( JULES. | Bellefonte, Pa., May 10, 1895. THE TOME OF VOICE. 1t is not so much what you say, As the manner in which you say it; It is not so much the language you use, As the tones in which you convey it. “Come here!” I sharply said, And the baby cowered and wept; “Come here !” I cooed, and he looked and smiled, And straight to ay lap he crept. The words may be mild and fair And the tones may pierce like a dart ; The words may be soft as a summer air, And the tones may break the heart. Few words but come from the mind, _ And grow by study and ari; But the tones leap forth from the inner self And reveal the state of the heart. Whether you know itor not, Whether you mean or care, Gentleness, kindness, love and hate, Envy and anger are there. Then would you quarrels avoid. And in peace aed love rejoice, Keep anger not only out of your words, But keep it out of your voice. — Youth's Companion. ———— THE WIT OF MAN. Or One Fellow's Testimony ota Platonic Friend- shipe I met her at a garden party, not a joyous gathering of tennis players and girls laughing to the sun, but the gloomy affair of the morbidly select. In bright red she blossomed with all the sweets of a woman magically fem: inine. Her crisp, black hair seemed ready to fly out against conventionali- ties, against hats, particularly, and her brown eyes were golden with the joy of life ; wit hadjchiselled her features, so excellently irregular in the round- ness of their curves, to pointed nose and chin. I could not but enjoy, as a relief from all the elaborate an- gles of her stiff surroundings, the rap- id undulations of her lithe figure, her expressive arms, her dancing little feet, as she sat there, a wild |gypsy, fash- ionable and polished, but still untamed by society. Pouting like some play- ful child over lessons, her mouth rigid- ly set against the flickering dimples of irrepressible laughter, she listened to the pompous old Duc de Retz, or an- swered his wise centence at random, with a wave of her hand. “Who is she?’ I inquired of M. Pimodan de St. Ouen, a walking edi- tion of “Le Tout Parie,” tightly bound in frock coat. “Why, that is la belle Comtesse de Crequy de Canaples; a widow, mon cher, young, rich. If you admire her, here's your chance. The Duke is dy- ing to talk politics with the Dowager de Baudricourt. Forward, to the res- cue!” And M. Pimodan emitted that short, dry note which serves him as laugh or cough, while I stepped up to M. de Retz, who gracefully introduced me. “Dear cousin! Mr, Castlehigh— Comtesse de Canaples.” And he retired as Mme. de Cana- ples smiled up at me with her humor- ous eyes. Her voice was fluently musi cal as she gaily said: “We are not quite strangers, for I have met your charming sister at the Plot-Chandieus.” Before I could frame ajcompliment, she suddenly added: “Do you love her?” “Who?” “Your sister, of course. I like every man to love his sister.” “Well, I hope I do.” “You only hope! Are you an Eng lishman 2?" “More or less.” “Tess, decidedly less. An English- man with blue eyes like yours, should not only be honest and brave, but sure, gure of everything. Don’t you see. Don’t you understand what strength, what manliness there is in being ab- solutely sure, even if you are quite wrong? It is healthy ; everything strong and abeolute is healthy. What are you, then?" “Well, a cosmopolitan.” “Ab, bah!” she exclaimed with a toss of her diminutive head. as she sur- veyed me good-humoredly. ‘And that means that you are not interested in anything but the surface of things; that your sentiments are paradoxes; that your aspirations go no higher than alift will carry you ; that your feelings, philosophy, life, love, lounge in a men- tal Hotel Metropole and never work at home. Have you no preference for any country ?" “I think I prefer France.” “For shame; you a Castlehigh, you whose very name seems rooted in Sax- on soil! Ah,” she added, with another of her kindly smiles, “I see it all ; you think to flatter. But why ebould you not epeak the truth ? I adore the truth! You cannot possibly love anything better than your birth-place, your family, your home! 1 laughed. saying: “You see, my mother was French.” She seized my hand and shook it irankly as she exclaimed: “Then you really did love your mother? You love her country? 'Tis well! All human greatoess of man is in his devotion to his mother. France then seems to en- fold you in her arms the very air caresses, soothes and nurses you! But nevertheless, you are an Englishman. This mixing of races and names breaks araditions of bereditary faith. Man must be steadfast, Only a woman may capriciously adopt and passionately “Never!” “But I feel fiattered.” “You should feel ashamed then, as flattery commences where truth ceases. Are you not clever, are you not brave?” “T don’t think so.” “Well, at any rate, you have enough false modesty to please most people of the world.” I blushed. “Have I hurt your feelings?” she said, with her hand on my arm, in soft, gentle tones. “Iam so sorry! I only wished to spur you out of this nonchalant attitude. I am sure ’tis only a pose; that you reaily have ideals. Come, now, don’t let me do you an injustice; I hate misunder- standings. Admit it, you are a work- er, not simply a walking gentleman ; you have something beneath the crown of your hat. What do you do; tell me?’ And she leaned forward, her eyes intent on mine. “Well, I write a little poetry,” I stammered. Her eyes sparkled, her lips smiled, she clapped her hands in delight, ex- claiming in a musical voice. “You love your mother and you are a poet ! I know your English eyes expressed ideals, strength and health. Poets may be cosmopolitans; indeed, their home is in all nations’ hearts. Have you published ? Not yet? Oh, then do bring your manuscripts to my house; could you come to-morrow, Tuesday? Yes? How good of you, when every moment may be precious gold. Thank you, and au revoir.” And as I held that small hand in mine I felt that I had made a friend. When I called next day Mme. de Canaples was in her boudoir. She listened to my reading, silently, atten tively, almost, it seemed, reverently, and when I left the house after dinner, I felt very great. The next morning we met in the Bois and rode together ; the same night we danced a cotillon at Mme. de Plot-Chandieu’s Fate seemed determined to make us meet, and, per- haps, we helped her. If a man and woman see much of each other, they invariably talk of themselves, wax sentimental by waltz music and imagine themselves in love after supper. But I am tired of flirta- tions, sick of telling a woman whom I only admire that I love her. So, one evening, as we discussed sentiment over pate-de-foie-gras, I told her how much I regretted that two great minds should glavishly follow the example of the stupid. She agreed. “If we remain on our present footing one of us may fall'in love.” She opened her innocent eyes, smiling, “Yes,” I continued, ‘in love; what else can happen? Where as, it we go off somewhere together and live naturally, unconstrained by the world, we shall know ourselves truly and enjoy a few days of rest.” “Oh, the wit of man!” she cried, gayly clapping her hands, her whole face beaming with delight, The next evening we started by rail for Fontainebleau. Soon we were both fast asleep, only to wake at our desti- nation. She took a room at one hotel, I at another. The next day we drove in the forest, silently watching the roy- al trees, till our eyes grew tired and we fell asleep. We stayed there a fort- night, driving, sleeping, barely saving a word, and yet quite happy. When we were back in Paris she asked : “And why did we go to Fon- tainebleau for that?” “Because,” I replied, at Fontaine: bleau we kept regular hours, allowed ourselves no cerebral excitement, drank no champagne, heard no one whisper, ‘Little Castlehigh is awfully in love with Mme. de Canaples, or ‘The Countess is decidedly sweet on ce cher garcon I" I have simply proved, dear lady, that society was forcing us, with its champagne and talk, to think of each other, whereas nature lettus to follow our own individual and separate thoughts. Oh, that fortnight in Fon- tainebleau! We scarcely spoke twice a day. Silence is repose, and repose is bliss. To think that we might have been vulgar lovers! A few more days Paris. and my fate, at least, was seal- ed. But I understood the dangers of our situation. Could anything be more paradoxical and modern than our elopement to Fontainebleau? Carry off 2 woman mysteriously at night two hours by rail to a strange town, remain there a fortnight en tete-a-tete! And all that not to become lovers, but, on the contrary, to escape the necessary, the historical developmentof a situa- without issue. Don’t you think that our late adventure gives us incontest- able superiority over the greatest wits of our age ?”’ She seized both my hands and fixed my eyes. It wasa rapid, searching, wondrous look ; only her irregular and mobile face could have such expres- sion; and for half a second she seem- ed to tear open my soul, take a peep, at it all and shut it up. Then she sat down on a sofa and gazed meditatively at me. Humor and disappointment were blended in her dimpled smile. She crossed her arms nodded her head, examined her little feet slowly one af- ter the other, and sighed, “The wit of man!” She shrugged her shoulders most charmingly, as she reiterated, each time with a quite new and singu- lar intonation, “The wit of man, the wit of man!” Most people would have been put out by the obvious double meaning of this remark, but I am a psychologist ; in fact, I pride myselt not a little on tollow ber love across the seas, may be irresponsible, except to God, herself | and her husband. Man must be the | rock to which we cling. He is our! country, our name, our heart. Re-| member that song of your people : ! In apite of all temptations To belong to other nations He remains an Englishman. How nice of him! You know there | are temptations, for England means | duty=—but I am preaching, excuse me! You have such a real honest, British | face that I cannot help feeling disap- | pointed at finding you a mere cosmo- politan. Go back to England. There | is the place for the clever and the brave.” “You flatter |" my penetration. I understand that she smiled at my wit, compared me to | others, and sighed as she regretfully reflected how few men are really capa- ble of such subtle conduct with women. ! They are few, indeed ! Then she buried her face in her hands to think. And with equal un- expectedness, came softly to me and kissed my cheek. “Thank you,” she said, in a strangely far-off voice; “though a youth, you are a great phil- | osopher. Henceforth we are friends ; we will never allow society to make us | pose one to the other, but meet some- times and rest together.” She tripped away out of the room. But the door suddenly reopened and she leaned forward, offering her ex- | quisite figure to my view like a bou- | quet, as she smiled with her sweet red lips. “The wit of man, ha! ha!” she laughed as she ran down the stairs. i Nearly every day Mme. de Canaples comes to sit in my study. Her work basket and favorite books are in a cor- ner : even when absent the atmosphere of her pervades the room like a spirit and soothes me. We are usually quite silent, as she did when I first read my poems to her, and the flicker- ing gold in her brown eyes seems to light my memory and color my expres sion. The other day she said: “I know exactly the position which I oc- cupy between your books and cigar ettes.” Her tone was somewhat bitter. But I proved to her that she is my most precious friend ; for she never bores me, following all my moods and indulging them in a manner most sur- prising when I think of it. Really I am so thankful that for once I resisted the temptation of flirting. Love would have spoiled our friendship, as it does everything. Even Mm. de Canaples torments her lover. For she is going to marry Jacques de Chan- dieu ; at least she tells me so, But on this subject she lavishes all the caprice and childishness which friendship seems to have drowned in her with me. Sometimes she speaks passsion- ately of le beau Jacques, who is a dashing officer of Chasseurs, somewhat brainless, very handsome and quite spoiled by Mme. de Plot-Chandieu. At other times Mme. de Canaples says that she hates him ; and her sudden reversions of feeling are really begin- ning to torment him into a man of thought. He obeys| her like a faithful dog ; she snubs him, as a woman does a man who loves her. Whereas with me she is unfailing in her gentle con- sideration, ceaseless in her delicate at- tentions. And the moral of all this is : If you like a woman don’t make love to her ; if you love her don’t marry her. I told her the other day, she blushed and laughed till the tears rolled down ber cheeks, saying as usual. “The wit of man!” as she wiped her eyes and composed herself back to the let- ter which I was dictating to my Lon- don tailor, But I do wish she would marry Jacques and be done with it. Her ca- pricious treatment of him and appeals to my sympathy are rather teasing. She always wants to know what I think. Now that is just what I don’t do when she is by me; I then simply take repose in her society from all mental exertion. It has become a habit, and these constant demands on my reasoning faculties, though flatter- ing bore me. Can no woman ever leave well alone ? When she came in this afternoon, I saw by the way she hovered about my chair before sitting down, that some- thing was on her mind. She wore a red dress very like that which she had on the day I first met her at Mme de Retz's garden party. She struck me as prettier than ever, and her charm ing figure was a joy to my eyes as she lay on the sota or leaned over to read my last poem. There is about her something suavely womanly which acts like a charm on a man. She has that fragrance of body and soul which makes me feel as though life is really worth living when she is at my side. “I am decided to marry Jacques,” she said as she poured me out a cup of tea. “At last! Allow me to congratu- late you,” I remarked with a vast as- sumption of interest. “No! Iam very miserable,” she sighed as she passed me the cup. “Why 7”? “Because I don’t love him enough.” “Why marry him, then 2” “Because, because I am lonely, Reg- inald!” and her expression was pite- ous as she repeated, “Oh, so lonely!” “Did you love Monsieur de Cana- ples?” “No ; I was too young.” “Have you ever loved any one?” I inquired airily, after a pause. She jumped to her feet like a siart- led deer and counfrzged me with burn- ing eyes. “Yes,” she said fiercely. “Yes Lid : “Was he married !"” She shook her head. “Dead 7?" “No.” “Why don’t you take him then ?” She slowly answered with downcast eyes : “He doesn’t love me.” ‘Are you sure ?" She looked up at me. said. “I am quite sure.” “Well, then, try and make him.” “I have !"” she retorted sharply. “Without success? You astonish me! I was only just thinking how fascinating vou are.” She blushed. “There is something about you which particularly appeals to man. We are allsuch vain creatures that any woman, particularly you, with a few smiles might reduce the most indifferent of us to a desperate condition.” She ghrugged her shoulders. - “Have you tried everything with him ?” She turned on me curiously- ‘Now really what do you suppose I have been doing? Does a woman ever give up anything but a losing game?” She laughed a trifle sardonically and re- peated wearily, as she let herself fall back on the sofa. “Yes, I have tried everything, Reginald dear, every- thing!” | “You have even told him you love him ?" | “Certainly not.” { Try that | “But,” she answered, turning round i on me, “I have insinuated it. And if i he won't see it, 'tis because he can’t love me, and doesn't wish to trifle with | my affections by raisiug false hopes.” | “A rare gentleman, if such is the | case.” “You approve of him then ?” “Don’t we agree in everything?’ “Yes,” she answered sadly. And . then she began to cry like a child, vio- ' lent, hot tears of rage and grief. My whole soul swelled to sympathy. T “Yes!” she Perhaps I am a little in love with her; at least I thought so at the time ; but then I know women’s sensitiveness too well to allow my love to burst on their unhappiness. Perhaps my kisses were a trifle passionate, for she turaed pale and pushed me away, her eyes brilliant and gigantic, as she looked at me astonished, “Don’t, please don’t, Reginald! she pleaded. “I beg your pardon.” and I continued eloquently. “I wish that man was not such a fool. If he only knew what a fine creature you are ; if he only understood you as I do! Tell me his name ? I will become his most intimate friend for your sake, And you know between men, we have go many means of conveying an im- pression, exciting a curiosity about some woman. I am sure that I could make him fall in love with you, my dear, without his guessing that I even knew you, except as a casual acquaint ance.’ With both hands upraised to the ceiling she laughed outright, as she flung herself out of the room, exclaim: ing in a voice that I shall remember to my dying day : “The stupidity of man !" : I am afraid that her verdict on my gex is just, though I may flatter my- gelf that there are a few exceptions— Mec Millan's Magazine. She smiled Markets in Jamaica. Mrs. Julian Hawthorne's Experience in Bar- gaining for Yams. Curious Systems of Tra- ding— Mangoes, Plantains and Tropical Fruits Spread in Great Heaps. Scenes of Brightness and Beauty. Every Saturday at 9 in the morning two horses hitched to a covered buggy are brought to our door. Big baskets are crowded in behind and a small bag containing a handful of small (very small) change hangs at my belt. A large sun umbrella and a wrap are put in, and off we go followed by shouts from the children hanging over the veranda rail to remember the cakes, the candy, theslate pencils or the tennis shoes they have been wanting since last last week. The market house proper is a large roof on pillars, rising from a high stone foundation , in ranks on its cement floor are the booths or stalls where meat bread, ginger ale and the like are on sale. This covered place is seldom crowded, but adjoining it on the right is a walled inclosure for the accommo- dation of ‘‘bread-kind,” the name given to yams, potatoes, fruits, and all green stuff. We ure the only white folks who come to market. The others send servants, but we like the drive and the humors of the scene. The ‘‘quality’’ in Jamaica will do nothing for themselves that they can get done for them. Needing nothing in the “house,” we pass through, with a glance at the gin- ger bread, the pretty white bread loaves and the various dough preparations, some of which we know by experience to be not half bad. Now we emerge from the cool shadow into the ardent sunshine of the outer enclosure. A BEWILDERING PLACE. This is as bewildering a place as ever mortal stepped into. Crowds of women in bright pink dresses, the effect of which at a little distance is white in the sunlight, many children and a few men, throng the space till movement becomes difficult. A policeman, with a smiling black face and spotless white jacket, stands about wherever he can find room. Here and there a donkey is being drawn through the press by its owner, two heavily loaded panniers on its stout lit- tle back. Everybody is chatting in a high key, laughing, pushing, gesticula- ting ; many of the women bear on their heads huge wooden trays heaped with produce for sale or just purchased. Out of sight until you stumble over them are the venders squatting on the ground amidst heaps of yams, sweet potatoes, plantains, cocos, cocoanuts, chochos, cabbages and such fruits as are in season, mangoes, genips, cheri- moyas, oranges, pomegranates, sweet- sops, bananas. he yams are great dark brown roots eight inches in di- ameter and two or three feet long ; the hairy cocos are also dark brown roots, but more like sweet potatoes. These are usually sold by men. The chocho is a pretty vegetable of light green or cream white hue, as big as two fists. pear-shaped, but ribbed like a musk- melon and hairy. They are of the squash and cucumber family, and taste like vegetable marrow. DISTINGUISHED BY INSTINCT. Plantains are larger than the average | banana and of slightly different tinge of yellow ; but so much like them in ap- pearance that you know the two apart rather by instinct than specification. Plantains cannot be eaten raw like bananas, but are firmer and better than the latter when cooked. They cost five times what bananas do, and are rather scarce here ; we usually buy out the whole supply in the market; and all the eggs go into our basket also. Heaps of mangoes, brilliant yellow red end green, are here ; small, but ex- cellent pineapples, genips — small branches tipped with a round green fruit with a skin that cracks when you bite it and comes off revealing a soft, orange- colored pulk clinging to & large stone, and tasting something like grapes. Otaheite apples, pear-shaped. bright yellow and red with a clear, white pulp, crisp, sweet and delicious ; ackees, used as a vegetable, also bright red and yellow, opening on the tree to show the big, black seed within, which is poisonous. Salt fish and ackees are a favorite dish with the peasantry. BARGAINING FOR YAMS, We examine critically the piles of yam, select the best, and say to the dealer, “Three shillings’ worth —make them up.” is to make them up 1n shilling piles, four or five pieces, according to size, in a heap. This having been done, we re- gard the heaps disapprovingly, pick out The phrase means that he | goes, genips or chochos ; the price is constant—only the quantity varies. Another measure of price is the gill— three farthings, and you have to make your own additions : “That's a quatty |! and a gill, Missy,” and, there being no such coins, you pay two pence farthing. | Six pence and a quatty is, of course, | seven pence ha’ penny. A bit’ is | another imaginary coin, and represents four pence ha’ penny ; while a ‘tup” means not two pence but two gills. No coin larger than a shilling is ever seen in the market, and change is hard to find. HONEY SOLD IN BOTTLES. Honey is for sale in bottles ; beeswax in flat, round cakes a pound in weight. Raw brown sugar is brought in tin oil cans which are also in use all over the island for carrying water. Cocao, made up in sticks, and called chocolate, sells at a quatty a stick ; it is oily, and flav- | ored with cinnamon. Cocoanut oil for cooking is sold in bottles, Green cocoa- nuts are always in market, and men and women are grouped around the vender, who, with his machete, strikes a slice off the top, leaying a hole, to which the buyer’s lips glue themselves. Hard co- coanuts, such as we are familiar with in the States, are used only for grating and oil making. But it ic time to go home. The horses are watered, and the horse-boy fed, our market woman gets her six pence, our purchases are loaded into the buggy, and we set off up the long hill in the brilliant sunshine. Looking back and down upon the market as we draw away, we see a seething, gay-colored mass of women, donkeys, vegetables, fruits, spread out in the sunshine, and shadow ; and the laughter, the buzz, and the shrill cries follow our ears in the soft diapason as we surmount the rise and trundle eastward. MRs. JULIAN HAWTHORNE. The State's Crops. Secretary Edge Reports Upon the Condition of Wheat and Grass. Secretary Edge, of the department of agriculture, has received reports in re- lation to the crops of 1895, which war- rant the following : “Wheat—Winter wheat has come through the winter shortin leaf and stalk, but with plenty of roots to en- sure 8 good crop with favorable weath- er; the east sides of fences running north and south, especially in the southeastern part of the state, show the bad effects of heavy drifts which accumulated there during the blizzard, and in many cases the grain has been emotbered out entirely giving that por- tion of the fields a spotted appearance. In low, wet places and on fields hav- ing & bad natural drainage the melted snow, by running into the low places and freezing there, has killed the wheat and made a cut in the yield of the crop. The acreage is slightly de- creased ; the larger portion of this de- crease is due to the low price of the grain. In many localities where wheat is sown twice in succession a portion of one of the fields has been reserved for corn or other spring crops, and a portion of this area will be devoted to ensilage and fodder corn, with which to bridge over a season similar to that of 1894. “Mowing fields—Owing to the ab- gence of the usual amount of thawing and freezing during the past winter the wheat stubbles of 1894 have come through in very good condition, and there is every probability that with fair growing weather before harvest an excellent swath of clover hay will be cut, which, taking the State as a whole will probably be above the average. Mowing fields which were cut over the first time last year will not yield their usual percentage of clover, it having from some unexplained cause been killed beyond the usual extent. “Farm work—Farm work of all kinds, except fencing and stone-pick- ing, is in a backward condition. The cold condition of the soil and the back- wardness of the season have deterred many who are usually noted for early seeding from planting. On low ground much of the oats is yet unsown, and unless we have a season of more than average growth will probably be short in the straw. “The indications are that more than the average acreage of potatoes will be planted and some of our prophets are already predicting low prices for this crop.” EG I STU TRB The President’s Sister. How She Did a Kindness to the Tired Sales- woman. Several years ago, says the Chicago Tribune, a lady entered one of the large dry goods stores in Washington, and the tired saleswoman coming forward to wait on her, involuntarily said : “Qh, the violets !” The lady who bad forgotten she was | wearing a bunch of the spring’s beau- | ties, as~ she took them off and handed them across the counter, said : “Yes, did you know they are in bloom in the park ?”’ The other woman’s eyes filled with tears as she said * «Q, I never see the park now. Iam too tired when Sunday comes to go out there.” | said, “I will an inferior piece that he bas slipped in, | and replace it by a better, shake our head and look discontented ; he adds another piece, perhaps, and finally, af- ter much hesitation, we take or reject | the bargain as the case may be. Every thing is bought in this way, though yams are only sold by the shilling’s worth. took her hands and softly kissed them. ny) is the usual price of a pile of man- | | “But you surely can go some half- holiday.” “Perhaps, and I thank you so much for these.” As she was leaving, after making her purchases, the lady said : “If TI call for you Saturday afternoon can you drive out to the park with me?’ Then seeing the gladness in the other's eyes, without waiting for an answer, be here at 1 o'clock for you,” and handing her card, left the store. As she passed through the door the saleswoman looked at the card in her hand—it was the presidents sister. ETS Willie's Joke. “Just see that baby little iron car in his mouth. you suppose he thinks it is?” visitor. “Guess he’s putting that What do heard it's a chew-chew | car,” said Willie. A quatty (8 penny—ha’ pen- A ——T———— i | | 4 1 | | For and About Women. There are now two women acting as School Inspectors in New York, and Mavor Strong is so satisfied with their work that he will not be unwilling to increase the number. Women who sleep a great deal and comfortably, who are addicted to cat naps and regarded nine hours of whole- some rest as absolutely requisite of their physical well-being are the women who defy the frosting hand of time. These are the women whose wrinkles are few | and far between, and whose eyes remain | the brightest and cheeks the rosiest for the longest period after the bloom of youth has fled. No less notable a beauty than Diane de Poictiers, who retained her irresistible loveliness until her 70th year, recognized the value of sleep as a preventive of wrinkles. Indeed, so fearful was she of losing a moment of perfect rest that, mistrusting the beds of her friends, she carried her own with its splendid fittings on all her journeys. Along with the box-pleated style of waist, suspenders and bretelles will again be used on toilets and costumes designed both for young ladies and slender matrons. Some of these are made of the dress goods when of a rich quality, others of embroidered surah, net, etc. On some of the French gowns they are made of corded silk or velvet wrought with fine cut jet. In suspender shape they are of even width their entire length, and black velvet ribbon, plain or edged with a line of jet, is much us- ed for this purpose. A pretty dress of lilac taffeta has a gored skirt very fall in the back. The silk suspenders are embroidered with shaded silk violets, and pass over a fitted blouse waist of cream colored silk, likewise embroidered on collar, front and sleeves. With all the variations in draping of cloth from the shoulder to the elbow, there are really but t wo sleeves now in vogue. One isa puff and the other a leg-o’-mutton. Puffed sleeves admit of more fanciful decoration, and are, therefore. most in favor fur dressy gowns. For tailor built ones nothing but reg- ulation sleeves are allowable; that is, fectly plain, long and tight-fitting over the wrist. A row of small buttons out- lining the inside seam from wrist to el- bow is not unusual, but itis not strict- ly “smart,” Make them as large as cloth and the streets allow above the el- bow, but after reaching that point take in every reef in the sail, fitting them to the arm as you would a glove. One or two women cling to the white linen cuff, but it 1s actually shelved by popular vote, with the exception of those attach- ed to a linen shirt worn undera jack- et. For carriage and afternoon receptions elbow sleeves are in vogue. They are more elaborately trimmed than those for street. In truth therein comes exag- geration of style. Everything that can be consistently placed there, figures on some stylish dress sleeves. Bunches of flowers, loops of ribbon, strips of vel- vet, cascades of lace, jabots of scallops are separately and collectively seen. Don’t make the mistake of using wide extenders. The new sleeves are not proper if they assert themselves on an equality with the shoulder seam, By some order of fashion’s ruling they have been put into a lower scale, and now droop away until their widest ecir- cumference is reached at the elbow. This change does not relieve the owner from luxurious expenditure of money on crinoline, but it brings pon her the du- ty of pulling her sleeves constantly ly down from the shoulder that they may droop in the new style. We have had light waists and black skirts until we are positively tired of them. Now we are to have black waists and light skirts. This later combination is of great advantage to women who are inclined to be a little stout. A perfect- ly fitted black waist is the most becom- ing thing a woman with a full figure can wear ; and with light colored flow- ing draperies, especially with the wide- flaring skirts now approved, costumes of this sort are in every way satisfactory, It is true that a toilette of a light waist and black skirt is bewitching, but then it is growing common and when a fancy reaches that stage it is dropped. Black brocaded silks will be made into skirts to wear with light waists. There is no room for discussion of the point—every woman who goes any- where simply must have a cape. There seems to be some difference of opinion as to the length which is correct. The really chic shape dips slightly back and front, and is quite short on the should ders, describing a perfect curve from- one shoulder to the other. In front and back they reach the waist, and the sides stand out and up so as to show the sleeves and waist of vhe bodice beneath. This is the only style worn by younger woman. Miss Jane Addams, of Hull House, has been appointed one of the garbage inspectors of Chicago. She has devoted her life and means to the moral and material betterment of those too poor and too ignorant to help themselves, and she had done a noble work in a modest; womanly way. The cultivation of manners” should be followed out in all departments of life. First, see that children be taught to be uniformly polite—ceremoniously 8o— whether strangers be present, or they are only en famille. The bays should also be trained to exhibit the same chivalrous deference to, and care of, their sisters, of whatever age, that they show to their mothers. Scrupulous courtesy in speech should be insisted on, and modern slang inno- vations prohibited or discouraged. The good old Saxon housewords, ‘father’ and “mother,” are infinitely to be preferred to boys speaking of the “governor” or girls of the ‘mater.” Gentlemen and ladies say “Thank you.” Vulgar and underbred people cut down the phrase to ¢Thanks.” There are few portions of household training that are more neglected by all classes, except the upper ones, than the education of children in good habits of eating and table etiquette. The latest importations of gowns show very conclusively that the abun- asked the | dance of stiff interlining is going out of fashion, in Paris at least. ——Friend—¢Well, Tommy, now that you have started to school, what ——Cupid is the only genuine opti- | do you like best ?”’ mist. Tommy—*‘‘Recess.”’