“ ¥ Bellefonte, Pa., Oct. 25, IT ALL WILL COME OUT RIGHT, Whatever is a cruel wrong, Whatever is unjust, The honest years that speed along Will trample in the dust: In restless youth I railed at fate With all my puny might, But now I know if I but wait. It all will come out right. Through Vice may don the Judge's gown And play the censor’s part, And Fact be cowed by Falsehood’s frown And nature ruled by art; ~~ Though labor toils through blinding tears And idle Wealth is might, 1 know the honest, earnest years Will bring it out all right. Though poor and loveless creeds may pass For pure religion's gold ; Though ignorance may rule the mass While truth meets glances cold— I know a law complete, sublime, Controls us with its might, And in God's own appointed time ~~ It all will come out right.— Ella W. Wilcox. ECS HTT. THE STRIKE IN THE CHOIR. BY ROBERT J. BURDETTE. When 1 was a boy, away back in the vears when the days were so ehort that it took fourteen or fifteen of them to make a week, I attended divine ser- vices with my parents in an old Bap- tist church in Peoria. My legs were chort and the pew was high, and while’ I ligtened to the sermon and swung my feet, shackled by the unwonted and cruel shoon of the Sabbath Day, I often woundered how many hundred years it would be ere 1 could reach the floor with my feet as my father did. There were two foot-stools in the pew, but 1t was considered wicked for a boy to put his feet on one of them. They were made exclusively for grown-up people who did not need them. They were also used to trap the unwary stranger who came sliding eoftly and cideways into the pew without an in. vitation. He fell over one and kicked the other. That notified the worshép- ers in the front pews that there was a stranger within our gates and they could turn around and look at him. But for this automatic system of sig aling, many a devout ‘woman would Far gone home without knowing the particular kind of clothing the stranger wore. Straight across the rear of the church,:high above the congregation, ran a long gallery. Here was the melodeon, which was the pipe-organ of our day ; here sat the choir, literally and musically “out of sight’ I re. member we had an odd custom, origi- nating in some idea so old that nobody could remember it, and the rest of us never knew it. When the congrega- tion rose to sing the ‘closing hymn, it about faced and looked at the choir. Than at the end of the hymn we faced about once more and received the benediction. I suppose this was done to give the congregation opportunity to cee who was in the choir and what they had on, and also to enable the singers to complete their inventory of the congregational adornments. It must have been tantalizing to look at the backs of heads all through the ser- vice and guess at the face trimming of every new bonnet in the house. Be- cause 10 those days you had to walk all the way around a bonnel to take in the entire pattern. Your mother, dear, did not wear a postage stamp with two horns on it, and call it a bonnet. Men talk about the big hats you wear in the opera house. 1 wish your critic might have stood bebind your grand. mother at a baptism out in Peoria back in the fifties. He couldn’t have seen the lake nor very much of the woods on the opposite shore. He might have caught a glimpse of the sky if the day was fine and your grand mother stood still. But when she rose on her tip-toes to reach “E” in “Coro- nation,” he could see ber bonnet that was all. And that was enough. In that day a bonnet was built to cover the wearer's head. And neck. And a section of the shoulders. And to over- shadow the face. And a flower-garden in full bloom blazed and shone and clustered around above and beneath it. None of your buds and grasses in those days. And our choir! Well, now, there was a choir that could sing! When they felt in good voice, which was every time they stood up, you couldn’t hear the melodeon. They read music at sight as a proof-reader reads print. And they sang in a way that made everybody else sing. Everybody would sing anyhow therefore it was useless for the leader—nobody called him the chorister then—to select new tunes and spring them upon the audience sud: denly. The congregation would join in with all confidence just the same, on the second word, and sing right along, only a syllable or two behind. If the hymn was of the usual length, by the time they sang through the third stanza they knew the tune as well as the choir did, and carried the remaining four or five stanzas through with splendid spirit. You see we weren't given toshort services in those days. There was no reason why we should be. The singing was never wearisome, because we did it our- selves, and would as soon have thought of hiring our Sunday School teachers as our singers. I never butonce heard our minister chop a hymn up into cnt- lets and have us omit the first and last stanzas and hop over the third and fifth singing it as though we were play- ing a game of musical hopscotch, and that was because he objected to some faulty doctrine in one of the verses. | ™ \ Wheu he preached he said what he | had to say without the least regard for the clock. As he always bad some: thing to say which we either wanted or reeded to hear, or both, it never oc- curred to the congregation that there waa a great, round-faced clock on the ‘ront of the gallery softly ticking its enbdued “amens’ all through the cer vice, Our preacher bas been down Fast a great many years teaching preachers how to preach, so we may get back to the life-size sermons and whole hymns again. ; Well, that choir was so praised and =| lauded, and deservedly so, that at last it exalted its horn “like the horn of an unicorn” and decided to take entire charge of the musical portion of the gervice. The leader a young man with sublime confidence, a splendid voice, long curling hair tucked under at the ends, as was the fashion with young men of that day, like the Jack of epades, if you know what that is, and a wealth of bear's grease, flavored with bergamot came to the preacher and said: “Mr. Seekpeace, I must have the hymus for Sunday service on Friday . morning hereafter. I have changed rebearsal from Saturday to Friday evening.” “Bat I can’t let you have them Fri: day morning,” the preacher said, ‘be- cause I do not always know at that time what I will preach about on Sun- day following. You may have them Saturday morning as usual.” But the leader would not have it that way, and he said so. The preach- er was a man not given to controversy in small matters. He said what he had to eay on the subject in a few words selected from the English lan- guage, principally monosyllables, and went his way, as also did the leader, their ways beginning at the same point and running respectively east by east and due west. The preacher sent the leader the numbers of the hymns on the morning of the Saturday following. Sunday morning dawned. The con- gregation, paintully arrayed in stiff and starched and rustling garments gacred to the day and the place, assem- bled with customary decorum. One by one the deacons walked up the aisles to their places, timing their steps with mournful squeaks that deepened the solemnity of the hour and awaken- ed mirth only in the breasts of the younger children, who were promptly thumped to respectful silence by the catapult of some adult finger. The hymn books in the pews rustled open. We listened for the usual little muffled commotion of the choir getting into positions with its little tussiness of small affectations, but there was a most rearsome silence, We turned our heads looked up, and saw a gallery as empty as the Foreign Mission treasury at the close of the year. The presence of the singers scattered here and there among the congregation was explained Some light-hearted members of the choir tittered, but the rest of us were a little bit frightened. The preacher looked up quickly and understood. He quietly closed the hymn-book, opened the Bible, read the Scripture, offered prayer, gave out the notices for ‘the week, preached his sermon and pro- nounced the benediction® Calm and unruffled and undisturbed was he, as though that had been the order of eer- vice for a hundred years. The even- ing service was conducted in like man- ner. No hymns were given out, reference was made to the subject. He was so quiet and natural that we began to wonder if that hadn’t been the way we always worshiped, and had only dreamed that we used to have a choir and saog hymns of praise. Of course that wouldn’t do. The deacons came together, investigated the trouble and proffered their services as arbitrators. The leader was firm, the preacher was adamant. Finally the latter said: “I'll tell you what I'l do. I will give the choir the hymns for the next six months, and the leader may have rehearsal any time that best suite bim."” The deacons carried the proposition to the choir ; it was accepted ; the gal- lary ‘and the pulpit were reconciled ; the preacher was meekly submissive, the leader was radiantly triumphant. But being disposed to be gracious and magnanimous, he gave the preacher two or three days to get over the first sharp humiliation and pang of defeat, then called on him for the hymns. The preacher sat down and wrote a long column of numbers, ‘beginning at 1 and running in regular progression— 2, 3,4,5,6, 7,8, etc., up to 156. “There,” he said, with the air of a defeated man, “sing them as they come.” The leader bowed as he took the list with the kindly condescension of a big- hearted conqueror, and retired. The Sunday morning after the treaty of peace was made the church meeting houee was crowded. In his pew, far up in front of all others, sat Deacon Robert Standfast. He was a prosper- ous cattle-man, a very Jacob, and had been out on the prairies with his flocks and herds when all this trouble occur- red. He loved his pastor with all the tenderness of a big man. Deacon Standfast fairly blazed with indigna- tion when he heard how his pastor had been treated. He declared that it should never happen so again. He reached town late Saturday night and had heard only about the war. He knew nothing of the declaration of peace, or rather, knew nothing of the armistice of six months. So, when then first hymn was given out, the choir made that pause of a lit- tle minute fluttering its wings and smoothing its plumage before it broke into song. The silence smote upon the heart of Deacon Standfast, still rankling with a sense of the indignity. put upon his beloved pastor. He arose to his feet, drew up his muscular fig ure until he loomed up like Saul among his brethren—‘from his shoul- ders and upward higher than any of the people’’—filled his lnngs, and in a mighty voice that had echoed over the surging backs of many a horned herd on the storm-gwept prairies, a resound-, ing shout of far-reaching cadences that was qualified to paralyze a stampeded | steer into forgetfulness of the terror that was driving him to frenzy, he rais: ed the tune.’” Alas, for the service of of the sanctuary, out cf the strength came forth no sweetness, for Deacon Standfast could not distinguish a funer- al dirge from a college yell. And he roared off the first verse of that hymn by himself. But he was enough. He needed no re enforcement. With open mouths, that choir stood in its silent | place waiting for him to reach the end of the stanza, intending to waylay him and head him off on the second. Vain hope. They did not know his powers of endurance. He drew but one long deep breath at the end of the closing line, and went right on with the next verse, developing cumulative power with the exhilaration of his work, un- til he wound up the long hyma with a Tong drawn halloo that sounded like a cross between a war-boop aud a halle- lujah. One by one the silent choir set down as that tuneless hymn progress- ed, but the congregation, although not venturing to “assist,” stood by most nobly while Deacon Standfast lustily gang his first and last solo in that church. I believe he never sang again ; not even in chorus. After that break, however, all went fairly well for several weeks, maybe a month. Then the congregation stood up at eight o'clock one Sunday night and sang, “Once more, my soul, the rising day Salutes thy waking eyes.” And once the morning service opened with the hymn, “Lord, dissmiss us with thy blessing,” But as not more than one singer in a hundred, perhaps, sings a hymn with any thought of its meaning. sim- ply considering the words as rather useless necessities, merely put in to vocalize the music, the incongruity of the selections did not strike more than three or four people beside the preach- er, and they were not present. But the Sunday morning following that, the leader came to the preacher before service. with a troubled face and said : “Look here, Mr. Seekpeace, this will never do at all.” “Well, what is the matter now ?"’ “Why,” said the leader, “this open- iog hymn: It is: “Brother, thou wast mild and lovely, Gentle as the summer breeze ; Pleasant as the air of evening When it floats among the trees.” Now, there has been but one death in this church in the past'six weeks, and that was old Dodd Swearinger, who gotso mad yesterday while he was beating his horse with a pick handle that he tell down in a fit and died in two minutes—a man with the worst temper in the State of Illinois. We can't sing that Mr. Seekpeace.” The preacher melted at the sight of the leader's appealing face. He smiled a pleasant smile that might have had two shades of meaning in it. He may have been pleased to meet a man who recognized the fact that a hymn with- out appropriate words is about as virile and strong as a human body without a skeleton. Or he may have been pleas- ed about something else. Anyhow, he smiled without permitting a gleam of trumph to shire across his face. He said, “Very well,” and selected hymus for morfiing and evening service. ‘Phere was never again the shadow f trouble between the choir and the pulpit in that church. Other leaders came and went. The choir changed, as choirs do ; changing voices drove out the boys who sang soprano or alto- soprano—we used to call it ‘“tribble,” didn’t we? Marriage closed the mouths of the girls who womanlike, appeared to consider it a eolemn, religious duty to ‘forget their music” and ‘never touch the piano’ after the first baby was born. Bassos and tenors came and went. But so long as that preach- er was pastor the choir in that church sang the hymns appointed them, and it was generally understood, although nothing was ever said about it, that the head of that church was on its should- ers, and not on the neck of a music- rack stand.—7n Ladies Home Journal. The Spider-Plant. Travelers who visited or passed the Cape Negro country of Africa often heard from the natives of a plant that was part spider, and threw its legs about in continual struggles to escape. If was the good fortune of Dr. Wel- witsch to discover the origin of the legend. Strolling along through a wind swept tableland country, he came upon a plant that rested low upon the ground, but had two enormous leaves that blew and twisted about in the wind like serpents ; in fact it looked, as the natives had said, like a gigantic spider. Its etem was 4 feet across and but a foot high. It had but two leaves in reality, that were 6 feet or 8 feet long and eplit up by the wind eo that they resembled ribbons. This is probably the most extraordinary tree known. It grows for nearly. if not quite a century, but never upward beyond about a foot, simply slowly expanding until fit reaches the diameter given, looking in its adult state like a singular stool on the plain. from 10 feet to 18 feet in cir- cumference. : When the wind came rushing in from the sea, lifiing the curious ribbon like leaves, and tossing them about, it, almost seemed to the discoverer that strange plant had suddenly become imbued with lite and was struggling to escape. -—The foreign news shows thé Russians are determined to hold a firm haud on affairs in Asia growing out of the late war between Japan and China. Japan gets notice it must abandon all pretensions to a protectorate over Corea. Russia will attend to that, for the reason she desires a terminus for her Siberian-Pacific railroad connect- ing with the European system of roads south of the frozen lands and seaports of Siberia. She will secure the covet: ed outlet on the Pacific in a mild. r climate, accessible from the sea the greater part of the year. That is what Ruseia means in warning Japan out of Corea. SA ———. ——Tho distance from the foot of | Pike's Peak to the summit, by way of { the cog railway, is nine miles, and the ! trip is made in about two hours. The i roadbed and the track are so solid that | the cars ascend and descend without the slightest discomfort to the occupants but one can scarcely refrain from won- dering what would happen if the train should happen to slip a cog, Danger of Being Over-Suspicious. There are people who make them- selves and everybody they come in con- tact with miserable, simple because they are over-suspicious. They are al- ways convinced that whatever a man may do or say there is always some- thing more behind it. and it keeps them busy hunting for the African in the woodpile, who nine times out of ten is not there. Ifa man of wealth chooses to make a large donation for a public purpose these people lose sight of the excellent object the gift attains in their busy search after the motive which in- duced it and which they are sure to characterize as an unworthy one. Ifa man finds a purse of gold and returns it with its contents intact to the owner these people will have it, not that the finder was especially honest, but that he was afraid of being found out and prosecuted if he did not make restitu- tion. If a women visits the poor or sick, or is active in church work, these poor, miserable, over suspicious souls attribute it either to a desire to parade her good qualities or as a penance for secret grave sins. If a child wins a prize at school these people are satisfied that its parents must have given it unfair help, or that it resorted to underhand means of some kind. * i" += These over-suspicious people always wear a frown, if not in their face at least in their mind. Their mental eyes are always so contracted that they can- not look the truth straight in the face and recognize it when they see it. It is too much to say that these people are all crooked in their own morals and conduct and that that is the reason why they suspect everyone else to be similarly deficient. While this is un- doubtedly the case as to miany over-sus- picious people, yet there are undoubted- ly many others whose morals ard con- duct are good and whose trouble is due to the fact that their bump of cautious- ness is abnormally developed. People so constituted are apt, unless they care- fully watch and ‘discipline themselves, to develop the over suspicious disease which brings them and others no end of trouble. There is no more reason why a sensi- ble person should distrust everybody than than he should trust everybody. All men are a combination of the hu- man and the divine. Some have these qualities in more or less proportions. There is some good in every man, wo- man or child, very little, it is true, in some, but there are big chunks of righteousness in others. A man may be rich, and still do a generous act simply because he really enjoys it, and not because he is moved by a de- sire for glory or a pricking conscience. There is a solid satistaction in helping others, which is its own reward, and no other motive need be sought for it. Quit, therefore, my over-suspicious brother, going through life with a sneer and a microscope to detect flaws in the conduct of your fellows, which are often non-existent except in your own warped or diseased imagination and the discov- ery of which will add nothing to your or their happiness. * And those who are not- afflicted with this disease have al:o a duty to perform. ‘When the over-suspicious whispers his doubts about a fellow being’s conduct into your ear do not receive the com- munication supinely or with a smile, or in any way encourage the messenger of evil. On tue contrary, take him straight to task. Make him produce the evi- dence upon which he bases his suspi- cions, and if it is unworthy of considera- tion point out that fact, accompanied by a talk that will help to brace up the moral nature of the man, and enable bim to rid his mind of the disease which affects it. By so doing you will do yourself and the community a service. Real humbugs will be easier to be pil- loried when the innocent hosts, who are accused of being such by over-suspicious natures are separated from them. A Pullman Porter's Talk. Explains the Saying “Sleep With Your Head to the Engine.’ “In riding on a Pullman car,” said a porter, more than usually observant, ‘sleep with your head to the engine. There are not so many head on colli- gions on the railroads, experience has shown and besides, the danger is less from a rear end collision. The reason for this is that every passenger train has its own right of way and runs regularly, and is fooked by the trains running ahead of it. The greater danger is from a train behind which doesn’t know when we have stopped or broken some, thing and been forced to stop. This is the chief reason for sleeping in this way, but there are others. “You get the draft in the right place,’ the porter continued, ‘‘with your head toward the engine. Your head feels cool without being exposed to the flood of air you would get if you were point- ing the other way. But the most im- portant reason for traveling this way is the matter ef the circulation of your blood. The motion of the train is so strong and steady that it sends all the blood toward the end that 1s furthest from the engine. Put your feet to the engine and your blood rushes to your head and gives you a restless night. Put your head to the engine and the blood goes away from your head, leav- ing it cool and-easy, so you can rest like a child! When you have got yourself fixed in this way, and moreover, have got it in the middle of the car, because it is the safest, then you are ready for a good night's sleep.” Advantages otf Education. Little brother— What you studyin, so hard ? - Little sister—Synonyms. | Little brother—What’s them ? Little sister—All sorts o’ words that mean the same thing. Little brother— What good is they ? One word ought to be enough. “Little Sister—Huh | Wait till you get into society. Yesterday Mrs. New- comer showed me a picture of a baby, and I said it was lovely and cunning and cute, and I don’t know what all. | After that wasn’t her baby, but some. | body else’s. Then she showed me a picture of her own baby. And then I head to think up a lot more nice words | go she wouldn’t feel fended. If I hadn’t | studied synonyms, I'd ‘a’ jus’ died. Teaching of English in College. Disgraceful is a strong word, in the opinion of Professor Goodwin, of Har- vard, it is a proper word to apply to conditions in his own and other similar institutions. “The college,” he says, “must do something to redeem herself from disgrace being the paltry knowl- edge of the English-language possessed by many of the students. Equally se- vere criticism is made, on the same point, of Uncle Sam’s Military Aca- demy at West Point, by the Board of Visitors for the year 1894, While highly commending the work of this institution in many respects, the Board’s report laments the ‘lack of facility of expression’’ on the part of many of the cadets. The Committeg on Discipline and Instruction were® ‘painfully im- pressed’’ by the English examination, and recommended that more time be given to this language and its literature, only two hundred and ten hours being allotted to such study during the four years’ conrse. The Visiting Committee on Composition and Rhetoric of Har- vard Univers§y made similar criticism with respect to that institution in 1892 and again in 1894. Commenting on these facts, the Public Ledger, Phila- delphia, says editorially : “The responsibility for this regrettable state of affairs rests partly upon the col- leges and universities, and partly upon the preparatory schools. The West Point Visiting Board recommended a more stringent English entrance exami- nation, and if all the universities would insist upon this, the preparatory schools would give more attention to the sub- jeet. As long as it is assumed that the student has been well taught in English before he enters college, the preparatory schools will exploit foreign' languages and the higher mathematics at the ex- pense of English. The universities can- not be expected to instruct students in the fundamental principles of the moth- er tongue ; but they can, and should, insist upon a searching examination in English when the student applies for admission. “It has been said with great force that nobody can be thoroughly ground- ed in his native tongue unless he has some knowledge of a foreign one ; but the first duty of the academies is to teach our youth how to use the lan- guage of Milton and Shakespeare with propriety, if not with elegance. That there is great need for better English in- struction. in all our schools is quite evi- dent. The ordinary vernacular of the street shows that plainly enough, and the youth who can write a flawless En- glish letter of any length is an excep- tion. Our tongue does not come to all of us in its purity like an inspiration. If we would learn its peculiarities and show its pitfalls, we must make it the study of a life time and must lay a good foundation at a very early age.” A Sleek Individual. A Hotel Proprietor and Livery Stable Owner Would Like to See Hime Lewistown, Pa., October 20.—A man giving his name as C. Burbank and claiming New York city as his residence, registered a few days ago at the National hotel, saying he was ex- pecting to meet Some men concerning legal matters. He remained until Wednesday, when he gave Landlord Clover his individual check for $50. He then hired a double team from Liveryman W. H. Felix to go to Me: Clure, Snyder county, to meet his men. Since then nothing has been heard of man. or team and Mr. Felix is hunting for him. Mr. Clover would also like to see him, as he left a board bill un paid. To make things better the check for $50 came back with the endorse- ment that it was no good. Heisa gleek fellow and others had better watch for him. He drove from here to Bellefonte, where he” registered as Dr. S. G. Hendron, Lewistown. He is described as being a man of about five feet eight inches high, weighing 160 pounds, with bushy hair and closely trimmed English beard and mustache, probably about 30 years of age, and wore a light pair of trousers, white vest, black coat and black slouch hat. A Great Sand Storm. The Continued Drouth in South Dakota Results in a Fierce Hurricane. St. PavL, Minn., October 19.—Re- ports from twenty towns in South Dakota and Western Minnesota indi- cate that the greatest sandstorm ever known in those sections was blowing many hours yesterday afternoon. The weather has been very dry for four weeks and the wind, which was blow- ing early in the day at 25 miles an hour gradually, increased until at 8 o'clock in the evening it was blowing at from 48 to 55 miles an hour, and there was such a furious storm of sand that it was impossible for pedestrians to be out. Reports late last night say that it has begun snowing at a number of points. At Brown's Valley there has been a drop in the temperature of 30 degrees in the last six hours. At El- lendale the temperature dropped 40 degrees during the day. ST —————. Traffic Too Much for Cars. The Pennsylvania company has 41,- 971 cars of its own and 40,644 belong- ing to individuals and companies doing business over its lines, and, had the com- ! pany as many more, often could not meet the requirements for cars. To-day they are many thousand cars short of filling daily orders, and are obliged to select shippers who shoald be first fav- ored. ——Jeff Ellis, a negro criminal, whose crimes were of the blackest and most heinous character that it is possi- ble for man to commit, was barbarously mutilated and lynched in Tennessee last week. The public cannot help but condemn the lawlessness of which the fiend was the victim, but he and the others like him bring their terrible fate on themselves, Emer ———CE CT r— —“1 guess it’s time to go,” Remarked at last the bore. ‘“An excellent guess,” she answered ; “Why didn’t you guess before ?” —San Francisco Examiner. For and About Women . There are now 25 women in Chicago who are practicing lawyers and 15 more will be soon admitted to the par. Dartmouth surrenders. This college now counts a woman in its list of stu- dents, Miss Katherine Quint, of Boston who will take advanced study in Greek. The majority of waist models for this" season will give great breadth to the shoulders by means of full sleeves, | spreading collars, fichus and shortshoul- | der capes, more or less elaborate in ef- | fect. Small, but very full and flaring | shoulder capes ot velvet, that are not more than a quarter of a yard deep, simply adorn and cover the neck and shoulders, but they are richly lined and give a handsome appearance to a gown at small expense. Cotton may be distinguished from linen when one is buying handkerchiefs by moistening the tip of the finger and pressing to the handkerchief. It it wets through at once it is linen, while if any cotton enters into its manufacture it will take several seconds to wet through the threads. Also in linen the threads are more uneven than in cotton. Tweeds and cheviots, which, when tailor-made, baveso lcng been a neces- sary pao of every lady’s trousseau, are now likely to be relegated to the cyclist and the sportswoman. The latest nov- elty is the boucle material, soft, warm, inconceivably light, and stylish when made with a full, plain skirt and coat with large buttons. In the hands of a skillful couturiere it would be one of the smartest costumes out, and one of the most comfortable as well as becom- ing. It is likely to be taken into favor quickly and retain that favor long. The newest skirt hangs in graceful volutes, interlined with very thin hair- cloth to keep them in place ; in many the side breadths lap over the front in a deep plait, which is fas.ened to about the depth of nine inches below the waist and ornamented with handsome but- tons ; the plaits flare out below. In others the sides are cut into pocket flaps with a similar effect. - Long shoulder effects promise to be more generally adopted than they were last season. Sometimes the sleeve is plaited closely or shirred for three or four inches below the shoulder. The low arm effect is al- so attained by shaping the yoke or enpiecement so that it fits quite smooth- ly over the top of the arm. Tabs of the dress material or of ribbon or velvet are brought from the shoulder pointed on the ends and secured with ornament. ed buttons several inches below. Don’t wear silk or velvet for travel ing. A good brillantine or a coarsely woven woolen dress is better. For evening wear nothing lights up better than pale yellow. It.is suited ! alike to the brunette and blonde. Olive green is very becoming while bright green enhaunces the red in the complexion, so must be advoided by the florid woman. Tourists should include a packet of borax in their baggage. It takes little space, and is a great comfort should the water at the hotels be found hard. Women should appreciate this hint, for it will prevent the skin from becoming cracked and dry. Miss Marian Sara Parker, of Detroit, is the first woman to graduate from the® department of engineering of the Uni- versity of Michigan. Her object in tak- ing this course was to become a practi- cal architect. Her thesis for graduation consists of designing & fireproof apart- ment building, having to figure out the strength of every piece of iron in its construction. A favorite model for walking cos- tumes in Paris last spring is to be very fashionable this winter. A short jacket, very full-skirted, with seams strapped with black satin, the fronts of the jacket loose, but curved in at the sides. No buttons visible, but the coat fastened under a flap ; tiny revers, faced with satin, or else put on in jabot style. Made up in black or blue broad wave serge or camel’s hair, these jackets are decidedly smart. Those who wear crepon gowns should know that dust cannot be removed from them as from ‘other materials by dusting in the ordinary manner. After each wearing the dress should be vigorously shaken inthe open air, and then freed from the remaining dust by gently beat- ing the material with a whip or dust beater, the costume being meanwhile supported from a nail or hook. Collars are becoming ‘a most impoz- tant item in our toilets. Those of Bruges lace, Irish or Venetian guipure, are among the most fashionable. Their shape varies ; some are divided into deep square tabs, two of which fall over the shoulders, one at the back and two in front ; othersare in the sailor shape, slanted off to the back, and others again come down in deep vandykes or large scallops. Sometimes the collar is double or treble, covering all the upper part of the bodice. The old drooping leg o’ mutton in one piece will continue to be worn, however, and a modish look is given to these by fitting the forearm part as tightly as comfort will allow, and to ac- complish thin an outside seam is often added. The newest gigots have this season in- variably, and just above the elbow the surplus fullness of the top is laid in heavy pleats, which creates at the sides the distinct effect of a putt. Indeed those puffsleaves may be said to be the stars of the season, and a point remarked with the most elegant models, was, that whether simulated or not, the puff was placed some inches above the elbow. At the shoulder droops becom- ingly, but the lower line encircles the arm with unbrokenevenness, and where the arm is’ thin or badly modeled the forearm section nceds to be discreetly padded. Cotting batting meade thinner by split- . ting is used for this.