ro Bellefonte, Pa., April 27, 1894. WHENCE. Whence come the melodies we're hearing From the tree and hill and stream ? ‘What makes the life without, within us, Sweeter than the sweetest dream ? ‘What means the joyful leap of pulses? The new and strange delight. In voices of each morning’s dawning, In whispers of the night? Oh! birds, in branch and treetop resting, With breast of blue and gold, So happy, you must needs be singing, What secrets have you told? Oh, hepy human hearts, exulting, In earth and air and sky! ‘What mean your stran gely quickened currents? You sing! you sing! Ah, why ? There is a heart of music somewhere, Where all things glad are born, That filleth us with its own gladness, With every rising morn. There is a heart of music somewhere, So wide, it holds all things; So full, it poureth out the music With which the whole earth rings. — Rosalie Vanderwater. THE BREADTH OF A HAIR. “Hear ye! Hear ye! Hear ye! All persons having further business with this circuit court and court of oyer and terminer will now draw near and give their attention so to be heard !” The crier stepped down and the judge's gavel fell thrice with sbarp, short raps. The great trial was about to begin. From every corner of the spacious court room abxious-eyed spec- tators peered expectantly toward the group of actors, each of whom was soon to play his part in the life drama which began as a comedy and would robably end as a tragedy. Up in his Potty high-backed chair sat his honor, with gold-rimmed eye glasses and gen- erally distinguished appearance ; he leaned over and made a remark to the sheriff, who nodded and replied. To the right stood the district attorney in conversation with his associate, He was a tall, dark haired man with sharp eyes and resolute face. Back of this couple was the object toward which the curious gaze of the throng was ever directed—the prisoner. Those were no ordinary features which met the curious gaze of the ou-lookers so firmly, and that was no ordinary fig- ure who sat calmly surveying the scene with no indication of emotion or even passing interest—a young man scarce: ly in his twenties, with the stature of an Apollo, expressive, cold gray eyes and pale cheeks, He was in whis- pered conversation with his attorney, a stout, little. man with gray hair, af- ter the Wilkins NE style. A ripple of excitement passed from mouth to mouth as the spectators crowded each other for a better view. ~ “What! that boy?’ said one. “Why, he’s bardly out of his swad- dling clothes !” “Yes,” responded his neighbor, “but he may be old in crime. I don’t like his face. It's too cold—hard. The speaker scrutinized the countenance before him, with the eye of a connois- seur who boasts ability to detect the faintest shadow of temptation floating ethereally across the nether side of the experienced felon’s heart. “Too hard,” he repeated, soliliquizing, ‘*“too hard 1” There was a lull in the Babel of! voices ; the jury had filed in and tak- en their seats. For a moment the cloudless face of the defendant turned toward the men into whose custody the law had intrusted the balance of his being—life, death. He studied each face earnestly. Then came a brief pause, succeeded by the reading of the indictment, which proceeding was interrupted by the confusion caused by the ejection of a drunken loafer from the crowd surrounding the doors. The reading continued, and was followed by an interval of pro- found silence, during which the prose- cuting attorney arose and began its opening address to the jury. His statement was. brief and concise ; he was not a mao of metaphors. “You will observe, gentlemen,” he said, in the course of his remarks, ‘‘as we proceed with this trial, that the de- fendant ig guilty of one of the most heinous and cold-blooded crimes ever recorded in the annals of the jurispru- dence of this county—s crime commit- ted in a moment of perfect sanity, actuated by no hope of personal re- ward, inspired by no satisfaction of private ambition, but resulting, rather, as the climax of a controversy so ordi- nary in its nature as to hardly cause in the heart of a reasonable man even a tinge of acrimony, much less re- venge. Fortunately, geutlemen, there is in this case no conflict of evidence, such as usually obscures and renders more difficult a trial of this kind. Forgetful of the consequences of his act, unconscious of the net-work of evidence which he was weaving about himself, but enly upon the grati- fication of his animosity, and the ful- filment of his awful purpose, this man proceeded to his bloody work calmly and with that spirit of coldness and unconcern which indicates the pres- ence of a depraved and criminal na- ture, taking no precaution to conceal his action or cover his footsteps. So, gentlemen, in reaching your decision you will be hampered by no doubts, troubled by no uncertainties. “We will show you that on the 20th day of June, 18—,0one Lawrence Can- ell, the prisoner at the bar, registered as a guest atthe ‘Holden house,” a small hostelry located in the village of Plymouth in this county, having ar- rived on the evening train. He was assigned a room, and the small hand bag which he carried was taken to his apartment, according to his direc- tions. He then seated himself in the office of the hotel and called for sta- tionery, which was furnished him. After having written several letters, he aroee from his chair and was about to leave the room, when a gentleman en- tered and, remarking that he had just come from the nation, inquired of the : clerk if he could secure lodging. The! clerk replied that the last room had just been secured, whereupon the de- fendant said, “I will share my room with you, if you don’t object.’ The gentleman expressed his thanks, intro duced himself as ‘James De Land,’ and having lighted a cigar and offered the defendant one, the two men sat down in the rear of the office directly within sight and hearing of the clerk, who at that time was the only other occupant of the room. “The clerk—Mr. Banks—will tell you that after having conversed upon various subjects, the defendant alluded to the political situation and expressed extreme sentiments in support of his opinions, which led to mild eriticism on the part of his new acquaintance. One suggestion followed another until a heated discussion took place. At 11 o'clock the two went to their room, still engaged in energetic conversation. Thomas Kingsley, the porter, will re- late to you that, in obedience to orders from the defendant, he went with a pitcher of ice water to the room occu- pied by the two gentlemen, and that as he approached, he heard sounds of ani- mated argument, together with excla- mations of displeasure, which contin. ued atter he entered the room and so long as he was within hearing, show- ing that the two men were in the midst of a controversy. These, gentle- men, are matters of fact and will be proven, “We will further show you by other witnesses that in the morning DeLand did not appear, nor could he be found. Upon being questioned, the defendant persisted in declaring that he knew nothing of DeLand’s departure—dog- gedly denying all knowledge of his whereabouts. “The occurrence was of such an un- usual nature that it was reported to the local authorities, who proceeded to an investigation. The investigation, gen- tlemen of the jury, resulted in the dis- covery of some interesting facts. De- Land’s hand-bag was found, partially open and covered with blood, near the bed where he had placed it on the pre- vious night. The carpet near the bed was spattered with blood, and clots were upon the pillows and covers. Furthermore, drops of blood were dis- covered leading from the door of the room througn the corridor, down a flight of stairs in the rear of the build. ing and to a stream which flows past the out-houses. At this point was a large pool of blood. Some six yards further down the stream, a hat, which was identified as that worn by DeLand was fonnd caught in some overhang: ing shrubs. “These, gentlemen, are the main facts in the case. Are they not enough ? Is there need of more con- clusive proof ? Can there exist a shad: ow of doubt in any rational mind, gen- tlemen of the jury, when we shall have proven these facts, as to the guilt of the defendant? You will be afforded an opportunity duriog the course of these proceedings to observe the ner- vous, impulsive temperament ot the defendant. His is a nature suscepti- ble to the most imaginative impres sions, capable of being inflamed by the mildest expressions of opposition or criticism. With such an intense, ac- tive disposition, under circumstances 80 likely to inspire vehemence and has- ty action, is it not possible, nay proba- ble, that a controversial remark, a sa- tirical taunt—a. smile, might have aroused the emotion of this man to its height, till enraged beyond control, in the climax of his mental agitation he gave way to wrath, and exhausted the force of his passion upon its object? lt is true in this case. Excited by the criticism which his fanatical opinions bad elicited from the lips of DeLand, the defendant fell upon him and suc- ceeded, either by the aid of a weapon or by brute force, in overcoming his victim ; and having rendered him in- sensible, he calmly carried his inani- mate body and deposited it in the water, where the swift current carried itaway. Inthe name of right and bu- manity, the people of this sfate, call upon you to punish this atrocious and terrible crime, that the blood of an in- nocent man may be avenged. Their voice is the voice of a multitude, which arises like a mighty tumult and clam- ors that justice sball be dispensed, that the punishment shall fit the crime, and that Lawrence Canell may be made to suffer the full extent of the law for the murder of James DeLand on the 20th day of June, 18—.” The district attorney resumed his seat amid the deepest silence. He busied himself with his papers, and the defendant had again turned and was speaking with his counsel. He smiled calmly as he observed the movements of the district attorney. The latter presently said : “The first witness for the prosecntion will be Sid- eon Banks.” The crier’s voice rang out—*‘Is Sideon Banks in court?’ A middle-aged gentleman, whose prominent features were a set of “Burnsides,”” came from the rear of the room and mounted the witness stand. In answer to the attorney’s questions he eaid he was clerk at the Holden house. He recollected distinctly the occurrences on the night of the 20th of June. He identified the defendant, and recited the history of the case more in detail, but substantially as the district attorney had done. The cross- examination was a prolonged, a clever bat unsuccessful attempt to confuse the witness, and he was finally die- missed. The next winess sworn was Thomas Kingsley, the porter. He corrobora- ted the statements of the district attor- ney as to his knowledge of the affair, His manner was 80 aggressive that the defendant’s learned counsel had occa- | sion several times during the cross ex- | amination to rebuke him. “A prose- cution,” said the counsel, *‘is not nec essarily a persecution.” But the evi- dence remained unaltered. As the witness left the stand, the ex- citement of the epectators demonstra. | ted itself by frequent ejaculations and whispered conversation here and there, | Jouston Peruse, the sheriff of the county, was next called. He testified that he had conducted the examina- tion at the Holden house. He was the one also who found the hat of the missing man. An argument between the attorneys took place at this point regarding the admission of this evi- dence, James King, M. D., a corpulent entleman, whose voice reminded one of Schubert's Serenade in B flat major, took the stand. He swore that he was the coroner. He had investigated every feature of the case. He was prepared with a whole arsenal of medical phas- es and terms of the profession. The cross-examination revealed the fact that, while this “expert” could detect with difficulty the difference between the blood corpuscles of a human being and those of other animals, he could not estimate the specific gravity of the pancreatic juice. He swore that the blood discovered at the Holden house was human blood. The district attorney conferred with his associate, and then announced that the people would rest. The court took a recess. The first witness called by the de- fense was the prisoner himself. After the usual preliminary questions, the counsel asked : “Do you recollect the night of the 20th of June last 2" “I do, sir, distinctly.’ “Where were you that night ?” “I left Bolton City at 5 o'clock and arrived at the Holden house in Ply- mouth at 8 o’clock.” “State what occurred at the Holden house after you arrived ?”’ The witness related what took place up to the time of his going to bed with DeLand, verifying the statements of the other witnesses. “Had you ever known DeLand pre- vious to this meeting ?”’ “I had not.” “Did the conversation upon political subjects, which vou say you bad, coun- tinue after you had reached your room ?” . “Te did.” “And when did it stop?” “As soon as we were in bed.” “About what time was that ?”’ “Nearly half-past 11.” “State to the jury, what else, if any- thing, occurred after that,” “That is all I recollect, sir. In the morning when I awoke, DeLand was not in the room ; I supposed he had arisen and gone down staire, I dressed and, after eating my breakfast I prepared to depart.” “Well 77 “The sheriff met me at the door and took me into custody.” “Is this all you know of the affair 2’ “Positively all.” The district attorney smiled compla- cently, while a murmur of contempt passed from mouth to mouth. In the tace of these demonstrations the wit- ness sat unmoved, with erect head, The district attorney rose slowly to croes examine. ‘So you were discussing political af- fairs, eb ?”’ The witness assented. “It was rather a heated argument, wasn't it?” “We were both very much interest- ed. “And was it not a fact that you were — woth a little— well, angry 7” “We might—" “Answer my question !”’ “Yes, sir—but—"" “And didn’t DeLand criticize your sentiments somewhat severely ?"’ “He said he was surprised that I should entertain such views, and that when I was older and had had more experience, I would see what a fool I had made of myself.” “Is that all he said ?” “Yes, sir—all.” “Well, now, Canell, when you arose in the morning, did you notice any blood spots on the carpet or anywhere in the room ?" “No, sir—I—" “What I” “No, sir, 1 did not.” “Did you see any blood in the room at any time hereafter ?”’ “When the officers took me up to the room they pointed out the spots.” “And isn’t it a fact, sir, that in order to leave the room in the morning you were obliged to pass directly over the place where the blood was ?” “Yes, sir.” “And do you mean to swear that in walking to the door you did not see the blood ?” “I do, sir.” The counsel glanced knowingly at the jury. “Well, now, Canell, from the time you arose until the time when you pre- pared to depart from the hotel you say you did not see DeLand ?” “Yes sir.” “Did you make any inquiries con- cerning hie whereabouts during that time ?”’ “#J—no, sir.” “That is all.” “I have one more question,” said the defendant's lawyer, rising, “Is your eyesight good ?” “No, sir, I have suffered from a stig- matism for years.” Several witnesses were called to tes- tify to the previous good reputation of the accused. The defense closed. The address of the defendant’s coun- sel was a magnificent effort. He em- ployed the few resources available with the science of a master-hand, and aroused the admiration of his auditors —but it was the compassion which . ‘the energy of one who struggles for a lost cause arouses in the hearts of sym- pathizers rather than the approbation which observers express to one who prosecutes a meritorious mission, And so, while the defendant’s counsel pleased the ears of the listeers, the dis- trict attorney appealed to their judg- ment. The eloquence of the one was entertaining ; the argument of the oth- . er was effective. The charge of the court was neutral and brief. The jury filed out amid op- pressive silence. During the proceedings the prisoner had maintained the stoical indifference which characterized his demeanor at (the first. He displayed now po evi- ! dence of anxiety, and when after twen. | ty minutes had elapsed, the men came i slowly back and took their places, he | showed no signs of even passing inter- est. The clerk of the court arose. “Gentlemen of the jury, have you agreed upon your verdict ?'’ “We have,” replied (he foreman. “What say you, gentlemen, is the prisoner at the bar guilty or not guil- ty 2 “Guilty.” : A murmur of applause came from the spectators. The prisoner smiled. * * % Two men sat in the “smoker” of a train conversing over their cigars. “Speaking of adventures of that kind,” remarked one, ‘reminds me of an experience I once had. I was one day called on professional business to Kingston, and in order to reach that city from my home in the western part of the state, I was obliged to change cars at a small town up the line called Plymouth. Owing to delays I was compelled to remain over night at the latter place. Having arrived late, I went immediately to the hotel, where I occupied a room jointly with a young fellow who smoked cigaretts and talked anarchy. After going to bed, I suddenly remembered that, having made my toilet hastily before leaving home, I had forgotten my pocket-book. I had used all the change in my pock- et in purchasing a ticket. This wor- ried me, Finally, however, [ fell sound asleep. Early the tollowing morning I had a severe attack of nose- bleed. I arose and after dressing left my room and went to the rear of the building, where was a stream of water ; here I succeeded in stopping the hem- orrhage, although I lost my hat in do- ing so. It occurred to me that I would save myself considerable embarrass- ment by not returning to the hotel, as I had no money with which to pay my bill ; so going directly to the station, I awaitea my train and proceeded to my destination. Subsequently I inclosed the amount of my bill at the hotel and forwarded it to the proprietor without explanation, he regarded the maneuver.” The speaker paused, attracted by the peculiar expression on his companion’s face. “What the devil’s the matter with you, man? You're paler than a ghost 1” The other’s lips trembled a little. “Oh, nothing ; you see I am the dis- trict attornev of county. A year ago I prosecuted and convicted a man for murdering you; I'm on my way to this execution now, he swings in—Iet me see—,”’ and he looked at his watch —“two hours and twenty minutes,—I —I—am glad I met you, sir,”’—From Romance. Chicagoans Are Alarmed. The Smallpox Epidemic Appears to Be Beyond Control. Cuicago, April 21. — Smallpox in ~~ Chicago has again excited the attention of the Board of Health of the States adjacent to Illinois. A secret meeting of health officials was held at the Grand Pacific Hotel to-day. Con- sternation seized the local health offi- cials when it was hinted that the quar- antine against Chicago might be declar- ed by Wisconsin, Minnesota, Indiana, and possibly Michigan, as the result of reports concerning the growth of the epidemic. The ceclaration of a quarantine was averted some months ago only by the statements of Dr. Reynolds that he then virtually had the plague under the con- trol of his department. Notwithstand- ing his argument at that time, smallpox bas increased 100 per cent, as the re- ports for January, February and March and thus far in April, show. During March there were 305 cases, being an average of little less than ten per day. In February there were 233 cases, an average of a little less than nine per day. In January there were. 189 cases, an average of aboutsix perday. This shows a gradual increase from month to month, making a total of 627 cases. The pesthouse is overcrowded with patients. Several suspect cases are be- ing cared for at the County Hospital, now under quarantine, and at several private houses, chiefly in the thick- ly populated sections of the city. The danger of caring for smallpox at the County Hospital, where 750 pa- tients were under treatment Five fully developed cases of smallpox were re- moved yesterday from the hospital to the pesthouse. ——The next notable oil field in the United States may be found in Kansas, Prospectors are busy in the State sink- ing test wells, and in several instances oil and gas have been developed in such quantities as to warrant the building of tanks for storage. With refining facili- ties the oil will be worth nearly as much in Kansas for the local supply of adja- cent markets as it is at the seaboard, and a new value will be given to all farm lands which are underlaid with the oil-bearing sand rocks. ——Ex-Presidont Harrison, having completed his legal lecture course atthe Leland Stanford, jr., university, Cali- fornia, returned to his home at Indian- apolis on Saturday. At Chicago the newspaper men waylaid him, but he re- fused to discuss politics and all they could get out of him was the announce - ment that he means to devote himself to the practice of his profession. ——Governor Tillman has been de- feated in his attempt to solve the liquor I’ve often wondered how | question in South Carolina by a novel plan, but it is by the courts and not by his political opponents. He was doubt- less in advance of histime, but the experiment will not prove fruitless.— Phila. Press ee — | —— Another coincidence between the calamity howler and the dogwood tree is that the latter's bark is of no value, ! either. . Life Among a Primitive People. | In the country districts men and wo | men alike usually wear only onearticle ! of clothing, a sort of petticoat, fastened | tight around the waist by the men and | just above the breast by the women. | Some of the women adopt the style of | the men as giving greater coolness and freedom. In the neighborhood of the towns they generally add an npper gar- ment made somewhat in the style of a close-fitting night-gown, and either fastened in front or not, according to the taste of the wearer. The children in many cases omit even the chest-pro- tector worn by our young fellow-travel- ler on the steamer. These little brown cherubs, with rounded bodies and well- ‘formed limbs, look like bronzestatues as they stand in the bright sunshine gaz- ing curiously at the passing strangers. About ten miles from Garoet is a small lake called Bagendit. The road, smooth and in good order, runs be- tween rice-fields rising on either side in well-kept terraces. Men and women, standing up to their knees in mud, were turning up the rich black soil and preparing for the new crop. Gray or flesh-colored buffaloes, with hides like pig-skins, wallowed in the muddy wa- ter, looking up with languid, indiffer- ent gaze as we rattled past. Sturdy brown children sported gayly among their four-footed companions in all the freedom and innocence of nature’s own garb. We felt that we were nearer the great warm heart of Mother Earth than ever before. As we neared the lake the villagers turned out in force to receive us. Ten or twelve hastened away to prepare the boats, while the remainder squat- ted down in silent respect. It was like the villages ove reads of in the works of African explorers. The low one- storied huts of light bamboo poles, en- closed with palm mats and thatched with leaves, seemed hardly capable of affording protection against the fierce rays of the sun. We made our way through the single street, followed, at a respectful distance by a throng of cu- rious but timid natives. At the water's edge we found the advance guard busi- ly engaged in constructing a most pe- culiar craft. Four long narrow can- oes, each hollowed from the trunk of a large tree, were arranged side by side. On these was placed a sort of summer- house of light bamboo poles, rooted and floored with bamboo matting. In this floating house, which was about eight feet square, chairs were placed for our accommodation. Sitting at our ease we were paddled slowly out into the lake, our rowers squatting up- on the bow and stern of each dugout, and propelling the cumbrous vessel with small spoon-shaped oars not un- like a child's sand-shovel. We forced our way through large fields of lily pads, each leaf being two feet or more in diameter. The flowers, as large as a quart measure, were a beautiful pink and deliciously fragrant. The seeds, as we proved by actual experiment, make excellent eating, and are much prized by the natives.—From “A Lit- tle Journey in Java,’by Frederic M. Burr in Harper's Magazine for May. Patti, Her Maid and Her Husband. Patti has quaffed so deeply from the intoxicating cup of good fortune that she has in her later days become capri- cious, gusty in temper, fickle and inor- dinately vain. And now Nicolini is “kicking,” and there is, so rumor says, a possible divorce case looming up in the near future. But Patti has a ruler, and it is not her husband, Nicolini, but her waiting maid Caroline Bauermeister 1s her name, and she is a shrewd, clever German woman, who watches over Patti like a dog. This woman is the same Caroline whom the Marquis de Caux, Patti’s first husband hated so bit- terly. The bone of contention in the case is Caroline again, and Nicolini, it is said, swears that he will get a divorce from La Diva unless the wily maid is shipped. Patti will never part with Caroline, who has literally grown to be a part of her life. Nicolini is a fancier of old violins, and would go from Hades to Hoboken for a Stradivarius or a Guar- nerius. He buys whenever he gets a chance, and always pays a liberal figure. That is what Patti has discovered, when she footed the bills for this very costly and recherche tastc. Now she person- ally superintends the buying of old fiddles tor her spouse. Nicolini chafes under this restraint and knows that he is watched by Caroline, and has openly declared in this city that he would get a divorce unless matters changed. The correspondent’s name is, obviously enough, not mentioned. It1s rumored that Patti’s wealth 1s by no means, what it is represented to be. Sheis out- rageously extravagant, and lavishes an- nually an enormous sum on her castle at Oraig-y-Nos, in Wales. She keeps 60 servants, and with her big dressmak- er’s bills-Worth’s most finished master- pieces in ‘‘confections,” it you please— she contrives tospend a royal amount every year. She has not made much money lately, and dear old boy Nico- lini, you know, feeling that there might be a ‘krach” some day, is perbaps get- ting ready to pull out and get to his beloved Paris, with something saved to live on for the balance of his days, not unlke the existence led by his predecess- or, Marquis de Caux, who chased pleasure to its very lair until his death. —— A discovery of gold-bearing rock of extraordinary richness is reported in California, on the Colorado River, about sixteen miles northwest of Yuma at a point on the line of the Southern Pacific Railroad. The rock is so ac- | cessible as to be cheaply mined. and of | a quality easily pulverized for the pur- pose ot extracting gold. The different grades of ore produced yield from $250 to $44,000 per ton; and it is estimated | that an annual product of from $2 000,- | 000 to $3.000,000 wiil be mined for | many years to come. Ic is likely that | this valuable find, which is located in | a small spur of the Chuckawallah range of mountains, will lead to dili: gent prospecting in the region there- about, and doubtless to further dis- covery. ! | —— Germany has 26,000 breweries. For and About Women. Mrs. Ballington Booth resides at Montclair, N. J. She is the mother of a sturdy little son of 6 years and a baby girl 16 months old. Although she is so much engaged in lecturing and other Salvation Army work, her bome is well kept and ber children are healthy and sunny tempered. Mrs. Booth manages to make her trips short, with frequent returns home, where all time, aside from ker office work, is devoted to her children. Many of the French dresses have in- stead of a stiff sleeve lining, a box-plait- ing of crinoline sewed in with the sleeve on the shoulder about 8 or 4 inches in depth ; this answers the pur- pose of holding out the sleeves, and is not so heavy. The fancy tor wearing jewelry is growing and long wateh chains are becoming popular again. If the lovely jeweled ones are beyond the limit of price, then the old fashioned gold ones which have been in oblivion for years. may be brought for duty. A brooch fustens it at the neck, and it may be festooned lower down and lose itself in ihe trimming of the dress, sug- gesting a dainty little watch tucked away in the folds. Tiny jeweled combs, to be worn at the side of the head, with the bair coif- fured in old-style manner, are also being widely introduced. Pongee silk in its natural ecru shade is used for shirt waists, which are made very simply with turnover collars and cuffs and bishop sleeves. The really “smart” shirt is made of colored cham- bray, with white linen collars and cuffs. Large brown velvet rose, black velvet ox-eyed daisies, with yellow hearts, and black velvet violets are the latest nova elties in millinery. Eton and blazer suits for women’s seaside gowns and suits for small boys are being made of linen duck in natural shades. Mrs. Mary E. Willard, president of the American Home School, in Berlin, has given to the Association of College Alumna a scholarship 10 modern lan- guages, including board and tuition for one year in that institution. It may be considered as established that for the next two months the best- dressed women will wear coats and skirts For these, cloths, tweeds, and cheviots have reappeared in all their pristine elegance, The newest tailor coats are shorter than the three-quarter Prince Albert that has been worn this winter, although Adolphe, Redfern, and Doucet are still making the long garment to the knees. Coats are worn both single and double breasted, and the garcon de cafe jacket keeps its popularity. For spring these fetching little jackets are worn with vests of cloth or pique, and a dicky. A charming model that was made recently for the races was of navy-blue and white cloth in large, solid-looking checks. The shirt had a plain narrow front breadth, finished at the top on either side with three large exquisitely carved buttons, which gave the chic to the gown. All the seams of the skirt were made over-lapping, and piped with dark blue, and in each side of the narrow front breadth was set a very narrow panel, slashed in the middle as high as the knee, piped with blue, and finished with a button. The waiter jacket had revers faced with blue cloth. A low double-breasted vest of white pique, finished with a small revers, and a puffed dicky—if it might be called a dicky. It looked like the old-fashioned puffing that people used to buy by the yard, and was completed by a high straight collar, and worn with a black tie. The sleeves were pleated at the top in a box pleat with three side pleats on either side, and finished at the bottom with a cuff piped with dark blue. White pique and duck costumes seem to be iess talked about for this year than the fine checked cotton cheviots and the fancy linens. And blouses will have soft fronts instead of the severely starch- ed things, exactly like the chemises d’homme that were worn last summer. Some pretty little riding-habits have been seen lately with short cut-away coats worn over polka-dotted shirts with stiff collars and men’s ties. There is no purfume more generally agreeable than the clean, sweet odor of orris root. Violet satchet powder if of a very fine quality and so faint as to be the mere suggestion ot a perfume, is gen- erally pleasant. Rose musk and other stronger scents give many an unpleasant sensation of faintness or even nausea, and are always open tothe disagreeable suspicion of being used for counteract. purposes. After all, as Henry Ward Beecher said : “There is no smell so universally pleasant as no swell,” and absolute daintiness of person attracts far more than any perfumery can do. The tight, high neckbands of winter costumes invariably form a dark line about the neck, unless some precaution is taken to avoid it, and the mark is positively disfiguring when a low-cut bodice is assumed. To prevent this stain or to remove it after it bas been formed, bathe the neck and chest every morning in cold water, not by means of the wash cloth, but by leaning over the basin and laying the parts with the water, applied by hand- fuls ; then dry with soft towel, and rub briskly with a crash towel until the skin is hot and glowing. This simple method, it foilowed faithfully, will whiten the throat quickly and beautifully. The skirts and their adjustments— their loopings, their ruffles, their zig- zags—are fin de siecle. Thereis a ten- dency to trim them lengthwise instead of on the round as last year—to hide the seams under lace or embroidery or assementerie or ribbon ; this, of course, engthens the figure and is therefore not altogether desirable for very tall women. Walking coats are still more ! worn here than capes, though the re- , verse is the case in Paris.