HALL, Bellefonte, Pa., March 22, 1895. MY PHILOSOPHY. I allus argy that a man Who does about the best he can Is plenty good enough to suit This lower mundane institute, No matter ef his daily walk Is subject for his neighbor's talk, And critic minds of ev'ry whim Just all get up and go fer him, It’s nachural en ough, I guess, When some gets more and some gets less, Fer them that’s on the slimmest side To claim it ain’t a fair divide, And I’ve knowed some to lay in wait And get up soon and set up late ‘To ketch some fellow they would hate Fer goin at a faster gait. ' The signs is bad when folks commence A findin fault with Providence And balkin ’cause the world don’t shake At ev'ry prancin step they take. No man 1s great till he can see How less than little he would be Ef stripped to self, and stark and bare He hung his sign out everywhere. My doectrin’ is to lay aside Contentions and be satisfied ; Just do your best, and praise or blame That follers that count jest the same. I’ve allus noticed great success Is mixed with trouble, more or less, And it’s the man who does the best That gits more kicks than all the rest. —James Whitcomb Riley. A SUCCESSFUL OPERATION. The Story of a Great Decision and What Came of if, SKETCHED FROM LIFE. As he heard his father talking with the two physicians outside his bed- room door, he waited and wondered. He waited to hear the decision of the consulting physician, while he wonder- ed what this decision would be. If it coincided with that of the attending surgeon an operation would be recom- mended. This operation was a severe pne. At best it necessitated the loss of a leg, while death, too, must be con. sidered as a betwen : He suddenly found himself holding to life with a wonderful determination. It meant so much to him. Indeed, it meant everything to him. With strength and health he had every hope of realizing the high ambition which had helped him through so many of his early trials. All the sufferings of an apprenticeship in the business life of a young man of to-day rushed through bis mind. He smiled sadly as he thought how trivial the many discouragements seemed in compar- ison with the trial of to-day, a trial re- quiring the choosing of two risks, a long suffering illness, with death as its probable reward, or a sharp, decisive contest between vitality and the sur- geon’s knife ; a contest sure to leave him maimed for life, a cripple and un- able to accomplish much that he had planned to do. The choice of these two evils would rest entirely with him. The surgeons might recommend, the members of the family advise, but he knew that the final decision, a decision from which there was no appeal, rested entirely with him. Although he was glad that it was so, the responsibility of this sacrificing of life or limb seemed to crush him, and forgetful of physical suffering in the mental agony he en- dured, he turced his face to the wall. His brain seemed on fire and he found himself considering insanity as one of the probabilities with which he must contend in rendering his decision. He" might have applied to that Higher Power to which he had been referred go often, hut he resented it as he did the advice ofthis sister to give way to his feelings for oneg and havea good cry. He had been brought up with a fear and respect for that High- er power, but he had always consider [# ed it as a help for those who had not sufficient strength of their own on which to rely, and as yet he would not acknowledge his present weakness even to himself. The door opened he looked up ex- pecting to see the serious face of the doctor or the white uniform of the trained nurse of which he had grown so tired. But when he looked up from his bitter reverie the pew disappoint- ment which changed the set look on his face to a sad emile was a happy onds oa _. The door closed again and they were alone, he and a young girl, to him the impersonation of all the good in the world and the reward he wished for, providing his efforts in a business way should be as successful as he hoped and was determined that they should be. The face that looked into he was nota happy one. With the exception of the cheerfully indifferent counte- nace of the trained nurse, the faces which he had seen for many days were each to sympathetic of his own suffer ing too have other than a forced look of happiness. He knew that the girl he had loved with his whole heart and devotion, in which any self-sacrifice was not to be considered, reciprocated his affection. It was not, however, until she had put her arms around his neck and told once again how she loved him that he really knew how much he had learned to rely on her in a time of trial just when it seemed to mean life and strength, and if he was willing to die for her he was also willing to live for her, no matter what the sacrifice of living might entail. And when quietly she told him that the decision reached by the consulting physician coincided perfectly with that of the attending surgeon the sufferer offered no remonstrance of any kind. He simply pressed the hands he held in his a little tighter and smiled. Again she told him how she loved him and comforted him as only one woman in the world could. She even tried to joke about the matter and with a forced attempt at cheerfulness asked what difference anyway, provid. ed he got well. But this seemed al- most sacrilegious and then she offered to devote her entirelife in doing for him all that she could to compensate for the lost limb. She did not refer to the possibility of his death, She simply told him how she had prayed for him, how she would pray for him and how she want- ed him to pray for his recovery and to trust and be confident that ali would come outright. How ‘she was his girl not only for an ornamental wife, of whose accomplishments he could point to his friends with pride, but as a helpmeet through thick and thin. She didn’t care for anything so long as his heart was all right, and of this she never doubted. The she told him how the doctors were agreed that an amputation was the only cure. It did not take him long to decide, and when he was alone again he held in his hand a bunch of violets, his fav- orite flowers, as a token of her love to help and strengthen him, ® * * * It was not until the young man was on the operating table that the sup: posed cancer was found to be only a tumor, and that an amputation was unnecessary. The operation was suc- cessful, but the young man was unable to recover from the large amount of ether administered. It was an hour after this successful operation that the surgeon and consulting physician again coincided in their opinion. This time that death was due to heart fail- ure. A little bunch of violets, withered by the hot air of the operating room, was still tightly clasped in one of the cold hands, and the morning on which he was laid away to rest for the last time, the undertaker found another bunch of violets, so tresh and sweet that the dew on them sparkled even more brightly than the slender ring on the third finger of the hand that held them. Arax 8. RoGERs, TTR Kicking on the Umpire. The Colloquy That Should and the One That Does Take Place, Amoeng the musty rules for the gov- ernment of base ball is one which pro- vides that a player addressing the um- pire must preface his remarks by a re- spectful “Mr. Umpire.” Those patrons of the national game who fondly ima- gine that the rules are enforced have doubtless often seen a captain stride in the direction of the autocrat of the dia- mond with a gleaming 6ye, compressed lips ana clinched hands. The player confronts the umpire who stands calmly chewing gum like a contemplative heifer in a clover patch. The player's lips are seen to move, he gesticulates wildly, and his attitude is that of an avenging Nemesis. Owing to the distance of the two men from the grand stand the spec- tators cannot hear a word, but they as- sume the player's remarks are about like this: “Mr. Umpire, your decision was in- tolerably unjust. Did Mr. Mulcahy possess as many arms as an octopus, and each one as long as the Brooklyn bridge, he could not have touched Mr. Ratigan, who slid like an eel in a tub of butter. That decision deprives us of a run and may eventually result in our defeat. Mr, Umpire, I am loath to believe that you are prejudiced against the Boomtararas, but the trend of your decisions forces me to that conclusion. I assure you that unless you occasionally acknowledge our presence in the field and in the game a protest will be lodged against you.” During the argument the umpire chews gum with the greatest industry, and when the player pauses to take breath the umpire is seen to wave his hand and deliver a few remarks, which the spectators presume are in this strain : “Captain |Gilhooly, your strictures on my judgment are uncalled for. I de- cided Ratigan out because he was not safe. I decline to be intimidated by threatened protests, and I insist that you etire to the bench.” N len the game. goes on, and the spec- tators eae but px X igno- rant of what really passed between the player and umpire. As a matter of tact, Captain. Gilhooly. €poke as fol- lows : Lie “Sa-a-y | You sap headed clown from Crazyville, whut ye tryin to giv ‘us ennyhow ? Take us fer green goods guys? Sa-a-y ! I got a mind to biff ye in the chops! Why, dat man wasn’t out by three feet. Ye giveme a pain, ye do. Sa-a-y ! Know what I'll do to ye? I'll put ye out of de business. Yes, I will. What chance we got for the pennant wid your rank decisions? Sa-a-y! You broke into base ball wid a jimmy, didn’t ye? Now, look here, ye lunk headed lulu, ye put the kibosh on us again and ye’ll git run out of the grounds. For 2 cents I'd soak yer!” Then the umpire responds as follows : “Go jon now! Git over to the bench, you knocker! You can’t bulldoze me, and you won’t git nothin that don’t belong to you, see? Now, go and squat, or I'll put $10 on youl” Captain Gilhooly thereupon slowly returns to the bench, and the specta- tors say, “That’s right, cap, call him down.” —Syracuse Standard. —— A furor 18 prevailing in many states for military drill in the public schools. ~~ The average American comes to the fighting age quick enough without any stimulus of this character. The pretense is made that giving a semi-military character to the schools will have the effect of cultivating pa- triotic sentiment. Prof. Felix Adler, of New York, not only dissents from this idea, but he contends that ‘‘the in- troduction of military exercises is like- ly to heighten the false drama which attaches to the idea ot war in child: ren’'s minds, and which so dazzles them that they do not see the horrors, cruelties and inhumanities which real war brings in its train.” The reason- ableness of this position will be self- evident to all. Prof. Adler's state. | ment constitutes a moral argument | against the drill business not to be | counterbalanced by theoretical gains |! in other directions. ——Dr. Rothrock, the State Forestry Commissioner, says there is in Pennsyl- vania & solid area of almost 1,000 miles square once luxuriant with vegetation which is now so barren that it is almost depopulated. The Flower of Death. It Belongs tothe Cactus Family and Even Its Perfume Is Deadly. In the mountains of Mexico, high up in the most inaccessible passes or buried within the deepest gorges, there grows a strange flower which the na- tives call “The Flower of Death.” From their description of it, the plant must belong to the great cactus family whose name is more than legion in that part of the world, yet it is, how- ‘ever, devoid of thorns, and the heavy succulent leaves exude a viscid fluid which will burn into solid rock like a strong acid. In shape the flower some what resembles two calla lilies placed face to face. Instead of the gracefully tapered point of the lilly, however, the two petals of the flower of death are quite short and thick, presenting the awful appearance of parted livid lips, through which the red pistil protrudes like a horrid bleeding tongue. It is said that this flower gives out an odor 80 penetrating and so intensely disagreeable that buzzards are freqent- ly attracted by it mistaking it for their rightful spoil. Thisof itself is horri- ble to contemplate, and yet the half has not been told, for so noxious is the poison of the flower that no man can smell it and live. In Mexico one hears stories of many au unwary traveler who has come to an untimely death by inhaling the poisonous breath of this curious flower, and the mountain bandits, no doubt, know very well how to have it held accountable for the death of many of their own victims. Another curious but less harmful plant is the milkweed, which abounds in the arid regions of both Texas and Mexico. lt is quite a handsome bush with its parti-colored green and white leaves, the two colors being very deli: cately and gracefully traced the one upon the other, and it is beginning to find its way as an ornamental plant in some of our Eastern gardens and greenhouses. Upon its native heath it grows to quite considerable size, reaching frequently to the height of six or seven feet, and of course shows to the best advantage then, When the stem of this plant is brok- en there flows from it an abundant stream of milk, which is sufficiently strong to burn into the cuticle if it is allowed to touch the flesh, creating an unpleasant smarting sensation. This quality makes the plant pretty much in demand for marking cattle, as the hair is removed wherever the milk is applied and no further harm is done to the animal. Iu this way itis quite a boon to cattlestealers, as an applica: tion can be made with it much easier than with the branding iron and the same purpose is served. It would be impossible to form an estimate of how many cows change hands every year .through the mediation of this plant, yet the number is by no means incon- siderable. ¥ A ——— Thirst Torture. A Man Who Was Lost on a Desert Tells of His Sufferings. ¢No one can conceive the tortures of a man who suffers from real thirst,” said S. R. Jacoby, of Ouray, Col., toa reporter. “I underwent the awful ex- perience once, but can hardly convey a hint of what I suffered, although it is vividly impressed on my mind. There are no worlds in English or Spanish to tell the story and I know no other lan- guages. It was in Wyoming in 1883. ‘With two companions I was doing a little prospecticg and we had bad luck. One morning I made up my mind to try a range of hills about thirty miles away, across what seemed to be a well- .verdured valley, and my chums refus- ing to go farther on what had proved a wild goose chase, said good-bye and started back for Cheyenne. I started miles when I'¢ame to desert land. There was rot a stock of vegetation, in sight. The ground was covered with lava and scoria that had rotten under the suns of a thousand centuries. I never imagined that the desert was more than a few miles across, and as there was a haze hanging over it I went straight ahead. I only had a small canteen, which held brandy instead of water. It was before noon when I began my journey over that weste. Before night my horse had fallen, and I was suffering pangs of agony. I had no brandy left, and everywhere was desolation as dry as chalk. I killed my horse and drank some of his blood. Then I threw my- self down and slept. No opium-eater craving for his drug ever had such hor- rible dreams. They awoke me, and I got up and staggered on in the darkness. All the demons of pain in the universe seemed to have settled themselves right between my shoulder blades and were holding a carnival. Ten thousand million red-hot needles, with rusted sides, were playing in and out through my tongue, and the top of my head felt as if some giant had hold of it and was trying to pull it off, I couldn’t ery out, because my tongue was numb and useless from the pain. ‘When morning came I just beheld the outlines of a wagon in the -distance. With a superhuman effort I gave a shriek, and then I knew no more. When I regained consciousness I was in a bunch of hay near a fire, and two or three men were looking at me. I learned later on that my scream had been heard by a party of prospectors who were skirting the desert in order to make a short cut to the Montana cattle trail, and that at first they thought it was some wild animal, but one of the party insisted on a search, as he had heard a man make just such a noise be- fore he died of thirst in the Mojave desert. It was months before I recov- ered completely, and I haven’t been more than a mile away from water, and plenty of it, since.” - An Honest Tailor Found the Money. John Natren, a tailor yesterday gave to Police Superintendent Henry Muth, of Allegheny, the $1,465 lost on Monday by Mrs. Pauline Lehman, of Millvale. Muth returned it to the woman who gave Natren $100. He found the money in front of a Diamond street saloon and learned of the owner through a German newspaper. off, and hadn’t gone more than five, children under seven years, Politics in the Pulpit. Bishop Andrews, of the Methodist Episcopal church, in addressing the Baltimore conference a few days ago enunciated sound doctrine on the dis- cussion of political and economic poli- cies from the pulpit. He thought that Dr. Parkhurst *‘has been laboring un- der a special call,” and that such calls are no to frequent oceurremce. This is correct, and even Dr. Parkhurst, with the immense amount of good work ho has done, at times has gone to extremes in his enthusiasm that have caused a distinct reaction. The trouble, Bishop Andrews says, is that “there will be a great many weaklings over the country endeavoring to imitate him.” This is already in evidence. And nothing could be more disastrous to the legitimate in- fluence of the clergy in their high call- ing. Suppose the Parkhurst plan of operations from start to finish, includ- ing the detective business, should be- come a rule of ministerial conduct, the churches would soon degenerate into political clubs, antagonizing each other in noisy and profitless debate on the concerns of the every-day world. When ministers undertake the dis- cussion of political and economic ques- tions, the Methodist bishop says, they “ought to be very modest and conver- vative.”” But the reverse is generally the case, for they are aptto speak on such questions in the same ‘by au- thority”’ way they very properly dis- cuss matters of morals and faith. That is the bent of their minds: Within the last year we have read sermons deliver- ed on the tariff, strikes, the relations of capital and labor, as well as the di- plomacy of the government, that were absurdly deficient in common sense and correct knowledge. If the privilege of free debate had been allowed they would have been riddled in a way that would probably have put an end to the intru- sion of such topics in the pulpit. But that was not permissible, and the crude declarations went forth with the sanc- tion of pulpit authority. Some ill-in- tormed people were deceived, but the better informed would naturally leave the house of worship with a very con- temptible opinion of the whole proceed- ing and of the capacity or honesty of the clerical campaigners, There are times when the moralities and purity of society are involved in local administration, and then there is a propriety in the pulpit taking part in advocacy of reform and exposing offi- cial evil-doers, but this is very different from making the pulpit a rostrum to discuss principles of government, ard national or state policies, on which the best of men always have differed and always will differ. But even as to local abuses great caution must be ex» ercised, fof ministers of a class are more easily misled as to essential facts than any other of the learned professions. As Bishop Andrews puts it, their mission is “to build up Christian men’ who can be trusted to settle the questions of politics and government. The Wheat Surplus. According to the market report the surplus of wheat in this country to-day is 79,000,000 bushels. It would be a nice question for those who study so- cial problems how long the surplus would last if the government would seize and operate the lines of traanspor- tation so that it could be laid down at the doors of those who are now practi- cally prohibited from consuming it. Upon the basis of miller’s exchange each bushel of this wheat can be ex- changed for 364 pounds of flour and each pound of flour will produce one and one fourth pounds of bread. The calculation will show that it would produce 4,425,625,000 loaves of bread. If it were all consumed in the form of bread alone each man would consume an average of two loaves of baker's size per day. Taking out of our popu- lation of 60,000,000 one-fourth for there would be left a population of 45,000,- 000 to consume this bread at the rate of two loaves per day, each, or 90,000, 000 loaves per day for the whole. In fitty days or less than two months a good feed on white bread would con- sume it all. In view of this ecalcula- tion, what folly it is to contend that this surplus should demoralize all prices, destroy all values and paralyze all energies ! Froe ——A journal devoted to men’s fashions today tells all about the styles to come with the springtime. For semi-formal attire the cutaway coat will displace the frock, which is still the formal thing, however. In collars the poke, very high in front and pro- trading to the very point of the chin, will be the proper caper. There will be room with a lightly-tied (our-in- hand. Plaid trousers will go with a vicuna cutaway or a plain black frock. The new spring topper is called the “Covert,” and will be rather loose in front and a trifle longer than last sea. son. Colored shirts, with cuffs attach- ed and a white collar, will have up- and-down stripes to be in style. Nar- row four-in-hand ties are just right for close students of style. While all the above foolishness mainly interests the makers of the garments and the dressy fellows who have the price, such changes in cut and cloth also mean that the weaver and the stitcher will not be thrown out of work so long as fashion hasa cinch on its wealthy slaves. Old Glory. General Miles at & dinner party in this city surprised the guests by re- minding them—a fact little popularly known by the way—that the flag of the Union is older than that of any other now used by any other uation. The French tricolor is antedated by [ the stars and stripes a few years, and the British union jack as now flnown came a little later. All other national flags have been modified to their pree- ent unfurling even after that period. Then what bird is older of creation and faller of longevity than the eagle ? It there be any let him scream.—New York Mercury. ——He who trusts to luck will soon - find his own credit gone Coldest Place on Earth, The Air Is so Frosty That it Hurts to Breathe. The word ‘‘Arctic’”’ has been very much in evidence during the cold weath- er of the last few weeks, and perhaps there are those who imagine that it could hardly be colder at the North Pole than it has been in England late- ly. To them the following facts and figures may be interesting. The coldest inhabited spot on earth is the little town of Werchojansk, in Siberia, which is situated 67 degrees 34 minutes N. lati- tude, 133 degrees 561 minutes E. long- itude. The lowest temperature observed there is—90.4 degrees F. The average temperature for January is—63.4 de- grees I. ; Tebruary—50.8 degrees F. ; March—18,4 degrees F. ; April—3.2 de- grees I. ; May, 32 degrees F.; June, 50 degrees F. ; July, 57.2 degrees F.; August, 42.8 degrees F. ;* September, 28.4 degrees F. ; October—4 degrees F. ; November,—40 degrees F. ; December, —58 degrees F. The terrible cold which prevails in Eastern Siberia is, fortunately, not ac- companied by wind, for otherwise no human being could exist there. The minimum tem perature at Jakutsk is —179.6 degrees F.; and at Ustjansk —68.2 degrees F., and during the whole month of January the thermometer never reaches the height of 1.4 degrees F. The Winters are extraordinary dry in this region. The lowness ot temperature is due to the fact that Eastern Siberia is not in- fluenced by oceanic depressions, and a very high atmospheric pressure, with calm, clear weather and a dry atmos- phere, prevails. In this way the warm air currents are aided in their escape, while the high mountain ranges in the south and east tend to imprison the masses of cold aj, Hedenstrom and Wrangell have pub- lished very remarkable reports on the effect of the cold upon the living organ- ism in Siberia. If the temperature sinks to—40 degrees F., every breath that is drawn causes pain 1n the chest and lungs. Old tree-trunks burst with the frost ; rocks are shattered with a noise like thunder ; and deep chasms form in the ground, from which streams of water rush steaming, only to be turned into ice the next moment. ES ——— Tuberculosis Bulletin. Fears of the Public in Regard to the Milk Supe ply are Allayed. The agricultural experiment station of The Pennsylvania State College is is- suing a bulletin on “Tuberculosis” by Dr. Leonard Pearson. The bulletin says the view held by some theorists that tuberculosis can he caused by tu- berculin is entirely disproved, because all cattle tested have remained healthy. The bulletin shows that the tubercu- lin test is the most accurate method of diagnosing tuberculosis of cattle, and discusses some of the objections that have been made to it. One of these is in relation to the likelihood of its caus. ing tuberculosis in healthy animals, This was shown to be impossible. The effect of tuberculin on the quantity of milk is found to be insignificant, and there is no perceptible diminution ex- cept where the animal is diseased. The likelihood of spreading tuber- culosis in an animal already diseased at the time of the test is declared to be 80 very slight that in practice it may be ignored. The tendency of tuber- culin is rather to heal the disease, al- though it rarely cures it, than to make it more severe. The bulletin does much to allay the fears of the public in re- gard to the milk supply, because it is stated that tuberculous cattle are by no means so numerous as has been frequently represented. Death of a Famous Dressm aker. Worth, the famous dressmaker of Paris, is dead. Charles Frederick Worth, the most celebrated of all Parisian dressmakers, was, singulariv enough, a native ot England, but the only queen in all Eu- rope who never ordered a toilette from him is the one of whom he was born a subject. He was born at Bourne, in Lincolnshire, in 1825. His father was a solicitor with a good private fortune, which he lost in speculation. At the age of 13 young Worth went to the great dry goods house of Swan & Edgar, io London, and remained there for seven years, during which time he did all the work of an ordinary ap- prentice. In this large establishment he developed and pertected his appre- ciation of the productions of the French milliners and dressmakers. After Worth went to Paris he was em ployed for twelve years in a silk house, after which he started * business for himeel fand his artistic taste soon made him the autocrat of dress in the world of fashion. Pennsylvania Railroad’s Second Tour to “The Golden Gate,” The large number of people who have leisure, and the growing desire of Americans to see the wonders of their native land, are the principal agencies in advancing a healthy sentiment in favor of travel. The Pennsylvania Railroad Com- pany's personally-conducted tours to California will be conducted in all re- spects as those of preceding years, with some added advantages, which cannot fail to attract the attention and enlist the interest of the tourist. In addition to the high-grade ac- commodations and entertainment in transit, the Pennsylvania tourists are treated with the same liberality where- ever the journey is broken. The choicest rooms in the leading hotels are alway reserved for their use, for which regular rates are paid, so that the guess, although members of a large party, enjoy all the privileges of individuals who may have made their own selections. The second tour in the 1895 series to the Golden Gate, will leave New York and Philadelphia May 16, 1895. Detailed itinerary will be sent on application to Tourist Agent, 1196 Broadway, New York or Room 411, Broad Street Station, Philadelphia. 40-10 3t For and About Women. The establishment of full woman suf- frage in South Australia is in some re- spects the greatest triumph ever gained forthe cause. It establishes woman’s freedom over 916,000 square miles of territory—a region larger than all the United States east ot the Mississippi river. 1tis a country destined to be- come densely populated by the Anglo- Saxon race, and to dominate the South- ern hemisphere, the Australia corres- pondent of the ‘Congregationalist” writes concerning the extension of suf- frage to women in that country : “When South Australia falls into line with New Zealand in this matter and of our Australasian population of nearly 4,- 000,000 about a fourth will be under ‘adult suffrage,’ it needs no great gift of prophecy to foretell the speedy estab- lishment of the same order of things in the other three-fourths, Trimming, asa rule, is puton up and down and not round and round. Some skirts have a narrow band of some kind of trimming at or near the bottom, but the preferable way is to have a strip running down the side. A very pretty black dress which had but little trim- ming was enlivened by a strip of black satin ribbon spangled with blue sequins which reached from the waist down one side of the front, ending in two flat loops at the bottom. There is a great deal of this style of trimming displayed now. White satin ribbon spangled with blue and green is the favorite for light dresses. A tan crepon was ornamented in this way with white ribbon and blue sequins. A pearl trimming fashioned in wing- like pieces would make a pretty finish for a bodice, Even parasols are spangled. A white silk one with a two-inch band of gold- colored sequins inserted near the edge will meke a brilliant showing in the summer sun. Strips of lace insertion are cheaper and perhaps more appropriate for summer wear than the heavier jet trimmings. The heavier lace is being used now for the early spring dresses. One shown is of =a suede cloth, with trimming of cream lace. The insertion is put on in varying lengths at the bottom of the skirt. The bodice bas a shirt front bordered with lace. A summer wardrobe will not be com- Piste without a Marie Antoinette fichu. hey are made of white muslin with fine close polka dots of pale pink or blue, and have deep double ruffles of muslin and three-inch yellow lace. They are worn on wool or cotton gowns, pass- ed about the shoulders in soft folds, low down, making a yoke effect in the back, brought straight over the shoulders, and held on each side of the bust by knots of butter-colored ribbon. From these bows the fichu is carried to the waist line and tied in a loose knot, with ends falling way down in the front of the gown, Blouse bodices prevail even on ball- dresses. There is a general approval of puffings, or of what, for a better name, may be styled pouches, falling over the waist-band. Box-plaits, in the Norfolk jacket style, have the effect of giving ap- parent slenderness to the waist, encircled by a belt of satin or velvet, whether worn plain or as a draped ceinture, which probably accounts for their popu- larity. As to the length of the waist opinions are divided. With a natural- ly short waist it is best to choose a style that seems to lengthen it, such as a corselet coming below the waist, points, or trimmings set length-ways. Pointed bodices are flattering to the figure and improve the appearance of persons with large hips. With a long waist, on the contrary, it is best to wear a bodice that slips inside the skirt, which is topped by a belt with a large knot to one side. Embroidery in silk on materials of the same color, as we noted long ago, has been revived in Paris, yet meets so far with but partial success, though it is predicted that this form of ornamenta- tion will be much used during the sum- mer, when fringes and frayed-out rib- bons and ruchiugs of all sorts are ex- pected to have a considerable vogue. The long-haired Mongolian fur, so much worn during the cold season, gave an impetus to these frayed edges, and indicated the lines on which the fashion might be expected to advance. At the funeral services of Mrs. Davis, of California, the wife of a well known railroad man, the unusual spectacle was presented of & woman conducting the services. Mrs. Sarah B. Cooper, founder of the San Francisco kindergartens, de- livered an address and read the burial services, according to the last request of the dead. Mrs. Cooper paid an elo- quent tribute to the woman who had aided for years in her charitable work. There is a tendency to revive the basque in street costumes, in which case the long coat will be out of a mission with its wasp waist and flaring collar and sleeves. The new basque is a modi- fication of the old style. It has five seams in the back, and is sprung over the hips in curving seams. In front it is buttoned diagonally and can have either one or two rows ot buttons. The high curate’s collar is close fitting. The sleeves are large and are shaped by the inside seam, with full pleats from the shoulder, where they are gathered in, fitting the forearm and waist closely. This is a jaunty coat-basque, which does away with the necessity of a wrap. Its length over the edge of tne waist is only a few inches. Don’t wear a hat too young unless you wish to look old. A sailor hat can be.confidently recommended as calculat- ed to make any mature woman look like a grandmother. Don’t wear a bang bigger than the moment's fashion justifies it you don’t wish to look hopelessly vulgar. It isa general law that you can always doa simpler thing than the fashion with safety, but to be fussier than the fashion is to be lost to good taste and dead in vulgarity and commonness. Don’t wear your clothes tight if you are too fat, Don’t cut yourself in two near the knees with a coat that strikes you about there if you are a short woman. Noth- ing detracts more from an appearance of height. Don’t forget in arranging your bead- gear that the effect of the modern varia- tions of the Alsatian bow depends alto- gether in fine shades in placing it. You can have horns growing horizontally out of your temples and feel fashionable, but vou will 4 crazy and ugly.