Bellefonte, Pa., Sept. 23, 1892 TO-DAY. Be swift to love your own, dears, Your own who need you so ; Say to the speeding hours, dears, “I will not let him go Except thou give a tlessing;” Force it to bide and stay. Love has no sure to-morrow ; It only has to day Oh, hasten to be kind, dears, Before the time shall come When youjare left behind, dears, In a lonely home ; Before in late contrition Vainly you weep and pray, Love has no sure to-morrow ; It only has to-day. Swifter than sun shade, dears Move the fleet wings ot pain; The chance we have had to-day, dears, May never come again. Joy is a fickle rover, He brooketh no delay. Love has no sure to-morrow ; Ithas only to-day. To late to plead or grieve, dears, Too late to grieve or sigh, When death has set his seal, dears, On the cold lip and eye. Too late our gifts to lavish Upon the burial clay ; Life has no'sure to-morrow; It only has to-day. THE STORY OF PEARY’S TRIP TO GREENLAND. St. Joun’s, N. F., Sept. 11.—The steam whaler Kite, Richard Pike mas- ter, arrived here at 4.30 this afternoon having on board the following members, of the Pearce and Peary relief expedi- tions: Lieut. and Mre. R. E. Peary, Langdon Gibson, E. Astdup, Dr.. F. A. Cook and Mat Henson of the Peary expedition and Prof. Angelo Helliprin, Henry G. Bryant, Dr. J. M. Mills, William E. Meehaa, Samuel Entrikin, Albert W. Vorse, Frank Stokes and C. E. Hite, of the relief expedition. All hands are in perfect health. One member of the Peary party, J. Verhooef, who conducted the meteorol- ogical observations at the winter quar: ters on McCormick Bay, is missing. The Kite left McCormick Bay on the 24th ult., and Disco on the first of this month. Much pack ice was encoun- tered in the passage of Melville Bay and the North Water. That uecessita- ted a broad detour about Cape York, and it was only on the evening of the third day that the ship finally entered the open sea. A halt of two days was made at God- havn (Disco Island), and also at God- thaab, the capital of the southern in- spectorate of Greenland, and the point where Nansen emerged after his trav- erse from the east coast. Fine weath- er prevailed during the most of the re- turn journey. Both expeditions bring back a rich harvest of facts and collections. NO SPECIAL HARDSHIPS EXPERIENCED. No special hardships were experi- enced by the Peary party during last winter, although several members were afflicted with the gripe. At the time of the arrival of the Kite the sturdy band were still well provided with fuel and provisions, the latter sufficient to last for another three or four months. No effects of the siege are observable on Mrs. Peary, who battled through the dreary winter days with the full energy of the male members of the ex- pedition. The lowest temperature recorded dur- ing the winter was minus 53 degrees, or 19 degrees above the lowest that has heretofore been registered. The sun sank below the horizon early in No- vember, appearing again on Feb. 15. Two reconnoisance excursions on the inland ice were made in the early au- tumn by Gibson, Astrup and Verhooef, preliminary to locating a point of de parture for the main journey and of es- tablishing a base at the inner angle of the Humboldt glacier. A penetration of only thirty miles was accomplished, however. A REMARKABLE GEOGRAPHICAL EFFORT. The main traverse of the inland ice, which must be regarded as one of the most remarkable efforts in the whole domain of geographical exploration, was effected during the months of May, June, July and August of the present year. The attacking party consisted of Gibson and Cook, as auxiliaries at the Humboldt glacier, and of Lieut. Peary and Astrup for the journey furthest north. A sledge journey of upward of one thousand four hundred miles was accomplished with the result of deter- mining the northern boundaries of the mainland mass of Greenland. The route originally laid out by Liéut. Peary, passing the Humboldt glacier and Petermann Peak, and Sherard, Os- born and Edwards was adhered to as closely as circumstances would permit, and but few departures from the plan of traveling as first conceived were ne- cessitated, The starting point was the east end of McCormick Bay, over whose gran- ite cliffs the transportation of the nec- essaries for the journey was begun on May 1. The ice cape at this point de- scends to about 1,800 feet. Much as- sistance to the transportation was afforded by the native Esquimaux, a colony of whom had established them- selves during the winter months about the Red Ciiff House, the Peary winter quarters. On the eighth of May the final start was begun. Four sledges and twenty Whale Sound dogs were pressed into seryice for carrying supplies and equip meni, the members of the expedition walking, The depression of the Hum- ‘boldt glacier was reached on the twen- ty-first of the month. A few days after this the expedition divided, Cook and " Gibson, who had effected their purpose as a support, returning to McCormick Bay, while Lieut. Peary and Astrup, with thirteen dogs and three siedges, laid a course northeastward. UNBROKEN EXPANSE OF ICE. During their traverse of nearly three months over the most unhospitable re- gion of the earth’s surface no mishap of any kind was experienced. With! pemmican, pea soup, beans and biscuits ! as their sole provisions and with no tent to harbor them from the wind’s blasts off the icy interior the members of the party knew not an hour of illness nor did a companionship of two serve to dampen their ardor. Most of the journey was made oyer an unbroken expanse of ice and snow which rising in gentle sweeps and un- dulations, attained an elevation of 7,000 to 8,000 feet, falling off to the four points of the compass. Travel over this surface was much as Lieut, Peary had anticipated, easy and devoid of danger. From fifteen to twenty miles were traversed daily and an average of nearly thirty miles daring the last ten days of the journey. No traces of human life presented themselves during the entire journey, and scarcely a vestige of animals ex- cepting snow buntings at or about the Humboldt Glacier and sea-gulls, which flitted across the narrow north. A number of musk oxen were observed and procured beyond the eightieth par- allel In boldness of conception and execa- tion, in results obtained, and in the scantiness of the resources with which to attain the results, the Pearv-Astrup journey stands almost unparalelled in the annals of Arctic discovery and out- ranks the brilliant achievement of Nodson in his first crossing of Green- land. The expedition fully establishes the soundness of the views Lieut. Peary had for years advocated regarding the art of travel over the inland ice, and will doubtless tend to revolutionize the methods of Arctic exploration. GREAT RESULTS FROM SLENDER RESOURC- No previous expedition has operated on, even approximately, the slender fi- nancial basis of this one, and none has been more fortunate or successful in the attainment of its object. The expe- dition adhered almost rigidly to the lines prescribed for it, while perhaps its most remarkable feat was the finish on schedule time, At the time of its departure from McCormick Bay the first week in Au- gust had been fixed upon as the limit of probable return, when the exigencies of the position demanded an almost immediate retreat southward. Antici- pating this return, the steam-whaler Kite, of the relief expedition of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Phila- delphia, with Mrs. Peary on board, was pushed to the bead of McCormick Bay on August 4, a few days after the disappearance of the ice permitted a free entrance. On the following day a reconnois- sance of the inland ice, with a view of locating signal posts to the returning explorers, was made by the entire re- lief party, uader the direction of Prof. Helliprin. The soft condition of the snow made travelling exceedingly slow and exhausting. At times almost every step buried the members of the party up to the knees or waist. The hard crust of winter had completely disap- peared and not even the comparatively cool sun of midnight was sufficient to bring about a degree of compactness adequate to sustain the weight of a hu- man body. No crevasses of any mag- nitude were encountered. The first signal-post, with a banner hearing the direction to McCormick Bay, was erected at 9.30 in the evening at an elevation of some three thousand three hundred feet and approximately eight miles within the border of the in- land ice. The course followed was as nearly as possible that over which it was assumed Lieut. Peary would re- turn, and was arranged on the compass course of the outward journey: LIEUT. PEARY RECOGNIZED. All around was one boundless ice- field, stretching to the limits of vision, with occasional mountain peaks, or nunataks, rearing their heads, bare and craggy, from the surface. A second signal-post was located on a knoll of 4,000 feet elevation at a dis- tance of about three miles from the first. Once more the the expedition plunged and burrowed in the yielding ice, slow- ly creeping to its objective point. Be- fore this was attained, however, a black speck appeared over precisely the spot that was being aimed at. “It is a mao. It is a moving,” rang through the cold night air, and it was immediately realized that the explor- ers were victoriously returning home- ward. : An instant later a second speck joined the first, and then a long black object, which the field-glass resolved into a sledge and dogs in harness, completed the strange vision of life upon the Greenland ice. Cheers and hurrabs at intervals broke the silenze of the untrodden soli- tude, but the distance was as yet too great for the sound to be conveyed to the approaching wanderers. Lieut. Peary had, however, already detected the reliet party, and he hast- ened to extend to them a hearty wel come. Like a veritable giant, clad in suits of deer and dog skin, and grace- fully poised on Canadian snowshoes the conquerer from the far north plunged down the mountain slope. Behind him followed his faithful companion, young Astrup, barely more than a lad, yet a tower of strength and endurance. He bore, true to the traditions of his race and his earlier conquests, in the use of the Norwegian snow-gkate or ski, With him were the five surviving Esquimau dogs, seemingly as healthy and power- ful as on the day of departure. CONGRATULATIONS ALL AROUND. ; In less than an hour after Lieut, Peary was first sighted he extended his hand to Prof. Helliprin and the other members of his party, receiving in re- turn general congratulations upon the successful termination of his journey. Neither of the travellers looked the worse for their three months’ toil in the interior, and both, with character- istic modesty, disclaimed having over- come more than ordinary hardships. Fatigue seemed to be entirely out of the question, aud both Peary and Astrup looked as fresh and vigorous as though they had just entered upon their great journey. After a brief recital of personal ex- EE Te SOE A SAT EXE CRA What Hr aR a) le periences and the interchange of Ameri- can and Greenland news the members of the combined expedition returned seaward, and thus terminated a most dramatic incident. A more direct meet- ing than this one on the bleak wilder- ness of Greenland’s ice cap could not have been had, even with all the possi- bilities of prearrangement. At 4.30 o’clock in the morning of Aug. 6, Lieut. Peary met his devoted and courageous wife. On the following day, in the wake of a storm which grounded the good rescue ship and for a time threatened more serious compli- cations, the Kite triumphantly steamed down to the Pearv winter quarters at the Red Cliff house. In the long traverse of 1,200. miles, was accomplished entirely on foot, Lieut. Peary experienced little or no discomfort from the fracture of the leg which he sustained while still on board the Kite in July of last year. Thanks to the care of his attending surgeon, Dr. Cook, and to an iron constitution early recovery was assured, and before the close of September the crutches had been finally thrown aside. No displace- ment in the injured limb is apparent. LOSS OF MR. VERHQOEF. The winter months in camp were passed in preparation for the spring journey in local excursions and in eth- nological investigations. The ethnol- ogical observations are specially signif- icant. A complete survey of Ingelfield Gulf, necessitating a sledge jouruey of up- ward of 200 miles, was made in April of the present year and was participa: ted in by Mrs. Peary, to whom the ex- pedition owes much for the compara- tive comforts which relieved the drear- iness of the long winter nights. But for the loss of Mr, Verhooef, the expedition of 1891-92 may be said to have escaped all the mishaps that have attended most Arctic venturers. The accident occurred a few days after Lieut. Peary’s return from the inland ice, and pending preparations for the final de- parture. Verhooef wandered off on one of his mineralogical walks beyond the region known to him and was pre- cipitated into one of the numerous gla- cial sheets which abound in the region. He was last seen on the morning of Aug. 11, when he stated his intention of visiting the neighboring Esquiman settlement of Kukan and a mineral io- cality well known to him, PEARY AND RYDER IN GREENLAND. Failing to appear at an early day fears were entertained for his safety and a systematic search was instituted by the members of the Peary and Helli- pin parties, assisted by nine Esquimaux and several of the ship's crew. The search was extended almost un- remittingly through seven days and nights over mountain, ice and glacier and with a thoroughness that left no large area of country accessible to the departed uncovered. No traces of the miseing man were discovered until early on the sixth day, when cblitered footprints, a few rock specimens placed on a boulder and bits of paper from a meat-tin label plainly indicated that days before a passage had been attempted over the danger- ously crevassed portion of a huge gla- cier discharging into the eastern ex- iremity of a bay lying immediately north of McCormick Bay. END OF THE SEARCH. A thorough survey of this glacier and of the approaches to it was made during three days, but only with a neg- ative result. While easily traversed in its upper course, the lower portion of the ice-sheet pretents an impassable barrier of crevasses and hummocks studded with treacherous snow bridges and deep holes, and it is all but certain that the unfortunate man met his fate here. Under this covniction and recognizing the futility of further search, the expe- dition sorrowfully returned to McCor- mick Bay, arriving there shortly after midnight of the 23d. Mr. Verhooef, whose near relatives appear to be a brother and sister, was about twenty-five years old, a former student of Yale College and latterly a resident of Louisville, Ky. He was much interested in mineralogical and statistical studies, his close application to detail making him a valuable assist- ant. He was intrusted with the me- teorological and tidal work during Lieut. Peary’s absence on the inland ice. The observations made by him are considered to be of unusual value. The ethnological work of the expe- dition is probably more complete than any that has heretofore been conduec- ted in the far north. The exceptional facilities afforded through long associa- tion with the natives and their employ- ment in all the various capacities which a housebold graced by the presence of a white woman demanded, give the re- searches in this department especial significance. CENSUS OF THE HIGHLANDERS. A complete census of all the Arctic Highlanders or Esquimaux, living north of the ice barrier of Melville Bay, with the names and relationships of the different individuals, was taken together with the photographs of more than one-half of the entire population. The enumeration gives a total of less than 250 souls. This most isolated tribe lives in a simplicity of existence which finds po parallel.” The gifts of charity, which the generosity of Phila- delphia has supplied, consisting of all manner of articles useful in construc- tion and the necessaries of the chase. may alter this condition of life, which is more ancient than apy on the Amer- ican coutinent. The scientific collections made dar- ing the present summer by the relief expedition are very extensive in all de- partments touched by it. Especially fortunate were the dredgings made in McCormick Bay, where a number of exceedingly rare forms ot animal life were discovered. Several blocks of the famous meteor- ic stone of Ovifak, aggregating more ! thar two hundred pounds, were secured | through the assistance of the Esqui- : maux, The members of the party enjoyed good health during the entire journey, which was accomplished without mis- haps of any kind. Every assistance to their work was given by Capt. Pike and the members of his crew. Lieut. Robert E. Peary and his com- panions sailed on the Kite from the foot of Warren street, Brooklyn, on June 6, 1891. Besides Mrs. Peary, who was the first white woman to brave the rigors of Greenland, were the crew and the members of the North Green- land Exploring Expedition of the Acad- emy of Natural Sciences. The crew consisted of Chief mate, Edward Tracy ; Boatswain, Patrick Dunlap ; Chief En- gineer, William Jardine ; Second Engi- neer, Alexander McKinley ; Steward, Patrick Welsh ; Cook, Thomas Pepper; Firemen—Audrew Roost, Edward Cook John Cunningham, Thomas Collins, John Cummings, John Verge and Tim- othy Looney. On June 12 the Kite left Sydney, Cape Breton, and arrived at the Straits of Belle Isle on the 15th. There the first ice was encountered, and the Kite collided with a large ice flow during the fog. When the fog cleared the ex- plorers saw the whole straits filled with one mass of ice and they retreated. Repeated attempts were subsequently made to effect an opening, and on the 19th they cleared and headed for the Island of Disco. Ou the morning of June 23 land was sighted—Cape Deso- lation, Disco was reached three days later. Lieut. Peary met his first disappoint- ment at Godhaven in not being able to secure either dogs, guides or skin cloth- ing, all of which were absolutely nec- essary to the success of the undertak- ing. After three days the party left and arrived at Upernavik on July 1, where the same difficulty presented its- elf. The next day they entered the ice of Melville’s Bay. On the 11th Lieut. Peary had his leg broken. It was while butting the ice on July 11, about 8.30 r. M., that Lieut. Peary stood back of the wheelhouse. A large cake of ice struck the rudder with great force, whirled over the iron tiller, and jammed his leg between it and the wheelhouse, breaking both bones about six inches above the ankle, He was carefully carried below into the cabin, where a bed was made for him on the afler transom. Iis own surgeon, as well as that of the scientific party, ren- dered all possible aid, but could not grant his request to transfer the frac- tare in the leg to the arm. This was a sad accident, and one which cast a gloom over the whole ship. Although Mrs. Peary must have felt the blow most keer ly, she bore up under it with warvelous courage. Her constant at- tention and care greatly helped to keep up her husband's courage, who, al- though looking at it in the most favor- able light, must have seen what a seri- ous drawback it would be tothe final success of his expeditions. It was on July 27 when the West Greenland expedition, composed of so- cialists under Prof. Helliprin, from the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sei- ences, bade adieu to the brave seven of the North Greenland expedition, as Lieut. Peary’s party was called. They came back on the steamer Kite. The place where Peary was left is on the south shore of McCormick's Bay, about seven hundred miles from the North Pole. McCormick's Bay ison the west shore of Greenland, about five hundred miles north of Upernavik, which is the nearest settlemeat to which the term civilization can be applied. On the rock shore, looking westward, just at the foot of the hills that slope toward the high land of the interior of Green- land, the foundation for their winter quarters was laid on July 25 and the work was finished July 27, and then the Lieutenant was carried out of the Kite on a litter, owing to the condition of his broken leg, and placed on shore with his companions. When the Kite steamed away and the gray shores of McCormick's Bay faded out of sight, it became the settled conviction of the Helliprin party that, as one of them wrote in his diary of July 30, “unless a relief expedition be sent to Lieut. Peary next summer he and his party will never be seen again alive,” When fthe Helliprin party reached Philadelphia on Sept. 4 they still felt that a relief expedition was a necessity. The Kite was left at St. John’s, N. F. Oo June 27 last the relief party which the Philadelphia Academy had decided to send left Brooklyn on the steamship Miranda, of the Red Cross line. The Miranda left Robinson’s stores, at the foot of Warren street, about 4 ». Mm. The Arctic relief party was headed by Prof. Angelo Helliprin. The others were Dr. Henry G. Bryant, member of the Philadelphia Academy; V. W. Stokes, sketching artist ; Dr. Jackson M. Mills, surgeon ; Albert W. Vorse ; William E, Meehan, botanists ; C. E. Hite, taxidermist; Samuel J. En- triken and Capt. Richard Pike, the “ice-master,” who was a member of the Greeley expedition of 1881. Provisions were taken on the Miran- da to last until the party reached Me- Cormick’s Bay, besides a vast quanti- ty of stores for use in the Arctic regions. Every member of the party was san- guine of finding Lieut. Peary. They signed an agreement, which wag shown before the Miranda sailed, and which read as follows: “We shall make our first stop at Godhavn, Disco,” said Dr, Bryant, just betore sailing. “There we shall meet the inspector of North Greenland. We ought to make that place in about ten days from St. John’s. As the reports that have reached us say that the ice is late in breaking up this year it may take us longer to get there,” From Disco, Dr. Bryant said, the party would go to Upernavik. They would then strike Melville Bay, which is the most dreaded, Dr. Bryant said, of all the Arctic waters, because of the floating ice this season. North of Cape York, at McCormick Bay, was the camping ground of the Peary party. Dr. Bryant said that should it be found WEAR LL le that Lieut. Peary and his party were not there, a large quantity of provisions would be landed. Should the condi- tions prove favorable, it was the «inten- tion of the scientists to examine Hum- boldi Glacier and to obtain as many specimens as might be had of Arctic life for the Academy of Natural Scien- ces. The Miravda lauded the party in St. John's just before the great fire. The whaling steamer Kite had been thor- oughly overhauled in dry dock, and was found in excellent condition. The relief ship was commanded by Capt. Edward Murphy, first officer; Patrick Dumphy, second officer; Alexander McKinley, chief engineer ; John Pens- bon, second engineer ; Lawrence Hack- ett, chief steward ; Bernard Wall, sec- ond steward ; Alexander Lindsay, cook; John Cunningham, Andrew Roost and Edward Croke, firemen, and Thomas Hayes, John Geary, Richard Fleming and Daniel McDonnell, seamen. The Kite was fully provisioned for eighteen months, besides having on board twelve months’ provisions for the Peary par- ty. The relief party expected to sail from St. John’s on July 4, but we were de- layed until the following day, caused by the transfer of apparatus and goods which were carried as presents to the Eskimos. Tach member of the relief expedition signed an agreement on June 8 by which they pledged themselves to be- come members of the expedition fitted out under the auspices of the Academy of National Sciences at Philadelphia, the leadership of which was delegated to Prof. Angelo Helliprin, They indi- vidually and collectively promised, “upon their solemn honor,” to faithful- ly observe, fulfil and carry out each and every stipulation. It was agreed that in the event of the loss or disabil- ity of Prof. Hellprin that the same ob- ligations should be extended to the second in command, Henry G. Bryant. All materials and specimens secured it was agreed should be deposited with the Academy of Natural Sciences. The publication of scientific matter pertaining to the expedition is to be the exclusive property of the Academy. Members of the party also stipula- ted that from the time they left Phila- delphia until five days after their return they would not furnish any matter for publication without the consent of the leader of the party. While they recognize the fact that spirituous liquors may be a necessity during the voyage, they pledge them- selves not to indulge in the same to ex- cess. ——David Bruce, the inventor of the type-making machine, died in Brook- lyn on Tuesday night. Mr. Bruce was in the ninety-first year of his age and had been in failing Lealth since he ‘re- ceived a stroke of paralysis in July. He was a New Yorker by birth, and of Scotch parentage. His father, whose name he bore was a printer by trade, and in 1815 started a pressroom in’ New York. Young David on leaving school began business with his father, continuing with him several years, They issued the first copy of the Bible printed in this country, Mr. Broce reading the proofsheets. In those ear- ly days type was made by hand and Mr. Bruce conceived the idea that the work could be done more expeditiously ‘by machinery. While the young man was carefully considering the idea that had come to him his parents removed to White Plains, N. J. In 1838, after much patient work, young Bruce got out various patents that covered a ma- chine turned by hand, which would turn out eighty or ninety types a min- ute. Then he made an ifaprovement and invented a type-casting machine that could be worked by steam. Mr. Bruce had always insisted that he was defrauded out of the rights to the more perfect machine, which, itis claimed, 18 used to day with some slight improve. ment. Mr. Bruce started a type foun- dry in Brooklyn forty years ago. He later engaged in the die cntting busi ness. Mr. Bruce was a devout believ- er in Spiritualism. He Has Nothing to be Proud of. From the Walla-Walla, (Wash.) Statesman. In an address before the Republican league of Illinois, Mr. Reid said that ‘we need not turn our faces, even in reminiscence, to the past.” Well he may be anxious to place a veil over his past. His past is not savory in the nos- trils ot those who admire patriotism and and that unselfishness that should char- acterize a candidate for the vice-presi- dency of these United States. When Mr. Reid attempts to close his eyes and take retrospective view, there is one word that he cannot efface from his mental vision, and one that makes life a horrid nightmare to him, and that word is “rats.” EE IT More Than He Could Stand. From the Indianapolis Journal. First Sweet Thing. ‘“Are you type- writing for old Briefs any more ?” Second S. T, “No He had some pa- pers to make out about a ‘partition suit’ one day last week, and just because I asked him if it was anything like a di- vided skirt he got mad and fired me. I don’t care, though; I'm going to get warried just as soon as Willie gets his salary raised, anyhow. More Than One Kind. An Englishman at the Hotel Athe- num asked a bell boy to bring him some good gum. A stick of the boy’s tavoritz article was procured, the boy assuring our English friend that it was unsurpassed. To the bell boy's aston- ishment, the purchaser began to rub a piece of manuscript with the gum, Af- ter 4 few seconds of vain rubbing he asked how we use gum in America, It took sume time to convince him that in America an eraser is not “a gum.” A —E——C—————— ——The WaTtcamax office is turning out better’ work than ever. Bring in your printing and let us make an esti- | mate on it for you. i The World of Women. “I have a family tree,” he plead, | “To aid me in my suit,” i “Perhaps you have,” the maiden said, i “Bat I don’t like the fruit.” { Glycerinated water renders the skin | soft, white and supple. { Hats, no matter how elegant, are not | as effective for full dress as an elaborate coiffure. Use rain water for washing the face when ever possible. It is excellent for the complexion. Rough, grater-like fingers may be made smooth and white by rubbing dai- ly with a lemon slice. Guipure lace berthas looped high above full pufled sleeves are much in vogue for young matrons. ‘When using a towel do not always rub the face in the same direction. You will thus avoid wrinkles. Miss Jean Loughborough planned the Arkansas building for the World’s Fair and superintended its construction. The most simple dresses are decorated with wide ribbon sashes, which cross at at the back and form a large butterfly bow with long erds. Above all things give the face daily several hours of absolute repose, in which the features may have a much needed freedom from expression. Bangs and trains must go. This edict has been issued by the fashion aristo- crats of Europe, and lovely woman, “who stoops to conquer,” must govern herself accordingly. Long sprays of holly, wild roses and other blooms placed on a black velvet or satin ribbon are worn across the front of the bodice, being arranged from the right shoulder to the left hip. In equatorial Africa a wife can be bought for ten bundles of hair pins. This is the reason why wives of African explorers will never permit their hus- bands to smuggle any hair pins into their luggage. Box pleats appear upon some of the newest mode in dress skirts. Some of the pleats show at the back only, others in {front and on still others they form a Watteau fold that reaches from the neck to the hem in the back. Beef-eater crowns are again fashion- able, with either flat or rolled brims; and, like the long popular English walking hats, are trimmed with a sim- plicity which should characterize all hats intended for utility purposes. The question of pockets in the tightiy fitting skirts of the day is being solved by making them at the side exactly like a man’s trousers’ pocket. These proksts should come just in front of the ips so that they do not gape open, and there should be one on each side. The beautiful and daring young wife of Lieutenant Peary, who braved the rigors and perils of a winter in the Arc. tic regions, and the civilized woman .who has been nearer the North Pole than has any other of her sex and cul- ture, is said to be only about 23 years of age. you want a Frenchy dancing robe set right to work, girls, to get together something that is inky from top to toe. A guazy, diaphanous tissue, dead black, with a long, pointed waist, black gloves fitting to a line, black fan spangled with scintilating fire-flies, black shoes with black silk hose and a tuft of jetted rib- bon in the hair will create a costume which stamps the wearer with an indi- viduality not to be attained with ordin- ary color combinations. The correct art of serving an ice is something to be acquired. At a green luncheon given recently the ices were served on porcelain leaves. Af each place was a doily of fine linen cut to re- present a leaf, with the design outlined with green silk; resting “pa the doily was the porcelain leaf. Kach leaf re- presented the leaf of an American tree. A piece of paper and pencil were given to each guest during this course, and the one who wrote the most correct list of the different leaves represented receiv- ed a prize. Some new arrangements of ribbons are on imported gowns, A large broad bow of ribbon set on the chest, and quite covering that part of the corsage is a late Parisian fancy. From this bow ribbons descend on each side of the waist and are taken up in the back to form a similar bow to that in front, put just be- tween the shoulders, from which fall long ends, making the Watteau effect. Another dress has the ribbons from the chest bow going down to a point at the waist-line in the back, then knotted in up-right loops. A third fancy is that of making the ribbon outline a deep apron, having a large square bow of four loops tied almost at the foot of the front breadth, each loop tacked to the skirt to keep it well spread in shape. The ribbon then curls up on each side of the skirt to meet at the waist line in the back, and drops thence in long sash ends. Velvet ribbon, moire and satin are used for these decorations, and it is necessary that the ribbon be double faced, as both sides are shown in differ- ent parts of the trimming. Anyone who has crossed the great ocean and spent any time in London has doubtless wondered why a white straw bonnet and fur cape have been deemed suitable for winter weather, while the same capesand felt hat have been donned when parasols and perspir- ation ruled the hour. The only answer that we could ever obtain was that fit was so very English,” and that presum- ably tha reason why our usually sensi- ble maidens are making guys of them- selves in donring a felt sailor hat that is not at all in keeping with the fllmy owns worn at this season, being usual- B of a dull brown in color, stiff, broad- brimmed and much more suggestive of hard travel than daintiness. It is made and finished like a man’s Derby and is altogether too mannish even fora tailor-made gown, yet it is English and therefore will be worn, but how the pretty girl who revels in her fluffy bangs will ever reconcile herself to this severe style is a mystery, as to be entirely correct the hair must be plain- ly drawn back from the fore- head and braided into a round nest of tiny braids covering the entire back of the head, but in the rage to copy the modes and manners of the subjects of her gracious Majesty Queen Victoria, how many dress and social atrocities are committed, yet are not only forgiven but extolled, because they are so very English.