oi sa —— =
Democratic; atc,
Bellefonte, Pa., April 6, 1894.
GIT AWL YU KIN.
I b’leeve it's each man’s duty
In gittin through this life,
Tu go er kinder easylike—
Not have no sweat nur strife,
Let things come out the best the will—
Course don’t rush inter sin—'
But when yu're gettin anything
Git awl yu kin.
If yu air goin to buy some shoes
(Them’s very needful things,)
Just ask the clerk if he won’t please
Throw in some extra strings.
Yu’ll git the shoes fur just the samne—
‘It won't take no more tin—
But when yu're gettin anything
Git awl yu kin.
If it’s a shirt yu're goin tu buy,
Yu want tu make a holler—
Jest brace right up tu him an say
He must throw in a coller.
Ther mite be times when this won't go.
But she’ll most allus win—
So when you're gettin anything
Git awl yu kin.
The same holds good in goin tu church;
- 8’pesin yu git the “power,”
Git enough tu last yure life
Instid of half anthour.
I tell yu, boys, jy ides is,
An it has allus bin, 3
That when yu're gettin anything
Git awl yu kin. ;
--Brooklyn Life.
THAT LITTLE MISS MORGAN.
Such a jolly house party as it was, |
so entirely congenial and altogether eat- |
isfactory. Mrs. Rogers in the seclu-
sion of her boudoir, had confided to
Mr. Rogers that never in all the years
that she had ‘been leading society by
the nose had she accomplished any-
thing so gratifying to her pride of gen-
eralship as dn the present instance,
when she bad gathered under her roof
eight people ‘thoroughly in harmeny,
one with ithe-other, without one single
disturbing element.
“There are the Bradfords,”” she went
on, pointing to her little finger as
though the aforesaid Bradfords were
transformed into that white atom on
which a slender marquise of rubies and
diamonds.glistened. “Sach nice peo-
ple, the Bradfords. I always did love
Cissy; and for Tom, he is simply
adorable—aot too fiirtatious and yet
not ‘absurdly wrappea up im his
wife.
“Plays:a good game of billiards,
too,” put in Mr. Rogers. who was
standingewith his back to the rroaring
fire, which was a feature in every
seom of the house. As he stoed there
his. grand height emphasized by his
evening ¢lothes any man would bave
called IDidk Rogers handsome, and no
man could have withstood thewitching
beauty - of his better-half as she sat
curled ap in a great bronze velvet chair
‘her hairiwndone, and in one of those
nondescript affairs of silk and lace that
women «don when they wish to be
“comfy”
It goeswwithout saying that the Rog-
.ers were handsome pair, vherefore it
is not any great wonder that they al-
ways gathered around themthe clever-
eet :men :aod prettiest women. This
house party was especially moted for
its component elements ofall that go
to make house parties a success, for
‘before the Bradfords, whom rs. Rog-
.ers has already eulogized, there were
the twol Denton girls under the wing of
-the model-couple, and of course where-
-ever thosextwo famous beauties put in
an appearence could be reckoned with
-abeolute esrtainty the presence of Ted-
dy 'Bonten and Hal Cantright, the
wealthy esusin of the fair hostess.
‘eddy:and Hal, with Bertie and
‘Mabell Demton, made a gay .quartette
that were not at all embarrassed by
the knowledge that their world had
long decide that they were to pair off
in iregnlation style. The men were
fond of the girls and the girls recipro-
cated, but tke time had not yet come
when the:dewy stillness of the conser-
vatory en tele a tete was preferable to
a.gay cotillien a dreamy waltz; there-
fore,sthoughstacitly engaged, they were
notin that spoony stage that sadly
fetters the movements of others, in the
same house @wing to the constant care
necescary to be taken before entering
.anyrreom abruptly, where ualess a fit
-of coughing er most decided eouffling
giveswarningof the approach .of an
outsider the emraptured couple may be
.diseovered in blisstul but uoconven-
tional «embraess. The widow, young
and frisky, and the major, no lenger
goung'but decidedly frisky, completed
the party, and for a week nothing more
absolutely blissful than the hammory
én that.exaggerated Queen Anne ©ot-
tage could be imegined.
Attheend of the first seven daysa
terrible. dewn pour (of that brown rain
that 1blote out all hope of its ever
clearing up, despite the rainbow reas:
surance, necessitated indoor amuse-
meats in lace of the skating and w-|
bogganning that had been the chief |
delight heretofore. Thus it happeved
upon the second morning of the storm
a rather listless groupeat about in the
pretty morning-room, éndulging in pro-
phecies regarding the aveather. Mabel
Dentor and Mrs. Fairlie, the widow,
had been trying a duet, while the
Major polite tothe last, bad insisted
upon turaing ower the eaves of the
music, though if he had told the trath
his old enemy the gout was making it-
self felt in his foot, and he vould have
much preferred to remain seated, and
in parenthesic we may add so also
would the young women whom he was
endeavoring to aesist have chosen
for him.
“Here comes John with the mail,”
«called out Hal, who had been standing
by the window watching a group of un-
happy chickens who were huddled to-
gether at the end of the lawn.
#§ wonder if I get anything,” said
pretty Blonde Bertie as she rose and
crossed over to join her adorer by the
window,
“Really the coming of the mail is
quite g diversion,” yawned Mrs.
Fairlie,
“We haven't had a dull moment un-
til this morning,” apologized Mrs. Rog-
ers, who felt that the horrible weather
was intended as a deliberate and per-
sonal affront. “That is the first yawn
I have heard save at two in the morn-
ing,” and she playfully patted the
stylish little body in black, who there-
upon promptly apologized and blamed
ber lack of manners upon the weather,
a fashion which many of us have when
we wish to shift the blame from our
own shoulders.
The Bradfords, happy couple, were
deeply engrossed in cribbage, and
hardly looked up when the dripping
John brought the mail-bag into the
room. “Fifteen two, fifteen four anda
pair is six, and a double run makes
fourteen. That takes me around the
corner, Tom.”
“Yes, but wait. I have—"
“A letter for you, Tom,” here broke
in the major, “and one for Mrs. Tom,
too. Bertie and Mabel, of course, have
several, some envelopes for the boys,
strongly suggestive of bills, and such a
bulky one for our hostess.”
“And not evep one tiny little one for
me,” pouted Mrs. Fairlie.
“I am sorry,” gallantly responded
the major “but there is not even one
tiny little bit of a one.”
“Qh, pshaw 1” came the exclamation
from Mrs. Rogers, “here is a nice
mess,” and regardless of the rather in-
elegant manner in which she had choe-
en to break the news of her letter to her
guests. Mrs. Rogers read aloud that
portion which had been the cause of
her verbal explogion :
Therefore, dear Tina, you may expect
me on the 25th. Ever yours,
EVELYN.
“Now, isn’t that just like a girl of 17
to rush in on a made-up party, neither
knowing nor caring whether she will
be welcome or not 7”
“Who is she ?”’ came the question
from the women, who intuitively scent-
ed a rival in this youthful intruder,
while the men, endeavoring to appear
quite unconcerned, most palpably
overacted their part, which fact did not
escape the keen.eyes of those to whom
they had been all attention for a week,
and which made them all the more de-
termined if possible to suppress this
novelty, for it is that element in both
life and love that proves most danger-
ous to cope with.
“Eleven is such an awkward num-
ber,” put in Mrs. Fairlie, who was too
wise a woman mot to realize that
though she were young the major
might prefer a'mate still younger.
“] will write and tell her not to come,
she is my godchild, and one must be
civil to one’s religious relations even
though we turn our own flesh and
blood away.”
“You couldn’t-delay her coming even
though you wanted to,” putin her hus-
band. “She saysithe twenty-fifth, and
if I am not wery mmuch mistaken the
calendar declares that to be this very
day.”
“Goodness gracious, go it is,” says
Mrs. Rogers in a tone that would
been 80 unfortunate as to hear it. Mrs.
Bradford looked up at this point from
her “crib” and electrified those who
were eagerly discussing the unwelcome
visitor by exclaiming: ‘There's a
hired hack turning into the driveway
now, and judging by the big trunk
strapped on behind, your visitor has ar-
rived.
A hush fell upon the little group,
and though they were too polite to
the occupant-ef the cab, they all waited
with more or less eagerness the en-
trance iato their midst of the youug
as “Miss/Evelyn Morgan.” ;
Mrs. Rogers, recovering the compos:
ure that for a moment had deserted
her, arose and crossed the room to
where a tiny figure in gray stood in the
doorway. one would have
thought from the warmth of her
greeting that she could ever have given
vent to the unkind expressions that
her visitor's letter had brought forth,
and it must be admitted that after
looking into the deep brown eyes that
sought hers for welcome she was se-
cretely sorry that she had so far for-
gotten her usual courtesy.
The girl whom she now introduced
to the inmates of the room was one of
those indesenibatile creatures who ap-
pear radiaatly beautiful at certain
tines and positively ugly at others.
Before a word had been said the men
pronounced her “fetching,” svhile the
women less taken with that nonde-
script air that counts for much bad
thought her ‘‘scrawney,” asd settled
themselves with an air of pleased con-
viction that this gelden-haired brown-
eyed child was not & bit dangerous.
By night, however, the new element
began to make itself felt. for Evelrp, in
a white evening gown, was undeniably
«charming and her weeent trip abroad
had furnished her with manners and
modes that were decidedly chic. “The
men with one accord became her
slaves and the women her enemies.
Instead of each one hawing her own es-
pecial cavalier, that pretty child in the
most unconscious fashion monopolized
all the masculine attention to the un-
disguised disgust of those who had
formerly found nothing to complain
of.
“] think it 18 perfectly disgusting to
see a young girl so forward,” said Mrs.
Bradford to her husband that evening
when she kad occasion to take her
husband to task for playing euchre
with the new comer, rather than in-
dulging the usual game of cribbage
with herself. “Hal and Teddy act ab-
solutely daft about that girl's Freach
songe, I can’t say I see much in them
myself, but then men are always ab-
surdly fond of a woman who looks ut-
terable things with her eyes,” criticised
Mabel Wenton, as the maid brushed
out her smooth brown hair.
“Y think she makes them up,” as-
sented Bertie, “No woman could
and yet after all iI can’t do that, for |
freeze the expected guest it she had
crane their necks to get a good view of |
girl whom staid old Collins announced |
have naturally such taffy-colored hair
and black lashes.”
The widow, having no ove to com-
mune with, spoke aloud her own
thoughts in terse sentences that ran
thus: “The major’s an old fool. I
don’t suppose he has an idea what an
idiot he looked tying that chit’s shoe,
but then it she only looks at him he
acts as though he had been transported
to the seventh heaven. After all, it's
youth that tells. I know I look only
twenty-five at night, but in the morning
the extra six years show plainly, while
that girl can sit in the strong light,
and, if anything, looks sweeter and
younger at breakfast time than at din-
ner.”
The hostess, godmother to this bit of
lovely contention, was not above the
common grievance, and poor Rogers,
who never in all bis life before remem-
bered receiving a lecture, was chided
very severely for attempting to take
part in an old English glee which
Evelyn had suggested.
“You known you can’t sing, there-
fore why make yourself ridiculous.
This child seems to have bewitched
you all. She has but tonod and you
men all flock to do her bidding. I
knew that eleven was a bad number.
Thus it may beseen that the unin-
vited member of the house party was
causing in her quiet way a world of
dissension. The men unanimously
approved of her, but after a few days
they began to look one upon the other
with suspicion, and rivalries hitherto
unknown sprang up and flourished like
green bay trees. The chums, Teddy
and Hal, finally only spoke in the pre-
sence of the ladies. The old major
was sarcastic and biting, and he and
the widow were now but barely civil
to each other. Mrs. Bradford and the
Denten girls resolved to leave before
their time was up, and Mrs. Rogers,
unhappy, wretched hostess that she
was, longed, oh, so ardently for the
breaking up of this house party which
had begun so auspiciously.
Meanwhile the lovely cause of it all
danced and rode, sang and flirted, wear-
ing her Paris gowns and her pretty
foreign airs with unconscious grace,
she was making, and thoroughly en-
joying herself despite dark looks and
cutting words. On Friday the Dentons
had annonnced their intention of going
though the following Tuesday would
but finish out the expected fortnight.
@n Thursday morning the mail as
usual brought its preity diversion and
in the business of reading the letters
the undercurrent of jealousy was for
the time forgotten. A foreign envelope
enclosed Evelyn's one favor and each
man had almost broken his neck in
ithe wild effort to be the one to hand it
ber. The major coming oft victorious
sat and beamed contentedly, while the
chums scowled and Bradford and Rog-
ers did their best to chew off the ends
of their respective blonde mustaches.
In the lull that followed Evelyn rose
joyful little ery, her girlish face radi:
tremulous, eager voice said: “I've
such good news, auntie,”” this being
Mrs. Roger's pet appellation. ‘My
fiancee sails from Harve to-day. He
meet Jack down the bay on a tug, and
| as much as I hate to go I must leave
here tomorrow.’
“Her fiancee |” If a bombshell had
| exploded in their midstit could have
caused no greater commotion.
‘Teddy and Hal looked sheepishly at
each other, then at Mabel and Bertie.
Strange that they bad never noticed
before what really lovely girls they
were. The major picked up his paper
and crossed over to where the widow
wae sitting. The Bradfords began a
a game of cribbage, and the happy
hostess went out to see about sending
Collins at once with that dispatch.
On the morrow a small person in gray
rode away in a hired cab, the Dentons
decided to remain until Tuesday, and
theannouncement of three engagements
a month later proved that the house
party was a success after all. —Edi'h
Townsend Everett.
Weddings Among the Lolos.
The Bride Perches in a Tuee Till the Groom
Capidures Her.
Among the Lolos of Western China
it is customary for the bride on the
wedding morning to perch herself on
the highest branch .of a large tree,
while the elder female members of her
family eluster pn the lower limbs, arm-
ed with sticks. When all are duly
stationed the bridegroom clambers vp
on the tree assailed oun all sides by
blows, pushes and pinches from the
dowagers, and itis not until he has
broken through their fence and cap-
tured the bride that he is allowed to
carry her off.
Similar difficulties assail the bride-
groom amoung the Mongolian Koraks,
who are in the habit of celebrating
their marriage inglarge tents, divided
into numerous compartments.
At a given signal, as soon as the
guests are assembled, the bride starts
off through the compartments followed
by her wooer, while the women of the
encampment throw every possible im-
pediment in his way, tripping up his
unwary feet, holding down the curtains
to prevent his passage, and applying
the willow and alder switches unmer-
cifully as he stoops to raise them.
As with the maiden on the horse
and the virgin on the tree-top, the
Korak bride is invariably captured,
however much the possibilities of es-
cape may be in her favor.
~——Tramp—‘‘Madan. I was not al-
ways thus.”
Madam—*‘No. It was your other arm
you had in a sling this morning.
having not the slighest idea of the havoc
and went to the windaw to read her
letter. Suddenly the thin sheets fell
unheeded to the ground, and witha
aot with happiness, she turned to the
group in the pretty room, and in a
will join me in New York. I must
{ wire to father at once, 80 that we con
The Private Palace Car.
It costs about $50 a day, says the
\ Philadelphia Times, to hire a complete- |
(ly furnished and palatial dwelling
| house on wheels, containing seventeen
beds. In front is an ‘observation
| room.” Next come two drawing rooms
| both fairly spacious. Behind these is a
| dining room twelve feet long. The
middle part of the car is occupied by
berths, which are comfortable sofas dur-
ing the day. In the rear are a good-
sized kitchen, a china closet, a pantry,
a bathroom and a cold storage closet.
All linen for table and beds, tableware,
crockery and every other necessary are
supplied. Three servants are provided,
also without extra charge—a skilled
cook, a waiter and a porter, who are
under the orders of the tenant. Heat-
ing and lighting are thrown in. After
ten days the rental is somewhat less per
diem.
Thus luxuriously housed, the occu-
pant can travel wherever he wishes all
over the continent by paying the rail-
ways eighteen fares for transportation.
However, if more than eighteen passen-
gers are carried in the car, so many ex-
tre, fares must be paid. He can stop at
what ever point he desires and have his
car side-tracked.
If he chooses he can bring along his
own servants, linen, tableware and
wines. He is at liberty to furnish the
commissariat himself, or the company
will supply everything in that way for
him, charging only 15 per cent over and
above cost and rendering to him the
bills, The latter is far the better plan,
inasmuch as trouble is saved and affairs
are attended to more satisfactorily by
the company.
The cook is a capable person, and,
having a time schedule for a journey
across the continent, he will telegraph
ahead to various points for such luxur-
ies as may be obtainable at the markets
in different cities, thus arranging for
fresh fruits, butter and eggs, and even
for a newly cut bouquet tobe put on
the table.
All this issusceptible of variation.
One can engage an ordinary sleeping
car for $40, a sleeping car with buffet
for $45, or dining and observation car
combined for $40. A hunting car, pro-
vided with kennels for dogs, racks for
guns, fishing tackle, etc., cost only $35
a day. Serviceand all incidentals are
thrown in.
But one.can do better than this if he
has plenty of money to spare. He can
hire a complete traveling hotel for $210
a day, in the shape of an entire train,
consisting of four sleeping cars, a dining
car and a “buffet smoker.” An obser-
vation ear may be added at an expense
of $40 more. The buffet smoker repré-
sents in some respects the highest devel-
opement of the modern parlor car. It
includes a bar, a barber shop, a bath-
room and a library, wherein can be
found books, writing materials and the
newest magazines and pictorial and
daily papers.
In short, it is a small club on wheels.
There is no other country in the world
where luxury in traveling is so highly
appreciated as it is in the United States.
Abroad is is said that the only people
who go by rail “first class” are the
nobility «and the Americans. Ot
course, the person who charters a whole
train must pay the railways for trans-
portation of at least eighteen fares per
car, though west of the Mississippi the
minimum rate is usually fifteen fares.
No car can be rented for the prices
given for less than three days.
It has recently become the fashion
for actresses to travel in private cars.
Nowadays a conspicuous star usually
insists on being provided with such a
conveyance as part of the contract for a
tour which she sign with her manager.
Bernhart always carries a small * mane-
gerie with her, which could not very
well be accomodated in a public vehicle.
Theatrical companies very commorly
hire cars while traveling.
Diaing cars are usually owned by the
railways and are managed by the palace
car companies, Ordinarily they are
run ata considerable loss, being attach-
ed to trains merely as an attraction to
passengers. The expense of conducting
them is enormous. To begin with,
there is a steward, who has full charge
—superintends everything, looks after
the comfort of the guests, takes in the
money for meals and makes reports to
the company. He receives $100 a
month. There are four cooks, because
many dishes have to be prepared at
once and without delay. The head
cook gets $75 and the other three are
paid respectively $55, $40 and $30 a
month. The five waiters get merely
nominal wages, depending chiefly upon
tips for remuneration. For food the
expenditure varies from $1,000 to $1,
500 a month for each car.
In different cities all over the country
there are dealers trom whom the com-
pany regularly buys provisions. The
steward attends to this, paying cash al-
ways and rendering the receipted bills
to his employers. At principal points,
however, the company has salaried buy-
ers, who supply the cars at starting, so
that the stock of provisions need only be
supplemented by the steward with per-
ishable articles and in case that any-
thing runs short. These buyers go to
market every morning at 4 o'clock.
They select whatever is best, just as
the steward for a hotel would do, pur-
chasing at a considerable discount from
regular prices. Each car has a kitchen
in miniature; also a pantry, a cold stor-
age closet, a closet fllled with wines and
liquors and an ice cream locker. Be-
neath is an ice box for meats which will
hold 700 pounds.
According to the regulations, the
steward is personally responsible for all
dishes prepared. He must see to it that
they are properly cooked and neatly
garnished ore serving. No chipped
dish is to be used under any circumstan-
ces, nor any plese of table linen with a
hele in it. In short, everything must
be managed asin a first class hotel.
As a rule, the meals provided on dining
cars are better than can be got for the
same prices at stationary restaurants.
The charge for dinner is $1, and 75
cents for breakfast or supper. .
On the basis of expenditure above
given, it costs from $16,000 to $22,000 a
year to run a dining car merely for food
and wages, to which must be added
wear and tear on the property and many
incidentals besides. Thus it is not sur-
prising that the business is a losing one.
Arrangements made between the pal-
"ace car companies and the railways re-
| garding sleeping cars vary very much.
Sometimes the latter pay a8 much as
| two or three cents a mile for the use of
each sleeper, where, as is particularly
apt to be the case in the South, the pas-
senger, trafficis not sufficient to pay the
car companies. In such cases a railroad
is often obliged to provide the necessary
convenience at a loss to itself. The
item of washing is a very costly one in
the running of sleeping ears, as no piece
of linen is ever used twice without go-
ing to the laundry.
A sleeper, on leaving New York for
Chicago or St. Louis, receives a ‘‘stock’’
of 130 linen sheets, 120 pillow slips and
120 towels. This gives change for two
nights. Fifteen or twenty clean towels
are always kept on the washing is done
in New York, Boston, Buffalo, Chicago,
St. Louis and other cities, being given
out in great quantities at the low rate of
$1 per hundred pieces. An equipment
of linen lasts about one year, at the end
of which it must be renewed. It is pur-
chased by wholesale, $50,000 worth at a
time.
Get Ready for Arbor Day.
Of the line upon line and precept
upon precept method of education is the
annual proclamation calling upon the
citizens of Pennsylvania to spend a day
in tree planting. Governor Pattison,
in designating April 13 and 27 as the
days to be observed for this purpose this
year, calls attention to the fact that the
oft-repeated official calls to this duty
have met with tardy and limited res-
ponse, while the destruction of the for-
ests continues with increased rather than
diminished vigor. To put the situation
in a sentence, thousands are destroying
trees while only a few scores are plant-
ing them.
It does not require the vigorous lan-
guage used by the governor to convince
thoughtful persons that if this order be
not quickly reversed the woodlands of
the state will soon remain only a memo-
ry. Ifall owners of forest land were
following the example of the board of
city trusts in replenishing the denuded
acres of the Girard estate of Schuylkill
county, the destruction of the primitive
forests everywhere in progress would
furnish little cause for solicitude. But
with the many cutting trees ruthlessly
and only the few planting, the forest
ares, already too small, is rapidly disap-
pearing, leaving a train of dangers to
climate and atmosphere, health and
comfort, entertainment and occupation
that cannot much longer remain unfelt.
In view of this condition the Arbor
Day proclamation should be more gen-
erally heeded than heretofore. Nearly
three weeks remain for preparation to
observe the day named; the season is
more than usually propitious both for
the selection and planting of trees, and
every man, woman and child who can,
should do more than read the governor’s
proclamation—they should observe the
day. Ifhe who makes two blades of
grass grow where but one grew before is
a public benefactor, much more is he
who makes one or several trees grow
where none grew before.
Art in Oriental Rugs.
‘When a person who does not under-
stand the subject looks at an Oriental
rug, be cannot appreciate the beauty or
value of it any more than anyone not
versed in art can admire the work of the
impressioned school,” said a rug dealer
esterday. “I have often heard the
atter complain of the canvas of an im-
pressionists being ‘too blury and indis-
tinct,’ and it is just this same degree of
uncultivation in rugs that makes many
a customer remark: ‘Why, those old
dirty ragged things! Do you think I
would have ’em in my house? Never.’
To be able to get enjoyment from rugs
requires education in this line, just as it
does in painting. It is a degree of cul-
tivation that can be acquired only by
seeing the work of the peoplein the East
and by knowing how they accomplish it.
Rug making in this country would not be
very profitable. A protective duty
never so high would not permit Ameri-
can manufacturers entering into
competition with the far East--that is,
if they attempted to produce the same
quality of article. Just to give you an
idea of the part that the great differ-
ence between the rates of wages paid
here and in Asia Minor would play in
the selling price of a rug, take this il-
lustration : Here is a small rug, that
is made here, in the same manner rugs
are made in the Orient. Of course we
paid reasonable American wages—not
as high, however, as the workman's
skill perhaps merited. Well, we made
the rug, which would be considered ex-
pensive at $10 if made in the East, yet
it cost us something over $185. If Or-
iental rugs were sold upon the Ameri-
can wage basis, they would be a luxury
to be afforded only by millionaires.
His Credentials.
It is said that 2 well-known Bishop of
the Episcopal Church in a Western
town was introduced to a man who said
that he was a ’Piscopal. The bishop
was evidently not much impressed by
the man’s manners, and said to him :
“How shall I know whether you are
an Episcopalian or not 7”
“Why,” said the other, ‘‘cause I do
the things that I ought not to have done
and leave undone the things that I
ought to have done and there is no
health in me.”
“You'll do,” said the bishop.
History or THE WORLD.—-This is
the title of a new book, just being pub-
Isibed in Philadelphia, notice of which
appears in another column. The sub-
ject is one of surpassing interest, and
such a book should be found in every
home. The public will be greatly in-
terested in this fine addition to our lit-
erary resources. We are informed that
the book is first class in every respect,
the illustrations, particularly, being
marvels of artistic beauty, while their
number is almost over whelming. The
agent securing territory for the book is
to be congratulated, for he has a profit-
able business ahead of him.
| ——Many sheep and cattle in” Aus-
tralia have died from extreme cold.
One station lost 16,000. Many hun-
dreds are lying dead along the roads.
———The crime of drunkenness in
Auckland shows a decrease of 100 as
compared with last year and the number
of criminal offences is also much lower.
For and About Women.
Mrs. Mary Hemmingway, who died
recently in Boston, left the interest on
her estate, worth $15,000,000, for a
period of 15 years to the furtherance of
scientific and other educational work in
Boston and its vicinity. She bequeath-
ed a valuable farm to the Hampton
(Va.) Institute.
There is nothing that is more popular
or more becoming to a graceful young
woman than the tailor-made frock coat.
These coats are long and plain and se-
vere, and the incomparable Johnstone
Bennett is said to have brought them
out. They have high, full sleeves and
bell skirts and they are double-breasted
and have neat silk lapels. They =al-
ways match the dress-skirts that go with
them, but they look best when the
skirts aresmade of a black, rough cloth.
Sleeves are immense—bigger than
ever, and although they do not stand
upward they spread outward to an in-
creditable extent. The top is never
less than a yard and a half wide, but
the width begins to decrease above the
elbow, and at the wrist the sleeve fits
the arm exactly. Satin, in a color bar-
monious with the dress, is much used
for these large gigot sleeves.
The hair-dresser plays a prominent
part these days in the appearance of a
woman, for an unbecoming ‘head-
dress,” that is, one unsuited to its wear-
er’s style, will make a pretty woman
look something like one of Macbeth’s
witches. Itis not necessary to make
an elaborate coiffure, but it is quite nec-
essary, indeed, that the contour of the
head and the style of the face be con-
sulted.
For instance, the round, dimpled face
demands a high coiffure, with only a
suggestion of bang over the forehead, a
little fluff of curls on the temple and a
moderately well-built-up bang between
the knot and the forehead on top of the
heaa.
The thin face needs softening, and a
much-crimpled head piece can be worn
with a full fluffy bang pretty well
around the face. If the neck 1s long
and thin, the back of the head should
be exceedingly well shaped ifa high
knot is worn.
Women have tried with varying suc-
cess some of the 1830 styles of head-
dress, the general effect of which is more
often sad than successful. No kind of
adaptation of the 1830 coiffure can be
made artistic. It was not pretty then,
it is hideous now.
There was never a time when so
many odd and fanciful little bibs and
yokes and fichus and scarfs of lace were
used for brightening up plain gowns
and transforming a low gown into a
high one at short notice. The prettiest
of the yokes are made of black chiffon
with chiffon ruffles and jet fringe for a
finish to the lower edge. The daintiest
scarfs are of Liberty tissue in the odd
art colors for which the English tissues
are noted. These are long and broad,
to be tied in big fluffy bows inside a
coat collar. Yokes of pale and dressy
colors, collars of velvet with a bit of
white lace, are effective and economical
garnitures for plain gowns to make
them smart and gay enough for evening
wear. New wrist frills for the leg-o’-
mutton sleeves are made of a square of
cloth about seven inches euch way,
with the corners rounded off and a hole
cut in the middle for the hand. It is
made double and stitched to the sleeve
without fulness: If the dress is of two
materials the inside of the frill is of the
contrasting color, the outside of the ma-
terial like the sleeve.
The new blouse waists do not end
with the belt, but flare out over the hips
in a variety of patterns, all of them,
however, having more or less method in
their arrangement. Dressmakers are at
last submitting to the inevitable, and
are giving up their opposition to ihe
silk waist which they have vainly tried
to suppress ; and several firms are now
wisely making them a speciality, giving
them a cut and elaboration that it is the
despair of amateurs to imitate. The
basque part of the new waist may be a
ruffle ; orit may be finished in box-
plaits or “ripped’’ like the seamless col-
lars and capes on the jackets. One very
preity model is make with a yoke, be-
low which are three broad box-plaits in
front and three behind, which are grad-
uated into the waist, the side pieces be-
ing fitted smooth. Below the waist are
eight box-plaits, broad at the bottom
and graduated at the waist, the extra
two being over the hips, while a pretty
effect is produced by glimpses of silk of
anotber color between the box-plaits.
The graduated plaits cause the waists to
look very small. Another charming
-design in black chiffon has three accor-
dion-pleated ruffles on the yoke, edged
with an extremely narrow white picot
edge of guipure, and two accordion-
pleated wings on each shoulder, also
finished with the tiny edge. The front
is gathered in, exceedingly full, and
brought to a point at the waist, where
it is finished with a draping of black
moire ribbon caught up with a bow at
the left side.
The distinctive feature of the 1894
hats and bonnats are steel buckles, black
roses and tabs of lace falling over the
hair in the back. In some, all three of
these decorations are to be seen, while
in others only one appears, but no hat
or bonnet is thoroughly up to date that
does not have at least one of the trio as
a portion of its make up.
‘ Linen and duck dresses are to be
popular again this year. They are
made in the coat and shirt style and
worn with vests and shirts.
A taking little gown is of light gray
and had an overskirt raised slightly on
one side and hanging in godets. There
was a band of fancy trimming around
the bottom. The bodice fastened invisi-
bly’ and oa each side of the front it was
slit up from the waist in points, show-
ing white cloth beneath. Bands of
trimming formed half revers, half bre-
telles, in front of the sleeves. Another
strip of the trimming was gathered into
a basque which did not meet in front,
standing out quite. full and flaring
around the waist. With this costume
there was a black lace hat, trimmed
with standing white bows at the back.