i LQ Bellefonte, Pa., Nov. 8, 1895. DISCIPLINED. With earnest pleading when We seek To know (od's perfect teaching, To fit us for our lifework here, His guidance thus beseeching ; He givedlus light to see, a heart To feel His manifesting, And strengthens Faith until we feel Sweet peace, when on him resting. We would be grateful for each rich Each dear and Heaven sent blessing ; Would worship give, with homage due— His mighty power confessing ; He quickent dull preceptions, thus Reveals most wondrous beauty In earth and sky, in sea and shore, And even in daily duty. We would choose Wisdom as the best Of every earthiy treasure : Tr He makes us hunger, thirst to drink The fountain without measure : He leads us by the stony path, The mountain steep ascending, 2 Whera broader visions, rose crowned heights And harmonies are blending. We would be His, and His alone; Ah ! here the heart has fainted ! He shatters idols one by one, Our love for them aftainted.; Removes our dear ones ; severs ties By many sad negations ; But fills the soul with brightest hopes And heavenly consolations. AEE RRR 0 THE MAN IN BLACK AND HIS MIS- TAKE. A Little Romance That Was Quite Out of the Ordinary. Reginald Van Swellum muttered : “Confound it!" He moved his head so far to the right in his eflort to get a glimpse of the face behind the paper novel that it crashed into the bonnet of the woman in the seat next him on thatside ; then he leaned over to the left; and his derby crumpled the paper in which the crusty individual on that hand was en- grossed, and the crusty individual, in turn, scowled at him. It was of no use. He could see but her pretty hat and a tew waves of soft dark hair beneath it; two small hande neatly gloved, a trim waist; the face was hidden by the blue- backed novel that she was reading. So he was compelled to stare disconso lately at the binding and at the great black letters thereon, which read : “A Fatal Love.” The guard thrust his head into the car and bawled: “Nexate!” The door banged shut and Van Swellum again muttered : “Confound it! and Fourteen’s mine.” He craned his neck in an endeavor to see over the top of the paper vol ume. But it was in vain. Then a great hulking Italian got right in the middle of the aisle and completely shut off his view. Van Swellum was inwardly calling down vengeance on his stupid head when the train swung around the curve and the man toppled over. There was a slight feminine scream. Van Swel- lum jumped from his place and picked “A Fatal Love” from beneath a for- eigner’s feet, and while the discomfited fellow was pouring forth apologies in broken English, be politely handed the crumpled volume to its blushing own- er, Then, for the first {ime he saw her face, and he was not disappointed. Beneath the wavy brown hair he found a broad, white forehead, delicate brown lashes, clear blue eyes, a straight, well.cut nose, full rounded cheeks, pink with health, and a mouth —when Van Swellum saw it parted in a emile be fell back in his seat and muttered : “Thank vou, my clumsy Italian friend.” The novel hid the face from view again, and he stared blankly at the blue binding and lost himeelt in thought. “Plaguey pretty. Kuoew there was something behind that book worth looking at. 1'd like to meet her. I wonder where she lives and who she is. Nothing like ber in our set. Now if mother would pick out something like that for me, I would be willing. But Aogelica Billions ; ugh! Well, money and déauty never do go hand in hand. What a mouth! TI really think she smiled at me when—"" “T-e-e-n |" bawled the guard. Van Swellum started. “Fourteen ?”” he inquired of the crusty individual next him. That per- sonage nodded stolidly at him in reply. He jumped from his seat, dashed through the car and was just in time to force his way through the closing gates. He threaded his way down the crowded stairs and started up Sixth avenue. Suddeniy he halted ; then he smiled and plunged on among the crowd. Right ahead was the pink ehirt; and the neat hat, the brown hair and a haad holding the blue backed novel. “She must live arcund here,” thought the now excited Van Swellum. “If she does, I'll find where : and if I find where—adien to all thoughts of Angelica Billions. Mother'll kick, but what's a mother’s kicking to a son’s happiness.” He stopped. She had turned into a small shop. He would wait until she came out. He walked very slowly, until he found that he was getting dangerously near the store. She might discover him. He wheeled about and walked slowly back, fre- quently glancing about to see that she did not escape him. Teu minutes and che had not come out. Could she have seen him and escaped by a back door? He would find out. He turned and walked rapidly up the ave- nue by the shop; he looked in the window and gasped. It was-a shock to Reginald Van Swellum. She had removed her hat and was seated on a high stool at a cashier's desk. He glanced at the sign above the door and read : ‘The Ruination Dyeing Com- pany.”” Then he muttered “Confound it I" and hurried away. Any one acquainted with New York genealogy will appreciate Reginald Van Swellum’s thoughts and his posi- tion. ‘here is no older nor prouder family on all Manhattan Island than the Van Swellame. Three of the name were members of the Governor's Council in the early days of New Am- sterdam, They had” possessed many fine cabbage patches on the outskirts of the settlement which still remain in the hold of the family, Twenty-story buildings rear their heads where once the good Van Swellums dug, hoed and weeded when not busy with affairs of state. Reginald Van Swellum was not the brainiest of his line, a fact of which he was perfectly aware. In consequence of this knowledge he wise- ly refrained from entering any business or profession, not wishing to imperil the fruits of his ancestors’ industry. He was not energetic, and not being energetic, did not care for society. It bored him. It was easier to read about it, comfortably settled in an easy chair before a bright, cozy fire, with a fragrant pipe in his mouth. His mother was a widow, who lived a quiet life between her old house on lower Fifth avenue and her comfortable place up on the Hudson. To have her son safely and properly settled was her sole care. She had chosen for him Angelica Billions. To be sure, Mies Billions’ family on her father's side was not all that could be desired, but then there was money, and, that covers a multitude of sins. The only drawback to the match was Regirald. But doubtless he, too, would have suec- cumbed if it had not been for the clumsy Italian on the elevated train who discovered to him a more charm- ing prospect in life. Van Swellum’s sensibilities were shocked his ideal’s connection with the Ruination Dyeing Company. He felt that his blood called on him to forget, and for the next few weeks he busied himself with the work of forget- ting as he had never busied himself at anything before. He would fix his favorite arm-chair before the fireplace in which the logs crackled right mer- rily, and with a pipe in his mouth would endeavor to lose himself in some stirring novel. By and by the book falls from his hand and he is gazing absently into the clond of gray smoke curling up from the bowl. What is that in the. depths of the thick whirling cloud? A blue cur tain. Van Swellum leans forward and gazes intently. Black letters are forming there. Now they stand out clearly and boldly—A Fatal Love. A smile of content spreads over his coun- tenance, for now the blue veil is lifiing and a sweet face beams on him from the gray cloud. He starts. The smile departs. Over the fair face with its crown of rich hair more letters are forming. He reads: “The Ruina- tion Dyeing Company-" One day he gave up forgetting. “George I" he called. His man ap- peared at the door. “Put that new grey spring suit in a bag for me, No. Just the trousers. They’ll do.” George looked surprised. “You'd better let me attend to what you want, sir. I can help you.” “I wish you could, my dear man ; but you can’t. A few minutes later he was hurry- ing along Sixth avenue. He came to a halt in front of the shop and looked in. She wae behind the desk. He hesitated 8 moment; then entered resolutely and threw his bag upon the counter. She hurried to wait on him and, as their eyes met, started. She recognized him and blushed. Van Swellum blushed, too, to the roots of his hair. It had just occurred to him that she would remember him. She recovered herself and said pleasantly : “What can we do for you ?"" Hesilently fumbled the bag and fi nally succeeded in opening it. “I want 'em dyed,” he stammered. “What color 2” ghe asked, drawing a pencil from behind her ear and pre- paring to make a note. “Well — er — hanged if I know. What's a good color ?” The thin little young man with a crooked nose, who had been moving some cases about the store, stopped his work and grinned at him. ; The sight of him roused Van Swel- um. “Make ’em black,” he exclaimed. “Of course I wanted 'em black.” With that he turned the contents of the bag on the counter and rushed away. All thoughts of Angelica Billions were shattered : all deference for his mother's wishes gone. Of course she would object. But who could help it ? It was fate. Suppose that grinning idiot was making love to her there in the shop every day. He would not stand it! To the winds with the Van Swellums and the Van Swellum blood! He was a man, and for once wae going to have his own way. Four days later he called and got his trousers, all black and shrunk in- to shapelessness. But what did he care? He was composed now and de- termined. “It seems to we,” he said, as he leaned over the counter, “that we have met before.” She smiled divinely, and replied, “Yes. And ain’t it queer we've met again ?” The “ain’t” jarred on Van Swel- lum’s nerves, but he cast it aside as a small matter. He could cure that very quickly. “Yes,” he replied, leaning further over the counter. He blushed and whispered : “Perhaps it was fate.” A beautiful red suffused her cheeks, and Van Swellum decided that he had gone far enough for the present, and departed, gaily swinging his bag and feeling well content with the world and_ himself, On the next day he left the gray coat at the shop to have it dyed also. A brown golf suit, his light check trousers, his tennis flannels, his old and new covert coat, his driving coat, | two pairs of light striped trousers, his riding breeches and two suits of tweed, imported from England, followed in! rapid succession to the vats, They were sacrificed on the altar ot his love, | [he said gayly to bimeelf. His man | George was aghast at the devastation, and vainly remonstrated. He wag’ promptly rebuffed and received no ex- planation of the strange havoc his macter was making in his wardrobe. He would have reported the young man’s unaccountable conduct with his own suspicion that he was mentally unbalanced to Mrs. Van Swellum, but she had gone to the country a month back. Van Swellum had promised to follow her in a week, but instead kept staying on in town until now the sum- mer was well advanced. May flew by ; June came and went ; July opened. At length one day Van Swellum stood in the middle of his dressing room gazing about him at the sartorial derelicts which George had laid out for bis inspection, He smiled. “1 guess,” he said aloud, “I'll have to bring this business to a close. Peo- ple’ll think I'm in mourning, if this keeps on. Only one dyeable garment left. That delightful brown and red plaid that Cutem just sent over last month I'll try to-day and perhaps [ can save it, if she says ‘Yes. Oh, my! Whata howdee it'll make! I guess we'll go abroad for a while.” He chuckled softly. : “And my friend, the grinning idiot, that handles cases, Well, I guess he'll outgrow his grief.” He folded the last dyeable garment in the bag and started away on his er- rand. There was no one in the store, for it was late in the afternoon. She reeted him cordially as usual, as he aid his burden on the counter and slowly opened it. “I have something I want to tell you,” she said with a little blush and a little gueh. “And I,” he said firmly, leaning his elbows on the counter, resting his chin in his hands and gazing at her, “have something I want to tell you.” “But,” she began, naively, ‘*‘you have been 80 good to us this summer ; you have brought us so much trade; business, you know, was very dull be- fore you came, and you have helped us—"" “Helped you!” exclaimed Van Swel- lum. “Nothing has delighted me more, Miss—er—er—'" He hesitated for he did not know her name. “Well, you have,” she replied, her eyes lighting with gratitude. “And Jim and me are very thankful. You see, you were our first customer, and I tell you we didn’t take in much money when we started the Ruination Dyeing Company after our marriage—" “Married I” gasped Van Swellum, straightening up. “Why, didn’t you know Jim and me were married ?’’ she cried. “Oh, Jim, Jim, come here!” Van Swellum turned in time to see the thin little young man enter the store from the rear room. “Have ’em. dyed black !"’ he cried, tumbling the contents of his bag on the counter. “I'll send for ’em.” With that he rushed wildly from the shop. -Not long after he stood again in the middle of his room, the wrecks of his wardrobe about him. “Black,” he said, slowly puffing at his pipe. “Everything black—mourn- ing—fitting emblem. The grinning idiot—confound him. Did he know— did she know? Confound it! It's good they don’t know my name, To think that such a beauty would take to such a whipper-snapper of a speci- | men !” Van Swellum laughed ironically. “Creorge !”” be cried. The man appeared at the door. “George,” said Van Swellum, sol- emnly, “I'm an ass. Don’t you think I'm an ass ?” “I doa’t know, sir,” replied George, stammering confusedly. “Well, I am,” said Van Swellum, emphatically. “If you insist, sir,” replied George, stolidly. Van Swellum was lost in thought for a moment. “George,” he said, suddenly. “The Paris sails to morrow. Go quick, now and telephoue for passages for you and myself |”? The man hesitated. © “About clothes sir,” he said. “I'll go over in mourning,” said Van Swellum, smiling. And when George had withdrawn he added suddenly : “And the Billions are in London. Confound it, it's fate—New York Sun. The Making of Visits. Don’t visit slight acquaintances for a longer period than a month—it you do, however, do not complain of the food. When you visit relatives, be gener- ous. Do not ingist on their returning the visit. If a servant purloin your watch do not complain to your hostess. Take one of hers you stand a chance of get- ting the better of the bargain. Don’t gossip about Your fone un- til you have concluded yout visit. Do not get so interested in her private cor- respondence as to become preoccupied unless you are quite sure she will not return quite unexpectedly. Do not spank her children for ber, or ofter to lighten her sorrows by pois- oning any of her canines and felines, While a guest does not borrow any- thing but money. You would have to return anything else. . Be blithesome and cheerful. In a word act as though you were entirely at home, which is equivalent to eaying do not act as you do when you are at home. BE e——————————— Siberia is a Big Place. A graphic idea of the immense size of Siberia may be gleaned from the fol- lowing comparison : All of the States, kingdoms and principalities, empires, etc., of Europe (except Russia) and all the United States, including Alaska, could be placed side by side in Siberia and yet but little more than cover that immense country. ° ee Se —— ——The Sultan of Turkey always eats alone, except for the servants in attendance. He uses only a spoon or his fingers. Holmes Found Gallty. The Jury Quickly Reached a Verdict of Mur- der wn the First Degree—Application for a New Trial. PHILADELPHIA, Nov. 3.—It only re- quired one ballot last night for the jury to convict H. H. Holmes, alias Howard Mudgett, of murder in the first degree for the killing of Benjamin F. Pietzel The jury retired at 5:40 o’clock in the afternoon, and though their verdict was unanimously reached on the first ballot. they thought it befiiting the gravity of the occasion to pause before returning to court. Consequently they ate their supper and were back in court at 10 minutes before: 9 o'clock. When the verdict was announced Holmes stood, erect in the dock, his pallor only seem- ing to grow a little deeper than usual. He made a great exhibition of nerve as the words that may send him to the gallows were pronounced. His shrunk- en form never trembled, and his lips betrayed no quiver. His counsel, Mr. Rotan, immediately made a motion tor a new trial, based upon the insufficiency of the evidence that Pietzel had been murdered, and Judge Arnold fixed November 18 as the date for bearing ar- guments upon the motion. District Attorney Graham opened the proceedings yesterday by his address for the prosecution, and Mr. Rotan follow- e defense. Judge Arnold’s to the jury wasean explicit state- ment of the evidence, but rather leaned to the'»id® of the prosecution. IfJudge Arnold refuses a new trial the case will probably be carried to the Supreme court. After being taken back to jail Holmes made a statement in which he said that he was innocent, and that while lack of time and money to pre- pare his case had brought about this temporary defeat.of justice, he was sure of being vindicated in the end. He claimed that he had told the truth when he admitted that the body found was really that of Pietzel, and that he had arranged the corpse so as to suggest ac- cident, in order that his family might get the insurance money. Holmes is suspected of having mur- dered 23 persons to defraud insurance companies of the amounts of the policies upon their lives. Besides the murder of Benjamin F. Pietzel, he is alleged to have killed Alice and Minnie Pietzel and Howard Pietzel, children of Ben- jamin ; Julia A. Connor, her daughter, Pearl Connor; Emeline C. Cigrand, his stenographer ; Robert E. Phelps, who, according to Holmes’s story, mar- ried Miss Cigrand ; Emily Van Tassel, Nana Williame and Minnie R. Wil- liams. Beside these 11 who have been identified there are traces of 12 more mer, women and children who were never seen alive after they had entered the dens which Holmes kept in vari- ous cities in this country and Canada. Unwelcome Guests. A Highly Conventional Social Visit by a Party of Indians. Some years ago three men were camp- ing in the Sierra Nevada mountains, killing deer, fishing and cooking delec- table food. One day it happened that one of them had twisted his ankle, and the others went hunting without him. As he could not move about he was naturally somewhat bored, and after reading awhile in the shade of a tree he fell asleep. Thus he tells what followed. I woke up with a start and the feel- ing that something was about to hap- pen. Something had happened. Fifteen Indians satin a half circle about me, waiting for me to stir. They had fixed upon me their 15 pairs of black, beady eyes, and not one of them moved a muscle. All of them had guns, and, what was more impor- tant, each had presumably two sound legs, whereas I was handicapped by my lameness. I looked at them, and they continued looking at me. A lightning express of speculation ran through my head. I re- membered that the deputy sheriff of the nearest settlement had lately shot an Indian by accident and that the tribe had sworn to have his scalp. Did I look like the deputy sheriff ? Was it my scalp they wanted ? Their eyes never wandered, bul mine did, for I could not help glancing at my gun, at least 15 feet away, and at the spot where a big Indian sat compus- edly on my cartridges. Finally one buck made a remark. “Fishhook ?’’ said he. “No,” said I. “No fishhook.” Silence again for 15 minutes. Then another indicated by a glance a piece of vension hung up 1n a tree and grun- -ted his approval of it. I nodded, and he rose, solemnly took it down and laid it on the ground beside him. A little, boyish fellow, with eyes more restless than those of the others, remov- ed his gaze from me to a greasy piece of red flannel beside me, with which one of our men had been cleaning his gun. I took 1t up and held it out to him, and he accepted it with outward composure and, I bave no doubt, inward rapture. Then we had another period of silent reflection, and they rose, stalked solemn- ly away to their horses tethered in a neighboring grove and rode off. They had made me a highly conventional social visit. A Mutual Compliment. Neighbor—1I called to say that you must keep your dog from barking ; he won't let our baby sleep. Householder—I'm glad you called. I wanted to say that if you don’t keep your baby from crying, I shall have to enter a complaint. It annoys my dog awfully. The Only Explanation. Chollie—Youah daughtah has con- sented to mawy me an—er—I’d like to know if there is any insantity in youah family ? Old Gentleman (emphatically)— There must be ? Perfectly True. Summer Boarder—I thought you said you had no flies or mosquitoes on the farm. Farmer (promptly)—We ain't got [any on the farm. We keep ‘em all in "the house, - “Coal QilJohnny” in Luck, A Bank Into Which he Pitched a Pile of Money Returns It to Him When He Needs It, John Steele, known as ‘Coal Oil Johnny” 30 years ago, is just now a plan, sober, steady business man, work- ing under the direction of his son, who is the railroad ticket and freight agent at Ashland, Neb. Steele fell into sudden wealth as the adopted son of the widow McClintock when he inherited her oil- producing lands in Venango county, in March 1862. That was just about the time of the early boom in petroleum and Steele found that he had more mon- ey on his hands than he knew what to do with. He married the daughter of one of his workmen, who taught him to sign his name, and then he came to Philadelphia with his pockets stuffed with money. The life of prodigality and uncontrolled dissipation, into which he plunged was so wild as to be almost beyond belief. He ordered champagne, not by the bottle, but by the basket. He gave a $50,000 diamond to a negro- minstrel for singing a song that pleased him. He frequently bought carriages and the teams attached when he wished to ride a few blocks, and then presented them to the drivers. > On one occasion he wagered a bottle of wine that he would spend, actually paying out ‘‘for fun.” and not giving away, $10,000 a day for 60 days, and won the bottle. At another time he re- ceived a large sum of money from the rentals of the farm when he was on the street and quite drunk. It was in bank notes, as he always required it, checks being objects of suspicion with him, and when he had stuffed it into his pockets they bulged out like those of an upchin after a raid on an apple orchard. \ His coat could not set well on him, padded with money as he was, and he was dis- gusted. Just then he caught sight of a bank, and, rushing into it with the airy for- mality of ; ‘Here, take care of this damned stuff for me. It’s a nuisance,” dumped the whole pile before the re- ceiving teller, and went away, ere that functionary could take breath or gather his wits sufficiently to give any evi- dence of the deposit. And when “Coal Oil Johnny,” as John Steele was by thie time known, tried, in a briet spasm of sobriety, to remember where he had left all that money, he was quite unable to doso. And, he decided, to. hunt it up would involve more trouble than it was worth. Its less did not worry him at all. But that act was his salvation. Af- ter he had squandered all bis money he went to work driving the Girard house stage in Philadelphia to and from the depots, and afterward went back to Oil creek, where be worked as a freight handler for $256 a month. His wife raised enough money by the sale of her jewelry to take them to Ashland, Neb., where they struggled along for several years, until the direc- tors of the Philadelphia bank into which Steele had thrown the money years ago heard of his plight. After they had satisfied themselves of his identity, they forwarded him the mon- ey, which is said to amount to $80,000, and with it Steele has bought a farm of 7C0 acres. . Lincoln and Gay. Tod. The Latter Explained Why He Spelled His Name With One D. Lor There are numerous anecdotes con- nected with Lincoln which seem to have caught something of grace from that connection and which can well be reproduced in this place. One concerns his meeting with Gov- ernor Tod, of Ohio. Mr. Lincoln said to him at one time : “I never could understand how you came to spell your name with only one d. Now, I married a Todd, and she spells her name with two ds, and I be- lieve she knows how tospell. What is your authority for using only one ?”’ “Well,” drawled Governor Tod, “my authority for it is in part the fact that God spells His name with only one d, and it seems 1 should be satisfied if He is.” Lincoln often told this story and it amused him immensely. Some men have declared the whole incident was a matter of his own creation and that the talented Ohioan had never made the ex- cellent reply accredited to him. Wheth- er or not that is the case, the fact re- mains that the conception always seem- ed vastly entertaining to Lincoln. The Right Thing at Last. Ex-Governor Roberts, of Texas, is a queer character. Recently he was call- ed upon to deliver an address to the in- mates of the State penitentiary. The Governor consented, and after reviewing his audience a few minutes, began : “‘Gentlemen——"’ ‘But no,” he hesitated, ‘you’re not gentlemen or you would not be here.” ‘Fellow-citizens, then —"' He stopped again. “No, you're not citizens, either.” The Governor grew impatient for want of something to say. “Well,” he began again, ‘‘it doesn’t matter what you are. I'm glad to see so many of you here.”—New Fork Journal. The Cow Was a Kind Beast. Section foremen are required to send in a report, giving details of all acci- dents to cattle and the disposition of the remains. Not long ago the superinten- dent of a local road received a report of the killing of a cow, but nothing was said about the disposion of the remains, and he dictated the following note to the foreman : Dear Sir—Your report gives no par- pajpiae about the disposition of the “Morse cow killed.” The section foreman sent back the fol- lowing answer: = “Dear Sir——The disposition of the Morse cow was very kind. MiSs Anthony Still Active Miss Susan B. Anthony, says the Boston Herald, authorizes the an- nouncement that, although 76 years of age, she does not propose to retire from activity in the cause with which her name is identified. Like her venerable co-laborer and contemporary, Julia Work Howe, she will continue in the harness, Long life yet to these choice specimens of earnest womanhood ! For and About Women . It is no longer considered good taste to flaunt the corpse of one of God’s sweetest and most useful creatures on one’s bonnet, How can a Christian wo- men be cruel enough to decorate herself with the dear blithsome birds, which have almost been exterminate simply to please the vanity of the fair sex. Thank goodness the people of refinement and taste neither wear black birds or egrets and even the most fashionable milliners in New York acknowledge the rapidly increasing use of ostrich lips and plumes which do not mean the life of a bird. Mrs. Charles Green, of Baltimore, is having built at Old Orchard, Me., a ‘Seaside Rest’’ for missionaries of all churches, when recruiting from their labors. They will be expected to pay 75 cents a day for lodgings, with every comfort and luxury. Their meals will be free. The places being beautifully fit- ted up, and will probably be dedicated early in June next year. Bread as the staff’ of life is a familiar enough idea, but bread as a means of beauty has never received enough con- sideration. It is a subject which the persistent and consistent speaker after good looks will study. Observation and physiological research will show her that fine wheat bread mens a pasty or even a rough complexion, that pim- ples follow in the wake of hot bread, and that smooth, rosy skins belongs to those who eat a coarse, whole-grain cold bread. For the latter are best for the digestion, and guod complexions accom- pany only good digestion. A woman's dress waist these days is like a salad. It doesn’t matter much about the basis of either, just so the dressing is good. Any clever woman can have a pretty waist, if she uses her eyes and observes how easily a plain dress is transformed into a party gown by the addition of a collarette. The new collarettes have long tabs on the shoulders, and either tabs or points in front. These are made of lace insertion, of ribbon, or of passementerie, and are edged with wide lace gathered very full. Sometimes the lace is draped-up to the shoulders to resemble a bow knot, but the long slopping effect on the shoulder is preferabla. If Paris fashions are to be adopted the long fur boa will not be seen this win- ter. Monster fur collars and short boas with many dangling tails have taken its place. The collars are comfortable- looking affairs and may be turned up so high about the head that they strongly resemble & hood: Russian collars of fur forming broad revers are seen on many of the most exclusive coats, and high Medici collars are also popular. Necklets of fur four “inches deep are much in fashion. They are fastened in front with a little animal’s head and two or three tails and finished at the back with a large velvet bow. The toreador belt is the very newest thing about the waist of the autamn girl. It is made of a square of bandana or tartan plaided silk doubled and fold- ed bias to about the width of four inches; this is clasped with a fancy buckle eith- er in front or at the side, and the point- ed ends are left to droop in the skirt ; the bias band readily adapts itself to the waist and covers the intefsection of the waist band. A Windsor tie, knotted in a large bow or a four-in-hand, accom- panies the belt, which is an effective ad- junct to a dress. Mats for pictures are wider than ever. Gray and a dull parchment vellow are the correct thing. In pictures of well- known places, cathedrals, buildings, ete. this parchment is most attractive ; the frame in such cases is usually of black wood. o> The most noticeable featups of the new bodice is the coat effect,” which is given by an added basque from six to twelve inches deep, bill below a very narrow belt. ~It #8 usually cut somewhat circular in shape, so the edge hangs in fluted folds, or plaited in full box plaits at the back. Another fancy is a basque at the back only, having the hips and front quite plain. And still more welcome revivals of fashion are the pointed waists and princesse gowns, which are so becoming to stout figures. Louis XVI coats of velvet and flowered silk are to be worn with black satin and and velvet, flowered in soft rose colors, are made coat fashion, with a short flut- ed basque cut low in the neck in front and trimmed with white feathers and lace. For outside wear the fashionable girl still clings to lacy, fluffy things about her neck. One of the most stylish girls I have seen this fall wore a black gown with a flaring neck ruches of stiff, but fine black net. [t stood out eight inches, up around her face and head and out over her shoulders, There was a smart bow at theback of the neck and a pink rose on one shoulder. Her hat was black, with ostrich feathers and ink flowers underneath next the air. Such wraps as the above are being worn until the cold weather drives us to something warmer, but all the indi- cations point to the fact thai this is to be a fur season. Dresses are trimmed with it, hats- wraps, even lace collarettes. An early autumn dress has its fur trim- ming put on in a very sensible way. The skin is not cut up into little edges that have no warmth in. them, and are a waste of heat-giving clothing, but is placed on the shoulder, whole, to pro- tect the upper arm. The lower edge is slashed to resemble tails that suggest the passementerie points worn on sleeves nowadays. But it is a pity to put fur on before Thanksgiving, for there is plenty of time to wear it after that, and one can get too much of even so good a thing as fur. Long coats for traveling or bad weather wear have deep rippling capes attached and usually pointed hoods in addition, though these last are a matter of personal taste. EE