Beworeaic Waldman Bellefonte, Pa., Jan. 25, 1895. THE UNSETTLED MAN. Here's how he looked at Christmas times All filled with joy and mirth, While blowing in his hard-earned dimes To get his “dollar’s worth.” But, here you see a diff’rent pbase, The New Year’s brought him ill; Because a dozen statements says : “Please pay that little bill.” You see our friend he wears a frown And drinks the bitter cup : Because he didn’t “settle down,” He, now can’t *‘settle up.” —R. J. Smith, THE FATAL LOSS OF A NEGATIVE. BY MRS. ALEXANDER. “All I can say is, it's a deuce of a bore I” exclaimed Philip Blount, a smart, good-looking lawyer, who was on very good terms with himself, whose age might be six or seven and twenty, to his particular chum, Tom Marling, a stout, rubicund, horsey stock broker, perbaps a few years older. “Well, it is rather hard lines,” re- turned Marling, sympathetically. “If they had given me timely notice, I might have managed to get down to the Grange, but such an abrupt invita- tion looks as if Gwen Dashwood did not want me down there.” This dialogue was going on in the private office of Mr. Marling, where the two men were discussing a light luncheon of oysters and stout, having a little time to spare at the general re- freshment hour. Blount was yet only a clerk in the old established firm of Ardell & Son ; but that firm was now reduced to the surviving son, who was Blount’s ma- ternal uncle, and a childless widow- er. Marling was a very well off bache- lor, much given to the good things of this life and Blount’s special friend. “Down there” indicated a pictures- que old place called Varley Grange, near Maidenhead. at present tenanted by a charming widow, whose charms were enhanced by the possession of an income which enabled her to rent such a residence, Here she gave de- lightful “Friday to Monday” parties, invitations to which people fished for eagerly. Gwendoline Dashwood was the daughter of Mr. Ardell’s deceased wife’s sister, his ward and the mistress of his house. Blount rather imagined his uncle wished to make a match be- tween his nephew and niece. and was quite sure of his own wishes on the subject ; for Gwen Dashwood was a bright, attractive brunette, with big, brown eyes that could say a great deal —and he paid assiduous court to the young lady. “Were you Blount. “No! I'm not at all up to the mark of Mre. Cholmondely Morton's parties, not elegant enough by lcng chalks.” ‘Better ask you than that beast Everard. I hate the fellow.” “Blount, you're a fool !” “No more than my neighbors.” “Rather less, in a general way; bat you are a fool about that cousin of yours.” “She isn’t a cousin ; she is no rela- tion at all.” “Well, whether she is or not, you'll lose your game if yon lose your balance about her. From what I have seen I I am inclined to think you stand very well with her, and Everard is much too grim and sour and black browed to be a dangerous rival. Besides, that Indian forestry appointment of his is no great thing. And then Miss Dash- word is not the girl to think of a man who is obliged to live in the wilds.” “I’m not so sure, Marling. Everard has an infernal cool air of command and superiority that imposes on women, and Gwen has a dash of romance in her. I fancy she thinks or suspects that I am what she would call ‘low- minded’ because I have the sense to have an eye to the main chance ; but I flatter myself I’ve been making way with her lately. There's nothing goes down with that sort of girl like an air of being hopelessly gone upon her, and, in fact, I am—rather | It’s such uncommon luck to have a fancy for the right young woman.” “Is she the right one ?" “She is. You see my uncle is deuced fond of her, and pretty sure to leave her the bigger half of his worldly goods, though he likes me, but if we marry, we'll have the whole.” “Admirable reasoning. But if you are making way, you may snap your fingers at Everard.” “I don’t know. I got away early last week and found him at tea with Gwen, tete-a-tete—and after ‘sitting out’ with him for an hour in the con- servatory at Lady Dalrymple’s ball, when I went to claim my waltz, he said, as she took my arm: ‘You must be sure to write at once, remem- ber,’ in a dictatorial tone, as if she were his wife, by Jove!” Marling laughed. “Well, I know he isn’t one of the Grange party.” “How ?” ejaculated Blount. Instead of replying, Marling rum- maged among some papers which lay in a square wicker receptacle on his knee-hole table, and tossed over a note to his guest. It was dated the previous Saturday from the ‘East India Club,” and ran thus : Dear MarLING—] am not goin down to the Grange, nevertheless, cannot keep my appointment on Mon- asked!” continued day. I have other and and better fish to fry, and am obliged to run over to the continent on Monday night. Shall write when I know time of my return. Yours truly. Huu EVERARD. “Ah, then he could not have gone to Mrs. Morton's,” said Blount, with a sigh of relief. “I can’t think how Gwen puts up with his overbearing swagger.’ “Come now, swagger.” ‘ “] suppose Gwen will be home to dinnerat 7. I think I'll go and dine with my uncle in case be feels lonely. He was not at the office to-day, and I am not supposed to knew that his darling will return to cheer him.” . “Prudent young chap, you are! Go on and prosper, Blount, my boy.” The aspiring you lawyer carried out his intention and presented himself to his uncle a few minutes before 7 10 ac- curate evening dress, a dainty flower in his buttonhole and a smile upon his lips. Altogether a handsome, gentle- man-like looking young fellow, and steady, thought Mr. Ardell, who was gpelling over an evening paper some- what disconsolately in his hig and bounteously ornamented drawing room. Mr. Ardell was a well preserved man of perhaps 63—very precise and a little exacting, with severe notions as regarded conduct, principle, integrity and such like old-fashioned laws of life. “Ah, Philip! This is an unexpect- ed pleasure. Glad to see you.” “Thank you, sir. Thought you might like my company, 4s probably Gwen may not return—and—" “Qr possibly that you might find her here ? Eh, Philip? Very natural, my dear boy. Very natural. Still your impulse is somewhat prophetic.” Mr. Ardell stretched out his hand for a yellow envelope which lay on a small table beside him. “I fully ex- pected Gwendoline to luncheon, and not feeling quite the thing, a little liv- erish in fact, I had ordered James to meet the 12:30 train from R-——to look after her luggage and find her a cab, when, about 11:45, I received this,” banding a telegram to Blount, who read : “Shall be home to-night. G. D.» “That means by the last train, I suppose,” said Blount. “No doubt. Very thoughtful of her, knowing she was expected and that I should send to meet every train till she arrived. She sends this to keep my mind at rest.” “When is the last train due?” “About 10.20,” returned Mr. Ardell. “Then I shall go and meet her and bring her back. I need not leave you till 9.50. A hansom will rattle across the park to the Great Western in 20 minutes. “Yes, do, Philip, Gwendoline will be glad to see you. There is a Bradshaw in the dining room. We'll make a note of the time.” “Dipner is on the table,” said James, the solemn man out of livery, who rul- ed the lower regions, Philips Blount followed Mr. Ardell down stairs contentedly enough, though, being somewhat given to sus- picion and self-tormenting, debated that telegram in hisown mind. Why did she not say “shall return by euch or such a train?” Why did she leave things in such a vague condition? James might have been dancing at- tendance at Paddington from 6:30 on, leaving his functions to be indifferent- ly performed by the housemaid, and reducing Mr. Ardell to the inconven- ience of a female waiter. Dinner was, as usual in Lonsdale Gardens, remarkably good—a matter of no small importance in Blount’s eyes—and Mr. Ardell was exceedingly conversational in a careful and didactic manner throughout it. When dessert was put on the table and James departed a short pause en- sued ; then Mr, Ardell said: “I think you will find a fresh Bradshaw on the writing table in the window. Let us make sure of the train before you start.” Philiprose and went to the stable whence he returned with Bradshaw and another book, handsomely bound in deepred with gold letters and dec- orations. “You are right,” he said, the R—— train is due at 10:20.” He handed Bradshaw to his uncle and continued : “I gee you have Everard’s book here. ‘Life in the Wild Woods.” I don’t fancy him in print—doesn’t give me the idea of a writing man.” “T have not read the work,” return- ed.his uncle, with a tinge of disdain in his tone. “That copy was presented to Gwendoline. I was rather annoyed at ner accepting it, though I do not very well see how she could have refus- ed it. But Mr. Everard is nota man I like. He is pretentious and dicta- torial, in fact, inclined to take liberties, or I should say, he presumes on some connection with old friends of Gwendo- line’s to come here much oftener than I like, and assume a tamiliar tone with my niece of which I totally disap- rove’ “Yes, my dear uncle, I have noticed it also, and it makes me indignant. However, he has gone to the continent and—" “Why, yes, I know. He wrote to Gwendoline explaining why he could not go to this party and mentioned that he was going abroad, a very unneces- sary proceeding, a8 I told my niece.” “And what did she say ?"’ “Well, she laughed and said that for all I knew it might be very necessary. “A curious answer,” said Blount un- easily. “What do you make of it ?" “What, I? Oh, nothing. It is really unimportant, only I fancy that Mr. Everard aspires to a matrimonial alliance with us, rather an audacious project on his part.” “I should think it was!” cried Blount. “He tries to seem on confi. dential terms with Gwen, but—"' “She hag too much sense to heed him. In fact, she would not offend me by entertaining any proposal from Mr. Blount, he doesn’t Everard.” interrupted Ardell. “I fancy you are aware, my dear Philip, that my great wish is to see ‘my. nephew and niece united before I die— not only because I am attached to you, but both and each would then be bene. . fited equally by what I may be enabled to bequeath.” “And I desire nothing so ardently,” cried Philip, “as to call her my wife. In fact, I have loved her ever since she came from school to reside here.” “I have suspected it, Philip. I have suspected it,”” returned his uncle. play- ing with the double eyeglass which hung from his neck. boy, I am not so sure of her.” “I am not without hope, ifonly no | one comes between us.” There was a long pause, each being occupied with hisown hopes and fears for the future. Suddenly Blount exclaimed: “Could one drive from Paddington to Charing “But, my dear | aghast. “Why, what—what can be pected has occurred. Sbe has missed her train. She has been over-persuad- unwarrantable surmise is—to0—too preposterous. It Gwen were guilty of deceiving me, I'd—I’d renounce her forever.” “You must not be too hard. If we [| I=" “What is to done next, Philip?” heard him. “] am sure I hardly know, sir. Shall I call at Everard’s club to-mor- row and ascertain it possible when he Cross in half an hour, with a minute or two to spare ?” “Yes, if the streets were not crowd- ed. and the horse a good one. Why do you ask ?”’ “Oh, ah, I only wanted your opio- ion. That is, my dear uncle, I have an awful dread of that fellow Everard, and it's curious, but this morning I saw a note from him saying he was go- ing to start for the continent this even- ing, or some time to-morrow. Could it be—'" he stopped abruptly. “Be what?’ asked Mr. Ardell, putting on his glasses to gaze at the speaker. “Don’t laugh at my jealous fancy, but—but suppose he persuaded Gwen to accompany him !” “Impossible, sir!” was the indignant answer. ‘You show your ignorance of my niece by such a suspicion.” “But, uncle, women are so queer and flighty, and—and just see how this wire gives color to my idea! Why need she send it at all? It would have been no great matter if James had gone to meet several trains. Was it not calculated to keep the whole afternoon free? See, there are only three trains in the day from R——, and Everard could have met her and started by the mail train for Paris, or God knows where. He had some power over her. I heard him say—" and he repeated the story of the ball which be had told Marling in the morning. At first Mr. Ardell was indignant and incredulous, but as Blount persist- ed and insisted on the weakness, gulli- bility and fancifulness of women, es- pecially young ones, the elder man grew restless, irritable and blustering. “Time will show. sir!" cried Blount at last, looking at the heavy classical bronze clock over the fireplace, “and I haven’t left myself too much time to get to the station by 18:20. God grant I may bring back Gwendolin safe and sound to you. I may exaggerate things, but I hardly hope to find her?’ “Nonsense, Philip. I believe you are out of your mind; but you have made me very uncomfortable,” return- ed Mr. Ardell ringing the bell. “Come back as fast as you can. Whistle a cab for Mr. Blount,” he continued, as James appeared in answer to the bell. “You must not agitate yourself too much, my dear uncle,” said Blount rising and feeling some com punction at having worked up his host tosuch a pitch of uneasiness, and he left the room. A hansom already awaited him, and he was soon rattling toward Padding- ton. By this time he had reached a con- dition of mind which induced him to seek comfort by recapitulating his uncle's arguments against himself. Suppose the horrible suspicions prov- true. Mr. Ardell would certainly cut off Gwen with a shilling—or, perhaps a farfhing—possibly all his uncle's fortune might come to him. “I have always been fond of her. There’ssuch a good style about her, and jusc lately she has been so sweet and friendly. What bright, mischievous browr eyes she has. There's no girl in our set fit to tie her shoes. No, all the money wouldn’t be worth much, at least not now, if Gwen slipped through my fin- gers. Hullo! the arrival platform. Cabby, mind what you are about. I want to meet the 10:20 from R aod it’s 10:17 now. In a few seconds he had alighted and was pacing the platform. The rush and bustle of the early ev- ening trains were over. The great station looked gloomy and deserted— very few porters were about and the 10:20 was evidently a thing of no im- portance. Blount paced slowly up and down revolving the possibilities of his posi- tion. Gwen was certainly what is calleda girl of spirit, not to say slightly head- strong and there was nosaying what a young woman of that description might, could or would do. What motive bad she in sending that mysterious tele- gram, if it were notto mask her movements ? ‘“‘Here, porter; isn’t the 10:20 trom R——behind time 2’ “Well, it often is—but it signaled now sir.” A few more uneasy, miserable min- utes and the panting engine was alongside the platform, while the por- ters were opening and banging the doors. The train was fairly full of better class ’Arrys and ’'Arriets who had been boating, plump mothers with numerous olive branches returning from excursions along the river, lover- like couples of a higher grade, eager to jump into hansoms as if fearful of be- ing behind time ; men in flanuels, girls in muslins and shade hats, for it had been a .glorious summer's day. But no sign of the tall distinguished figure he sought for so feverishly. His keen eyes searched every carriage and scan- ned cach group. Soon they were dis- persed like grains of pepper thrown on water, while he was alone and despair- ing. Certainly Gwen Dashwood was not coming home to-night. He left the station and drove back to Lonsdale Gardens as fast he could. “No sign of her!” he exclaimed, rushing into the dining room, where Mr. Ardell, thoroughly infected by his nephew’s fears was pacing to and fro. “Not come !"”” cried the old man | returns ? But of course he will leave I little or no trace of his movements. | “I am quite certain you do Gwen | the greatest injustice, but my dear boy, | come to me to-morrow morning early, as early, ag you can. There is not much doing to-morrow, that case is not on till—till Wednesday, and young Pounceby can manage very well, at least for a few hours, and we must know something certain by the after- noon. No use in expecting her to- night, Philip. Take some brandy and soda before you go. I want some my- self.”. Both felt a little more hopeful after partaking of this retreshment. when they parted with some solemnity, and Blount made his way to his own place, where he passed a wretched night, harassed by frightful dreams, in which he found himeelf minus both the “beauz and yeux’ and the “cassette,” of Rhish he hoped to possess him- self. After a hasty visit to the office, for he never neglected business, Blount hurried to Lonsdale Gardens. “Well, Philip, have you telegraph- ed ?’ was Mr. Ardell’s salutation. “No sir, I thought you would, and two wires would seem ridiculous and suspicious.” “What matter, so long as we get in- formation ?"’ cried his uncle testily. “I will go and telegraph myself,” said Blount, anxious to be up and do- ing, and bent his steps to a central office at some distance, fancying it would be more rapidly dispatched than from the little local postoffice in a baker’s shop. Returning, a runaway horse and a smashed vehicle impeded his progress, and on his arrival James received bim with smiles. “Miss Dashwood is upstairs sir—arrived just after you went out !"” Blount rushed upstairs, two steps at a time, flung open the door and beheld his uncle!standing on the hearth rug, playing nervously with his “pince-nez,” while, still in her hat—a very becom- ing one—an open telegram in her hand, Gwen was walking up and down in (not to put too fine a point upon it) a towering rage. “To make all this fuss about noth- ing I” she was saying. ‘To iusult me with such suspicions and you, uncle, to believe them ! Ah, Philip, I wonder you dare to look me in the face! I know it is all your doing. You have upset Uncle Ardell frightfully, he is quite ill. How dare you accuse me of such baseness ? Yes, Uncle has told me everything, and I see that you are a low-minded; disagreeable creature, and I was beginning to think better of you. The whole mystery has arisen from a mistake, either of mine or the telegraph clerk at R——. The tele: gram I thought I sent—that I intended to send—was: ‘Shall not be home to-night.” Either he or I omitted the negative |” “My dear Gwen,” began Blount, imploringly. “Don’t ‘dear’ me !” she interrupted. “As to Mr. Everard, he had a quarrel ! with his fiancee, an old schoolfellow of mine. I have helped to reconcile them, and she has asked him to meet ber and her mother in Paris.” “But, Gwen, if you knew my feel- ings!” . “If you had kept them to yourself, and not tried to make mischief with my uncle, and lower me in his opinion, I might forgive ; as it is, I shall have no more to do with you Philip.” And she kept her word. A Study of Incomes. Wealth is More Distributed in This Country Than in Great Britian. The following figures, taken from the last English census, reveal some inter- esting facts concerning the economical situation of Great Britain. About 250,000 persons in Great Brit- ian have an annual incorae of $1000, and 2,000,000 have an income of $500. Thus it would appear thas only one out ot every five is capable of supporting a family. Itis to be borne in mind that $500 a year amounts to only $1.37 a day which is not very much for a family of four persons. On the other hand, there are in the United Kingdom 126,000 famlies having an annual income of about $3000, and 5000 families with an income of more than $25,000. In the United States, according to the statistics compiled by T. G. Shear- man, we have 400,000 families (or about two millions of people) whose annual income amounts to $2000, and more than 10,000 families having an income of more than $25,000. Taking into account the difference in population between the United States and Great Britian, it still will be evi- dent that not only can America boast of a greater number of rich people than the United Kingdom, but that wealth is more equally distributed and less cen- tralized in United States. Two Pennsylvania Senators. Pennsylvania has two able men in the Senate, but they got there by way of Michigan and Oregon. Burrows, the new Senator from Michigan and Mitchell, of Oregon, formerly resided in the Keystone State. Pennsylvania would get the best of the bargain trad- ing Quay and Cameron for her two suc- cessful sons in the West. ed to stay the pight—many things | | might have happened, but your—your | Chicago | where Dr Holub has lecture enguge- can only prevent scandal. I should | ig still be ready to carry out your wishes. | A Bridal Trip in Africa. the meaning of Gains So partie Perils That Confronted a Young Bride on the | | nary disappearance ! Something unex: | pg.i Continent. Constantly Beset by Savages. For and About Women. But for the courage and presence of mind of Mrs. Isaac Parr there would Bonin ii Fon and fe rire Feelyrh 2 Jory | have been a terrible wreck on the Fris- Rgerous Journey. omen Who Lroved | oo Road three miles north of Paris, Tex. Her Courage. The distinguished explorer of Austria- Hungary, Dr. Emil Holub, and his wife Mrs. Rosa Holub, are at present visiting and other Western cities, They expect to remain here till Dr. Holub bas given to Afri- can research, to the writing of his books . 1 and to the preparation of the largest col- lections in natural history ever brought resumed his uncle as if he had not! irom Africa by one man, over 20 years of his life. Dr. Holub does not belong to the class of explorers who cover great dis- tances in a year or two, and whose ob- servations, therefore, are necessarily superficial. He is thoroughly scientific in bis training and methods, and he has spent 11 years in South Africa and South Central Africa studying all the aspects of nature between Kimberley and the wild Mashukulumbe north of the Zambesi river. He has published five large volumes on his work in Afri- ca, one of them devoted wholly to birds. He has given enormous collections to European museums from Rome to Stockholw. A BRIDE’S BODY GUARD. In the few weeks since Dr. Holub and his wife arrived in America they have heard sad news from Austria. It is the death of Janos Fekete, a soldier in the Austria-Hungarian army, who was de- tailed to accompany Dr. Holub in his last long journey. He was Mrs. Holub’s faithful servant, a giant in stature and and strength, who carried her through many of the marshes in flooded districts of Africa, and at one time bore her to safety on his shoulders when the party had been surrounded by the most mur- derous natives of Africa who live north of the Zambesi, and whose country has not been penetrated by any other ex- plorer. Mrs. Holub was a young bride when she started with her already famous hus- band for Africa in 1883. They had five European assistants and a splendid out- fit that cost about $60,000. It was a remarkable tour and lasted four years. The plan was to push north from Cape Colony across the Zambesi, explore the unknown land of the Mashukulumbe and then push further north through wholly untrodden districts to the region of the great lakes. In these four years’ strong men in the party dropped and died, but the young bride from Vienna seemed to lead a charmed life. She was not attacked with fever until toward the close of the journey, though for many months she lived in the pestilent region of the Zambesi. It was her good fortune that she was fitted for the life she led more than many a man who has gone to Atrica. SHOOTING FROM HORSEBACK. A woman of fine physique and plent, of pluck and A Mrs. Holub enjoyed the outdoor life. She rode a horse as far north as that animal could be utilized. She was a good shot, and many an animal was brought down b; her rifie while she was chasing at full speed after the game. Her trusty gun was slung over her shoulder for miles at a time, and she killed many of the hundreds of animals whose skins are now mounted in & score of European mu- seums. She wore a dress of stout dark cloth, such as many of our women- mountain-climbers wear. Her white felt hat had a wide brim, and she often carried a sun shade. No onein the par- ty was busier than she. She prepared many of the skins for preservation. A large part of the measurements of ani- mals, people, native huts and other ob- jects that figurein Dr. Holub’s remark- able series of models illustrating Afri- can life and habitations were made by her. Much of the time she attended to the purchase of food from natives, with whom she could drive better bargains than the men folks. She was regarded as a great curiosity by the natives, par- ticularly by the women, who sometimes walked for miles to see the wonderful white woman with the long hair that fell way down her back. They brought her gifts, which were sometimes pre- sented by her awe-struck sisters on their bended knees. At last, after many months of explo- ration and collecting south of the Zam- besi, the party crossed the upper part of that river and entered the land of the famous savages who were known only for their HOSTILITY TO EVERY WHITE MAN who came near them. One of the young men had already died of fever, and, what is rarely seen, a white wom- an’s tears had been shed over the grave of a poor explorer in Africa. Five white men, a white women and a small torce of native carriers were now push- ing through an unknown land of bush and marsh and many rivers among the worst natives in Africa. From the first the Mashukulumbe showed their hostile spirit. Some said the visitors would bring death to everyone in the land. Others pretended that the strangers were simply Marutse who had painted them- selves white and had come to spy out the land. Dr. Holub had always been able to impress the natives with his medical skill, but in this region he found his profession useless. No sick person would take a drop of his medi- cine. Every one would as soon be the target for a spear as to let the doctor touch him. There came a time after the party had ressed far into the country when four arrowing, terrible weeks nearly ended the little expedition. Nineteen porters who had been obtained just outside the Mashukulumbe country deserted Dr. Holub, for they feared that their mortal enemies would kill them if they remain- ed. This left in the party only four white people (for another man had died) and eight native servants. There they were surrounded by hundreds of savages thirsting for their blood. A tragedy seemed inevitable whether they advanc- ed or retreated. The party could not bave lived for an hour if the natives had not been in mortal terror of the white man’s weapons. LED INTO A TRAP. Dr. Holub decided that he would try to reach the lake region to the mnorth- east, where he knew the tribes were friendly and where he could get plenty (Continued on page 6.) | i recently. She discovered a bridge on fire near her home, took a red table cloth and went out to the bridge, where she stood in the bitter cold for nearly two hours before the train arrived. The engine was within forty feet of the burned bridge when it was brought to a halt. Some singularly artistic looking | gowns with short waists are made in wool crepe, and other soft falling ma- terials cut square at the neck, with a wide sash and a bow at one side coming under the bust. The square is trimmed with a jeweled galon, and so is the hem of the slightly trained skirt. Another style is a crossing bodice coming just under the arm where the skirt is sewn, elbow sleeves with rufties below. The arms are thrust through a species of overdress without sleeves made in con- trasting brocade. In another style the bodice is made full, a vandyke belt coming under the bust matching the embroidery round the square neck. The sleeve is a puff to the elbow. French woman have long known that a low bust makes an exquisite contour of figure. Ifit was not natural, they acquired 1t, and the result makes the French figure with its broad shoulders, low small bust and long, slender waist the ideal one for the civilized world. The first woman to be appointed & railroad division surgeon is Carrie Lie- big, who will have charge of the North- ern Pacific at Hope, Idaho. There is no reason in the world why every woman should not wear her hair in a pretty, becoming fashion, says the New York Telegram. The styles are many, affording a wide field for experi- ment, and when by either accident or design a becoming arrangement is effec- ted it should be individualized and then worn in that way all the time. Should a little unusual elaboration be desired, a twist of ribbon round the knot, a bow, or jeweled aigrette placed whers it will show to the best advantage will make all the change necessary, and prove much more satisfactory than an attempt to startle the world by appearing before it in a unique coiffure, which may hap- pen to be in style, but which may be as unbecoming as it is fashionable. One of the prettiest arrangements is known as the rope coil, and is easily constructed as well as generally becom- ing. If the forehead is somewhat high one cannot dispense with a suggestion of bang, and therefore a few short locks fall lightly over the brow. The hair is then drawn back very softly and mid- way on the head itis turned and made into a loop very much like the Psyche knot, about which is made a round out- line. The ends are rolled and twisted. The woman whose ‘crowning glory” is very dark in color should never have it either crinkled or frizzy. If possible it should be worn quite plain, but if that be too trying, loosely waved bands may be used. Blonde and brown haired lassies are at liberty to curl and crimp to their heart’s desire, but they must remember that “bangs are relegated to the past. The mode of to-day permits, when it seems necessary, & soft fringe, but it must be an extremely light and short one, allowing the forehead to show. A pretty example of the crimp and curl ar- rangement is made by carefully parting and waving the hair over the head and drawing loosely down over the ears. At the back it is very softly coiled and the ends turned over in a puff low on the neck, where it is held by a shell or sil- ver dagger. An effective decoration for this is made of two bandeaux of ribbon with a star or crescent of brilliants fast- ened to the one banding the forehead. No woman who studies the art of dress undervalues the black gown. And yet how few wear it with discre- tion. Black becomes fair hair and a bright complexion. The darker woman must relieve it with touches of vivid color. A new model for the handsome black gown which no gentleman’s libra- ry, that is to say, no woman’s wardrobe is supposed to be without is of black velvet stiffened just a bit with crinoline. Inside the skirt, for beauty’s sake, and that same joy all women have in dainty underwear, there should be a pinked out frill of black silk, and the skirt itself should be wide enough to have the sea- son’s sweep of dignity. We don’t cling you know, this winter; we stand on our dignity. There’s a subtle connection between wide skirts and the broidered with jet in quite an open pattern. For a bodice a blouse is very effective, and may be of black and white or red and black checked silk or of a stripe of black and white or black and amber. To wear this same velvet skirt of an evening vou need only substitute a pink or wkite chiffon bodice with your favor- ite flowers. Whatever the material used for an evening costume, chiffon usually enters somewhere into the construction, and a case in which it has not proved a be- coming factor has not yet been found. The fact that the blouse and all other styles in fancy wsists remain in high fashion in Paris is the substance of a re- cent letter from the city. Black silk velvet ribbons are greatly favored as ac- cessories, and are likewise used on some of the finest millinery—in the way of small bonnets, for bows and bands drawn through jewel, jet or steel buck- les. A model housewife will remember that it is a mistaken idea to cover a car- pet with a drugget in the belief that it will save it, as the gennine grinding on the floor is what wears out the carpet, and the protection should come from be- neath and she will save all the scraps of bread, spread them on & plate in a mod- erate oven until perfectly dry, then crush and roll with a rolling pin, sift and putin a jar ready for the many uses to which they may be put. What does not go through the sieve she will roll again, or put in a separate jar for bread and puddings, ete.