A = Deooraic alc Bellefonte, Pa., Nov. 1, 1895. Rc SRL THE DREAM-SHIP. When all the world is fast asleep, Along the midnight skies— As though it were a wandering cloud— The i Dream-Ship flies. An angel stands at the Dream-Ships’s helm, An angel stands at the prow, : And an angel stands at the Dream-Ships side With rue wreath on her brow. The other angels, silver-crowned, Pilot and helmsman are, But the angel with the wreath of rue Tosseth the dreams afar. ‘The dreams they fall on rich and poor, They fall on young and old ; And some are dreams of poverty And some are dreams of gold. And some are dreams that thrill with joy, = And some that melt to tears; Some are dreams of the dawn of love, And some of the old, dead years. On rich and poor alike they fall, Alike on young and old, . Bringing to Sinmbeiing earth their joys And sorrows manifold. The friendless youth in them shall do The deeds of mighty men, And drooping age shall feel the grace Of buoyant youth again. The king shall be a beggarman, The pauper be a king— In that revenge of recomp2nse The Dream-Ship dreams to bring. So ever downward float the dreams That are for and me, And there is never mortal man Can solve that mystery. But ever onward in its course Along the haunted skies— As though it were a cloud astray— I'he ghostly Dream-Ship flies. Two angels with their silver crowns Pilot and helmsman are, And an angel with a wreath of rue Tosseth the dreams afar. — Eugene Field in the Ladies’ Home Journal. A MUCH NEEDED REFORM. Women are active nowadays in all manner of reforme, moral and civic, but there is no place where such work is more needed than in their own im- mediate neighborhood. Dressing and living expenses have become so terri- ble burdensome that a movement to- ‘'ward-plainness and simplicity in living and dressing is a moral necessity. The burden has become too intolerable to be borne, especially when it only min. isters to discomfort and disease, the destruction of home happiness, and financial bankruptcy. Many a young business man be: comes hopelessly involved because of his wife’s extravagance. A recent pa- per records the case of a young mar: ried man who fled from his home, leaving his property all in the hands of his creditors, but his obligations were all to local tradespeople for current expenses in his household. Some time ago the the cashier of a bank was arrested and imprisoned for embezzlement, He had neither gambled nor speculated, but his family expenses were greater than his income, and he yielded to the the temptation of increasing it by dis- honest means. Woman’s foolish ex- penditures have sent many a kind man to prison or financial disgrace. It is a hopeful sign that in many of _our best young ladies schools efforts are being made to overcome fashion- able follies. One of our schools found that the young ladies became so ah- corbed in fashionable dressing that it seriously interfered with their studies, and a neat uniform suit of blue serge, made in a healthful way, was required of all the scholars. This stopped all rivalry as to who should exhibit most expensive clothing, and the young la- dies were just as pretty in their blue suits as in any others. Other educa- tors insist that, if girls expect to hold their place in college without breaking down a uniform healthful style of dress must be adopted. They cannot study all day and spend their evenings and vacations making and altering gar- ments. Corsets are forbidden in many échools, and an effort is made to in- crease the lurg capacity rather than diminish it. I recently attended the closing ex- ercises of a school of elocution and physical culture. One class of young ladies came upon the stage in loose classical dress, belted in at the waist, but without trimming or decoration, and no handeomer young ladies were seen that evening. The thought came tome: What an immense saving of time, labor, health, money, worry, and often of character, it would be if some such simple, healthful style of dressing could be adopted and retained. The constant changing of fashion is enor- mously wasteful of everything that is good, and promotes pride, poverty, dis- ease, discontent, crime, and almost everything that is bad, It is every woman's interest and duty to be as beautiful and attractive as possible ; but woman are not usually attractive when first arrayed in a new fashion. It takes a little while’to get reconciled even to women in bustles, or big sleeves. But fashion, like sin. “is a monster of such hideous mien That to be hated needs but to be seen ; Yet seen too oft, familiar with its face, he first endure, then pity, then em- race.’ But the “embracing” time hardly oc- curs till fashions change again. and the whole operation of disgust and recon- ciliation must be peated. Itis wonderful evidence of wemauns power toplease that notwithstanding all this foolishness, she still holds her influence over the hearts of men- If women are pretty in the summer's style, they will be just as pretty in it next summer ; but some irresponsible power decides that what was beautiful and becoming last season is hideous this, Everything must be thrown away or made over, which is about the same thing, The enormous waste and worry involved in this ever-recurring process is worthy the careful investiga- tion of political ecopamists, as well as humenitarians and Christians. Life is too short for such foolishness. Noth- ing but sin is more ruinous to indivi- | dnal and family happiness than in- valid women. But tight dresses, long, heavy skirts, corsets, and other abomi- nations are largely responsible forsick- ness among women and a consequent enfeeblement of the race. A vigorous race demands healthy mothers. Look at the style of dress in vogue this summer, and it is per. haps as little objectionable as usual— wide, long heavy skirts, that make walking difficult. ¥The gain that would accrue to the race, in the way of in- creased health and happiness and les. sened pain and doctors’ bills, if the average skirt was cut ten inches short er would be tremendous. By that one simple surgical stroke of the scissors, quick and painless, think how ‘many hundreds of tons of mud-bedraggled dry-goods would drop from the over- weighted hips of womanhood. But the very women who abbreviate the corsage of their opera dresses to an | equal extent would shrink at the dis- play of a well-turned ankle.” Watch women clutch their skirts in a vain endeaver to keep them dry and clean. Why must the feet be hidden any more than the bands ? When neatly dressed they are pretty. Skirts com- ing to the shoe tops would be neater, more healthful, and no impediment to exercise. This season the neck, be it ever so beautiful, must be covered with a high, warm band that is very uscom- fortable and makes breathing and speaking difficult, and must lead to throat and head trouble. Why do it ? No satisfactory answer can be given, but educated girls and women all blindly and meekly follow some un- koown and foolish authority, and tightly inclose their necks in high, warm, stiff bands. Here is a ripe field for the practical application of the higher education. Consider the sleeves, how they grow. “Yards of material in them, then lined with paper or stiffening to secure fashionable dimensions. The waist is lengthened as much as possi- ble at the expense of vital organs. Pockets are out of order ; no place can be found for them in the voluminous skirt. = Women must carry their pocketbooks in their hands or in some outside attachments, that involves constant watchfuloess and frequent loss. Hot summer days veils are worn, covering mouth and nose and interfer- ing with full breathing. What wo- men have suffered and endured at fashion’s shrine should be pathetic if it were not so ridiculous and unneces- sary, All the beautiful spring days the or- dinary household are devoted to mak- ing and altering clothes. Last sea- son's dresses, though scarcely worn at all, must be remodeled or thrown away. No time for reading, no leisure, but hurry and flurry all over the house till the spring sewing is dome. The same exhausting process is re- peated in the fall ; and in households where help cannot be hired it usually lasts all year. Women become old before their time, are exhausted and broken down, making much clothing which is uncomfortable and unhealthy to wear. Men wonder and grumble at the bills, but nobly pay them when they can. But how to break this bondage is a serious question. [I attended the Com: mencement of a woman's college a few years ago, when those outrageous pro- tuberances calledjbustles were general- ly worn. The principal of the school, a refined, cultured woman, bravely ap- peared as God made her, without one. But 80 accustomed had we become to- seeing ;women with humps on their backs that this intelligent women act- uall appeared deformed. That is where the tyranny of fashion hurts most—women must obey, or suf- fer for their independence and singu- larity. Itis interesting to study the fashion plates of the last twenty-five years- Each seemed so beautiful in its day, and go hideous now. We wonder wo- men would ever consent to appear in such styles. If women can make any style attractive, why not choose a com- fortable, healthful one? No artist would paint the picture of the ideal la- dy dressed in the height of fashion, but would choose some simple style that is always beautiful. Women make themselves old and ugly and worn-out in the exhausting effort to follow the fashions. Watch the crowd of careworn, anxions women about the dry goods stores. Suh a perplexing problem to know just what 18 going to be worn, and how to make and trim it. Immense brain power is thus wasted that might be used for bet- ter purposes. Women are exhausted and irritable, busband and children are neglected, and family alienations often result ; or the tired mother has no lei- sure for self-improvement, and falls be- hind husband and children, and is then often tréated with contempt. It'is demoralizing and degrading for women to think so much” of drese, Too often the fashion plateis studied more than good literature, and even at church the mind wanders to consider- ing some new style of dress or bonnet. Many are prevented attending church because they cannot afford fashionable clothing, and others are led into a life of shame. through their love of expen- sive dress. But for the waste of fashion men would much oftener own their own homes, be able to educate their chil ren, and have a little reserve in bank“: for investment or to meet emergencies. The terrible struggle of living which is now everywhere felt, would be greatly reduced, and insanity, suicide, and crime would be less frequent. Young men would not be afraid to marry, and money would not be afraid to mar- ry, and money would not be regarded as 80 important a matrimonial qualifi- catian gs at preeent. Au elevator boy said : “They talk about the new woman ; I don’t know ! what she is exactly, but if she ain’t! living, she may prove a benediction to the race.—Mrs. C. M. Hickman in the Christian Advocate. Castor Oil For Jack Tars. Thousands of Gallons Sold to Captains Who Doctor Their Crew. Just below the Produce Exchange is a neat looking drug store which has g peculiar line of trade. The proprietor has been in the business almost a quarter of a century, and if the adven- turous youths who hanker to be sailor boys only knew how many thousand gallons of castor oil the druggist had doled out in his time to ships captains the said youth would decide to huut | adventures on land. This drug store fits out ships with medicines. Anybody who has had any experience with the merchant ser- vice knows that the captain 1s usually the only M. D. aboard, and that his knowledge was never gained in any college of pharmacy or medicine. In the office of the United States shipping commissioners-is filed a record of the trip of every ship taking a crew from United States ports: It is virtually a private diary kept by the captain for the benefit of the government. No matter what bappene, the amount and number of the doses of medicine ad- ministered to the crew and to each in- dividual ot it are set down, with the minutest details. It appears from these dairies that tne most popular and potent medicine known to captains is good old fasioned castor oil. No matter what is the trouble with Jack, he gets castor oil. None of the newfangled variations of it is prescrib- ed. The proprietor of the drug store bears out this statement. He says that more castor oil is administered to sailors than any other medicine, unless it may be salts and senna. No cap-. tain will sail without a liberal supply of both. Oftentime a captain bas rea- son to believe some of his crew are shammiog illness, and then the castor oil is administered in doses to bring any man to his sober eenses. Among the medicines in the cap- tain’s chest are rhubarb, quinine, jamaica ‘giogerand paregoric and cer- tain old fashioned patent medicines. No modern discoveries in that line are allowable. So this druggist keeps on hand for his shipping patronage patent medicines that the modern patent flend never heard of, they date so far back. Little sugar pills don’t go with cap- tains, Medicine is administered to a sailor with the idea that the worse it tastes the more apt the sick man is to think itis curing him. Sailors scorn little sugar’ coated pilis,—New York World, Chateaubriand and Bonaparte. In February, 1811, Chateaubriaad was choeen to fill & seat in the French academy, which was a compliment to a man of 42. Is not 60 the age at which the distinguised French man of letters usually receives the prize? Whether at 42 or 60 it is always wel: come, There are French writers, it is said, who do not wish to be academi- cians, just as there are Englishmen who do not admire Shakespeare—su- perhumanly clever persons no doubt, but a little out of the natural order. Napoleon, who at this time was per- haps vot unkindly disposed to Chateau. briand, was anxious to see what the new academician would say on his re- ception and ordered the manuscript to be submitted to him. It contained thing of which the emperor disap- proved, and he returned it with many alterations and crasures. There was, of course, an imperial explosion of anger—one of those vulgar displays which made Talleyrand deplore that so great a man should have been so very ill bred. But Chateaubriand was firm and would not sanction the alter- ation of a word, in consequence of which his reception by the academy was delayed until Napoleon had ceased to control the destinies of France. Chateaubriand’s envenomed pam- phlet on “Bonaparte and the Bour- bons” was published in 1841 and did more than any other piece of writing to bring about a change of rulers, The significance of this deadly blow was clear enough to the emperor himself, who read the pamphlet at Fontaine- bleau Indeed Louis XVIII on his acces sion, admitted that Chateaubriand was the real king maker in this affair, and such an admission may be held to ab- solve a king from the simple duty of gratitude, The Population of Japan. WasHINGTON, October 26.—A report received at the Department of State from Consul General McIvor, at Kana- gawa, Japan, gives the population of. that country in 1894 at 42,000,000. Addiog Formosa, which became a part of the country by the late treaty with China, the population is estimated at 45,000,000. In the year 610 the popu- lation of the country was 4,988,842, The area of the country is given at 7,326 square ri. Compared in extent with European countries, Japan stands next to Spain, being about equal to Sweden. She is larger than Great Britain and Ireland by 6,933 square ri, and is the eleventh largest country in the world. Compared with Great Bri- tain and Ireland, she has 7,100,000 more people, and in population ranks as the fifth power in the world. A Fight With An Eagle. E. Leary, of South Harpswell, a member of the crew of the steamboat Merriconeag, hada thrilling fight with an eagle the other morning. - Leary, who was out in a dory, shot the bird on the wing, and when he drew it into the boat it planted one of its talons in his right arm, and at the same time, with its beak, got a firm hold of his left arm, and set up a vigorous attack with its wings. Leary was unable to like the old kind we don’t want her.” | wrest his arms from the eagles grasp, If the new woman who is said to be coming will use her brain as well as as her heart, and remedy some ot the foolishness of wonan’s dressing and and only by reaching forward and clos. | ing his teeth on the bird’s neck was he ! able to.overcome it. His arms are badly lacerated. Republican Disgrace. A Religious Journal's Views of the Harrisburg Convention. Scenes of Riot and Vulgarity— Things Rule the State Capital and the Cone vention Hall, and Republican Leaders Vie With One Another in Corrupt and Disgusting Practices. * The Pennsylvania Methodist in its . q . IAT issue of September 6th, immediutely following the Republican State Con- vention at Harrisburg, printed a graphic and accurate account of the scenes attending that disgraceful gath- ering. The reportis a long and ex- haustive one and might be printed en- tire did space permit. A few charac- teristic extracts are here given, the fidelity of which will he admitted by all who are acquainted with the inci- dents of that notorious convention. THUGS IN COMMAND. “The first seeming advantage wae gained by the Hastings faction buying ed for a show at the Opera House on the night preceding the convention and placing therein—nearly 24 hours in advacce of the convention—over a hundred thugs, most of whom weighed from 1807to 250 pounds each. We saw them entering and they certainly had the appearance of ‘hard hitters.’ Soon after beer by the keg and whisky by the demijohn began to be carried into the Opera House to supply their thirst and the better equip them for the desperate work they were expect ed to do. Sw» * * * » * THE PEOPLE IN TERROR. “Property owners in the neighbor- hood of the opera house spent -a sleep- less night, some of them being on watch till the morning of Wednesday dawned, not knowing at what moment deeds of violence might lead to the destruction of their property. Nearly all night the places where liquor was sold were crowded with a drunken, smoking, swearing, vulgar crowd, who staggered from one saloon to another, and curses mingled with street danc- ing and -Snatches of lewd songs; and this continued most of Wednesday. For two days it was considered unsafe for a decent woman to attempt to make her way alone for a single square in the vicinity of either Third or Fourth and Market streets. Many who did co were openly insulted in broad day. light by drunken strangers inviting themselves to accompany these wo- men to their homes. * * * * ¥% * ““"HE MOST CORRUPT CAMPAIGN." “Crimination and recrimination is now going on- between the factions, though it does not crop out conspicu- ouely in the newspapers. None deny that large amounts of money changed hands and promises of political promo- tion were made that can never be ful- filled. It proved as the columns of the corrupt and corrupting campaign that ever disgraced the State, and the ease with which the leaders ‘fixed things,’ ‘shook hands over the bloody chasm,’ and divided at the dictation of the vic tor the spoils, leaving their still chol- eric followers in the midet of the mean- ingless fight, is an evidence that there wag no principle at stake, but only a settlement of the question as to which should be ‘the big dog in the tanyard,’ Mr. Hastings or Mr. Quay. * * LEADERS DISGRACED THE STATE. “As the thousands of camp-followers stood in front of the opera house dur- ing the session of the convention to which none were admitted but the 297 delegates, the newspaper reporters, and a few of the favored ones (most of the seats in the house being vacant while the streets were thronged) we did not wonder that thoughtful ministers, law- yers, doctors, professors and business men who have always voted the Re- publican ticket, discussed the question as to whether a limited Monarchy would not be preferable to such a Re- public. “Both leaders disgraced the State for whose good name they were sup: posed to stand. * * * x * A PERTINENT QUESTION. “Mr. Quay now says it was only a ‘truce,’ but the war goes on in the enemies are put under his feet. Will Christian men continue to follow such a leadership? History must answer.” That Long-Winded Pugilistic Fight. Hor Springs, October 27.—Accord- ing to Mayor Waters and Secretary Wheelock, of the Florida Athletic club, everything relating to the pro- posed fight is to-night in statu quo so far as the citizens’ committee is con- cerned. From a well informed source the information that within forty-eight hours the governor has been in com- munication with the colonels of several militia regiments in the capital and other cities within easy distance, and had obtained an understanding that their men could be gotten together for transportation at an hours’ notice. These developments had paturally a disquieting effect among those interest- ed pulling the fight off. The talk about pulling off the fight on the land near El Paso, the title to which isin dispute between this state and the United States was also revived and it was said that on Fitzsimmons arrival a proposition would be made to bring the men together on the territory iin question. November 19 for a $25,000 purse and that a certified check for $10,000 would be ready as an evidence of good faith on the part of the pro- moters. Re ————— TE. A Customer Easily Suited. Tramp . I'd like to have my teeth filled. i Dentist: What will you have, gold or silver ? Tramp : Oh, bread will do as well out an opera company which: was bill- ! name of municipal reform, till all his. making night hideous with their yells Methodist had anticipated, the most |: Letters by the Million, One Result of the “Chain” Plan of Edna “R. Brown.—Figures That Ave Incomprehensible in Their Immensity—The Missives Are Still Pouring in from Across the Ocean and the Government is Worried Over Their Number— Houses, Barns and Haystacks Swamped With Responses to the Appeal for 1,000,000 Can- celled Stamps. As a result of the ‘letter chain” scheme started by Edna R. Brown of Kaneville, [11, for the ostensible pur- pose of collecting 1,000,00 used stamps for which a medical institution would give treatment to Mattie E. Garman, a crippled girl, letters are pouring into. this village postoffice at the rate of 6,000 a day. The operations of the “chain” have been practically stopped in this country, but letters cogtaining frem 5 to 100 stamps continue to arrive from foreign lands. The postoffice, every | house.in the surrounding country and even the barns and haystacks are swamped with the millions of letters ad- dressed to Miss Brown, who has recent- ly become the wife of the village black- smith. As they keep on coming by the bushel from foreign countries the gov- ernment can do nothing but send them to the dead letter office at a heavy ex- pense, and from there they will never be reclaimed. The girl who was Miss Brown ac- knowledges that no medical institution ever made an offer to treat Miss Gar- man for the stamps, but she had a vague idea that if she could collect 1,000,000 stamps she could sell them for $100 and devote the money to the sick girl. To carry out the idea of the “chain” the first person sends out three letters. Each recipient of these sends three, and the second series thus pro- duces § answers, the third 27, the fourth 81, the fifth 278. When the 18th ser- ies is reached the number of letters re- ceived exceeds 1,500,000. The increase is colossal from thence. If the chain is unbroken, the number of the letters in the 50th series would be 269 sextillions, 181 quintillions, 720 quadrillions, 169 trillions, 607 billions, 546 millions, 004 thousand 671. The table carried out in full is as follows : z 142,383,303 427,150,979 1.281,452,937 3,844,358,811 11,533,076,433 34,599,229,233 103,797,687,609 311,393,063,097 933,073,189,291 2,799.219.567,673 8,397,658,703,619 25,192976,110,857 75,578,828,332,271 226,736,784.996,813 680,210,354,990,439 2,040,631,064,971,317 6,121,893,194,913.951 18,365,679,584,741,853 55,007,038,754,925.559 165,291,116,264.776,677 495,873 348,794,330,031 1,487,620,046,382,990,093 4,168,860,139,148,970,279 13,406,580,417,446.910,837 40,219,741,252,340,732,511 120,659,223,757,022,197,533 361,977,668.271,066,592,399 1,085,933,004,813,199,777,797 3,257,799,014,489,599,333,391 9,773,397,043,318,798,000,173 £9,920,191,129,956,394,000,519 89,7€0,573,389.869,182.001 557 269,181,720,169,607,546,004,671 807,545,160,508,822, 638,014,013 If thie chain is carried out to the 80th series, which is the limit in England, a glance at this table, which is carried out to the 50th series, will give one an idea of a total almost too great to be ealculat- ed and far exceeding ordinary concep- tion. The country people in the vicinity bave taken hundreds of thousands of the letters out of the postoffice in the hope of finding rare stamps for which philatelists will pay high prices. Two were found that brought $5 each. Endurance of the Reindeer. Mr. F. G. Jackson has marvelous tales to tell of the reindeer, their speed and endurance as animals of draft—so marvelous, indeed, that he must forgive us for suggesting that he has made a mistake in his figures. “I have myself,” he writes, ‘driven three reindeer a -dis- tance of 120 versts within twelve hours without feeding them, and I heard of a case where a Zirian drove three deer from Ishma, on the Pechoar river, to Obdorsk, on the Obe, a distance of 300 versts, within 24 hours. A reindeer or Samoyed verst. by the way, is equal to four Russian versts.” In other words, Mr. Jackson says that he has driven three deer for 12 hours at the rate of 40 Russian versts, or 27 English miles, an hour. And the Zirian, with a similar covered 710 miles in 24 hours. The lat- ter, by the way, must have crossed the Ural mountains and one or two rivers into the bargain. Surely there must be some mistake. There exists, it is true, a well known tradition of a reindeer which once— about 1700, we believe— carried impor- tant dispatches for the king of Sweden 800 miles in 48 hours, and, dying in the service of its king, is still preserved, in skeleton form. in a northern museum, But that, after all, is only a tradition. Better authenticated records do not give a higher rate of speed than 150 miles to 19 hours, which is considerably higher than what is attained by any other ani. mal.— London Spectator. The Tin Plate Trade. According to the report just made by a special Treasury agent, the total pro- duction of tin plate during the past year was 193,000,000 pounds against 139,000,- 000 pounds for the previous year. Dur- ing the year twenty-six new companies | began manufacturing tin plate, and sev- For and About Women . There are perhaps few amateur or- ganists in England to equal Mrs. Glad- stone. : A very charming fashion, which is all the go now, is wearing a fichu. Some are of delicate muslin, some of soft Liberty silk and some of chiffon. Those of lisse, with two oe three frothy frills, are wonderfully atiractive. They are worn in all colors and in figured de- signs, although the snowy ones are real- ly the most attractive. They are very long and are caught at the belt with a pin or passed under the belt to hang down in long ends. It is a very simple matter to make them. Take a perfect square of some soft fabric which is raf- fled with one or more ruffles about the edge. Itis then folded in shawl fash- ion and worn over the shoulders. How to Lost FLesH, THE TESTIMO- NY oF ONE WHO HAS SUFFERED AND BEEN REDEEMED.—After much study and looking about she determined upon a regimen. She instantly gave up sug- arin tea or coffee, and milk at any time. For two months she took for breakfast, luncheon and dinner only beefsteak and toast, and now and then spinach and lettuce ; always oranges— oranges in plenty. She drank with this clear coffee or tea. Sometimes she took claret. She limited the amount of water taken through the day to one quart, or at most three pints. Some of this she drank before or after meals. Often she squeezed the juice of a lemon in it. When the two months were over and the flesh-had begun to dimin- ish she ate other vegetables and fruit, corn, peaches, celery, but never any vegetable that grew underground—po- tatoes, onions, parsnips, turnips or beets. She never ate--and this was her most important rule—she never ate anything fermenting in character, any pears. plums, grapes or sweels. Because bread has a fermenting quality in it, she always toasted it dry. Pudding she never touched, sauces nor cake. If any food led to flatulency in any form she knew at once it was food to be avoided. By-and-by, after the first few months, she allowed herself now and then an oc- casional sweet or an ice, but never as a | habit.— From Harper's Bazar, Ribbons play no small part in the be- deckment of the half-mourning frock, for dressy occasions. Broad ribbons of the softest surah are shown in both black and white, and are arranged on the frock in sash effect. An exceedingly smart gown of black silk grenadine, made over black satin, - has decorations of white surah run through slides of jet set with tiny pearls. The skirt is a very gracefully cut affair, the stiffness of the satin and the grena- dine making it stand out in the smart- est sort of way. The bodice is plain and seamless, the thin outside setting smoothly over the fitted underlining. The sleeves are in the bishop style, and stand out stiffly down to the waist. The bodice has a dainty arrangement of white surah ribbons brought from the low-cut shoulders through a pearl-set slide across the bust, through another slide, there to the waist, where the ends fall half way down the skirt, finished by a full bow. A wide stock of ribbon, with an immense bow at the back, fin- iches the costume. A gown of soft white wool is treated in the same man- ner, substituting soft black surah rib- bons for the white ones. The postillion back again appears, and if ever there was a back that only a women of faultless figure should risk that is the one. If yoa have that sort of a back, all right; if you haven't, “‘beware’’ is the word, and is should be read witk the gory melodrama’s em- phasis. The watteau back is on the way, too, and it will come combined with the open shepherdess front and the petticoat styles. Of course, this sort of thing will not be rushed into at once, or women would all seem to have rigged for a fancy dress ball, but it may be as well to gather up any pretty flowered brocade you come across, because of this sort of stuff are the watteau shep- herdess affairs made. Don’t call it a ruche or a boa, but style ita tour de cou. Then having got the name in mind—whether you can pronounce it or not—don’t pay more for it than you would if it were a plain United States name, The prettiest way to arrange your bair ? Especially if it is very long, very thick, and a most beautiful color, yet cannot be worn hanging down in braids, because you are too tall for any- thing so childish, nor fastened up in a graceful Psyche knot at the back of the head, quite near the neck, because it is too heavy, and comes tumbling down at inconvenient seasons. Lovely hair, but an embarrassment of riches, is it not ? If it were my hair, and I were the dear young girl who finds it a bother and a burden, I would coil it on top of my head and wear it like a crown. I wouldn’t mind its having the effect of making wme look taller, and I would stand up very straight, and look as tall as I could. In my opinion height is a beauty, and I never care about & girl's being tall, except to admire her. Tall girls must mind that they carry them- selves well, and do not stoop nor crane their heads forward as if they had lost something and were perpetually look- ing for it. You remember Tennyson’s picture, do you not,a word picture such as only a poet could paint : : “A daughter of the gods, Divinely tall, and most divinely fair.” If the coronal effect were unbecom- ing, or gave a feeling of weight on top of my head, then I would braid the hair in several strands, and mass it all over the back of the head. I would simply part it in the middle, and avoid fringes and bangs, and little curls, crimps, and other atempts at decoration in front. When hair has a natural wave er ripple it is very pretty, and enteen are now making or preparing to make black plate. With the new mills | now being constructed, the country will | have a capacity of 570,000,000 pounds a year, or within 10,000,000 pounds of its total annual consumption. These fig- ures, however, must not be mentioned before any Republican who thinks we cannot make tin plate without McKin- ley protection. rn Subscribe for the WATCHMAN. should have its way, but straight hair is pretty too, and girls should be zatis- fied to wear their hair in the style na. ture intended for them. The day of the glazed kid glove for dress occasions seems about over. The soft, dull suedes are once more popular and glazed kid is regarded as a poor substitute for the heavy dogskin gloves dear to the tailor made girl.