——— EE EE eS ES Bellefonte, Pa., May 5, 1893 THE COUNTERSIGN WAS MARY. T'was near the break of day, but still The moon vas shining brightly ; The west wind as it passed the flowers Set each one swaying lightly ; The sentry slow paced to and fro, A faithful night-watch keeping, While in thetents behind him stretched His comrades—all. were sleeping. Slow to and fro the sentry paced, His musket on his shoulder, But not a thought of death oravar Was withtthe brave.young soldier. Ah, no! His heart was far away, here on a Western prairie z A rose-twined cottage stood. ‘That night The countersign was “Mary.” And there his own true love he saw, Her blue eyes brightly beaming, Above them oa her stun-kissed brow, Her curls like sunshine gleaming, And heard her singing, as she churned I'he butter in the dairy, : The song heleved the best. That night The countersign was “Mary.” “Qh, {or one kiss from her!” he sighed. When up the lone road glancing, He spied a form—a little: form, With, faltering steps advancing, And as it peared him silently, ‘He gazed at it in wonder; Then dropped his musket to his hand, i And challenged: “Who goes yonder 2! Still oni it came. -“*Not one step more, Be you maungchild or fairy, iinless you give the counlersign, Halt !"Who:goes there 7 - “Tis Mary,” A swaet voice eried, and in his arms, The girl he'd left behind him, Half fainting fell. O'er many miles She'd bravely toiled to find him. “I heard that you were wounded, dear,” She sobbed : “My heart.was breaking ; 1 could not stay a moment, but All other ties forsaking, I traveled by aay grief made strong, Kind heavenwatching o'er me, Until—unhurt and well > “Yes, love,” “At last you stood before me.” “They told me that I could not pass Thedines to seek my lover: Before day fairly came; but I Pressed on-ere night was over And as I told my name, I found The way. free-as.our prairie,” “‘Beasuse, thank God! to night.” he said, “4¢The countersign is ‘Mary I'” —Margaret Eytinge in Grand Army Gazette. WHAT.THE WIRES SAY. BY FRED MILLER SMITH. It avas not my fauly thet 1 heard what the girl in the next office said to the telephone. «Our place was so small that I had to have the door open to get a draught and keep cool. I think I never keew such a hot summer. And then the girl would talk so loudly. I don’t seeswhy women always talk loud- er through a telephone than a man does, ‘but they do nevertheless. Of course yeu will say that I ought not to have listened ; that I ought’ ito have been intent on my work, and all that; but how. can you expect'a man to be al- ways interested in. a tax duplicate, with ite everlasting capy, copy, with" its Browns ‘and Joneses; its-Schuitzdufters and its "Ven Dugeéns? So!when some- boly in the next office begins to talk to .somebedy in amother office, you've gotito listen, you can’t help it. 1 remember pretty well the first con- versation that was.enything out.of the ordinary. It was a;piping hot day at the last ofiJ une. I had justgottoBak- er inthe: first duplicate, and I waslean- ing back inny chair, soaking the tip of my blotter in the ink well, and try- ing my best to waste ink. The tele phooebell:in the next office rang, -and a man answered. He said, “Well?” “Yes, Ellas bere.” There was a little rustle, and then I heard she gir! say, “Well?” “Yes, it's. me: Is that you, Mary?" “Oh, I’m all right.” “Nos mothing unusual “Have I seen Maud’s.cousin? No, I didn’t tknow she had:e cousin com- ing, . Why?" “Have wou?" i “Where did you see him?” | “Why, wes; fl] try to come up. What sort of a Jeoking person is:he?”’ “Umph! Tdon’t like dark people.” “That's worse. [ absolutely: detest a man who is literary. You always feel as though they were studying you.” 40h yes, I'll «come. Good-by. Is there to be amy ane else there?” 40h! All right. Good-by.” The next morning I arrived at the office a little late, and just as I got in- side the door I heard the gid in the next office say—and she said it so loud that I knew she was telephoning : “I had a lovely time ; but, you know, it was a little anneying--the going: home part.” “I expected to ge with Harry of course, but her cousin asked me in the evening, and I couldn’ refuse. I should think he ought to have knewn better. Harry was a luttle angry over it, and so was I.” “Well, why couldn’t he have gone with one ef the other giels ?” “No; I dried to be very distant, and I let him de most of the talking.” “He does talk well, doesn't he?” “Maud says he expects to go back to college in the fall.” “No, I hate picnics; besides, I can’t get off. Are you?” “To call? Why, certainly. I couldn’t avoid it without snubbing him and I couldn’ do that even if he did force himself where he wasn’t wanted.” “Don’t be a goose!” and then she put up the 'phone with a bang and rung off, all in the same movement. About a week after, justas I had got settled to an afternoon’s work, 1 saw, the girl come in. . She was a little late, and had hardly time to take off her coat and hat before I heard her call 196. She said: “Hello! I want to speak to Mary.” “Is that you Mary ?" “] want Mary.” “Hello! What time are you going to that picnic to morrow ?” “Do you mind if I go with you ?” “I didn’t intend to at first, but I've changed my mind.” “Why, the idea! Of course not. I met him on the street on my way down and, naturally we walked down togeth- er.) “Don’t be sarcastic, but honestly, ! 1 | | i “Oh, well, if you won't believe me, I i can’t make vou.” | | to the station ?” “Then you'll stop for se on the way “Good-by. About seven o'clock. Yes.” It was some two weeks later. I was in the “T's” 1n Clay township, and I was hurrying to get through. After I get on the down grade of the alphabet, 1 always work faster. But'T heard the bell ring, and the girl in the next office called 196 and Mary. I couldn’t hear what she -said at Grst, but pretty soon she raised her voice. “Do you know, I got myself into the least bit of trouble about that piano re- cital.” “It was all a misunderstanding, and I was awfully sorry. but there wasn’t any reason why Harry should be so | vexed over it. “Why, you see, Harry asked me the week before to go with him, and I made a mistake about the day, and re- 4 tuged, because I thought we were to bave a dinner on that night. After 4 wards ‘I found out my mistake, and when Clarence—" “Mr, Stevens, Maud’s cousin.” “—when he asked me to go with } him, L.said [.would, and I did, Har ry heard aboutit, and it made him an- gry. He thought that since I refused him, I ought not to have gone atall.” “Oh, I haven't seen him; I theard that he said that.” “Oh yes, of course you take his part. { didn't mean to slight him, but if he wants to take it in'that way, he.ean, that's all. He ought to know that he's not tied to my apron-strings.” “What would you do?’ -4No ; I'll do nothing of the sort. He can stay away if he wants to.” “You're invited to Mand’s for tea to- night, aren’t you ?”’ “Oh, I don’t know; two or three weeks, I guess. He's been offered a position on a newspaper, and he is ¢on- sidering.whether to take that or go on with ‘his. college course’ “Oh, .come don't make fun of me. Certainly I like him better than I did at first. He's such a fascinating talk- er.) - a “Then I'll see, you at Maud’s.” The next afternoon 1 had gone into the next office to attend to some mat- ters, and as Ella was alone, I stopped girl, is Ella, and rather nice to chat with. IT hadn't been there more than two minutes when that infernal tele phone broke in on us. Ella answered it, “Well, who is it 2” and then she said, “Oh!” rather joyfully, I thought. She looked around at me as though she wished I wasn!t there, and I took the hint and sauntered out. As I went, I heard her say “What to-night! I thought you were going to stay a month longer.” “Oh, you're going there, are you? Well, I'm afraid—"" “Perhaps you might walk down and meet me; 1 leave the office at five.” “It’s just twenty minutes of three by this clock.” ! I'll leave just at five by this clock.” “Yes. Goodby.” Early the next morning I heard the head man of their office call up “20— the Business College.” “J want you to send me the homeli- est girl in your institution,” said he. “Six dollars a week.” “Eight to five.” : “My office girl eloped lastnight with a young fellow she has known for a month. Good girl, but a trifle too ro- mantic. Send me the homeliest one you can find, and be quick about it.” Then he rung aff, and came into our office to talk it over, and I seemed to bear the girl say, “He is such a fascinating talker,” Visiting Women in Chicago. As the time for the opening of the Columbian Exposition draws near, many people are asking each other such questions as these: How are the people (especially women) to arrange in the World's Fair city? Do yon know anything about the climate? What is the nature of street travel, ete., etc. ¥ All persons intending to visit the ex- position—and particularly women com- ing alone—should know just where they are going to liye before starting for Chieago, as a matter of economy, comfort and safety. Although there are said to be many more than fifteen hundred hotels here with accommodations for 500,000 guests, it is not wise to trust to chance or Juck ; and realizing this, the direct ors of the fair have created what they call “A Bureau of Public Comfort,” for the purpose of securing to visitors rooms in reputable and accessible ho- tels, boarding-houses, and private dwell: inge, ‘Any inquiries sent to “The Bu- reau of Public Comfort, Rand-MeNal- ly Building,” at Chicago, will receive prompt and kindly atteotion. The larger hotels, like the Auditori- um and Grand Northern, are only ac- cessible to the rich, but the accommo: dations offered the public at moderate prices are phenomenal, It would be impossible to tell in this paper of the many inexpensive World's Fair hotels where women alone, elder- ly ‘people, and families of moderate means may be comfortably and pleas. antly entertaived, but the few I men: tion are a key noté to the many. “The De Soto Club,” under the per- sonal management of two of the lead: ing men of Chicago, offers inexpensive, safe, and comfortable accommodations to its guests. The building has ‘our hundred rooms, is fire proof, lighted by electricity, and newly and neatly fur nished. Prices range from one to three dollars a day for each person, but if two women occupy ong room $1.50 is asked. A certificate of membership is necessaldy, and costs five dollars: This certificate is simply a guarantee of good faith, as the membership money is now, he really didn’t have a thing to | counted as room-rent upon the arrival do with my going.” of each guest. Meals] are extra, but Q to talk to her, for she's’ a' right pretty | foraccommodations during their stay: prices will be more than moderate, and the fare good. Applications can be made to Chapmen Brothers, 71 and 73 West Monroe Street, Chicago. The Hotel Epworth is Methodist headquarters. lt is situated across the street from the fair grounds. The building is four story, 280 feet long by 178 feet deep, and is finely equipped in every particular. person costs two dollars, which must accompany the application. = This membership fee does not apply to room rental. No fee is required for child- ren under fifteen years of age. Each membership entitles the member to ac- commodation for a period vot to exceed fourteen days, which may be divided through the fair monthe to suit the member's pleasure or convenience, The rates for each persoa are a dollar a day, and two persons are expected to occupy the same room. A dining- room seating comfortably 1000 people is located on the grouad-floor-of the hotel, and it is believed that one per- son can live comfortably for $1.25 a day for meals. Applications to be made to Carlton N. Gary, Room 815, No. 100 Washington Street, Chicago. Beyond the fair grounds to the south is the Hotel Endeavor, the headquar- ters of the Christian Endeavor Associa- tion. This building is large and at- tractively situated on the lake ehore. The prices are from one to three dollars a day, with a regisier fee of three dol Jars. This address is also 100 Wash- ington Street, but the room is 1301. The Family Dormitory Association has a large two-story frame building, seven blocks from entrance to the fair. An individual share of stock costs ten dollars, and entitles the owner to twen- ty days’ occupancy of one room. This does not include meals or bath. This stock is not assessable, but is transfer able. There is a dining-room where meals are served to guests at the fol- lowing prices; breakfast twenty-five cents ; dinner, fifty. A luncheon will be put up in a tin box, consisting of sandwich and pie and cake, for ten cents, This stock is rapidly been tak- en up, and after April 1st different arrangements will be made. The address—Family Dormitory Associa- tion, Rand-Mc¢Nally, Building, Chicago. The getting to ard from the fair grounds trom any part of the city will be 'an' easy and a reasonable matter. Surface and elevated ‘cars (with neces- sary transfers) ask five cents ; the Illin- ois Railroad, twenty-five for round trip, and the boats the same. The le- gal cab rate is fifty cents a mile, or a fraction thereof, for one or two pasgen- gers, When vehicles are hired by the hour the charge is not to exceed sev- enty-five cents, and twenty cents for each ‘quarter of ‘an hour additional; bunt it will be wise for every passenger to arrange with the driver the rate he is to ask before taking the cab. Now as to the weather. We Chica- go people think our summer and au- umn the loveliest time of the whole year, and the majority of people for that reason choose to take their vaca- tions in the spring and winter. The average weather for a period of years, from 1871 to 1891, as given by the Uni- ted States Weather Bureau tor Chica- go, is as follows : ‘Mean temp. Cloudless. Cloudy. for 18 years, May....34 per. cent :28 per. cent. 56.4° June....26 “ 26 * 66° July... 41 * j1¢ 720. Aug....39 13 ie Sep. 1030 0", 2 iy 64° + Oct. 32 se 51 $ 533° It does not seem as though our visit- ors would have eyes, ears, or thoughts for anything outside the fair grounds; bat, if they do care to look about Chi- cago, there is much to see and enjoy. The.drives are particularly plentiful. Our system of parks covers 1874.61 acres, and, with the boulevards, encir- cles the entire city. The grandest drive in Chicago is along the north shore from the beginning of the Lake Shore Drive through Lincoln Park, and on to the Sheridan Drive, which, as a boule vard, runs beside the lake for twenty- five miles, ending at Fort Sheridan, a military post of the United States. The indications are that May, the opening month will be the least crowd: ed one at the fair. June will bring a throng, and so cu, probably, until late October. Every month has its con: gresses ; and people who are interested in any given line of thought would do well to look up the dates of these, and time their coming accordingly. To one who has watched with interest this vast scheme of entertainment from its be- ginning there seems no reason to appre- hend any personal discomfort for the throng of guests. Consideration and thoughtfulness are manifest in every department of the World's Fair man- agement, so that those who wisely make every arrangement that is possi- ble before starting for Chicago may safely anticipate a jolly good time.— Lavra DayToN FusseNneN in Harper's Bazar. ——The Fishermen of the Susqueha- nna are wondering how it is that the shad which are planted in that river by the Government Fish Commission grow up into herring. Below Harve de Grace on last Wednesday 400,000 hermng were caught at one haul of the séine, the seine being about three-quar- ters of a mile long. It took all day to land the fish. At another fishing float 50,000 herring were taken at a single haul. This is like a return to an earlier day when herring were so plentiful at at the head of the Chesapeake that they were spread over the land for fertilizing purposes. —— Danger in Licking Postage Stamps.—1It is no new thing that stamps and envelopes should be blamed as a cause for numerous petty illnesses which joccur to those who constantly use them, says “The Lancet.” The connection between a habit of licking the gummed surface and irritated tongue is not en- tirely imaginary. the mucous membrane with an adhesive courage abrasion of the former. Another element of danger exists in the well- known impurity of office gum. It is apply them to a wound, Sy A certificate for one | The mere contact of . substance, if often repeated, must en-. usually as easy as it isadvisable to avoid : licking stamps, and it is never safe to ! A Day at Jackson Park. | . | How lo Get a Fleeting Glimpse of the Great | Show and Lay the Foundation For a More Through Inspection of Its Marvels—An Even | ing Visit. | Can onesee the World's fair in one {day ? Well, he can see a great deal of t it, much more than one would think. | In truth, a very good general view can | be taken in a day including the evening, | though of course there are many build- | ings the details of each of which would | occupy many days. Here is the itiner- i ary for one day : | First, it is to be a bright and pleasant- {ly warm May day, and so the first visit should by all means be made by water. We will start at the Van Buren street dock. The World's Fair Steamship company, four big boats running between Van Buren street and the World's fair grounds—vessels amply able to carry 15,000 passengers every hour, and if a crush comes the company operates enough smaller craft to double this ca- pacity, not to mention the number of people the independent lines will carry. We are taking the Dest possible method of seeing the buildings of the «White City.” Not only can the very best view of the fair in its entirety be had from the water—that is, from out here on the lake—but every one of the most important buildings is to be seen to best advantage either from the lake or from the canals and ponds inside the grounds. From the water, too, every one of the larger and more important buildings is immediately accessible. The whole fair was built with these ends in view, and the plans have been magnificently carried out. That's why we are going by water to get our first view of the exposition. Many will debark atthe North pier, but let us go down to the farther pier and begin at Alpha—that is, the great peristyle representing Alpha. boats and yachts canland as well as steamers. On the south side of the pier as we land you can see the government's model battleship. Once ashore, we'll take a round on the movable sidewalk. It’s nearly half a mile long, and we can get a magnificent view of the fair build- ings and Lake Michigan as well from it. Now, if only this plan could be worked in cities, what a lot. of shoe leather we might save ! Out there is the anchorage for big vessels. Closer 1u, the pleasure yachts and smaller craft will anchor—that is, they will tackle themselves up to those anchored buoys you see out there. At night the buoys willbe illumined by electric lights. There is an anchorage also for visiting yachts and the like up at Van Buren street pier. First to, be glanced through are the Casino and Music hall. The next thing isto try a boat—a gondola, of course, for the novelty of the thing. This is the main landing for the pleasure craft in the grounds on the south side of the basin, just north of the Agricultural building. ~ The electric and steam launches have to make regular round trips, once every hour, coyering the3 mile course. There are so many of them —40 ‘electric and 24 steam launches— that they bave to be kept moving with some regularity, excepting. of course, the steam launches in their afternoon and evening trips out into the lake. Maybe we’ll go outin one before we get through. They start from this landing. We first float by the Agricultural building. Our gondolier (he’s genuine —a real Ttalian) must keep close into shore while we take a good look at the buildings as we pass them. Here we turn into the South canal and view the west end of the Agricultural building. You will see the annex presently. The Agricultural building is 800 feet long and 500 feet in width, and the annex is 300 by 550 feet—a matter of 13 acres covered by these two buildings. These are the electric fountains at the lower end of South canal. They are among the great attractions at night. Over there, past the colonnade, is the stock pavilion, and beyond that are the exhibit yards. Here on the west side of the canal is Machinery hall, next to the Manufact- ures building the largest structures on the grounds It runs with its annex nearly 1,400 feet east and west. We will geta good look at it in a few mom- ents, when we make a halt in the west end of the basin. Here we are at the MacMonnies foun- tain, That is the Administration build- ing beyond. In the square to the north of it are the Electricity and the Mines and Mining buildings. You can see two sides of the Electricity building, but only the south end of the Mines and Mining. These twostructures are about of a size, the former covering 5.5 acres and the latter 5 6. You see the south end of the Manu- factures building: We'll go up through North canal now and take a goed look at 1t broadside. Yes, it is a pretty good sized building—something very close to a third of a mile long. It is 787 by 1,637 feet and covers 30} acres. Up bere, past the Manufactures, is the Government building, which occu- pies 8.8 acres. We are passing up the lagoon now, between the wooded island and the east shore. We must take a walk about the island before we are through—now through this islet at the right, leading cut to the lake. Here on our left is the Fisheries building. It, with its two annexes spreading out on cupies nearly 100,000 feet of ground spuce. Beyond this, on theleft, right, and be- fore ug, are the fire and guard station, the clambake, the light house exhibit, weather bureau station, and so on. On the left are some of the foreign buildings among them those of Great Britain, Russia, France Germany and Sweden. up into North pond. We repass the Fisheries building and find ourselves in the lagoon again, and out of this into the inlet leading to the pond. Skirting along the shore, we pass the buildings of some of the South American republics and find ourselves before the great Art galleries. West of the pond are a num- ber of state buildings, those of Ohio, In- diana, and Wisconsin in the foreground. Ample provision has been made for the fine arts exhibit, nearly six acres being devoted to the gallery and annexes. Here we are before the Illinois State building the largest state building of them all. Tt is a spendid structure, which owns the dock, has | Pleasure | each side of it like a pair of wings, oc-! Now we will turn around and paddle | chi with a ground area of over three acres and a height of 234 feet. After a gocd look at illinois’ great building w> find our way back into the lagoon hugging the north and west shores. To the west fronting the lagoon, is the Women’s building, an affair which eovers over 77,000 square feet. The ladies ought to feel proud of this building, particularly as it was designed by a woman—DMiss Hayden of Boston. The Women’s plaisance, which you will see later. Here.are two or three unique small buildings—notably the offices of Puck and the White Star steamship line—and at the north end of the island are ths Japanese buildings and gardens. Now we come to, the vast building devoted to horticulture, the eastern frontage ot which is toward the lagoon. Horticulture is well provided for in the matter of quarters. That building 1s 1,000 feet in length and covers neariy six acres. Just beyond is Choral hail, and the Transportation building, half of which latter has a water frontage. The Transportation building covers about the same area as the Horticultural. Here we are at the south end of the lagoon, alongside the funny little island with the hunter's camp on it, and io front of the Mines and Electricity build- ings. | and into the basin, and our first} trip is completed so far as a saperficial inspec- tion of the buildings is concerned. Now we will walk over to the Casino, get some luncheon and then inspect that spendid peristyle I have talked so much about. and the “White City’ at the fair grounds in all their beauty. As we glide along the city front we note in turn the Auditorium, the great clock tower, the immense and brilliantly ‘lighted hotels and then the grounds. There are thousands of electric lights in and around the buildings and about the grounds. Every light has been placed so it will shed its light to the best ad- vantage despite the prodigality of distri- bution. Hear the bands. There are a number of them, not to mention Mr. Thomas’ great orchestra. Now the them are sent out in dongolas every night to furnish music. All first class talent too. Take a glance or two at the scene on the water. Isn’t it cheerfnl ? How many boats? I haven't an idea —hundreds of them anyway. All right. We'll go in and paddle round awhile in a gondola, hear the bands play and so on. Then we'll come out into the lake in a launch and study this scene again. Youcan lovk at it for hours? I should think so. Another day we’ll go down by rail and take a the buildings sfoot. A Deadly Trade. The Story of the Hunan Beings Who Frequent the lkali Works. Fortnightly Review. The alkali works go on all the year round, day and night, Sundays and week days, and St Helen's and Widnes are the chief seat of the manufacture. If you havea fancy for knowing how that part of the world lives which gerves the industry that Lord Beacons. field used as his trade barometer, you will do well to gain admittance to the s range and lurid scene where the pro- digious processes are carried or. By the glow of furnaces and the wavering iight of an occasional gas jet, ture of nncoutn buildings, gaunt frame- works of timber, ominous looking lead chambers looming overhead and a gen- eral contusion of towers, platforms, re- volving and stationary furnaces, great cauldrons where the caustic glows a sullen red, threatening looking tanks full ot corrosive liquids and other strange half animated monsters which beset you as you pick your way along narrow planks or up stairs half eaten away by acid. There are figures moving about the place, wheeling barro s up the plank, standing at the furnace mouth, taming the white hot mass within, wielding huge ladles at the caustic pots, strain- ing and laboring in a terrific heat and glare and amid sickening fumes. A man steps back from the furnace now and again and lowers the muffler from his mouth to gasp more freely in the chill air, and you can see his tace arms aad chest shining with the sweat. Figures are to be seen by day which are scarcely recognizable as men, with great goggles over their eyes and huge protuberances of flannel corded over their wouths aud necks. These are the men who pack the bleaching pow- der. The powder packer, his feet en- cased in thick wooden clogs and his leg in paper gaiters, steps into the chlorine chanber. and shovels the bleaching powder into the cask, and presently shuffles out again and una- lashes his swathings, vasping as though at death’s door. There are some 15, 000 men in the employe of the United Alkali company, including special | “process men’ and laborers. The story of their daiiy and nightly | toil is told by the faces and forms of | the worn dejected men who pass you {on the street. by the deaths from ‘respiratory deseases which carry off the strongest men before their time, by the evidence of horrible suffering trom constant contact with the biting lime, by teeth rotted away oy the salt cake fume, by scars and sometimes blind: ! ness from caustic burning, by vitriol burns and by the deadiy nausea from the gas inhaled, and the recurring ex- " haustion brought on by fearfully pro- tracted toil. CS — Tree Planting. Make holes large enough to give the roots of every tree planted free, full room to stretch out, and grow as nature in- tends they sh=ll increase in vigor and vitality. Many people plant trees in holes which render it necessary to twist and bend the roots tightly together, cramping them in such a way as to re- tard their growth. This is the reason why so many newly planted trees die where they are placed, a discouragement to those who do the planting, but no fault of the dealer who sold the tree. building is at the east end of Midway ' which lies between the Horticultural Another trip down North canal But night is the time to see city front | singers take a hand. Several parties of jaunt around the grounds and through you make ou’, bit by bit, a rough pic’ The World of Wome 1. The lon: vamped buttoned boot, with perforated patent leather tip, is the ac- cepted style for walking or carriage wear. Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe’s general health is as good as it was ten years ago. Ske is happy and cheerful, buther mind seems incapable of any sustained effort. If you want to be really swell” get a black instead of a blue serge skirt and jacket to wear with the silk waists, have the coat fitted close from the waist to the bust, with wide revers turned back to show the cool, pretty shirt-—no trim- ming on the skirt, just a deep hem, While contrasting combinations in green, lavender, purple, and pale brown will be the leading teature for next au- tumn, the indications are that the above shades and emeral with a light yellow, . violet and carmine, dahlia and mahog- any will be in vogue next winter, be- | sides dark gray, royal blue, sapphire and reddish effects are sure to meet with gen- al approval. A pretty dress of black bengaline is arranged with a plain skirt trimmed around the hem with three narrow crossway flounces, each one set rather widely apart from the other. The high | bodice has full sleeves and revers of | myrtle green velvet, and to wear with this as a complete walking costurne, is & | pretty green velvet cape, finished with a | short shoulder cape, very fully plaited. Don’t be deceived by the new skirts. The flare is not secured half so mueh by crinoline or other stiffening as you may think. It is mostly in the cut. They are five yards around at the bottom and then are gored to fit the hips. That is the secret. The back breadths are of course gored differently to bring about the folds that appear there. As a mat- ter of fact, while the unskillful dress- maker may resort to stiffening, the clev- er one does it all with ber shears. The home dressmaker need not despair. There are so many different new skirts that if you merely accomplish a skirt that is fuller than last year’s and if you have vour skirts big enough you are all right. The present style is much more easily with in the reach of the amateur than were the tailor made and bell skirt. Furbelow, ruffles and detail are always easier to accomplish than severi- ty, plainness and fit. The first three components make up the new mode a good deal more than ecrinoline. So don’t be discouraged. The choice of a pair of gloves is not infrequently a matter of no little impor- tance, and we are very often asked what kind of gloves should be worn at a wed- ding, or at an afterncon reception, or a concert, and what color gloves should te worn with a blue, green, or mauve dress, and so on. Now, there is no particular role for any such occasions, nor is there any necessity for matching one’s gloves to each dress one wears. Neutral tints in medium and light shades are now fashionable in gloves to wear with any toilet. A little while ago pearl-gray was the unique color 1n vogue ; since then we have had all shades of reddish brown, from terra cotta to duck’s feet; now the tint in favor is biscuit. Glazed kid gloves may be worn with evening dresses, as well as the plain un- glazed Suede gloves ; but the latter are always softer and more closely fitting ; they are, unfortunately, more quickly soiled, and do not bear cleaning well. The colors most worn for evening gloves are, for Suede kid, biscuit, lemon, white and cream; for glazed kid, bis- cuit, pearl-gray and cream. These gloves are made very long (from 16 to 24 buttons), they come almost to the edge of the short sleeve of low dresses, to prevent them slipping down ; a piece of elastic is sewn on the inside round the top. For the town, glazed kid are consid- ered more practical than Suede gloves, though the latter are more elegant, but they do not keep fresh so long. Saxe kid gloves are durable, and have a very pleasant natural odor. The tints given tor evening gloves are also those mostly selected for walking or visiting gloves; some of the varied shades of tan color are also fashionable. Even of a morn- ing, with a neat tailor-made costume, light colored gloves are in good taste, cut of course, if the toilet is neglige they would look out of place and darker ones had best be adopted, such as black, brown, or iron gray. Men do not hke strong minded, in- dependent women, but they do thor- oughly admire one who, though she is wise enough to let them see how grand and great she thinks them, is not one whit overawed by their superiority. Just as soon as a girl shows fear or em- barrassment in the presence of a member of the opposite sex she casts a damper on uny friendly relation in the future, and he 13 glad to get away as soon as possible. A woman need not be flippant to show that she is not afraid, but there are many little actions that prove she is respectful yet at the same time thor- oughly aware that the superior mascu- line being. who in all probability is a good deal more atraid of her and her little feminine ways than she is of him. Notwithstanding all cynical assertions to the contrary, there are some most de- lighiful friendships existing between men and women that have in them no thought of love. There is a mental congeniality us well us an attraction of opposites that proves very delightful to many a man. They enjoy conversing with bright, clever women who have their own views on topics of the day, differing so largely in their feminine expression from the masculine arguments heard at clubs or in offices. A man delights in the con- t-ast ; the keen, clever insight of a com- panionable woman and the ready wit punctuates her conversation is to him as champagne compared with porter when he thinks of some of the prosy al- beit truthful sentiment issuing from the lips of members of his own sex. Such women are the equals, and in muny cases the superiors, of hundreds of male associates, yet they never act as though they knew their own worth. | Therein lies their greatest charm. It takes a clever woman to combine the | strong mental qualities that lend such | piquancy to her every word with a man- { ner not humble, yet so far from being aggressive that & man feels flattered rather than outdone in every sentence she utters.