+ Denorraic atta Bellefonte, Pa., Jan. 4, 1895. THE PUNCTUATION POINTS. BY JULIA M. COLTON. Six little marks from school are we, Very important, all agree Filled to the brim with mystery, Six little marks from school. One little mark is round and small, But where it stands the voice must fall, At the close of a sentence, all Place this little mark from school : One little mark, with gown a-trailing, Holds up the voice, and never failing, Tells you not long to pause when hailing This little mark at school : If out of breath you chance to meet Two little dots, both round and neat, Pause, and these tiny guardsmen greet— These little marks from school : When shorter pauses are your pleasure, One trails his sword—takes half the meas- ure Then speeds you on to seek new treasure ; This little mark from school: One little mark, ear-shaped, implies, “Keep up the voice—await replies;” To gather information tries This little mark irom school : One little mark, with an exclamation, Presents itself to your observation, And leaves the voice at an elevation, This little mark from school : Six little marks ! Be sure to heed us; Carefully study, write, and read us; For you can never cease to need us, Six little marks from school! —Seclected. I ——————— A FAMILY MATTER. BY ERNEST YARROLD. “Ag we cannot get along together without quarreling,’ said Jack Manly as he arose from the breakfast table, “we had better not speak.” ; “Just as you please, sir,” said his wife, with a bright spot on each cheek and an angry glitter in her eyes. Jack buttoned his overcoat and slammed the door viciously behind him. Thus began the most miserable days the young couple had ever known. Jack Manly was a dry goods clerk in the village of B—. He had been married for three years and loved his wife de- votedly, but had contracted a habit of passing his evenings away from home. Mollie had borne her husband’s neg- lect bravely for a time. Then she lost patience and chided him. Hence the quarrel. It was the first serious rup- ture that had occurred in their married life. “Mollie will have to give in before I do,” said Jack to himself as he walked quickly along in the direction of the store, while the snow crackled under his feet. “Of course I'll forgive her as soon as she opens her mouth, but she began the quarrel, and she must finish it. There's nothing like impressing a woman with your strength of charac- ter. A brief lesson in the virtue of si- lence will do Mollle good.” This reasoning was sufficient to gus- tain Jack during the day, when his work kept him from deeper reflection, but when the time for closing the store came and his thoughts turned toward the usual cheery and sympathetic words awaiting him at home from his “little woman’’—as he lovingly called his wife—affairs began to assume a dif- ferent aspect. Besides, Jack reflected, New Year's day was only a few hours distant. He had calculated on mak- ing a few resolutions. A most cursory review of the past year showed him plenty of room for improvement. Si- lence might be golden in the spelling book, but Jack found it would be im- possible to have his wife's assistance in carrying out his resolve unless he broke it. His heart leaped within him as he drew near to his home and saw the welcome light in the window. It needed all his pride to keep bis mouth shut as be stepped into the cozy dining room. It seemed that the fascinating fates had all arrayed them- selves against him, for Mollie had dressed herself in the dark maroon which set off her brunette complexion to such advantage and which Jack ad- mired so much. Upon the table were all the dishes that tickled his palate. It seemed to Jack that the biscuit, fresh from the oven, had never been so flaky aod tocthsome before. Mollie served his tea with her usual grace. Once she caught his eye with a ques- tioning glance, but she did not speak. When her back was turned, Jack's eyes followed her figure as he thought to himself : “This is the biggest contract I ever undertook.” Bat man is a complex animal sway- ed by varying emotions. Pride came to bis relief. To save himself from showing the weakness which threaten: ed to sweep him off his feet like a flood, he hastily drank his tea and left the houee, cloeing the door very gently behind bim this time, how- ever. “Well, well,” he mutttered, “Mollie is evidently bent on getting the best of me. I'm afraid I'll have to blindfold myself if I win. Jack went down to the grocery and played a game of checkers. He couldn’t get his mind on the game, and he was beaten in a most thorough manner. Then he tried billiards with no better result, the reproachful ques- tioning glance of his wife seeming to follow him everywhere. “I'm afraid the little woman has hoodooed me,” he muttered as he walked homeward under the starlit sky. Perhaps after all, be had been wrong. Night after night he had left Mollie alone in the house and had gone away seeking his own gratifica- tion. He was filled with contrition as he opened the door with his night key and stepped into the hall. If Mollie had been there to meet him with her accustomed caress, he certainly would have ended the suspense. But the ball was dark and silent. Jack thought he heard a light footfall on the stairway. Ile listened, but as the sound was not repeated he covcluded that it was the cat, He did pot feel sleepy, anl eo he went to the dining room aod smoked for awhile in order to quiet his nerves. Mollie would come down to him, be thought, as he paced uneasily | up and down the room, puffing out smoke like a factory chimney. But she did not come, and when he retired at 12 o'clock he listened at the door of her room and thought he heard a sob. He was not sure. It might have been the wind, For three bonrs Jack toss- ed uneasily on his pillow, unable to sleep. He mentally alluded to his luck in terse and rigorous English, At last an idea occurred to him which al- most made him laugh outright, Ten minutes later he was sound asleep. * % * * It was 8 o'clock on New Year's eve Jack stood at a florist’s counter. Said he : “Be sure and deliver that box at my house between 11:30 and 12 o'clock.” “All right, sir,” said the florist. Jack did not leave the house as usual after supper that night. He put his slippered feet on the fender and tried to read a book. Mollie's lips were still sealed. He could hear her in the parlor playing with uncertain and diffident touch upon the piano. How slowly the fag end of the old year drifted into the eternities ! What was that tune Mollie was playing? Oh, yes ; he recognized it. Freighted with the memories of his courtship days, it came floating into the sitting room replete with tender emotion. Mollie did not sing, but the music needed no vocal expression to in- terpret itself to Jack. It was getting to be unbearable. Jack jumped to his feet muttering, “I'll be hanged if the little woman ain’t smarter than I thought she was. Con- found thatboy ! ‘Will he ever come?” He went to the window and looked out. The stars were shining brightly. The old year was dying in regal splen- dor. Suddenly the door bell was pull- ed violently. Jack tiptoed to the foot of the stairs. He heard the door open and his wife say, while his heart beat a tattoo against his ribs : “For me, did you say ?” “Yes'm, if you're Mrs. Manly.” It was a small pasteboard box. Mol- lie looked at it curiously. Then she cut the string which bound the cover and peeping inside saw a tiny white dove with outspread wings as if flying on a message of love. In its little beak was a New Year's card shaped like an olive leaf, decorated with cupids, and on the card was written in her hus- band’s handwriting. Silence may be golden, but your silvern speech is preferable to me. Surely JACK, Jack heard a feminine ejaculation of delight, followed by the sound ofa dress trailing on the staircase. As Mollie reached the foot of the stairs Jack received her with open arms. She raised her face to his and opened her lips to speak, but Jack prevented her from uttering a sound. Just then the villiage church bell with muffled toll broke the silence in a requiem for the old year. TT ——— Fashion of Beards. A Time When Courage Was Needed to Wear Them. The beard and mustache came into fashion among Englishmen so recently that middle-aged folks can easily re- collect when 1t required some courage to lay the razor aside, aud still more to face the world during the initial stages of the result, says the London Standard Toward the close of last century, the second Lord Rokeby endeavored to restore the pointed beard, which went out with the Stuarts. But his country- men would not hear of such an inoo- vation, and recalled the hero of the Gordon riots, who, when he turned Jew, allowed his beard to grow after the almost sacred custom of his co-re- ligionists. Lord Rokeby, therefore, endured to no purpose the scofts of his contemporaries at what one of them described as “the most conspicuous trait of his person.” All England either shaved, or com- promised by permitting a scanty hint of a whisker to grow. Even ‘mutton chops,” regarded in America until lately as the peculiar mark of an Eo- glishman, were not generally adopted by the staider Britons. As for mus- taches, only military men wore them, and, indeed, cavalry officers bad al- most a monopoly of this warlike ap- pendage, The infantry seldom adopted 1t, and many officers of high rank, like Wellington, never wore it at any period of their career. Even Napoleon remained through- out life smooth-faced, and generally plied the razor himself. “Oae born to be a king,” Talleyrand explained to Rogers, ‘has someone to shave him; but they who acquire kingdoms shave themselves.” Naval officers, many of whom are, in common with their men, bearded like the pard—though even they are subject to certain rules in this respect—used to be still more strictly tied down. A mustache, far less a beard, was never seen afloat. The mustaches of foreign sailors never fail- ed to excite the amusement and con- tempt of our blue jackets, just as the bearded lips of a visitor at once stamp- ed him as not to the Island born—he was probably a “Frenchy,” a German waiter, a singer, or a circus rider. Dickens gives expression to this pop- ular prejudice in “Martin Chuzzlewit” when he endows Montagu Tigg with a mustache and the semi-military frog- ged coat then in favor with shady geo tlemen who liked to be addressed as “Captain.” “Him I” was Mark Tap ley’s contemptuous observation : [I could see him a little better if he'd shave himself and get his hair cut. I wouldn't have any such Peter the Wild Boy in my house, not if I was paid race-week prices for it. He's enough to turn the very beer sour.” Yet Dickens himself wore a beard in his latter years. BRITS — Miss Frances E. Willard is the third woman to have the right to write Doctor of Laws after her name. Maria Mitchell, the astronomer, and Amelia B. Edwards, the Ezyptologist, were the i others, For EERE T No Bars or Stone Walls, Restrain a Sense of Liberty of Patients in Penn- sylvania’s—Asylum for Chronic Insane.—All Labor Who Will, and Every Provision Is Made for Comfort.—No Emotional Cases Treated There. Before the fiftieth annual convention of the American Medico- Psychological Association, an organization made up of the medical superintendents of the var- jous insane asylums throughout the country. Dr. 8. Weir Mitchell, the eminent neurologist, delivered an ad- dress, severely arraigning lunatic asy- lums of the United States as they have been and are conducted. The policy of baving cells, locked doors, prison-like walls and barred windows he denounc- ed as outrageous. His scathing criticism of asylums was general. But one institution did he except from his sweeping denunciation. That one was the asylum at Werners- ville, Pa., then the home of over 200 chronically insane persons, all of whom were engaged in the peaceful occupa- tions of farming, grading and general housework. Dr. Mitchell pronounces this institution the most nearly ideal hospital for the treatment of the insane in the country. It is the only one, in fact, where the ideas of the celebrated psychologists are fully carried out. Other prominent physicians who bave made an especial study of the human mind have pronounced the Werners- ville asylum a model institution, and recommend that the method of treat- ment in vogue there be adopted all over the country. IN A VERY DELIGHTFUL SITUATION. That the days of brutality in the treatment of the insane are numbered is shown by a visit to the new Pennsyl- vania State Asylum for the chronic in- sane, which began its good work Sep- tember 5, 1891, on which date it was formally turned over to the State by the commission which had been charged with the selection of a site and the erection of the buildings. Situated in the most beautiful spot of the delighful Lebanon valley, within a few minutes’ ride of Reading, directly on the line of the Lebanon Valley Railroad, a more beautiful home for the sick in mind could not be imagined. There is no haze, no dreary outlook. For 20 miles to the north the eye is charmed by the sight of rich farms, unfolding their wealth of fertility to the very base of the distant Blue mountains. In the rear is the picturesque South mountain range, clothed with a surpassingly love- ly verdure. From one of its hills, Whisco Nisco creek, a clear mountain stream bubbles and sprays on its way to the Schuylkill river. A large stone farm house stands on the grounds in the rear of the hospital. A quaint old grist mill, a frame barn and a small stone dwelling covered with vines, lie on the banks of the creek. While the new buildings were in the course of erection, these roomy old houses were the dwelling places of the patients who were at work there. WHAT A FRIDAY VISIT WILL REVEAL. Friday is the regular visiting day at the institution. Scores of persons take advantage of this every week to investi- gate the workings of this model asylum. Alighting from a Lebanon Valley train at South Mountain, a station a short way trom Wernersville, it is but a few minutes’ walk up a broad planked road to the main entrance of the asylum. Out in the fields workmen have done the ploughing, cutting corn, gathering truits and vegetables and engaged in va- rious other occupations of a farmer's life. If you were to inquire from the first person you meeton you way to the asylum, he would tell you that the men who did the work in the field are, with few exceptions, insane. The few are guards, who act as bosses, but always in a gentle, forbearing way. When you reach the main entrance and get a closer view of the buildings, you will be surprised at their extent, and more especially at their grace and general air of stability. Climbing the granite steps at the threshold you enter a beautitul hallway, and just to your right a luxurious reception room pres- ents itself. You take a seat there, and while you wait for an attendant to show you the way, you look about you and admire the rich furnishings of the room and the vista torough the open door- way. An attendant arrives soon afterward and you are escorted about the various and ~ well furnished rooms of the Ad- ministration building. Then you turn to the right and, crossing to the asy- lum proper by way of an arcade, you reach one of the large sleeping rooms or wards. BODILY COMFORTS WELL PROVIDED FOR. Passing through long corridors by smaller sleeping apartments, all with- out any bars or heavy locks upon their doors, you get a glimpse of lavatories and reception rooms, and then you turn to the rear building. Here it is that the bodily comforts and welfare of the patients have been more particularly the subject of attention. A great dining room spreads out be- fore you. Rows of tables, neatly ar- ranged, quite fill the place. The laun- dry, bake shop, kitchen and hat fac- tories are near by. Men and women are busily working in all these places— ironing or washing clothes, preparing food or doing odd chores. Some of those about are, perhaps, sitting idly on the floor. No one speaks to them, and you might believe they are attendants until informed that they are patients who are shirking work. No one is forced to labor, but it is surprising how soon the listless becomes industrious under the advice of their nurses and through the example set by their fellow unfortu- nates. At 6:30 o’clock each morning break- fast is served. Hvery able-bodied pa- tient is marshaled into the dining room by the nurses and the meal begins at once. Plain but wholesome food is served, some of the female inmates act- ing as waitresses. Before 7 o'clock the meal is ended. Everyone has eaten heartily, for the chronically insane con- dition is remarkable for the excellent appetite it engeiders. An attendant gathers from 6 to 17 of the breakfast. ers into & group, and then begins the march to the doox. NECESSARY PRECAUTIONS HOMICIDE. At the exit stand two watchful nurses with buckets. Into these each patient AGAINST as he passes must drop the steel knife and fork he has just been using at the wable. This is a most necessary precau- tion. Without it a patient predisposed to homicide might readily conceal pieces of cutlery beneath his clothing. With such dangerous instruments in his pos- session the lives of his fellows would be unsafe. The groups of mewn then go out into the fields and the women begin their household work. At noon dinner 18 served, but before that time arrives the prtients are made ready for the meal in the various wash rooms. After dinner the same knife-gathering process beging and again the men go to the fields and the women to their respective duties in the wards, the laundry, kitchen, sewing or bat manufacturing room. Supper is served at 6 o'clock. From then until bedtime, about 8 o'clock, the patients are allowed to roam at will about the grounds, in the corridors or through their respective wards. The large amusement hall on the sec- ond floor, with a seating capacity of 1,000 persons, is to be utilized during the winter by talented persons willing to do something for the amelioration of the sad mental condition of the inmates. Concerts. theatrical entertainments and shows of various kinds will at different times be given. NOT A HEAVY BURDEN ON THE STATE. The asylum is intended to be self- sustaining to a cretain exteat, and so only $2.50 a week is allowed for the care and maintenance of each patient. Careful and judicious management bas made this sum keep everyone of the in- mates in food and clothing. There are now 519 patients in the in- stitution. Nearly everyone, very few excepted, is capable of being cured. If the emotional insane were housed here —that is, those persons who are sub- ject to fits of melancholia and whose eyes in a ‘fine frenzy rolling” seem al- ways to bode evil to all mankind—the hope of a cure would be very small. It is the emotional order of insane, given to violent outbreaks, which calls for a firm hand. The minds of the chronic insane are numbed and dwarfed; those of the emotional, wild and excited. The one craves rest, the other frantic motion. The State of Pennsylvania has gone into its pocket to the extent of $500,000 to purchase and equip this magnificent asylum, with its breathing space of 550 acres of ground, in order that the two kinds of insane could be housed and treated separately. While they were togetber cures were inire- quent and were seldom permanent. With the other five asylums of the State devoted entirely to the cure of emotional insane, the one at Wernersville to the care of chronic cases exclusively, it is hoped that beneficial results will be at- tained. The Administration, or main build- ing, is three stories in height, surmoun- ted by & clock tower very much like that of Independent Hall. The style of architecture is colonial. There are t'/o wings, in which are located 12° wards. The dining room is 109 by 72 feet, and has a seating capacity of 900. There are no locks or bars at the win- dows, and nowhere about the grounds is there a semblance of a stone wall Rail fences alone separate the institu- tion's property from that of nearby farmers. ET TE—— To Preserve Wood from Insects. A French investigator tells us that the trees most attacked by insects are those whose wood contains an abun: dance of starch ; but the dust from the borings of these insects contain3 no starch, He therefore suggests as a way of preserving the wood from the attacks of insects that the starch be taken from the trees by removing the bark some months in advance of cut- ting them. He asserts that by gird- ling the trees high up on the trunk and destroying all branches put out below this girdling the object will be attained. An experiment in this con- nection was made with oak poles. One lot barked a year before cutting, were stored with another lot stripped of the bark as soon as cut, and a third lot that had the bark on. At the end of three years those barked when standing and before cutting were per tectly preserved, those stored with the bark on were much injured, and those that had been stripped after cutting were in a condition between. Another experiment was with oak logs of forty- years’ growth, part of which had been girdled in May and cut the October following, the rest having been barked affer being cut. All were left exposed for three years, when those barked be- fore cutting showed no signs of insect work, but the others were badly in- jured. Another lot barked in May and cut in October were in the same condition as those that have been simply girdled, and with nothing of gain from the extra work. The spring, this investigator thinks, is the best time for the barking or girdling, as the starch will have disappeared by autumn, Professor J. F. Duggon, of the Department of Agriculture, calls attention to these experiments.—Phila- delphia Ledger. CHT He Kept a Diary. March 4 Advertised for new tvpe- writer. $1.50 March 9. Violets for new typewriter .75 March 13. Salary new typewriter 10.00 March 16. Roses for typewriter ~~ 4.00 March 20. Salary Miss Remington 20.00 March 22. Candy for wife and daugh- 60 ter . March 22. Box bon-bons Miss Rem- ington 4.50 March 27. Salary Daisy 40.00 March 29. Theatre tickets and supper at Del’s 19.00 March 30. Sealskin sacque for wife 225.00 March 80. Silk dress wife’s mother 60 March 80. Advertised for young man as typewriter 1.60 TRI —— There are said to be 10,000,000, 000 tons of coal yet unmined in the Monogahela. ——Do you read the WATCHMAN, Dogs That Work for a Living. They Drive the Bellows in Williamsburg Spike and Nail Factories. In several spike and nail factories in Greenpoint a novel use is made of dog- power, says the New York Sun. The dogs work in treadmills which turn large heavy iron wheels, which in turn operate the bellows of the forges. It is only in the smaller shops where the spikes and nails are forged by hand that dog power is employed. There are three of them, all in the same section of Williamsburg. The largest is Peter Kohlmann’s on Lorimer street near Bedford avenue. Six dogs are in use there only one or two working at a time. The dogs go about their work with cheerfulness and alacrity. They are big, heavy fellows of mongrel breed, with a remarkable development of muscle, caused by the vigorous exercise they get. The rim of the wheel which the dog turns is more than a foot in breadth, and it is roughened on the inner side, and padded with sawdust to prevent the dog’s feet from becoming sore. On each side of the broad wheel are two iron cross pieces which form the spokes. Within these two sets of spokes the dog has room to move freely. He is not tied or tastened, and after he has once been put at work no further attention is paid to him until it is time for his re- lief to take his place. A dog lacking in conscientiousness could jump out and run away. On each side of the wheel’s hub is a crank one and a half feet long, carrying an iron bar. One of these bars goes to the lower arm of a bellows on one side of the room, and the other to another bellows opposite. The cranks are set in opposite directions, so that the fires are blown in alternation. Further back in the room there is another slightly smaller wheel connected with but one forge. Only the larger wheel was in opera- tion yesterday. It was sufficient, how- ever, to keep four men busy, two at each forge. The wheel turns slowly, and the dog has only to keep up a fair- ly brisk walk. «That dog in there now,” said the manager, goes a little too fast. ‘He blows the fire up too much. That can’t be helped, though, for you can’t slow a dog down any more than you can hurry him up. A dog has his natural gait, just the same as a man has. We don’t work our dogs very hard, because we've got so many of them. They work about an hour at a time, and get in about two hours a day altogether. When it is time to change we simply call another dog, and he gets in and the first gets out.” Going over to the idle wheel the manager called out, ‘Here, Rover.” Rover jumped in and started briskly off without more ado. The draught sent the dead ashes flying in the forge. The dog evidently thought he was in for an hour's work, and the manager had to stop the wheel with his hand before he comprehended that he was only a show- ing off. The training of the dogs takes ordi- narily only a couple of hours. The dog is put in the wheel, and the trainer bends down in front of him and beguiles him with offers of a bone and an en- couraging ‘Hey, good dog,” into an at- tempt to get the bone by walking up the rim of the wheel. A dog of ordi- nary intelligence sees the point after a little and accepts the work as a matter of course. «There is nothing cruel in this work,” said the manager, ‘if the dogs are well taken care of, as they are here. You can see what good condition they are in. Of course it isn’t the right thing to do to work a dog and starve him too.” «T'11 tell you a curious thing, I live right back of the shop, and every once in a while I wake up in the night and hear the bellows going. The dogs sleep here, and they get to fooling around in the night and start the wheels going.” J.J. Leibfried has three dogs in his factory at No. 99 Guernsey street. None of them were at work yesterday. At Main’s factory, on front street, the dogs were in pretty good condition. AT The Most Wonderful Oil Well. The giant of all the oil gushers was at Baku, on the Aspheron Peninsula in the Caspian Sea. The oil stratum was suddenly penetrated and almost instant- ly the derrick and other drilling ap- paratus were blown to pieces by the rush of gas. Following close upon the gas came a terrific blast of oil and sand, the like of which has never before or since been known. Kfforts to check the enormous flow were equally as futile as those made to ‘‘plug’’ the mouth of the great artesian well at Belle Plaine, Io, a few years ago. During the 60 days which followed the tapping of the old stratum, it is estimated that not less than 120,000,000 gallons of oil and 5, 000,000 tons of sand were disgored by the spouting monster. Great lakes and pools of oil covered the plains in all di- rections from the well and three or four creeks and rivers of the same fluid fur- nished an outlet into the sea. and thus preveted a veritable inundation. With- in & month the site of the well looked m. re like a volcano than anything else which it could be compared to. The shifting winds bad caused the giant oil jet to first deposit its load of sand on one side and then on the other, until a regu- lar Pompeiian calamity bad overtaken all the building, hoisting apparatus, derrick, ete., within a radius of 200 yards, burying the tallest of them en- tirely out of sight. This volcano of oil- mixed sand had a regular crater of cen- tral orifice through which the sand and oil escaped and daily and hourly added to the mass. Fears of an explosion caused the autborities to issue edicts de- manding that the people extinguish all fires within an area of five miles, and providing heavy fines even for the crime of lighting a pipe within the ‘‘dead- line” The geyser was struck during the first week of September 28, when an inventor backed by the Russian Gov- ernment succeeded in controlling it, but not until after it had spent the greater part of its fury. During the first 100 days, the Russian expert estimates, it vomited forth over 500,000 tons of oil. CT A—————— — Subscribe for the WaTcEMAN, that struck at a depth of only 570 teet |- EE Spe For and About Women. It is rather interesting to know in view of the fact that one of the chief reasons advanced for the disfranchise- ment of woman is their incapacity for war, that the spherical shape of the bullet is the result of a woman's ex- periments. And though women have not much of a reputation for success in inventing, some of the most important and useful inventions have been made by them. Catherine Littlefield Greene, widow of General Greene, of revelu- tionary memory, perfected the cotton gin after Eli Whitney, who happened to be boarding with her, and who made the original design, had given it up asa bad job. The light and convenient paper pail was invented by a Chicago woman, and the valuable gimlet-pointed screw was the idea of a little girl, An im- proved wood carving machine, & fur- nace for smelting ore, a chain elevator, a deep sea telescope, a screw crank for steamships, a fire-escape, a wool feeder and weigher, a spark arrester for loco- motives and a signal rocket used in the navy have all been invented by wo- men. The device in use on the New York Elevated Road for deadening the noise of the trains and which Edison had been asked to take into consider- ation was made by a woman. The first step toward the revival of the bustle has been taken. This is shown in the new organ-pipe skirt. Tt is the skirt of the season, and resembles in a marked degree the bustleof the past. The skirt is very full, lined with haircloth and arranged in four or two box plaits at the back. These plaits stand out prominently and are padded ten inches from the waist line. Over the hips the skirt fits with glove like smoothness flaring toward the bottom. Only the sleeves. If you have them right you need not worry about the rest of the costume. After the economical, sensible girl has decided upon her win- ter sleeves, she turns her attention to her collars and collarettes. Those are really the only parts of her costume that re- quire much thought. The careless, ex- travagant creatures have a few extras, such as jeu and fur skirt trimmings, and blouse pearl and braid effects , but the sensible girl eschews all such, and de- votes herself to sleeves and necks. «Shall I wear my sleeves to-night?” hositatingly asked one girl of another. By “sleeves,” you must know, she re- ferred to a simple black gown, whose only trimmings were huge sleeves and crush stock of the latest purple velvet. The outlay for the sleeve material was $10 ; that for the black of the dress con- siderably less. Therefore the costume became simply a matter of sleeves,” and was never designated in any other fashion. But it is of collets and shoulder trim- mings T would prate. They follow the sharp and clear-cut style of the winter maid, punctuated in her Veandyke fash- ion. A velvet and heavy Venetian point combination gives the key to al- most all of her creations. It is a pretty mirror velvet, of pale sage green, fall- ing over each shoulder in a not-full rufle. Each ruffle is edged with a heavy Venetian lace—a Vandyke form- ed of five or six rows of small points. In front there is no velvet, only a yoke of the lace, cut in a large, broad point. Of course, the collar is crush, with head- ngs sticking out here and there. How do you put on your veil ?—if vou wear one. It is wide and long, and must be arranged with care to give it the correct droop. If you do the proper thing there are a few inches gathered right in the center of the top edge, and | this is daintly caught with a fancy pin to your velvet hat. Both ends are also gathered, and theretore you have no difficulty in catching them together evenly. The first thing one notices in the fancy bodice of the hour is that all sleeves droop down and outward, and that there is a growing tendency to create a slight blouse effect at the waist in front. From the throat, at times, will hang huge collars of lace or velvet, made to flare out like a skirt. Another dainty waist of white chini silk, scat- tered with the shadowy ghosts of pinks, perhaps, will have square bretelles of lace projecting from the arm holes over the sleeve tops. If you are to be fashionable, at least one gown of perforated cloth must be yours. Or the gown may be of mousse- line de soie, velvet or chiffon —that mat- ters little as long as the fabric is sprink- led with tiny holes. The “perforated” craze is at its height. An imported walking costume showing all the latest frills. The material is dark brown Vi- cuna cloth. The crinoline-lined skirt has the most approved flare. Each gore is defined by a broad line of perforation showing sage-green silk beneath. The tight-fitting bodice is made of the green silk, over which is a draped jacket of the perforated cloth. The green velvet stock appears to be fastened at both sides by round steel buttons. The enor- mous sleeves are fashioned of the open- work cloth, with an inserted puff on the silk. ess Beautiful as the fall novelties were they will be in the background com- pared to the reign that black will have. There will be at leastsix black costumes sold to every three of colors. In milli- pery the proportion in favor of black will be greater, say: a leading modiste. Outside of tailor gowns in Scoteh tweeds and covert cloths the main glimpse of color will be in the fancy waist. Skirts of black satin with small brocade de- signs and made in bell shapes will be worn with these waists. Soft, light. weight woolen goods in blended colors, having a blurred effect, will be made up for the same purpose. A pretty woman will be able to keep her charm if she consumes less starch, glue and mucilage than the gourmand. Eliminate from the bill of fare rice, oatmeal, wheat, bananas, potatoes, peas, gelatine and beans, and give the sys- tem the benefit of a complete change of diet. Eat boiled or fried hominy with meat; have brown or graham breaa and juicy fruits, stewed onions, tomatoes anil squash.