Demorraic Yanan,
Bellefonte, Pa., Sept. 7, 1894,
NOW AND THEN.
Oh, now and then there comes a day
When all our skies are bright,
And all of life’s apoinsed way
Is bathed in golden light;
When roses hide no thorns beneath ;
When love has no alloy;
And zephyre full of perfame breathe
From out the hills of joy.
The present is a fleeting thing—
The past will live for aye,
And all its store of treasures bring
Forever and a day,
And softer shall the echoes esme
From time's receeding shore;
Each day will glean a pleasure from
The days that are no more.
Oh, memories of such, awake!
And glad the weary now;
A wreath of recollections make
To crown the dreamer’s brow,
Oh, silent voice and vanished hand,”
Bring back the golden sheaves!
The ripple of the waters and
The laughter of the leaves.
— Nixon Waterman in Chicage Journal.
———————————
MY SISTER'S SCHEME.
We were very fond of Tom, and
when he first bung out his sign,
“Thomas Winchester, M. D.,”” we
stood behind the shutters to see the
commotion it must naturally cause.
But people, as a geaeral thing, are
very stupid ; they looked over and un-
der and around it, as if it were not
there at all. Aud not a person en-
tered the poor boy’s office for a week.
Then a girl with astye on her eye
came—because Tom was young and
handsome, I thought—but luck fol-
lowed her, for others called immediate-
ly afterward.
But one day an elegant carriage was
driven to the door, from which a
young lady of striking appearance
alighted, and I ran in great excite-
ment to tell mother :
“Tom has a patient now worth hav-
ing,” I cried, “A lady in a splendid
carriage. Perhaps she fell in love
with him somewhere (I was only nine-
teen). Think how romantic!”
“Some stuck up thing, I suppose,”
Olive said, with a contemptuous shrug
of the shoulders.
“Really I” I exclaimed. “You had
betier not be so hasty in your judg-
ments—certainly not until you know a
little more than you do now.”
Olive Sargent had been taken into
the family when quite small, simply
on account of her eyes, which indica-
ted, mother thought, remarkable gen-
ing. But the genius did not develop,
for she was a perfect ignoramus, with
nothing unusual about her excepting
her brown eyes and her skill in using
them.
Miss Seymour proved a valuable pa-
tient. She invited Tom to meet peo-
ple of standing and influence, and his
genial manners won him many desira-
ble friends. A My sister Lucy and I
made the most audacious plans, but
we could not mention the young lady’s
name before Olive without bringing
a scowl to her brow, for the little sim-
pleton had the presumption to be jeal-
ous ; and about this time a very eligi
ble young man commenced paying her
warked attentions, but ehe treated him
with all the airs and caprices of an in-
experienced flirt.
“You ought to be ashamed of such
conduct,” I said to her one day. “Mr.
Lamson is worthy of the moet superior
woman and you might feel greatly flat-
tered by his attentions. If you do not
love him why do you encourage his
visits 2’
“Do you want me to marry him?”
she asked.
“You certainly will not have many
such chances,” Ireplied.
“Does Tom want me to marry
him ?”
“Of course he does. He has a very
bigh opinion of Mr. Lameon, and
knows you could not make a better
match—if you intend to marry at all.”
“Then I shall accept him. I al-
ways knew I should hate the man I
married.”
And she flounced out of the room
scowling fearfully.
“How queer she is,” Lucy said, “I
never did like such odd girls in real
life. They do well enough in stories.”
“I shall be glad when she marries,”
I rejoined.
And soon afterward she announced
her engagement to Mr. Lamson.
“There is some one that cares for
me, anyway,” she said. “Tell Tom
I have accepted the man he is so crazy
to have me marry.”
I did not deliver the ungracious
meseage, but when I told my brother
of the engagement I saw him catch his
breath, as if very much moved.
“Little Olive engaged !" he said.
never dreamed of such a thing.”
“Little Olive is twenty years old,” I
replied, “and I supposed you would be
pleased. Mr. Lamson is such a fine
young man.”
“Oh, yes ; he is to be congratula-
ted.”
“She is the one to be congratula-
ted,” I answered quickly. ‘Such a
baby as she is, and——. Oh, Tom,
she is too selfish.”
“You are very hard, Lilian, where
Olive is concerned. Remember that
she has had nothing to try her. She
may prove quite a heroine yet.”
“But, my dear brother, just compare
her with Miss Seymour.”
“They are entirely different in their
natures and dispositions,’
“T ghould think so.”
“Then Mies Seymour is several years
older, to begin with, and having been
left an orphan at an early age, she had
acquired a great deal of self-reliance
and character.”
“You like and admire her very
much, Tom, do you not?”
“Yes, Lillian. She has been the
kindest of friends and I owe her more
than I can possibly repay. She will
be married soon 1
“What? I fairly gasped, all my
beautiful air castles shattered in a mo-
ment. “Is she engaged 7”
“Certainly. But what is the matter,
dear ? You Icok as it some one had
struck you.”
“
“Nothing —nothing,” I answered
feebly as I turned to leave thie room,
my heart sinking still lower when I
heard him repeating to himself: “Lit-
tle Olive engaged !”
“I went as usual to my mother for
consolation, and throwing myself up-
on the floor beside her, I cried 1
“Qh, mother, mother, Tom ig not
coing to be engaged to that lovely Miss
Seymour after all. And worse still, I
believe he is in love with Olive—of all
persons in the world. Think of itt”
“What do you mean, Lillian?”
mother demaaded, with a look of un-
qualified horror.
“It is so, mother, I am sure.”
“Well, if I had ever dreamed of such
a denouement I never would have tak-
en the child into my family. But
what makes you think the boy is in
love with her ?”’
“He just told me that Miss Seymour
will soon be married to some one else.
And he seemed so shocked and de-
pressed because Olive is engaged to
Mr. Lamson. I cannot be mistaken—
and such a wife for Tom !”
At that moment Olive entered the
room looking gloomy and pouting.
“My dear, mother asked, “when
does your lover wish to be married ?”
a good deal sooner than I do, he an-
swered testily.
“] do not believe in long engage:
ments,” mother continued, ‘and I con-
sider you a very fortunate girl to have
won the love of a man like Mr. Lam-
son. Still"”’—
“Qh, if you are tired of me, of
course’
“You ungrateful little thing I" I ex-
claimed.
“Hugh, Lillian!” my mother said
reprovingly. “Olive, have I not treat-
ed you kindly? Have I ever done
anything to hurt your feelings or cause
you unhappiness ?”’
“No, you and Tom have always
been nice, but the girls do not like me
one bit, I know.
“We like you when you do not scowl
in that dreadful manner and are
not odd and queer”—
“I canuot helpthe way I am made.”
“But you were not made in that way.
There is no need of your acting so
strangely. However, if I have been
unjust I am sorry.”
And as my conscience had troubled
me a little, I did severe penance and
kissed her, but she looked more and
more astonished than pleased.
I was not at all surprised when a few
days afterwards Lucy entered my room
in great excitement ; but my fears were
realized.
“Ob, Lillian my sister cried, “Olive
has taken laudanum, and’ —
“Pghaw !"” I exclaimed. “You are
not deluded by the little amateur Bern-
hardt, I hope ?”
“But she is on the bed unconscious.”
“Juet call Tom, and then see how
unconscious she is.”
“Lillian, you are just as hard-heart-
ed as you can be! She looks as white
as the sheet she is lying on.”
“Call Tom, and she will soon get
her color.”
She did as I told her, and we all
went to her room together, Lucy and
Tom very much agitated, but I myself
feeling irritated and impatient.
“Stop a moment!” I said, holding
the others back. “I want to speak to
ber first, Olive.”
There was not the slightest move-
ment to my call.
Galatea was not more statue-like be-
fore her awakenirg.
Then Tom whispered in tremulous
accents :
“Olive, my little Olive!”
It was the working of a miracle.
At the first sound of his voice her
eyes opened as if involuntarily and
she rolled them upto him with the
look of a seraph.
“There!” I said to Lucy, and a
more disgusted young woman was
never seen.
But Tom was not the first man
duped by a pair of melting brown eyes
and he succumbed helplessly.
Kneeling by the gide of the bed he
asked in a reproachful way :
“Why did you.do this, my child,
why did you do it?”
“Because I do not want to marry
Mr. Lamson,” she answered, pitifully.
“You shall not marry him if you do
not want to, my darling.”
“But they said you wanted me to
accept him.”
“I want you to accept a man you do
not care for! No, indeed, I love
you to well for that.”
“Do you love me, Tom, do you love
me ?’
“Better than my life, little Olive.”
“And I love you a thousand times
better than any Mr. Lamson.”
“My darling !"’ Tom cried; rapturous-
ly, while I gnashed my teeth in impo-
tent fury.
I could not contain myselt, however,
and approached the bed.
“That is all very interesting,” T said
but what do you suppose Mr. Lamson
will think of it?”
“Lillian,” Tom replied, with a de-
termined look upon his face, “no man
was fonder of a sister than I am, but I
will not allow even you to interfere be-
tween me and the woman I love.”
For the first time in my life I was
really angry with him, but I only an.
swered by a look ; and if my eyes were
not geraphic, they were quite as ex-
pressive as Olive’s, Then I went to- |
wards the door, but the dear fellow fol-
lowed me, and throwing his arms
around my waiet, he cried :
“You are not avgry,
you 7)
I was melted in a moment.
sister, are |
poor boy ?”
And trying herd to keep back the |
tears, I left him with hie darling. |
The next day that young lady had |
the audacity to aek if I would see Mr. |
Lamson, who had just called.
“Oh, I exclaimed.
you?"
I never want to see the man again.”
“Very well,” I said, I will see him
' but it is on his account, not yours.”
And I descended to the parlor with
my heart aching for the lover whose
fondest hopes had been craelly blasted.
I grew more agitated, and when I
opened the parlor door my face must
have betrayed me.
Mr. Lamson extended his hand and
asked quite eoolly :
“Is Olive sick ?”’
“No,” I replied, “but I have an un-
pleasant duty to fulfill. Oh, Mr. Lam-
son, if my sympathy —
“I think 1 understand,” he said, in
a manner so utterly undisturbed that
I looked at him in amazement. “You
are surprised,” he continued, ‘but
Olive has not behaved in a proper or
womanly manner. I was greatly de-
ceived. She has the eyes of an angel,
but her caprices are anything but an-
gelie. My patience was nearly ex
hausted, especially asI think she pre-
fers your brother to me. Indeed she
almost said so. But I assure you that
your sympathy is fully appreciated.
Then he turned the subject, and we
gpent a very pleasant evening. I had
always liked Mr. Lamson.
Olive was a good deal piqued when
I assured her there was no danger of a
broken heart in his cage.
He continued to call as frequently
as ever, seeming to appreciate my sym-
pathy more and more, espec-
ially when it changed into the tender-
est love,
And be soon convinced me that it
was merely a passing fancy he had felt
for Olive.
There was a double wedding, and al-
though several years have passed, Tom
is as much in love with his wife as ev-
er.
He is successful and prosperous, en-
joying his prosperity, yet when we
speak of him to each other, we always
say with a sigh :
“Poor Tom !"’'— Chicago Press.
The National Library.
One of the grandest buildings in the
national capital, after the capitol
building itself, will be the national li-
brary, now in process of completion, a
little east of the capitol. There will
be no building of a library character
in the world to compare with it. And
in time, with the natural and legiti-
mate progress, there will be no collec-
tion of books equaling that of the
American national library.
The last report of Librarian Spof-
ford reveals the interesting fact that
the congressional library, soon to be-
come the national library, now num-
bers 695,880 volumes and 223,000
pamphlets. Its collection as to Amer-
ican history, whether as regards news:
paper files, new books and old books
devoted to the subject, and pamphlets
has nothing in the world to compare
with it in the practical uses of the li-
brary, although in some of the foreign
libraries there are probably a greater
number of rare volumes, the acquisi-
tion of two or three hundred years.
The national library has grown
from the Jefferson library of 7,000 vol-
umes, purchased after the British
burned the capitol and library in the
last war with that uncivilized country.
Not many other nations have a record
of burning booke. In 1851 a disas-
trous fire reduced the library from
55,000 volumes to 20,000. Aside from
the small yearly appropriation and the
copyright income, with the require-
ment that a copy of every copyrighted
book hall be depostied in the library,
the only outside aid received in all
these years fcr the vat'onal library
has been the gift in 1882 of the 27,000 |
books, together with as many pam-
phlets, by Dr. Joseph M. Toner, of
Washington. His collection was re-
markably rich in matters relating to
American history.
When the national library takes pos-
session of its new quarters, a couple
of years hence, a million of volumes
and pamphlets will require moving in-
to its new and unsurpassed library
building, on the other side of the ave-
vue. This labor is to be performed by
means of a temporary railroad in a
tunnel to be constructed from the crypt
of the capitol to the vaults of the new
library. This will bea remarkable
transfer of books, not approached since
a brigade of the German army
marched and counter-marched with
the multitudinous volumes of the li
brary of Berlin.
Taken to the Poorhouse.
Wealthy Children Have no Use for Their Aged
Father.
Paterson, N. Y.—William Crew,
aged and infirm, went over the hill to
the poorhouse last week to pass his de-
clinirg years. His children are all
well to-do, his daughters in comforta-
ble circumstances, and Alfred Crew, a
nephew, is in the gilk finishing busi-
ness. He is said to bave an income of
$500 a week.
The old man was fonod wandering
through the streets last night, and a
friend gave him sufficient money to ee-
cure a lodging place. For several days
Crew had been walking about unable
to find a place of shelter. As a last
resort he applied to the poormaster for
the privilege of becoming an inmate of
the almshouee.
Crew was the first person to engage
in theegilk finishing business in this
city and introduced into this country
the methods now used in that line of
business. He tavght the trade to his
son, and brought his pephew, Alfred,
to this country, putting them on the
road to prosperity. The children de-
fend their action by saying that the old
“Oh, Tom,” I said—‘poor boy— ! man is too fond ot liquor, and they de-
| cline to aid him any longer.
Washington Widows.
There is one widow to every sixteen
| and a halt of the population of Wash-
“You with to irgton, D.C. ; the whole number of
get rid of a disagreeable duty, do widows, as appears by the recent cen-
| sus report, is 15,000. The excessive
“He'll tease me to marry him, and! proportion is accounted for by the fact
that employment in many branches of
the Government service has been
found for the widows of soldiers.
The Roof of the World.
The triumph of Stanley in piercing
to the heart of Darkest Africa has been
almost equaled by the remarkable
achievement of two Russian explorers,
MM. Menkhoudjinoff and Oulanoff,
who have justiarrived at Shanghai after
a journey of two years and nine months
through Thibet, in the course of which
they penetrated to the capital Lassa
and actually had an interview with the
great Dalai Lama himself. The won-
derfulness ot this feat can only be ap-
preciated in the light of the knowledge
that no European has ever before en-
tered Lassa within the memory of the
living world. Not since 1811 has even
the slightest news of that mysterious
city been brought to the ears of civili-
zation, save in the single vague report
of an anonymous Indian pundit. The
few explorers who have dared the perils
of the wild and snowy changes, the
lofty plateaus, the robber Dokpas or
dwellers in black tents, the Chinese
guards and the Thibetan soldiery, have
only succeeded in struggling through
dreary miles of deserts and along mon-
soon-swept marshes, and have return-
ed with only half-glimpsed descriptions
of the innumerable monasteries, the
prayer mills or rattles and the buttered
tea of this unique and most unknown
country of the world. None have ever
gazed upon the walls of the Lassa.
This impregnably-barried Lassa is
the dwelling-place of the Dalai Lama,
the chief priest of Thibet and Mongo-
lia. This religious pretender is wor-
shiped as the earthly incarnation of
Buddha. He issupposed never to die,
but to appear immediately upon his
apparent death in the body of an elect
infant. Incense is burned to him be-
fore a gigantic idol of the god ot Jamba,
a monstrous image of clay and gilt
with jeweled head, which sits enthrou-
ed in the great white palace of the Po-
tala, Lamaism is a hybrid Buddhism,
just as Mobammedanism is a hybrid
Christianity. The utter exclusion of
all foreigners from this strange land
has been and is undoubtedly due to the
fear of the Thibetan hierarchy of
priests that this absurd imposition of
their red and yellow religion, which
has completely enslaved the dirty, .ly-
ing and ignorant Thibetans, might be
epeedily overthrown by the Christian
“devils ;” they are afraid the wealth of
the monasteries would be revealed.
At present the priests own Thibet as
absolutely as though they held the fee
simple to every foot of its ground. The
Chinese Empire holds a nominal tem-
poral sway, but dares not—if it would
disturb the Dalai Lama and his army
of prieats.
The Peking Government hates Rus-
sia 80 heartily that it has reinforced
the Thibetan soldiers with Chinese
guards in order to keep the Russians
out. The famous Russian explorer,
Colonel Prejevalsky, who has spent
more years in Thibet than any other
adventurous discoverer, has found him-
self beset with difficulties and dangers
at every hand. China would not al-
low him even to descend the Hoang-
Ho or the Yangtse-Kiang, Once hav-
ing with his Cossacks safely traversed
the heated, moistureless plains to a
spot only 175 miles from Lassa, he was
led by a false guide away from the city
to the Blue River and lost forever his
golden opportunity. After this close
shave from Russia, China felt willing
in 1886 to usher England into the
Thibetan capital. She greatly prefer-
red India to Russia as a tradesman.
Letters to the Amban at Lassa were
given to a British political and com-
mercial expedition, but just as the
elaborate caravan with costly gifts for
the Dalai Lama was about to set out
from Darjeeling, Lassa rose in an up-
roar, the Thibetan soldiery siezed the
British road and China was obliged to
recall its pledge.
Philadelphia takes just pride in the
recent exploit of one of her sons, W.
W. Rockhill, who crossed the changs
of Thibet and surveyed a great unex-
plored region. The Chinese pundit
Nain Sing in the disguise of a Lama
pilgrim caught a deep, also, of the
marvelous lacustrine and river system
of the queer dominicn. He visited the
Bralimapootra River and revealed a
new Southern Asia trade route. Cap-
tain Gill, the Polish Count Szechenyi,
and only lately Captain Hamilton Bow-
er and Dr. Thorold, have lived for
weeks on the 18,000 and 20,000 foot-
high plateaus north of Lassa. But
these two brave Russians are the first
over to have gazed upon and entered
that city hitherto as inaccesible as the
North Pole itself. As Lama pilgrims
they have knelt before the Dalai Lama
himself. The world will breathlessly
await the tales, strange as the marvels
of Marco Polo, Sinbad and Gulliver,
that they must have to tell of the shin-
ing Potala, the Bridge of Tiles, Scor-
pion Lake, the Starry Plains, and all
the spectacles of this dark Kingdom,
known as **The Roof of the World.” —
Phila. Record.
“It” Makes Fun.
A game that is very absurd, but cre-
ates fun is called “It,” and all must be
in the secret but one, who leaves the
room. Upon his return he questions
each player to discover what has
been ggreed upon for his mystification.
He is told that it is a person, and
many are the contradictions and great
is his dilemma until he finds that “my
right-hand neighbor” is the object se-
lected. Each person questioned hav-
ing a different “right-hand neighbor,”
the confusion is very amusing to all
but the bewildered questioner.
Borax as a Washing Powder.
In Belgium and Holland, where the
washwomen are famous for the snowi-
ness of their linen, borax is used a
great deal. It is a natural salt, and is
uot injurious to the most delicate fab-
ric. It should be uses .a the propor
tion of a handful to ten gallons of
water.
—— Representative W. L. Wilson is
in Washington making arrangements
for his trip abroad. His present inten-
ticn is to sail on Wednesday.
The Post-Office at Sea.
The system of railway post office has
been found so successful, and a means
of saving so much valuable time, that
it has been extended to the transatlan-
tic steamships. This was begun under
Mr. Wanamaker’s administration as
Post-master-General, but so far mail
clerks have only been placed on the
American ships running to Southamp-
ton and on the German ships that go to
Bremen and Hamburg.
On each of the vessels of the lines
mentioned large staterooms have been
set aside and fitted out for the use of
the postal clerks. Big racks of pigeon-
holes stand up against the walls, and
the mail-pouches hang trom stands in
the centre of the room. In these post-
offices the clerks work from eight to ten
hours a day during the entire voyage,
distributing the mails by cities and
States, when coming this way, and by
railroad lines when going to Germany.
On each ship there is one American
clerk, one German clerk, and a German
assistant. The American isin charge
going eastward, and the German has
charge of things coming this way.
These clerks, of course, are men of
energy and intelligence. They are the
best material taken from the postal
services of both countries. The Ger-
mans wear gaudy uniforms with mili-
tary caps and swords, and are called
by the high-sounding name of “Reichs
Post Secretaer.”” I'he American calls
himself a “sea post clerk.” In spite
of the lack of gold braid and side-arms,
however, the Americans are the most
reliable men. It is'said that when the
Eider went on the rocks on the coast
of Ireland last year the *‘Reichs Post
Secretaer’” grabbed his sword and made
for the life-boats. The American
stood to bis business. and did not leave
his post until he had overseen the
transfer of the mails from the leaking
ship to a tug. These post clerks
handle about 140,000 letters and 60
sacks of papers each trip ; but in De-
cember and January their work is al-
most doubled.— Harper's Young Peo-
ple.
Schriver's Great Catch.
Holds a Ball Dropped 500 Feet from the Wask-
ington Monument.
William Schriver, one of the catchers
of the Chicago base ball club, has
smashed to smithereens a tradition of
long standing, that no base ballist could
ever catch a regulation ball tossed to
him from one of the windows in the top
of the Washington monument. It is
500 feet from the base of the monument
where visitors enter to the landing
where the elevator stops, and it was
from this level that Schriver accom-
plished the feat which has hitherto
caused so much speculation. As regu-
larly as the ball teams visited Washing-
ton there would be a controversy that
no base ball player could catch a ball
thrown from this height to the ground
beneath and attention has been called to
the attempt of the great fielder Paul
Hines to catch a regulation ball at this
spot. It has been held that no man
could hold fast toa ball dropped 500
feet in sheer space. First, because the
heigh was too great for a man to see the
bail, and secondly, because the impetus
it would receive would break every fin-
ger in the outstretched hand of the mor-
tal who thus tempted fate.
Schriver was consulted on the subject
and expressed his willingness to under-
take the task. To say that he was pro-
foundly impressed with the difficult and
perhaps dangerous nature of the exploit
he had undertaken was putting it mild.
The weight of opinion was against his
ability to succeed. After Griffith and
Hutchinson had got to the - top, and the
former had tossed the ball from a north
window, Schriver's nerve forsook him
and he made no effort to catch it, but,
instead of boring a hole 10 feet deep in
mother earth, as some said it would do
the leather globe bounded up about as
high as it would from an average hard
hit. This encouraged Schriver wonder-
fully, and he resolved that the catch
was no great shakes after all. The
signal was given from above, and again
the ball was pitched forth, Schriver
catching it fair and square amid the ap-
plause of the spectators.
The Sun's Heat.
When the Orb of Day Is Hottest and the Rea.
sons Therefor.
The fact has long been recognized that
the sun is a variable star. Ot course,
its variations are slight, else they would
have a disastrous effect upon the earth.
The regularity with which sun spots
gradually increase, and then decrease
in number and size, is however, a suf-
ficient indication that, as viewed from
a great distance in space, and with suf-
ficiently delicate means of observation,
the sun would run through a cycle of
variations in brightness ouce in everv
11 years.
It might well be supposed that, if
such changes take place th ey would be
more easily perceived from the earth
than from a greater distance. As a
matter of fact, however, there are prac-
tical difficulties which render it almost
impossible to get an accurate measure
of the variation from year to year in
the amount of the sun’s radiation that
falls upon the earth.
It has even been undecided whether
the sun is hotter or colder when it is
most spotted. Some observations have
indicated that the sun is hotter when
the disturbances that create sun-spots
are most active, while other observa-
tions have, at the same time, tended to
show that less heat is then received on
the tace of the earth than is received
when there are practically nosun-spots.
Recently, however, Mr. Savelief has
reported to the Academy of Science in
Paris the result of experiments and
calculations made by him since 1890,
which strongly go to show that not
only is the sun hotter when it is most
spotted, but that it is precisely at such
times that the surface ot the earth feels
the greatest intensity of solar radiation.
Went Back on Him.
«J knew Sassafras was a mean man.
but I never thought he’d go back on his
wife's father.”
“Did he do that?”
“Yes ; you see he had no other place
to go.”
For and About Women.
The truly aesthetic woman will wel-
come the sashes which have appeared
once more. They are worn in the back
tied in front or on the side, as they are
most becoming, and are made of soft
silk, satin or moire, with long ends fall-
ng almost to the bottom of the gown.
A noticeable thing at the resort this
season has been the few jewels worn by
ladies of wealth and distinction. To
bave the fingers loaded with rings, es-
pecially diamonds, is considered very
bad taste it has become so common.
The few jewels worn are mostly in the
form of pins.
The pretty ribbon “harness” in vogue
many years ago, is the latest novelty on
youthful gowns. Tt consists of bretelles
or braces starting from the belt in front
under a horizontal bow and passing ov-
er the shoulders, where they are tied in
fanciful knots, then down the back to
meet two rosettes at the belt. The nov-
elty, however, is in the continuation of
the ribbons, two behind and two before,
at the foot of the skirt, each end being
tied in a snuart square bow, the long
ends flying out with every motion.
Miss Millicent Fawcett, the brilliant
senior wrangler of 1890, is about to be-
gin a business career asa civil engineer.
Chicago has her counterpart in Miss
Anise De Barr, who isa duly accredited
and practicing engineer. :
Mrs. Bayard, wife off our Ambass-
ador to England, is greatly envied be-
cause she has been more than once in-
vited by the Queen to remain over
night at Windsor Castle.
The new walking skirts just clear the
ground and their length is regulated
very precisely. Of two which were
shown recently one was of black and
white check woolen goods trimmed with
black watered silk and narrow jet pas-
sementerie. Its gored skirt was lined
with black alpaca, and was trimmed
around the hem with a puff of the black
silk finished with jet top and bottom.
The bodice had a plain vest of watered
silk which laps over and was finished
with plain bretelles edged with jet.
Standing collar and belt were made of
watered silk and the full gigot sleeves
have gauntlet cuffs of the same garnish-
ed with the jet passemienterie. Tobac-
co-brown crepon and trimmed with
reed-green satin liberty and wide bands
of open-work jet galoon was the other
costume. The underskirt was covered
with a wide puff of the green satin about
half way up,which was trimmed near the
bottom with a band of the galoon. The
overskirt was slightly draped in front and
back. The bodice bas a draped vest of
green satin finished by lace bretelles,and
the belt consisted of the lace galoon with
jet pendants of difierent lengths in front
and two long black satin ends with
small loops in back. The sleeves have
bell cuffs faced with satin.
Butter lace keeps its place and ap-
pears on many wool gowns now being
on the market. A new notion is the
heading of great frills with lace. This
allows one to put all the more material
into the frill, for, of course the lace would
gather more closely than would the
heavy wool stuff. Itis imperative that
the edge of the material on to which
lace is fastened should be cut to meet
the various points of the edge of the
lace, and that the attaching be done
with buttonhole stitch in butter silk.
All this, it need hardly be said, will
add to the dresswaaker’s bill, but the wo-
man with more tire and taste than
money can do it herself, and it will be
just as satisfactory.
The majority of manicure operators
are hand mutilators. Those well-mean-
ing young women do too much scissor
work. If they understood their busi-
ness they would let the cuticle alone, as
it is & finished edge for the nail—a sort
of pearl white selvedge. Cutting, clip-
ping or tearing makes 1t ragged. Never
cut or-allow any one to cut thisrim that
frames the finger nail. Polishing the
nails destroys their natural beauty. One
treatment will make them brittle and
exhaust the insensible oil ; it will take
several months for Nature to renew her
handiwork. Once the nails are polished
and tinted the artifice will have to be
continued. It is like polishing new
shoes—alter the first application the
leather will require blacking or brown-
ing for every toilet.
The belt pin and the buckle fad will
probably keep the round waist in favor
for some time to come. The belt pins
vary in size, from small, plain silver af-
fairs (which can be bought for 75 cents)
up tothe diamond set ornaments in
prices which vary with the number
and quality of stones. The fregulation
belt is made of heavy black or white
Ottoman ribbon and fastens in front
with a large silver belt and in the
back with a small silver clasp pin, such
as I have been describing. This is va-
ried in many ways, and in adress which
is trimmed the belt is usually made of
the same material as the trimming.
Velvet is being made up as a trim-
ming in such quantities as to warrant
the belief that it is an advanced fall
style. And there is nothing prettier or
more becoming in the whole category of
trimmings.
The new tones in brown for autumn
and early winter wear show decided
tendency toward red reflections. Burnt
flour, auburn mahogany, rust color and
autumn leaf are the names by which
some of them are known ; autumn leaf
being hardly more than a dull red with
bronze shadows which show only in
folds. These shades are all more
effective if made up in plain wools
touched somewhere with velvet in deep-
er tone ; but some of the latest mater-
ials in them show checks, plaids and
even stripes accented with a thread of
definite red and gold. Along with the
red browns are seen the familiar dull
leaf shades deepened and meeting in-
to indistinct greens. The old-fashion-
ed snuff brown sv becoming to fair,
high colored complexions will also be
much worn.
To wash one’s hair isa matter re-
quiring time, or, at any rate, the drying
of it requires time.