Demonic Acne Bellefonte, Pa., Sep. 15, 1893 = MAN'S REQUIREMENTS—WOMANS WANTS. (Probably no poem except “The Beautiful Snow” has been accredited to more sources than this. Mrs. Browning, Mary T. Lathrop, Adelaide Proctor and Ella Wheeler Wilcox are all spoken of as its author: Do you know you have asked for the costliest in Ever ae by the hand above? A woman's heart and a woman's life— And woman's wondrous love ? Do you know you have asked for this priceless thin Asa child might ask for a toy; : Demanding what others have died to win, With the reckless dash of a boy? You have written my lesson of duty out— Man-like have you questioned me— Now stand at the bar of my woman’s soul— Until I shall question thee. You require your mutton shall always be hot Your socks and your shirts be whole ; 1 require your heart to be true as God's stars, And as pure as His heaven your soul. You require a cook for your mutton and beef; I require a far greater thing; : A seamstress you're wanting for socks and for shirts; I look for a man and a king. A king for the beautiful world called home, And a man that the maker, Goa, Shall look upon as He did on the first, And say, “It is very good.” 1am fair and young, but the roses will fade From my soft young;cheeks one day— Wili you love them ’mid the falling leaves As you did 'mong the bloom of May ? Is your heart an ocean so strong and deep I may launch my all on its tide ? A loving woman finds heaven or hell On the day she is made a bride. 1 require all things that are grand and true, All this that a man should be; If you gi iismH, I would stake my life '0 be all you demand of me. If you cannot be this—a laundress and cook ou can hire, and a little to pay: ° But a woman's heart and a woman's life Are never won in that way. ————————— THE NEW|YORK “HERALD” AND ITS NEW HOME. ee sn BY JAMES CREELMAN. Nothing in the career of James Gor- don Bennett so accurately expresses his leadership of uncommercial jour-| nalism as the beautiful Italian palace at the junction of Broadway and Sixth Avenue, which was occupied by the New York Herald on August 20th. This is his reply to the newspaper pro- prietors who have erected giant office buildings, in which the editorial forces occupy garrets and the pressman are crowded into dark cellars. Architect urally, the new home of the Herald is a rebuke to the utilitarianism of the American metropolis, an appeal for something better than sky-scraping ug- liness. If there is one thing more than an- other on which the proprietcr of the Herald is determined, it is that his pa- per shall never get into a rut, and for several years he has looked upon downtownism as the greatest of all journalistic ruts. Printing-house Square is too far away from the centre of life. The Herald must follow the people. It is an original and daring step, for the organization and business of a great newspaper are so nicely ad- justed to its neighborhood that when Mr. Bennett first announced his inten- tion of moving the Herald more than three miles away from its present site, nobody believed him to be in earnest. The Herald now declares itself to be independent of neighborhoods and fear- less of the result. And the influence which a vast newspaper establishment exerts upon its immediate surroundings may be judged by the fact that as soon as the new Herald site was made pub- lic, the price of real estate in that part of New York advanced thirty per cent. The new Herald building covers a trapezoidal plot of ground formerly oc- cupied by the army of the Seventy-first Regiment. Its extreme dimensions are two hundred feet long and a hundred and forty feet wide. The structure consists of two stories and an attic. It is a little more than fifty feet high. This splendid example of pure Ital- ian Renaissance has been go skillfully adapted by the architects that it meets all the practical requirements of a newspaper office without losing a sin- gle line of beauty. Externally, it is an exquisite palace; internally, it is an almost perfect workshop. Art and science are blended and exhausted in this wonderful combination. The Her- ald is now without a rival in the con- venience and close relationship of the varied departments necessary to pro- duce a metropolitan newspaper, and in the completeness of its apparatus for interior communication and variety of mechanical resources. There is a note of refinement and ele- gance in the architecture that breathes through the whole design. 1t, is, per- haps, too conservative, but that isa fault rarely discovered in American art and may be welcomed. The low fa- cades, with their delicate, pure orna- mentation, horizontal accents and sheltering arcades, enriched by dainty column and arch, the unbroken roof of red tiles and the simple doorways, de- void of garish symbolism, all speak eloquently of the spirit that prompted this innovation. But the advantage which the building has in its isolated position is somewhat marred by the presence of the grimy elevated railway which has a tendency to dwarf ite pro- rtions. The banal and ridiculous odge statue, which stands about six- ty feet in front of the main entrance, is another inharmonious element. On the Broadway and Sixth Avenue sides are arcades extending along three quarters of the building's length, be- kind rows of polished columns that support graceful arches whose function is purely ornamental, as the load of the outer line is borne by iron floor girders resting upon the inner main wall. These arcades are separated from the interior of the structure by a series of arched plate-glass windows, through which hundreds of spectators can watch the interesting operations in the immense press-roonr and the ste- reotyping department. The tascina- ting rush and whir of men and machin- ery late at night, when the place is ablaze with electric light, and the en- tire mechanical force is straining to get the paper printed in time for the early trains will be one of the notable sights of New York, while around the edge of the roof a row of twenty gilded owls will wink electric eyes at regular intervals by a mechanical device con- nected with the clock set in a rose-win- dow, the twin window being occupied by a wind-dial. Above the roof cor- nice over the main entrance, and in a line with the sentinel owls, will be two great bronze statues standing with up- lifted hammers on either side of a pon- derous bell. The mechanism of the clock will automatically cause the gi- ants to strike the hours with resound- ing blows upon the bell, after the fash- ion of the famous clock machinery of St. Mark’s Square. This bronze group is the work of distinguished French sculptors, but it will not be ready for its place for months. The presence of the owls is explained by the fact that the owl is a jolly fetich of Mr. Ben- nett’s and is to be seen in every part of his private establishment — stuffed owls, bronze owls, printed owls, iron owls—on his yachts, his carriages, his note-paper, his coaches in various parts of France, and in his many residences. The bird that is awake and alert when all else is asleep is not a bad emblem for the Herald. The exterior of the building is prin- cipally of pale terra cotta, and the flat spaces are filled in with pirolith, which closely resembles marble, but is to be preferred because of its adaptability to withstand heat and cold. The general effect is that produced by the Renais- sance stucco-work of medieval Italy. The color scheme is, in this respect, absolutely perfect, no tone being too pronounced. Three arches constituted the main entrance, but as one of the supporting shafts stood in the way of the actual door of the counting-room, the obstruct- ing pillar had to be removed, and two of the arches blended into a single flat arch, The counting-room is superb. Twelve splendid columns of - Pavonez- za marble support the ceiling, with its delicate traceries of white and geld, from which depends a fine chandelier. The moulded cases of the columns are of white’ Vermont marble. The floor is of mosaic, and the wainscoting of the spacious room is of Pavonezza marble. In order to preserve the unity of tone, all the furniture and fittings of the counting-room are worked out in white mahogany. : From this resplendent hall which is occupied by the business ‘department, with a corner allotted to the Commer- cial Cable Company, a flight of stairs bordered wich white statuary marble leads to the second story. Here is the main hall. Around ic are grouped Mr. Beanett’s office, his private room and bath-room, the reception-room for vis- itors ; the office of Mr. Howland, gen- eral manager ; the auditor's room and editorial council-room a circular apart: ment decorated in white and gold. The appointments of the executive headquarters are of the costliest but simplest character. Each of these roome opens into the other, and all are connected by doors with the main hall. Two corridors penetrate the second floor from the main hall to the Thirty- sixth street side or rear of the build: ing. Along these corridors are ar- ranged the spacious and convenient rooms of the editors, reporters, and out of town correspondents whose journals enjoy the privileges of the Herald es tablishment. The editorial and city departments of the Evening. Telegram are also on this floor. A ccntral court, is arranged so that every room is full of light. The corridor on the Broad way side ends in a vast room intended for the army of reporters, while the corridor on the Sixth Avenue side leads to the well-equipped library. Between is the office of the night editor, who has charge of the Herald at the moment it goes to. press, and the telegraph room, into which messages will come direct on special wires from all parts of the country. : : Here is the index department—a unique feature, for a copy of which many thousands of dollars were re fused—containing two and a halt mil- lions of entries describing news in the Herald, with date, page, and column indicated. It took two expert men working night and day for about thirty years to build up the index system, which covers virtually everything printed in the Herald since its founda: tion. There are more than one thous- and entries relating to General Grant alone ; and the references to Mr. Cleye- land outnumber all others. The in- dex is alphabetical, geographical and topical. There are now three index editors. In connection with this de- partment are ‘the bound newspaper files, more than a thousand volumes ranged in locked cases. Thereis a skeleton of the index ‘in the editorial rooms of the Paris edition of the Her ald. In addition to the news index there is an index of ten thousand illus- trations, and pigeon-holes containing thousands of obituaries, ready for use when the subjects die. The. library numbered eleven thousand booke, but the least useful volumes have been weeded out within the last few weeks. There are three hundred iron frames for the compositors in the enormous room on the third floor under the sharply slanting roof, and this is lit en- tirely by the central court. ‘Five Mer- genthaler linotype machines, driven by electric motors, are on the Broadway side. But in addition to the compos: ing-room—a remarkable eight in its way—there are twelve other apart ments on this floor, among them the art department, electric light, photo- graph-room, restaurant, kitchen, and matrix-room. But the glory of the new Herald | building ie in its press-room and pow- er plant, which stand in full view of the public. This wonderful system of machinery is interchangeably operated ' by steam or electricity. Two huge black marble switch boards, glittering with brass levers, control the electric force. When steam-power is undesira- ble, the huge dvnamos are brought in- to play, and when everything else fails, a turn of the wrist connects the opera- ting mechanism with the electric lighting mains in the street. In this way there can be no failure in the press-work or lighting apparatus. No matter what breakdown occurs, the Herald will be printed on time. There are ten electric motors. The capacity of this department is illustrated by the fact that there are more than eighteen hundred sixteen-candle-power lights in the establishment, not to speak of the various electric elevators and ventilat- ing fans. : Of the eight massive presses two are intended to print in four colors, after ‘the manner of the Paris Figaro Illustre. Each press prints two colors simulta: neously. The Herald's immense press, which turns out more than sixty thous- and copies an hour, will be on the Thirty-sixth Street side.- 1t is the most improved and productive printing machine in the world. The press room has an aggregate capacity of a little above two hundred and eighty thousand sheets an hour. Ink is pumped from a tank in the vaults un. der the sidewalk to the fountains of the presses. The whole course of the white paper is in full view from the street, as it spins from the damp rolls in continuous webs, flashes between the whirling cylinders, turns, reverses, enters the marvelous folding appara- tus, and finally appears pasted, folded, counted, and ready for delivery. The machinery is so exquisitely adjusted on its rock foundation that there is scarce- ly a vibration to be noticed when the whole mechanical department is in full swing. No other press-room ap- proaches this one in the perfection of its equipment and the swift inter- changeability of its various parts. The lightness and airiness of the space, and the orderly, logical arrangement of the engines, motors, and presses, all com- bine to make this part of the Herald establishment a model for the world. The lower floor is so broken that while the press-room consists largely of the basement and ground story thrown in- to a single lofty hall, the delivery room and stereotyping deparments are on a level with the street, one on the Thirty-sixth Street side and the other on the Sixth Avenue side. The stereotype metal is melted in sight of the publicin two huge pots, over which hangs a metal hood to carry off the hot air, by means of an electric fan, in the exhaust duct. Five casting-boxes are arranged in a semicircle in front of the melting-pot, so that the whole process of casting the shining plates from which the paper actually takes its impressions can be seen in all its detail by outsiders. A remarkable part of the new Her ald system is the apparatus for com- munication within the building. Sev- en lines of pneumatic tubes carry ad- vertisements, news, and editorial copy and proofs to and from all parts of the establishment. Conversation can be carried on between persons on difter- ent floors and in different rooms on the same floor through speaking tubes and by means of a really notable independ: ent telephone system of seventeen sta- tions, any, one of which can connect with any other without the aid of an operator. There are twenty-seven lines of 'speaking-tubes 80 conveniently placed that the head of any depart- ment can communicate directly with any other department. There is a large coop filled with fine carrier pigeons over the well-hole in the central court. It1s proposed to re- serve these werial messengers for ex- traordinary occasions. Notwithstanding the net-work of electric wires that connects the Herald with the rest of the civilized world, it is likely that some great news an- nouncement may be brought to the of- fice under the wing of a pigeon. The cost of this peerless newspaper building is more than halt a million dollars, and it is the result of recent study in the principal newspaper es- tablishments of Europe and America. The originality and courage required to carry out the new undertaking can scarcely be exaggerated. But the pro- prietor ot the Herald feels certain that the office ought not to be at one end of New York, but right in the heart of the theatre, hotel, and shopping dis- trict, close to the centre of population. In London, Paris, and other great cit- ies the newspaper offices are grouped within easy distance of the financial centres. But the Herald is carrying out its principle of selt-reliance and ac- companying the northward movement of the population. Its splendid mail- ing ‘department, that bas excited the admiration and won the applause of so many postmasters, will be put to a su- preme test now, for some of the rail- way depots are far away. So the old days and the old home of the Herald have passed away. It isa mighty organization, with more than two thousand five-hundred correspond- entg, and a system of bureaus that car- ries it into the uttermost ends of the earth. The elder Bennett started the paper with a nominal capital of five hundred dollars in 1835, and he lived to be a maker of Presidents. The present proprietor of the Herald, who is also its real editor in every vital de- tail, wonld not sell the paper for any price, although it was recently valued at twenty million dollars. In 1869 a group of capitalists offered two mil lions and a half for the Herald to the elder Bennett, but he laughed at the proposal. He declared that he would Leither know what to do with the mon- ey nor with himself if he sold the pa- per. Fonr years ago a New York syn- ! dicate cabled a message to Mr. Ben- nett asking him what was the lowest price of the Herald. His only reply was, “The price of the Herald is three cents daily, five cents on Sunday.” A prominent politician offered Mr. Ben- nett a check for fifty thousand dollars for the support of the Herald. Mr. Bennett looked him in the eye, and said, “This check can be traced to me.” “Then I'll get you the money,” said the politician, deceived by the calm bearing and impenetrable counte- nance of the journalist. “Good |” said Mr. Bennett. In a few minutes the politician returned with a big roll of greenbacks. Mr. Bennett could no longer suppress his rage. He tore the check up, threw it in his visitor's face, and drove him out of the room ina burst of fury. Names cannot be men- | tioned just now. | The Herald 1s rich beyond the! dreams of avarice. Its scorn of mon- | ey considerations is indicated by the payment of nearly four thousand dol- | lars in cable tolls for a despatch of less than two columns, and its proprie- : tor is planning to make it more and’ more the representative of uncommer- | cial and impersonal journalism, a pub- lic institution that cannot fall into the hands of factions even after his death, but go on as a sort of journalistic re- public. Of the Herald more than any other newspaper in the World Thack- eray’s words may be repeated: “There she is; she never sleeps. She has her ambassadors in every quarter of the world-~her couriers up- on every road. Her officers march along with armies, and her envoys walk into statesman’s cabinets. They are ubiquitous. ‘Yonder joutnal has an agent at this moment giving bribes at Madrid, and another inspecting the | price of potatoes at Convent Garden.” Thomas Jefferson said that he would rather live in a country with newspapers and without a govern- ment, than in a country with a gov- ernment but without newspapers. And if this be the expression of a sound judgment, the future of a great newspaper like the Herald, whose agents have opened a continent to civ- ilization, explored the arctic seas and talked with crowned monarch, and overtbrown governments and political policies, must be a matter of grave in- terest.— Harper's Weekly. Remarkable in Surgery Annals. Captain Robert Staple, a veteran of the late war, recently died at Allentown, Pennsylvania. While in the service Captain Staple was wounded and the wound was one of the most remarkable in the annals of army surgery. At the battle of Chancellorsville he was hit by a minnie ball, which fractured the eighth rib, passed through the diaph- ragm and dropped into the alimentary canal. Notwithstanding his terrible in- jury, Captain Staple walked to the field hospital, a distance of a mile and a half: At that time it was supposed the matter which protruded through the cavity, and which was as big as a fist, was a portion of the lung, making it really a hernia of the lung. Ata post-mortem examination it was discovered that this was not the case, but the supposed ex- posure of the lung was the omentum, or a pro-covering of the intestines, which had worked itself through the lung cav- ity and between the fractured ribs, the edges having grown fast around the opening. A singular coincidence in connection with this case is that Cap- tain Staple, while in New York some years ago, stopped at a show window of a book store and saw an open copy of “The Surgical History of the War,” and on the page before him was an il- lustration of his case.— Globe Demo- crat, How Congressmen Choose Their Seats. The following are the rules of the House in respect to the selection of seats : 1. At the commencement of each Congress, immediately atter the mem- bers and delegates are sworn in, the clerk shall place in a box prepared for that purpose a number of small balls of marble or other material equal fo the number of members and delegates, which balls shall be consecutively num- bered and thoroughly intermingled, and at such hour as shall be fixed by the House for that purpose, by the hands of a page draw said balls one by one from the box and announce the number as it is drawn, upon which announcement the member or delegate whose name on a numbered alphabetical list shall cor- respond with the number on the ball shall advance and choose his seat for the term which he is elected. 2. Before said drawing shall com- mence each seat shall be vacated and so remain until selected under this rule, and any seat having been selected shall be deemed forfeited if left unoccupied before the call of the roll is finished, and whenever the seats of members and delegates shall have been drawn, no second drawing shall be in order during that Congress. It Was Safe Then. “Did any man ever yet make any- thing by opposing a woman’s will ?” exclaimed a tormented husband. “Yes, I have made a good deal by that sort of thing, answered his broth- er Richard, “But Dick,” responded the other, “you're a lawyer, and the woman whose will you opposed was always dead.”’— Boston Globe. THE ESCAPE. Alone by the sounding sea they sat, He in his flannels white, She in her gown and jaunty hat, Fleecy and fluffy and white. “I’ve promised to marry you soon,” she said, “And I meant it, so never fear; But I wanted to ask if you knew,” she said, | “That gowns like this are dear? ‘I mention this gown because you see, It fits me and teels so nice; If you're a good guesser, my dear, may be You'll hit right away on the price.” “Why certainly, dearest,” he laughinly spoke, “I'm aware that your gowns are not Ta : And of course getting married is never a joke: Let us say twenty dollars or so.” She smiled. 'Twas a pitying smile she gave “It was ninety-five dollars,” quoth she; And her lover rose as a great green wave Came in from the sobbing sea. “Ninety Ly dollars!” he echoed. “Well, well ? Excuse me a moment, my own ; Someone is calling me in the hotel, But an instant I'll leave you alone.” And he sped away, and his bill he paid, And homeward his footsteps got ; And'as for the ninety five dollar maid, May be she’s sitting there yet. — Tom Mason in New York Sun. CE A Dark Horse, “Talk about being beaten at your own game,” said a well known turf: man, coming in from theraces at Map- mouth Park the other day, “I ran up against an experience down in the In- dian Territory in 1882 which would make a man hit his grandmother. At that time I was riding, and was consid- ‘ered the crack jockey of the country. Now, although I was such a success as a horseman, my hobby was cards. Something within me was whispering that my fortune was in cards, and in marked cards. I invested a large per- centage of my mount winnings in these cards, until I had a collection which would have done justice to the biggest cut-throat gambler in Denver. I sat up late into the night, when all the stable was quiet, poring over my mark- ed packs, studying on and solving the mysteries of his gambler’s cinch. “Ag last I felt that I had mastered the science, and now for some unsus- pecting victim. I went down stairs, and, finding all the feeders and traio- ers busy, made the general and sweep- ing remark that I had played no cards for a long time, but if any one present felt like taking a hand with me I would give him a chance for his life. “At this an old codger who was kindling the fire spoke up and said: ‘Well, Bud, ef yell wait tell I git this | durned fire to burnin’ I'll try an’ ac- commodate ye.’ “+All right, Whiskers,” I answered, and strolled on up stairs. In my room was a siable boy, who also per formed the duties of my valet; hand- ing him a certain pack of cards I told him to put them in his pockets and saunter about the stable, and when he heard me kicking about the cards we were playing with, and asking if no one had a deck of decent cards, he was to flash his deck with the offer to sell them to me. “Well, I went down stairs and found old Whiskers’ fire burning in great shape. He washed his hands mn a horse trough, wiped them on a low sack, took a big chew or black navy, and remarked that he wes ready to take my money. “We played for half an hour or so with a greasy old deck of his, and I was winning right along, though not so heavily as I wanted to. Moreover, I felt so smart about my marked cards that I was fairly itching to show off. Presantly I began my kick. First, the cards had sand on them; then they were greasy ; then I found a split one, and so forth, until I finally lost patience and called out in a loud voice to know if no one had a decent pack of cards. Quick as a flash my confeder- ate up: ‘I'se got er nice pack, boss, but dey cosses two bits.’ “J ‘took the cards, gruntel some- thing about their being a little better, tossed him a quarter and laid the deck beside me. Old Whiskers laid his finger on the top card of my deck, and with a dexterous twirl had them spread out before him on the table; then, gathering them np he laid the pack beside his own money and went on dealing with his old greasy ones. I let him go on awhile. afraid of arous- ing his suspicions if I was too insistent. Presently, however, I got the split card again, and asked suddenly, as if I, too, had forgotten my purchase : ‘Why don’t you use the new deck ?’ “¢Oh, I don’t give a durn which deck I use,’ he replied, and, picking up my deck dealt the hand out. “My luck began to change from that hand. Of course I could read the cards in his hand, and every time I caught him with a pair Itried to make him lay down. In this way I bad t> bet large suns of money on a small pair of my own, but the only time I could make him lay down was once in a while, when I really had the best hand. “I lost $900 in this way on one hand, trying to make my pair of sevens beat his pair of eights, and whenever I did have the top hand be would not call my bet. Of course this one sided busi- ness couldn’t lat long, and just oue hour from the time I had introduced those infallible marked cards of mine I was dead broke. t+Ye tired 2° broke in the old man’s voice upon my reflections. “Oh, no!’ I said, trying to keepa straight upper lip. “Want to play enny more ?' “tWell—no—er—TI guess not. broke—’ “As I went to get up the old man said, still shuffling that accursed deck ; ‘Say, Bud, whar'd ye git this here deck er cyards ?’ “‘You saw where I got them,’ I re- plied, somewhat netcled. “ ‘Wall, hit may uot be er powerful lot er satisfaction fur ye to know hit under the sarcumstances, Bud, but I want to tell ye that ye're a durn smart chap.’ *‘Oh, I guess I've gota thing or two to learn,’ I modestly replied. “Yas, thet's so,’ he said, ‘an’ the very fust thing ye larn, Bud, let hit be thet when ye're goin’ to use marked cards ye want to git some other bran’, ‘caze thar ain’t a 6 year ole boy in the nation that don’t know them durned things like a hoss knows oats.’ “Then, turning the deck backs up in his hand, he lifted the cards off one at a lime, and read them faster than I could read the faces.””—N. Y. Record. I'm Shoe Superstitions. ‘When a new pair of shoes is brought home, never place them higher than your headlif you would have good luck while wearing them, and never black- en them before you have had on both shoes, or else you may meet with an ' accident and perhaps sudden death. It is said that the old maids believe that when their shoes become untied and keep coming untied, it is true that their sweethearts are talking and thinking about them. The sweetheart, when on his way to gee his lady love, should he stub his right toe, will surely be weicome, but if he stubs his left toe, he may know he is not wanted.— Cincinnati Commer- cial Gazette. FRO Ted For and About Women. Among the women lawyers whose names are best ‘known in this country are Mrs. J. Ellen Foster, Mrs. Belva A. Lockwood, Miss Lelia J. Robinson, Miss Phebe W. Couzing, Miss Alice R. Jordan, who alone has & degree from tie Yale Law school, and Miss Mary A. Abrens, well known for philanthro- pic work in Chicago. Some very good advice about marry. ing is given to girls by Harper's Bazar I quote a small portion of a long article on the subject. “A man often does a girl a great in- justice in supposing that she cares more for material things than for what he has to offer her— love, companionship, a true heart. While to marry without some certain means of support is an un- doubted folly, to marry on a small in- come, when both parties to the contract are united in their determination to face the world together, is a piece of wisdom. There is a certain glory in meeting and conquering difficulties when people are young and strong. The very effort to accomplish an end on which two are set draws the two into a closer union. «If there is bread for one. there will be bread for two,” said the young wife of a man who set out to try what his brave heart and skilled hands could do to build up the fortune of his family, in a new environment half way across the globe. Thestrue wife would not remain in the old home with her parents in luxury when the young husband was starting out in perils ot sea and land, They dared their day of small things side by side. The imperative and especial demand of the day of small things is mutual con- fidence and inflexible justice. Granted these premises, the result is never un- certain. A beautiful little baby blanket was seen lately, of fine flannel embroidered with for-get-me-nots. It was folded exactly like the square of a shawl, with one puint hanging down in the back to make a pointed hood. At the sides it was caught together to form sleeves, so that it was a compromise between a loose wrap and a sacque. As tor the style of coiffure now pre- valent, says the “New York Sun,” only a Romola or one of Miss Muloch’s low- voiced women could wear with becom- ingness, for the very latest thing in hairdressing, copied from the old time mode, has smooth and glossy tresses combed trimly down on either side a fine white parting, to be twisted in a soft coil at the back. This style of coiffure demands a delicate, youthful face, a low, broad forehead and an ex- quisitely molded head. Another style, much affected by young girls, is a mod- ification of the 1820 style, with ringlets falling down either side of the face from a parting, the hair knotted high in a puff in the centre. The expression to. be worn with this coiffure should be one- of sweet modesty and gentle unopion- atedness. Still smarter and becoming to the full fledged belle or youthful matron is that coiffure ‘in which the hair is tossed back from the forehead to fall in soft, careless curls at theside or in a single curl in the middle of the fore- head. Some women of the dark, Span- ish type, with faultlessly regular fea- tures, dare attempt this style of coiffure with no curls and the smooth haircomb- ed back lightly to the twist. Handsome women are distinguished, intellectual women striking, with this sort of fram- ing. The woman who isn’t so sure of herself and her beauty will part her now dishonored bang a little at the side, per- haps, and leave the soft fringe to fall over her forehead, and the petite style of woman, who has an irregular sort of beauty, waves her hair into a tangle of curls, that fall back apparently in spite of her, to fiutter over her brow. . If more people understood that any appearance of hasteor carelessness was out of place in formal correspondence they would not use such an expression as “many thanks,” any more than the hardly less objectionable phrase “thanks” in conversation. Such curtness is like the old story, ‘worse than wicked, its vulgar.” After the bath it is a nice habit, par- ticularly in hot weather, to drop a little benzine in enough water to make a milky substance, and then apply it to the skin with a soft cloth. The result is a delightful, violet-like odor imparted to the body, not decided enough to bein the least objectionable. A very long watch chain is to be seen sometimes this season worn surrounding the neck, to fall over the accompanying blouse front in festoons and to tuck away the watch itself in the belt. Velvet will be everywhere seen this fall and on every possible article of at- tire—plain, ombred, striped, shot, plaid- ed and in mirror effects, reflecting many lights ALPACA FOR AUTUMN COUNTRY WEAR. The gowns being built just now for seaside and country wear are great modifications on the earlier season’s styles. Alpaca is gradually coming to the front, and this light and cool, if some- what stiff material, (excellent for bell- skirt) is admirably adapted for country wear and early September days. Tn beige, cool, clear grey or shot--the lat- ter exceedingly pretty —it will be much worn. The skirt is either plaid, stitched around the hem, or ornamented with three narrow stripes of gros-grain silk, stitched on about three inches from the bottom of the skirt; this trimming is either black or matches the shade of the material. Plain mohair braid in un- dulating rows is also used, placed round the hips about seven inches below the waist line, The corsages are of the universally adopted Eton jacket variety, tight-fit- ting in the back and finished with short coat tails. The broad-faced lapels are turned back with moire, satin or gros grain. These are worn over fancy blouses of silk, or mousseline de loie, with lace inserted ; or more frequently with the mannish and ever-smart stiffily- starched shirt with up-standing collar and‘‘stock’’ tie.