¥ aenm—— 4 Bellefonte, Pa., May 22, 1896. === m= A LITTLE PINK SHOE. Only a little pink baby shoe That is stained and wrinkled and torn, With a tiny hole where the little pink toe Peeped out in the days that are gone. The little pink toe was the “big little pig” That to market so often would go, And over and over the legend was told As I kissed the little pink toe. ““Piggie some more,” the red lips would lisp, And the story agd kiss were given Again and again, so happy were we ‘In motherhood’s foretaste of heaven. But there came a night, with desolate blight, . When death bore my idol away, And no little toe ever peeps from the shoe To be kissed in the sweet old way. But my tears have deluged the little pink shoe And stained it a deeper stain, And I long for the touch that would chill me in death, If it gave me my darling again. So when I am dead lay the little pink shoe Near my heart that is silent and cold, And perhaps up above, in the sunlight of love, I shall kiss the pink toe as of old. —Kate Tennyson Marr, GRAYSON’S BABY. BY JOHN FOX, JUN. The first snow sifted in through the Gap that night, and in a ‘‘shack’’ of one room and a low loft a man was dead, a woman was sick to death, and four children were barely alive ; and nobody even knew. For they were hill people, who sicken, suffer, and sometimes die, like animals, and make no noise. Grayson, the Virgianian, coming down from the woods that morning, saw the big- hearted little doctor outside the door of the shack, walking up and down, with his hands in his pocket. He was whistling softly when Grayson got near, and without stopping, pointed with his thumb within. The oldest boy sat stolidly on the one chair in the room, his little brother was on the floor hard by, and both were hugging a greasy stove. The little girl was with her mother in bed, both almost out of sight under. a heap of quilts.. The baby was in a cradle, with its face uncovered, whether dead or asleep Grayson could not tell. A pine coffin was behind the door. It would not have been possible to add to the dis- order of the room, and the atmosphere made Grayson gasp. He came out looking white. The first man to arrive thereafter took away the eldest boy, a woman picked the baby girl from the bed, and a childless young couple took up the pallid little fel- low on the floor. These were step-children. The baby boy that was left was the wom- an’s own. Nobody came for that, and Grayson went in again and looked at ita long while. So little, so old, a human face he had never seen. The brow was wrinkled as with centuries of pain, and the little drawn mouth looked as though the spirit within had fought its inheritance without a murmur, and would fight on that way to the end. It was the pluck of the face that drew Grayson. “I'll take it,” he said. The doctor was not without his sense of humor even then, but he nodded. “Cradle and all,” he said, gravely. And Grayson put both on one shoulder and walked away. He had lost the power of giving further surprise in that town, and had he met every man he knew, not one of them would have felt at liberty to ask him what he was do- ing. An hour later the doctor found the child in Grayson’s room, and Grayson still looking at it. “Is it going to live, doctor 2’? The doctor shook his head. ‘Doubtful. Look at the color. It’s starved. There's . hothing to do but to watch it and feed it. You can do that. So Grayson watched it, with a fascination of which he was hardly conscious. Never for one instant did its look change—the quiet unyielding endurance that no faith and no philosophy could ever bring him. It was ideal courage, that look, to accept the inevitable, but to fight it just that way. Half the little mountain town was talking next day—that such a tragedy was possible by the public road-side, with relief within sound of the baby’s cry ! The oldest boy _ was least starved. Might made right in an extremity like his, and the boy had taken care of himself. The young couple who had the second lad in charge said they had been wakened at daylight the next morn- ing by some noise in the room. Looking up, they saw the little fellow at the fire- place breaking an egg. had got eggs from the kitchen, and was cooking breakfast. The little girl was mis- chievous and cheery in spite of her bad plight, and nobody knew of the baby ex- cept Grayson and the doctor. Grayson would let nobody elsein. As soon as it ~ was well enough to be peevish and to cry, he took it hack to its mother, who was still abed. A long, dark mountaineer was there, of whom the woman seemed half afraid. He followed Grayson outside. ._ “Say, pordner,” he said, with an un- pleasant smile, ‘‘ye don’t go up to Crack- er’s Neck fer nuthin’, do ye 9” The woman had lived at Cracker’s Neek before she appeared at the Gap, and it did not come to Grayson what the man meant until he was half-way to his room. Then he flushed hot and wheeled back to the cabin, but the mountaineer was gone. ’ ‘‘Tell that fellow he had better keep out of my way,” he said to the woman, who understood, and. wanted to say something, but not knowing how, nodded simply. In a few days the other children went back to the cabin, and day and night Grayson went to see the child, until it was out of danger, and afterwards. It was not long before the women in town complained that the mother was ungrateful. When they sent things to eat to her the servant brought back word that she had called out, ¢ “Set them over thar,” without: so much as thanky.”” One message was that ‘‘she didn’t want no second-hand victuals from nobody’s table.” Somebody suggested sending the family to the poor-house. The mother said ‘‘she’d go out on her ‘crutches and hoe corn fust, and that the people who talked bout sendin, her to the po’house had better save their breath to make pray- ers with.”” One day she was hired to do some washing. The mistress of the house happened not to rise until ten o’clock. Next morning the woman did not appear until that hour. ‘She wasn’t goin’ to work a lick while that woman was a-layin’ in bed,” she said, frankly. And when the lady went down town, she too disappeared. Nor would she, she explained to Grayson, “while that woman was a-struttin’ the streets.’ : After that, one by one, they let her alone, and the woman made not a word of com- plaint. Within a week she was working in the fields, when she should have been back in bed. The result was that the child sickened again. The old look came back He had built a fire, to its face, and Grayson was there night and day. He was having trouble out in Kentucky about this time, and he went to the Blue Grass pretty often. Always, how- ever, he left money with me to see that the child was properly buried if it should die while he was gone ; and once he telegraph- ed to ask how it was. He said he was sometimes afraid to open my letters for fear that he should read that the baby was dead. The child knew Grayson’s voice, his step. It would go to him from its own mother. When it was sickest and lying torpid it would move the instant he step- ped into the room, and, when he spoke, would hold out its thin arms, without opening its eyes, and for hours Grayson would walk the floor with the troubled little baby over his shoulder. I thought several times it would die when on one trip Grayson was away for two weeks. One midnight, indeed, I found the mother moaning, and three female harpies about the cradle. The baby was dying this time, and I ran back for a flask of whiskey. Ten minutes late with the whiskey that night would have been too late. The baby got to know me and my voice during that fort- night, but it was still in danger when Grayson got back, and we went to see it together. It was very weak, and we both leaned over the cradle, from either side, and I saw the pity and affection—yes, hun- gry, half-shamed affection—in Grayson’s face. The child opened its eyes, looked from one to the other, and held out its arms to me. Grayson should have known that the child forgot—that it would forget its own mother. He turned, and his face was a little pale. He gave something to the woman, and not till then did I notice that her soft black eyes never left him while he was in the cabin. The child got well } but Grayson never went to the shack again, and he said nothing when I came in one night and told him that some mountaineer —a long, dark fellow—had taken the wom- an, the children, and the tarnished house- hold goods of the shack back into the moun- tains, “They don’t grieve long,” I said, ‘‘these people.”’ . But long afterwards I saw the woman again along the dusty road that leads into the Gap. She had heard over in the moun- tains that Grayson was dead, and had walk- ed for two days to learn if it was true. I pointed back toward Bee Rock, and told her that he had fallen from the cliff back there. She did not move, nor did her look change. Moreover, she said nothing, and, being in a hurry, I had to ride on. At the foot-bridge over Roaring Fork I looked back. The woman was still there, under the hot mid-day sun, in the dust of the road, motionless.— Harper's Weekly. Imitation Sins. One of the most uncalled for of all the offenses against good morals is the intoler- able profanity ‘common everywhere. On the street the ears are continually shocked by outrageous oaths that mean nothing and have absolutely no excusés. Profanity never adds anything to the life of a conver- satipn. Even when introduced on the stage, as seems to be the habit too fre- quently, it cannot possibly serve any other purpose than to disgust. The English lan- guage is expressive enough to convey all ideas that come to the mind of man with- out resorting to profane, indecent or offen- sive speech of any sort. Shocking as blasphemy is the world is full of men who would hesitate a long time before sanctioning it, yet these same folks will countenance it “by imitating in form what they abhor in reality. The deacon will cuss in his own harmless style, calling on ‘‘Judas Priest’ and he will “dod dang”? and ‘‘gol darn’’ an objectionable thing as emphatically as a more hardened sinner will show his disapproval in terms that imply more even if they mean only the same thing. %* %* * The spirit that actuatesis the same. -The paucity of language and the willing- ness to make up with slang and coarseness is the same. Only one is the wicked reality, while the other is a senseless counterfeit of the bad. Profanity is wholly useless. Then why should anybody cultivate a habit of counterfeiting it ? Why should any man imitate that style of expression which he knows has nothing to commend it and everything to condemn it ? If real sin is wicked, what excuse can be offered for the imitation, which has nothing to explain its existence but following a fashion that is too insufferable to be followed far. * % % Too much is an abomination. We all recognize that, and the world is full of re- formers who try to overcome the gin habit. And while they are doing it they fill them- selves full of acid phosphate, ice cream soda, milk shakes, pop, and a multitude of other abominations. The soft drink habit has come to be as much of an abomination, except in the more serious physical and criminal results, as the drink with the stick in it. We look upon our stomachs, or, at least, we act as if we did, as recep- tacles for an unlimited amount of liquid horribles, and the nian or woman who de- plores the drink habit on the part of the unfortunate who drinks at the haunt of old John Barleycorn marches up to the soda water counter and imitates the tougher sinner with a queer delight. Alcohol is not the only vile ingredient in the drinks that are sold the toper, whether whose nose requires a potion with more red paint in it. Even the man who makes them hardly knows what all has been put into some of the cordials and syrups and flavors and nerve restorers that go into the soda water drinks sold plentifully. * x Look at the spread of the chewing gum habit. Those who kick about the filthi- ness of tobacco get stuck on gum ; and who knows what there is in chewing gum to commend it ? What is there in any bad habit, and what is there in any imitation bad. habit, anyway ? What's the good to be hanged for a lamb when the man who steals the sheep gets no worse than hang- ing, at the most ? What's the use to use counterfeit cuss words if we must cuss at all ? If we must drink why not drink whisky, and kill ourselves and end the habit as soon -as- possible ? If we must chew, why not tdbacco, aud be such a nui- sance as to be tobooed py everybody ? What's the good of being stuners if we get none of the rewards except being classed with the sinners, and deprive ourselves of the forbidden pleasures of sin ? The world needs to be reformed and the place to begin is with the folk who want to be wicked, but who are too timorous to plunge clear in.— Pittsburg Times. “Puck’s” Editor Dead. Henry Cuyler Bunner, editor of Puck died at his home in Nutley, N.J., Mon- day afternoon. His death was caused by consumption. Mr. Bunner had been edit- or of Puck since 1877, having succeeded the first editor of that paper within a few months of the time the publication was be- gun. He was born in Oswego in 1855, it be the soda water toper or the gentleman. Education in Centre County. This is a short review of our county’s education for the years 1893-1896, ending May 1,—since Prof. C. L. Gramley is in of- fice—based upon the annual statistical re- ports of the Sup’t., which he has been so kind a to give into my hands. At first this study was purely for my personal benefit, but although only statistics, it became so interesting: and instructive that I fi- nally concluded that it might be likewise to others should the WATCHMAN see fit to publish it. To all interested in educa- tion, and who should not be, it will speak volumes of information, conditions and du- ties. : First in regard to houses, twenty-nine buildings have been erected and remodeled in the last four years, their number having been increased from 198 to 209 ; the number of school rooms increased from 264 to 275, and the number of good school rooms from 148t0 153. The seating capacity and suita- ble furniture supply are receiving more careful attention. ? SCHOOLS. The whole number of pupils enrolled in- creased from 9,792 to 10,926, (Miles Twp., 381 to 341); number of schools increased from 261 to 273 ; number of graded schools 100 to 110. For the last two years text- books have been supplied free of cost to the district. For the last two years the Bible has been read inall theschools. The num- ber of schools in which the higher branches are taught is also increasing. The - whole number of public examina- tions 105, in which we notice only a slight increase of granting provisional certificates, especially last year, and a decrease in the rejection of Applicants. TEACHERS. The whole number increased from 264 to 276, the men, increasing from 155 to 171, and the women decreasing from 109 to 105. Bellefonte, Philipsburg and Rush town- ship have the most lady teachers. Theaver- age age of both sexes is 27. The employ- ence is on a decrease, and that of teachers of five or fhore years of experience increas- ing. There isalsoan increased employment of those holding professional certificates. Those employed having permanent cer- tificates, from 30 to 37 per year-in number. About 16 State Normal graduates have been employed per year on an average, and are not increasing either, but those not be- ing graduates at State Normals have hap- pily decreased from 47 to 34. The number of employed teachers educated in common schools increased from 68 to 130, According to this the academies and select schools con- ducted at Spring Mills, Rebersburg, Mill- heim, must be doing excellent work, meet- ing the county’s higher educational de- mand, then the spring terms of equal length at our State Normals. The num- ber educated in acad¢mies or seminaries have been averaging tte Teach- ers who are college graduates increased from 10 to 14. Sup’t. Gramley made 1309 visits to schools. Only 10 schools were not visited in four years of which 3 it was impossible to visit, two being snow bound and the third closed. 840 visits by all the direc- tors who are becoming more interested in this their duty. MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. The Sup’t. attended sixteen educational meetings. In 1896 it is estimated that ages of six and sixteen not in ‘séhool, but we are glad to state that this number is on a decrease having been 476 the year before. There are 198 directors and controllers con- stituting school boards, there having been 3 women as members of school boards, but at present none,—South Philipsburg 2, Bellefonte 1. To every reader of the above undisputa- ble statistics, the following facts must be self-evident ; that our county through its energetic superintendent, school di- rectors and voters is progressing as much as present circumstances will allow that through the mercies of the number of buildings, remodeling of buildings, and rooms, and the supply of proper school fur- niture the physical and physiological nec- essities are more complied with for a freer and more normal brain and mental ac- tivity. Something so much emphasized by the most recent investigators of child-mind study on the Continent and in America ; that grading of schools increases in the same proportion as their number, thus af- fording more specialization and hence bet- ter instruction to the individual, that at last the rich and poor have equal educa- tional opportunities by supply of free text- books ; that biblical instruction is much insisted upon, about which there is so much negligence in some counties ; that the standard of education is gradually be- coming higher in examinations and in the employment of those of most experience and better knowledge ; that the superin- tendent and directors are doing more visit- ing than ever was done before ; that edu- cators are seeing the great necessity of at- tending county, state aud national associa- tions ; that -the compulsory school law is after all a very good thing ; that woman suffrage is on a decline in Centre county in regard to electing them as school directors, and finally that the future educational out- look is very hopeful through a non-recogni- tion of political and ecclesiastical bigotry and jealousy. H. ELMER BIERLY, a Rebersburg. SPRAYING TREES.—Last Monday morn- ing Prof. Geo. C. Butz, horticulturist at The Pennsylvania State College, gave an impromptu talk on tree spraying and a practical illustration in the Alexander orchard at McCalmont’s lime kilns. A small though representative body of fruit growers from different parts of the county were there to receive instructions. Prof. Butz talked only on the extermi- nation of the codling moth and oth sect and fungus life that is parasitic on fruit trees. For the destruction of all fungus growth he recommended the Bordeaux mixt- ure as a spray, then to kill insect life he advised the addition of paris green to the mixture. For fungus growth sprays should be used early, about the time the buds are just bursting then followed up with two or three applications later, until the work is thoroughly done and there is no danger that rains have counteracted the effect of the spray. The last application should contain the paris green and should be used just about the time the blossoms begin to fall. Then insect life is most active on fruit trees and there is a greater proba- bility of kiiling it. For shade trees, affected with the scale louse, or mealy bug, Prof. Butz recom- mends the common petroleum and soft soap wash to be applied thoroughly and freely about June 1st, as that is the time when the newly hatched bug leaves its cocoon and hunts the tender parts of the tree to feed. This wash applied any earlier in the season will not avail, as it is impos- sible to penetrate the woolly white blotches under which the young bug lays in the larval state. It is only after the bug is hatched and starts to move about that it can be reached. We hepe to be able to give an extended treatise on spraying in an early issue. Prof. Butz’ talk was exceedingly interess- ing and should have heen heard by many | more than were there. It was solely through kindness and interest in the work that he came down here and the same mo- tive led McCalmont & Co. to go to the trouble of fixing up various kinds of ap- | paratus for spraying, so that our people did not show an appreciation commensurate with such kindness. However some of the most reputable farmers and business men in the county were there, so that while the ment of teachers without previous experi- | there are still 312 children between the | audience was not large it was representa- | tive. | —- oe ieee THE MoOToR-CyCLE.—The combined | management of the great John Robinson | that as a result of140 dives in all hold in | | and Franklin Brothers’ enormous shows combined attended the recent speed con- test of ‘‘horseless carriages,’ at Chicago, and wisely concluded to secure the most thoroughly finished and speedy of the nu- merous new vehicles there tested. Other circus managers were also there, and all bid for the ‘“‘winner.” The well known cour- age and unlimited financial resources of John Robinson and Franklin brothers, to- gether with that resolute determination to at all times secure the best in all branches, prompted these well-known managers to outbid all others and they did secure the most wonderful achievement in science, the the twentieth century—a mechanical con- trivance that can run 60 miles an hour over ordinary country roads. It can cover 100 miles an hour on a speed course, and the cost of running this wonderful ‘‘horse- less carriage’’ 100 miles is but sixty cents. It will be seen daily in the free parade of these great shows, and during the after- noon and evening performances will be put to trial tests of speed on the immense hip- podrome track. No other circus manage- | ment has ever dared to put a fortune in a “feature,” the exhibition of which will be without cost. Of course this is but one of the many features of these combined great | shows, that will be seen daily in the mag- | nificent double parade, which by the way | is more than a mile in length. Bellefonte, | May 27th. eee THE RECEIPTS OF THE DRUMMER Boy OF SHILOH. — On last Friday even- ing at a business meeting of com- pany B. held in the armory a report of the receipts of ‘‘the Drummer Boy of Shiloh’’ was read. It showed that the company made $254 out of the enter- tainment. This amount will be devoted to the benefit of the company in putting it in better shape. The following committee was appointed to decide on the distribu- tion of this money : Sergeants Alexander and Rearick and corporals Samuel Taylor, Rutt and Lose. A new mess tent and also a new cooking stove will be bought in time for camp this year. The subject of buying army cots for the men was discussed and they will probably be bought if they are allowed to be used. OY ren BIG FIRE IN CLEARFIELD COUNTY.—For some days past forest fires have been rag- ing in the vicinity of McGee's Mill’s, Clear- field county, a station on the Pennsylvania and northwestern road, forty-two miles from Bellwood. Sunday evening Altoona was telephoned to for assistance as it was feared the town, as well as the big plant of the Blair Run Lumber company, would be wiped out by the flames. At seven o’clock the fire was gotten under control without doing great damage to the town or lumber plant. McGee's Mills has a population of some 300 or 400 people and so far as known there were no houses burned. The mill of the Blair Run Lumber conipany was not lumber were destroyed. The loss is not known. he ——On Friday afternoon about two o’clock the fire alarm sounded and at once the streets were filled with" people inquir- ing “where is the fire? Upon investiga- tion it was found that the alarm had been sent out out from the home of Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Spigelmyer on Howard street, where the lace curtains had taken fire from a light- ed gas jet. By the time the engines and fire companies arrived some one, with much presence of mind, had thrown the burning curtains and bed clothes out into the street thereby averting what might have been a serious conflagration. a IES er in- Ellis Hall, the manly young son of Conductor John Hall is the latest victim of a bicycle accident. On last Friday even- ing while riding through Milesburg wlth several companions, they were greatly annoyed by a big dog that barked and ran after them as they rode. Ellis was watching the dog and did not notice a cow that was directly in front of him until within a few feet of her and before he realized what had happened the cow kick- ed at the wheel and he went flying down into the dust. He must have fallen with terrific force for his left wrist was broken and he was badly bruised. Dr. Church, of Milesburg, set his wrist and brought him home. As Ellis is fashioned of the stuff that heroes are made of, he is not making much adv over the accident and is getting along as comfortably as could he expected at his father’s home on Thomas street. A Pest of Rabbits. —Equal to that of Australia.—All Attempts to Kill Them Off Have Been Unsuccessful—The Damage in a Single County Last Year is Estimated at $600,- 000.—Result of Nearly 200 Drives. California’s rabbit nuisance is assuming proportions and making progress which most unpleasantly suggest comparison with the actual plague of rabbits that afflicts Australia ; afflicts it in a hopeless degree, according to the latest reports of the var ious colonial governments. California has lately adopted some Australian methods of thinning out the rabbits, and apparently with about the same limited measure of success. In Australia the attempt to ex- every effort is now directed to confining the rabbits to certain areas, or rather to keep- ing them out of certain cultivated regions. Even this entails enormous expense on the ““Motocycle”’—the mode of conveyance in badly damaged, but a number of piles of governments and land owners, is by no means sure, and often is unsuccessful. | It is stated that in one county alone in | California the loss to farmers from rabbits | and hares amounted last year to $600,000. | Many experiments with poison have heen | made, but the farmers have about conclud- led that the only thing to do is occasional- | ly to thin out the rabbits by holding big | round-up hunts or drives. ~The story of | several of these drives recently undertaken | has been told in the Sun. It'is estimated California 356,400 rabbits have been killed. { But the latest reports say there is no ap- | preciable diminution in their numbers. | Some years ago the government of New South Wales offered a reward of £25,000 to any onc who suggested a really efficient | method of getting rid of the rabbits. This | offer stood open for several years, and more { than 2,000 schemes were offered, coming | ' from all parts of the world. Many were | tried, but none was found to be wholly satisfactory and finally the offer was with- | drawn, and the- Australians tried to make | up their minds to the inevitable perman- ence of the pest. Ferrets, stoats, and weasels were imported and bred in thous- ands and they have done good work. Poisons of all sorts were tried with but lit- tle success. Cats were introduced and they also did good service. But the rabbits multiply at such an astounding rate that they have much more than held their own and have spread into new regions, destroy- ing a large proportion of all crops wher- ever they have penetrated. Directly and indirectly South Australia loses fully £500,000 a year from rabbits. The government of Victoria has been work- ing hard since 1880 trying to keep down the plague, and has spent more than £300,- 000 in the work. The amount of money spent by farmers and other land owners is incalculable. One man, owning a large estate, has spent £15,000 in the last few years fighting rabbits. The governments estimates that no less than 37,750,000 acres of land, farmingand grazing, in the colony of Victoria is infested by rabbits. Many schemes have been offered for making use of the rabbits commercially, and thus recouping at least a little of the loss they cause. Many thousands are kill- ed and their skins used, and something of a trade has been built up in in the ship- ment of rabbits to England and elsewhere for food, either canned or frozen. But the world can’t live on rabbit meat, and it would | need to in order to afford to the Australians a profitable way of making use of their rabbits. The skins are largely used for many purposes. One concern in Victoria uses 374,000 rabbit skins every year, and in the last seventeen years about 68,000,000 skins have been exported from Victoria. : There have been intercolonial confer- ences, attended by representatives of the various governments and delegates from the agricultural societies, at which every phase of the question has been considered. The final decision seems to be that exter- mination is impossible, and that the most effectual way of dealing with the evil is in building long fences of rabbit-proof netting to keep the animals out of areas not yet in- fested, to shut them off from food supplies, and also to get them together as much as possible so that they can be raided by means of drives. Some of the fences are hundreds of miles long. One starts at Barringun, on the Queensland border, follows the Main Trunk line from Bourke, and ends at Corowa, ex- tending in an unbroken line for 407 miles. There is another such fence along the en- tire western boundary of New South Wales, 346 miles long. But even this heroic remedy is not unfailing. The fences are liable to break down, especially in times of flood, and particularly where they cross rivers and creeks. It is impossible to keep the fences under complete and constant supervision in order that breaks may be re- paired immediately, and it does not take long for a few thousand rabbits to potr through a break once they find it. It is stated that in many instances hwmndreds of thousands of rabbits have been seen dead or dying on the onter side of the fence, having eaten up all the available food sup- plies, and making vain efforts to leap over the closely woven wire netting. These fences are expensive to build and expensive to maintain. They have to be sunk a considerable depth as well as built up quite high. But after many years of heavy loss and disheartening struggles the Austsalians have come to consider this as the only means of dealing with the pest. He Got the Recipe. A man in Mahanoy city, who couldn’t spare $2 a year for his local paper, sent fifty 2 cent stamps to a down east Yankee to learn how to stop a horse from slobbering. He got the recipe and will probably never forget it. Here it is :* “To stop a horse from slobbering, teach him to spit.” ——Governor Hastings will speak at Gettysburg on Decoration Day. { terminate them has been given up, and | | FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. Now and then capricious fashicn decrees something that is so thoroughly sensible, so altogether comfortable, that it atones for the dozens of other fads that bring with them nothing but an impulse toward mar- tyrdom. The welcome arrival this season is the adjustable collar, and if any one not addicted to shirtwaists should ‘doubt its popularity they have only to inquire at the first store they chance upon and they will at once be told that the demand in white collars is so unprecedented that manufac- turers are filling their orders through prom- ises, and cannot’ possibly supply the sud- den need. To the fastidious eye there seemed at first an incongruity in a plain white collar surmounting any possible color in a waist, and it is not improbable that another season will furnish collars to match and in unlimited quantities ; bus the effect is chic, it is certainly new, and —all the world has adoped it. So we ac- cept it for its unquestioned merits, and conquer the first impression of oddity. An adjustable collar for a shirt waist means | a laundry bill lessened by at least one-half | and: probably two-thirds, since It Threatens to be a Serious Matter Out in California | | eve woman knows that on a warm day note is so certain to give her a dowdy look as the gradual disintegration that goes on in the linen about her throat, while the rest of her waist is as fresh as when she donned it. : The popular sailor hat may be varied hy different colored ribbon bands, which come with button and elastic attach ment, and so may be easily slipped around the crown. y The sash is seen with every possible cos- tume, and is certainly a welcome change from the endless belt. Many of them are marvels of elegance, rich with the most dainty of hand embroidery, in brilliant colorings, but, afterall, the really most chic are those of plain, unadorned beauty. Soft surahs, taffetas, satin, gros grain and every conceivable sort of silk are used. Deeply fringed ends in the elaborately knotted fashion are’ liked. The girl with a figure inclined to be stubby had best avoid this mode of decora- | tion, as it very much inclines her to look more stubby than ever. The willowy, graceful figure is the one for which the sash was invented. A smart finish for the short waisted figure is a narrow, tight twist of ribbon, with a small bow at the back, instead of the big sash bow. White is to be very much worn this sea- son, and race and Yatching gowns are made of white alpaca and serge. Short white | capes of silk lace or chiffon will be a desira- | ble possession at the fashionable summer resorts, and the only permissible black cape is elaborately trimmed with white. The latest novelty in dress materials is a very ordinary hemp sacking, woven, of course, with heavy threads and very open mesh. Some Paris dressmaker has intro- duced this, and, while it looks very inno- cent and cheap, the gowns are made very expensive with elegant silk and satin lin- ings and outside decorations of embroidery. Insertion with colored ribbons underneath: are used, and the whole effect is not at all suggestive of the low priced sackcloth. Another material called ‘‘bure’’ is very popular, especially in hrown ; it resembles poplin and mohair, or something between them, which is a little like each one. The whole tendency in dress materials this season is to produce something trans- parent enough to necessitate a silk lining and display the shot effects to good advant- age, but there is a new substitute for silk called ‘‘suraline,’’ which has a very pretty gloss and a most industrious sort of a rustle for those who cannot afford the more ex- pensive lining. Beige colored canvas over pale blue makes a charming dress with a plain skirt and a Louis XVI, coat finished with a band of black satin around the bot- i two large pearl buttons at the The enormous popularity of grass lawn will speedily bring about a distaste for it, but just now no elaboration of einbroidered beads and silk and lace seems too good to be dedicated to its honor. A lovely bodice of grass lawn which it has been my pleasing task to interview this week is embroidered all over with many colored cottons—green, pink, blue and yel- low—and this supplied with a tabbed basque set upon a frill of black velvet, the front of the bodice turning back with doub- le tabs from neck to waist, edged with tiny little frillings of lace over green chiffon. Many of the gowns are made entirely of muslin, spotted or plain or embroidered, and these look delightful when trimmed with ribbons or lace ; and a pleasing model of a plain white muslin gown appears striped with insertions of black lace mount- ed over a lining of black and white and blue striped satin, Nothing delights the eye as colors, prop- erly harmonized, while nothing jars on a sensitive organization as much as ill assort- ed-tints. The employment of color has its foundation in philosophical laws, for cer- tain shades in close proximity to other tints partake somewhat of their quality, either raising or lowering their tone. Above all, should the woman who values her appearance study the proper applica- tion of color to dress. The reason. that dark red is becoming to brunettes is be- cause it whitens the rH by contrast. Yel- low, especially the dark rich shades, is flattering to olive-skinned women, as it causes them to seem fairer by contrast, one tone neutralizing the other, Deep rose is a difficult color to manage, for under it most dazzling complexions lose their freshness when brought in eGntact with certain shades of pink. Violet should never be worn women with muddy skins, as it emphsizes the yellow in their complexion ; it is\ adapted to both brunettes and blondes with a high color, as it tones them down. While the delicate shades of blue, such as forget-me-nots, sky blue and_turquoise, are eminently becoming to fair women, they are not flattering to dark ones. Dark blue may be safely worn hy blondes and brunettes. Green is par excellence the color of fair, spiritual-looking women. It should not however be donned by those witb too pal- lid cheeks, as it accentuates their pallor ; green, however, the most trying shades, may be safely adopted, provided a little lace or frill intervenes, which accentuates all other tones. Dead white is exceedingly trying, and only becomes persons with lovely pink- tinted complexion. Cream and ivory white can be more safely worn. These white materials look well on blonde and brunette alike, as they take on to them- selves the vaporous gray tones, due to the transmission of light. Black, while universally worn, is not al- ways becoming, and an all black gown is apt to, age a woman and bring out facial defects,