Bellefonte, Pa., Nov. 10, 1893.
SUMMER IS OVER.
“Summer is over ; the winds blowing chill.
‘Wake in my bosom an answering thrill.
“Music and fragrance aud b2auty were here.
' Warm with the breath of the perfected year.
Bright with the radiant midsummer glow.
When did they vanish and where did they go ?
* Sad moans the winds in the tops of the trees,’
Thistle-down floats on the autumnal breeze.
Thickets of golden-rodifiame on the hill.
Loud chirp the crickets, and piercingly shrill.
Summer is over--life’s-summer—for me.
Season of hopeftiiness; romance and glee.
Brilliant with phantoms of future delight.
Fair as the summer clouds, changefully bright.
Entereth autumn, the ‘harbinger sage,
Chilly precursor of wintery age.
When the last flower shall fade on the ‘hill
When the shrill 'chirp-of the cricket is still.
Then the cold snow in its whiteness will fall.
* Silently folding the-egrth in its pall.
Only a little! O spirit, be brave!
Why mustthoushudderatageand the grave?
Summer is over, but change is not death.
Nor ig life.ended when faileth the breath.
Beautiful seasons are yet to unfold ;
LLife is eternal, though forms may grow old.
Look, O my soul, from this autumual plain!
After the winter comes springtime again.
REP ROSES.
' Eni%lems of Love That Brought Peace.
. BY JEAN ROBERTSON LAMBIE.
1,
How cold! 8he felt shivers run
over her every ime someone opened |
the door. Wihy didn’t they put the
- glove counter sore place where there
wasn't a constant draft? She knew
she was catching cold. How her head
ached and how tired she was! Would
6 o'clock never come.
“Gloves did you say?’ Then she
had to look interested and try glove
after glove on a ‘hand white, well-kept
and covered with flashing jewels; a
hand not.so small as her own, but
what a contrast! Her’s was rough
and red ; not even a simple gold band
adorned it.
Gone at last, ileaving an invisible
trail of perfume tbehind her. Happy
. girl,
2 How her face'barned! Rather odd;
only a few moments ago she was near-
ly freezing. She'leaned her head wea-
rily against the showcase and tried to
calm her trembling frame.
“Miss Rose, attend to business,”
came sharply from the head of the de-
partment.
Stung to the,guick by the man’s
harsh tones Rose lifted her head, and
with eyes in which the tears were very
near the surface, and with quivering
lips, turned to her customer. Another
woman,:a society woman. Box after
box ot delicately hued gloves were
brought.down at dle haughty demand
of the dy, only ‘to be pushed aside
«with severe criticism. At last she was
gone—geune without making a single
purchase. Rose idly fingered the
daintyigloves as she put them back.
: Surely among those delicate grays,
creams and heliotropes something
ought to be found te-suit even the most
fastidious.
It was snowing outside, and one by
. one the ehop windewssrere lighting up.
Half-past#five! Ouly one brief half-
+ hour acd then—ne, mot home, but a
place to sleep and eat. A home brings
i ideas of. peace, love ant comfort. Rose
- had decidedly none .of these at the
. place she sought each might.
‘Rose looked at tive shcp opposite.
1 It was a flovist’s, and aanan was just
lighting the oft lamps placed among
the:flowers. Her eyes lingered loving
: ly on: the stately palms, delicate ferns,
graceful lilies and fragrant jasmines,
but when they fell on a great bunch of
'Jagqueminot woses she could scarcely
forbear reaching out her hands for
them; regardless of distanee and every-
- thing else, as a little chiid-sould have
done.
iJacqueminotwoses ! Rich red roses!
"How she lovedrithem! A ray of sun-
. shine on a gloomy day to 2 person hun-
gry for brightness could mot thave done
~mare good than chat bunch of roses
~did her. Her languor seemed to de-
. part. and elie felt thankful chat she was
. able to werk, thankful for her youth,
«thankful cdor—why, ever so amany
«things.
Day after day dt-was her delight to
«watch this shop. Standing in a store
was not so bed after ell if one had Jac-
~querrinot, roses to look at sometimes.
:She even liked to avatch the people
.who went ito the tforist’s. In the
imorning Iacy vousg men passed
‘through the swinging doore. Rose
knew what they went fer. Some went!
ito seleet flowers for a fair woman's
ibreast, ethers for a single red carnation
ifor a boutonniere.
Rose bought a.carnation for herself
mearly. every evening. To be sure che’
did not dare go into the florist’s for a
single carnation, bat she patronized a
little friend she had. A sweet current
of thought goes with a red.earnation ;
it is.80 fragrant, bright and cheerful.
But roses!
Often carriages stopped before the
florist’s. Riehiy-dressed women went
inside and in & moment or so came
out with great sheaves of flowers.
Sometimes in the evening shabbily
dressed men went in and came out
with a modest little parcel done up in
tissue paper. Perhaps they had gone
without dinner to buy a few flowers for
the one they had promised to love and
cherish, Rose loved these latter cus
tomers best of all and would marmur
fervently, “God bless them!” She
imagined how the gift was received at
home ; how the pale face brightened,
how the lips refused to utter the beau:
tiful thoughts that filled the heart.
What delicacy in the gift of a flower.
b Many people stopped before the flor.
ist’s just to look in the windows, Rose
| it.
noticed how often dark children of
Ttaly lingered before the windows.
She saw the dark eyes glow when they
rested on the roses. They also ad-
mired her red roses. They were think-
ing of sunny Italy, of blue skies, of
the sparkling Val d’Arno and fair Flor-
entine roses. How they longed for
Florence, warmth and roses. :
All at oncethe store grew very noisy.
It was 6 o'clock. At last she was free
and could, at least, go where she could
rest her aching head and find some de-
gree-of quietude. Soon she was hurry-
ing over the icy pavement just as fast
as she could go, swaying from side to
sidesin her eagerness to pass more leis-
urely pedestrians, and shrinking timid-
ly either close to the shop windows or
toward the curbstones, so that no one
would notice her.
Near the head of the avenue and
elose to the shabby boarding house ia
which she stopped was a church, The
church stood back from the street,
and, shut in by two high business
houses, one on either side, was tolera-
bly well protected from the keen win-
ter winds and the hurrying flakes
of snow.
A child stood on the church steps
with a tray of flowers attached to a
strap around his neck. The electric
light from the theatre opposite fell full
on his shabby little figure. He wore
no-overcoat, but had his ragged little
coat buttoned close about his throat.
His shoes were much too large for him
and were unmated. .
Do you suppose he had a pale, sad
little face with all this? Not a bit of
He had a bright, sunny counte-
nance. Ture, it was thin and none too
rosy, but it bore a bright, determined
look and he was whistling merrily a
gay street song. Both hands were
deep in his pockets and every few mo-
ments he made a hop, skip and jump
along the broad stone step. He want-
ed to keep warm and this was such a
brave way to do it.
“Hello! Miss Rose!” How his
face brightened !
“Good evening, Teddy. Why, you
haven't got any mittens on. Don’t
you like them ?”
Teddy looked very much confused
and hung his head gmlitily.
“Wal, yer see, Miss Rose, all de fel-
lers said I was putting on airs. I don’t
want to seem sort of stuck up like.”
“Yes ; but, Teddy, you must keep
your hands warm. Won't you wear
them Teddy ?”’ coaxingly. ;
Teddy slowly drew a pair of bright
red mittens from his pocket, emptied
them of a few pennies and drew them
en his hands.
“They make fust rate pocketbooks
when a fellar’s got any money to put
in them. Wal, I’ve got yer posy. One
is fur you and one fur de doctor,” lift-
ing a little piece of tissue paper and
disclosing proudly two red carnations.
*“Dhe purtiest fur you.”
“Thank you, dear. Here, Teddy.”
“That's nothin.” Teddy thrust
both hands deep in his pockets, a
bright flush rising up in his cheeks,
and hurriedly turned away.
Rose passed on with rather an un:
easy mind. “It does seem dreadful-to
take the flower from the child, but if I
pressed him to take the money it would
spoil the beauty of the gift and wound
the kind feeling with which he offered
it. Jt came from the bottom of his
heart, and I cannot but takeit. Dear
little boy.”
At last she was at the only home
she kad. She hurried up three flights
of stairs to the shabby little box of a
room she calied her home. She lit the
gas, which blazed up in a screaming
column. There was no tip on the
burner.
The room was supposed to be heated
by steam, but very little, if any,
warmth came through the small regis-
ter in the corcer. The room was low
ceiled. No curtains hung upon the
«windows. A dark sort of carpet cov-
ered the floor, and, with the exception
of the bed, a washstand with a small
cracked mirror above it and a stiff
looking chair, the room contained
nothing else. Rose would have liked
to have filled it with brica-brac and
the thousand and one things so dear to
feminine hearts, but how could that be
done on $85 a week? Absurd! Pre.
posterous !
Thowing aside her wraps, she emp-
tied a little water into a glass tumbler
and placed the carnation on the man.
tel. Then she huddled down in a litle
heap on theregister and sat there for a
long time.
Ounce the Jandlady tapped on the
door and asked her if she did not want
ber supper. “Thank you, none. I
am not well to-night,” came back the
reply. :
She felt warm and burning at times ;
then she felt.cold. Her head was diz
zy and therewas a confused murmur:
ing in her ears. At last she arose and
staggered tc the mantel, took her car-
pation and, pressing it to-her face, rest-
.ed her head on the anantel.
Ah! the perfume of that carnation.
All the beaatitul, noble and good
things seemed denied her. [It brought
before her mind ne bright thoughts of
the past. No lovely home memories
presented themselves in turn before
her mind to recall the loved ones who
had gone and to awaken the hope of
reunion in the futare, No one had
ever loved Rose in a protecting, caress-
ing way. The girls all liked her,
everyone respected her, but sometimes
she thought if it was not for Teddy
she would not try to keep up any lon:
ger.
To-night she felt more Jonely and
forsaken than she had ever felt before.
Was there anything beaatitul intended
for her? Would she ever have any-
one to love her? “No, no,” she
sobbed, “I will have to live on in a
shabby little room like this and go on
the same old tread day after day until
—no headstone will be necessary for
me. They don’t have them in the pot-
ter's field. Maybe that potter's field is
near me now. I feel 8o queerly to-
night. Can it be? Ob, for a bright
warm fire, friends who loved me and”
£8)
It seemed to make her think of some-
thing she wanted and could not have.’
—as the perfume of the carnation came
to her again—*‘oh, for some red roses ?"
“Yes, she likes red roses better'n
anything else—them big Jack ones.”
“Pretty expensive taste for a shop
girl,” the young man muttered to him-
self.
“What's that?’ and Teddy looked
sharply up into his face. “That's jes’
what she says herself. She says she
really oughtn’ter like flowers at all,
but she can’t help it, doctor,” half
apologetically.
“I guess not Teddy. I see you have
my carnation. Keep the change, my
boy.” : .
“No siree ; I'm in business,” count-
ing out some pennies into the young
man’s hand. ‘She's been sick mos’ a
week now. Say, doctor, kin yer keep
a secret 2’ .
“Yes, Teddy, I think I can,” slight.
ly smiling. i
Teddy took a step nearer his idol
and said, in a triumpbant little whis-
per, “I’m goin’ ter buy her two Jacks
ter-morrer {”’
“You must
Teddy.
“No, but I'll get there.”
‘How ?”" curiously.
“Wal, yer see, yer know some doc-
tors say it's bes’ jes’ to eat two meals a
have struck it rich,
day. Why, yer a doctor, you oughter
know.” ” :
“I see.” A light broke over the
young man's mind. “And so you
have been going without your dinner ?”
The doctor's hand went deep into his
pocket and closed upon something.
“Fur me own good, doctor.”
Teddy believed it would have been
unmanly for him to acknowledge sac-
rifice of his own few comforts to a fel-
low man, and he thought it rather
weak and womanish to own up to ten-
der feelings for anyone, All boys have
rather queer ways of expressing their
feelings. It is one of the most delight.
ful studies of human nature just to get
into their ways.
“Fur me own good, doctor?’ anx-
ously.
“Yes, my boy.”
The doctor turned away. Some-
thing slipped out of his fingers down
into his pocket again.
“Offer him money for doing a thing
like that!” he exclaimed, under his
breath. ‘Who would have expected
such fine feeling, such rare delicacy,
and bravery under that shabby little
coat!”
Then the doctor went off in a reverie.
“I'll do it,” he muttered vehemently.
“I don't care if mademoiselle does miss
her orchids and bon-bons to-night.
What a fool I've been! Smiles and
favor are to be bought, are they ? I'll
be hanged if I buy any more!”
Early the next morning someone
lifted Teddy’s tray from his shoulders
and placed a big box in his hands.
“Here, Teddy, these are Jacques,
Take them to Miss Rose, and don’t for
the life of you tell her where you got
them.”
“All of them there Jacks!”
dy’s eyes were wide with astonishment.
“Yes, I wish there were more. I
suppose these will do for the present,
however. If we succeed, Teddy, we'll
try it again, eh ?”’
“Um’'m—You keep a holt of my
tray, doctor.”
“That's all right. Hurry up.”
Teddy hurried down the side street
and soon arrived at the dingy boarding
house.
“Miss Rose in. missus?”
“Yes, jes’ go upstairs. That's for
her, is it?” eyeing the box curiously.
“Her room’s at the head of the third
flight of steps.’
Teddy hurried up the three flights
and gave a timid knock at the door at
the top. No answer. Teddy quietly
turned the knob and looked in.
Could that be Mies Rose? How
pale she looked! Teddy glanced lov-
ingly at the pale face on the pillow.
She was sleeping and Teddy moved
very gently, so as not to disturb her.
“I don’t know whether to wake her
or not.) Teddy was pazzled.
At last a brilliant idea struck him.
Hastily opening the box he drew out
fold after fold of tissue paper. He drew
back in pleased astonishment.
“They're jes’, jes’ "--Teddy could
not think of a fit adjective to describe
them and finally said, “Jes’ out of
sight,” fully conscious that this was by
no means extravagant enough to de-
scribe them. But then he could think
of nothing more appropriate.
Lifting carefully the big red beauties
from the box he strewed them all over
the bed, all about the pillow ; even
touching the girl's head, close about
her hands, where she could pick
them up.
When he had completed his task he
stood back lest in admiration of it.
“Won't she be pleased, though ? I
guess she will cry, or something. 1'd
better go now. [ allez hate to see
girlscry. I guess she wod't cry to-
night. I'll come then, an’ ax her how
she likes them. Maybe she'll think
angels been buzzin’ roun’.”
This idea seemed to tickle him im-
mensely and he departed, chuekhng to
bimselt, “Mean’ de doctor's queer kind
of angels.”
* * * * * *
A drop of moisture from the roses
mast have fallen on her cheek, or may-
be she did dream of angel's wings.
Anyhow, Rose opened her eyes and—
Waa this heaven ? Jacqueminot roges
all about her ! She must be dead and
some of the girls have brought them.
No; as she moved her hard a thorn
pricked her. She was sensible, and
then this was her room.
“I don’t care who brought them,”
she sobbed. “How wicked I was that
night. I have so many things to be
thankful for I can’t count them. I'ts
unwomanly to give way as I do. Some-
one must love me or they would not
gead me Jacqueminot roses, Why,
roses mean’
Rose could sav no more. How beau: !
ful they were! Great velvety beauties ; '
the rich leaves rolling back in dark
waves and disclosing the warmer shade
within ; fresh. green leaves and the
long, cool stems supporting them.
Ted- |
| posits of the people
Rose had her Jacqueminot roses at
lastand she buried her face among
them in contentment.
————
The Cause of Pul lic Financial Trouble.
A Letter From Mr. W. G. Comerford on the
Financial Evils that Effect the Couniry and
Suggesting a Remedy Therefore.
(The following correspondence fully ex”
plains itself, the reply of Mr. Comerford is
given by the WarcHuAN, neither to endorse or
condone the sentiment and suggestions, but
for the reason that Mr. C. is personally known
to a large number of its readers, who, we feel
will be interested in reading his views on the
situation.—Ep. Warcuyan.)
Carrolltown, Pa. Oct, 25th 1893
Mr. W. G. Comerford, Loretto, Pa.
Sir: The undersigned, as well as.
your many friends, throughout the State,
would he pleased to have you express your
views on the cause and remedy for the pres-
ent business unrest and financial trouble ; the
policy of the State in regard to taxation and
sound banking system.
What you have to say would be read with
interest by your fellow citizens.
Very Respectfolly.
G. H. SLOAN, M. D.
MATHEW MILLER.
J. V.MANCHER.
W. F. SLOAN.
JOS. FARABAUGH
P. J. DIETRICK.
Loretto, Pa., Messrs G. H. Sioan,
M. D.. Mathew Miller, J. V. Mancher
and others.— Gentlemen: Replying to
your esteemed favor, of recent date,
requesting me to write my views as to
the cause and remedy for the present
business unrest and financial troubles
ete.
I bave only to repeat what I have
often given utterance to in Cambria
County and many portions of this State.
That the Republican party, represent-
ing an aggressive plutocracy and domi-
nated by the benificaries of class legisla-
tion after thirty years of imperial
power, have left labor hapless, the vast
hord of people powerless in the paral-
ysis attending every department of in-
dustry, and a prey to the vagary of
every upstartpharisee— So overwhelm-
ing and crushing has been the sway,
and masterdom of this vamp ire class, in
‘protecting’ themselves, that the peo-
ple of my native State, as well as this
nation, find themselves environed in
another panic, and at the mercy of a
rude storm in financial concerns. This
power formulated and secured the ecir-
culating medium of pet banks and dubb-
ed them national. The sequence was to
effect a more generous inflow of deposits
of the cash, currency and wealth of the
people of labor, to banking concerns
with a high sounding name, but where
the sacred savings of the people could
be readily and finally manipulated
squandered and stolen. There is no
security for the earned increment of
labor. In reality making the boasted
national bank a fake bank, a veritable
den. Into the clutches of its tiger paws
the unwary depositor could be lured to
bring in and part with his wealth : by
reason of the security given the circula-
ting medium of the plutocratic bend-
holder.
This robber banking system, so called,
will continue to be the cause of periodic
panics, hard pinching and contracting
times, so long as a foolish, patient, toil-
ing and indifferent people submit to th is
‘blessed’ species of ‘‘protection”. I do
not wishto be understood that the nation
al orprivate banks do not contain honest
and public spirited men. Many of them
are examples of probity in their com-
munities.
I amnot dealing with these except-
ions, but with the vicious system.
A system that very properly requires
two good and sufficient endorsers on the
note of a borrower, as wzll as his signi-
ture before a loan is forthcoming.
But when the laborer comes along and
deposits his earnings, that is his cash, or
currency, or his money on the counter
of this same banking system, it is raked
in, in the most matter of fact way, and
the security given is, only and simply
the nod and smile of the cashier, and
jotting down a few figures in a little
leather-backed bank book.
This state of aftairs forces many peo-
ple of wealth to become curbstone brok-
ers, seeking investments for their money
to escape the competative exactions of
paying four or five per centum for de-
posits, as they would be compelled, if
they engaged in competion with the
gentry who go into the banking busi-
ness on wind mainly, and a show of
substance by including a pen, a bottle
of ink a few blotting pads and an old
safe as their assets.
At least this summary is about all the
available wealth the unfortunate credit-
or depositor finds; when the tigeris done
toying with the funds deposited, by
the laborer, but yesterday.
This state of affairs forces the money
of the people ; the hoard of labor into
the ‘stocking’, or out of sight and’
reach in the ‘cellar’, ‘‘garret’’ or
between ‘mattresses’. Anywhere to
escape the dangers of a rotten banking
system ; that gives no security for de-
When times are ;
the best not one half the money of the
people see the light of banks,
Consequently, no matter what the:
kind and volumne of money coined and
issued, it will scon be swallowed up and
den away. So little of the money of the
people is on deposit in our banks, that
a scarcity of currency, or money, is soon
apparent, when some trifling circum-
stance causes a few to withdraw their
—
savings, many others follow and then a
panic is imminent. Business is thus
unsettled for a greater or less length of
time, until the banks can realize the
currency, the money, on their securities
when we again begin the upward ang:
onward march of trade and until anoth-
er disturbance of deposits begets anoth-
er panic. Thus we live a life of panic
following panic.
The Farming World, of Augusta
Maine, says : “The present scarcity of
money is without doubt largely due to
fear. A great many people are board-
ing small sums of inoney through fear
of failure of banks.
We make no claim to any special
financial knowledge or ability, but
fully believe that if the great mass of
the people would put the dollar they
have at work ; the present scarcity of
currency would be relieved in thirty
days, and money would be easy, what-
ever Congress might do on the silver
question.”
What does all this ‘‘fear’”, doubt,
want of confidence, which possesses and
agitates the mind and governs the ac-
tions of the people argue.
Reform ? Let the people of all partieg
unite on a legislature pledged to the
task of formulating a law to eliminate
the burglar and thief from our banking
system.
Ldo not speak for the revival of
state banks, itis the province of the
United States to coin money. That is
one of the delegated powers that Penn-
sylvania surrendered.
I am convinced that the wisdom and
integrity of the whole people in Con-
gress assembled will, in this end, vouch-
safe us a stable, honest and efficient cur-
rency. However that may be the
sovereignty of this State should make a
good banking system. One that will
require all persons desirous of engaging
in this banking business, to secure a
charter : say, from the courts of the
county in which the privilege is asked
for, under the wisest conditions. That
the charter is to be granted for the pur.
pose of receiving and handling a definite
amount of deposits.
That double the amount, called for in
the charter, in United States bonds, the
bonds ot the State, or real estate; be
pledged to the State as security for the
deposits.
That the State guarantee the absolute
safety of deposits. That the banks pay
the State a small per centage on the
amount of their charter ; say one half,
or one per centum. = That the State
creates a currency fund which will be
held sacred to meet the demands of the
people, (the banks locally) when any
stringency in the money market may
occur, or scarcity of currency prevail:
Let the State create bank inspectors to
visit all banks frequently ; who will
examine and report the amount of de-
posits. Inspection that will be equal to
the task of informing the people posi-
tively the actual amount on deposit, and
not like much of the present national
bank examination. A great big roar-
ing farce. So agreeable to the bankers
have been some examiners that suffi-
cient time is given one bank to loan 1ts,
cash reserve to a troubled concern, thal
may be just a little short, you know.
The State to make it a penal offence
for bank president or cashier or both, to
be discovered by the examiner, to have
received one deposit more than the
charter calls for. Should the bank find
‘their charter inadequate, then apply to
the court and secure a charter sufficient
to meet their wants.
The punishment for transcending the
limit of a bank charter to be twenty
five years penal service for both bank
president and cashier, witholding from
the governor, pardoning board, or
President the power to pardon this
offense,
Such a law operative in this sover-
eignty of Pennsylvania, and other states
of the Union, would cause men of sound
financial standing, of solid wealth, to
engage in the banking business.
Irresponsible persons and the present
banker leech would then be relegated
far to the rear and their occupation
gone. The people would breath
easier ; as their precious earnings, their
cash, currency or wealth, (called by
what name you will) cruciblized and
resolved into, what it is at this stage in
the progress of money, the sacred, po-
tent commercial factor called deposits,
secured by the State to its owner.
Ry the operation ot such a law panics
would never occur, presuming all the
States would enact such banking re gu-
lations. With absolute security to the
depositor, which alone is the province of
the State te give, the “run” on a bank
would be impossible.
Secured by the State the vast wealth
of the people, the whole output of the
mint, the immense amount of cash, or
currency, be it gold, silver or paper,
| which in all times, present and past, has
been hid in the ‘stocking’ or buried out
of sight and . reach. Certainly not
available for the purpose for which it
| absorbed by the people and again hid- . was created, but would be, under the
conilitions I propose, a smiling, known
and inviting quantity as deposits in our
honest banking era.
The vast herd of people, the phalanx
Continued on Page Siz
i)
For and About Women.
Miss Frances E. Willard is resting at
Somerset House, England.
Never teach false modesty. How ex-
quisitely absurd to teach a girl that
beauty is of no value, dress of no use!
Beauty is of value. Her whole pros-
pects and happiness in life may often
depend upon a new gown or a becom-
| ing bonnet. = If she has five grains of
common sense, she will find this out.
The great thing is to teach ber their
proper value.
Many of the handsomest traveling
costumes for the winter are made of
rough surfaced woolens combined with
velvet, and trimmed with fur in narrow
bands and edgings. The cape-collars,
sleeve capes and revers are so large that
they have the effect of a short wrap; and
£0 dispense with any outside garment,
as these heavy additions are very pro-
tective. The circular skirt is cut short
enough to escape the ground all around
without being lifted.
Mink collarettes are to be worn ag
much as usual this winter.
That clever English novelist, Mrs.
Alexander, has been lame for two years
from a curious cause. She suffered ser-
ious hurt to the knee, owing to her
cramped position in the dress circle of a
London thester one evening, and she
is now unable to walk without a stick.
In street juckets there is great variety
in trimmings and collars, but the coat is
usually tight-fitting and often loose-
frooted, witn tight back with flaring
skirts, not slit open in the back, but
gored or laid in pleats, and is usually ot
three-quarters in length, about from 4Q
to 52 inches long.
+ The sleeves are lower ¢n the shoulder,
but are broad and drooping and tight at
the wrist, frequently finished with a
gauntlet or ‘Musketeer’ cuff,
A few tan coats are seen with brown
satin sleeves. Another tan kersey is
made with yoke and cuffs of jet passe-
menterie and three velvet cape-collars
edged with jet falling over the jet yoke.
The style of the coat is given by the
kind of collar and the flare of the skirts.
Some of the less trimmed cloth coats ara
the most stylish.
One of the most approved garnitures
for simple woolen costumes is mohair
braid, Skirts are scored with it, row
upon row, and all the outlites of the
bodice, jacket, and that latest revi-
val, the double skirt. It is generally
of the ordinary twilled variety or cotele
. e,, woven in ribbed effects. A
new variety of twilled braid is interwo-
ven with faint or rich dark-colored woll
or silk threads, which in crossing each
other form a diamond check.
To give one single reason for the pre-
mature falling out of the hair would be
impossible, as there are innumerable
causes of decay in its growth, among
which may be mentioned excessive
brain work a lite of excitement! dissipa-
tion and irregularity, great worry, grief
and disease. :
Heavy headwear is certain to keep
the scalp diseased, and ths head cannot
be thoroughly healthy unless it has pro-
per ventilation. Women makes a great
mistake in braiding their hair tightly or
in coiling it in hard, stiff knots, that
draws every hair from its very roots. coif-
fure can look just as neat and well ar-
ranged when not drawn uncomfortably
tight as when there is too great a ten-
sion upon it.
The daily brushing is uf the greatest
benefit to the hair, and the brush should
be used vigorously both night and
morning, and in such cases the comb is
hardly needed. If, however, a comb is
used it should be one with large teeth,
as fine ones pull out the bairand irritate
the scalp. Metallic brushes, if not too
harsh, are very invigorating, but gener-
ally the ordinary brush is quite enough
to keep the hair in good condition, pro-
vided 1t is used without stint.
Though many advise the washing of
the hair very frequently, authorities on
the subject of scalp diseases say that
too much washing has a tendency to
make the hair fall out. Once or twice
a month 1s quite enough for these ablu-
tions.
Both the umbrella-skirted coats and
the princess models in plain style ex-
tend down to about the middle of the
skirt of the wearer. They are made =s
a rule with wide lapels and flaring col-
lars, and in both double-breasted and
open vested fronts. Some of the coats
have folds set on below the waist line
in the back, joining the centre pieces in
a seam that is covered with trimming.
Others have a full shirred width of the
coat fabric ; others again are slit in the
style of a gentleman’s box coat.
Buckles are very much in favor this
season, We see them oftenest on hats.
A pretty gray hat turned up in front has
a long curving steel buckle placed hori-
zontally with tabs run through it.
Few dresses are seen without metallic
adornments of some kind. It appears
as passementerie, jet fringe, buckies, or
pendants and is highly ornamental.
Buttons are another trimming which
seem to ebb and flow in popularity.
Every few years we have a button craze,
and we are beginning to show symp.
toms of it this season. Then, forsooth,
who'd be an oyster ? For even the fish
of the sea are robbed of the houses they
livein to adorn a woman's gown. And
yet she clamors for her rights.
At last the skirt has assumed a reason-
able length. We no longer solve tlhe
question of New York streets by sweep-
ing them with our gowns. They escape
the ground even in the back, and young
women sometimes have them still short
er. For walking and for traveling this
is a great relief, They have also de-
creased in fullness, the diameter not
now exceeding two-thirds of the length.
Of these there are two types: The long
lived bell skirt and the gored skirt,
which has more fullness at the lower
edge and is slightly fluted.