‘March 15, 1445 and Bellefonte, Pa., Oct. 28, 1892 How broad, how deep, how calm, how sweet These dear October days! The sky bends low the hills to greet, And through the dreamy haze, If heaven or earth I cannot see. Nor solve the pleasing mystery, Tis wonderful ? October's sun Makes paradise of noon. And night, with all her stars as one, Pays homage to the moon. The sun by day, the moon by night, Stir every sense of sweet delight. A RCS STATI, THE HYMNS THAT MOTHER LOVED. There's nothing like the old hymn tunes That mother used to love ; I kinder think she sings them now Before the throne above. They bring me back the country church, With floor and. benches bare, ‘The country folk in Sunday clothes, The preacher’s thin white hair. The leader with his turning fork, Who used to set the key ; : He taught the village singing school, A martinet was he. And when he lined the verses out, My, how the folks did sing ! You see those people felt it all ; They made the rafters ring ! And then at home on Sunday night, We had our fam’ly choir, With father, mother, girls and boys, Around the open fire; And mother’d fold her busy hands And kinder cloge her eyes, And look as if she saw the light Of mansions in the skies. I’ve traveled far and wide since then, And famous singers heard, I've heard the great musicians play, But nothing ever stirred. My soul as do those old hymn tunes The saints and martyrs knew ; ; They sang them through the fire and blood, And mother loved them too ! —Mrs. M. P. Hanay. THE STORY OF COLUMBUS, IN TWO PARTS—PARET I. On the road from Granada to Alcala del Real, in the beautiful valley of Mt. Elvira in Spain, there stands to-day the ruined abutments of an ancient bridge. Its high, moss-grown and crumbling approaches lift themselves like fading memories of a mighty past. And well taey may; for on that bridge, whose stoue floor echoed to the tread of a triumphant Islamism ages before the red towers of the Al hambra passed into the posses sion « of old Spain, was pre sented four hundr:d years ago the sublimest tableau that the world has ever seen since the tragedy and the tri- umph of the Son of Man marked the climax of the world’s history. It was toward the middle of an April after noon four hundred years ago that a man of austere but impressive coun- tenance paused near the middle of the massive structure to rest. He was at- tired in the aud coarse habiliments ofa Franciscan, was accompanied by his son, a lad of a dozen years or so. The historians of Castile and Leon have left but little detail of this and other memorable scenes in the life of the later first* Admiral of the Indies; but it was on this bridge of Pinos that the tableau occurred. With unutter- able weariness of heart, with despair battling with his indomitable will, the man halted for a brief space to rest the boy. While waiting here a royal cou- rier, mounted as modern painters have depicted him. on a mule, rode across the valley from thesouth and reaching’ the heart-sick traveler and his son, commanded bim to return to the royal court he had just abandcned, supple: menting the command wiih the state- ment that the Queen of Castile, Isabel la the beautiful and Catholic, had granted his prayers, and that an expe- ditipa to discover the Indies had been agreed upon. A FATEFUL MOMENT. That moment decided the fate ot Christopher Columbus, the son of the wool carder of Genoa, the itinerant map-peddler of Portugal, and gave to Castile and Leon a new world. That decision ot Queen Isabella, that re- tracing of his steps to Santa Fe on the part of Christopher Columbus meant more to Christendom and civilization than any other eventin profane history sincejthe tragedy of Golgotha. = It mat: ters not what manner of man this Gen- oese mariner was: it matters not whether now. after a lapse of four cen- turies, the Mother Church condones the moral turpitude of the man and may lift the stain of illegitimacy from his'son by canouizing the father, the one fact remains that viewed in the light of the subsequent effect upon civ- ilization and Christianity of his unswer- ing purpose, Christopher Columbus stands forth as the grandest figure in all the ages since the coming of Christ. What does this New World which he discovered know of Christopher Columbus ? Just what the Old World knows, and that is very little and very unsatisfactory. There is not even an authentic picture of the great discover so far as is known. The nearest approach to a genuine likeness of the man was painted ten years after his death and there is nothing to show that this painting was from another one, or that the artist was familiar with the features of the navigator. Even the birth place of Colambus has been a matter of dispute of over three centuries. WHERE HE WAS BORN. Modern research has finally agreed that Christopher Columbus was born in the City of Genoa some time between March 20, 1447. By common consent, through the pa- tient researches of the Marquis Stag: lienno, the house in which he was | Buteven this does not finally deter- mine the parentage and place of birth of the discoverer of the New Indies. The father is said by some historians to have been a simple carder of wool ; on the other hand, the brother Bartholo- mew, who shared in a measure the latter fortunes and misfortunes of his illustrious brother, states that his fath- er’s family had been mariners on the seas around about Italy. At all events, Columbus'had three brothers and one sister, the latter named Bianchimetta. who married a cheesemonger named Varrarello. His brothers were Giovo- ni, who died in 1501, Bartholomew, who sailed with Christopher, and Diego. 3 : The early life of Columbus is shroud- ed inthe densest obscurity, In fact, for a period of nearly 16 years his life, so far as its known history is concern- ed, is a blank. That he acquired an excellent education for that period is evinced by his excellent penmanship, his freedom in composition and his knowledge of cosmography and navi- gation, More than this Christopher Columbus was a close student of na- ture, what would be called now a weather prophet; and well did this knowledge serve him in his subsequent adventurous career. It is pretty safe to assert that he obtained the rudi- ments of his education in the schools of Genoa, though afterward it is said that he studied atthe University of Pavia, where he was taught cosmogra- phy astrology and geometry. This university training is a matter of doubt although there is still shown at Pavia a drawing credited to Columbus. At the age of 14 he returned to Genoa and shortly after went to sea. These years were full of adventure for the youth of Continental Europe. The ships of the Mediteranean were treas- ure ladened, the Moors were gradually being driven from Spain, neighboring principalities were preying upon each other, and piracy was a profession of merit. The first we hear of Columbus in his role as a moriner is in connee- tion with an expedition fitted out in Genoa by King John of Anjou against the Neapolitans. This was about 1460, One of the fleet captains was named Colombo, but no trace of kin- ship can be made out between him and the future discoverer of America, Thirteen years now elapse in which we lose all sight of the mariner Col- umbus until in 1473 he appears in Portugal as a peddler of maps he had drawn with his expert pen. It is ap- parent that during all these years Col- umbus had been meditating great voy- ages, had been dreaming of unknown lands, and revolving in his mind the then little accepted and heretical theory of the sphericity of the earth. THE MARRIAGE OF COLUMBUS. While in Portugal, as always else- where Columbus found his chief com- paunionship among adventurous men who had made famous sea voyages, or else among the scientists of that day who had given cosmography the clos- est study. Oae of the former was Bartholomew Palestralo, a navigator under Priace Henry, of Portugal, and it was the daughfer of this man whom Columbus took to wife. In his inter- course with his father-in-law he gained much information that was of infinite value to him, but these years ot his life were embittered by the early death of his wite, who left him with one son, Diego, as the fruit of ther union, There was a romantic side to the life of Col umbus, although his biographers, whether striving to make him out a saint, a fanatic, or a conscieuceless ad- venturer, seem to neglect it. He met his wife at divine worship at the Con- veat of all Saints. It seemed to be a case of love at first sight ; for shortly afterwards they were married, and so far as history can tell us it wasa hap- py though match. “io It was during Columbus’ residence in Portugal that the revival of learning began in Western Europe, stimulated” by the invention of the printing press. It wasabout thistime that the theories of Toscanello, a Florentine scientist, that the earth was a sphere began to be more widely disseminated and at- tracting the attention of Columbus the latter opened a correspondence with the aged philosopher, who at this time was past 70 years of age. Whatever, beliefs Columbus might have entertain- ed of the rotundity of the earth they were strengthened by his correspon- dence with Toscanello. The latter, despite his correct philosophical and cosmographical belief, was a great dreamer ; in fact, few scientists of that age were entirely free from the errors and visionary attributes of the pseudo sciences of alchemy and astrology, which were associated, almost insepar- ably, with every other science. Thus it was that Toscanello wrote about wonderful islands, on the east coast of the Indies; of a region where the bridges of 200 towns of Asia span- ned a single iver, and of countries whose commerce would shame the shipping and commercial interest of all Europe. THE COLUMBUS OF OBSCURITY. It is not to be wondered that such unfounded yet brilliant dreams should further fire the heart of Columbus, al- ready burning with a desire to achieve great things. If anything were needed to strengthen his belief in his own des- tiny, to crystallize his purpose held throngh many years. The letters of the Florentine philosopher were des- tined to accomplish that purpose. The mind of Columbus was turned to the indiea; no idea of ‘land lying in the ocean between the western coast of Europe and the eastegn shore of the Indies seemed to enter his mind... He doubtless anticipated finding a wonder- tul island, the “Atlantis of Plato, but his dream was to reach the eastern shore of Cathay, as China was then called, the East Indies Islands, princi- born has ben idenified as No. 37 | pal among which was Cizango abound- in the Vico Dritto Ponticello. The | ing in ‘riches and which strangely discovery was made by tracing back | enough'in the description of geogra. the title to the property to one Domi naco Columbus, who is supposed to be the father ot Christopher. phers of that day nearly corresponds to the Japan of the present. At this period Christopher Colum- not an advantageous! ETS Tr EN oii i ri bus was at a threshold of a mature life | He was of an intensely religious na- | ture, or else the chroniclers ot the old- i en days were sadly mistaken, for the | professions of the discoverer, his adop- i tion of a Franciscan habit and his sub- sequent association with religious teachersand monks must have been the outward expression of inward zeal, or else the brazen effrontery of an ad- venturer, the shameless deceptions of an hypocrite. CASTELAR’S ESTIMATE OF COLUMBUS. The latest of the many descriptions of the personnel and estimates of the character of Columbus is perhaps the fairest. It embraces the favorable sum of all other biographers and is from the pen of Emilio Castelar, the ex- President of the Spanish Republic. He says :— “Columbus was of powerful frame, large build, of majestic bearing and dignified in gesture ; on the whole well formed, of middle height, inclining to tallness ; his arms sinewy and bronzed like wave-beaten oars; his nerves high-strung and sensitive, quickly res- ponsive to all emotions; his neck large and his shoulders broad ; his face rather long and his nose aquiline; bis complexion fair, even inclined to redness and somewhat dishgured by freckles; his gaze piercing and his eyes clear ; his brow high and calm, furrowed with the deep workings of thought. “In the life written by his son, Ferdinand, we are toid that Columbus not only sketch most marvellously, but. was so skillfula penman that he was able to earn a living by engrossing and copying. In his private notes he said that every good map daugnteman outght to be a good painter as well, and he himself was such in his maps avd globes and charts, over which we scattered all soris of cleverly drawn figures. He never penned a letter or began a chapter without setting at its bead this devout invocation: ‘Jesus cum Mari set nobis in via.” Besides bis practical studies he devoted him- self to astronomical and geometrical researches. Thus he was enabled to teach mathematice, with which, as with all the advanced knowledge of his time he was conversant, and he could, recite the prayers and services of the. Church like any priest before the altar, “Ile was a mystic and a merchant, a visionary and an algebraist. If at times he veiled his knowledge in cab- alistic formulas and allowed his vast powers to degenerate in puerile irrita- tion, it was because his own age knew him not, and had dealt hardly with him for many years—from his youth until he reached the threshold of age—without taking into account the reverses which darkened and em- bittered his later years. Who could have predicted to him, in the midst of the blindness that surrounded him, that there in Spain, and 1n that cen- tary of unfading achievement, the name of Columbus was to attain to fame and unspeakable renown ? There are those who hold that this was the work of chance. and that the discovery of America was virtually accomplished when the Portuguese doubled the Cape of Good Hope. But I believe not in these posthumous alterations of history to mere caprice, nor in those after rumors of the discoverers who died in obscurity. “Now as to the pictures of Colambus The one which seems to hold the highest claim for authenticity 1s that known as the Jovius portrait: A wealthy Roman named Jovius erected a villagearly in the fifteenth century on the shore of Liake Como and adorned it with the portraits of those who had contributed to the glory of that age. Among the paintings was one of Col- umbug, At this time, however, Colum- bus had been dead for ten years. The: name of the Jovius artist i3 unknown, and the only basis for the belief that the picture of Columbus is a good one is a fact that the other paintingsin the collection are of considerable merit and: fairly eorrect. ry AS A PORTUGUESE. NAVIGATOR, The family consections of Columbus’ wife were no doubt responsible for his entering the service ot Portugal, where we find him in 1477. But even of this ‘connection little is known. to have made a voyage to Iceland in ‘the service of the King of Portugal, but of this and a great deal else in the subsequent life of the Admiral much has to be left to conjecture. Whatever his services in the interest of the Portuguese monarch were, they were ot sufficient importance to war- rant bis demanding thata fleet be placed at his disposal to explore the Western ocean. The Portuguese mariners had coasted down Africa, and by their daring had won the admira- tion of the world previous to this time, but the proposition of Columbus was go for in advance of anything thus far proposed that the King felt inclined to respect it at the outstart. Bat the de- mand of Columbus stood in the way ; in the vernacular of a later age, he wanted the earth,” and King John de- clined to yield it up. Asa subterfuge the King decided to refer the whole matter to a cousistory or council, which of course decided against the Genoese navigator. Butnotwithstand- ing this the King fitted ont a caraval, and under pretense of a voyage to the Cape Verde Island, sent it forth to dis- cover the islands described by Colum- bus. Before the ship had gone far oun the Western ocean a tremendous storm broke, and the sailors turning back, related their story which expos éd the artifice of the Kine. Upon this discovery, Colambus, left for Spain. ““Thereareconflicting stories of this episode iu the life of the future admiral, some asserting that his depart- ure at this juncture was owing to the pressare of debts and the activity of creditors’; that he left with his son, pretty much as a fugitive might depart. It was in this year, 1478, that Co- lambns appeared at the gate of the Con- vent of Rabida, and appealed for food and drink for himself and his son. It was only a little journey, a mere step He is said. by sea from Portugal to Huelva in Spain, and journeying along this road he passed the convent. As this convent of Santa Maria de | Rabida plays an important part in the life of Columbus, it deserves more than a passing notice. Huelva is one of the most South western sea ports of Spain. Near it and further up the river at a distance of four miles lies the little port of Palos. It is here that the famous Convent of Maria de Rabida is located. It is not a convent. but a church, and its exact dimensions are given by a late traveler as being 140 feet front, 155 feet deep, and bavivg a front to the water of 216 feet. It stands on a bank, a blaff of about seventy feet above the river, and of a distance of 1000 feet from it. Ordinarily its walls are a dun color, but this year they are snowy white, as in honor of the period the monument of Columbus in the town is being re- stored. HIS WANDERINGS IN SPAIN. There area variety of reasons assigned for the appearance of Columbus and his son Diego at the gate in the convent walls of Maria Rabida, Oue is that he sought rest and shelter on his way to appeal to the courts of Ferdinand and Isabella for aid in his scheme. An- other is that he was searching for a man named Mulier, who had married his wife's sister and with whom he wanted to leave his boy while on his lobbying trip to the Imperial court. At all events it was while waiting at the gate for a ration of black bread and cheese or other fare of the Franciscans of de Rabida that the Prior Juan Perez, of Marchene found him, and instituting inquiries led Columbus to disclose his scheme for reaching the Western Isles. Of the glory which attaches to the achievements of Christopher Colum- bus, a certain portion of it is the right of Juan Perez. Without the enthusi: asm, the able counsel, the skillful and politic intervention of this Prior, court- ier and man of science, the Western world would have waited for the com- ing of another discoverer than the Gen- oese navigator. ; There must have been a wonderful facination for Parez about the narrative of Columbus, coupled with his unflag- ging zeal and oneness of pupose, for the Prior not only gave him food and shel. ter as was custom for convents and monasteries to do in those days, but more than this he became the cham- pion and friend of the homeless enthu- siast, and remained so until the day of his death. He called in sonie influen- tial friends. navigators and scientists, and to these Columbus recounted anew his aspirations and hopes and theories. Among these were the village physi cian, a mariner named Valasio, and a retired vessel owner named Pinzen, who was destined to be associated with Co- lumbus in many of his subsequent voy- ages. Perez immediately began to arrange for the introduction of Columbus at court. At thattime Ferdinand and Is- adella were busy driving the Moors out of Andalusia. The last fight of Is- lamism in Western Europe was being waged. Ferdinand, of Leon, had wed- ded Isabella of Castile, each a sover- eign in their own right, and although they were united by domestic ties the affairs of each kingdom were managed independently. Perez was more than a scientist and religious; he was a man who had a name in the world which revolved around the court of Isabella as the cen- tral sun, Hearing of the wisdom and learning of Friar Perez Isabella had summoned him to appear at court and take the part of confessor to her Maj. esty. But the brilliancy of court life, the battle of city and castle, were dis- tasteful to the Franciscan and at his own request he was released and. re tired to the monastery or convent of Maria de Rabida, where he ended his life. fia RObR 3 Nine Lives. From the Detroit Free Press. i He was a flirt, and a wale flirt nev: er gets a lick amiss. ; The harder you hit him the better. He had asked the girl to marry him and she was onto his curves. “No,” she said promptly and firmly. He became theatric. “You have crushed my life at one blow,” he murmured hoarsely. “I guess not,” she responded. “Ah, but you do not know,” be in. sisted. © “You have killed me—killed ” “Well, if I have,” she remarked coolly, “you must be a cat, for [ know seven other girls who have done the same thing, and you are not dead yet. You've got one more chance. Then the iron entered his soul. ———————— A Natural Outburst. The wife of the young Methodist min- ister was taking up her carpets and oth- erwise making preparations for moving. «We've only been hear a year,” she said, and Wesley and I had so hoped he would be sent back to this charge for another year! I try to be resigned to the Lord’s will, but I tell you, Sister Wayland, if ever I get a chance to talk to that Bishop I'll make his ears tingle —now, you mark my word !”’ ARC FETT RR TR SOT -—Some three or four months ago Baron Hirsch distributed all his earn- ings on the turf for the previous year, amounting to $70,000, among deserv- ing English charities, He bas ac- cumulated fresh profits from the races won by his horses, and he intimates that a further sun of $100,000 will. be available for chartitable purposes at the beginning of 1893. ' Killed by a Straw, Hazerron, Pa., Oct., 16-—While at play yesterday Tommy, the 7-year old gon of Hugh McNetluy, of Freeland, swallowed a straw. ‘The gharp stem lodged in his throat and he died: sever- al hours later, having suffered untold pain. ——Tord Tennyson was ‘intensely fond of a pipe, ‘and wus’ seldom ‘seen without one. Cause of Color Blindness, The Excessive Use of Tobacco Found Responsi- ble in Some Cases. The parliamentary committee ap- pointed 1n Great Britain to examine the subject of color blindness, particularly in its relation to marine and railway signaling, have made an exceedingly 10- teresting report. They find that in the male population nearly 4 per cent. are either partially or wholly deficient in the ability to distinguish rightly the primary colors of the spectrum, The tests were made with great care, under the guidance of specialists whose scien- tific knowledge afforded a guarantee of accurate and trustworthy investigation. Because Berlin woo! presents to the eye a rough and nonreflecting surface, the colors of which are not heightened nor dulled by the light in which iv is displayed, that substance was selected for testing the eyes. Irom a miscella- neous heap of skeins of various colors the person submitting to a test was re- quired to select approximate matches tor certain test colors. It was found mon form of deficincy; blindness to green’ was the next frequency. Since experiment has proved that red and green are the two colors found to ba most trustworthy for signaling purposes, on account of their superior luminosity and their visibility at considerable dis- tances, the fact that these are the two colors which color-blind persons are most apt to mistake is, aceording to the Philadelphia Record, a matter of the first importance. The committee found that the persons in the responsible positions in the ma- rine and railway service, where accur- acy in determing color is essential to safety and efficiency, could not be trust- ed to read the signals correctly. This condition of things possibly furnishes the explanation of many disasters on sea and land which have hithertc been deemed mysterious, and it certainly in- dicates the necessity of a thorough test of the eyes of engineers, pilots, signal- men and others who are intrusted with the movement of trains and water craft. As to the causes of color blindness the committee report that in the greater number of instances it proceeds from congenital defects that cannot be reme- died; but it is frequently the result of excessive use of tobacco. This isa hint worth remembering on the part of those who may become aware of their inabili- ty to distinguish colors. As every day in the year thousands of lives and mil- lions of dollars’ worth of property are dependent for safe keeping upon the ac- curate reading of colors by persons em- ployed upon steamers, ships, and loco- motives, the knowledge of the risk in- volved should lead to thorough exami- nation and the weeding out of those found in this particular to have defec- tive eyesight. TET DTIC Hated to Break the Set. The Country [over who Did Not Care to Dis turb the Half Dozen. Irom the Newark Standard. In a certain village not twenty miles from Boston it appears there is a side street locally known as Maiden lane, This name is more realistic than ob- vious at first, coming as it does from the fact that six erstwhile muidens ‘have their homes there—three on each side of the road. The one eligible young man of the town found it a place with a good deal of attraction. The only trouble of it was, as the gossips concurred, the at- traction didn’t appear specific enough. Finally, after spending a couple of winters impartially before the half-doz- en firesides, 1t became plain that Eunice Maria--she of the end cottage and. the Sandy hair—-was receiving enough at- tention and Baldwin apples'tv warrant suspicion. Pablic excitement ran bigh and ebbed and ran high again as months went by. Nobody knew why the suitor waited unless, as a brother deacon said, because he was “natu’liy slow.” At last, right in the face of a new conjecture, the an- nouncement came that he was going to marry a young woman in a neighboring town. This was a blow—a blow so hard that when the deacon’s wife heard of it she put on her china aster bonnet and went over to the bridegroom-elect to in- quire into the subject. : «Now, look here; Joshun,” she re- proached him gently. “I should’er thought yer might ‘er suited yourself out’er six in Maiden lane.” «Waal, I did think on’t. I did think on Eunice Maria raal ser’us,” he admitied, ‘but truth wuz, I just hated ‘| to break the set.” Facts for Farmers to Ponder Over. A farmer ought to consider how this tariff of McKinley works against him. It cuts off competition 1n furming im- plements here, and the manufacturer who sends a horse-rake into the South American market and sells it for $19 charges $25 for it here. The Cum- ming feed-cutter is sold in South Am- erica for $60 and here for $90 ; the Clip- per cutter is sold in South. America for $9 50 amd-liete for $13; the Ann Arbor cuttef No. 1° is ¢old in South America sold in South America for $40. These are a few of the frauds the McKinley tariff practices on the fatmer. ; Points about Finger Nails. Broad nails indicate a gentle, timid and bashful nature. People with narrow nails are ambi- tious and quarrelsome. Small nail indicate littleness of mind obstinacy and conceit. Lovers of knowledge and liberal sen- timent have round nails. Choleric, martial men, delighting in war, have red and spotted nails. Nails growing into the flesh at the points ‘and sides indicate luxurious tastes.— Medical Qlassics. era———— No Excuse Taken. Revered Bluelaw—My dear young lady, I am sorry to see that you are not a regular attendant at our Subbath weetings. Why is that? Young Lady—1I should like to go, but I am so nervous that I can’t sit stil. ! Reverend Bluelaw— Um !—then . go to tha Episcapal church. —Judge. crm rT — HH —To purity 57 Your blood Take Hood’s Sarsaparilla. that blindness to red was the most com- | to it. “Hamlet.” for $16 and here for $28,and No. 2is’ The World of Women. Swedish girls begin, at an early ace, to make and finish the personal and house linen which they will require when they are married. Miss Harriet Monroe, who wrote the World's Fair Ode, is not only suing the World for its premature publication, but is going to write a whole volume of rhymes. A piece of chamois skin bound on the edges, shaped to fit the heel and kept in place by a piece of elastic rubber, worn over the stockings, will save much mending. : Nearly all of the hats turn up at the back with considerable flat trimming, while the decoration for the hat proper takes the form of single, double and triple Alsatian bows. A swell novelty in outside garments is shown in the Russian jacket, which is in exact imitation of the long three quarter garments that one has seen in pictures worn by a party of exiles bound for Siberia. Mrs. Annie Wittenmeyer, the flrst president of the W. C. T. U., is a beau- tiful white-haired woman, bright eyed and vigorons. though passed her seven- tieth © year. Mrs, Wittenmeyer has written several books. The latest thing in sweet pillows is one filled with clover blossoms dried in thesun. A case sixteen inches square filled with these was covered with licht green India silk embroidered with a de- sign of clover leaves in each corner, with scattering clover blossoms here and there over the centre. A charming costume in fawn broad- cloth had a straight, full skirt, with five bias bands of velvet edged with sable. The bodice had great velvet sleeves and a vest of white cloth appliqued in con- ventional figures of the velvet and bor- dered with the fur. The collar and sleeves are treated in a similar fashion. Trainon blue and old rose are grad- ually usurping the gold and white com- bination as a colorscheme for household decoration. All the models in furniture and stuff for hangings are now of these soft and pleasing tints, which are as lovely by gaslight as charming in day- light, and which clash not at all with other tints and colors. 1tisannounced that many corsages are to be worn different from the ¢kirts which they accompany. But this state- ment needs qualifying. The corsage may differ from the skirt, but it must never look as though 1t did not belong There must always be certain connecting links—a corselet, girder, . bretellas, yoke or collarette like the skirt or its garnitures. The becoming fashion of wearing the veil over the brim of the hat and drawn easily below the chin, which suits near- ly every face, is being superseded some- | what by a return to the old plastered style. The veil is fitted below the brim and drawn closely over the hair; If women will adopt this ugly method again at least cut the veil tissue or net on the bias, which adds grace and deft- ness to 1ts adjustment and prevents the unbecoming slip to which strapped veils often resort. : Alovaof a wrap is known as the One recherche model is made of black velvet. It reaches tothe waist and is guiltless of plait or fold, but is quite loose and fastened to the figure by means of brace of silk. The collar is thrown back, and so are the fronts of the cape, this arrangement forming revers. A delicately-tinted silk lines the garment throughout. This cape does not need, when made of vel- vet, decoration of any kind; although ‘a row or two of narrow jet braiding may. be used with excellent effect about the edges. For evening wear at the theatre the great loose capes seem to have come to stay, and with their high collars made in’ond ‘piece with the back, their bands of fur and their rich linings, the only wonder is how we have done so long without them, for no matter how ele- gant the jacket it will press: the sleeves into. wrinkles and the lace into folds that happen to be worn under, it. - | The great easy, yet wonderfully styl- ish, capes supply a long-felt want, therefore the women of the. world will wear a stylish jackets when occasion | does not demand their removal and the Yooser garments for receptions, theatres and other heated assembles. that necessi- tates the taking off of one’s wrap. Princesse dresses are to continue style ish during the coming season, and they will be worn even more than they have {been ‘during the present season. One of ‘the models which have been sent from abroad is capable of being used for the simplest as well as the most elabor- ate toilets. It is of foulard, baving, on a shot ground of white and apricot, lines of emerald greer: forming broad stripes, ote of which is spreckled with black while the next has a slender garland of apricot-colored flowers. The corsage is cut down on the neck and shoulders, with a guimpe and high collar of dark green velvet above, around the opening and crossing with the corsage to the left side of the waist, where it diminishes to a point, in a deep bertha of plaited apri cot chiffon, veiled with black lace, the chifion projecting an inch at the edge. Along the left side of the skirt, and apparently a continuation of the bertha, is a cascade of lace over chiffon, caught at intervals by three butterfly knots of green velvet, a fourth knot at the waist forming part of a green velvet belt. The full balf-long sleeve has a frill of lace over chiffon. This fashion of using black lace as a transparent is much ad- mired ; but it chould he a fine, delicate lace with a small pattern, Chantilly be- ing the prettiest. In this dress the soft. girdle or sash deducts from the length of the waist, and give a novel and pret- ty effect, which is becoming only to the slight figure. Other Princesse or polon- aise gown aro made with a fitted back and a straight front, which is plaited in box plaits, and confined by a half belt that cbmes from the side seams and passes throngh:shits at the inner folds of the plaits ; the plaits extend below the waist and gradually lose themselves in the skirt, which has no trimming at the toot.” House gowns are also made lin this way, with'a Watteau plait at’ the back, and # belt coming from under it and passing under plails at the front. ¥