sons and had helped them in business. He | velvet pall, on which she herself had labor- | Special correspondence to the Warciax. clerical friends in a landau, hold ing high FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. . Bemorrali atc Bellefonte, Pa., May 7, 1897. EE ——————— HOW SHE ACCEPTED HIM. “I longed to kiss you,” he softly said, “As we passed the turnpike, dear.” “Oh, that was the place,” and she tossed her head, “Where my saddle was out of gear. “How much I loved you I longed to tell, When we siopped at the inn, you know.” ‘Oh, that was the place,” and her glances fell, “Where my front wheel wobbled so.” “And then, when we reached the clover farms, Under the old oak tree, I wanted to clasp you, sweet, in my aims, And ask you to marry me.” And the maid, with her rapt gaze turned away, Blushed deep at his words of fire, “To think,” she said, “that I rode that day Ten miles on a punctured tire ! ‘And so with pleasure and real delight I note what your words reveal ; For I've longed some time,” and she clasped him tight, ‘“Toride on a brand-new wheel.” —Tom Masson, in Life. ROBERT THE DEVIL. Of course the general’s will was at the bottom of the affair, but the Eve behind these fig leaves was his second wife. They could not call her a stepmother, for the general’s children were all older than she was. The general was well along in years when she married him, but that was her affair. There hangs his portrait, painted by Copley. Look at it. You do not believe he was 60 when it was painted ? But they say he was. He was more handsome and fascinating at 60 than his sons were at 30. The sec- ond wife was rich—very rich. She brought the greatest quantity of gold and silver plate into the family, all marked with an Arabic cipher, to which she added the Chevalier crest--a terrapin—and the motto, ‘Not to the swift.” No one knew certainly who her people were. She said they were Spanish, and her own appearance supported her asser- tion. There is her portrait, painted at the time of her marriage. Look at it. The general went to Paris, a long journey in those days, to buy those diamonds she wears, and the corbeille. Sometimes, even when there was no one to dine at home but the family, Mistress Chevalier wonld sail into the drawing room, that peafowl’s tail of green embroi- dered velvet spread behind her, her beau- tiful black hair turned back—like that—in a tour, her arms as naked as Venus,’ her point lace falling from her milk white shoulders, and flashing from hair and ears and fingers and flaming in a fire circle about her delicate neck, the diamonds— magnificent stones, worth scores of negroes. Lord! how the daughters would stare at their plates and how the sons would sneer at each other as the general would meet her midway the room, lead her to her seat at the table and kiss the dimple on her shoulder before he left her. They say she loved him passionately— that often, when she thought they were alone and he would pass her chair, she would turn her head upon her lazy cush- ions and hold out a beautiful hand. And he? Would kneel beside her and kiss her pomegranate lips and lovely throat until you would have sworn him 25, and may- be not married at all. They say, too, it was a pretty sight to see her with her little son. A maid going to help her dress one morning heard so much laughter and such baby shrieks that she first peeped in at the door. And, behold, the mistress on her hands and knees, and baby, just from his bath, on her neck ! : She was crawling over the velvet carpet in her linen shift, looking over her shoulder at the little shouting rascal, who tugged at her hair with one hand while he beat her with the branch of jasmine in the other. The black ‘‘da’’ sat and shook like a fus- cous mold of berry jam, while the young mistress crawled about, crushing the yel- low flowers under her soft hands and knees. The door of the inner room sprang open, and in walked the general, his dressing gown with the Persian border wrapped around him. There was shrieking then, I warrant you. Those years were the general’s holiday time. He had earned it, for his first wife was a Guelph, and everbody in Carolina knows what that means. She never got down on her knees except to pray in her life, and she never prayed for anything except money. She put on morning the second year of her marriage and never took it off again. They say she slept in her crape veil. Her children were all born black in the face and crying, and they cried the greater part of their childhood. ’ The boys got ashamed of it after awhile, for their English blood was strong, but the girls never did, and ought to have lived in a lana of droughts. Their tears would have fertilized a desert. As it was, there was rain a-plenty and to spare, and the general kept out of their way, gave them umbrellas and handker- chiefs for birthday gifts, and rejoiced greatly when they cried over him at their weddings for the last time, as he thought. But some of them drowned their husbands in tears and came home again damper than ever. and no one hut the second wife could have stood them. She laughed, ordered more fires, brighter lights, opened the windows, and filled the house with flowers and gay company. She called the eldest Niobe to her. face and spoke of them collectively as the weep- ing willows, for they were tall and liked to be thought willowy. They cried so much over their little half brother that the boy fairly detested them and ran away from the sight of them. He grew. up strong like his father and beautiful like his mother a veritable enfant de amour, but when he was 10 and the general was 70 the fine. handsome old gen- tleman died suddenly. The mistress was but 30, just the age of the youngest stepdaughter, and she sat in -the drawing room when the will was read with such a look on her face that nobody but “a Guelph would have dared to cry. The boy sat by her, the very print and copy of his father, with his little aquiline nose, his bright blue eyes, and his father's own trick of holding up his chin and stif- fening his spine when he desired to see clearly. Now, the general had been goad to his children. Ile had given generously to his always gave marriage portions to his daughters. > : They all came to hear the reading of his will—the women shrouded in crape, with red eyes and noses. The mistress sat in the gown the general had loved her the most in, and everybody stared at it and at her beautiful grief stricken face. The will stated that she should hold the old Chevalier place for her son. If she survived him, it should be hers absolutely, to leave as she pleased. There should be no division of property until the last son was of age. Then came bequests to relatives and servants, and that was all. The stepchildren were furiously angry. One would have thought them on the verge of starvation. ‘‘Wait 11 years!’ they cried. ‘‘Wait until that precious brat is of age? And his mother, with everything in her hands and responsible to no one ? It is not to be endured.’’ And so on, worse and worse. The mistress looked from one to another. “I will not tell you to leave my house,’ she said in a voice hoth sweet. and frozen, ‘“‘or remind you of the home you have al- ways had here. You now have homes of your own and must live in them, as I shall live in mine. As long as you are in my house you must conduct yourself as your father’s children should. Your quarrels and cruel speeches insult his memory.” They took flight like so many black- birds, but the mistress was so good natured they flew back at intervals, and every now and then the boy was permitted to visit them. He went with pockets full of gold and returned a total bankrupt. He gave, and they took, with both hands. About a year after the general’s death the boy came home from a visit to his eld- est brother, Robert, who lived in the city. He had been at home for a day, perhaps, when he was taken ill. His illness puzzled the country physician, and a city colleague was sent for. But the boy died. i His mother, looking at his dead body, spoke out her thought: ‘‘He has been poisoned. His brother has poisoned him.’ And she called the eldest son Cain and Robert the Devil to his dying day. The speech went abroad like a blot of ink in a tumbler of water. Robert never forgave her. There was no proof that the child had been foully dealt with, but the suspicion imbittered his life and followed him to the grave, and so they hated each other fiercely. The Chevalier place was very valuable. Add to that the mistress’ money and plate and jewels, and one can see why every bachelor and many a man who could not marry looked longingly into her beautiful face. But one could tell by the manner of her walking, the inflections of her voice and the immobility of her attitude when she sat that for her there was neither light nor sweetness, nor{hope, nor desire, left in life. And yet she went about as usual, even after her son’s death, steadily, refusing the shroud of crape and having always in the house light, flowers, perfume and pleasant company. ! The stepchildren looked curiously at each other as year after year slid away and said to each other that she would never die. : Many of them died of dropsy and other watery disorders, and their children grew up, but at 90 Mistress Chevalier was still alive—and at 93, although, truth to tell, she had shriveled into a brown mummy and sat all day and ofttimes all night in a great wadded chair with a hood over it, stuffed about with cushions and propped with pillows and hot water bottles. Her body had mummified, but her mind was as clear and as crystal as ice. ; She would look with her deep black eyes at the faithful mulatto slave woman who waited upon her and laugh to herself—a strangely clear laugh to issue from such sunken lips. Sometimes her step-grandchildren would go to see her. When they were children. they were afraid, but as the years passed they got quite used to the sight of the great coffin in one end of the room. “It is a very comfortable bed,’’ Mistress Chevalier would often say. And several times, when she thought the hour had surely come, she made the slave woman and her daughters put it on its trestles and lift her in, and she would lie, waiting for death, gazing with a corpselike smile at the general’s portrait. { At these times the family, in all its branches, rejoiced. “There were only a few of the direct line left. Nearly all had mar- ried. Some were rich, and some were poor, and all were avaricious. At last, one morning the faithful mu- lattress found the mistress dead in her coffin. 9 Once again the children of the house as- sembled in the drawing rooms to hear the reading of a will—the women, as usual, a hypocritical row of veiled pleureuses. All were present except the son of Robert. He had inherited his father’s hatred, and Mistress Chevalier’s death revived the story of her son’s. So the step-grandson staid away from her burial. His portion of the estate should be the place itself. But the will ran, “To my faithful and devoted attendant Cilla, or Lucilla, Chevalier I leave the place and certain sums of money at interest, herein more fully described and specified.” This Lucilla Chevalier was none other than the mulatto slave woman whose papers of freedom, together with those of her daughters and sons, had been declared before the will was opened. Therefore was she a legal heir. A gasp of horror ran round the room. The Chevalier place ! But that was not all If the surviving relatives of the testator should attempu to set aside the conditions of the will in any way, on any grounds, the entire property, real and personal, should go to the dead woman’s physician. Between this man and the Chevaliers there had always been feud and ill favor. . Niobe’s son received a life interest of many thousand dollars, and there were a few legacies here and there amon: the- poorest Guelph-Chevalier tribe. The mistress’ gold and silver plate, dia- monds and other jewels were locked up: in a bank in the city, to be.disposed of, in accordance with sealed instructions locked up with them, a year after the reading of the will. When Robert’s son was told these things, he turned white and then green—a livid, unpleasant shade. The Chevalier place, his patrimony, left toslaves !. And God knew to whom the gold, the silver and the diamonds were left. “The sealed instructions with them would undobtedly reveal further deter- mination on the part of the dead woman to insult and rob the family. Mistress Chevalier’s coffin had been placed in the family vault, between those of her husband and their little son. By her desire the coffins were on one shelf, touching each other, and covered with a "Dr. G. Stanley Hall, president of Clark ‘cline with aflvance of years : ‘robbers, self-consefousness, icusly embroidered the Chevalier coat of arms, with its significant crest and motto. The vault was in the churchyard of old King William, Seaforth, facing the salt marsh and flanked by the ricefields. Thither' went, in his rage, theson of Robert the Devil. By his direction the mistress’ coffin was dragged out, wrapped in the pall and sunk int to do it reverence. By night came Niobe’s son—who, mind- ful of his life interest, felt ashamed of his cousin's poor revenge—dug up the coffin and replaced it, dripping, in the vault. A slave of his let slip the thing to a fel- low belonging to Robert. Again the vault was opened, the casket was dragged out by slaves, and in the flare of pine knots was delivered to the marsh— this time in a spot where the salt tides rose daily and flooded the place. Then the avenger of disappointment and family dishonor met his cousin in the city street and triumphed over him. ‘‘No easy matter, either,”’ he concluded, ‘‘for the old mummy case was damnably heavy. Find it again, if you can.”’ He passed sneeringly. Niobe’s son let the marsh and bided his time. : When the year had expired, the various heads of the tribe met, as if by appoint- ment, in the private office of the president of the bank. But each one, as he entered, looked haughtily and inquiringly at the others. At midday the large and ponderous strong box was brought into the office and the key inserted in its intricate lock. The men and women crowded about the table, squeezing and jostling each other, the women shoving aside their crape veils to see better. For 50 years and more no one had laid eyes ‘on the once famous Chevalier dia- monds. The box lid was thrown back—all the necks were craned. The men’s fingers itched for the gold and silver, the women’s for the precious stones. The box was empty. - Empty—save for a folded square of paper, sealed and stamped with an Arabic cipher. “Shall T open it ?’’ inquired the presi- dent of the bank, looking from one be- wondered face to another. “If you please,’’ answered Niobe’s son. “Is there no address ?”’ ‘None whatever.’’ Broken open, the letter ran : My Dear RoerT—Sixty years ago I wronged your father. To-day I repair the wrong as far as am able. lintended leaving my plate and jewels in this box for you, but ['prefer to give them to you with my own hands. Come and take them from me. Your affectionate grandmother. a JUANA DE RILEAS-CHEVALIER. A card with a mourning border dropped from the letter to the table. Robert picked it up mechanically and read : ‘Mistress Geoffrey Robert Chev- alier. = At home. The Chevalier vault, King William, Seaforth.’’ “God!” he ejaculated, staring at. the bit of glazed pasteboard and then at Niobe’s son. Then he seized his iat, pushed his wife aside and rushed from the bank. ] From the city to Seaforth station, St. Peter’s parish, from the station to the churchyard, from the churchyard to the marsh. The tide was up. For hours he sat looking at the slowly receding water. Niobe’s son touched him on the shoul- der. “Fool,” he asked politely, ‘‘where” did you bury her 2”? “‘There,”” said Robert doggedly, point- ing ahead of him. The marsh was drying, with sucking sounds, under the sun. A slave near by murmured to himself. : They caught one word, then waded to the spot and dug, sank a spade, a log of wood and several other heavier things and watched the quicksand suck them out of sight. Then they scrambled to the marsh bank and went each his separate way.—Claude M. Girardeau in Lippincott’s Magazine. keep its secret What People Are Afraid of. Thunder and Lightning Rank all Other Causes in a Given Number of Cases. : University, has made a scientific study of | fears, and gives the following tabulated 6,- 456 fears described: by:1,707 persons : It would appear that thunder storms are feared by most persons ; that reptiles fol- low, with strangers and darkness as close seconds, ‘while fire, death, domestic ani- mals; disease, wild animals, water, ghosts, insects, rats and mice, robbers, high winds, dream fears, cats and dogs, cyclones, soli- tude, drowning, birds, represent decreasing degrees of fearfulness. Altogether a list of 298 classes of objects feared was made up. The order quoted is not quite ‘the same in different localities. In Cambridge alone the fear of thunder and lightning does not lead. In St. Paul sixty- seven fear cyclones, and only eight the end of the world, which has sixty-two victims in Trenton, where also forty-six fear being buried alive. The St. Paul returns show an average of 4.86 fears for each person, those from Trenton 3.66, while the Cambridge, Mass., boys report 2.28 each. Dr. Hall gives this to indicate more interest in the work in St. Paul than in ‘Cambridge and objective realism ; their quality is more primitive and they have less variety. Here, however, we nreet with fears of train rob- bers, having to sleep on the porch, and starvation. So far as Dr. Hall’s investigations go it is noticeable that boys acknowledge to a great many less fears than girls. Forty- four girls fear the sight of blood as against fourteen boys. Two hundred and thirty boys fear thunder and lightning as against one hundred and fifty-five girls. In regard { to water, height and shyness, boys are the more fearful. The following classes of fears show de- Meteors, clouds, blood, end of the world, being kid- napped, fairies, loss of orientation, shyness of strangers, while the following seem to increase : Thunder and lightning, reptiles, machinery. The number of persons who felt an im- pulse to throw themselves from high places was astonishing. Here is an example : *‘Girl, aged thirteen, at the top of a high building, was irresistably compelled to squeeze hetween the bars of a railing to see if one could fall to the pavment ; is sure she would have landed there if she had not been held, and describes it as an out- side power forcing her against her will, as very terrible and conquering her control.’ A boy, aged 16, says: “The horror of hell is you are always falling.” ' ——Bishop Bowman (Methodist,) now 80 years old, has bought a home in Evans- ton, IIL, in which he will spend the re- mainder of his days. e edge of the marsh, with not a stone | FROM ATHENS TO JERUSALEM. I have just returned from a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, to the tomb of our Saviour. One of the dreams of my life has been realized. I had long promised myself a trip to the Holy Land where “milk and honey flow” and I write about it while my impressions are still vivid. During the “fifteen days I was in Jeru- salem we received comparatively no news, the telegrams were meagre and filtered through the government censure, to suit their purposes. Thr newspapers were sup- pressed by the Turkish government. On reading the back numbers of the newspapers I am astonished and’ gratified to learn, that the combined powers are no further advanced in their grotesque at- tempts at repression of the Cretan revolt and the war-like preparations of Greece, than they were three weeks ago. But let me take up the thread of my story where I cut it, my letter from Athens mailed you March 11th. The Catholic priests with whom I had been traveling having applied to their per- sonal conductor tosecure them an audience with King George, of Greece, he assured | them it was an impossibility. They then applied to the American Minister, Mr. Alexander, who, it appears, enjoys but lit- tle favor at Court and consequently declin- ed to make the request. The American Consul Mr. Horton, who, be it said en passant, was a newspaper re- porter at Chicago before becoming Consul, had gone to the front at Larissa, (Thessa- ly), with" the correspondent of the New York Herald. My companions were a lot of stubble bearded priests, several of the most’ intelligent and least dissipated of whom came to me, a veteran traveler and linguist as they flatteringly entitled me, to ask me to try to secure a shake hands with King Yorgo, as the Greeks call him. I undertook it and went at the task with the vim, vigor and determination to succeed which my friends know I possess. It was not so difficult as I thought it would be. As a starting point I knew that the pro- prietor of hotel Grande Bretagne had been in the service of King George of Greece, (not Grease by natural induction) first as dishwasher when a hoy, later as Chef, when he had mastered the intricacies of a Brillat Savarinian cuisine, The ex-chef, a dis- tinction of which he is proud, introduced me to a patriarchal patriot, one of the leaders of the Hetairie National, who con- sented to undertake to secure us the au- dience, and forthwith we proceeded to the King’s palace, within a stone’s throw of the hotel. ” The Major Domo of the palace, re- ceived me with voluble affability, pro- testing that the King was excessively busy, wrestling with and deciding problems the solution of which meant, perhaps, the life or death of Greece, ete. He consented, however, to lay our cards and our request before the King. A few hours after I was notified that the audi- ence was fixed for the next morning at eleven and that the function should not last more than a quarter of an hour. Preceded by the Major Domo we filed in. The strong intellectual faces of the priests in wood-choppers’ beards, dressed some in sack coats, some in cut-away coats were in ludicrous contrast to the solemnity of the occasion, the King in uniform, and the beautiful tinselry and decorations of the reception room. The Duke of Sparta, the Crown Prince : stood beside King Yorgo. I had to measure up to the occasion, for the priests had made me their spokesman. In a few sentences, in French, I told the King that we as American citizens admir- ed and applauded the pat.iotic action of the heroic Nation of which he was the dig- nified Sovereign. That we believed the people of all christian nations justified and applauded Greece for arming for the de- fense of her sons in Crete, and condemned the actions of the intriguing combined powers who place might above right. We exchanged a few words with the King and the Diadoque and filed out de- lighted with our Kingly, cordial reception. King George is tall and fair with blue eyes and regular features. He reminds me of my friend Hon. George S. Graham, of Philadelphia. He is, as you know, the son of the King of Denmark, has been king of Greece since 1863. He married the Queen, who was Archduchess Olga of Rus- | sia when she was only sixteen years old and he only twenty. The future King of Greece bears the proud title of Duke of Sparta. He was educated at Heidelberg and Berlin. He is married tothe third daughter of Empress Frederick. mother of the Emperor of Ger- many, William II, the poet, artist, orator (?) The second son, Prince George, is the hero of the hour owing to his recent actions in Crete, where he commands the torpedo fleet. He it was who saved the present Emperor of Russia's life by warding off the sword of a Japanese fanatic when the two were traveling in the East, several years ago, and he can claim to be his imperial cousin's most intimate friend. (On dit that the Emperor of Russia has still an open wound from this attack, that the ex- cessively dangerous operation of trepanning may yet be necessary, and, that he fre- quently suffers from epileptic attacks. ) Prince Nicholas, the third son is a cap- tain with his command at Larissa, Thes- saly, where the Crown Prince is in supreme command. The evening after the reception, my friends among the priests insisted on giving me a farewell banquet, ‘for we separated here, they going to Constantinople, I to Palestine. . The next morning escorted by an able- bodied katzen-jammer and three of my the American flag flying at the end of a sugarcane stalk, I boarded the Russian steamer Tchihatchoff at Piraeus for Alex- andria, Egypt. : Through the crowded streets of Athens and Piraeus we drew the cheess of the populace by ‘our cries of Zito Creta ! Zito Grecia ! They took off their hats, cheered the American flag and good-humoredly made room for our carriage. Perhaps they nebu- lously believed America had espoused their cause, had intervened in their favor ! The port of Piraeus was deserted. Where ride at anchor in peaceful, commercial times perhaps a thousand ships and barks, now ther€ were only half a dozen. This is grim war’s first effect, the ricochet of the threatened blockade. The Tchihatchoff had aboard two hun- dred and sixty pilgrims to Mecca embark- ed at Odessa and Constantinople. They slept on the deck under the silver rays of pale Cynthia, in picturesque, phauton-like confusion. Most, of the pilgrims were Rus- sians who, so the captain said, had travers- ed on foot a good part of Russia and came on the ship sick and exhausted from fatigue and exposure in the extreme cold of that climate in March. Here they were by con- trast boiling in a semi tropical sun. These third class passengers offered the most varied and curious of spectacles. . The Russian pilgrims were dressed in their typical heavy caps, their greasy hair falling to the shoulders, enveloped in a long sheep-skin coat, se Brianoliniana in my letters from Russia, disgustingly dirty, their legs and feet swathed in cloths or lost in immense hoots, dripping with grease or sea-water. The women wearing high coarse boots and greasy black handkerchiefs around the head were, if anything, less pre- possessing than the men. With their pale, ash-colored faces and their sombre, slip- pery, greasy clothing they appeared as a mockery, an insult to the bright oriental sun. Nothing could produce a more striking, unpleasant contrast. : As if to accentuate this glaring contrast there were several fine types of Arabs, Ma- jestic Turks and effeminate Syrians wear-' ing the crimson fez, or white’ turbans, red turbans, vari-colored turbans and broad, red helts, elegant in the aesthetic beauty of their brilliant colored dress and their fine intelligent faces. ee ~ To them the Moscovites were as ‘dumb, driven cattle in the comparison; A first class passenger, a Turkish Colonel, as if disdaining the common herd who pray- ed on deck, spreads his prayer carpet on a bench on deck, takes off his shoes, and there on his knees reads his Koran, backwards, says his prayers, with many genuflexions and signs of the cross, his face turned to- ward Mecca. At certain hours, (Mohammedans pray five times a day) Turks, Russians, Boukar- lis, Tartars all went out together on the prow, each one taking off his shoes, spreads a handkerchief, or a mat, or a magnificent oriental carpet and then in perfect cadence they smite their breasts, make:-the:sign of the cross, standing, bend the body forward as low as possible and then always as if in military cadence, one, two, three, they fall on their knees and recommence the series of prostrations, touching the forehead on. the deck. Not an audible prayer. Several of the pilgrims wore great tur- bans, which is the certificate of saintly holiness ; the wearer had already made the pilgrimage to Mecca. His calling and election is sure. One of these devout, holy men inquired of me if I were not the ship's doctor! I offered to give him good advice, but no medicine. An Armenian who noticed my interest in watching the Turks saying their prayers said, ‘‘yes they pray five times a day but I'll bet four out of ten of them are murder- ers of Armenians.”’ When this motley crowd, after the babies had been combed and spanked, spread out their food, picnic fashion, on deck, on fine carpets or coverlets, reminding me of the many colored bedspreads which the girls at home used to make at their quilting par- ties, it was diverting to see them eat beans, olives, lettuce and sausage. No knives, .no forks, no wine. Turk does not drink. The Koran prohibits it. Sailing by Crete (Candia) the elements as if in sympathy with the turbulent deni- zens of that bellicose island began to kick up a commotion, and soon under .the influ- ence of a sharp gale we were dancing, roll- ing, pitching so that walking on deck was excessively difficult and dangerous. I am a good sailor and the motion never phased me. The Crete was in sight for seven or eight hours, we sailed along the north side- of it, but too far away to see the belching fire from the cannons of the Christian (?) Powers. After several hours of sea-sickness pro- moting movements, Christians and Mo- hammedans, Russians, Arabs, Syrians were piled on deck in a confused mass of suffer- ing gray and crimson, yelling with fear at every wave we shipped and making con- vulsive efforts to find a dry place on deck. The air was impested with the odor of mutton grease, incense pastilles and other sickening perfumes. Signs of the cross and ejaculations in honor of Allah were mixed and alternated with the pneumogas- tric effort to avoid paying tribute to the sea. All were of one mind. It was a temporary, partial solution of the oriental question. , : Early in the morning of the second day from Piraeus one of the delta of the Nile | T Concluded on page 6. full, deep breathing. —The most satisfactory shape for the skirts of the plainer wash gowns, that are intended to be washed often, is a gored ° front with the side gore’s straight side to - - the bias of the front. and a straight. gath- ered back. These will iron much straight- er. Never pleat the back of a wash gown ; always gather it. —Be sure to have your things in keep- ing ; a note out of tune will spoil an entire costume. With delicate organdies have a posy and tulle-trimmed hat, and white suede gloves. With silk or cloth gowns a - feathered trimmed hat and glace gloves ‘will do ; but topo hegvy accessories will spoil the effect. Straight, buttoned-in cloth “vests, in cream, white, tan, dark blue and English pink are espeoially swagger for wear with the open-front, tailor made suit just at this season, when a shirt waist looks a little coolish. - : —To fill out unsightly hollows on each'side of the collar bone and to develop all the neck muscles, nothing is more effi- cacious than deep breathing, that is, if one goes to work understandingly. Corby Sif the breathing exercises must be head bending movements and side and front sweep arm movements, practiced either outdoors or before an open window. There are four separate exercises for the head. Bend the head sowly, but firmly for- ward, without jerkiness, until the chin nearly touches the neck, then slowly raise the head to its normal position ; repeat these movements 15 or 20 times at least and take long, deep breaths. A deep breath should be held as long as possible and then slowly exhaled, holding the air a few seconds in the throat. Bend the head backwards as far as possible and then raise it to its normal position. Bend the head sideways 10 times, to the right and as many to the left. Roll the head slowly to the right, backward to the left and then forward. For the side sweep arm movements, stand perfectly erect, with the arms at the sides, then lift them up vertically, inflat- ing the’ lungs as the arms ascend. With the arms in vertical position raise up on the tiptoes, and throw the head back, touch- ing at the same time the backs of the hands overhead. As the arms slowly descend exhale from the lungs. - For the front sweep inflate as you bring .your arms to a vertical position, look u and raise on the tiptoes ; keep the elbows straight and touch the thumbs when the arms are raised above thehead. Exhale as the hands are returned to the sides of the thighs. Then alternate the front sweep and the side sweep. For the next movement draw the arms from’ the front horizontally, palms up, until the elbows are as far past the sides as possible, but keep down close to the body. Inflate as the arms are drawn back, exhale as you return to position. Repeat these movements three or four times. The last time when the elbows are back, beat the chest lightly and quickly 15 or 20 times. Repeat these movements several times. Every alternate day the arm sweep ex- ercises should be practiced, lying flat on the back with the knees bent, and remem- ber that the movements must be taken slowly and deliberately, with she breaths as deep and full as possible. Not only is the neck, and all its muscles benefited by these exercises, but one acquires at the same time an erect and' graceful carriage. A word about deep breathing. Not one person in a thousand habitually breathes to his full capacity, and consequently lacks strength: and vigor of body and mind. Enough cannot be said of the. benefits of J If you would prove its benefits, practice it daily, and you will increase the circulation, purify the blood and send it rich and warm to make lips ruby red and to plant roses in the cheeks. No summer outfit is considered complete without at least one white pique frock, though the usual up-to-date wardrobe con- tains three or four of these gowns, a couple made prettily for walking, and a smart one for tennis. A pretty one is a plainly made, snug skirt of the white, coarsely-ribbed pique, with a jaunty little hip coat to match, having wide, pointed reveres and rolling collar of the same, opening broadly over a soft waist of geranium pink organdie built over taffeta of the same shade. It has a deep yoke laid in clusters of fine French tucks, to which is attached the full bod girdled around the waist by a belt of white kid. The bodice that will undoubtedly be very popular during the coming season 1s made of pale pink lawn, with rows of nar- row Valenciennes lace down each side of the closing, writes Isabel A. Mallon, in the May ‘‘Ladies’ Home Journal.”” About the neck is the extremely high white linen collar which stands horizontally. A pecu- liar effect is achieved. hy wearing with this bodice a high cravat of red silk, tied in a flaring bow in front. The belt is also of red silk, fastened under a dull jet buckle.. The sleeves are easy at the shoul- ders, shape in to fit the arms, and have turnback cuffs of white linen, caught with coral links. When the stiff collar is an adjunct to the shirt waist care must be taken not only in choosing &ut in trying one’s cravat, so that not only an artistic, but an individual air shall characterize it. The high collar rolling over is the rival of the new upright one, with the horizontal border one inch wide. All that has been said, sung or written regarding the heterogenous mixture of flowers and shades on the new spring hats was verified on Easter. You need not walk forth in fear and trembling because you have red and purple together on one, hat ; the very millenium of fashion has arrived in that the very fiercest and the softest of colors lie down together ; they do not ‘‘swear’’ at each other or “*kill,*’ each other * they repose in true Biblical fashion of the lamb and lion. You may walk boldly forth with purple and red, and pink and green, and black mixed in with it. You can wear a green straw with black veivet loops and rhine- stone buckles, and red roses and green buckles, and 1ed roses and green leaves (of another shade from the hat) and purple wisteria and yellow wheat ; and you need not reserve this combination, for garden party or noon wedding, but you can, if you elect, wear it with your new, severe, mili- tary gown on a shopping tour or a visit to the slums. : —The latest belt and buckle is a McAl- lister plaid silk, with a bunch of silver thistle, and enameled purple leather, tied with a gold ribbon. -—=Subscribe for the WATCHMAN.