HELE Bellefonte, Pa., Sep. 8, 1893. THE DAY'S DEMAND. God give us men. A time like this demand Strong minds, great hearts, true faith and ready hands; ; Men whom the lust of office does not kill; Men whom the spoils of office cannot buy ; Men who possess opinions and a will; ; Men who have honor; men who will not lie; Men who can stand before a demagogue And damn his treacherous flatteries without winking: Tall men, sun-crowned, who live above the 0g, : . In pi duty and in private thinking. For while the rabble, with their thumb worn creeds, aa Their large professions and their little deeds, Mingle in selfish strife, lo! Freedom weeps, Wrong rules the land, and waiting Justice sleeps. —Dr. J. G'. Holland. BETWEEN THE LIGHTS. Love! my Love! the sunset splendor Left the world an hour ago; The maiden moon, all shy and slender, Swooning in the fervid glow. i ’Neath curtains drawn, the earth is listing The wooing sibilants of the sea; O’er land and wave to keep our t1ysting, Your constant spirit speeds to me. Love! my Love! at evening musing Apart and lone, save for y our dream, Memory past and present fusing Into one swift, shining stream— Leagues by hundreds numbered, parted From eyes wan with vigils vain; You, O leal and single heated! Answer, throb for throb, my pain. Love! my Love! wierd fancies thronging— As the south winds crisp the sea— Hope and boding, joy and longing, Have their minor tone for me. Yours may be of God's calm Forever, Safe from jar or touch of fate, Far as star-sown space can sever From me who expect and wait. Love! my Love! in purple drifting, Summer dusk the valley fills; To the leaning sky uplifting 5 Reverent brows, rise altered hills. By the meaning hush of even, By the mirrored deep in deep, . By your bourne or earth or heaven, I know your promised tryst you keep. —Manrion Harland in Harper's Baar, AN IRONY OF FATE. Being the Story of Mrs. Ormiston’s Match-Mek inge BY NELLIE E. C. SCOTT. Mrs. John Ormiston and her friend, Annie Churchill, sat together upon the piazza of the Ormiston residence in a delightful atmosphere of confidence and good-fellowship. They had been the vest of friends and comrades through all the changefal years of childhood and girlhood, but this was their first meeting since the marriage of the elder three years before. It had seemed a little strange at first this meeting after their long separation, but now every vestige of constraint had disappeared, and the day had been filled with amusing reminiscences, from their first day together at the dis- trict school, where they at once be- came rivals for the teacher's favor as in the pursuit of knowledge, represent- ed by such phases as, “I see an ox,” “Can the nag run?” “let the lad go,” and such like. 3 Viewed at this distance, those early experiences appeared much less mo- mentous than they bad done twenty years ago, and the friends laughed till they cried in recalling them. “And you remember, Julie, our little cavalier, Benny Holmes, who carried our hearts in his bosom for so many years ?”’ “Yes; we all loved him because of his curling chestnut locks, and his dark eyes and domineering ways,” re- plied Mrs. Ormiston. “So I used to think, but do you know I saw him this summer for the first time in years, and when 1 looked for those dazzling dark eyes they were the faded-est kind of a blue! And, too I had always thought of him as wedded to a high-horn, beautiful dam- sel, while his wile is the plainest little woman imaginable! Heigho! I sup- pose you think I’m wonderfully hila- rious, Julie, but it’s a case of ‘eat, drink and be merry, tor to-morrow you’ —return to a miserable existence.” “Why, Aunie!” “It is, indeed. I may as well tell you—we never used to have any se crets from each other, you know—that I am tormented almost to death over: an affair of the heart, not my heart, either, but that of a—no, I won’t abuse him behind his back, for he's really a good fellow if only he had any tact. But there ! how can one expect a mar to have tact when three women are without a particle of it 2”? “This is news,” commented Mrs. Ormiston. “You've never mentioned it in your letters.” “No, I was not sufficiently interes ted ; it’s ovly mother and the girls who consider him—Bryant, his name is—a great catch, I have refused him over and over, but they keep niging me to reconsider. I suppose it's natural for a man to persist when his intended mother and sister-in-law are on his side, though. At any rate he is terri- bly persistent, but 1t won’t do him a bit of good.” “That's right ; don’t be coerced,” “I shan’t."” “By the way, what's become of Frank Warren 7’ asked Mrs. Ormis- ton. “He ig still in Dixville, I believe,” “It has always seemed such a pity about him ; I used to think that you and he were made for each other, An. nie,” “I thought so myself for years. Ever since we were children together I used to think if I ever married any- body it would be Frank. But some- how when it came to the point, I couldn’t, I've never regretted any- thing in the world as I did my treat. ment of him, but what could I do? And he was 80 good through it all—he never reproached me once,” “He's still single 7’ Yes i “And free 2" “That I don't know, of course.” . “Sometimes. Annie, I've thought that perhaps, if you two should meet again—it Frank should ask you now—" Annie laughed. “Even that unmaidenly thought has occurred to me. But it won’t happen. A man’s constantcy is seldom of three years’ duration, unless it has some- thing to look forward to; although— pardon my egotism—I think his would stand the test if anyone’s did. Butit’s only in my lonesome moods that the thought has presented itsel!, Even if the affair could be re-opened it would probably end as it did before. But I forgot, Julie, in telling you all this stuff that you are a married woman now, and married women, I believe, hold it a duty to have no secrets, even of their friends, from their husbands.” “Why, Annie, could you think that of me? Be sure I shall not tell John a word of what you've told me,” her friend replied. Three months after that talk on the piazza Mrs. Ormiston started on a visit to Sorrelton, her old home. This visit to Sorrelton was her ostensible object, the one she mentioned to her husband; but the lady had thought a good many times of that conversation and had re- solved to kill two birds with one stone, 80 to speak. The happiness of two hu- man beings might be at stake, she ar- gued, and Mrs. John Ormiston was not the woman to shirk an unpleasant duty when so much might depend upon her action. She would stop off at Dixville over a train or two, interview Frank Warren and then proceed upon her journey. True, she had not seen Mr. Warren in years; perhaps he would think it an odd proceeding. Bat then it was the message, not the bearer of it, that he would be interested in. With all her lofty motive a sense of duplicity was uppermost in her mind as she bade John good bye. ‘ Dear fel- low how kind he was and how sorry to see her go. He never had any secrets from her. But—well thie should be the last. At Frank Warren’s boarding place, in Dixville, she was told that the young man was not expected home un- til 6.45 that evening, so Mrs. Ormiston decided in the interval to call upon and take tea with a cousin of her hus- ‘band, Miss Sarah Clark. Miss Clark urged her guest to stay, buc Julie ex cused herself on the plea of another call and by saying that she must take the 7.20 train for Sorrelton. : Mr. Warren had not returned at 6.45. It was in fact, after the 7.20 train had gone that he made his appearance. He recognized his’ visitor at once and readily assented to her request that he accompany her in her walk to the sta- tion, as she had something to say to him. It was hard for her to begin her sto- ry, although Frank seemed the sane good comrade he had been when they were playmates, but the time was short and she must hurry. “Frank, do you remember Annie Cnurchill 2” He started so violently at the ques tion that Julie’s hand almost slipped from his arm. “Yes,” he said. “It is about her that I came to see you.” “Ts she ili 2” Le asked quickly. “No”—a long pause. “You will pardon me, one question: Do you still love he ?” He turned and faced his companion. “Tnat’s a very strange question,” he said coldly. “I grant it, but you will answer it?" “Why, what isthe use? Why have you brought up the thing? Do you know that you have undone in a min- ute what it has taken me years to ac- complish ?’” he asked. “But suppose for a minute that An- nie was mistaken in her feelings when she refused you—mind, I don’t say that such is the case, this may be noth- ing more than a fancy of mine; but I believe she is interested in no one else, and I wondered if you still cared enough for her to run the risk ot an- other refusal. You must d:stinctly un- derstand, however, that she knows nothing of this; if she should ever find it out there would be an end to our friendship.” “I understand, and I thank you,” he said gravely, and then they parted. Mrs, Ormiston was very much sur- prised when she returned home a week later to find no one awaiting her at the station, for John bad never before failed to perform this duty, even after the briefest of absences. She stopped at his office on her way home, but Mr, Ormiston had not been there since morning, the clerk told her. Julie be- gan to be alarmed. John must be at home sick ! It seemed hours before she reached the house, for she could not rid herself of the feeling that something dreadful had happened or was about to happen ; and this feeling was intensified when a hasty search through = the rooms showed her her husband was not there. But she did find ‘a letter in John's handwriting and openingit with tremb- ling fingers, she read : Since you care so little for me as to invent excuses for visiting Massachu- setts, in order to meet another man, I will no longer be a bar to your free. dom. Not another word. - He did not even address her as his wife, did not say where he was going, did not even ex- press a regret for the happy years they bad spent together. It was as if the sky had fallen, as if the world had come to an end, and she were sitting there in darkness and chaos. It was idle to look for a gleam of hope in that pitiless message. John was gone, and she would never see him | again unless by accident, for she knew how immoveable he was once his mind was made up. “Oh, what a fool, what a fool I have beer,” she cried, rousing herself. “Why didn’t I let them work out their own fate without my interference! What are they all to me now that my husband has thrown me over 1” Another-sheet of paper slipped from the envelope to the floor. Perhaps this would explain matters. She picked it up ‘and read listlessly, for my own surprise, came a8 a relief rath. | nothing could hurt her now, since the blow of blows had fallen : DixviILLE, Oct. 8. My Dear Cousin: I think you would better look more closely after your wife's movements. She called here and stayed to tea on the evening of the 2nd ; I thought, although she did not say so, that she had stopped over on purpose to see me, as she said she must take the 7.20 train for Sorrel- ton. But, although she left me early, it was after eight o'clock when I saw her walking arm in arm with a hand. some young map, who she addressed as “Frank.” They were conversing so earnestly that they did not see me, Doubtless your wife can explain the discrepancy, at any rate I thought it my duty to tell you. Sincerely your cousin, Saran CLARK. This finished, Julia threw herself up- on the bed, and gave way to her mis. ery. Surely, there had never been such a wretched woman before, she thought, Robbed not only ot happi- ness and her husband, but of good name as well, if this conscienceless creature chose to publish her to the world. Of the terrible night that fol- lowed her home-coming, she remem- bered bat little, When morning came it found her with a wild regret that she was still alive, Her first and most natural impulse, when she could look at things more calmly, was to telegraph to her husband’s people, asking if he were there—to inquire of his friends, some of them might know of his whereabouts. But pride immediately forbade such a course. Why should she proclaim her humiliation before she was really obliged to? And as for calling him back—uo, she would not do it, He had gone of his own volition and he might stay. If he had so little confidence in her, they were better apart. Her anger grew warmer as she nursed it. How unjust, how unmanly of him, to forsake his wife at the first breath of suspicion! She sat down at her desk and wrote a letter to the runaway—a letter as cold and as cutting as] she knew how to make it, ending by telling him that she would not seek the return of an unwilling wate, but would leave the place at once and go to earn her living. This letter written, she enclosed it in'an envelope directed to John’s fath- er, requesting that it be given or for- warded to him atthe first opportunity. Then Julie set about collecting her few personal belongings. It cut her to the heart to take down stonily at his wife, der,” said he, grimly, “I really should act upon this discovery, and that fate was kind to me. Sincerely your triend, “FRANK WARREN.” Late in the afternoon, when every. thing was in readiness for ber depart ure on the morrow, Julie started for a walk along the quiet way for, now there was nothing more to be done, it seemed that she should go wild in the silent, empty house. She walked long and aimlessly ; it was almost dusk when she returned to the house, and as she let herself in with a latch-key a tall figure advanced to meet her in the shadowy ball—it was John ? With a little shriek she dropped up- on the hall seat, and John, who had taken in at a glance the haggard face and dejected-looking little figure, was at ber side in an instant. “Julie, what does that devilish letter of Sarah’s mean? Who was it she saw you with in Dixville? She was mistaken, wasn’t she 2’ he asked with- out giving her time to answer. With a tragic though ineffectual movement, seeing that her hushand held her fast, Julie attempted to wave him away. So he was sorry, was he? He had repented and come back, had he? Well, she'd teach him a lesson ! “I was walking with Frank Warren and the letter is true,” she said defiant- ly ; it was a pity if she couldn’t be de- fiant and indignant after all he had made her suffer. relieve her mind ! sir. Yes, she would re- “Don’t touch me, Go away I” This unequivocal reply to his ques- tions changed the melting mood at once. dJobn withdrew to a respectful distance and regarded his wife stonily. “Ah ?” said he, “Mr. Frank Warren has kept himself in the background pretty effectually—I don’t remember that However, it's quite soon enough— quite soon enough,” striding up and down the room, while Julie followed him with blazing eyes. this morning that perhaps I had been basty—that the whole thing must be a gigantic blunder ; but now that I have your own word for it—if yon love an- other man better than me--" I've ever heard of him before. “I thought “John Ormiston! Now I never shall speak to you so long as—Loye another man better than than you! Well, it wouldnt be a hard thing to do, for I hate you, and—and all the rest of the abomiable sex, except poor papa. I'm going to him now—he won’t be- lieve evil of me—he l-loves me. ‘that you can be so unjust to me after all these years—’’this last from the cushions. But John Ormiston stood and looked “I ghouldn’t won- the little things that John and she had | not wonder if you expect me to apolo- put in place with such delightful labor when theyifirct went to housekeeping. With what bright hopes and expecta- tions they had looked forward to the happy years ahead. And now, she felt that the desolation of this hour would weigh upon her heart forever. The desk which they had used in common was such a’ characteristic af- fair that Julie hesitated to disturb its miscellaneous contents, There were hastily drawn sketches of John's mak- ing, some humorous or descriptive bits to be worked up into a story when he got time, clippings of verse from the papers, plans of houses laid by against that looked for day when they should “build.” Everything spoke of John, but the wife would not listen ; she took a bundle of letters from a far corner, they were tied with white ribbon, as is the time-sanctivned right of love letters, and would have hurned them, bat some how she could not, In the secret drawer where their few valuables were kept she found a little pile of money, a layer of bills, with a pyramid of gold pieces ou top. Julie counted it in sur prise—there was about $100, which must have been nearly all the ready money he possessed. This was for her | [ manifestly, but— “I won’t touch a penny of it,” she said, bitterly, “he doesn’t know me yet.” In another corner hidden away un- der a pile of papers, was a tiny Japan- ese box, and this Julie opened with something like curiosity. Inside was something that melted her pride in an instant—an exquisite little watch with her monogram on its shield, while in- side the cover was the inscription : To Julie, ou her birthday, with her husband’s love. This, then, was to have been a sur- prise, her birthday coming upon the 12th. As she read the words through blinding tears Julie gradually came to look at things from John’s point of view. He knew nothing of Frank Warren or of Annie Churchill's affairs, Again, his cousin Sarah Clark, was a good woman according to her lights. She was uncompromizingly truthful, and John could have no “reason for doubting that she had acted, as she said, from a sense of duty. The postman’s whistle interrupted her musings, and her heart almost stood still as she held out her hand for the letter, for it might be from John! But it was not. The letter bore the postmark of Dixville, a name now hateful in her sight. “Mr, Dear Mrs. Ormiston,” it ran, “no doubt you are anxious to hear what results followed from our recent interview. Briefly, then, [ called up- on Miss Churchill two days ago and renewed my offer of marriage. The proposal seemed to pain her ex- ceedingly. She was very sorry, had hoped that I had forgotten her long ago. But she could not marry me, be- cause—she loved another, a very re cent acquaintance, as I heard later. So that is ended. ; “Now, lest I awaken undeserved sympathy in your kind heart, I must add that Ancie's confession, greatly to | er than a blow. In that moment I re- | alized that T had been cherishing the | shadow! of love, rather than its sub. | stance, and that my heart was really th enlisted elsewhere, Perhaps, will be glad to know that 1 and gize.” “No.” she said, “I don’t. I expect you to be a brute—if you want to. Apologize to papa, if you like, but don’t apologize to me.” “Julia,” he burst out, in heart breaking tones, “can’t you see I'm in the devil ofa temper and that yon ought to have some consideration for my feelings 2”? . “0h,” said Julia “go away !” “I won’ty)” said John. “I aever meant to. I couldn’t be such an ass as that —bat what would you do if you were jealous 2 Wouldn’t you make a fool of yourselt, too?” he inquired, with starling distinctness. Julie’s heart was not adamant, her righteous wrath not proof against this argument. lifted her tearstained face a little, and asked : After some hesitation she “And you'll n-never be jealous and hateful again ?" “No, never, if we live to be a thous- i.” “And you don’t think I love any- body else 9” “Perish the thought.” “And—and John, I didn’t mean that really bated you.” “No, my dear, only that you detest- ed me.” “John I" She slips her hand into his as he seats himself at her side. “Then I'li let you read this letter—though you don’t deserve to.” When John had finished reading Frank Warren's letter he took Julie in his arms and kissed ber with much tenderness, “Poor little girl,” said he, “poor lit- tle girl! What a brute I’ve been |” “You see, John,” she said, after tell- ing the story in detail, “I thought my mission was to make people happy, but in this case they wouldu’t be made hap- py, and so I didn’t succeed. Now I don’t know who to try my powers on next,” “Suppose, my dear, you try your hand on me,” said Jobn innocently. “I'll be a perfectly willing subject, and success is almost certain.” “Why, what a bright idea!” said she,— Times. A Short Apple Crop. The Demand Already Exceeds the Supply. As a consequence of a report received in this place to the effect that the apple crop would be very light this year, considerable causedamong the fruit dealers. excitement has been According to the opinion of a well- known auctioneer, the apple crop will be only one-quarter of last season’s pro- duction. apples were shipped to Europe up to the end of November. falling off of 86,000 barrels as com- pared with the shipments of 1891, Large orders are said to be coming in from the West for apples and the pres ent demands is in excess of the supply. The region best suited for the cultiva- tion of the apple crop is limited, while the demand is constantly increasing. Last year 753,000 barrels of This showed a The consignment of oranges and lem- ons to this market are also reported to (be smaller this year than usual, a fact apparent by the price being advanced to $5.75. A Baltimore exchange, —— Civil engineers say the wings of e butterfly display the greatest possible too, you lightness combin proceed to possible strength. with the greatest Physiology and Hyglene.—A Word to Parents, At this particular time, book agents are busily engaged in many places in- ducing school boards to adopt, under the new free text book law, unrevised and inferior physiologies. Parents should be on the alert If they want truth and not error tanght to their children. The best text books on this topic, many of which are revisions of old books have received the endorsement of prominent educators, which endorsement can be found on :heir title pages, There is an excellent variety of them, and, no ex- cuse whatever exists for the regulation or adoption ot ‘antiquated defective | books. There would have been no need of revision if the old books had not been defective and ill graded ; fall of long | technical terms, rendering the study | difficult for the pupils. In the revised | books these faults are corrected. Scme | school boards are induced to buy charts, | with one book for the teacher, instead. of | placing books in the hands of the pupils who can read. Physiology and Hygiene is, by law, a regular study like Geo- | graphy. Geographly is not taught ! without books, though maps sre used, ! Charts cannot take the place of books in the hands of pupils, and at best ean only be supplementary. The attempt | to make them take the place of text | books in the study of Physiology and | Hygiene, is a violation of the law, and | will roake the study a failure. The School Laws and Decisions of Penn. | sylvania, edition of 1892, page 115, | paragraph 163, contains the following | in relation to this study :-—*The sub. ! ject must be systematically studied as | well as taught, which cannot be done | without text books in the hands of | the scholars. The proper preparation of | the lessons assigned to the pupils in the daily exercises of the schools, makes the | use of text books absolutely necessary, even if the law did not peremptorily re- quire their general introduction, as it does in this instance ”” Another section prescribes oral instruction, as it does in this instance.” Another section pre- scribes oral instruction for pupils too young to use books. Parents should keep a strict watch on this innovation of using charts instead of text books in the hands of the pupils. It may not be generally known that several school boards in ‘the State have forfeited the State appropriation to which they would have been entitled, through failure to fulfil the provision of the law relating to Physiology and Hy- giene. This law provides that every pupil in every department of the public schools shall be taught as a regular study, the effects of alcoholic drinks, stimulants and nar. cotics upon the human system. School boards which do not provide this teach- ing for all pupils as the law requires, cannot truthfully sign the Affidavit and Certificate which must be returned to the State Department of Public Instruc- tion in order to secure the appropria- tion ; and any school board which does sign this when the study has not been taught as a regular study to every pu- pil, is simply swearing or affirming what 1s not true. Here is something for the voters who elect such a school board to reflect upon. This warning teaching to which every pupil is entitled, is apt to he spec- ially negiected 1n the primary grades ; while it is in these grades that it should be most carefully taught, because 60 per cent. of all pupils never get to the high- er grades at all, Parents and all citizens who regard the best interests of the young, should by their watchfulness, help them to receivé this teaching, which may be of such lasting value. Mary F. Lovell, Bryn Mawr, Pa., Superintendent of Department of Scien- tific Temperance Instruction in W. C. T. U. of Pennsylvania. - mcm. How to Care for the Eyes. The Cause. of Nearsightedness Avoid it, and How to Probably ne part of the hody is so little thought of as the eyes, and no part is so deserving of attention. What may be remedied by a litile attention is very apt to be neglected until perman- nent injury is done. Children’s eyes es- pecially should be protected from strong sunlight. Continued looking at bright objects so fatigues the muscles of the eye that squinting has been known to result by reason of the weakness of tha muscles. The same thing is encouraged by the habit with some people of bring- ing the finger or sume other object grad- ually closer and closer to the eyes until the eyes will be seen to draw closer to- gether. These things should be care- fully avoided. Nearsightedness is caused by prolong- ed reading in a sitting posture, the head gradually falling on the chest and the eyes thus getting too close to the book or Pipe brings on a short focus defect and makes necessary the use of glasses for seeing far objects. The sleeping room of children should not have a light glaring into the eyes of a child. A screen is very essily ‘made of tin, or a piece of cardboard securely fastened so that it will not get near the light but will leave enough hight to see with and enable the child to sleep with- out scowling or squinting or being rest- less from to much light. When children have what is called a cold in the eyes, it is because they have caught a cold in the body, and the remedy isto cure the cold, when the eyes will recover likewise. In case of accidents the best things to use are cold water and very soft linen, bathing the eye very gently. . It is good to bathe the eyes with luke- warm water, but it is very bad to do so immediately before going out into a cold atmosphere, as the warm water makes the skin tender and produces a drawn appearance around the eyes. Witch hazel is a very good thing to bathe the eyes with. It should be diluted with water for children’s eyes. Indications of trouble with the eyes, such as squinting or nearsightedness, should be at ae eens and the child taken to an oculist to be fitted with suitable glasses. Ap eminent New York oculist says one of the greatest secrets of healthful eyes and good eyesight in children is keeping them clean. ES SSE —— Greek paintings were executed in distemper, with glue, milk, or white of eggs, and on wood, clay, plaster, stone, ! parchment and canvas. For and About Women. Mrs. Phelps-Stokes recently bought a tablecloth and napkins &«t a woman's exchange tor which she paid nearly 300. Miss Beulah True, of Hancock, Me., who furnished the illustrations for a recently-published history of Castine, acts this summer as purser on one of the Maine steamers, of which her father is captain. She is yet a student in the Normal School at Castine, but is thor- oughly conversant with nautical mat- ters, and able to take her place at the wheel. That the Anglo-maniac wears “boots” and “coats” and “petticoats” instead of shoes, jackets and skirts ; “nibs” instead of bathes; never telegraphs, but “wires,” and says “I fancy,” but under no circumstances “I guess.” That college pins and club insigna were never intended as a decoration for the feminine corsage, and are decidedly outre. That the smart young woman of the period never use the word ‘‘genticmen except in referring to waiters and coachmen. The polka dot promises to gain in popularity as cool weather advances. Fabrics, ribbons, silks and garnitures of every description exhibit the polka-dot pattern. A novelty in foot-gear is the low-cut house shoe of bronze kid, stamped plenteously with gold polka dots. This same design appears in sil- ver and pale gold upon white kid. Women, says a well-known physician are breaking down more rapidly than men. The reason of this is that they allow themselves to take less real rest. When a man drops business, he drops itt. When a woman lets go ‘of any work she may have in mind, she ties it to her apron strings, as it were. She has been taught through long years of training that itis high crime and misdemeanor to let anything escape her mind. So, when she is supposed to be at rest, she is constantly pinching herself to see if she hasn’t torgotten something. In this way she carries her burden into her resting hours and sits down among the roses of relaxation with her foot on the treadle that turns the grindstone of drudgery. If men kept their noses to the grind- stone as persistently as women they would be nervous and irritable ‘beyond compare.” If women would get their own consent to rest they would have better complexions, better stomachs and a happier life. Velvet collarettes separate from the gown are among the autumn novelities for completing street costumes. They consist of a standing ruffle of doutle bias velvet joined by & jetted gimp band to a circular cape collar that is plain or edged with narrow curled = ostrich feathers. These will be worn in black velvet, with any gown, or they may be formed of colored velvet like that which forms a portion of the gown. Cafe noir is the darkest shade of brown that will be worn this season. Ujiji or mud color is ene of the latest. Chene is a fashionable oak tint that is much used in combination with reseda or golden brown velvet or bengalime, Goldenrod, maize, mandarin and honeysuckle are the names of handsome yellow shades in evenlng dress and millinery, and “dawn,” the rosy, golden hue remains the queen of all evening tints, it having a wonderfully softening and beautifying effect upon the complexion under artifi- cial light. The lovely rose and reseda shades have lost none of their popular. ity. "Don’t you eure if your duck suit gets a spot on it before you are ready to put the whole thing in the wash. Chalk is the thing. In faet you hardly need to put the rig in the wash the wholeseason. Only of course, you must not let him hug you, because chalk comes off. Sleeves, as a rule. will be simple repe- titions of those worn during the sum- mer, subject to slight variations on ac- count of changes in fabric. The Queen Arne model with its full drooping shoulder puff and close forearm ; the bishop and the mutton-leg are still prominent in the field. The Valois shape with a closely-buttoned or laced coat sleeve to the elbow, with pear- shaped drapery above, is this season often banded by ribbon, passementerie or velvet, or slashed with insertions of fancy silk or brocades. The Breton and the Hungarian cap sleeves are seen upon new combination gowns of benga-" line and velvet, and are especially pop- ular with very broad-shouldered women who dislike huge balloon puffs and other spreading elaborations on the sleeve tops. The most conspicuous shades among the new colors are blue and brown, though green will not lose 1ts standing in the new goods. There are at least six or seven new shades of brown, al} more or less of the yellowish order, the deepest of them being but little darker than chestnut. Of the blues, the very dark shades are falling somewhat into disfavor with the extremely fashionable, probably on account of the almost uni- versal popularity of navy blue serge, and the shades most shown are of that intermediate kind which suggest tinges of green or gray. / A decided decrease in skirt widths isa noticeable characteristic of autumn fashions. Buttons have disappeared in their capacity as mere fasteners. Most gowns seem to fasten nowhere at all, the com- ing together of edges being accomplish ed under frills, fullness and fiddle-dee- dees of all sorts. When the button does appear, its useful intent is quite subor- dinated to its position as. an ornament. To be sure it does button, and it is only put where it can and should button, but it is made of silver or gold and the choicest workmanship is not too fine for it. That silver toilet ware is no longer the correct caper, but that every girl who knows what is what is making a collection of brushes, mirrors and toilet boxes of yellow ivory. That silk petticoats however dainty, are to be superseded by fine linen and lace-trimmed lawn for house and car- riage wear.