrowful Figure, Don Qui- jote de la Mancha! And at table d’hote they were so polite! To the servants: ““‘Hagame Usted el favor de pasarme el baca- lao?’ (Kindly do me the favor to pass me the cod-fish. ) But as compensation their wines were excellent, and the first evening we treated all hands to Val de Penas. A Spaniard ordered in reciprocation brandy a blend which would strangle an alligator. We We thought it was an attempt to poison us Cubaphobes. When the ice is broken the Spaniards are gay as children, naive and charming. They served up the Cuban question hot- ter than the takle d’hote. The gist of their argument was: For the last fifty years Spaniards have resisted tke autonomy of Cuba. Now that we have conceded autonomy (principally to concili- ate the United States) we close all doors looking to secession, to independent self- governmert. We maintain that the An- tilles are not colonies but provinces of Spain like the rest of the Peninsula. One example of England giving autono- my to a colony is no precedent for Spain. We want our colonies to be integral parts of the mother country. We cannot and will not give them up after having sacri- ficed so many lives and spent so many mil- lions. And a war between United States and Spain? Would there be any profit to the United States? Even after the loss of thousands of good men and mountains of dollars, what use would it be to the Ameri- cans. Of course they can take Cuba, but only after it would be devastatedl—a smok- ing mass of ruins, And Spain would con- tinue to wage war and never make peace ! Would the Americans undertake to cap- ture Madrid ? Would they repeat the folly of Napoleon I? But the United States are twelve days from Spain, for transport ships, and even if they did succeed in landing troops in Spain, very few of her soldiers would ever leave its soil. Spain has her alienable rights, and she purposes to remain mistress of her own house. A nation as proud, as generous, as heroic will never give up the struggle. Other countries do not know us and we suffer through the ignorance and prejudices which have obtained abroad, where we are judged only by our estudinantinas, our bull fights, and our pretty manolas. From the Cuban question to hull-fight- ing is a big jump, but the tonrist student cften has to make a bigger. It has been said that the public taste for bull-fighting is dying out in Spain. I be- lieve the opposite to be the fact! Among the first things I read in Madrid was an ar- ticle about a project to bring an enormous- ly large and powerful elephant from the Zoological Garden at Amsterdam, to Mad- rid, and pit him against a tiger, a lion, a a white bear, and against five bulls. The town was covered with flaming pos- ters of the approaching corrida—six bulls from the famous pasturages of the lineal descendant of Columbus (our Chris.) I know of no more magnificent spectacle than a bull fight. As to its morality, or its influence on a nation of amateurs at this sport—that for the moment I will not dis- cass. Those who believe that the sport is dy- ing out should see such crowds as Renny- son and I beheld streaming from la Puerta del Sol, filling the wide avenue, Calle Alcala and finding place in the circus with its room for twelve thousand spectators. Everybody who can hire a wagon or a mule drives or rides at the greatest speed of which his animal is capable, in clouds of dust amid a hubbub of yelling. The driver is seated on the shafts, his legs dangling among the mules’, which he can conveniently whip ; and in the carry- all are as many boys and girls as can be seated, or hang on by their eyelids, chat- then he runs round the corridor head up, tering like magpies. It’s a country circus and a Fourth of July multiplied by a thousand. The mules and donkeys are decorated with all sorts of ribbons, fringes, tassels and streamers. The day of the corrida is a holiday for everybody. A peasant and his wife astride on mule- back—he carrying his gun slung on the shoulder—are coming in from the country ; others are on tiny little don- keys, the rider’s feet almost scraping the ground, like the pictures one sees in the il- lustrated Bibles of locomotion in Palestine; long wagous like hayricks, to which are harnessed six gaily and festively decorated mules ; there are hundreds of fine brongh- ams and carriages, and such is the crush for seats that to be sure of them, we took our tickets in advance. Every ticket is numbered and every seat is “‘reserved’’; there are six great doors, and the people take their places without confusion. When we arrived the arena was full of people who had been looking at the bulls in the toril. A detachment of soldiers enters the arena and executing a half-pivot swing sweeps the crowd out. The bulls are suggestively bellowing : acquaintances are calling to each other across the arena, which is large enough for a regiment of cavalry to manceuvre in ; la- dies are plying their fans, making a rust- ling, sibilant sound like ten thousand but- terflies ; students in groups are shouting their college songs. One of their number asks a dignified old gentleman, just arriving, what time it is? He gives the hour, and they shout in cho- rus ‘Gracias,’ nearly startling the old fel- low out of his wits, and everybody laughs —except the old gentleman. A brass band discourses excellent music ; hawkers throw oranges to purchasers in every direction and deftly catch in their hats the cuartos thrown in payment. An orange goes astray, knocks off a man’s silk hat ; there is a grand general laugh, but the hatless one is furious. The audience commences to pound with their canes; the students sing ‘‘Time’s u 2 : The alcade (mayor) who presides takes his chair in the box of the Ayuntamiento (City Councils) beside the Royal Box; a lady faints and instantly the twelve thou- sand people are on their feet, standing on the benches. A fellow with a speaking trumpet which makes a noise like a clap of thunder calls to a friend on the opposite side. Excitement runs high, the minute approaches, the noise is immense—a sullen roar—twelve thousand voices mingled. The music ceases: at a trumpet sound, four mounted armed guards enter the are- na and slowly ride round it inspecting if all is right, every barrier closed, the ground in perfect condition. Twelve thousand spectators look at the alcade’s box—the silence is absolute. The band strikes up ; the gate under the Royal Box opens and the caudrilla, all the toreros in gala costumes enter in procession. They are greeted by an immense explo- sion of applause, First came the primas spadas (swordsmen) dressed like Figaro, in the ‘‘Barber of Seville,” followed by banderilleros, capeadores, picadores and chulos. It would much exceed my limits to describe their costumes ; every color and material, satin, silk, velvet, laces, fringes, ribbons, all increasing the harmonious ef- fect. I can imagine nothing more olympian than their march around the arena. It was a blend of a military review, a band of masqueraders and cow-boys. They march with military precision, stop before the mayor's box and salute. The alcade throws down the key to the bull-stalls (toril) and all go out of the ring. except the picadores mounted and armed with long lances, and some capeadores, with their red and yellow capes. All eyes are fixed on the gate where the bull will enter —the silence is death-like—the bulls bel- low, the blindfolded horses tremble : the picadores show some anxiety and settle themselves more firmly in their saddles and poise their lances ; the trumpet sounds the gate opens, an enormous bull, head and tail erect, rushes into the arena, and twelve thousand throats simply yell. My friend Rennyson, who had never seen a bull-fight, turned pale. I confess shivers chased each other up and down my back. The bull rushed like an ava- lanche at the first picador, who stuck his lance in its neck but did not stop it; the bull struck the horse amidships, lifted him and the picador hedily from the ground ; tossed them lightly from his horns against the barrier, then rushed at the sec- ond horse and the third with almost identi- cal results. The three horses were killed in less than a minute. Then the bull ran out to the middle of the arena, horns and nose covered with blood, snorting, pawing and looking at the people as if tosay ‘‘Any- thing more I can do for you ?”’ Everybody howled like a band of de- mons. The chulos (servants) ran and helped up the wounded picadores, took the saddles and bridles off the dead horses ; and to save the picadores who are struggling to free themselves from the poor animals, the ca- peadores run round the bull flaunting their red flags in his face, provoking and taunt- ing ; he runs after them in a whirlwind of dust, butts his head, in his fury, against the barrier ; paws. bellows, again attacks the dead or dying horses, tries to fly over the barrier, and runs about, frothing mad round the ring. In the meantime other mounted picadores have posted themselves at intervals, and when the bull perceives them he rushes at them frothing with fury. The picador jabs his lance into his shoul- der and succeeds in holding him at bay. The bull leaves him and attacks the next horseman. Thunders of applause reward the pica- dor’s successful resistance. The poor dis- embowelled horses were disgusting to see. At a trumpet call all the picadores gallop out of the ring and chulos cover pools of blood with sand. Now comes the poetry of bull-fighting, if I may be allowed so to explain myself. I mean the banderilleros. Their duty is to stick an arrow about eighteen inches long and ribbon-decorated, having a barbed point, in each side of the bull’s neck. To do this trick gracefully he posts himself about twenty paces in front of the foro and then by gesticulating with his arms, pro- vokes the animal, who rushes at him ; the banderillero with lightning swiftness fastens an arrow in each side of his neck, and springs aside out of danger with the nim- bleness of a panther. Should his foouv slip, or he miscalculate the distance or hesitate, he would be speared like a fish. The bull bellows with pain, snorts and jumps, pursuing his tormentors who, running for their lives, clear the bar- rier and are safe. Another man with bdan- derillas enters the ring, plants two more arrows, and after him a third man does the same ; the bull pursuing jumps the barrier after his tormenters, and bellowing, scream- ing horribly is in the corridor pounded with canes by the front seat spectators ; looking at the crowd defiantly aud is at last chased again into the arena. All the spectators stand up and wildly gesticulating yell like madmen. The ban- derilleros and capeadores renew the attack ; one twists his tail, another blinds him by throwing his capa over his horns, a third using his lance as a spring pole jumps over the bull’s back, then throws his lance at the animals feet, in which it becomes en- tangled, and the bull snaps it like a pipe stem as he runs. All this was done with the grace of a dancing master, with the rapidity of a sleight-of-hand performer, while the people enjoyed, laughed and ap- plauded. The foro now at white heat of exasperation is considered ‘‘ripe for slaugh- ter.”? Now comes the solemn part of this bar- barous spectacle. The trumpet sounds and the prima spada (swordsman) enters the arena, having in the one hand the spada, in the other a red flag attached to a stick, presents himself before the mayor’s box, takes off his cap and makes the Alcade a speech in which he assures him of his homage and determina- tion to kill the bull or die in the attempt. Tossing his cap in the air he advances resolutely towards the bull. Now is the struggle! a young man of perhaps twenty five, dressed like a dancing master, silk stockings and slippers, alone, with no de- fence but a small, thin sword, against the terrible brute with horns sharp as poign- ards, exasperated with pain, blinded by wrath, looking hideous, frightfully bloody. But the eyes of the vast, breathless, excit- ed multitude are on him and six thousand pretty hands of the senoritas will applaud him. The bull, head down, swift as an arrow, plunges at him, the spada jumps -aside straight up in the air heels together, and is rewarded by thunderous applause. The audacious forero advances again, taunts the bull with his muleta (red flag) which he flaps around his head and between his horns, lets it fall and picks it up while the monster is charging on him, attacks the ‘quadruped ten times and each instance es- capes certain death by a quick jump aside. The supreme moment has arrived, the audience yells, Que lo mate! Que lo mate! (Kill him!) The espada stops, assumes a tragic pose. shakes his flag, holds his sword horizon- tally ; a stillness of death reigns, the peo- ple appear as so many stones ; the bull rushes ; we see the silver flash of a sword, the poor thing staggers, falls on his knees, belching blood, and from every throat comes an infernal, unearthly yell, followed by deafening plandits and cries of Bueno ! Viva! The tumult is indescribable ; all are standing up gesticulating wildly, cries are universal, it is momentary insanity ; finer. He kept his word better than kings usually do. The Escurial is built in the form of a grid-iron, on which legend says, the good saint was martyred. I have been in the tunnel cut in the glacier at Grindel- wald and it is cosy and warm there com- pared with the sepulchral, hyperborean, pleurisy and catarrh-laden air of the Pan- theon in the Escurial. The kings of Spain are buried there—that is to say, those who left heirs. Alfonzo XII is now buried there ; his son the present king having been born five months after his death, se- pulture there was originally refused. The kings lie buried under such masses of granite that I wonder if they may not have trouble at the resurrection. The guide shows you the room where Philip IT lived as a monk fourteen years, and the three-legged stool on which he sat, the aus- tere man. They say the Escurial has eleven hun- dred and ten windows, and I prefer to ac- cept the statement to testing its accuracy. I was glad to get away without being com- pelled to go to bed with pleurisy or pneu- monia. I saw Sagasta several times, driving in an open carriage. Like Castelar and the late Canovas del Castillo, he has figured in politics from the early ‘‘fifties,’’ and has Held nearly every position under the na- tional government. He has been a con- spirator, a revolutionist, a pronunciamien- tist ; has been exiled and condemned to death as a conspirator, was a refugee in 1856, and again in 1866, in France and England. By profession he is an engineer. He commenced his political career as a General of Militia. He is an impassioned orator and unequalled debater. Now over sev- enty years old, he is reputed to be the hardest-worked man in Spain ; to have a hand of iron in a velvet glove and like President Cleveland did, works all day at his desk, disposed to do everything him- self. His cast of countenance and straggling beard give him a peculiarly Hebraic ap- pearance. I had several conversations, at leisure, with a German banker, who has lived thir- ty years in Madrid, and has a perfect knowledge of Spanish finances and politics. He said the number of Republicans ard Liberals in favor of the autonomy of Cuba is growing every day, but many were ap- prehensive of automomy, regarding it as dangerous, because a means of disintegra- tion and preparation to secession from Spain which has held sway over Cuba since October, 1492. The Spaniards, naturally nervous and impatient, are excited and discouraged in the highest degree at the prolongation of the war, which they never cease to execrate | and regret. 4. (octroi) brought into cities and towns. In addition to these the sale has been de- creed by the Ceries of various national properties and the timber of public lands. One of the governmental incomes is the amount paid in each case for substitutes by the conscripted. This money is paid to the government, and varies from 1,500 to 2,000 pesetas, equalling 300 to 400 dollars for each substisute provided. Sixty thousand substitutes have been bought, bringing in- to the Treasury more than 110,000,000. All this information I could not have procured from Spaniards. They are too patriotic to thus expose the skeleton in the national cupboard. I sincerely pity the Spaniards, who are really excellent, sympathetic people. If they afe now financially as a nation practi- cally at the end of the tether, their ingen- iousness in trying to conceal the true situa- tion, and their generous, valorous, Don Quixotic character, compels your admira- tion. MAJOR W. H. HASTINGS. Horror on the Dyea Trail, Avalanche Cost Perhaps 100 Lives.—Twenty-one Bodies Found.—Many Clung to a Rope and Were Saved and 25 Were Dug Out Alive from the Snow and Ice that Overwhelmed Them.—10,000 Outfits Buried. The horror on the Dyea trail is growing in magnitude hourly. As the work of rescue proceeds it becomes more apparent that many more lives were lost than at first thought possible. It is now believed that between 50 and 100 men and women were killed by the avalanche. Many bodies will never be recovered until the sun melts the tons of snow and ice that now bury them from sight. Two or three thousand men are work- ing in relays of as many as can stand side by side, shovelling away the debris in search of the dead and dying. Twenty- two dead bodies have heen recovered and identified, and twenty-five have heen taken out alive. RAILWAY GANG MISSING. Seventeen employees of the Chilkoot Railway & Tram Company, who went up to the summit on the morning of the slide to work, are missing and it is feared that they are among the lost. It estimated that 10,000 tons of outfits are buried under the snow and ice. There were several smaller slides before the death-dealing avalanche was started. About 2 o’clock in the morning, a small slide occurred which buried several cabins. The alarm spread and many people were endeavoring to work back to Sheep Camp, when the main slide occurred. The snow- storm was blinding and crowds were com- the ladies wave their handkerchiefs, clap their hands; the band strikes up ; the scene is past painting. The spade is again a hero ! The spectators throw him cigars, hats, canes, purses, opera-glasses, anything they have in their hands. Preparations for the next slaughter are begun ; nothing stops the ‘‘sport,’’ not even the death of a torero. In this corrida we saw six bulls and twenty-one horses killed in the space of | two hours and a half. Rennyson was amused, frightened, dis- gusted. Near us were children with their mothers who laughed, applauded, and screamed with delight. Such sights would fill an American lady with supreme dis- gust, but drew the plaudits from the grand Spanish ladies who graced the occasion. ‘Who can analyze the matter psycholog- ically? You are horrified beyond meas- ure with the atrocious brutality of killing the horses ; you are astonished and delight- ed with the beauty of the display, and the wondrous agility, the charming fearlessness of the performers ; you feel as if you would faint when seeing the blood of the disem- boweled horses ; you yell and applaud the marvellous courage, the matchless dex- terity of the spada, who faces and domi- nates an enraged animal who kills a lion, a leopard, or a white bear. Like poets foreros must be born not made if you will pardon such dusty platitude. The primas spadas are the nerves of the na- tion. They are better paid than their Sec- retary of the Treasury, more popular with the people than their Premier, or their greatest orator ; they are idolized by the ladies, bowed to by the society leaders ; frequent the most select circles, are re- ceived at Court ; they have their carriage and splendid horses ; their photographs, | oil paintings and statues are displayed everywhere in the shops, placed on fans, figure on handkerchiefs. They are the true heroes of Spain. i Explain it for me if you can, for to my | mind the enigma is complete. I asked my friend Rennyson what he | thought about it ; ‘‘Don’t let’s talk about it, for I am disgusted, wearied out and feeling as if I wanted to sleep for about ! two weeks.” Such was the expression of | feeling on his part. We made an excursion to the Escurial, that eighth wonder, after the pyramids the greatest pile of marble in the world, out to near the Guadarrama mountains, through the arid. desolate country, destitute of tree house or water, which surrounds Madrid. It isa Leviathan of architecture which ' has exhausted descriptions in untold books and is supposed to contain invaluable, un- explored treasures in Arabic manuseripts. As everybody knows, it was built by Phil- ip IT who at the siege of St. Quentin, obliged to destroy a church called St. Law- rence, vowed to build one muei: larger and As to the negotiations for a commercial treaty, it is my solid opinion that Spain is playing with the United States. They want to finish the war first, and then ac- cord, in a commercial treaty, just what ! they please, resisting the claims of the United States, which, frankly, are exorbi- tant, and, if accorded, would make the isl- and more American than Spanish. The finances of Spain are in a deplorable condition. All recent negotiations abroad, especially in London and Paris, have failed, and also the effort to secure a loan from Rothschild, on the mercury mines o° Almaden, came to nought. Spain has mortgaged everything. Their bonds known as ‘‘Enterior,”’ are quoted at 50 to 60, although bearing the interest at 4 per cent should be, at least, 120. . The only hope of Spain being able to pro- cure more money to pay the arrears due to the troops and prosecute the war in Cuba and the Phillipines, is by means of a popular loan, as was done in November, 1896, when 600 millions of pesetas were subscribed on a loan intended to secure 400 millions, floated at 93 with interest at 6.56 per cent. There are a great many people in Spain possessing enormous fort- unes in bonds and mines, and most of this wealth has been inherited, or made in Cu- ba or South America. The Spaniards are a’ proud, chivalric, brave, patriotic race, with much baughti- ness. A popular loan might again be float- ed if the patriotic blood of the nation were warmed by a crisis in politics or the con- duct of the war. An evidence of their patriotism is the success of the Jmparcial newspaper, which opened a subscription for the relief of the wounded and sick soldiers in Cuba, which now amounts to more than one million and "a half pesetas (300,000 dollars). In 1876 Spain’s credit was so bad that it paid 7.32 per cent, interest on foreign loans guaranteed by receipts from customs and the faith of the nation. Now Spain has borrowed money on, and hypothecated as the guarantee, the prospec- tive revenues to be derived from customs at home, in Cuba and the Phillipines ; revenues from tobacco monopoly ; the tax on the sale of gunpowder, dynamite and other explosives ; and the momoply of the importation, exportation, refining and sale of petroleum. Spain has placed a war tax which varies from 10 to 20 per cent on the following :— Street railways, carriages and vehicles of all kinds ; railroad and steamboat tickets ; merchandise in inland transit ; and ten per cent additional tax on all assessed tax- es, excepting government bonds and public debt. A new tax has been imposed on the exportation of lead and other minerals, ad- vances on prospective sales of revenue stamps, and additional tax on provisions ing down by the aid of a rope when over- taken. The exact location of the slide is given at two and half miles above Sheep Camp and 100 yards above the Oregon Improve- ment Company’s power house. Here an immense gorge rises at a very steep incline into the hills, and it was down this the avalanche came. The telephone office here has been thronged all day and night with people anxious to get some word of friends believed to have been in the disaster. Many people have gone from this city and Dyea to Sheep Camp to aid in the work of rescue. It is believed that when the full returns are in the dead will num- ber nearer one hundred and fifty. The slide covered the trail for several hundred yards, at a depth of fifty feet in many places. It has effectually stopped travel for the present and it will be some time before it can be resumed. A STORY OF A SURVIVOR. J. A. Raines, of Maine, who was fortu- nate enough to be dug out alive, says : *‘All of a sudden I heard a loud report and instantly felt myself going swiftly down the hill. Looking around I saw many others had been caught. some with their feet out and heads buried out of sight. When I struck the bottom I tried to run, but the snow caught me and I was instantly buried beneath thirty feet of snow and rock. I was on the verge of death by suffocation when I was reached by the rescuers. I think the slide occurred about il a. m. I am thankful to be alive to-day. Among my partners were S.T. Burge, Emporia, Kas. ; A. S. Smith, Kansas City ; F. G. Brease, Emporia, Kansas.,, and J. A. Morgan, who went down in the slide. The rest escaped uninjured. ‘‘Many, I presume, were saved by taking hold of a rope for hauling freight up to the summit. Ay this means forty or fifty were pulled out, battered and bruised more or less, but glad to be alive at any discount. I never want to nor expect to experience such an awful half hour again as long as I live.’ © Ulysses IIL. Grandson of the Great Soldier to Become a Cadet In 1885 General Grant addressed a letter to the President of the United States ask- ing that his grandson, Ulysses, be appoint- ed a cadet at West Point. Young Ulysses is now a strapping lad, with military aspi- rations, and last week his father, Colonel Frederick D. Grant, presented the letter to President McKinley. Ulysses lives in New York city. To a New York Herald reporter he said that he did not expect to go to West Point until he was 17. He is now 16, and will put in the intervening time in hard study in the scientific school of Columbia University. FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. Miss Sophronisba Breckinridge, who has just been made a fellow in the department of physical science of the University of Chicago, is the eldest daughter of Colonel W. C. P. Breckinridge. Japanese screens were never so popular. The black ones embroidered in gold are most appropriate for the dining room or library, while for the parlor very hand- some ones of white satin embroidered in colored silk are shown. The frame is a simple black band and the mount of Japa- nese black and gold brocade. Simpler ones with frames made of a thin band of plain wood hinged ready for use, come at very reasonable prices. These can be enameled or stained at home and then mounted with panels of Roman satin, burlap, denim or embroidered linen. Very many guimpes and shirt .waist fronts to wear under slashed bodices, low- necked blouses, are made with inch-wide or even wider tucks across the yoke or gnimpe portion, a fashion decidedly favorable to slender figures, but by no means becoming to those who require nothing to accentuate width. Horizontal trimmings are the most popular, but it is better suited to tall, slender women than to those whose inches from under the arm to the waist are few, and whose breath is considerable. The up-to-date shirtwaist is made up with four little pleats arranged each side of a box pleated centre. The skirt fastened on an invisible flap underneath the box pleat. If the waist is of silk the box pleat is pierced at intervals to display pretty buttons. The wash waist of gingham is really more stylish without the studs, so in that case the box pleat is innocent of button holes. If there is a distinguishing feature of the new spring dress, it is the yoke. This is made of buight silk contrasting with the dress. It is but rounding back and front and is part of the gown. The collar matches the yoke and the appearance is that of a silk waist worn underneath the gown. The first essential in the care of the hands is scrupulous cleanliness. You can never have soft white hands unless you keep them free from dust and grease. For this you need a pure emollient soap, a good nail brush, plenty of warm water and pos- sibly a cream and paste also. The hands should, as a rule, be washed at least three times a day ; sometimes it is necessary to wash them oftener than this. A small piece of pumice stone should he kept on the wash stand to remove discolorations, such as ink spots, gardening stains etc. Use a generous supply of soap. Keep two brushes for the hands one (a soft one) for scrubbing the skin, the other for cleaning the nails. After thoroughly rubbing the hands with the soft brush and plenty of soap and cleaning the nails, rinse in clear water to which a teaspoonful of lemon juice and an equal quantity of prepared toilet oatmeal have been added. Then dry with a soft towel and dust over with oatmeal powder. This method of washing will keep the hands soft and white during the most se- vere weather. Hands which are natually coarse and red or have become so through inattention require further treatment. A thoroughly good emollient cream should be well rub- bed into them night and morning, and it may sometimes be necessary to wear lose kid gloves, with the palms cut out (in or- der to give plenty of ventilation) during the night. The hands should be manicured at least twice a week. If you have not time or cannot afford to visit a good manicure, in- vest in a set of manicure articles and a few good instruments and learn to do your hands yourself. After washing the hands, first gently press back the cuticle around the nails. Instead of the destructive nail cleaners use an orange wood stick, sharpen- ed toa flat point. The enamel of the nails is so delicate that the steel instruments cannot fail to roughen and scrape the un- der surface. The dust is at once attracted by this roughness, and the nail is much more difficult to keep clean than when an orange wood stick is used. Cut the nails in a slightly pointed curve, following the line of the tip of the finger. If you keep the cuticle round the nail pressed down persistently, it will need no especial treatment. Never cut it unless absolutely necessary, and then use very delicately pointed, curved cuticle scissors. If there is any irritation of the cuticle skin, apply a little good toilet cream. To polish the nails use a little nail powder and polish with a chamois skin polisher. In trimming spring hats and bonnets handsome imported violets are used, minus the leaves, which are seldom pretty or natural looking, even on expensive clusters. Another very fashionable mode of decora- tion is to encircle the crown of turban or toque with a thick wreath of flowers ; nas- turtiums in all their red glowing shades being favorite blossoms. This wreath .is then veiled with tulle or other gauzy ma- terial, of white black or golden brown ; re- peating one of the colors of the flowers in the wreath. — The young mother rarely knows exactly the best thing to do when she awakes to find her infant struggling with its first at- tack of croup. Until the physician comes the easiest thing to do is to wring a small sponge or cloth out of hot water and put it directly over the Adam’s apple. The feet can be put in hot mustard water, and if the child can be made to swallow hot water, the revulsion of vomiting will soon put a stop to the spasm of the vocal cords. If a stove is near at hand a pan or shal- low dish can be placed on it and a little turpentine added. Such treatment will often greatly alleviate the severe spasms. The dress of the period is arranged by a skillful dressmaker so as to make a girl short-waisted at the back and long-waisted in front. To this end the skirt is often made to fasten over the waist in the back, while the long blouse front is drawn down in front to extend the line. Satin belts of bias bands folded are drawn low down to a point in front, so as to preserve the con- tour of the old-fashioned ‘‘stomacher’’ noted in old paintings, which are portraits of ladies. The sailor blouse is a favored model for waists. The back width is laid in fine tucks in groups of five inches apart, run- across the body. The front widths have tucks to match.