Denard Bellefonte, Pa., Feb. 22, 1895. THE WOUNDED GULL. The children Jaughed and called it tame ! But ah ! one dark and shrivel’d wing Hung by its side ; the gull was lame, A suffering and deserted thing. With painful care it downward crept ; Its eye was on the rolling sea; Close to our very feet it stept, Upon the wave, and then—was free. Right out into the east it went, x Too proud, we thought, to flap or shriek ; Slowly it steered, in wonderment To find its enemies so meek. Calmly it steered, and mortal dread Disturbed not crest nor glossy plume ; It could but die, and being dead, The open sea should be its tomb. We watched it till we saw it float Almost beyond our furthest view ; It flickered like a paper boat, Then faded in the dazzling blue. It could but touch an English-heart To find an English bird so brave ; Our life blood glowed to see it start Thus boldly on the leaguered wave ; And we shall hold till life departs, For flagging days when hope grows dull, Fresh as a spring within our hearts, The courage of the wounded gull. — Edmund Gosse. ECS —— WASHINGTON. BY FLORENCE MARION HOWE HALL. There are in the possession of Mr. David Prescott Hall, of New York bar a series of quaint old mauuscript vol- umes, which look as if they had seen rich service. As they were written in the camp of the continental army, during the war of the American Revolution, sometimes on the knee of the writer, sometimes on a drum head ; as they were carried about from place to place, borne off in hearty retreats, or in forced searches, it must be confessed that their looks do not belie them. Nevertheless, the clever 11 short, stout, sturdy books are in a very fair state of preservation, and are easily legible, save occasionally at the cor- ners, which are in some places frayed and worn. When I add that these orderly books contain the general orders of Washington to his army, it will be seen that their interest and value are very great. These orderly books are in the hand writing of Colenel Grosvenor. On their yellow, time-stained pages one can trace the record of Washing: ton’s daily struggles to organize and discipline the army, from the day when he first took command of it, un- der the spreading elm at Cambridge. They abound with the most minute details of the intention, and give us a photographic picture of the army and its surroundings, all in the quaint lan- guage and peculiar spelling of that by- gone time, One cannot help smiling at these times, but one hardly knows whether to smile or weep at the for- lorn condition of our little army, which is here so vividly revealed. The loftiness and nobility of Wash- ington’s character shine out in these pages. But be often gives expression to his surprise, and sometimes to his just indignation at the conduct of offi- cers and men, who found it very diffi- cult and distasteful to submit to disci- pline. Washington's early experience as a soldier had taught him the absolute necessity of discipline and obedience, and he gradually enforced both on the little army of raw militia, who had to learn that bravery is not the only qualification necessary for a soldier. WASHINGTON’S FIRST COMMAND TO HIS TROOPS. Headquarters, Cambridge, July the 3d, 1775. Parole lookout. Countersign sharp. Field officer of the day to-morrow, Colouvel Gerry. Field officer of the mainguard to morrow, Major Poor. : Adjutant of the day, Gibbs. General orders by his Excellency General Washington, Esq., Command: er-in-chiet of the forces of the United Colonies in North America. That the colonel or commanding officer of each regiment is ordered forthwith to make the returns of the number of men in their respective regiments, distinguish- ing those who are sick, wounded or absent on furlough, and also the qnan- tity of ammunition each regiment has. On the next day an extensive series of orders was given. Returns were to be made by the proper officers of all military and oth- er stores, including “working tools of all kinds, tents and camp kettles.” The wise father of his country thus urged upon his troops the laying aside of all sectional spirit : “The Continental Congress baying now taken all the troops ot the several colonies which have been raised and which may be hereafter raised for the support and defence of the liberties of America into their pay and service. they are now the troops of the United Provinces of North America, and it is hoped that all distinctions of colonies will be laid aside so that one and the same spirit may animate the whole and the only contest be who shall, on this great and trying occasion, be of the most a service to the great common cause in which we are all en- gaged.” The seventh order of this day's se- ries urges the officers to keep their men in good condition. “All officers are required and expec- ted to pay their diligent attention to keep their men neat and clean, to visit them at their quarters * * * they are particular to see that they have straw to lie on if it is to be had and to make it known if they are destitute of this article.” And the tenth shows that small-pox, which in those days, before the discov- ery of vaccination, was & terrible | scourge, was not far distant : | “No person whatever is to be al-, lowed to go to *Freshwater a fishing or on any other occasion, as there may be danger of introducing the small-pox nto the army.” #Probably Fresh Pood near Cam- bridge. ' SCARCITY OF POWDER. The scarcity of powder wag one of the most distressing wants of the little army, and we find it ordered in this first Fourth of July of our national struggle, “that there be no piece of can- non or emall arms fired from any of the lines or elsewhere, except in cases of necessary defense or special order given for that purpose.” Our men could not afford to waste a single rouad of shot or powder, and this or- der had to be repeated more than once. Notwithstanding all Washington's caution, however, it was found a little later that the powder was almost ex- hausted. The committee of supplies had made a strange mistake. They had made a return of all the powder collected by the province, more than three hundred barrels, but had forgot- ten to to say how much of it had al- ready been used up. There was only enough to furnish nive cartridges to each man. On the 4th of August Washington wrote to the president of Congress, tell- ing them of this distressing state of things, and on the same day be issued this order : «Tt is with indignation and shame that the general observes, notwith- standing the repeated orders which have been given to prevent the firing of guns in and about the camp, that it is daily and hourly practiced contrary to all orders. That straggling soldiers who practice to pass the guards and fire at a distance when there is not the least probability of hurting their ene mies and by which no other end is an- swered than to waste their ammunition and keep their own companies in preg- nant and continual alarm to the hart and detriment of every good soldier, which is hereby disturbing his natural rest, and at length will never be able to distinguish between a real and false alarm.” After forbidding all persons to pass the out guards without proper authorization, and declaring that any one offending in this way will be con- sidered as a common enemy, to be fired upon as such, the order continues thus : “The colonels of regiments and commanders of corps are ordered to gee to it that the rolls of every com- pany be called twice a day and every man’s ammunition examined at eve- ning roll call and such as are found to be deficient, are to be confined.” In other words some of the soldiers of the continental army needed to have their stock of powder examined, just as a boy’s pockets need a nightly overhauling by his mother. This seeming severity was made a necessity from the great danger of the situation of our troops. During a fort night they were virtually without pow- der. The British, from their position on Bunker Hill, commanded a full view of the American workers on Win- ter and Prospect Hills. Indeed the sentries of the two armies were ‘near enough to converse together and occa- sionally did so on the sly. We find our noble general ‘hears with astonishment that not only sold- iers, but officers, unauthorized are con- tinually conversing with the officers and sentinels of the enemy.” How great must have been his anx- iety least they should betray to the enemy our lack of the necessities of war | His thought that the British com- mander must have heard in this or gome other way of our alarming coon- dition, but that the boldness with which our army maintained their po- gition made him think the story could not be true! Washington's constant appeals to the patriotism and houor of his soldiers show how thoroughly he appreciated their bravery and sterling virtue. His reproof to them should be cousidered as the necessary rebukes of their chief to his military children. The soldiers were like members of a great family and they occasionally behaved like school boys. THE DRUMS MUST NOT BE BEATEN BEFORE DAYLIGHT. Thus too great and early a zeal sometimes animated the drummers, as on July 20, 1775, when : “Certain drums in or near Cam- bridge very improperly beat the reveil- le this morning before day ; although the troops are ordered to be under arms half an hour before daylight, it does not follow that the drums are to be beat at that time ; the reveille is to beat when a sentry can see clearly one thousand yards before him and not be- fore.” What this sentry was to do in foggy weather does not appear. Washington was obliged to insist re- peatedly that his orders should be read every evening to all the soldiers, since this important duty was too often neglected, and to declare that igno- rance of orders would not be admitted in “excuse of any delinquency.” The persistency of the men in ask- ing leave to go off on furlough troub- led him very much. No doubt he sympathized with their desire to visit their families, but what was to become of the army if so many of its boys went home for recess? On July 8 he thus reasoned with them : The general hears with astonish- ment the frequent applications that are made to him as well by officers as goldiers- for furloughs. Brave men, who are engaged in the noble cause of liberty, should never think of remov- ing from the camp while the enemy is in sight, and anxious to take every ad- vantage any indiscretion on our side may give them, The General doubts not but the commanding officers of corps will anticipate his wishes and discourage those under them from dis- gracefully desiring to go home till the campaign is ended.” ENLISTING IN SEVERAL REGIMENTS FOR- BIDDEN. The commander-in-chief was also an- noyed by the restlessness of the sold- iers, in changing from one regiment to another, perhaps in order to be wiih their friends, or for some other advan- tage, real or imaginary. “Continual complaints being made that soldiers of regiments and compan- jes enlisting in one company and regi- ment have often gone and enlisted in another ; inasmuch as the general's whole time would be ingrossed to hear the disputes, upon this subject, for the future any officers who have any dis- putes in regard to the men returned are to apply to the brigadier com- manding the brigade, who will order a court-martial of the brigades to hear and determine the matters.” * Not only was our army without uni- forms at this time, but even ordinary clothing were sadly needed by some of the men. The Massachusetts troops, who formed two-thirds of the whole force (9,000 out of 14,000), were among the most destitute, as that colony had hitherto, borne the brunt of the war, and the troubles which precede it. Washington generously said, “Their spirit has exceeded their strength. He also ordered that “The clothing provided by the Massachusetts com- mittee of supplies for those men of their Government who lost clothes in the late action on Bunker Hill be dis- tributed to the most needy and necessi- tous men of each regiment.” AWKWARD AND EMBARRASSING RESULTS FROM THE LACK OF UNIFORMS. The entry for July 14 says : “There being some things awkward as well as improper the general officers being stopped at the out port in pass: ing by the sentinels and obliged to send tor the officer of the guard, who some- times happens as much unacquainted with the person of the general as the privatemen ; before they can pass in orout: It is recommended to both officers and men to make themselves acquainted with the persons of all the officers in general command and in the meanwhile to prevent mistakes the general officers and their aiddecamps are to be distinguished by a little blue ribbon worn across the breast between his coat and his waistcoat, the major generals and brigadier generals by a pink ribbon wore in like manner ; the aiddecamps by a green ribbon.” An order issued a few days later gays : “As the continental army have unfortunately no uniform, and conse- quently many inconveniences must ariee from not being able always to distinguish the commissioned officers from the uncommissioned and the non- commissioned from the private, it is de- sired that some badges of distinction may be immediately provided ; for in- stance the field officers may have red or pink colored cockades in their hats, ete.’ WASHINGTON URGES HIS MEN TO RESPECT PRIVATE PROPERTY. Two days after he attained com" mand, Washington issued the follow- ing order : “The general most earnestly recom- mends and requires of all the officers that they be exceedingly diligent and strict in preventing all invasions and capture of private property in their quarters or elsewhere. He hopes, and indeed, flatters himeelf that every pri- vate soldier will abhor and detest such practices when he considers that it is for the preservation of his own rights, liberty and property and them of his fellow-countrymen, that he is now called into service ; that it is unmanly and sullies the dignity of the great cauge in which we are all engaged to violate that property he is called to protect, and especially that it is most cruel and inconsistent to thus add to the distress of those of their country- men who are suffering under the iron hand of oppression.” Thus, with an eye to detail, which reminds us of Napoleon, did Washing ton day after day inspect, exhort, chide and praise his little army until the feeble crescent of his forces grew to be a circlet of steel about the British army as it lay in Boston town, forcing the proud General Howe to a precipi tate retreat. Early in March Washington seized upon and fortified Dorchester Heights (now South Boston), riding among his troops, animating and encouraging them, and reminding them that it was the 5th of March—the anniversary of the Boston massacre. The forts poured a heavy cannonade against our breastworks, but in vain! We were masters of the situation, the power of the British received a se- vere blow, and Washington took pos- session of Boston amid general rejoic- ings. Often, in the days of childhood, I played among the remains of the old fortifications on Dorchester Heights ; now the hills have all been dug down in the march of progress. On the birthday of the father of his country it becomes us all to look back to those times of early struggle, pov- erty and patriotism, and to remember that ours is the work to keep the path of progress still the path of patriot- ism,” EEE TOE Her Father Was a King. LEBANON, Pa., Feb. 15.—Mrs. Har- riet A. BEskins, whose father reigned as king of Guinea, died here yesterday, aged 111 years. She leaves two daugh- ters, Frances J. Eskins, of William- sport, and Mrs. H. A. Baker, of this city, besides, forty-four grandchildren, thirty-seven great grandchildren, eigh- teen great-great grand children and Sinan great-great-great grand-chil- ren. ——————————— Families Are Starving. HENNESSY, O. T., February 17.—An appeal for aid has been issued by set- tiers in the strip. Hundreds of families are absolutely starving, eating prairie dogs and horses. The suffering is un- paralleled. Cattle have been dying in droves as a result of the unprecedented “northers’’ which visited both territories and Texas within the past few weeks. The State Expenditures. | A ————} — Origin of Cold Waves. It is evident from the number and | 4 Timely Talk With Prof. Hazen on Zero Weath- magoitude of the sums asked for in the way of appropriations for various pur- poses, the legislature will find it diffi- cult to keep expenditures for the next two years within the treasury receipts, remarks the Pittsburg Commercial Ga- sette. The “claims” are not all in yet, and even at this early date an aggre- gate of $30,000,000 can be figured up. As against this enormous sum the state treasurer estimates that the re- ceipts for the next two years will not exceed $19,500,000, or about $2,000, 000 lees than for the past two years. It is very plain that $30,000,000 can not safely be appropriated when less than $20,000,000 is in sight subject to draft. There will have to be a severe pruning down wherever the knife can be applied, or the credit of the state for good financiering and economical government will suffer. There is one thought running through the legislative mind—that this is a great state ; that is practically out of debt, and that its resources are almost limitless. This is true, and very creditable to the financial mau- agement of past years. But that is one of the strongest reasons why the greatest care should be exercised in au- thorizing public expenditures. It will not do to enter upon an era of extrava- gant expenditures in times like these. Owing to business depression the state receipts will be curtailed as indicated above, and it would be very unwise to pursue a policy which will tend to in- crease taxation or add to the state debt. There are some items which cannot be curtailed, nor is it desirable that they should be ; but there are others that can be more or less reduced, and many applications for money that should be peremptorily denied. The creation of needless offices and the in- crease of salaries are evils that cannot be too carefully guarded against. Many of the schemes involving large expenditures, while commendable enough in themselves, are not necessa- rily pressing. They can afford to wait a more convenient season. Times will doubtless improve in the near fu- ture, but this is not the time for en- couraging lavish expenditares. Gov- ernor Hastings has promised to look after this matter, and as things appear now he will have to make use of the veto power to ease the strain upon the treasury. TTT I ETE. Housekeeper. To make excellent iron-holders cut a pair of worn-out boots or shoes into squares and cover with some suitable material, using as many thicknesses of the leather as desired and whipping it closely in place. Bait the rat-trap with an oyster and await results. Letting clothes hang after they are dry, or letting them hang through a storm orin a windy weather to slap about is not conducive to long wearing or to help the good man’s pocket-book. This is said to be an effectual vermin exterminator : Dissolve two pounds of alum in two or three quarts of boiling water and apply, while hot, to every joint or crevice where ants and cock- roaches congregate. It is useful for pantry shelves and bedsteads, for kitch- en floors and baseboards. Use a brush in applying it. Wash out machine oil stains at once with soft cold water and soap. I PEC TY ATR TT TH Tunneled Through a Snow-Drift. READING, Pa., February 16.—Some farmers of Berks county were able to- day, for the first time since the blizzard, to reach this city. Many of the town- ship roads are still impassable, and nearly everybody who can handle a shovel is engaged in opening the drifted highways. The Supervisor of Robeson township, Samuel Lewis, encountered a drift twenty-two feet high and sixty feet ‘wide on the road leading from Beckersville to Adamstown. This was tunneled, after which John D. Mountz proprietor of the Beckersville Hotel, drove through with a wagon drawn by four horses and crowded with men and women. EEE SR — DuBois Young Man’s Luck. Howard W. Bowman, gon of Mrs. E. K. Bowman, of DuBois, seems to have struck it rich. For the last couple of years he has been engaged in various bus- iness enterprises in the southwest. Re- cently, while in New Mexico, Bowman, in company with another young man, secured some property near La Belle, a new mining town. Rich deposits of gold were found on the property, and a company, in which Bowman holds & controlling interest, was formed. An offer of $25,000 for the land was refused, and experts have placed its value at $5,000,000. It will be developed. ar—— Sound Proof. A gentleman who lives ina Southern town the other day employed a carpen- ter to partition off a part of his study. and particularly instructed the work- man to make the partition sound proof, The carpenter declared that he could do this effectually with a filling of sawdust. When it was finished the gentleman stood on the other side and celled to the carpenter on the other : “Can’t you hear me, Smith ?”’ «No, sir, not a bit,” was the prompt reply. ———— Had Thought About It. Kind Lady—“Do you ever think of the solemn fact that we all must die ?”’ Tramp—‘ Yes, mum, often.” “So do I, and I hope to die the death of a Christian. Have you ever thought of the death you would like to die ?” «Yes, mum, I'd like to be drowned in a beer vat.” A Buckeye Ambition. «But, great heavens !” said the man, uyou are already an editor, postmaster, Justice of the Peace and undertaker. ‘Why in thunder should you have the county clerkship ?” : “Sir,” said the other man, proudly, drawing himself up to his full height, «I was born in Ohio.” ¢r.—No Blizzards in the East.—Biting Blasts From the Northwest, Probably Dueto a Down~ rush of Rarefied Air From the Frigid Regions Up Aloft. Writing from Washington to the St. Louis Globe Democrat a correspont says: «We have some kinds of weather in the United States that are unknown abroad,” said Protessor H. A. Hazen yesterday. «Take the recent cold wave, for example. It was a record-breaker, you know, car- rying the rigors of winter to a lower lati- tude than has been known for 60 years at least. Florida suffered $4,000,000 worth of damage. At Pensacola the oranges froze hard on the trees. The thermometer at Tampa fell to 18 de- grees above zero—5 degrees below the lowest ever noted. At Orange Park ice two inches thick formed on ponds. A cold wave of equal severity, it is said, struck the flowery peninsula in 1885, | but temperatures were not then recorded with reliable accuracy. BLIZZARDS UNKNOWN IN THE EAST. “Cold waves are unknown in Europe. We may justly pride ourselves upon them as an American institution It is the same way with blizzards. Who ever heard of a blizzard in Europe ? The thing does not exist over there. In England some very extraordinary no- tions prevail as to blizzards. When a Yankee finds himself out in a blizzard his customary resort is to take off every stitch of his clothing. You never heard of that, eh ? Well, the statement is made by many British authors. I have suc- ceeded in tracing it as far back as Aber- crombie, the eminent meteorologist, who gives it his unquestioning indorse- ment. Where or how it originated no- body can say. This quaint myth is based on the idea that a storm of this character produces a demoralizing effect upon the mind to the person exposed to its fury, causing him to shed his gar- ments when he needs them most. I myself have been on the plainsin a very severe blizzard, but I felt no such incli- nation as that described. And no won- der, inasmuch as the air was filled, not with snowflakes, but with actual nee- dles of ice, which stung most painfully wherever they struck the flesh. These ice needles are a phenomencn peculiar to blizzards ; but the latter have another eccentricity yet more remarkable. The wind seems to blow all ways at once, and whatever direction you may pursue it is always in your face. Such a thing as a real blizzard is not known in the Eastern parts of the United States ; it belongs to the West. The so-called blizzard that struck New York and buried the metropolis under several feet of snow in March, 1888, was not the true article, but merely a great storm. THE ORIGIN OF COLD WAVES. «Cold waves are very strange phenom- ena. Nobody knows with certainty where they come from or how they are formed. They are formed somewhere inland in the far northwest, in the lati- tude of greatest cold, which, as you know, is a good wey south of the North Pole. At the North Pole it is probably comparatively warm, and that extremity of the earth’s axis is perhaps surrounded by an open and an unfrozen sea. As for the typical cold wave, my belief is that it is composed of air drawn down from the higher and more frigid regions of the atmosphere. Ascend to an alti- tude of 80 miles above the earth’s sur- face, and you might find a rarefied air at a temperature of 100 degrees below zero, or even much lower. The body of cold formed by the downrush of this frigid air from above starts on a journey eastward across the continent, travel- ing at the speed of a fast railway train, say, 35 or 40 miles an hour. As it pro- ceeds it spreads out. Obviously, the cold air would be gradually warmed dur- ing the trip unless the wave were re- plenished with cold in some fashion. My notion is that while the wave is in tran- sit fresh cold is continually drawn into it from above, where there is always an unlimited supply of air at an extremely low temperature. Finally, the wave passes off over the ocean. In some man- ner the Allegheny Mountains seem to interrupt the passage of cold waves, to a certain extent, as if the cold air was banked up against the range of hills, and its passage thus impeded. On this account it is very dificult to predict cold waves for the region about Wash- ington, a ————— America a Hundred Years Ago. Imprisonment for debt was a common practice. - There was not a public library in th United States. Every gentlemen wore a queue and powdered his hair. Almost ail the furniture was import- ed from England. An old copper mine in Connecticut was used as a prison. There was only one hat factory, and that made cocked hats. Crockery plates were objected to be- cause they dulled the knives. Two stage coaches bore all the travel between New York and Boston. Virginia contained a fifth of the whole population of the country. A man who jeered at the preacher or criticised the sermon was fined. A day laborer considered himself well paid with two shillings a day. A gentleman bowing to a lady al- ways scraped his foot on the ground. The whipping post and pillory were still standing in Boston and New York. Beef, pork, salt fish, potatoes and hominy, were the staple diet all the year round. Buttons were scarce and expensive, and the trousers were fastened with pegs or lacers. When a man had enough tea he plac- ed his spoon across his cup to indicate that he wanted no more. Leather breeches, a checked shirt, a red flannel jacket, and a cocked hat formed the dress of an artisan. There were no manufacturers in this country, and every housewife raised her. own flax and made her own linen. The church collection was taken in a bag at the end of a pole, with a bell at- tached to rouse sleepy contributors. A ———— — Not in His Line. Miss Golddust—Are you fond of water colors, count ? Couut Non-Bathskie—Naw ! I don’t "like vater in anyding. For and About Women. . “THE NEW WOMAN,” She does not “languish in her bower,” Or squander all the golden day In fashioning a gaudy flower tpon a worsted spray ; Nor is she quite content to wait Behind her “rose-wreathed lattice-pane, Until beside her father’s gate The gallant Prince draws rein.” The brave “New Woman™ scorns to sigh, And count it “such a grievous thing” That year on year should hurry by ‘And po gay suitor bring ; In labor’s ranks she takes her place, With skillful hands and cultured mind ; Not always foremost in the race, But never far behind. And not less lightly fall her feet Because they tread the busy ways ; She is no whit less fair and sweet Than maids of olden days Who, gowned in samite or brocade, Looked charming in their dainty guise, But dwelt like violets in the shade, With shy, half-opened eyes. Of life she takes a clearer view, And through the press serenely moves, Unfettered, free ; with judgment true Avoiding narrow grooves. She reasons, and she understands ; And sometimes 'tis her joy and crown To lift with strong yet tender hands The burdens men lay down. E. Matheson. Ribbons are in great demand, especial- ly very broad ones. They make their appearance as folding sashes with long ends on dresses, ruches and epaulettes on cloaks and often are tied in a large bow over the chest. The most fashion- able ones are black velvet and those with both sides of = different color and texture, and among the latter the com- bination of white and black is quite the furore. Oatmeal and bran bags which are used in the bath to whiten and soften the skin, can easily be made by the average woman. Take five pounds of oatmeal, ground fine, half a pound of pure castile soap, powdered, and a pound of Italian orris root. Cut a yard of thin cheese cloth into bags four inches square, sew three sides on the machine, leaving an opening in the fourth side. Fill the bags loosely and use as required. Bran can be used instead of oatmeal and in the same way. Use the bags as a sponge. The bran is especially effective asa whitener, and is good for some affections of the skin, while the orris root gives 8 delicate and lasting perfume. The shape of the spring skirt differs in no great degree from the winter model of the front gores and godet back. In- stead of the deadly heavy haircloth, however, the interlining is of the lighter grass-cloth, a Paquin wire braid giving the proper stand-off effect at the feet. The jacket, whose short bottom flares slightly over the hips and lies at the back in two inturning pleats, is tight fit- ting. It opens over a trim, high-collar- ed vest of blue and white pique, and the large sleeves are gigot-shaped and held in place at the top with shirring. This shirring, by the way, marks all the new tailor sleeve tops. The cutaway jacket, too, is offered as a rival for the longer coat, and a younger fancy for this than the one described is to have the tail rip- ple slightly all round. a —. The best tailor sleeves yet seen are, as heretofore, huge mutton-leg affairs, cut on the bias, They are not perceptibly stiffened, but are held gracefully out by a solid linen interlining, and often good effects are made by laying the lower in- side seam in pleats. This brings much of the fullness from underneath, and it is balanced by a cluster of pleats at the upper inside seam, the two causing the seam to fall over the arm in heavy half- ring folds. Another becoming sleeve being adopted for new tailor gowns is made with a vast upper arm puff and a long cuff, that fits the forearm like a glove. The puff drops sharply from the shoulder, the outward bulge that now distinguishes all modish sleeves coming only at the lower part. The day of frowsy, frizzy hair has en- tirely gone by, unfortunately for the girls with fine soft tresses which fail to make any show atall without the friend- ly aid of the curling tongs. Thick glossy hair, with only the least bit of a wave, If any is now the correct thing, and, though it might not appear so at the first glance, it is really more trouble to keep it in good order than it was to manage the crimps and curls which re- quire manifold little paper wads or the withering hot irons. One of two very youthful evening dresses is made of spotted muslin with a full plain skirt over one of taffeta, which may match the muslin or contrast with it. The full simple waist is cut square at the neck and edged with a frill of the material, with here and there a small bunch of flowers. A band of ribbon goes around the waist and ties in a bow on the left side, from which it falls half- way down the skirt and ends in a bow. Chiffon and mull are favorite mater- ials with young girls for evening wear. A dainty dress of white mull is trimmed around the skirt with a curved flounce of the same, headed by a tiny wreath of rose buds and caught with pink satin bows. The baby waist is belted with a sash of pink ribbon, and the neck is finished with points of pearl and pink spangled trimming. Pink ribbon forms the straps over the shoulders. Pique coats will be all the vogue for small girls this sumnie.. Some are short and some are long, but all are elabor- ately trimmed with embreidery. Jaunty little coats are double breasted and reach just below the waist line. They fasten with smoked-pearl buttons and have double collars of embroidery. Some of the pique coats reach the hem of the gown and are made with long English capes of insertion finished with an em- broidery frill. Large pique hats are sold with these coats. They have a Tam o’Shanter-like crown buttoned to the wide brim, A little French model of a pique coat and hat shows the short jacket of white pique. The deep sailor collar is of insertion, lined with pale- green silk and trimmed with a frill of embroidery which also shows the green silk beneath. The pique hat is made with a green silk Tam o’Shanter crown. Other pique coats are trimmed with in- sertion, which is lined with a dainty color. There are between 300 and 100 women in the United States who have received their degree in pharmacy, the majority of whom have charge of the drug rooms of various hospitals.