Democratic watchman. (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1855-1940, August 30, 1895, Image 2

Below is the OCR text representation for this newspapers page. It is also available as plain text as well as XML.

    as
Flo.
Boor Wad,
Bellefonte, Pa., Aug. 30, 1895.
GRANDMOTHER.
I've read to her till I was hoarse the stories in
my papers
When the other boys were lighting bonfires
down the street;
And I've stayed and learned my verses when
I heard their merry capers.
And I've stayed and said my chapter with
restless longing feet.
A stitch is always dropping in the everlasting
knitting.
And the needles that I've threaded —no, you
couldn’t count to-day.
And I've hunted for her glasses till I thought
my head was Spang
When there upon her forehead as calm as
clocks they lay.
But there always is a penny or some candy in
her pocket;
There never was a pocket that was half so
big and deep,
And she lets the candle in my rcom burn to
the very socket,
While she moves and bustles roundabout
till I am sound asleep.
And when I've been in swimming after moth-
er aid I shouldn’t,
And mother has her strap in hand, accord-
ing to the rule,
1t sounds as sweet as silver, the voice that
says: “I wouldn't;
“The boy that won't go swimming such a
day would be a fool !"
Ofttimes there's something in her voice as if
she gave a blessing,
Then I look at her a moment and I keep
still as a mouse ;
But who she is, by this time, there is no use
of guessing ;
For there's nothing like a grandmother to
have about the house !
— Walter S. Stetson, in Washington Post.
A LAST RESORT.
BY ANTHOEY HOPE.
“They're admirably suited to one
another!” said I.
“Oh, admirably !”
Flot
There was a pausz ; Flo frowned at
the fire, I drummed my fingers on the
table. I don’t think that we either of
us looked very pleased. Yet it was a
most fortunate arrangement.
“The only thing that surprises me
about it,” I observed, “is that Philippa
should have done it. I'm very glad,
you know, but I'm surpriged !”’
“I'm not surprised about her !’’ said
Flo.
I looked up much annoyed.
“You might be above that I'" said I
severely.
“I’m not blaming her, Dick. When
he likes, Capt. Worsley can be
very—" :
“Oh, I suppose he humbugged her,
about culture and all that. If I'd liked
to go on like that—"
“Well, Dick ?”
“Oh, nothing. Don’t worry a fel
low !"
“I'm sure that Capt. Worsley did
nothing that a gentleman wouldn't.”
I was much annoyed at this remark
that I said to Flo:
“He got oyer his disappointment
about you pretty soon, though ?”
Flo laughed with extraordinary non-
chalance as she answered :
“Philippa doesn’t seem to have been
disappointed at all about you.”
“My dear Florence,’ said J, “I have
no desire to discuss Miss March with
on,”
“Well, then, why did you begin
about Capt. Worsley ?”
“Come, come, let's say no more
about them. We're well quit of them.
I don't bear them malice, do you ?”
“Not the least, Dick. In fact, I
quite understand what Philippa must
have felt about you. She likes serious
people—people who have high aime,
you know.
“I have very high aims,” said I.
‘Yes, but you don’t hit,” observed
said Cousin
“At any rate,” [ cried, “I don’t flirt
wholesale with anybody who—"
“What do you mean, Dick ?”’
At this point—and- very fortunate
was the occurrence— Aunt Maud came
in. She has been married to the col-
onel for three months, and is recover-
ing her power of patronizing persons
who are engaged.
“I’m sorry to interrupt you, dears,”
said Aunt Maud, “but I've got a piece
of news. An engagement! Now
guess who it is !”’
We neither of us spoke.
“Why, Philippa March and Capt.
Worsley ! Aren't you surprised ?”
“No,” said Flo, viciously ; “but
Dick is.”
“The precise opposite of that state-
ment would convey the truth,” said I
stiffly. :
Aunt Maud looked from Flo to me
and from me to Flo.
“Has anything gone wrong?’ she
agked, anxiously. But as she-obtain-
ed no answer, she went on: “I've
been to seen Philippa—and he was
there. I never saw a more radiant
couple.”
At this moment Aunt Maud certain-
ly raw a less radiant couple.
“Philippa took me aside,” she par-
sued, ‘and told me that she had es-
caped a great danger—"'
Flo laughed—again most viciously.
“And was now happier than words.
Oh! and when Capt. Worsley was
putting me into the oarriage, he said
that Philippa was absolutely the only
girl who had ever really touched his
heart.”
“Did he, though ?”’ said I, with a
smile of triumphant malice.
“Though he didn’t deny that he had
felt a passing fancy for one or two oth-
ers.” -
I slapped my thigh, with an appear-
ance of great merriment. Flo had be-
come quite red.
“So the air’s full of engagements,”
beamed Aunt Mand. “It's quite—"
“Stifling,” said I, thoughtlessly.
“My dear Dick, what a funny thing’
to say ! But I must leave Flo to have
that out with you.
waiting for me.”
Aunt Maud withdrew. Then Flo,
with an air of dispassionate curiosity
observed :
The colonels
“I wonder if you think you've been
behaving like a gentleman !”
HMy position.” eaid I, with elabor-
ate politeness, ‘‘is rather a difficult one.
When the lady who has accepted my
hand not only displays obvious regret
at another man’s engagement, but
further twits me—"
“With your obvious regret at anoth-
er girl's engagement. Yes ?"
“I see no use in this sort of thing,”
said I, with dignity. Nothing else oc-
curred to me to say at the moment.
“People always say that when
they’re scored off.”
“I hate girls who talk slang.”
“Nobody need stay to listen to it,
said Flo, with a curtsey, and she turn-
ed her back on me, and looked out of
“the window.
I'sat still for three minutes. Then
stretched out out my hand, took my
hat, and rose to my feet. I made some
little noise in moving—perhaps more
than I need. But Flo did not turn
round.
‘Just fancy,” said she, as though
she were enjoying a conversation with
the window-pane, ‘if this sort of thing
happened when we were married !
And unless you changed very much,
Tom)
“If it were enough for
change—"" I began, loftily.
“Now,” interrupted Flo, still ad-
dressing herself to ths window-pane,
“it doesn’t matter. We can just sepa-
rate. But then we should have to go
on being together. ;
Something struck me in this last ob-
servation. I laid down my hat.
“Gad, so we should !”” said I. “That
would be rather queer.”
“We should bave to stay in the
same house—even in the same room
sometimes !” And Flo's graceful
back was agitated with a shudder
“We should,” I assented. “I sup-
pose you wouldn’t speak for the whole
evening ?"”
“We should have to keep up appear-
ances, and seem to be friendly when
the servants were there—and—oh, it
would be awful!”
I put mv hands in my pockets and
surveyed Flo.
“What should we have to do?’ I
asked with curiosity.
“Make a loathsome pretense of—of
still caring for oae another, I suppose,
said Flo, with a groan of prospective
horror.
“But what should we have to do ?’
I persisted. I wanted details. ‘Should
we have to talk ?’
“Yes,” snapped Flo.
“Should I,” I pursued, taking a
step towards Flo, “have to kies you?”
“Oh. I suppose—I wonder why you
don’t go !”
“And you would have to kiss me ?”’
To this question I received no an-
answer at all. But I was bound to ex-
tract one; I could not leave the
matter unsettled. So I rang the bell.
“What are you ringing for?’ said
Flo, facing round suddenly.
“For the footman,” eaid I, nodding
my head.
“I should have thought you could
find your way out,” and she right-
about-faced again.
Then William opened the door.
“Did you ring, sir ?"’ he asked ob-
serving, I suppose, that Flo did not ap-
pear to want anything.
“Yes William, I rang. I want—"
“It's a mistake, William,” came
suddenly from the window-
“No, it isn’t,” said I. “I must ask
William—""'
“Nonesense, Dick! It's only Mr.
Vausitiart’s joke, William.”
“Well, then,” said I, “can we do it
without William ? If so, he can go.”
There was the slightest of pauses.
Then Flo said :
“Yes, you may go, William.”
Willian, looking somewhat puzzled,
withdrew ; and then Flo, much flush-
ed, turned round once for all.
“I can’t think,’ said she, “how you
can be so foolish. I don’t know what
you'd have done in another minute.”
“I should,” I answered, have kept
up appearances.”
“Flo's lips twitched a little.
it in a moment. *
“It is perfectly useless for me,” I
observed, plaintively, ‘to try to escape
from you. Your resentment is not to
be relied upon for a quarter of an hour.
I am nearly heart-broken about Phil-
ippa March.”
“Well, I'm sore about Capt. Wor-
sley.” ” ;
“But,” said I, “I'm going to be as
man. [I’m going to forget Philippa
and keep my word to you. Will you
put the captain out of your heart ?”’
“I'll try,” said Cousin Flo.
“Because you know if, after we are
married, you speak of him with re-
gret—"'
“Or if you seem to wish Philippa
had—"
“All those terrible things will hap-
pen.”
“Yes, I know, Dick. Are we really
wise to—to risk it ?"’
I knitted my brows. It was really a
serious question. I studied Flo's fea-
tures,
“I'm puzzled,” I answered. “You're
very charming, Flo, but—="
“I don’t trust you, Dick.”
There was a long sad pause. Flo
held out her hand with a gesture of
farewell. I looked in her eyes. I
took the hand.
“It is really best,” said Flo, gent-
me to
1 saw
“I suppose it is,” said I rather for-
lornly, sqeezing her hand.
“Marriage is such an irrevocable
step,” Flo remined me.
“Well, anyhow, it's very trouble-
| some to—""
“And if,” interrupted Flo, “when it
was too late, when we awoke to the
fact—No! G—good-by, Dick I”
ged: Flo,” said I much mov-
ed.
Thus we parted. I took my bat,
without a backward glance, started
for the door.
At this moment, curiously enough,
the door opened. William came in.
“Please, miss,’ said he, tea’s ready
in the drawing-room.”
“Thank you, William,” said Flo, in
| & very low voice.
William withdrew. = I stood medita-
°
tively in the middle of the room. Then
I put my hat down.
“Hang it,” said I, resting my eyes
on Flo's face, “we shall always have
servants !" *
“The servants ?"’ murmured Flo, in
destin, :
“Why, yes,” said I, and I began to
‘smile. ‘And, if the worst comes to
the worst, we must—"" I paused and
took Flo's hand again.
“We must what, Dick ?”’ she ‘ask-
ed.
“We must,” I answered, ‘rub along
on keeping up appearances.”
We were disgracefully late for tea.—
Idler.
Pennsylvania’s Humiliation.
Certainly no citizen who respects the
honor and dignity of the common-
wealth, no matter whether he inclines
to the combine or the Quay faction,
or is independent of any connection or
sympathy with either of them, but
must feel a sense of humiliation at the
‘attitude of Governor Hastings. His
latest break is flooding portions of the
state with personal appeals, in fac-
simle of his handwriting, asking the
Republican voters to stand by him in
the contest. The appeal starts out
with the falsehood that ‘the opposi-
tion to me is because I have favored
apportionment by “the legislature,”
and this is followed by a nugget of
truth stating substantially the whole
ground of opposition, which is ‘be-
cause I favor Hon. B. F. Gilkeson as
chairman of the slate committee.”” He
concludes with the whine, “If I am
right, I trust you will sustain me by
your vote and your influence.”
These circulars are to influence the re-
maining primaries, and are the last
despairing kick of the governor of the
state.
If Governor Hastings had kept his
hands out of the fight, as, every sense
of official propriety dictated, it would
have been shorn of much of its bitter-
ness, and the governor would have oc-
cupied a position where he could have
imposed terms on the wrangling fac-
tions. He gave up the office of arbiter
for that of a mere tender and annex to
the corrupt political machines en-
gineered by Mr. Magee and his con-
frere, Mr. “Dave” Martin. No gov-
ernor of the state ever before so lower-
ed himself. He has pulled kis office
down with him, and used its power and
patronage even to the extent of drag
ging the judiciary into the miserable
squabble. A proper consideration of
what is due to his office should have
taught him the indency of mixing in.
If he must do it, it should have been as
the impartial and friendly arbitrater of
both the warring factions. By so do-
ing he could have maintained his own
dignity, and saved the state the dierep-
utable squabble. No matter whether
Magee-Martin or Quay wins the battle
Hastings is stranded high and dry as
a useless bit of political wreckage.—
Pittsburg Post.
“Hon.” and “Esq.”
Custom prefixes Honorable to al-
most every holder of the public office,
says the New York Sun, yet so far as
we know, no citizen, not even an offi
cial of the past or present, is styled
Honerable by legal authority. In the
old Commonwealth of Massachusetts
the Governor is His Excellency and
the Lieutenant-Governor is His Honor
by the Constition. He might, perhaps,
be addressed as Hon. All other Hon-
orables are so by impulsive courtesy.
Happily the President of the United
States is the model for the manner of
addressing every one of his fellow-citi-
izens. To send a letter to the presi-
dent properly to-day you must write
“Grover Cleveland,” Buzzard’s Bay.
To say “His Excellency Grover Cleve:
land’ would be an offence against the
specific decision of the fathers of the
republic. To write Hon. Grover Cleve-
land is to follow an old custom without
satisfactory justification.
It is harsh to charge caddishness
against the use of the suffix
Esquire, after it has spread so univer-
sally among. English-speaking people,
but it ought to be stopped, as caddish,
as unneceseary and as contrary to the
genius of the future. Originally it de-
noted a certain one of the many social
ranks among the English, which was
higher than some and lower than oth-
ers. That distinction has gone out;
but?it is still used in England to denote
a gentleman, as contrasted with a
tradesman. A gentleman is Esquire
and Mr. is a tradesman. Roscoe
Conkling, by the way of condemning
this sort of caddishness, and perhaps of
throwing a higher light on his individ-
nality, once struck off the Esq.,
which the printer of one ot his speeches
had placed at the end of the author's
pame. Mr. has still the usefulness of
enabling married women to be known
as Mrs, but Esq. is a piece of social
frippery and should be abolished
John Smith is the best form of title
for every citizen of the United States,
whether President ex-President, Judge,
Governor, Alderman or only plain
John Smith.
——The Hapsburg blood has run out
and if Archduke Franz, the Austrian
Emperor's nephew and heir, proves to
have dangerously weak lungs, as now
reperted, there is no near kinsman equal
to the burden of the throne. The Ital-
ian heir is an undersized man who will
never marry. The Russian heir is dy-
ing of consumption. The Hohenzol-
lerns blood is tainted, as the Emperor’s
infirmities show. The Hapsburgs have
no sound heir. The boy Spanish King
is the only life hetween the cranks and
the libertines of the Spanish Bourbons,
who stand next in male succession,
though this crown descended this cen-
tury in the female line. Half the
French Orleans Bourbons who sat at
the royal table at the recent marriage
used speaking trumpets. Of such is the
royal caste of Europe.
| ——DMiss Virginia Fair, daughter of
| the late “bonanza king,” is admitted
| the swiftest rider of all the women who
ride the wheel in Newport.
China and the Missionaries.
Report says that China nas perempto-
rily refused to permit the representa-
tives of the United States and Great
Britain to make an investigation into
the circumstances connected with the
recent anti-missionary riots, which cul-
minated in the murder of several mis-
sionaries and the destruction of much
valuable property. No reason is given;
the simple announcement is made that
China permits the ‘foreign devils’ to
interfere. ~~
So far as the United States are con-
cerned their people have no right to ex-
pect or demand courteous treatment at
the hands of the Chinese. If China
were to issue and enforce an edict de-
porting all the Americans now within
her limits we would probably complain
very bitterly and our protest would not
be long delayed. And yet we have
treated the Chinaman as though he
were a dog, cgmpelling him to leave
the country and refusing him sccess
here if he once sets foot beyond our bor-
ders. Te
In various sections of the United
States inoffensive and helpless China-
men have been beaten into insensibili-
ty, robbed, and in many instances cru-
elly murdered by ruffians who were nev- ;
er brought to justice. Our anti-Chi-
nese laws would be a disgrace to a
heathen state. The congress should re-
peal them at the earliest opportunity.
Missionaries and other Americans are
entitled to protection ; our govern-
ment must give it to them. But
it would immensely strengthen its
own case if it were to do justice to the
Celestials.
As for Great Britain she has passed
no laws discriminating against the Chi-
naman. He is at liberty to go any-
where throughout Queen Victoria's do-
minions, or to take up his residence
therein if so inclined. He is protected
in the ordinary enjoyment of the ordi-
nary privileges of life. Great Britain
therefore, has a right to insist that her
subjects settled in China, either as mer-
chants or missionaries, shall be protec-
ted. And itis highly probable that she
will protest so strongly and so energet-
ically as to carry her point.
China has just had ona lesson. It
does not seem to have done its work.
If she keeps on getting in the way of
civilization she is likely to have some
good sense hammered into her.
Campbell for Governor.
Amid scenes of extraordinary en-
thusiasm, and in spite of his protesta-
tions that he did not desire and could
not accept the nomination, the Demo-
cratic state convention of Ohio unan-
imously nominated ex-Governor James
E. Campbell, Butler county, for gover-
nor. The mere suggestion of his name
stampeded the convention for Campbell
and his best efforts to prevent his own
nomination were fruitless. “Jimmy”
Campbell isto be the standard-bearer
of a united, enthusiastic and reinvigor-
ated Democracy. He has a way of be-
ing elected in the face of great Repub-
lican majorities, and it would not bea
surprise should he come out a winner
at the November election. He defeated
the fire-alarm Foraker in a memorable
contest, and has been elected to congress
several times from a strong Republican
district.
Goveror Campbell is not only one of
the most popular men in the state, but
he is a brainy man as well. He has
ideas, and knows how to present them.
There is no more gifted and versatile
stump-speaker in the Union. And
what a campaign he can make with
Republican calamity howling and
Democratic prosperity as his text. He
has friends in all parties and Aco Tors
of the state who will work for his elec-
tion out of an honest love of the man.
He represents what is best in polities,
and withal is a very practical politican.
Anyone can guess what will happen at
the next Democratic national conven-
tion should ‘Jimmy’! Campbell be
elected governor of Obio this fall.
Liberty's Bell.
The move of certain gentlemen in
Philadelphia to prevent the removal of
the old Liberty bell to the Atlanta ex-
position is not regarded with favor
there. Among citizens generally who
have expressed an opinion in the matter
the attempt to enjoin Mayor Warwick
and councils is criticised as a presumpt-
uous thing on the part af complainants.
A leading evening paper of Philadel-
phia says: ‘There was no more effec-
tive lesson for the nations of the earth
at the World’s fair than the bell which
rang out in clarion tones the action of
the Continental congress, and the peo-
ple of the south should be permitted to
look upon the historie relic. * * *
* * *% Jt would bea good thing if
this herald of liberty could be taken
from ocean to ocean and from north to
south teaching the people the lesson of
patriotism and love of country, lessons
which are sadly needed in some sections
and which the precious heritage of the
men of ’76 might inculcate more effec-
tively than a thousand eloquent voices.’
It would be better to withdraw the bill
of complaint und allow the bell to go to
the Southland without objection.
Explosion and Fire.
Siz Killed and Eighteen Terribly Burned at
Braddock Tuesday Morning.
By an explosion and fire last week
at the Carnegie Steel Company's
furnaces, located at Braddock, six
Poles and Hungarians were killed and
eighteen others terribly burned.
——The desperados in Diamond Val-
leys, Oregon, who have just murdered
fifteen Bannock Indians, including two
women, should be arrested and suitably
punished. Their leader, who tells a
cock and bull story about wanting to
avenge the death of his father who was
killed by Indians as long ago as 1878,
ought to be hanged, and he will be if
the people of the county which his
crime has disgraced, have any sense of
justice.
STAIR.
—— Whether he wins or loses Ex-
Goverfior Campbell will have the as-
surance that most people in Ohio, of
both parties, love and respect him. It
is worth being defeated to get such a
nomination as was tendered to him.
Pennsylvania Game Laws,
The Pennsylvania game laws, revised
to date, are as follows :
Elk and deer, October 1 to December
15, Spotted fawns, hounding and kill-
ing deer in water prohibited. Dogs
pursuing elk or deer may be killed by
any person, and the owners of dogs that
habitually run elk or deer are liable to
prosecution.
Squirrels, September 1 to January 1 ,
ferrets prohibited.
Wild turkeys, October 15 to Janu-
aryl
Plovers, July 15 to January 1.
Woodcocks, July 4 to January 1.
Quails, November 1 to December 15.
Ruffed grouse (pheasants), October 1
to January 1.
Rails or reedbirds, September 1 to
December 1. SN
Wild fowl, September 1to May 1.
Netting, trapping and snaring, hunting
web-footed fowl with any steam or sail
boat or craft prohibited. Shoulder guns
, only allowed. Pigeon nesting protect-
"ed within a radius of one mile, and dis-
turbance in any manner during nesting-
season prohibited. Sunday and night
shooting and artificial lights prohibted.
} Salmon or grilse, March 1 to August
15 ; under three pounds protected.
Speckled trout, April 15 to July 15 ;
under five inches protected.
Laka trout, January 1 to October 1.
Black bass and wall-eyed pike, May
30 to January 1. Black bass under nine
inches protected.
Green, yellow, willow rock, Lake
Erie and grass bass, June 1.to January
1; under six inches protected.
Pike and pickeral, June 1 to Janu-
ary 1.
Carp, September 1 to May 1. Artifi-
cially streams protected for three years
after stocking.
The Wonderful Effect of Humor.
“You don’t look well at all, old
man,” said Inkleigh to Pushpen.
“I don’t wonder at it,”’ was the re-
ply. I dread to go to bed. I not only
.cannot go to sleep, but when I lie
awake I get blue and have the most
horrible thought.”
“That’s too bad,” commented Ink-
leigh commiseratingly. “I'll tell you
what. You take this book. It is my
latest lot of short, humorous stories.
Just published. You just read them
while you lie awake. They'll keep
you from feeling blue and down heart-
ed at any rate.”
A week later Inkleigh felt himself
warmly grasped by the hand. He
turned and saw it was Pushpen.
“A thousand thanks, old chap,”
said the latter, working his friend’s
arm like a sugar chopper.
“What's the matter ?”
“That book.”
“Oh, yes. I remember. Those tun-
ny stories of mine. So they kept you
from feeling blue when you could not
sleep ?"’
“Blue ?"’ replied Pushpen, recom-
menciog the chopping process. “I
never slept better in my life !”— New
York World.
China Brought to Time.
Forcigners Are Now Allowed to Attend the In-
vestigation of the Missionary Massacres—Six
Natives Convicled of Murder
Foo Crow, China, Aug. 25.—China
has come to terms relative to the in-
vestigation into the recent attacks up-
on missionaries, as foreigners are now
allowed to be present at the trials of
natives implicated in the outrages.
Six of those charged with- taking part
in the Hwasang massacre have been
convicted of murder, and fresh arrests
are being made.
Sax Francieco, Aug. 25.—~Late ad-
vices from Tokio brought by the
steamer Peru which arrived bere yester-
day say the massacre of missionaries at
Kucheng was the result of a con-
spiracy of vice-roys against foreign
residents, led by the deposed Vice¥oy
Lin Ping Chang.
Loxpon, Aug. 25.—-It is reported
that the Marquis of Salisbury has de-
termined on decisive action, and that
the British fleet will occupy two
Chinese ports and land marines to en-
force Great Britain's demands relative
to the investigation of the recent mas-
sacres.
——Mre. Nancy Barnum, widow of
Phineas Baraum, the great ehowman,
was recently married in New York to
Dimitri Kallias Bey, a Greek in the
gervice of the Turkish Government.
The Greek, who will take his bride to
his estate on the island of Mitylene to
live is very wealthy, and Mrs. Bar-
num bas something like a half mil-
lion of her own. They were wedded
by a Greek priest Agathpdoros Papa-
georgoyoulog, and if he ties a knot as
twisiy as his name, tho pair will prob-
ably stay married. .
——Li Hung Chang, worth $500,
000,000; John D. Rockefeller, $180,
000,000 ; Duke of Westminister, $100,
000,000; Col. North, $100,000,000,
Cornelius Vanderbilt, $100,J00,000,
and Wah Qua, $100,000,000 is the
way a newspaper sums up the sixth
wealthiest men in the world. The
Rothschilds are omitted because the
wealth of that family, though enor-
mous, is held in common and no one
member can be ranked with the bil-
lionaires, as it were.
—— Professor — What constitutes
burglary ? Student—There must be a
breaking. Professor—Then if a man
enters your door and takes a ten dollar
bill from your vest pocket in the hall,
would that be burglary ? Student—
Yes, gir, because that would break
me.
Cholera’s Awful Disease.
Ten Thousand People Slain by the Dread Disease.
Since the outbreak of cholera in
Japan there have been 25,000 cases and
16,000 deaths.
——1If you want printing of any dis-
cription the WarcrMAN office is the
' place to have it done.
For and About Women .
The styles worn in autumn gowns,
says Harper's Bazar, are those of the
late summer. Novelties appear in win-
ter, when they are required for evening
dresses. calling costumes, and the vari-
ous elaborate functions of life in large
cities. y
The first dresses of warmer stufts will
have double-breasted waists, basques or
jackets, worn with inside plastrons of
rich material and color. Blouse fronts
and box-pleats will not be abandoned.
The drooping blouse effect is so gener-
ally liked for the round waists of sum-
mer that 1t has spread to summer jack-
ets as well, which are now made slight-
ly loose and belted to droop, much in °
the fashion of the belted basque of long
ago. There are two ways of cutting
these jackets, one with open front, the
belt passing under it from the sides and
disclosing a blouse front of silk beneath.
The other plan laps the fronts, making
them double-breasted, and letting them
droop slightly at the belt-line, where
they are’ fastened by four buttons, two
.in a row, and these are usually showy
buttons of cut steele or miniatures, or of
the dress material framed in a ring of
gilt or silver.
A graceful fichu drapery will be
the trimming of new demi-season gowns
and many predict that it will supersede
the blouse. “It cannot fail to be popu-
lar, as it is becoming alike to small and
large women. For those who are too
slight it can be made to apparently in-
crease the size, and it can also be ar-
ranged to produce the opposite effect.
On woolen dresses it will be made of
chameleon silks, of satin or the soft
miroir velvet. On silk dresses there
will be dear little Marie Antoinette
capes of chigon and of many new gauz-
es.
The Society for the Protection of
Birds ot England is rejoicing that at
last a reaction has come against the uni-
versal use of birds’ feathers on hats and
bonnets. When the London season
opened in May, every woman wore a
graceful spray of soft, fine, plumes, with
drooping or curly tips. These bird of
paradise feathers were in quantities at
every milliner’s. Mixed in the same
spray were delicate osprey tips, which
had long been in fashion. During the
season one warehouse of the many en-
gaged in the traffic disposed of 60,000
dozens of these mixed sprays. They
are now disappearing, but perhaps be-
cause it is announced that the supply of
birds is almost exhausted.
Mrs. Cleveland's fad is amateur pho-
tography and she has in her possession
many snap shots at the members of her
| household:
To put the foot down prettily is to
walk gracefully, to seem to have a pret-
ty foot whether it is really pretty or not
to secure a stylish carriage, to make the
skirts hang well and the waist seem
long, to—well, to put the foot down
well is to secure many of the blessings
of life. Don’t believe it when you are
told to put the toe down first. The
foot should be so lightly poised on the
ankle that when the lift from the hip is
made in taking a step the foot naturally
swings, toe down, so that the forward”
part of the foot touches the ground first.
“That is very different in effect from stif-
fly pointing the toe down and trying to
walk that way. Put the feet down so
that the heels would keep very close on
an imaginary chalk line, the toes al-
ways falling a little outsike of the line.
The full weight of the body should be
on the foot that is on the ground, and
one ought to be able to balance prettily
at any moment on the single foot that is
supposed to be carrying the walker’s
weight. If his can be done, it is proof
that the body is well poised and well
carried.
It is of course nice to have a springy
step. The girls in the books. usually
bave it, and the nice young hero al-
ways has that sort. But, no matter
how springy the step is, if the foot is
put down properly the head will be car-
ried along a perfectlv level line and not
go bobbing up and down like a ship in
a high sea. If the heels follow a line
and the toes fall outside the line alittle
then the body will advance without any
ride pwinging of the shoulders. This
ning of the body first to the right
and then to the left is a general fault of
the walking. of American women, and
if the foot is ‘put—down properly this
awkwardness will be avoided.
Paris dressmakers are concerning
themselves principally with the sleeves
and skirts of the future. The large
sleeve. will die hard, and in Paris they
suggest, instead of a single balloon puff,
a series of puffs—four, five or six—
placed at slight distances apart around
a tightly fitted sleeve. This is in the
nature of a compromise, as the upper
puff is around the armhole, and gives
the broad effect now in favor. The
Parisienne who adopts Marie Antoin-
ette styles accept the close-topped
sleeve with a small puff at the elbow
and a flowing ruffle around the wrist.
But in all the Louis XVI gowns sends
to this country he uses the puffed sleeve
of to-day, but in moderation, that the
anchronism may not be too conspicuous.
The full skirt will continue arother
season, but with variations. Tablier
breadths, panels and flounces are talked
of instead of the plain skirt now in fa-
vor.
. That a few drops of the tincture of
benzine into the water in which the
face is bathed will prevent the shiny ap-
pearance of the skin with which so
many persons are affected, especially in
warm weather. That a severe paroxy-
ism of coughing may often be arrested
by a tablespoonful of glycerine in a
wine glass of hot milk.
As the season advances buttons can
not be ignored ; they are appearing on
plain and elaborate costumes from for-
eign and domestic dressmakers.
‘What is another sure sign of their re-
vival is the fact of customers once more
gathering around the button counter
that has been ¢f late seasons a deserted
corner.
To be sure, the sales are limited to
three, four, six etc., but that is an en-
couraging beginning, and the amount
is the same as though two dozen cheap
buttons were taken.