Demorratic Wado. Bellefonte, Pa., August 18, 1893 S—— AN AUGUST AFTERNOON. All the long August afternoon, The little drowsy stream Whispers a melancholy tune, As if it dreamed of June And whispered in its dream. The thistles show beyond the brook Dust on their down and bloom, And out of many a weed grown nook The aster flowers look, With eyes of tender Sioem. —W. D. Howells. MY LITTLE WHITE ROSE. It was peeping through the bramble, That little wild white rose, Where the hawthorn hedge was planted, My garden to inclose. All beyond was fern and heather, All within was sun and shelter, And the wealth of beauty’s store, But I did not heed the fragrance Of floweret or tree, For my eyes were on that rosebud, And it grew too high for me. In vain I strove to reach it Through the tangled mass ot green ; It only smiled and nodded Behind its thorny screen. i Yet, through that summer morning, I lingered near the spot, 0! why do things seem sweeter If we posses them not ? : My garden buds were blooming, Bat all that I could see Was that little mocking white rose, Hanging just too high for me. So, in life’s wilder garden, There are buds of promise, to, Beyond our reach to gather, ut not beyond our view ; And, like the little charmer That tempted me astray, They steal out half the brightness Of many a summer’s day. Oh! hearts that fall with longing For some forbidden tree, Look up and learn a lesson From my white rose and me. Tis wiser far to number The blessing at my feet, Than ever to be sighing For just one bud more sweet, My sunbeams and my shadows Fall from a pierced hand ; 1 can surely trust His wisdom, Since his heart I understand. And maybe in the morning, When His blessed face 1 see, He will tell me why my white rose Grew just too high for me. TE DLT E—— THE SENATOR'S COAT. . How It Served a Colored Minister for Many Years. When Senator Mereey reached home one evening late in the autumn he was met at the door by his wife. It was a fine old mansion, and the hall was broad and inviting. Mrs. Mersey was an ideal hostess, and her parlors were thecentre trom which emanated the best moral and benevolent influences. Senator Mersey had founded a col- lege for colored people in the south, and had endowed or become a trustee of several other institutions. His name was a tower of benevolence. Mrs. Mersey was a true helpmeet, Her charities were bestowed with such un- tiring zeal and cultivated wisdom that people came to her to be taught how to help others. One day when some one told ber a heart-wringing story about a voor woman she exclaimed, with tears in her eyes : “Oh, give me her address! I would rather eee that woman than the Queen of Sheba.” And the best of it was, she not only meant what she said but did it. “How fine you look!” she said that autumn evening twenty years ago, as she met her husband at the door. He laughed gently. “Qh, do I? Well, it is my old over- coat that deserves the compliment, I have had it pressed.” “Iam glad you have,” replied the lady, “for I have left a place for it in the box that goes down south to-mor- row. You will have to buy a new one.” It never occurred to the senator to differ from his wife in such matters— or any matters at all ; and the nextday, when the box was nailed up, the sena- tor’s overcoat was nailed up in it. That was, as I bavye said, long ago, and thoughtfulness for the poor was 80 common 1n that household that the senator and his wife forgot all about it. Now, I am telling a true story, only changing names and places, so as to protect the modesty of two of Christ's servants, who are careful that their left hands do not tell their right hands of their noble deeds. Last year Mr. and Mrs. Senator Mer- sey visited the south. They stopped at a little country town, and there met a colored minister, who though poor, was in many respects far above the Syerage of the colored people about im. His wife was a lovable woman—in- telligent, thrifty and neat. She had been a schoolmistress for several years, and was a devoted mother, inspiring her children with a strong desire for an education. Indeed so well had this worthy couple done in this respect that their oldest boy is professor of Greek in a colored college, and would be hon- ored as a citizen in any community. ‘When these good people learned the names of their visitors they showed un- expected emotion. On being questioned the minister's wife told the following story : “About twenty years ago my hus- band was sent as a delegate to the Methodist convention. That was be- fore you were sent to England to the conference’’—she turned toward her husband with a proud smile. “I must say his overcoat was quite shabby. It had been worn four years; I had done the best for it I could. Before they made him moderator Deacon Garvin came up to him. (Brother Jackson,” said he, ‘you ought to have another overcoat.’ “I have a good one on, that I am sure can't be a stumbling block to the . people of Zion,’ “¢ dunno 'bout that,’ said the dea- con feeling of the overcoat from collar to pockets. ‘Now, I can jee’ fix you up finely, Brother Jackson,’ said he. ‘A box has jes’ come from Senator Mersey, and in it is an overcoat that will fit you like the rind on a persim- mon, and you can send your overcoat to some poor brother down on the nar- rer-gage.’ “So he brought out ihe overcoat, and my husband tried it on, and it fit- ted him finely. It was a beautiful overcoat. And how long do you sup- pose he wore that overcoat?” She turned triumphantly to Mrs. Mersey. a “Three years, perhaps?’ inquired the lady, feeling almost as if she were insulting the family. “It was quite worn out, wasn't it dear?’ She ap pealed to her distinguished husband. “I don’t think I recall the giving of the overcoat,” smoothing the rim of his hat. “You don’t mean that?” ister’s wife looked quite burt. “Why, it was such a fine overcoat! My hus- band wore it six years, and then, I must say, it began to look a little shab- by, didn’t it Mr. Jackson ?”’ Mr. Jackson nodded vigorously. “Then I set my wits to work, and found a way out of the trouble. I told him I would rip the seams and turn it, and put it together again, and then, as the material was so fine, it would be as The min- good as new. “(But suppose you can't fit the pieces together,’ said he, ‘then I shall be without any coat.’ “You give me the coat and just trust me,’ said I. So I ripped it up, and cleaned it, and sewed it together, and, sure enough, it was almost as good as new. I put on it a new collar and new buttons. I declare it made the good man quite too vain to live, for Deacon Garvin said to him: ¢ “Where did you get your new over coat, Brother Jackson? Tas the lightning of the Lord struck your bouse 2” «Tt has,’ he said. ‘The Lord has given me a powerful wife. It's ths same old overcoat of Senator Mersey’s turned inside out.’ : It was such a beautiful material, you see, Mrs. Mersey! And he wore that coat for five years more. “ Now,’ says he. ‘wife, I suppose I shall have to throw Senator Mersey’s overcoat away. It’s getting almost too shabby to wear.’ “And I had to confess that it was pretty bad, all stained and colored with age. But Ithought it over for a week. It was of such nice material and had been so handsome that it really seemed a shame to throw itaway. It was like an old friend. One morning when I was a-washing, it occurred to me, ‘Why, it can be dyed. It is such good stuff, it will take the dye nicely.’ Surely the Lord sent me that thought. “I ripped it up again, and dyed it, and got a quarter of a yard for a new collar, and new buttons, and for less than two dcllars he had snch a good looking overcoat that it was, I am sure, almost the envy of the country. Brother Garvin would have liked to have seen it, but the good man bas gone to glory.” She stopped for breath, while Sena. tor and Mrs. Mersey looked from one to another with the smiles that bor- der on tears. “Well do you know, my husband wore that coat for five years more,” ghe began, in a quieter tone. “The first two years the dye held its color very well. Then it of course faded and iooked seedy, and I must say, toward the end, it was very shabby indeed. Then my husband was ashamed to wear it, and I bad mended it all I could, and I was ashamed to have him, We both felt badly about it. “You can do nothing more with it. I’ve worn it inside and outside, and I reckon now I'll have to go without.’ My husband said thie. I knew it was true, and 1 went into the bedroom and had a good cry. I reckon I must have prayed right smart over it, for one night the inspiration from on high came to me—why not make it over for a coat for Jimmy ? He needs an over- coat. The Lord surely gent that thought to me. “Jimmy was just ten years old then ; that was four years ago. So I ripped it up and cut off the worst parts and made a very good-looking coat for Jim- my. You see, it was such flue ma- terial I couldn’t help but use it as the Lord told me. “You ought to have seen Jimmy strut around with that coat on. He thought it was the finest coat in town, and so warm.” She stopped and looked at her hus- band and wiped away a furtive tear while she stifled a cough. “Where is Jimmy?" asked Mrs. Mersey, choking. “I should like to see Jimmy with the overcoat on.” “He died two years ago,” came the low reply. “The Lord took him. I'm sure he’s better off with Him than with us.” The mother broke down. She went over to her dusky husband and took his hand and pui it on her cheek and kissed it. It was a rare caress, “Excuse me,” she said, turning to her guests in apology. “Jimmy was our youngest, and we loved him so much. The Lord loved him, too, I think so he took him where he will be safe forever.” With that expression of the simple and supreme faith which puts toshame all cold and scientific explanations of the awful mystery of death, she went out of the room to hide her sorrow. But soon she came back. While she was gove not a word was spoken in the neat parlor. The old minister could not speak, and his visitor's eyes were full, and their lips quivered. “Here is the coat,’ said Mre, Jack- son, tenderly. She held it up. What a travesty—what a ghost of an overcoat it was. The senator from one of the proudest states in the union looked at it seeking for a familiar feature. Then he arose and felt for his pocketbook. “Permit me, madam,” he said, in his stately way, ‘to have the honor of purchasing that overcoat of you at its original price. I should like to take it to the north, Iam sure I can make it | the means of sending down many oth- er overcoats to your people by giving its history as you have told it. “I don't see how I can, sir,” pleaded the mother. “It seems eo like an old friend, and then—and then—it was Jimmy's!” “J think you will excuse her, sir,” said the husband ; “you see we've be. come attached to it.” “Never mind,” said the senator's wife, soothingly ; “I know another way of letting the overcoat tell its own story to generous people.” And I hope she may not be dissatis- fied with the way it has been told— Herbert D. Ward in Youth's Companion. Pennsylvania R. R. Exhibit at the World's Fair. A Complete Illustration of the Progress of American Railroads.—Striking Contrasts Be- tween the Past and Present. The World’s Fair visitor who finds his way into that vast enclosure by the Sixty-fourth street entrance will come almost immediately upon a building as architecturally attractive as any of the minor structures in all the great White City by the lake; a building classical in de- tail as well as in general conception, standing in the midst of a plateau of green sward with walls the tint of old ivory, and garnished with flags that re- flect the brighter hues of the rainbow. While it is an annex, so to speak, of the great red and green and gold Transpor- tation Building across the way, it is an annex complete in itself, and within and without exhibits in an exhaustive manner never before attempted, much less accomplished, the beginning pro- gress, and development of railroading in the United States are exemplified by the Standard railroad of America. It is, in fact, the Pennsylvania Railroad Com- pany’s own edifice, and it prsenis an interesting and scholarly showing of that corporation’s history from the first in- ception of one of its component parts in 1815, when the frst charter was granted to a railroad company in America to construct a road from Trenton to New Brunswick, N. J., to the present time when it controls nearly ten thou- sand miles of road penetrating thirteen States, and with termini in New York Harbor, at the National Capital, in three great cities of the Ohio Valley, and at five of the great lake ports. Whilethe building’s main facade is perhaps the more beautiful of the two onc-hundred-and-forty-foot sides of the structure, the rear view will doubtless prove the more attractive to the student of railroad progress, in that it presents, with its attendant features, an excellent reproduction of a model Pennsylvania Railroad station of the present day, with signal tower, tracks, ballast, switches, frogs, overhead foct-bridge, fences, and gates. The tracks, in themselves, are as indicative as anything else of the raarked development in this branch of mechanics in the last sixty years, the exhibit showing, in juxtaposition with as fine a specimen of the standard Pennsylvania rail of 1892 as has ever been rolled, pieces of the Camden and Amboy rail of 1831, of the rail used on the old Portage road over the Alleghen- ies, and of the very crude wood and iron rail with which the Madison and Indianapolis road was originally laid. Some idea of the contrast may be had when it is stated that whereas the Cam- den and Amboy rail weighed only thirty-five pounds to the yard, the standard rail of to-day, of which the examples shown are one hundred feet in length, weigh one hundred pounds to the yard, being nearly three times as heavy. Upon the tracks is another contrast even more marked. Probably the most conspicuous, and certainly the most in- teresting, object in the display is the or- iginal John Bull train, which here rests after its thousand-mile journey across the continent from New York. The old engine itself—the oldest in America —which was constructed by George Stephenson, 1n England, and brought to this country in 1831 for use on the Amboy Division of the Pennsylvania Railroad, stands there to-day precisely as it was in 1836, after having had add- ed to it such improvements as were then suggested to the minds of the American engineers. Its weight, with its some- what cumbersome tender, is only thirty- two thousand one hundred pounds, as against one hundred tons, the weight of the ordinary standard passenger loco- motive of to-day, and beside the modern machine, of course, it looks very much like a toy. The passenger coaches, glistening with a fresh coat of green paint, are so low that a tall man cannot stand upright within them ; their brakes are worked by means of handles similar to those on the horse-cars of the present time, and the only method of lighting them is by a tallow dip in each end of each car. As example of the magni- tude to which the railroad cars of to-day have attained, no better choice could have been made than the selection for exhibit, side by side with this tiny pas- senger train, of the two tremendous ve- hicles on which the mammoth Krupp guns were whirled from Baltimore to the Exposition ; the manner in which the guns were carried being shown by means of full-size models, made of staff, of the standard sixteen-inch and ten-inch guns, such as are now used by the Uni- ted States War Department. This policy of contrast, which is so apparent without the building, is carried throughout the entire display, and the interior with its relief maps, charts, models, lay figures, photographs, and relics, gives a better idea of the wonder- ful growth of the greatest railroad sys- tem of the country than could possibly be had in any other way. The walls of the great marble-floored hall, into which the visitor may enter from either the front or the rear, are lined with hand- some mahogany show-cases, while the columns, so arranged as to form a colon- nade on each side, are surrounded by folding frames for the display of thou- sands of exhibits that could be shown to advantage in no other way. In arranging the display the smallest details have not been negleeted, and as an indication of the thoroughness with which these little matters have been looked after, the labeling of the objects with a descriptive label in five languages is especially noteworthy. In the centre of the building, under the dome, upon a platform shaped like a Greek cross, are three relief maps that are certain to attract no little notice. They illustrate the changes in the methods of crossing the Alleghenies from the year 1832 to the present time, and have been prepared with such great care as to have won words of high com- mendation from scientists, whose atten- tion has been called to them. One of these in particular, the largest of the three, which is twelve feet long by four feet wide, and which shows the old por- tage and the new portage roads, togeth- er with the present line of the Pennsyl- vania ‘Railroad, including the Horse- shoe Curve Allegrippus, and the district of the Johnstown flood, is especially val- uable as being the first and only relief map ever made of that section. The original map, from which the basis of the present work was obtained, was one which belonged tothe late J. N. Du- Barry, vice-president of the company. It was in lead pencil, never having been filledin in ink, and was traced so the legend runs, by President J. Edgar Thomson, himself. The other two re- lief maps, or models whick form two arms of the cross, show the Horseshoe Curve and Plane No. 1, with canal- boats, cars, and locomotives. The rest of the floor space between the colonnades is dotted with pedestals and platforms upon which are models relating particularly to the developed system of transportation of to-day. On one side, for instance, is 2 beautiful re- production in minature of the double- decked ferry-boat “Washington,” one of the fleet plying between Jersey City and New York. In every particular the model maker has closely followed the original, and has succeeded in turn- ing out a piece of work as nearly per- fect in every detail as it is possible to imagine. On gala days it is proposed to decorate this little vessel with bunt- ing, and arrangements have been made to light the interior with electric lights precisely as the boat from which it is copied is lighted. The method of hand- ling freight cars in New York Harbor is shown here in the same way by means of models of a tug-boat and float. To- wards the other end of the building are lay figures in uniform of the several classes of employes of the company. An object of considerable interest to many is a perspective map, thirty-three feet long, showing the position of each train in motion on the morning of Col- umbian Day, October 21st, 1892. With regard to the arrangement of the exhibits in the cases, and the swing- ing frames, considerable care has been exercised to carry out the fundamental ideas of grouping and contrast. One corner has, therefore, been given up to those features which have especially to do with motive power, another is devoted to engineering and maintenance of way, a third relates particularly to the relief department of the company, and in the remaining quarter of the spacious room are general relics. A feature of much interest to the vis- itor is the Bureau of Information, which will be maintained in the building. Ex- perienced employes will be placed in charge, who will not answer questions concerning the exhibits, but will give information relative to train schedules in current use, and other matters of in- terest to the traveler. Complete as this exhibit of the Penn- sylvania Railroad Company would seem, it is lacking in one or two essentials; but this lack is made up, the visitor will iind, when the General Transpor- tation Building comes in for inspection. There the company has deemed best to exhibit its finished products of 1892, in the shape of cars, turned out at its own Altoona shops, and accordingly shows three specimens of most excellent work- manship—a standard passenger coach, a standard refrigerator car, in which dairy products are transported, a stand- ard track-inspection car, and a track- indicator which shows graphically the condition of the track, such as is used annually by the company’s officers in making a tour of the lines prior to awarding prizes for the best pieces of road-bed, &c. Altogether the exhibit reflects abundant credit upon the comn- pany iu general, and in particular upon Mr. Theodore N. Ely, Chief of Motive, Power, who conceived the general scheme, and Mr. J Elfreth Watkins, who, with years of service as a civil en- gineer in the employ of the company, and a subsequent experience of seven years as curator of the transportation section of the Smithsonian Institution, has so successfully carried it into execu- tion. The Stanford University. The Richest College in the World—Its Wealth Hard to Estimate. The newspaper accounts of the estate left by the late Senator Stanford have started speculation as to the value of his endowment of the university which bears his name. Few people have any definite idea of the actual sum of money represented by the property which will come into the possession of the trustees of the university when Mrs. Stanford dies. That property consists of three pieces of land—Palo Alto, 8,400 acres, of which a large portion is under high cul- tivation, being planted in vines which have been found to suit the soil. Grid- ley, 22,000 acres, which have been planted to wheat, and will probably be gradually planted in vines, and Vina, 59,000 acres, of which between 4,000 and 5,000 acres, are planted in vines, Of these three the Vina estate is, of course, the most valuable. There are, in round numbers, 3,000,000 grape vines on the estate, which yielded last year 11,000 tons of grapes. When all the vines now planted are in full bear- ing, the product will be something like 20,000 tons of grapes per year ; and the vineyard is growing from year to year. A large portion of the Vina estate is used for raising horses of all the various breeds, and other portions are employed as cow -pastures, sheep. pastures and hog- pastures. It is difficult to form an adequate idea of the money value of | such land at the present time, and al- most impossible to guess what it will be when a better knowedge of the peculari- ties of the soil and climate and the handling of the grapes will enable Cali- fornia wines to command the same price as the foreign product. But land! which will grow five tons of grapes to alone represents an endowment to the college of $8,000,000 and 2a present in- | come of about half a million a year. This, it will be remembered, is exclu- sive of the Palo Alto property, the Gridley ranch and the fifty-odd thousand acres of land at Vina not planted in vines. If all the land in the three properties were planted in vines it would 1epresent the enormous sum of $200,000,000 and an annual income of over $11,000,000 a year. No university in America bas any- thing like such an endowment. Ac- cording to the college registers the lead- ing universities are endowed as follows: Columbia $13,000,000 Harvard 11,000,000 Yale 10,000,000 University of California 7,000,000 Johns Hopkins 3,000,000 The endowment of the Leland Stan- ford cannot be added to the list, because no one can tell its real amount. The Vina vineyard represents $8,000,000 at present, with a possible extension of over ten times that amount in the early future ; but no one possesess the infor- mation required to appraise Palo Alto or Gridley. It may be said, without fearing contradiction, that its resources are far 1n excess of those of any other educational establishment in the world and that it will never need to deny it- self anything, from a library to an ob- servatory or a laboratory, on the ground of expense. It is quite possible that when the properties which are devoted to its support yield their full income it will find it possible to abolish all fees for tuition and to reduce the charge for board below that which a pupil would cost at home. An Industrial Panic. Panics in this country have generally been brought about by overspeculation, by an undue inflation of the value of stocks upon which more money had been loaned than was warranted by their actual value. In such panics the disturbances and failures, though being of large amounts, were generally limited to speculators of all classes, and, soon after the crash was over, business moved along steadily again. In our recent ex- perience the cause was an entirely dif- ferent one, says the American Econo- mist. We do find, even after months of fi- nancial stringency, that the stringency has not yet been removed. Money has not returned into circulation, but is evi- dently being locked up for safe keeping. There is no renewal of stock purchasers, which always act as a barometer of com- mercial prosperity. On the contrary, the conservative feeling is growing. Trade is contracting. Manufactures have become cautious and show a dispo- sition to close their mills or work on part time. They are very sceptical as to what crders they accept, in some in- stances even demanding cash with the orders. In the face of an expected and prom- ised reduction in the tariff, which will permit the importation of large quanti- ties ot foreign goods similar to those we are now manufacturing, it is but right that they should prepare. The whole trouble hinges upon the tariff, which affects our industries, thus creating an industrial panic. There is butone rem- edy for this condition, namely, an ap- peal, on the part of the people, for the maitenance of the existing tariff as it now stands. This the people most de- mand. “Paddle Your Own Canoe.” Mrs. Sarah T. bolton, the poetess, who died at her home in Indianapolis last week aged about 80 years. Was a native of Kentacky, and wrote her first poem before she was 14 years old, and a povel before she was 16. Her husband, Nathaniel Bolton, was appointed consul to Geneva in 1855, and during their stay abroad she met many literary people. Among her warm friends were Horace Greeley, Bayard Taylor, Nathaaiel P. Willis, Georze P. Morris and Robert Dale Owen. She wrote many popular songs, among them “I Cannot Call Her Moth- er,’ and “Paddle Your Own Canoe.” The theme of the latter was suggested by personal experience. She was State Librarian of Indiana at the time, and being unable to get help to prepare for the opening of the Legislature and the reception of the Governor, went to Cin- cinnati and bought carpet, hemmed it, sewed it together and tacked it to the floor herself. Then she wrote the poem, which hada place in all the school readers a generation ago. The last verse runs : Nothing great is lightly won, Nothing won is lost : Every good deed nobly done Will Fapay the cost. Leave to heaven in humble trust All you will to do ; But i id succeed you must Paddle your own canoe. The refrain of the song has become a “household word.” Pennsylvania Day. Thursday, September 7, has been selected as Pennsylvania day at the World’s Fair. Great preparations are being made for it at the Pennsylvania State building, and as the season is one when cooler weather will doubtless have brought a large attendance which will surely include many Pennsylva- nians, the event ought to be a success. Pennsylvania day at the Centennial Exposition was the ‘‘great day of the feast.” Of course this cannot be expect- ed at Chicago, but it is hoped that all Pennsylvaniars who can make it suit to time their visit to Chicago for that date will turn out on Pennsylvania day and do credit to the Keystone State. The Smallest Picture Ever Made. The smallest painting ever made was the work of the wife of a Flemish artist. It depicted a mill with the sails bent, the miller mounting the stairs with a sack of grain upon his back. Upon the terrace where the mill stood was a cart and horse, and on the road the acre has a definite and well-known value in France and Germany, and there is no reason why it should be dif- ferent here. It is worth as nearly &s possible $2,000 an acre in the Gironde and on the Rhine, and though it could not be sold for any such sum at present in this State, it will earn interest on nition that amount. Thus the Vina vineyard leading to it several peasants were shown. The picture was beautifully finished, and every object was very distinct, and yet it was so amazingly small that its surface could be covered with a grain of corn. ——Let no weeds go to seed. TOA EE EYE PS For and About Women. Lettuce is said to be a sleep producer, ' as is also celery. | Black guipure lace was never more | popular than it is to-day. It is said that alcohol will immediate | ly remove grass stains from any white material. For a burn take sweet oil and lime- water, equal parts ; mix and keep the burn well covered with it. A beautiful sleeve for an evening gown is a three-tiered broad frill, the: last one falling to the elbow. "All traces of mud can easily be re- moved from black clothes by rubbing the spots with a raw potato cut in half, One of the most fashionable combina- tions of the hour is black and cream col. or, which is not only modest and lady- like but universally becoming. Mark Twain’s eldest daughter, Miss Clara Clemens, not yet 20 years of age. has written a play of an allegorical character, which is said to be charming and clever. Skirts are narrower and less triangu. lar in form. Among the very latest productions only muslin gowns are flounced and frilled. Cloth and silk are made up in straight, graceful folds, sel- dom ornamented by the bias bands that were so popular in the spring. Mrs. Sarah B. Cooper, who organized the first kindergarten in San Francisco in 1880, has received more than $300, | 000 to enable her to carry on the work. There are now sixtyfive kindergartens in the city, and more than 10,000 child- ren have been trained in them. For painful sore feet caused by exces. sive walking, long standing or constant movement, as in the use of the sewing machine, a dusting powder of equal parts of equal parts of precipitated chalk and tannin, or the tannin alone, will be. of much service. Apply twice daily af- ter bathing the feet in warm water. As useful as it is fashionable is a box- plaited ruche of black satin ribbon, which is worn as a boa with different costumes. It should be very full to give a‘thick, round effect, and the plaits should be tacked only on one edge in- stead of through the middle in the usual way. Double faced satin rlbbon, three inches wide is required. It seems to be quite a popular fad to. wear in the evening instead of regular hats or bonnets little bandeaux that set upon the hair and end in front with an aigrette and plain loops. Ribbon is generally the material employed by the younger members of society, but jet and metal bands are used with good effect as well by those who consider the ribbon. too youthful a decoration. Next to her collection of belts the young woman who aspires to be a sum. mar girl, indulges in getting together fichus. There are soft, narrow, some- what triangular pieces of white silk mull, with ruffles about four inches wide, to be worn when a rather Quaker- ship effect is to be produced. Thereare little square yokes made of bands of lace insertion, trimmed with a narrow lace ruffle and fastened to a standing collar of lace. There are triangular yokes and there are jabots. There are lace scarfs and point d'esprit scarfs. Someend mn the belt, some flow gracefully down to the foot of the skirt and some end at the chest. But they are all extremely pret- ty. It takes so much ‘0 make a women g ood company. She must be witty and bright and quick and bave a certain smattering of science. philosophy, polite ics, social economics, languages, litera. ture, tennis, base-ball, golf, horses, law billiards, medicine, geography, delsar< tism and Heaven only knows what not, and with all she has to manage them with consummate skill or they are not worth anything, and yet look at a man. If he can say 1n a bright way some of the things he heard at the last minstrel show, laugh a good deal and has the ability to act semi-idiotic, he is consider- ed “the jolliest kind ofa fellow.” He does not have to know a thing. Queer isn’t it ? To say that there is anything wonder- fully new would be misleading, for in August fashions are in that midway state between hay and grass that makes it hard to write even pleasantly of what’ has been, and impossible to chronicle what is to be. However, one can tell of what one sees daily, even though the costumes, wraps and hats thus written about are not up to the very latest notch of fashion. Ata garden party the oth. er day there was a perfectly charming dress made of soft, white silk, studded with yellow sp)ts no larger than a pin’s point. The skirt was double, and both upper and underskirt were accordion plaited and edged with a dozen rows of yellow ribbon. The bodice was also secordion plaited, the sleeves being large puffs to the elbow and from there close-fitting to the wrist. Over the sleeves in epaulette fashion were gather ed flounces of rich lace, and at the neck and waist were a soft collar and belt of plain yellow satin. The girl with the very low forehead and hair well grown on the temples had better turn the hair back directly from the temples and as near up to the part as seems becoming. This will ems phasize the beauty of a wide, low fore. head and keep her from giving weight to the face by hiding the temples or clustering hair about the ears. A girl can choose between suggesting a poodle dog or a Madonna by attention to ber best possibilities in this way. She who has a well shaped head, who cuts her hair to show it and who is now letting it grow, had better not try a knot, because knots must be tidy now, Let her wave and curl ber hair all over, and comb it straight up, softly, from the nape of the neck. The pretty, soft ends will come on the crown of the head perhaps, and there can be disposed with the front hair so that really no one can tell what she has done with her hair, all the little ends that would have spoiled a knot add the character and pretty confusion of this sort of a head dress, and the fore. head may have a central part, and the Madonna temples may be accomplished, too. Only, of course, the hair must be ! well curled so that all the locks cling to each other.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers