Bowers Walcan Bellefonte, Pa., Oct. 18, 1895. BOIL IT DOWN. When you’ve got a thing to say, Say it! Den't take half a day. When your yarn’s got littie in it Crowd the whole thing in a minute. Life is short—a fleeting vapor— Don’t you ‘fill an eight-page paper With a tale which, at a pinch, - Could be cornered in an inch. Boil her down until she simmers ; Polish her until she glimmers. When yoit’ve got a thing to say, Say it 1 Pon’t take half a day. —Hot Springs Thomas Cat. ——— ‘CAMP CHARITY. “I frequent finds myse’f takin a no- tion ag’in a word,” said the old cattle- man as he lighted a cigar, “same as T do agin some people. There's the word ‘charity’ as shorely wearies me a’ heap. Not but what I believe in giv- in, and ae fast as I rune up with a hu-, man bein in a bole I most likely lays’ off a day an pulls him out. But I don’t like this here word ‘charity’ none whatever. It seems like it puts you on & hoss and leaves. the other man afoot. It sets you way up an the man who takes it way down yander. “What you alls calls ‘charity’ in| the east is nuthin but plain everyday | business on the range, and you sees it | round your camp as common as Cac- tug, an 80 you ain't applaudin or aboosin or speculatin on it none what- ever. “You see, son, it occurs numerous in the west that many a good man rolls outer his blanket in the morning to find his luck done stampeded in the night. This yere existence of ours is just the same as a cow pony. We throws on our saddles an draws the front cinch ‘tight and the rare one loose, aceordin to our notion: we swings on, sticks in our spurs an away we all goes- But this yere week or next, some time or other, we finds we've cinched the hull on to some high, half broke bronco of a situation, an it stays with it all we knows, an spite of curb, quirt, buckin straps and spurs we discovers ourselves bucked plumb out an oft, afoot an alone in the wilderness of some disaster. “Such a catasterfy shouldn’t be counted ag’in no one. The best rider as ever see spurs will frequent find his pony saying ‘adios’ most ridic’'lus an onexpected. I've struck grass head fust an mighty involuntary a whole lot myse’f an looks tofind it in my face plenty often yet before I ceases to whirl my rope. “This yere teaches me a lot, an you'll be plenty jestified in takin odds that as frequent as a squar man gits shot too hard to hold his gun an me gee it, I backs his play with mine. He don’t slip from his saddle none while I can hold him thar; go gamble on it. I never seed no more churches than calabooses, no more preachers than police, but I saveys when to he’p a pard withouten no teachin. “Speakin of preachers an police, .do you know I allers allows ‘they must -somehow belong to the same outfit; ‘cause wharever you crosses the trail of one you'll shorely find the hoof prints of the other. “They seems to come west together, they do. ‘Well, I s'pose they're workin the same round up, an it's all right an proper too. The preachers are ridin the ridges an mesas an the p'lice the valleys an dark sinful canyons of human life. But they're both a-brandin with the same runin iron for decency an law. “I've gone on yere a heap about doin of benevolences, an I recalls a lit- tle missionary play it comes.our way to. make down in Wolfville, A: T., some years back on the trail. The victim in this yere charitable cloud- burst was & woman. “Thar ain’t nuthin as will rouse up an consoome a western man as the spectacle of a female of his species a-' gittin the woret of the deal. He'll froth an paw round frightfal at the mere idee. “This yere episode I hereby relates was this.avay. It was just about the’ fourth drinktime—as you alls say, 8 a. | m.—an a band of us was standin an! stampin round the bar of the Red Light a:fixin of the hour in our own ‘minds, when up comes the stage from Tucson. Old Monte was a lookin ‘mighty dignified, an a-poppin his whip like the crack of a 45, whereby he’ was makin camp with his outfit on the dead gallop, an to us a-lookin on these yere signs was plenty plain he bad a squaw inside. “Old Monte «was mighty soft on a woman, an his. notion of gainin their love an confidence was to clamber on to his stage, tie-his reins to the brake, take his whip in.one paw an six shoot- er in t'other, bang away with each al- ternate, an eend sis six horses a-stam- peding down 112 .miles of mountain trail, -a-6wingin reund corners an a- peerin over precipices scandalous, an all enough for to make a graven image spraddle right out and baw with fear, I've know'd females as aged ten years jest goin over the divide once with Monte. The pore, -¢imid creatures would. regard him with reluctance an horror .gver after like he was some nightmare, and yet that .old sot, up to the d y ‘be disputes for place with some card sharp’s bullet ever in Tuc- son, an went a-shoutin home to heav- en, swung an rattled withi{he notion that all this .yere. I relates was the straight, plain trial to a woman's heart. “Well, the stage stops, an as soon as the door is open out capers as nice a little girl as ever pulled a dress 6a over her head. She was put up in black an looked some pale an tired, as she shorely has call to, a-ridin with such a locoed inebriate 40 miles as Old Monte, an the minute she's out she goes into the stage office. “That young famale,’ says Doe Peets—an you can bet your moceasins Doc Peets knowed his business every trip—‘is undoubted a heap elegant, but whatever she’s meditatin when she stack too many for me. Whatever do you think yourself, Enright?’ “<I shorely has to passa hand like that, says Enright. ‘At the same time I deplores a pore rank stranger like this yere young woman strikin camp an ne one to meet an spread a blanket for ther. Now yere's Nellie,” Enright continues, turnin at Fargo Nell, who's gettin her nese paint with the rest an stands lookin on,’an it strikes me as & good safe play for Nell to go hold & powwow with her; Nell ‘bein a person of tact an ‘likewise a fe- male, all similar to the-other. Mean- while we -stands our hands ’till Nell comes scoutin round torue ag'in.’ “Me go talk to her?’ says Nell. “Well, T'llijest fool you-up a whole lot. You hear me! Idod’ go near her. Not as I’m none too good,’ continues Nell, a shovin of her big sombrero back kinder oneasy, ‘but if you alls bad as much savey as some prairie dogs you'd know mighty well this yere lady wouldn't talk to no such cattle as me.’ “Just then this yere strange girl comes to the stage station door an looks out. “(She’s-sendin up a signal smoke now,’ says Doc Peets, “an I'm allowin Ill p'nt up that away an see whatever {is up'anyhow.’ So Pec threw his belt and gun behind the bar, an up he goes, jest ag placid as a sod house. all watchin him, an the bow he makes when he throws his rope for her makes us feel proud, ’cause we sees the camp wasn’t goin to get the worst of it. “Well, people, says Cherokee Hall, ‘we're iif some nervous and stampeded, 80 8’pose we absorb some beverage pendin Doc's return? “We gets our whiskey and sets round, not thinkin much, an bimeby in half an hour Doc comes in. “ ‘Gents,’ he says, ‘tt devolves on this yere camp to make a mighty del- icate play. This yere maiden, who this day hops into our midst, is broke —clean busted ; nary a single centous in her warbags. A brother of hers, she says, with no brands or y’ear marks, strays on to this range two years back. She says his mame was Good—Jim Good—an they tells her in Tucson he's over yere. { recalls this maverick myse'f as a man who gets downed over in Red Dog fast summer grabbin of a bet in a fare game. Of course I'm plenty cunnin and don’t di- vulge none about this shorthorn’s ‘death. but puts it up guileful as how he’s gone som’ers else. I allows he has plenty of dust an is rollin poco high when he makes his last camp with ue. “This yere, continues Peets, ‘pleases her. She says she got a whole outfit of relatives iu Frisco and figgers he’s gone there and says she'll go to as soon as she done earns the dinero to take her. There's how the deal stands, and I wants your action. I wants to say in closin that when I sees the joy a-gleamin in her eye when I lets go the lie about her brother, I makes up my mind immediate to for- mulate and tell her some more.’ “It's onfortunate, says Enright, ‘at a crisis like this that the simple life of Wolfville don’t afford a multi- tood of trails by which a young woman of repoot an rectitood may travel safe to wealth. I shorely re- grets it, but I'm constrained to sa this yere camp is no place for this fe- male, an she’s quittin winner to leave. It appears farther by the report of Doc Peets she needs money, an I hope- fully calls on you to suggest a way to round it up.” ‘ ‘Let's all throw in round.” says Dan Boggs, ‘an make a pot for her. Travelin ain't high, an three or four stacks of blues would take her any- whar.’ . “ ‘That won't do,’ says Peets, ‘I makes a little bluff all similar on my .own hand, an she gets hostile at the ‘bare mention. We can’t give her no ‘money, none whatever, We've jest got to rig a deadfall an trap her into takin it.’ “I'll go ten blind,’ says Enright, “that what Peets states is right. Fe- males is mighty funny that away about takin money from strange men, an it has come to my notice—the deal bein resemblesome to this—as how they seem to regard every bill a rattle- snake. Now yeré’s how we fixes it. Peets brings this female to the New York store, we meanwhile adjournin similar. The Red Light's all right, only it ain’t no place for the caucus we contemplates,’ “ ‘Now this yere is how we'll do,’ says Enright. We'll stampede over to the store, as I remanks, an then when we're located Doe Peets’ll bring in the girl. Then Peets up an says, whoso- ever is yere unk you're tellin me of in Frisco 2’ jest like that. An the girl replies mebby ‘It’s Jim .Jones.” Now Joes where I gets my carde. I aughs all easy an sociable an says : ‘Jim Jones? Not old Jim .Jones of Frisco? Why, me an Jim was old runnin mates way back ia the fifties.’ Thea, sorter backin the play, as all proper a discoverin the child of an old friend, I ups and kisses her. Then we sets round and powwows, an final’ I recolleete owin Jim $455.50, closin out a claim over in Nevahda in 1859— bein an interest Jim forgets about—an I urges her, bein she's headed that way, to take Jim’s dust to him. ‘*At thie p'nt we overturns her rea- son still more by Peets eayin he'll cash a draft on to that Red Dog brother for $100, to take ber through to Frisco, I objectin, of course, mighty guileful, agin using any of her Uncle Jim’s dust, onless it's forced play som’ers along the trail. As to said sum I owes her Uncle Jim, why. we makes it up by chippin in, as was suggested by Dan Boggs.’ “ ‘We takes another round of drinks on this, barkeep,’ says Boggs. ‘You can gamble old mau Enright gets her straight every time.’ “So we all drinks in admiration of Enright, an then Cherokee Hall, who deals faro in the Red Light, gets his stack in. comes ropin at a camp like thisis 8 “ «Mr. Enright and gents,’ says he We was, ‘I don’t aim to seem romantic, but I'm | in favor of sparin the feelings of this yere female. At the same tinve we lines ther out for her Uncle Jim, as suggested. Now, what I says is this : "Stead of givin this female the money e'pose we makes five or six poker games out of ‘this yere assembly—say $200 table stdke—an rakes on tene or better showed, this yere person in dis. tressto take the rake. By pursooin of this course’ we encourages trade, proyides the money, an the girl ain't under obligations to nobody nor nothin.’ “‘I'm in on this yere poker game,’ says ‘Faro Nell, ‘ain’t I, Cherokee ?’ 4 (Well, now, you're shorely in it, Nellie,” says Cherokee. ‘Your chair sets next to mine. I never wants no better people near me.’ “¢] indorses the remark of Mr, Hall, says Doc Peets, ‘with my full name. He's a sport and a gentleman, Now you all canter over to the store, like Emright says, while I rounds up the girl’ “Well, that’s how we do it. We works round the girl too easy. En. right lies an Peets lies an Cherokee he lies. Old man Enright kisses his old pard’s niece, an Peets comes in simi- lar, ’cause he knows her brother. It's 2 gay time, an you bet your pony it takes a heap of woe off the girl. “ ‘Say, Doc,” whispers Nell as we goes over to the Red Light to open the poker games, ‘tell-her to sleep in my room tonight. I won’t have to need it, ’cause this yere game we're in for's goin to take till mawnin. But don’t you never tell her whose it is, or, you see, she'll go camp som’ers else.” “Well, son, the rake on these yere poker games was most $800, an we makes her take the whole business, claimin the extra was interest on the $453.50 Enright owes unk. ‘The law makes him do it, miss, says Peets, ‘an you're dead right to take it. There's a heep of bad blood in Wolfville.about this yere sharp En- right a-owin your Uncle Jim so long, an if he .don't get it equared this yere trip I'm allowin the boys are liable to lynch him some. You'd better take it; it may save his life.’ “So the next day we starts her off, first givin old Monte notice we'll down him when he comes back onless he drives slow. When she’s gone, we all feel free and good—like a load off our minds. “We shoved the cut on her too easy,’ says Faro Nell as she turns from watchin the stage. ‘You all couldn't run no brace game like that on me, you bet ; could yon Cherokee? You liars wouldn't etand no show with me. I'd seen your smoke if I'd missed your tracks, an done run up on them lies about my Uncle Jim an what's owin him the first camp you'd made. But she’s a good lady, an I'm powerful glad ehe's staked to take her through.” —Dan Quinn ia San Francisco Ezamin- er. eee] Birch Bark Pretties. Dainty Gifts for Birthdays aud Christmas May be Easily Devised, To appreciate tully the beauty of birch bark, when used for decorative purposes, it should be seen in its na. tive fastnesses among the mountains of New Hampshire, Maine or any lo- cality where it abounds, Even here it is useless for the sum- mer tourist, with only his pocketknie and his abounding ardor and untiring energy, to attempt to possess himself of any quantity of it, for the end will be a broken knife, to say nothing of scratched hands and torn garments. He can, however, pick it up in tbe yi- cinity of any lumber mill, or he can buy it of the Indians who come over the border in summer and do a thriy- ing business by selling fancy straw and birch bark novelties to the souvenir- loving tourist. Get the bark as you may, but be sure to get plenty of it, for its uses are many. The thick duter bark is not ouly most beautifully tinted and marked, but it is more or less covered with the most exquisite mosses and lichens of many varieties, in many tones of gray, green and brown. This bark makes the most artistic frames, which are very appropriate for etchings or photographs of mountain scenery. Unless you are handy with tools it will pay you to employ a skilled workman. The foundation is an ordinary mitred frame, not necessa- rily even, of plain boards. on which the bark is nailed with brads, or, if the frame be a small oae, it is glued on so that the joinings do not show. The large frames have narrow strips of bark glued on the edges, while the smaller oues are edged with a sort of rope made of twisted strands of “sweet grass,” which is also sold by the In- dians. The bark which assumes a cir- cular shape when peeled from the tree, must have boiling water poured over it to make it flexible. It makes a charming dado and frieze for a den, which should be papered be- tween with either a gray green or warm red cartridge paper. This room should have a fireplace of dull red bricks, with great iron firedogs. The bookcases should have the edges of the shelves and the outer mouldings covered with the mossy bark and all pictures should be framed in like man- Ber. After the outer bark has been re- moved there are other layers, some- times half a dozen in number. These are as thin as paper and of va. rying shades of cream, silvery gray, tan aad light pinkish terra cotta. They can be used for postal card, mouchoir, glove and necktie cases, and lend themselves readily to decoration with pen and pencil. Lined with bright silks the contrast is very pleas- ing and effective. For workboxes and fancy boxes of any kind, either the mossy, outer bark alone is used, or the thinner layers are glued or sewn to wooden or pasteboard | foundations and the boxes are then lined with eilk. In a Cuban Dungeon. i Frightful Privations Suffered by a Untied | States Citizen. Not Even a Hearing.—And | Only Released Through Consul General Wil- liam's Efforts.—Gen. Gomez Headed Toward Havana. NEw York, Oct. 10.—Jose Maria Aguirre, a Cuban patriot who was kept in the dungeon of Morro Castle, Hava. na, from eye 24 to September 6, arrived in New York to-day on the steamship Washington, accompanied by his wife and little son. Mr. Aguirre shows the effects of his six months’ imprisonment. His features are drawn and pinched and there is no color in his cheeks. He was released September 6 through the efforts of Con- sul General Williams. At first he was not allowed to leave Havana, and he was shadowed night and day. Even at the dinner table at the hotel sat a spy listening to what he said to his wife and friends. Persons he spoke to on the street were insulted by paid watchers and were liable to ar- rest for holding conversations with a suspaet. He had committed no covert act against Spain. When arrested he was on the point of taking a train for his plantation, intending to bring a nephew to Havana to school. No trial was al- lowed him, notwithstanding he was a naturalized citizen of the United States. NOT ALLOWED TO TALK. He was put in a cell on the door of which was a sign warning other prison- ers and the jailers not to hold conver- sation with him. The water given him to drink was filthy and the bread had to be soaked in it before he could eat it. No bed cloth- ing was allowed, and it was not many days before the exposed portions of the body became covered with sores from contact with the hard stone of the pris- on. Loathsome vermin abounded. Lizards ran up and down the walls and crawled over him at night. Occasionally he could hear the shuf- fling feet of some unfortunate led to the outer air. Then would follow the muffled sound of rifle shots. He did not know when his turn would come. Every time he heard the footsteps of his jailers he expected they were coming to take him to be shot. His heavy iron chains clanked whenever he moved, while the iron bands chafed his wrists and ankles. When, finally, he was led out into the warm sunshine and clasped the hand of the representative of the United States he staggered like a drunken man and his eyes were blinded with the glorious light of day. GOMEZ THREATENS HAVANA. Notwithstanding that he was closely watched after being released he manag- ed to communicate with friends. Just before leaving Havana he learn- ed that General Gomez, with 5,000 picked men headed toward Havana, and that the people in the western provinces would have risen long before but for the lack of leaders, arms and ammunition. Reports from Matanzas, Cardenas Ciefuegos, Neuvitas and other cities stated that the people were only await- ing the arrival of an armed body to take up arms aud capture the fortifications. Thousands of rifles are concealed in the homes of patriots waiting for the signal to fight for liberty. : Thousands of Cubans have fled to neighboring places and only wait a favorabie opportunity to join the revo- lution. The Autonomist party has been dis- solved. Many of its leaders have been imprisoned, others have joined the in- surgents. * The financial and commercial situa- tson in the island is getting worse all the time. SN. How They Differ Man is & creature of cast iron habits ; woman adapts berself to circumstances ; this is the foundation of the moral dif- ference between them. A man does not attempt to drive a nail unless he has a hammer ; a woman does not hesitate to utilize anything, from the heel of a boot to the back of a brush. A man considers a corkscrew abso- lutely necessary to open a bottle ; a woman attempts to extract the cork with the scissors ; if she does not suc- ceed readily, she pushes the cork into bottle, since the essential thing is to get at the fluid. Shaving is the only use to which a man puts a razor ; & woman employs it for a chiropodist’s purposes. When a man writes, everything must be in apple-pie order ; pen, paper, and ink must be just so, and a profound silence must reign while he accom- plishes this important function.” A woman gets any sheet of paper, tears it perhaps from a book or a portfolio, sharpens a pencil with the scissors, puts the paper on an old. atlas, crosses her feet, balances herself on her chair, and confides her thoughts to paper, chang- ing from pencil to pen and vica versa from time to time, nor does she care if thechildren romp or the cook comes to speak to her. A man storms if the blotting-paper is not conveniently near ; a woman dries the ink by blowing on it, waving the paper in the air, or holding it near a amp or a fire. A man drops a letter unhesitating] in the box ; a woman rereads the ad- dress, assares herself that the envelope is sealed, the stamp secure, and throws it violently into the box. A man can cut a book only with a paper-cutter ; a woman deftly inserts a hairpin and the book is cut. Fora man ¢good-by” signifies the end of a conversation and the moment of his departure ; for a women it is the beginning of a new chapter, for it is just when they are taking leave of each other that women think of the most im- portant topics of conversation. A woman ransacks her brain trying to mend a broken object ; 4 man puts i% aside and forgets that for which there is no remedy. . Which is the superior ?— Minnie J. Conrad. ——The Harbor Officers of Philadel- phia were granted $7300 increase over 1893, That was a little drain on the public treasury but little helps to make the party in power more powerful. General Miles, The change in the command ought to mean a good deal to the army. Gen- eral Schofield was the last of the com- manding generals whose early was entirely under old traditions and conditions. This is not equivalent to saying that he was opposed to reform, although it is. probably true that in consequence of this he was not easily convinced that a new suggestion was really promotive of reform. However, he has made an acceptable command. ing general, as commanding generals go, but it is be hoped that with the ac- cession of General Miles to the leader- ship of the army a new era will begin, General Miles is one of the most ca- pable soldiers that the United States army hae ever developed. We say that the army has developed him ad- visedly. He did not enjoy the train- ing of West Point, which, under ordi- nary conditions, is the best training that a military man can have, but he was bred and taught in the school of actual war. The responsibilities and stimulation of command were his when he was a very young man and he has served long and well on the frontier. He has been in command of troops under modern conditions, and knows by experience what may be and ought to be done with {bem as soldiers in time of peace, and if a state of af- fairs in which the problems of the fut- ure are likely to resemble very closely the problems of the past He knows what the American soldier is, what he needs, what bis grievances are, in what his usefulness may con- sist. He has lived on the plains and at frontier posts. He has led troops in Indian wars, and he has encount- ered strikers in the streets of Chicago. He knows the evils of civilian com- mand of the army, and the wrongs that have been done to soldiers and to the service by ‘the politicians. More- over, he is the only man of all the liv- ing officers who are likely to be the head of the army who held high com: mand at such an age that he was fit- ted to assume its great responsibilities properly. The commanding officers of our generation who come after him will be men who have passed most of their lives in subordinate positions. This is a ead outlook for the army, but it is true. All this increaces the responsibilities of General Miles, provided that he is made the real commanding general of the army, with power to carry out the reforms that he knows are necessary for the service. It is fortunate that he comes to the command while Mr. La- mont is Secretary of War, for no one has occupied that position who has been 80 acceptable to the officers of the army as Mr. Lamont has been. His popularity is not due to the practice of arts calculated to win applause, but to the fact that he has encouraged mili- tary influence in the administration of the affairs of the army, and has dis couraged political “pulls.” With such a Secretary, an officer of ideas and energy like General Miles ought to be able to impress himself upon the ser- vice of which he is the head, and to form its character for years to come.— From Harper's Weekly. Woods in Fashion. There are always different ideas as to what woods are fashionable. Just now there is a rumor that polished black walnut is once more to be in style, and persons who have been try- ing vainly to get rid of their black wal- nut furniture and replace it with ma- hogany may content themselves for a while in the belief that soon their be- longings will be eagerly looked for by others. : Table covers and sofa pillows allow a wide field of coloring and design. The tables in themselves are now so handsome that it is rarely a long cover , is seen, and a flat cloth or cover with a braid finish is much preferred, par- ticularly for a library table. The plac- ing of a small table that will just hold a lamp, a book or two, and an agh . re- ceiver close by some comfortable chair or sofa, is one of those little touches that give a room a home-like air. There are many auction rooms in the city where odd pieces of furniture can be fouud at very low prices. Often great bargains are secured in this way. In the large furniture establishments there are often very pretty things to be bought if one but takes the time and trouble to hunt for them. Another Slice of Public Funds. In 1893 the Adjutant General got 8 salary of $6000, now he gets $8000. The repairs to the State arsenal cost $2000 in 1893, in 1895 they cost $3000. The Adjutant General had a stenogra- pher and typewriter at $1000 in 1893, in 1895 there is & provision of $2000 for this work. All of this makes an excess of $6000 this year in thie department over 1893. The Republican party cer- tainly knows how to get rid of the peo- ple’s money. Will the people put on the brakes now and stop the leaks by electing an able State Treasurer ? There- fore, vote for Hon. Benjamin F. Meyers. Nothing Too Small For Them. No department in the State machin- ery is too small or insignificent to be overlooked by the Republican State Treasury banditti. Here's the!State Re- porter’s office for example. The ex- penses in 1893 were $12,000 now, under the Republican rule, they reach $16,- 000, an excess of $4000. The present administration takes everything in sight and keeps a sharp look-out for something new, whereby an honest dol- lar of the people can be gathered in for political use and prestige. WHERE GIRLS ARE GIRLS. I will sing you a song of a wonderful land, Where the wheelwoman doesn't exist, Where the girl that you love is as childish and bland As the girl that your graddfather kissed. Where the bloomers don’t bloom, and the skirts don’t divide, And the maiden don't box or make bets ; . Oh, the girls of the South, ws assure you with pride Don’t talk slang and smoke cigarettes. | | | may be. For and About Women . A favorite design at present in fancy work is what isknown as the delftware pattern for doilies and “table centre training | pieces. It is a convenient design, such as those seen on the plates imitated and done with embroidery silks of the exact | shade of blue required. The imitation of china patterns for table linen is not new ; two years ago Dresden china’s floral wreaths were first introduced for the purpose on small doilies, and this later idea follows quite as a natural se- quence. The 31st of August, 1896, is the date fixed upon for the formal betrothal of the young Queen of the Netherlands to Prince Charles, the second son of the Crown Prince and Princess of Denmark Queen Wilhelmina will, on that day, complete her 16th year of age. The match meets with universal approval in Holland, and the alliance is regarded with satisfaction, inasmuch as it pre- vents one with Germany, which would awaken in the Germans aspirations for the annexing of Holland to Ger- many. In one respect Fashion continues to be most accommodating, for she allows us to wear large sleeves in close-fitting corsages, with skirts of serge cloth, crep- on or mohair, or the skirt may be of silk and the bodice a woolen fabric, plaided, striped, checked, shot or plain. In fact, a dress made up of pretty rem- nants is often the most successtul and picturesque sort of a ‘‘creation.” This fact is worthy of 2 little eloquence and note, for we can thus easily vary the appearance of dresses we have grown tired of so that they may have all the effect of novelty without being really new and this change is now both easily and inexpensive brought about, for the shops are full of handsome ‘short lengths’ that are sold for those pur- poses. _ For keeping the bonnet on the head in high autumn or winter winds strings ! are superior to all other means of fast- ening whatsoever. The women are be- ginning to discover and adopt them, particularly since fashion has sanctioned their use once again. Velvet strings are the most becoming and these may be as wide or as narrow as one pleases, straight ribbons or cut on the bias and made up with a bow to be held with pretty jeweled pins. Black velvet is the most used, but the milliners show toques and bonnets with strings made variously of green, brilliant cherry, magenta and many other colors on models made of black or derk green vel- vet. ¢ Skirts ure’ to stand out well at the feet, and slender steels are introduced at the hem to meet this want. The python steel has been modeled on the a of the Antartic whalebone ; two strips united by an outer network, it is also employed for evening bodices. Our old friend crepon stands by us still, and even velvet has been treated to resem- ble it, the pile crushed into the sem- blance of creping. This is used exten- sively for sleeves and millinery in petunia, green, magenta, black, purple and some other bright tones. The beautiful Cleopatra shades in bronze, tawny brown, chestnut, golden, olive, and Havana—a rich russet brown —and all the deep reds and dahlia dyes, are in highest favor this autumn season, and French ateliers are adding to these favored colors bright aniline mauves, and a nes “Persian pink” that is merely a much softened’ magenta, far more generally becoming than the magenta dyes of a year ago. To CLEANSE A GowN.—One may do wonders at bome with a supply of gaso- line, without ripping the garment, and without much work. It may be thor- oughly washed, to look as good as new, if enough gasoline is used and any care at all taken with the process, It goes without saying that there is some cau- tion needed in the use of gasoline ; it should not be brought close to a fire, for several reasons, foremost among them the odor coming from it, itis always best to take the whole thing out into the back yard and there proceed with the ablutions. A pretty fashion for this winter is the bonnet or hat, with cape or muff to match. The cape is a most jaunty little creation, exceedingly becoming. The material oftenest used is velvet of the new shades. The smart little bonnet and absurd little muff have a style all their own. The “sets” gs they are call- ed, are to be worn with any costume, but look best over silk or some rich material. Fine jet,chiffon.and lace are all combined in the trimming. They are to be had in several different shapes, go that they are becoming alike to short and long-waisted women. The ones that will be worn during the autumn, eays the New York Herald, have ruches instead of capes, andj while it cannot be urged with truth that they have a great deal of warmth, they are so intensely becoming that no one will suffer, no matter how cold the weather A bit of lace always did kee a woman warm, and these have muc more in them than merely a bit of lace, as fur and velvet are the principal ma- terials. For those of the WATCHMAN’S wom- en readers who intend visiting the At- lanta Exposition or traveling in any other direction I feel like advising you just a little on the matter of traveling gowns. I have lately seen several of the newest which struck me as particu- larly chic. They combined at once comfort and elegance. Among the va- rious kinds of light woolen materials in -favor for such costumes the prettiest and most serviceable is of course the old- fashioned mohair alpaca, but the new material is infinitely finer than the al- paca worn by our mothers. Its tints are beautifully soft and lightjcream and crape au lait,afawn and ecru, with all shades of bluish or russet gray, lavender and pearl. These are often trimmed with fancy plaids or checks in which bright tints are considerably softened by a good deal of whitz.. Many travel- ing dresses have straps on the bodice, the waistband, and small pouch at the ! side of leather.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers