Democratic watchman. (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1855-1940, September 07, 1894, Image 2
Demorraic Yanan, Bellefonte, Pa., Sept. 7, 1894, NOW AND THEN. Oh, now and then there comes a day When all our skies are bright, And all of life’s apoinsed way Is bathed in golden light; When roses hide no thorns beneath ; When love has no alloy; And zephyre full of perfame breathe From out the hills of joy. The present is a fleeting thing— The past will live for aye, And all its store of treasures bring Forever and a day, And softer shall the echoes esme From time's receeding shore; Each day will glean a pleasure from The days that are no more. Oh, memories of such, awake! And glad the weary now; A wreath of recollections make To crown the dreamer’s brow, Oh, silent voice and vanished hand,” Bring back the golden sheaves! The ripple of the waters and The laughter of the leaves. — Nixon Waterman in Chicage Journal. ——————————— MY SISTER'S SCHEME. We were very fond of Tom, and when he first bung out his sign, “Thomas Winchester, M. D.,”” we stood behind the shutters to see the commotion it must naturally cause. But people, as a geaeral thing, are very stupid ; they looked over and un- der and around it, as if it were not there at all. Aud not a person en- tered the poor boy’s office for a week. Then a girl with astye on her eye came—because Tom was young and handsome, I thought—but luck fol- lowed her, for others called immediate- ly afterward. But one day an elegant carriage was driven to the door, from which a young lady of striking appearance alighted, and I ran in great excite- ment to tell mother : “Tom has a patient now worth hav- ing,” I cried, “A lady in a splendid carriage. Perhaps she fell in love with him somewhere (I was only nine- teen). Think how romantic!” “Some stuck up thing, I suppose,” Olive said, with a contemptuous shrug of the shoulders. “Really I” I exclaimed. “You had betier not be so hasty in your judg- ments—certainly not until you know a little more than you do now.” Olive Sargent had been taken into the family when quite small, simply on account of her eyes, which indica- ted, mother thought, remarkable gen- ing. But the genius did not develop, for she was a perfect ignoramus, with nothing unusual about her excepting her brown eyes and her skill in using them. Miss Seymour proved a valuable pa- tient. She invited Tom to meet peo- ple of standing and influence, and his genial manners won him many desira- ble friends. A My sister Lucy and I made the most audacious plans, but we could not mention the young lady’s name before Olive without bringing a scowl to her brow, for the little sim- pleton had the presumption to be jeal- ous ; and about this time a very eligi ble young man commenced paying her warked attentions, but ehe treated him with all the airs and caprices of an in- experienced flirt. “You ought to be ashamed of such conduct,” I said to her one day. “Mr. Lamson is worthy of the moet superior woman and you might feel greatly flat- tered by his attentions. If you do not love him why do you encourage his visits 2’ “Do you want me to marry him?” she asked. “You certainly will not have many such chances,” Ireplied. “Does Tom want me to marry him ?” “Of course he does. He has a very bigh opinion of Mr. Lameon, and knows you could not make a better match—if you intend to marry at all.” “Then I shall accept him. I al- ways knew I should hate the man I married.” And she flounced out of the room scowling fearfully. “How queer she is,” Lucy said, “I never did like such odd girls in real life. They do well enough in stories.” “I shall be glad when she marries,” I rejoined. And soon afterward she announced her engagement to Mr. Lamson. “There is some one that cares for me, anyway,” she said. “Tell Tom I have accepted the man he is so crazy to have me marry.” I did not deliver the ungracious meseage, but when I told my brother of the engagement I saw him catch his breath, as if very much moved. “Little Olive engaged !" he said. never dreamed of such a thing.” “Little Olive is twenty years old,” I replied, “and I supposed you would be pleased. Mr. Lamson is such a fine young man.” “Oh, yes ; he is to be congratula- ted.” “She is the one to be congratula- ted,” I answered quickly. ‘Such a baby as she is, and——. Oh, Tom, she is too selfish.” “You are very hard, Lilian, where Olive is concerned. Remember that she has had nothing to try her. She may prove quite a heroine yet.” “But, my dear brother, just compare her with Miss Seymour.” “They are entirely different in their natures and dispositions,’ “T ghould think so.” “Then Mies Seymour is several years older, to begin with, and having been left an orphan at an early age, she had acquired a great deal of self-reliance and character.” “You like and admire her very much, Tom, do you not?” “Yes, Lillian. She has been the kindest of friends and I owe her more than I can possibly repay. She will be married soon 1 “What? I fairly gasped, all my beautiful air castles shattered in a mo- ment. “Is she engaged 7” “Certainly. But what is the matter, dear ? You Icok as it some one had struck you.” “ “Nothing —nothing,” I answered feebly as I turned to leave thie room, my heart sinking still lower when I heard him repeating to himself: “Lit- tle Olive engaged !” “I went as usual to my mother for consolation, and throwing myself up- on the floor beside her, I cried 1 “Qh, mother, mother, Tom ig not coing to be engaged to that lovely Miss Seymour after all. And worse still, I believe he is in love with Olive—of all persons in the world. Think of itt” “What do you mean, Lillian?” mother demaaded, with a look of un- qualified horror. “It is so, mother, I am sure.” “Well, if I had ever dreamed of such a denouement I never would have tak- en the child into my family. But what makes you think the boy is in love with her ?”’ “He just told me that Miss Seymour will soon be married to some one else. And he seemed so shocked and de- pressed because Olive is engaged to Mr. Lamson. I cannot be mistaken— and such a wife for Tom !” At that moment Olive entered the room looking gloomy and pouting. “My dear, mother asked, “when does your lover wish to be married ?” a good deal sooner than I do, he an- swered testily. “] do not believe in long engage: ments,” mother continued, ‘and I con- sider you a very fortunate girl to have won the love of a man like Mr. Lam- son. Still"”’— “Qh, if you are tired of me, of course’ “You ungrateful little thing I" I ex- claimed. “Hugh, Lillian!” my mother said reprovingly. “Olive, have I not treat- ed you kindly? Have I ever done anything to hurt your feelings or cause you unhappiness ?”’ “No, you and Tom have always been nice, but the girls do not like me one bit, I know. “We like you when you do not scowl in that dreadful manner and are not odd and queer”— “I canuot helpthe way I am made.” “But you were not made in that way. There is no need of your acting so strangely. However, if I have been unjust I am sorry.” And as my conscience had troubled me a little, I did severe penance and kissed her, but she looked more and more astonished than pleased. I was not at all surprised when a few days afterwards Lucy entered my room in great excitement ; but my fears were realized. “Ob, Lillian my sister cried, “Olive has taken laudanum, and’ — “Pghaw !"” I exclaimed. “You are not deluded by the little amateur Bern- hardt, I hope ?” “But she is on the bed unconscious.” “Juet call Tom, and then see how unconscious she is.” “Lillian, you are just as hard-heart- ed as you can be! She looks as white as the sheet she is lying on.” “Call Tom, and she will soon get her color.” She did as I told her, and we all went to her room together, Lucy and Tom very much agitated, but I myself feeling irritated and impatient. “Stop a moment!” I said, holding the others back. “I want to speak to ber first, Olive.” There was not the slightest move- ment to my call. Galatea was not more statue-like be- fore her awakenirg. Then Tom whispered in tremulous accents : “Olive, my little Olive!” It was the working of a miracle. At the first sound of his voice her eyes opened as if involuntarily and she rolled them upto him with the look of a seraph. “There!” I said to Lucy, and a more disgusted young woman was never seen. But Tom was not the first man duped by a pair of melting brown eyes and he succumbed helplessly. Kneeling by the gide of the bed he asked in a reproachful way : “Why did you.do this, my child, why did you do it?” “Because I do not want to marry Mr. Lamson,” she answered, pitifully. “You shall not marry him if you do not want to, my darling.” “But they said you wanted me to accept him.” “I want you to accept a man you do not care for! No, indeed, I love you to well for that.” “Do you love me, Tom, do you love me ?’ “Better than my life, little Olive.” “And I love you a thousand times better than any Mr. Lamson.” “My darling !"’ Tom cried; rapturous- ly, while I gnashed my teeth in impo- tent fury. I could not contain myselt, however, and approached the bed. “That is all very interesting,” T said but what do you suppose Mr. Lamson will think of it?” “Lillian,” Tom replied, with a de- termined look upon his face, “no man was fonder of a sister than I am, but I will not allow even you to interfere be- tween me and the woman I love.” For the first time in my life I was really angry with him, but I only an. swered by a look ; and if my eyes were not geraphic, they were quite as ex- pressive as Olive’s, Then I went to- | wards the door, but the dear fellow fol- lowed me, and throwing his arms around my waiet, he cried : “You are not avgry, you 7) I was melted in a moment. sister, are | poor boy ?” And trying herd to keep back the | tears, I left him with hie darling. | The next day that young lady had | the audacity to aek if I would see Mr. | Lamson, who had just called. “Oh, I exclaimed. you?" I never want to see the man again.” “Very well,” I said, I will see him ' but it is on his account, not yours.” And I descended to the parlor with my heart aching for the lover whose fondest hopes had been craelly blasted. I grew more agitated, and when I opened the parlor door my face must have betrayed me. Mr. Lamson extended his hand and asked quite eoolly : “Is Olive sick ?”’ “No,” I replied, “but I have an un- pleasant duty to fulfill. Oh, Mr. Lam- son, if my sympathy — “I think 1 understand,” he said, in a manner so utterly undisturbed that I looked at him in amazement. “You are surprised,” he continued, ‘but Olive has not behaved in a proper or womanly manner. I was greatly de- ceived. She has the eyes of an angel, but her caprices are anything but an- gelie. My patience was nearly ex hausted, especially asI think she pre- fers your brother to me. Indeed she almost said so. But I assure you that your sympathy is fully appreciated. Then he turned the subject, and we gpent a very pleasant evening. I had always liked Mr. Lamson. Olive was a good deal piqued when I assured her there was no danger of a broken heart in his cage. He continued to call as frequently as ever, seeming to appreciate my sym- pathy more and more, espec- ially when it changed into the tender- est love, And be soon convinced me that it was merely a passing fancy he had felt for Olive. There was a double wedding, and al- though several years have passed, Tom is as much in love with his wife as ev- er. He is successful and prosperous, en- joying his prosperity, yet when we speak of him to each other, we always say with a sigh : “Poor Tom !"’'— Chicago Press. The National Library. One of the grandest buildings in the national capital, after the capitol building itself, will be the national li- brary, now in process of completion, a little east of the capitol. There will be no building of a library character in the world to compare with it. And in time, with the natural and legiti- mate progress, there will be no collec- tion of books equaling that of the American national library. The last report of Librarian Spof- ford reveals the interesting fact that the congressional library, soon to be- come the national library, now num- bers 695,880 volumes and 223,000 pamphlets. Its collection as to Amer- ican history, whether as regards news: paper files, new books and old books devoted to the subject, and pamphlets has nothing in the world to compare with it in the practical uses of the li- brary, although in some of the foreign libraries there are probably a greater number of rare volumes, the acquisi- tion of two or three hundred years. The national library has grown from the Jefferson library of 7,000 vol- umes, purchased after the British burned the capitol and library in the last war with that uncivilized country. Not many other nations have a record of burning booke. In 1851 a disas- trous fire reduced the library from 55,000 volumes to 20,000. Aside from the small yearly appropriation and the copyright income, with the require- ment that a copy of every copyrighted book hall be depostied in the library, the only outside aid received in all these years fcr the vat'onal library has been the gift in 1882 of the 27,000 | books, together with as many pam- phlets, by Dr. Joseph M. Toner, of Washington. His collection was re- markably rich in matters relating to American history. When the national library takes pos- session of its new quarters, a couple of years hence, a million of volumes and pamphlets will require moving in- to its new and unsurpassed library building, on the other side of the ave- vue. This labor is to be performed by means of a temporary railroad in a tunnel to be constructed from the crypt of the capitol to the vaults of the new library. This will bea remarkable transfer of books, not approached since a brigade of the German army marched and counter-marched with the multitudinous volumes of the li brary of Berlin. Taken to the Poorhouse. Wealthy Children Have no Use for Their Aged Father. Paterson, N. Y.—William Crew, aged and infirm, went over the hill to the poorhouse last week to pass his de- clinirg years. His children are all well to-do, his daughters in comforta- ble circumstances, and Alfred Crew, a nephew, is in the gilk finishing busi- ness. He is said to bave an income of $500 a week. The old man was fonod wandering through the streets last night, and a friend gave him sufficient money to ee- cure a lodging place. For several days Crew had been walking about unable to find a place of shelter. As a last resort he applied to the poormaster for the privilege of becoming an inmate of the almshouee. Crew was the first person to engage in theegilk finishing business in this city and introduced into this country the methods now used in that line of business. He tavght the trade to his son, and brought his pephew, Alfred, to this country, putting them on the road to prosperity. The children de- fend their action by saying that the old “Oh, Tom,” I said—‘poor boy— ! man is too fond ot liquor, and they de- | cline to aid him any longer. Washington Widows. There is one widow to every sixteen | and a halt of the population of Wash- “You with to irgton, D.C. ; the whole number of get rid of a disagreeable duty, do widows, as appears by the recent cen- | sus report, is 15,000. The excessive “He'll tease me to marry him, and! proportion is accounted for by the fact that employment in many branches of the Government service has been found for the widows of soldiers. The Roof of the World. The triumph of Stanley in piercing to the heart of Darkest Africa has been almost equaled by the remarkable achievement of two Russian explorers, MM. Menkhoudjinoff and Oulanoff, who have justiarrived at Shanghai after a journey of two years and nine months through Thibet, in the course of which they penetrated to the capital Lassa and actually had an interview with the great Dalai Lama himself. The won- derfulness ot this feat can only be ap- preciated in the light of the knowledge that no European has ever before en- tered Lassa within the memory of the living world. Not since 1811 has even the slightest news of that mysterious city been brought to the ears of civili- zation, save in the single vague report of an anonymous Indian pundit. The few explorers who have dared the perils of the wild and snowy changes, the lofty plateaus, the robber Dokpas or dwellers in black tents, the Chinese guards and the Thibetan soldiery, have only succeeded in struggling through dreary miles of deserts and along mon- soon-swept marshes, and have return- ed with only half-glimpsed descriptions of the innumerable monasteries, the prayer mills or rattles and the buttered tea of this unique and most unknown country of the world. None have ever gazed upon the walls of the Lassa. This impregnably-barried Lassa is the dwelling-place of the Dalai Lama, the chief priest of Thibet and Mongo- lia. This religious pretender is wor- shiped as the earthly incarnation of Buddha. He issupposed never to die, but to appear immediately upon his apparent death in the body of an elect infant. Incense is burned to him be- fore a gigantic idol of the god ot Jamba, a monstrous image of clay and gilt with jeweled head, which sits enthrou- ed in the great white palace of the Po- tala, Lamaism is a hybrid Buddhism, just as Mobammedanism is a hybrid Christianity. The utter exclusion of all foreigners from this strange land has been and is undoubtedly due to the fear of the Thibetan hierarchy of priests that this absurd imposition of their red and yellow religion, which has completely enslaved the dirty, .ly- ing and ignorant Thibetans, might be epeedily overthrown by the Christian “devils ;” they are afraid the wealth of the monasteries would be revealed. At present the priests own Thibet as absolutely as though they held the fee simple to every foot of its ground. The Chinese Empire holds a nominal tem- poral sway, but dares not—if it would disturb the Dalai Lama and his army of prieats. The Peking Government hates Rus- sia 80 heartily that it has reinforced the Thibetan soldiers with Chinese guards in order to keep the Russians out. The famous Russian explorer, Colonel Prejevalsky, who has spent more years in Thibet than any other adventurous discoverer, has found him- self beset with difficulties and dangers at every hand. China would not al- low him even to descend the Hoang- Ho or the Yangtse-Kiang, Once hav- ing with his Cossacks safely traversed the heated, moistureless plains to a spot only 175 miles from Lassa, he was led by a false guide away from the city to the Blue River and lost forever his golden opportunity. After this close shave from Russia, China felt willing in 1886 to usher England into the Thibetan capital. She greatly prefer- red India to Russia as a tradesman. Letters to the Amban at Lassa were given to a British political and com- mercial expedition, but just as the elaborate caravan with costly gifts for the Dalai Lama was about to set out from Darjeeling, Lassa rose in an up- roar, the Thibetan soldiery siezed the British road and China was obliged to recall its pledge. Philadelphia takes just pride in the recent exploit of one of her sons, W. W. Rockhill, who crossed the changs of Thibet and surveyed a great unex- plored region. The Chinese pundit Nain Sing in the disguise of a Lama pilgrim caught a deep, also, of the marvelous lacustrine and river system of the queer dominicn. He visited the Bralimapootra River and revealed a new Southern Asia trade route. Cap- tain Gill, the Polish Count Szechenyi, and only lately Captain Hamilton Bow- er and Dr. Thorold, have lived for weeks on the 18,000 and 20,000 foot- high plateaus north of Lassa. But these two brave Russians are the first over to have gazed upon and entered that city hitherto as inaccesible as the North Pole itself. As Lama pilgrims they have knelt before the Dalai Lama himself. The world will breathlessly await the tales, strange as the marvels of Marco Polo, Sinbad and Gulliver, that they must have to tell of the shin- ing Potala, the Bridge of Tiles, Scor- pion Lake, the Starry Plains, and all the spectacles of this dark Kingdom, known as **The Roof of the World.” — Phila. Record. “It” Makes Fun. A game that is very absurd, but cre- ates fun is called “It,” and all must be in the secret but one, who leaves the room. Upon his return he questions each player to discover what has been ggreed upon for his mystification. He is told that it is a person, and many are the contradictions and great is his dilemma until he finds that “my right-hand neighbor” is the object se- lected. Each person questioned hav- ing a different “right-hand neighbor,” the confusion is very amusing to all but the bewildered questioner. Borax as a Washing Powder. In Belgium and Holland, where the washwomen are famous for the snowi- ness of their linen, borax is used a great deal. It is a natural salt, and is uot injurious to the most delicate fab- ric. It should be uses .a the propor tion of a handful to ten gallons of water. —— Representative W. L. Wilson is in Washington making arrangements for his trip abroad. His present inten- ticn is to sail on Wednesday. The Post-Office at Sea. The system of railway post office has been found so successful, and a means of saving so much valuable time, that it has been extended to the transatlan- tic steamships. This was begun under Mr. Wanamaker’s administration as Post-master-General, but so far mail clerks have only been placed on the American ships running to Southamp- ton and on the German ships that go to Bremen and Hamburg. On each of the vessels of the lines mentioned large staterooms have been set aside and fitted out for the use of the postal clerks. Big racks of pigeon- holes stand up against the walls, and the mail-pouches hang trom stands in the centre of the room. In these post- offices the clerks work from eight to ten hours a day during the entire voyage, distributing the mails by cities and States, when coming this way, and by railroad lines when going to Germany. On each ship there is one American clerk, one German clerk, and a German assistant. The American isin charge going eastward, and the German has charge of things coming this way. These clerks, of course, are men of energy and intelligence. They are the best material taken from the postal services of both countries. The Ger- mans wear gaudy uniforms with mili- tary caps and swords, and are called by the high-sounding name of “Reichs Post Secretaer.”” I'he American calls himself a “sea post clerk.” In spite of the lack of gold braid and side-arms, however, the Americans are the most reliable men. It is'said that when the Eider went on the rocks on the coast of Ireland last year the *‘Reichs Post Secretaer’” grabbed his sword and made for the life-boats. The American stood to bis business. and did not leave his post until he had overseen the transfer of the mails from the leaking ship to a tug. These post clerks handle about 140,000 letters and 60 sacks of papers each trip ; but in De- cember and January their work is al- most doubled.— Harper's Young Peo- ple. Schriver's Great Catch. Holds a Ball Dropped 500 Feet from the Wask- ington Monument. William Schriver, one of the catchers of the Chicago base ball club, has smashed to smithereens a tradition of long standing, that no base ballist could ever catch a regulation ball tossed to him from one of the windows in the top of the Washington monument. It is 500 feet from the base of the monument where visitors enter to the landing where the elevator stops, and it was from this level that Schriver accom- plished the feat which has hitherto caused so much speculation. As regu- larly as the ball teams visited Washing- ton there would be a controversy that no base ball player could catch a ball thrown from this height to the ground beneath and attention has been called to the attempt of the great fielder Paul Hines to catch a regulation ball at this spot. It has been held that no man could hold fast toa ball dropped 500 feet in sheer space. First, because the heigh was too great for a man to see the bail, and secondly, because the impetus it would receive would break every fin- ger in the outstretched hand of the mor- tal who thus tempted fate. Schriver was consulted on the subject and expressed his willingness to under- take the task. To say that he was pro- foundly impressed with the difficult and perhaps dangerous nature of the exploit he had undertaken was putting it mild. The weight of opinion was against his ability to succeed. After Griffith and Hutchinson had got to the - top, and the former had tossed the ball from a north window, Schriver's nerve forsook him and he made no effort to catch it, but, instead of boring a hole 10 feet deep in mother earth, as some said it would do the leather globe bounded up about as high as it would from an average hard hit. This encouraged Schriver wonder- fully, and he resolved that the catch was no great shakes after all. The signal was given from above, and again the ball was pitched forth, Schriver catching it fair and square amid the ap- plause of the spectators. The Sun's Heat. When the Orb of Day Is Hottest and the Rea. sons Therefor. The fact has long been recognized that the sun is a variable star. Ot course, its variations are slight, else they would have a disastrous effect upon the earth. The regularity with which sun spots gradually increase, and then decrease in number and size, is however, a suf- ficient indication that, as viewed from a great distance in space, and with suf- ficiently delicate means of observation, the sun would run through a cycle of variations in brightness ouce in everv 11 years. It might well be supposed that, if such changes take place th ey would be more easily perceived from the earth than from a greater distance. As a matter of fact, however, there are prac- tical difficulties which render it almost impossible to get an accurate measure of the variation from year to year in the amount of the sun’s radiation that falls upon the earth. It has even been undecided whether the sun is hotter or colder when it is most spotted. Some observations have indicated that the sun is hotter when the disturbances that create sun-spots are most active, while other observa- tions have, at the same time, tended to show that less heat is then received on the tace of the earth than is received when there are practically nosun-spots. Recently, however, Mr. Savelief has reported to the Academy of Science in Paris the result of experiments and calculations made by him since 1890, which strongly go to show that not only is the sun hotter when it is most spotted, but that it is precisely at such times that the surface ot the earth feels the greatest intensity of solar radiation. Went Back on Him. «J knew Sassafras was a mean man. but I never thought he’d go back on his wife's father.” “Did he do that?” “Yes ; you see he had no other place to go.” For and About Women. The truly aesthetic woman will wel- come the sashes which have appeared once more. They are worn in the back tied in front or on the side, as they are most becoming, and are made of soft silk, satin or moire, with long ends fall- ng almost to the bottom of the gown. A noticeable thing at the resort this season has been the few jewels worn by ladies of wealth and distinction. To bave the fingers loaded with rings, es- pecially diamonds, is considered very bad taste it has become so common. The few jewels worn are mostly in the form of pins. The pretty ribbon “harness” in vogue many years ago, is the latest novelty on youthful gowns. Tt consists of bretelles or braces starting from the belt in front under a horizontal bow and passing ov- er the shoulders, where they are tied in fanciful knots, then down the back to meet two rosettes at the belt. The nov- elty, however, is in the continuation of the ribbons, two behind and two before, at the foot of the skirt, each end being tied in a snuart square bow, the long ends flying out with every motion. Miss Millicent Fawcett, the brilliant senior wrangler of 1890, is about to be- gin a business career asa civil engineer. Chicago has her counterpart in Miss Anise De Barr, who isa duly accredited and practicing engineer. : Mrs. Bayard, wife off our Ambass- ador to England, is greatly envied be- cause she has been more than once in- vited by the Queen to remain over night at Windsor Castle. The new walking skirts just clear the ground and their length is regulated very precisely. Of two which were shown recently one was of black and white check woolen goods trimmed with black watered silk and narrow jet pas- sementerie. Its gored skirt was lined with black alpaca, and was trimmed around the hem with a puff of the black silk finished with jet top and bottom. The bodice had a plain vest of watered silk which laps over and was finished with plain bretelles edged with jet. Standing collar and belt were made of watered silk and the full gigot sleeves have gauntlet cuffs of the same garnish- ed with the jet passemienterie. Tobac- co-brown crepon and trimmed with reed-green satin liberty and wide bands of open-work jet galoon was the other costume. The underskirt was covered with a wide puff of the green satin about half way up,which was trimmed near the bottom with a band of the galoon. The overskirt was slightly draped in front and back. The bodice bas a draped vest of green satin finished by lace bretelles,and the belt consisted of the lace galoon with jet pendants of difierent lengths in front and two long black satin ends with small loops in back. The sleeves have bell cuffs faced with satin. Butter lace keeps its place and ap- pears on many wool gowns now being on the market. A new notion is the heading of great frills with lace. This allows one to put all the more material into the frill, for, of course the lace would gather more closely than would the heavy wool stuff. Itis imperative that the edge of the material on to which lace is fastened should be cut to meet the various points of the edge of the lace, and that the attaching be done with buttonhole stitch in butter silk. All this, it need hardly be said, will add to the dresswaaker’s bill, but the wo- man with more tire and taste than money can do it herself, and it will be just as satisfactory. The majority of manicure operators are hand mutilators. Those well-mean- ing young women do too much scissor work. If they understood their busi- ness they would let the cuticle alone, as it is & finished edge for the nail—a sort of pearl white selvedge. Cutting, clip- ping or tearing makes 1t ragged. Never cut or-allow any one to cut thisrim that frames the finger nail. Polishing the nails destroys their natural beauty. One treatment will make them brittle and exhaust the insensible oil ; it will take several months for Nature to renew her handiwork. Once the nails are polished and tinted the artifice will have to be continued. It is like polishing new shoes—alter the first application the leather will require blacking or brown- ing for every toilet. The belt pin and the buckle fad will probably keep the round waist in favor for some time to come. The belt pins vary in size, from small, plain silver af- fairs (which can be bought for 75 cents) up tothe diamond set ornaments in prices which vary with the number and quality of stones. The fregulation belt is made of heavy black or white Ottoman ribbon and fastens in front with a large silver belt and in the back with a small silver clasp pin, such as I have been describing. This is va- ried in many ways, and in adress which is trimmed the belt is usually made of the same material as the trimming. Velvet is being made up as a trim- ming in such quantities as to warrant the belief that it is an advanced fall style. And there is nothing prettier or more becoming in the whole category of trimmings. The new tones in brown for autumn and early winter wear show decided tendency toward red reflections. Burnt flour, auburn mahogany, rust color and autumn leaf are the names by which some of them are known ; autumn leaf being hardly more than a dull red with bronze shadows which show only in folds. These shades are all more effective if made up in plain wools touched somewhere with velvet in deep- er tone ; but some of the latest mater- ials in them show checks, plaids and even stripes accented with a thread of definite red and gold. Along with the red browns are seen the familiar dull leaf shades deepened and meeting in- to indistinct greens. The old-fashion- ed snuff brown sv becoming to fair, high colored complexions will also be much worn. To wash one’s hair isa matter re- quiring time, or, at any rate, the drying of it requires time.