: . ee _— ABE no r Bellefonte, Pa., March 10, 1893 IT IS NOTHING. “It is nothing to me,” the beauty said, With a careless toss of her pretty head ; The man is weak, if he can’t refrain, From the cup you say is fraught with pain.” 1t was something to her in after years, When her eyes were drenched with burn- ing tears, : As she watched in lonely grief and dread, And startled to hear a staggering tread. “It is nothing to me,” the rother said, I have no fear that my boy will tread The downward road of sin and shame, And crush my heart and darken his name.” It was something to her when heronly son, From the path of right was early won, And madly cast in the flaming bow! A ruined body and ship-wrecked soul. “It is nothing to me" the merchant said, As over the ledger he bent his head ; “I’m busy to-day with tare and tret, And have no time to fume and fret.” It was something to him when over the wire, A message came from a funeral pyre— A drunken conductor had wrecked the train And Jie wife and child were among the slain. “It is nothing to me” the young man cried, In his eye was a flash of scorn and pride; “] heed not the dreadful things ye tel I can rule myself I know full well!” 'Twas something to him when in prison he la; The victim of drink, life ebbing away; As 3S Dhanght of his wretched chil wife, And the mournful wreck of his wasted life. and “1t is nothing to me,” the voter said; “The party’s loss is my greatest dread—" Gave his vote to the liquor trade, Though hearts were crushed and drunk- ards made, It was something to him in after life, When his daughter became a drunkard’s wife, And her hun ry children cried for bread, And trembled to hear their father's tread. Is it nothing for us to idly Sleep, While the cohorts of death their vigils keep, Alluring the young and thoughtless in— And grind in our midst a grist of sin ? It is something—yzs all for us to stand, And clasp by faith our Savior’s hand— To learn to labor, live and fight, On the side of God and zisnggless right. Francis E. W. Hai per. INAUGURATION DAYS. Facts About our Presidents.—Sizteen Were In- augurated on Maych 4, Two on March 5 and One on. April 30.—Curious Facts Tending to Create Superstition. There is an old story to the effect that Benjamin Franklin selected the 4th of March for inauguration day be- cause in the next two centuries it would fall on Sunday less often than any other day in the year, and this statement has crept into a few works meant to be historical. It is, however, but ove of the many cases, like those of Niobe and Lot's wite, in which a fact has gradually given rise toa leg- end to account for the fact. It is a pleasing story, but there is no proof of 1t whatever, and there is almost coo- clusive proof to the contrary. It is certain that Franklin bothered himself very little about the distine- tion between sacred and secular days, and disregarded it altogether in his daily life ; that the convention of 1787 did not fix the day, and in tact could have no ineans of foreseeing when it would be possible to name a day, and that when it became possible by the adhesion of the niuth state to the con- stitution the Contederation congress then in session fixed the day by a sort of accident. And yet itis a fact, and a very curious fact indeed, that the day does very rarely fall un Sunday, though at first view it would seem that this day or any other day would do so one time in seven. The first day set was Wednesday, and the years 1800 and 1900 are, con trary to the four year rule, not leap years. The first day was just eleven years before the close of the century, and thus it has resulted that the day has fallen on Sunday but three times in the first hundred years and will not again fall on Sunday till 1917. There after it will eo fall only in 1945 and 1974 in the next century, the result be- ing such a conjunction only gix times in the first two centuries of the govern- ment’s existence, or once in thirty-three instead of once in seven years. Though we have had twenty-three presidents, but nineteen were formally inaugurated, and but sixteen of these on the 4th of March, if the first time only be counted, for Washington took the oath the first time on April 30, and Taylor and Hayes were inaugurated on Monday, March 5. The same is true of Monroe's second inauguration, but his first was on the regular day. The second Adams, Pierce and Garfield were inaugurated on Friday. Five in- augurations have been on Monday and five on Wednesday, and the coming one will make five on Saturday, no other day in the week having had more than three. The shortest service was that of W, H. Harricon—one month—and the longest that of Grant, who held the of- fice eight years and a day, unless in- deed we adopt the facetious suggestion of the Whigs that Jackson really gov- erned during the “nominal administra: tion of Van Buren.” Itis also worth noting that of the eight presidents re- elected Jackson, Lincoln and Grant were the only ones whose second inaug- urations were celebrated with much dis- play, though it is certain that Cleve- land’s will soon furnish a fourth case, and a notable one. In truth, there are many things in the latter's career which might justify a little superstition in his case. No other American, save possibly Washington and Jackson, has had such an extraordinary personal triumph. As a matter of fact, the first Wed- nesday in March, 1789, fell on the 4th, and three years later that date was fixed upon for all time, But there is nothing extant to indicate any special reason for it. In truthit is at almost the worst season that could have been selected, and as the matter is entirely within the descretion of congress, and Washington was inaugurated the first time on April 30, the argument for a change to that date is strong. Every reader has had enough on the first inauguration of Washington. Suf- fice it to repeat that the day was five, that Chancellor Robert R. Livingston, ot New York, administered the oath in the presence of some 40,000 people, and that the centennial celebration of that event in New York city in 1889 was a really wonderful success, on which oc- casion there were more people in the city than at any other time in its his- tory. It was positively the only time, said the oldest inhabitants, when “the city crowd was completely over- whelmed and lost in the country crowd.” His second inauguration, in Philadelphia, Monday, March 4, 1793, presented an almost ludicrous contrast. He took the oath in the senate cham- ber in the presence of both houses of congress and made a brief address, and if anything unusual occurred the jour- nals of the day failed to mention it. ' Nor was the inauguration of John Adams on Saturday, March 4, 1797, a particularly impressive affair. Thom: as Jefferson took the oath as vice pres- ident in the senate chamber, pro- nounced a high compliment on Mr. Adams, who bad just vacated the chair, and then led the way to the chamber of the house, where the inaug: uration took place. Almost any wit- ness who has given any account of it says that all eyes were directed to Washington, and as Jefferson stood on the other side, a rather tall and com- manding figure, the new president really seemed overshadowed. He spoke at some length, eulogized Washington very highly, denied, quite emphatically that he favored a stronger government than that ordained in the constitution and pronounced the oath after the chief justice of the United States. Adams is distinguished in our histo- ry for many things, and one is, unfort- unately for being the first president who refused to participate in the inaugura. tion of his successor. It was indeed a very trying occasion for him. There have been some heated campaigns since, but none in which personal ani- mosities played so great a part asin 1800. Nowadays partisans call each other “rebels,” “traitors’ and ‘‘enemies of American industry,” “thieves” and “moaopolists” or “cranks” bnt it is chiefly Pickwickian. In 1800 they really believed it. So when Jefferson was elected by the house on the thirty-sixth ballot and after a desperate stuggle a deep groan ran through the Federalist party, and Adams left Washingron early in the morning of March 4, 1801. This bad example was followed by his son 1n 1829 and by Johnston in 1869. It is rather singular there should have been so much dispute about the facts of Jefferson’s inauguration. It is clearly proved that he intended to go in the usual state, with a carriage and six horses, but the carriage ordered was not completed in time, Adams re- fused the courtesy, as aforesaid, and so Jefferson, the attendant marshal and a tew others made the trip on horseback. His second inauguration had more style about it. On Saturday, March, 4, 1809, Madison took the oath in the hall ot the house, and the only fact about it which excited much comment was that he was ‘clad in a suit of ele: gant black cloth entirely of American manufacture.” The next four inaungurations were conventional in the extreme. That of 1821 was on Monday, March 5, as then, for the first time, the regular day tell on Sunday. John Quincy Adams revived much of the old and solemn ceremonial, but with him it ended, as the country had now outgrown English and colonial forms. The fact that three presidents died on Independence Day isindeed extraor- dinary. Ae but twenty-one have died the chances of oue’s death on that day are not quite as one in eighteen, of two still fewer, and of three not one in hun- dreds. But that two should die on the same day and a third but five years later, and two the signers of the Decla- tion, the chances are so remote as to be scarcely calculable. Yet it hap pened. Vice President Hamlin also died on that day. Nearly all the presi dents have lived to an advanced age, as it was natural they should be men of great vitality and temperate lives to attain the honor. John Adams was the oldest, lacking but a few weeks of ninety-one, while, omitting Lincoln, killed at fifty-four, and Garfield, killed within a few weeks of fifty, the young- est dying was Polk at fitty-four. Another curious fat is that, includ- ing the presidents of the senate who succeeded to the functions of the office, there have been more vice presidente than presidents—to wit, though Clin- ton, Tompkins, Calhoun and King each served in two administrations. From Adams the father to Adams the son, as aforesaid, the inaugurations were mild affairs, but Jackson came in with a breeze, and the occasion was in- deed breezy. He set the example of taking the cath on and delivering the inaugural from the east front of the Capitol, and then, making all reason- able deductions for the partisan spite of those who described it, the scene which followed did indeed “beggar descrip- tion,” The largest crowd seen in Washinton down to that time was in attendance, and the mud was, in south- western phrase, “half bootleg deep,” on Pennsylvania avenue. Through that mud the crowd rushed tothe White House, where all the doors were thrown open and punch served out in barrels, buckets, tubs and even, go the opposition said, wash basins. Every room in the house was crowded, and men with heavy and muddy boots stood on the finest chairs and sofas to see what was going onin front. Lamps and furniture were broken, and punch spilled till the house was a wreck. Soon after there was a levee av which a cheese weighing 1,400 pounds (a present to Jackson) was cut up and and served. The struggle for pieces resulted in a smash of furnitare ; liquor was spilled and cheese trodden into the carpet, while ladies held dainty handkerchiefs to their noses and foreign diplomats | Postmaster General in 1883, succeeded looked on in undisguised horror. Daniel looked like a Republican palace taken by siege and sacked by the victorious enemy, but Benton. Felix Grundy and other men of that class thought it just as well to “let the boys haye their way once in four years.” It was the last scene of the sort, though Jackson's sec- ond inauguration also attracted a large crowd. The next inauguration—of Van Buren in 1837—was a compara- tively tame affair, but in 1841 the Whigs honored Harrison with a grand rally. Thence to Lincoln each inaug- uration was much like its predecessor, and none presented features of unusual interest. The crowds, however con- tinued to increase, and the procession which followed Buchanan reached nearly from the Capitol to the White House. This was the end of the old regime. Little as the great men of the day sus- pected it, the old republic was. practi cally, soon to pass away, and be re- placed by one ot vastly increased and centralized powers. In all the great speeches and state papers down to 1861 one finds the federal union referred to indifferently as the Union or the con- federacy. Thus President Pierce in his inaugural said, “The security and repose of this confederacy forbid inter- ference or colonization by any foreign power.” And President Buchanan in his said, “Let every American reflect upon the terrific evils which would re- sult from disunion to every portion of the confederacy.” What a storm such use of that word would now raise! The impending change was indicated on March 4, 1861, by the first military display of real consequence at an in- auguration. There were sharpshooters on the housetops along the avenue as Mr. Buchanan and Mr. Lincoln rode slowly to the Capitol; there were squads of cavalry to guard the street crossings, and squads of infantry along the route ; there were trusty riflemen at the upper windows of the Capitol and artillery to the right of the east front, commanding the crowd to which the new president spoke, It wa. a sad presage. General Scott was savagely critcised for these arrange- ments, but subsequent events justified him. Since that date the military has formed an important part ofevery in- auguration, and at Grant's second in- duction, March 4, 1873, the display was such as to excite the admiration of foreigners accustomed to the finest exhibits of London, Paris and Berlin. But it was fatal to some of the partici- pants and to many spectators. The day has a bad preminence as the most inclement of any inauguration day in our history. From dawn till dark a northwest wind so keen and cold that it seemed to chill even the bones blew without an instants’s ces- gation. Scores of soldiers and sailors who had to stand long in place were prostrated in consequence, while spec- tators suffered so much that the aver- age mortality of the city for a short time after is said to have been notably increased. Far ctherwise was it at the inaugu- ration of Clevland, on which occasion by far the greatest crowd ever seen there was assembled in Washington. Correspondents celebrated the occasion in many hundred columns. Citizens of Washington still tell with glee how the visitors sat the night through on chairs, on benches in the parks and on the steps of public buildings, as the weather was fine and all the hotels overcrowded, and railroad managers tell with pardonable pride how they got the hundreds of thousands to their homes in farily good seacon. Bat all these and other incidents of recent in- angurations are still fresh'in the pub- lic mind. f ; In conclusion, a few comparisons are justifiable. We have had twenty- three presidents in 104 years, while Rome had, discarding minor contes- tants, sixty-four emperors in 503 years, and Great Bri ain has bad, beginning with William the Conqueror, thirty- five sovereigns in 826 years. Ot presi- dents in Mexico. Hayti and South America, it would be idle to make an estimate. Yet two of our presidents have been assassinated, and another, Jackson, only escaped that fate by an accident which apparently would not happen one time in a thousand. An- other escaped impeachment by but one vote. On the whole, though we may justly claim an improvement over the dark past, yet there is nothing to make us boast. Our government is by no means exempt from the evils which affiict other nations.—J. H. Beadle, in the Williamsport Times. Cleveland's Advisers. A Short Sketch of the Men Who Make Up Cleveland's Cabinet. Secretary of State-- Walter Q. Gresh- am, of Illinois. . Secretary of the Treasury—John G. Carlisle, of Kentucky. Postmaster-General—Wilson S- Bis- sell, of New York. Secretary of War—Daniel S. Lamont, of New York. Secretary of the Navy—Hilary A. Herbert, of Alabama. Secretary of the Interior—Hoke Smith of Georgia, Attorney-General—Richard Olney, of Massachusetts. Secretary of Agriculture—J. Sterling Morton, of Nebraska. SECRETARY OF STATE GRESHAM, ‘Walter Q. Gresham, who is to be Secretary of State, is a native ot In- diana, having been born March 17, 1832, near Lanesville, Harrison county. He earned his education at the Corydon Seminary and Blcomington University by performing the duties of a clerk in the County Clerk’s office. When 22 years old he was admitted to the bar. He joined the Republican party in 1856, was elected to the Legislature in 1860, participated in the Rebellion as a Union soldier, was retired as a Briga- dier-General, was in 1869 made United States Circuit Judge for the District of Indiana, became President Arthur's | Charles J. Folger as Secretary of the Webster said the place Treasury andresigned to become United | ? : established a ood practice when the re- | bellion broke out. States Judge for the Illinois and In- diana circuits. Judge Gresham was warmly support- | ed for the Presidential nomination at the | Republican Nati nai Convention in 1888 | but wasdefeated by Benjamin Harrison. | He announced bis intention to support | Mr. Cleveland previous to last election; | explaining that he could not indorse the tariff policy of the Republican party, | nor could he tolerate the Pharisees who | were in control of the party with which he had so long affiliated He reluctant- ly accepted the State portfolio, declining | to consider it until convinced that the country needed his services. FINANCIER CARLISLE. John G. Carlisle, the next Secretary of the Treasury, was born in Kenton County, Ky., in 1835. Hea was given a common-school education, and at an early age was admitted to the bar. Soon | after he was elected to the Legislature, where he espoused the cause of the Un- ion and did much to prevent the seces- sion of his State. In 1866 he was made a State Senator, and during bis second term was elected Lieutenant-Governor. This was in 1871 Five years later he was elected to Con- gress. He was chosen Speaker of the Fortyreighth, Forty-ninth and Fiftieth Congresses, May 17, 1890. he was chosen to fill the unexpired term of James B. Beck, who died while a member of tha United States Senate, and took his seat May 26, 1890. He resigned over two weeks ago to accept the Secretary-ship of the Treasury. THE PRESIDENT’S OLD LAW PARTNER ‘Wilson Shannon Bissell, who is to be Postmaster General, has often been mis- taken for the President. But he is tall- er and more corpulent. He was born in Oneida county, N. Y., Dec. 31, 1847. He was but six years old when his pa- rents removed to Buffalo. After attend- ing the local schools young Bissell was sent to the Hopkins Grammar School at New Haven, Conn,, where he prepared himself tor Yale. He graduated from Yale and began the study of law with A. P. Laning at Buffalo. Laning later formed a part- nership with Grover Cleveland and Os- car Folsom. In the autumn of 1872 Mr. Bissell, having completed his studies, found Lyman K. Bass as a part- ner. A year after Mr. Cleveland became a member of the firm and it was known as Bass, Cleveland and Bissell. In 1882, when Mr. Cleveland was elected Governor, Mr. Bissell became the head of the firm of Bissell, Sicard & Goodyear. He soon became known as an able railroad lawyer, and was elected to the presidency of two or three of these corporations in the western part of the State. Mr. Cleveland and Mr. Bissell are in- timate friends. While residents of Buffalo they occupied appartments in the same building. Soon after the election of Mr. Cleveland to the Presi- dency in 1884, Mr. Bissell was offered a bigh government place. He declined it because he could not aftord to aban- don his law practice. When Daniel Manning was about to resign the Secretaryship of the Treasury Mr. Bissell was said to have been offer- ed the portfolio. Agnin he refused, and Charles 8. Fairchild was appointed instead. A When Mr. Cleveland was married at the White House Mr. Bis- sell was his best man. In polities Mr. Bissell has always been a Democrat. Though he has re- peatedly refused public office he has many times been a delegate to state con- ventions and in 1884 was a Presidential elector at large. THE NEW SECRETARY OF WAR. Col. Daniel S. Lamort, the Seec- retary of War, is a native of Cortland, this States and was born Feb. 8, 1852. He earned his way through Union College with bis salary as clerk in the Senate engrossing-room. When barely ot age he ran for Assembly in his home distri<t and was defeated. After the election of Samuel J. Tilden to the Governorship, Lamont was made chic f of the Senate document room. La- ter, Secretary of State John Bigelow made him his chief clerk. Under Dan- iel Manning, of the Albany Argus La- mont served as a reporter on the floor of the Assembly. Tilden made him clerk of the Demo- crat State Committee. Lamont was still reporting for his pa- per at Albany when Grover Cleveland was 2lected Governor. When about to prepare his first message to the Legisla- ture, Gov. Cleveland asked Manning to recommend some one who was splendid- ly intormed on State affairs. Manning recommended Lamont. The latter fulfilled his duties so well that Cleveland placed him on his staff with the rank of colonel. The Govern- or was opposed to having a private secretary, but Lamont, nevertheless, performed the duties of one without any definite arrangement until the campaign of 1884. After the nomination of Cleveland to the Presidency, Col. Lamont was the one above all others to be consulted. He was invaluable to the State and Na- tional committees in devising plans to increase the Democratic vote, especially in the rural districts. Noone man did more than he to secure the electoral vote of the State to Cleveland. Soon after the returns announced his triumph the President-elect asked La- mont to accompany him to the White House as his private secretary. While in Washington Col. Lamont formed a very intimate acquaintance with William C. Whitney, Secretary of the Navy, and when the Republicans were restored to power in 1889 Lamont came to this city and sided Whitney in a syndicate to secure control of near- ly all the surface roads in town, He is now president of two companies treasurer of two more, and a director in three other concerns which go to make up the Metropolitan Traction Company. HERBERT, WHO WILL RUN THE NAVY. Hilary A. Herbert is a native of South Carolina. He was born at Lau- rensville about six ty years ago. When he was a child his father removed to Greenville, Butler county, Ala. After obtaining a rudimentary education. at the village school young Herbert was sent to the University of Alabama. Later he took a law course at the Uni- versity of Virginia and was graduated | with high honors. | Herbert was admitted to the bar, and | He enlisted as a | captain, and soon was promoted to be | Colonel of the Eighth Alabama Con- federate Volunteers, At the head of | that regiment be participated in all the | engagements up to the battle of the | Wilderness. There, while leading his troups, be lost an arm. . For months be lay in the hospital with scant chances for revovery. Herbert had a good constitution, however, and, pulling through tried to enter the service. He was not permit- ted to do so because of” hie disability. He resumed the practice of his profes- sion at his old home. Later he remov- ed to Montgomery, osce the capital of | the Confederacy, and from there was elected to the Forty-fifth Congress as a Democrat. He has served continuous- ly in the House ever since, many times having no opponent in the nominating convention. From the day he entered Congress Mr. Herbert affiliated with the friends of the new navy and fought persistently to rejuvenate the merchant marine. Twice he has been appointed Chairman of the house Committee on Naval Affairs. He holds that place to- day. When efforts have been made by enemies of the navy to cut down appro- priations Mr. Herbert has taken the flour, and by convincing argument al- most always has carried his point. He is u capital debater, a polished gentle- man aod popular among leaders of both parties. His appointment is under- stood to be due not only to his thorough | understanding of the needs of the navy as exhibited when William C. Whitney | to whom he lent invaluable aid. was Sceretary, but also to the efforts of Con- gressman Oates and other friends who persistently have urged Mr. Cleveland to select him. Col. Oates, it will be remembered had a long interview with the President- elect. He recommended the appoint- ment of Herbert as the very best that could be made. When Herberfs chances were at low ebb, the Alabamians and other Southern Democrats deluged Mr. Cleveland with telegrams and letters begging that their favorite should not be passed by. Col. Daniel §. Lamont also is said to have urged the appoint- ment. HOKE SMITH’S CAREER IN GEORGIA. Hoke Smith, the Secretaty of the Interior, was born thirty-eight years ago in North Carolina. He removed to Georgia with his parents, and, after re- ceiving his education in the Atlanta schools, became the Principal of the Girls’ High School. While instructing pupils he studied law and was admitted to the Barin 1876. In the pratice of his profession he was frequently retained in suits against rail- roads which tried to gobble up land without paying for it, and for years he has been known as a fearless enemy to grasping corporations. Having wade a fortune out of his practice, Mr. Smith purchased the Atlanta Jowrnal and made it one of the leading daily news- papers of the South. e is known as the ‘original Cleve- land man from Georgia,” having espoused the President-elect cause when he had need of friends in that State. His most recent political feat was to trans- form the Georgia delegation to the Pres- idental convention at Chicago from a Hill to a Cleveland delegation. In this way he secured a notable vic- tory over Evan P. Howell and Patrick Walsh, the Hill leaders, and achieved a national reputation for himself as a politician, RICHARD OLNEY. Richard Olney is one of the best known corporation lawyers in New England. For several years he has been attorney for the Buston and Maine Railroad, and is consulting lawyer for many cther corporations. His fitness for the position to which he has been appointed is unquestioned, and his per- sonal character commands respect from men of all parties. His appointment is a surprise to Democrats in Boston, as Mr. Olpey has always refused to accept public office, but it cannot be objected to by any faction of the Democratic pai. He has been recognized as a eader 1n that organization. Mr. Olney is a man of large wealth. His income from his practice is said to be $50,000 a year. His winter residence isin a fash- ionuble part of Boston and he has a summer place near Gray Gables on Buzzard’s Bay,where he has been the friend and companion of President Cleveland. Mr. Olney has twice retused the prof- fer of a seat on the Supreme Bench of Massachusetts. One year merely to oblige his party friends, he accepted the Democratic nomination for Attorney General, but was of course defeated. The only time he ever went outside of urty lines was when Butler was nom- inated for Governor. He refused to support Butler. ben the vacancy occurred in the office of Chief Justice of the Supreme Court Mr Oiney’s name was presented to Mr, Cleveland, but the appointment went to Melville W. Fuller because he was & Western man. In addition to being counsel for the Boston and Maine system Mr. Olney is general counsel of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe and Chicago, Burlington and Quincey roads. AGRICULTURIST MORTON, J. Sterling Morton, the new Secretary of Agriculture, was born at Adams, Jef- ferson County, N. Y., April 11, 1832 He was graduated from Union College. Removing the Nebraska, he became the editor of the Nebraska City news, was twice elected to the Territorial Legisla- ture, and in 1858 became the Acting Governor. He ran three times for Governor of the State, but was defeated. For five years he has devoted himself to the cul- tivation of trees and the preservation of forests. He is the father of what is known as Arbor Day. He was offered the Agricultural portfolio Feb. 17 and accepted on the spot. —4T wish you would go on an errand for me.” Small son—“My leg aches awful.” “Too bad. I wanted you to go Mrs. Stickney’s candy store, and —"' “Oh, that isn’t far. I can walk there easy.’ “Very well. Go there, and right alongside of it you will see a grocery store. Go in and get me a bar of soap. ' The World of Women. He was a six times millionaire Who sat behind her at the play; The maid took off her bonnet there ; He married her next day Purple and violet gauze, veils are the very newest style. “Ouralay” is a new green which will bold its own as a popular spring tint. _ Shaded velvet sleeves with contrast- ing costumes. and plaid velvet sleeves ich blue or green cloth gowns are pop- ular. The Rembrandt bat is another revival. These bats are as large as a bushel bas- ket und give a sort of roofed-over ap- pearance to the woman who wears them. The newest embroidery for trimming fine zephers, batiste cloths andlother fine ;cotton dresses (is in open work, wrought. with a heavy design in color to match the dress. Fine lace or embroidered muslin scarfs are being much ‘used for evening wear. With the addition of one of these bright scarfs a needed bit of color may be given to an otherwise sombre gown. Ida Lewis, the Grace Darling of America, is quite content with her lone- ly home in a Narragansett Bay light- house without bothering about going to | the Chicago show to display herself and her medals. A pretty trimming and one that is quite new for a ball dress consists of nar- row satin ribbon crossed to form a deep lattice work, while at each intersection is a tiny flower or bow, This ornamen- tation is pretty in colors over white. Horizontal skirt trimmings mount higher and higher. To remodel an old sheath skirt of last season, to give it the appearance of the width now required, the easiest resort is several ruffles of vel- vet set at wide intervals up the skirt. The most popular way to trim a skirt just now is with narrow bands of some contrasting material, placed at graduat- ed distances from the hem to the knee, the bottom space being the broadest,and the upper one the least in width. Satin is very popular for these folds or bands, which may be from one to two inches in width. Black satin and black cloth make a favorite combination this season. Large, showy plaids in most exquisite tones will be much used for sleeves, revers. narrow bias bands and the hundred aud one ways that a wo- man of taste knows bow to utilize a ma- terial which for an entire gown would be too much, but which makes the most effective trimming imaginable. In di- rect contrast to these very pronounced effects are the wool challies, the beauti- ful Jovanaise in its dainty silk and wool mixture and the printed cash- meres. Mrs. Potter Palmer has heen in Wash- ington trying to beguile $92 000 out of Congress for the Board of Lady Mana- gers, One of her latest schemes points towards the issue of a new souvenir coin to be known as the ‘Isabella coin,’ of the value of 25 cents. She offers to take $10,000 of the $92,000 she requires in these proposed Isabella souvenir quarters, which will give her 40.000 of these coins. If the coins are issued they will contain a picture of Queen Isabella on oneside and a picture of the Woman’s Building in Chicago on the other. Next to new spring bonnets I think I like best the array of silk blouses that always appear at this season. The win- dows are full of them, and they are es- pecially pretty and stylish this season, with their flaring ruffles and little extra jackets of velvet. Some of them are made in sort of bandage fashion, coming only to the waist line, and appear to be merely draped around the form rather than fitted. Of course the underlining must be tight, but the effect is of a fichu crossed in front and tied in a soft knot at the back. The sleeves are of course of the prevailing large and baggy order: Beside these, of course, in all the new- est spring shades, were to be found broadcloths, bengalines, changeable pop- lins ard many other fabrics. sacking, one of the season’s novelties, re- sembles a canvas in texture and promis- es to be much 1n vogue for gowns that will receive plenty of wear and tear. Nuage beige is also a product of the loom but recently imported. The wo- man who bhasn’t at least one gown showing changeable effects cannot call her wardrobe-altogether up to date, for the two-toned harmonies run the gamut from silk to cotton. A very handsome street gown for a young lady that has come under my observation this spring is a chestnut brown diagonal wool. The skirt is neat and not pronounced in any way. There are three narrow rufiles around the bot- tom.’ The waist 1s plaited to a point front and back and heid in by a seal brown velvet girdle. The fore-arms are of the velvet, and the sleeve puffs are plaited downward, which is certainly more graceful than the stiff puffs so often seen. A neat little triple cape of the velvet adds richness and effect. The hat is felt, of the same brown shade as that in the gown, and it has maize col- ored plumes, donkey’s ears of brown velvet, a gold buckle and two peacock anthers for trimming, the entire outfit being a model for a young lady. Capes are to take a fresh lease of favor with the opening of spring, because they go on so easily and do not crush large sleeves. They are already imported in most varied sizes, in little cape collars that reach only to the shoulder tips, in double and triple capes that come down to the waist line. and in longer single capes that reach low on the hips and have a cape collar to make them amply full about the shoulders. Cloth capes will be most used, and tan and army blue of grayish shades are the favorite colors. Figured stuffs of mixed silk and wool will be stylish for spring capes, and are made very full, one model three yards and a half wide reaching below the hips, being boxpleated to around yoke that falls low on the shoulders, A cape collar of seven box pleats covers this yoke and forms a standing collar. Red and green are the colors mixed in the fabric, acd the lining of taffeta is shot in the same colors. The design in the stuff is vague, being partly of balls and pear-shaped pieces.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers