saved me! Bellefonte, Pa., Sept. 28, 1894. r— THE TELEGRAM. “Ig this the telegram office ?” Asked a childish voice one day, As I noted the click of my instrument, With its message from far away. As it ceased, I turned ; at my elbow Stood the merest scrap a boy. Whose childish face was all aglow With the light of a hidden joy The golden curls on his forehead Shaded eyes of the deepest blue, Asif a bit of the summer sky Had lost in them its hue. They scanned my office rapidly, From ceiling down to floor, Then turned.ea me their eager gaze, As he asked the question o'er. “Is this the telegram office ?” “It is, my little man,” I said. “Pray tell me what you want, And I'll helpyou if I can.” Then the biue eyes grew more eager, And the breath came thick and fast; And I saw within the chubby hands A folded paper grasped. «Nurse told me,” he said, “that the lightnicg Came down on the wires some day ; And my mamma has gone to heaven, And I'm lonely since she's away ; For my papa is very busy, And hasn't mueh time for me, So I thought I'd write her a letter, And I’ve brought it for you to see. “I've printed it big, so the angels Could read out. quick her name And carry it straight to my mamma, And tell her how it came; And now, won’t you please to take it, And throw it up good and strong Against the wires in a funder shower, And the lightning will take it along.” Ah! what could I tell the darling? For my eyes were filling fast; I turned away to hide my tears, But I cheerfully spoke at last. “I'll do the best I can, my child,” sTwas all that I could say, “Thank you,” he said, then scanned the sky, “Do you think it will funder to-day ?” But the blue sky smiled in answer, And the sun shone dazzling bright ; And his face, as he slowly turned away, Lost some of its gladsome light. “But nurse,” he said, “if I stay so long, Won't let me come any more ; I So goo-bye ; I'll come and see you again, Right after a fander shower.” — Ashton Reporter. TO STO BER NEW SITUATION. By Losing One Place She Got Another and Was Made Happy. “Dear me,” said Mrs, Pell; “what is the matter with Carrie?’ Ain’t sick, is she 2” Mrs. Pell had come up to her lodg- er's room to borrow a dust-pan. Lite among the poor—tenement-house life, al least—is all give and take; and Mrs. Pell borrowed dust-pan and egg- beaters, just as Mrs. De Rifter, of up- per Fifth avenue, would borrow a piece of music, or Miss Waldergrave the last new novel. The Beltous had only lately come to the house. They were very poor, yet Mrs. Pell somehow respected an intangible essence of ladyhood that hovered about them. They had no carpet on the floor, yet it was always clean; the curtains were made of ‘cheesecloth’ at four cents a yard ; the bed on which the mother and daughter slept assumed the similitude of a stained pier-wardrobe by day. The cooking was done on a kerosene stove in the corner, and Mrs. Pell dis- covered that Mrs. Belton did floss-silk embroidery on flannel for infants’ wardrobes, while Carrie was one of the attendants in Muller & Cos dry goods store on Broadway. “I knowed they was genteel,” said Mrs. Pell, *‘the minute I set eyes on em. Mrs. Belton’s dress is shabby, and Mrs. Hourie, the grocer’s wife, on the first floor, wears hers somehow dif- ferent; and Carrie's bonnet is plain black straw, with loops of green rib- bon, but it's a great deal more ladyfied than Susan Jane Hawley's pink crape, with the red feathers and the Rhine- stone daggers stuck in it.” But to-day Carrie was crying, and Mrs. Belton with her floss-silk em- broidery pushed to one side, was try- ing to comfort her. “No,” said Mrs. Belton, “she ien’t sick, but—"' “I’m discharged,” said Carrie, sud denly, straightening berself up. “I’ve lost my place. One of the customers brought a point-lace handkerchief to the store to match it in flounces, and she couldn’t find it afterward, and—" “I know,” said Mrs. Pell, “I had a niece once In one 'o them big stores, and you can’t teach me much about em. The gals is sacrificed right straight along to the customers’ whims. It was laid to you, of course.” “And | may consider myself lucky, they tell me,” cried our indignant Car- rie, “that I am not arrested and put in prison. Ouly ‘previous good conduct’ But I consider that I have been insulted and aggrieved. I—" © MCarrie! Carrie!” gently soothed the mother. Aud Carrie's passionate words died away in a flood of tears. “But what are we to do?" she cried, “How are we to live? No one will take me in after this. It would be no use for me to try and get a situation. “God will provide, Carrie,” whis pered Mrs. Belton. At that moment there came a sharp tap at the door. “Is the young lady ready for the place out in Orange county ?" asked a gruff voice. “Mr. Jessup’s wagon is at thedoor. That's me. And he’s a waiting.” “La me!” said Mrs. Pell, starting up. “I clean forgot all about it. Name of Jessup? Louisa Olcott, she’s dreadful sorry, but her uncle ain't willing, on sober second thoughts to let her go out of the city. They've gone to Coney Island and—" “Ain't that the young woman?” said Mr. Jessup, nodding his head to- ward Carrie Belton as he stood in the doorway. “Certainly not,” siid Mrs. Pell, bristling up. “This is the floor above the Olcott rooms.” “No oftense, ns, offens: 1” said Mr. Jessup. “But what be I going to do? My wife calculatzd on my bringing “home hired help, and I dunno nothing about your intelligence offices, Aad the train goes at 11.” “What sort of a place is it?’ asked Carrie, suddenly turning around. “Gineral housework,” said the old farmer, leaning agaiost the side of the door. “A little of everything. Sort of handy woman about the place. Jest exactly the sort of work our dar- ter would have done if she'd lived to grow up. Four dollars a week and a good home. I dunno what you think of it, but it seems to me a pretty fair offer.” “Mother,” said Carrie breathlessly. “J have a great mind to go, if—if Mr. Jessup will take me.” “And glad of the chance,” said the old farmer, cheerfully. “I don’t know much about housa- work,” went on Carrie. “My woman'll teach you,” said the farmer. “She'd be doing it herself it | it wasn't for the rheumatism in her back. And you look like one who would be quick and active to learn.” “And I know all about her,” said Mrs. Pell ; “and I tell you, Mr. Jessup she’s a good, trustworthy girl as ever lived.” “] could jedge as much as that by her looks,” said Mr. Jessup. shrewdly. So Carrie Belton steered her little life-bark into this new current. # She had been a week at the Jessup farm before she wrote home to her mother. “Dear Morner :—I am the bappi- est girl in the world. This is a lovely place—all apple orchards and mead- ows knee-deep in red clover and timo- thy grass. I help to milk the cows every night, and the lambs and chick- ens know me already. Mrs, Jessup is the kindest old lady you ever knew! All she is afraid of is that I will do too much. Frank—that is her nephew, who lives here and helps Mr. Jessup with the farm—brings in all the wood and water, and is always asking what he cau doto help me. I suppose I ought not to call him ‘Frank,’ but every one does, and go it seems natu- ral. All that troubles me mother,’ is to be separated from you, and I have such a delightful plan. It was Frank that first thought of it, and Mr. and Mrs. Jessup do not object. There is one wing of the old farmhouse that is used only for a storeplace—two de- lightful rooms with a great fireplace big enough for a whole colony, and windows looking out on the river. They are a little out of repair, to be sure, but I can easily whitewash and repair, them, with Frank's help, and you are to come up and live there. And all the rent Mrs. Jessup will ac- cept is a little dressmaking now and then—such as you are handy with— for her poor old finger joints are stift- ened with rheumatism, aod she can- vot hold a needle. And you can go into the city with your embroidery every week or two ; the fare is not so very much, and you can breathe in the smell of the new mown hay and gather wild flowers and sweet briar. And oh, mother darling, we shall be 80 happy!” Mrs, Belton read the letter through tears of delight. “It will be like heaver,” she said to herself. “My dear, thoughtful child! But I wonder who this ‘Frank’ is. I wonder if she knows how often her thoughts and her pen turn to him? He must be good if he is with these kind people” She went out to the old farm. Car- rie met her at the station in a wagon, with a handsome, sunbrowaed young man holding the reins. “This is Frank Jessup, mother!” she said, with a radiant face. The two rooms were in perfect order. A bunch of roses stcod on the bureau, and summer evening though it was, a fire of logs burned within the deep, smoke-blackened chasms of the an- cient chimney, casting red reflections on the newly papered walls—‘for fear it should be damp,’ said Carrie. And the first real home feeling which they had kaown for years came, like the brooding wings of a dove, oyer the hearts of mother and daugh- ter, as they sat side by side on the doorstep under the green apple boughs and the sound of a brook gurgled along beneath the willows beyond. * * * * * The blackberries on the edge were ripening ; the roses had blown away, drifts of pink, aud the early apples were beginning to gleam like spheres of gold through the leaves, when Car- rie came into the wing room’ one eve- ning with a pale face. “Mother,” said she, “I must go away from here. You must go with me.” : “Carrie!” “Frank Jessup has asked me to be his wife.” “I thought he would, Carrie; I knew that he loved you,” said Mrs. Belton with innocent pride. “And no wonder !”’ “I told him about the lace handker- chief that they accused me of steal ing!” whispered the girl. “What did he say, Carrie ?" “He said he did not care—he want. ed me all the same.” “And you ?” “Mother, I told him I never could let the cloud which has darkened my owa life overshadow his.” “Bat Carrie, if he loves you"'— “All the more reason that I should ys him this humiliation, eaid the girl. And when Mrs. Belton looked at her set face she knew that all remonstrance was in vain. . “We must go away,” said Carrie “Tt will be like tearing the heart out of wy breast, but there is only one thing to do.” And she burst into sobs and tears on her mother’s shoulder. “Hush I" said Mrs. Belton, “hush my darlinz! Some one is coming up the walk! It is a woman with a shawl and a green parasol and an ecru dress trimmed with garnet bands. Why, Carrie, it is Mrs. Pell, our old landlady I” “Yes, its me,” said the landlady of the Judith street tenement house. ‘ “How de do? Surprised to see me, , ain't ye? Well if this 'ere ain’t a pretty place! Bat I sort o’ felt as if I had to come. Muller's shop-walker he was to the house yesterday. The firm sent for him. They are short ’o hands, and they want Carrie to come to the lace counter again. The lace handkerchief that made all the trouble ig found. The dressmaker found it down in the folds of the young lady's apron skirt when she ripped it apart last week. It had slipped down into the linin’,: and there it lay. The young lady’s dreadful sorry about it, too!" Carrie's face’ had grown: bright. “Found, is it ?” she said. “Mother, give Mrs. Pell a cup of tea. Don’t you see how tired she looks? I will go back to where Frank is waiting for me. I—I think this will be good news for him.” Mrs. Pell stayed all night and went back to the city with a monster bunch of pinks and roses next day, but Miss Belton did not go back to the lace counter at Muller & Co's. Mrs. Pell dryly informed the shop- walker that she believed the young lady had accepted another engage- ment, . OA SHAABAN Trapping the Terrapin. The Demand Has Sent the Price From $6 to $70 a Dozen.—A Dainty Dish of Diamond Backs.— The Aristocratic Easily Distinguished by a Connoisseur.— Cooking as Important as Catching. The American people, who above all others know what good living is and how to appreciate it, were un- doubtedly the principal medium of introducing to the world “Misyah Taarpin,” as the colored people love to call him, and who smack their lips as the name passes through. Terra. pin is now well known all over the civilized world, and the terrapin of the United States has been unhesitatingly awarded the palm for delicacy and general excellence. Every one knows the terrapin by sight but it is safe to say that there are scores who are not acquainted with its cultivation or habits, for that is a trade gecret that the farmers are chary of talking abont to outsiders. The lar- gest and most important farm in the Chesapeake district is on the Patuxent, and consists of a salt water lake, which has been surrounded by a broad fence to keep out the muskrats and foxes, these being the chief enemies of the terrapin. With this exception, they appear to need little care other than duly feeding them at fattening time; but what they do rot require in care they make up in trouble of capturing, for they are as wily as woodchacks, and that is saying a good deal. Forty years ago they were as plentiful in the waters of Carolina, Maryland and Vir- ginia as the European soldier said flees were in Spain, and they were in those days principally taken in oyster dredg- es, the first really large catch being credited to John Ethridge, of Body’s Island, who in ten days’ fishing caught over 2,000 terrapin and sold them in Norfolk market for about $400. EXTIRPATION OF THE WILD TERRAPIN. This was the birth of the terrapin industry, for he immediately returned to the spot dredged out 2,000 more and sold them in Baltimore for $350. These sales became known and the ex- tirpation of the wild terrapin com- menced, > many being obtained that for some winters they were sold at Southera points for $2 a dozen. Oh the sin of it! In those days the terra- pin ran in schools of several hundred, but the constant chasing soon broke these up, and it was not long before the deep water oyster dredges ceased to bring up a paying quantity. Then it was found that the chelonia sought shallow waters as the weather became cold, and a number of improvements on the oyster dredge proper soon came into use, and eventually artificial prop- agation, or farming, came into vogue as a stable industry. Still there is quite a good deal of outside hunting done, and there is no better fun in the summer than to ac- company a good terrapin hunter who knows his ground and is fairly sure to make a respectable bag. Some of these men do not commence operations until the fall. They then dig long, shallow ditches on the flats, and when the tide gets low they patiently scratch the bottom with thornes or rakes until it is all covered with a creamlike mud or paste. When the tide comes in it does not stay long nor does it bring many terrapin, but it brings a few, and it stays long enough to let the terrapin find the soft bottom and understand that they have strack a “soft snap ;” in other words, a grod place for them to burrow and spend the winter in. Each succeeding tide brings more, the mud is kept soft be- tween times, and 80 it is not long be- fore the working hunter has got quite a good nursery together. Then when the winter comes along the hunter goes down to his preserve with a hay- fork an1 pushes it into the mud until it strikes something, and 82 keen is his sense of touch that he can tell in a moment if it be a stone or a terrapin, and if it be the latter he digs it out and puts it in his basket. DOGS USED TO HUNT THEM. It is, however, in the summer that the amateur terrapin hunter wants to take his experimental trip, unless he is a born eport and enjoys the cold and dirt and discomforts as part of the pro- gramme, and there are many who ap- pear to do so. Inthe sammer the ter- rapin around the Chesapeake Bay are hunted with dogs, as partridges are with a setter or pointer, and a good “terrapin dog’ 1s worth $100, and takes a grod six months to train. They are very sagacious and appear to thoroughly enjoy themselves. About the time the chelonia leaves the water to deposit its eggs, the dogs are turned out to rang: along the water edge until they strike the trail of a tur- tle. A dog must be able to tell if it be an old trail or a new one. If old he must just sniff and pass along, like a terrier at an old rabbit earth ; but if it be an a fresh one, he must follow it up, the terrapin. it to hold it down, be barks until be at- tracts his master to the spot to secure it effectually and then starts off again. A well-trained animal will catch 50 a day, and these are then sold to pound keepers unless the hunter has a pound of hisown, where they are kept until winter, and then recaught and sold. It was this practice that first evolved the practical farm method. This was dae to the outcry raised by the fish commissioners on acccunt of the num- ber of pests destroyed and eggs ren- dered useless. But notwithstanding that the outcry established farms it did not top the dog hunters, who are in as strong force to-day as ever they were. It is a luscious morsel, and worthy of all reverence, for be it known the best preparers ot terrapin are artists ; that even Delmonico’s dish is not sup- posed to equal that of Augustine, of Philadelphia, which costs $5 per quart about enough for two people, supple- mented with a “dry’’ and not too cold “hottle.” The best variety is undoubt- edly “Terrapin a la Maryland,” and this is the mdst popular and best known style. To make this, put a handful of salt into a pot of boiling water ; put in the terrapin and boil un- til the skin slips off easily from the claws ; take off the claws, skin, en- trails and the sand bag; great care must be taken in cutting the liver not to break the gall ; the eggs and egg bag are to be used. When picked, put on the fire and add a little sherry or Madeira (say half a teacupful for three fair-sized terrapin), and putin a good-sized piece of butter. Beat up the yolks of four eggs with flour to make a batter, and add a little wine, then pour the sauce of the terra- pin into the egg batter, put on the fire, and add seasoning of cayenne and salt. Let it stand a minute or two to cook the flour, and add wine and butter, un- til the proper taste is given. Experi ence must do the rest, for there are no other directions possible. After all, perhaps it is better to buy the prepared terrapin, and be sure to have it good and all correct, for it is practically no saving of cash to make it one’s self, and one risks spoiling a dish fit for the gode. Twenty years ago terrapin in Wash. ington cost $6 per dozen, and now ex- tra fine ones often sell for that each. Senator J. M. Clayton, of Delaware, once bought a cartload for $1. After the surrender of Yorktown, Washing- ton, Lafayette and Cornwallis, sat down to a supper of terrapin, believing no doubt, that if anything could drive away hard thoughts, and cement fu- ture friendship, it was that same terra- pin that our best judges of culinary ef- forts are so fond of to-day, and for which they are willing to pay such steep prices to get the right thing. —A. T. Vance. A New ‘Offense, The young woman who shocked the high moral susceptibilities of the Broad- way paraders the other evening, by lighting her cigarette and smoking it in the electric light of publicity, has pre- cipitated a new moral issue on the me- tropolis. The city which accepts Tam- many polities with equanimity and rather plumes itself on the pace of lite in the Tenderloin precinct was horror- stricken at the sight of a woman smok- ing a cigarette on the street. One high- ly moral journal lays down the principal that ‘the laws should deal severe- ly with her when she is caught.” It does not seem to occur to these censors of female manners that, before the law can deal severely with a woman for smoking on the streets, there must be a law forbidding the obnoxious act. Inasmuch as masculine smokers com- mit the act without interference on the streets of New York as on those of other cities, it is presumed that there is no such law. If the shocked moral sense of New York should set the Legislature to supplying that deficiency, reason would be apt to raise the question what there is about the nature of tobacco that makes its public use entirely permissible in men, but a shocking violation of good orderin women. It is calculated to puzzle the most astute moral philoso- pher to show why man may smoke and be respected and woman may not smoke in public without falling into the clutches of outraged propriety personi- fied by the New Y ork police courts. The peculiarity of the case is height- ened by the fact that the same journals which hold up horrified hands at the sight of a woman smoking a cigarette on Broadway have recently published statements that cigarettes have become really the correct thing in the boudoirs of women of fashion. It is possible that these reports were largely the product of the imagination ; but after pointing out the fashion is it not rather unreason- able for our cotemporaries to rise up in virtuous indignation at the one woman who follows it ? Or is it the theory that immorality consists entirely in be- ing seen at it, and that which is awful in public is all right if kept reasonably secret. We hape that the women of America will not take to smoking either in pri- vate or in pubiic, being restrained there - from simply by their own preference. But if Draconian law undertakes to abridge the right of the sex to do that which man may do undisputed, it will be likely to drive the independent Am- erican women into smoking as a nece:- sary act of self-assertion. Knew George Sand Well. Colonel James Russell Lowell tells the story that one of the gentlemen he met in Chicago had a great deal to say of his travels in Europe. Colonel Low- ell remarked that he greatly enjoyed the French literature and that George Sand was one of his favorite authors. “Oh, yes,” exclaimed the Chicago gentleman, ‘I have had many a happy hour with Sand.” “You knaw George Sand, then?” asked Colonel Lowell, with an expres- sion of surprise. “Knew him ?”’ Well, I should rather say I did!” cried the Chicago man, and then he added as a clincher, **I roomed with him when I was in Paris.—Chica- go Record. : no matter where it leads, until he finds | Then putting his foot on | Killing Fish With Dynamite. The Slaughter So Extensive in the Potomac That It Is Alarming. The amateur rod and line fisherman are up in arms over the illegal fishing in the upper Potomac, which threat- ens to put an end to the sport. The past season has been a very unsuccessful one for the holders of the rod and line, poorer than any previous year, in fact. This is attributed to 1l- legal fishing in the river, in violation of the law of not only the District, but of Maryland and Virginia. A regular warfare has been inaugurated, and from the way in which the fish are now being taken from the river it will not be long before fishing will be a thing of the past. The latest way of catching fish on a large scale is with the aid of dyna- mite. The men who make use of this pursue their work as quietly as possi- ble so as to escape detection. The night time is best for their purpose, as few people are likely to be around, out- side of residents of the neighborhood. A dynamite cartridge of good size is lowered into the river until it strikes the bottom. Connected with the car- tridge is an electric wire, and as soon as the bottom is struck the electrical current is turned on and discharges the cartridge. There is no concussion or vibration felt on land, but in the water the effect is wonderful, the con- cussion being sufficient to kill all the fish for 500 feet or more around. The dead fish will rise to the surface, and with large nets the men who have charge ot the work dip them up and fill the boat. All of the different spe- cies of fish in the water are killed by the concussion, from eels and catfish to bass and rockfish. The large number of fish which come floating down the river causes much wonderment along the wharves. While there are plenty of catfish and eels, there are not infrequently good species of rock and black bass, which would have delighted any amateur fisherman who might have been suc- cessful enough to land them, It is a well known fact that the blasts at the quarries on the upper Potomac oftea kill a large number of fish but the great quantity of fish which came down the stream convinced the people that all the fish were not killen at the quarries. A quiet investigation was begun, which developed the fact that dyna- mite was used. Some of the amateur fisherman of Georgetown, who have had extremely poor luck for several weeks past, spent one entire night last week investigating the matter. The scene of the carnage and slaughter was found to be within the district line, and within 100 feet of the west side of the Chain Bridge. Under cover of the darkness the illegal fishermen steer their boat in the swift water until near the center of the stream, when they begin the work of destruction. Many of the fish killed in this manner find their way to the city markets, Words vs. Work. General Hastings is now fairly em- barked upon his campaign of spzech- making and with his powerful voice and pleasing platitudes he will for the time arouse enthusiasm among the loy- al Republicans, But he will accomplish little except in the ranks of the dyed-in- the-wool members of his party. The people who give thought to political and economic questions are not to be carried away by vivid word pictures, General Hastings will not be able to persuade them that the McKin ley tariff was an unmixed blessing and that the new tariff is the root of wide- spread desolation, for they see every- where evidences of recovery from the blighting effects of the high protective tariff and they know this improvement in trade must be ascribad to the Demo- cratic tariff policy. Appreciating this they will cast their ballots for that early. aggressive and consistent advocate of tariff reform, Wm. Singerly. When others hesitated he boldly declared himself and wielded his great infinence against oppressive taxation, never once retreating from the advanced position he had taken. When from every industry comes the promise of increased activity as a result of the adoption ot gariff reduction, the people will feel that it were best to place at the head of the government of this state one who is, as he is, in sympathy with the new revenue bill and will vote for Mr. Singerly for governor. There will not be the same amount of speech-making or the same explosion of fireworks during the next month by Mr. Singerly and his friends as will mark the route of the R:publican candi- date, but there will be don? an immense amount of thinking that will lead to the support of the practical and successful business man and tha patriotic citizen, Wm. M. Singerly.— Valley Spirit. It Was a Big Mistake. “Many men have been taken for somebody else of prominence, but I doubt if any but myself can boast of having been mistaken for the Angel Gabriel,” said Senator Palmer to a re- porter. ‘It was this way: While I was Military Governor of Kentucky a disturbance occurred in some town in the interior, I was in another. There was no train, no saddle horse, no buggy nor carriage. The only sort of vehicle available was a big zilded circus chariot left by some stranded show company. I didn’t like it, but there was nothing else, and in I got. I cut a great dash as I drove through the small town. People turned out in droves to see me pass. When I left the town behind and reached the plantation the negroes saw me and started with open mouths. They followed me, keeping at some dis- tance, for they had never seensuch a splendid vehicie. They kept on until after awhile they were joined by an old white-haired preacher, who on seeing me and my gilded chariot. raised his arms on high, and his eyes, too, and with a voice that stirred all within hearing, cried “Bress de Lord, de day ob judgment am cum, an’ dis gen’l’man am de Angel Gabriel hisself. Bredren, down on yo’ knees an’ pray, fo’ yo’ hour am byar.” For and About Women. The president of Taylor College at Bryn Mawr, a woman, Miss Mary C. Thomas, who has succeeded a man, Dr. Rhoades, still occupies a fine stone building at the place known as ‘The Deanery,” and gives her ‘‘evenings’”’ there, to which she invites a select liter- ary coterie. The college is under Quak- er control, and Miss Thomas is the daughter of a minister of the Society of Friends, buat she is broad and catholic in her tastes, and one of her most inti- mate frinds, who frequently takes part in ber literary-social meetings, is Miss Agnes Repplier, who 1s a devoted mem- ber of the Roman Catholic Church. The seams in the skirts of cloth and serge gowns are stitched once or twice on each side, making two or four rows stitching, or if ladies’ cloth is used, a band of cloth an inch wide is stitched over the seams. On black moire skiris overlapping jet sequins are used in place of stitching. Thus far we have learned nothing de- finite. Instead of five, you may put seven gores in your skirt. You muy stiffen it a little more, you may bh 1d your organ pleats at the back of the skirt in place by means of rubber bands, you may trim your skirt with narrow diagonal bands, you may draw it a little more closely about the hips, and spread it more at the feet, you may add a few more inches to the already ample fullness of your sleeve. Some of the mod- els from Paris suggest trimmings both above and below the waist line. A sort of surplice effect on some, made with a sash ; or a doublet of velvet en- circling the body, standing in pleas, above the waist up to the bust. Then, below the belt, flat panier effect in long narrow points. This is a step further, it may be, in the direction of a widen- ed waist; and the natural waist may be tbe wrinkle before long. Flat effects are ohservable in many of the trimmings. Not only are skirts trimmed with narrow diagonal bands, but the seven gored skirt has each of its seams strapped and stitched ; and of course the coat bears the same finish. Narrow jets, gallons and passementeries are used ; but all are quiet and unob- trusive. Large buttons are the only marked feature of the trimming. They catch revers, or fasten the double breasted coat, or trim the flat bands on the skirt. The plain undraped skirt will be the favorite this winter, as the overskirt has not proved as popular as was expected, there being very few modistes who could manage the double arrangement gracefully as the less complicated form. Flat folds and bands are used preference to fluffier trimmings,. but what the skirt lacks in beruffled fullness the bodice amply makes up in its extra dressiness, as there is no ornamentation missing as far as that is concerned. The sleeves are not quite as large as formerly, but make up for width in the matter of greater length, coming down over the knuckles frequently, and are therefore a little larger at the wrists than tormerly The double puff has been introduced in- stead of a single one, and is really a very pretty style if managed well. Checked ribbons are going to be fea- tures of this autumn’s millinery. If you want to show that you know what is what have a black hat with coques’ plumes and checked ribbon for your knock-about headwear during October and November. Lady Somerset, the English temper- ance reformer, is spending some time in the Catskill Mountains. She means to enter ber son, H. S. Somerset, this fall as a student at Harvard Uuiversity. If you have any old gloves with long wrists just think before pitching them into the waste basket, and cat off the tops and save them for fancy work. The kid can be easily cleaned and is capable of being made into a number of pretty articles. Several pieces of tan-colored kid stitched together along the edges will make a neat tobacco pouch. Run a drawing-string of gilt cord through the top, and paint or embroider an ini- tial or device on the side. You have no idea how pretty a thing it is when fin- ished. An opera glass bag is another thing which can be made from two square pieces of undressed kid. Select a heliotropa or lavender shade and paint pansies or violets thereon. The ribbon drawingstring shonld be the same color as the flowers. Kid covers for small books, kid hair-receivers and fan bags, kid pictures frames, card cases, pin trays and a host of other dainty articles can be made from the despised glove tops. This is surely the day of small things. Whosoever last spring had a tailor gown with long-skirted coat and re- vers turned back from a chemisette can bring herselt very economically up to date by lopping off the tails about a foot all around and replacing the chemisette by a vest of English cloth, black, pick- ed out with wee dots in scarlet, blue and white silk. Perhaps, too, the revers might be faced with black moire and the cloth sleeves replaced by larger ones still of the silk, for tails are shorter in proportion as sleeves grow steadily big- ger. Skirts aro changing ever so slight- ly. Only the conventional amount of crinoline will be used in them, which is to the knee, for tailors discovered that the all interlining of crindline was monstrously heavy. lost its stiffness af- ter a while and that in any event alla skirt needs to give it the proper flare is width distributed from the knee down. So the winter skirt is rather wider than ever before, it is lined, not made on a sham and bas on the inside edge one or two narrow flat plaits or erimpled ruftes. At the top it is finished by a binding in place of a waist band, over the outside of which is laid two or three close little folds of silk or satin, ending in one or two upstanding loops and ears or in a couple of small flut rosettes. Two demi season toilets, that bear a° French stamp, are quite simple. The gkirt of one has a novelty in the way of a slight slash at each side of the front, beginning in a point anil widening out a very little as it descends. It has also three rows of stiching at the bottom. Its material is a grayish fawn covert, with the slash showing dead white cloth be- tween.