TT A TS FY TY EE eT PE AS TY ICY Bellefonte, Pa., Sept. 9, 1892. THE EARLY OWL. An Owl once lived in a hollow tree. And he was as wise as wise could be. The branch of Learning he didn’t know Could scarce on the tree of knowledge grow. He knew the tree from branch to root, And an Owl like that ean afford to hoot! And he hooted—until, alas! one day He chanced to hear, in a casual way. An insignificant little bira Make use of a term he had never heard. He was flying to bed in the dawning light When he heard her singing with all her might “Hurray! hurray for the early worm {” “Dear me!” said the Owl, “what a singular term! 1 would look it up if it weren't solate; I must rise at dusk to investigate. Early to bed and early to rise ; Makes an Owl healthy and stealthy and wise ! So he slept like an honest ow! all day, And rose in early twilight gray, And went to work in the dusky light. To look for the early worm all night. He searched the country for miles around, But the early worm was not to be found. So he went to bed in the dawning light, An looked for the “worm” again next night. And again and again, and again and again, He sought and he sought, but all in vain, Till he must have look for a year and a day For the early worm, in the twilight gray. At last in despair he gave up the search, And was heard to remark, as he sat on his perch By the side of his nest in the hollow tree. “The thing is as plain as night to me— Nothing can shake my convictions firm, There’s no such a thing as the early worm.” Oliver Herford, in St. Nicholas. HELEN'S GOOD DEED. “Yes,” said the doctor, solemnly, “she shows every indication of going off into a decline. Rest, relaxation, change of air and scene—that’s what she ought to have.” Mrs, Dardanel looked purturbed. “Dear, dear,” elie said, “what a pity ! And she’s quite a pet of mine, too, dear little thing, She is very quick with her needle, and really ingenious—and the way she puts trimmings on a dress positively reriiuds one of Madame An- toine herself.” “The seaside cottage would be the Pace for her,” suggested Doctor IMid- and. “You are one of the lady patron- esses, I believe, and—" “Yes but the seaside cottage is full,” said Mrs. Dardnanel. “Not an inch of room unoccupied. I had a note from the matron yesterday.” “Ah, indeed!” said the doctor, fam- bling with his watch-seals. “Unfortu- nate—very.” “Bat,” cried Mrs. Dardanel, an idea suddenly occurring to her much be- puffed and befrizzled head, “there is rs. Daggett’s farm, a few miles fur- ther down theshore. She takes board- ers for five dollars a week, and I be- lieve itis a very nice place. 1f you think it advisable T will take a month’s board for the girl there. I really feel as if the dear little thing belonged to me.” “An excellent plan,” said the doctor, oracularly. “I have no doubt but that a month of sea air would make a differ- ent person of her.” Helen Hyde could hardly believe her own ears when Mrs. Dardanel beamingly announced her intentions. “The seashore I" she cried, her pale face flushing all over; “the real sea! Oh, Mrs. Dardanel, I have dreamed of it all my life! And for a long, bright summer month? Oh, how shall I ev- er thank you?” “By getting well and strong as fast as you can,” said Mre, Dardanel, touched by the girl's enthusiasm. “And here is a ten-dollar bill for you,” she added with a smile. “You may need some little trifle of dress, or there may be a drive or a picnic or an excursion going in which you will want to partic- ipate.” The poor girl's first impulse was to return the money, ; “No, you shall not give it back—it is a present from me and I choose that you shall keep it.” Helen Hyde's heart beat high with delight when first she saw the Daggett farmhouse, a long, low, red building, with an immense stack of chimneys, a cluster of umbrageous maple trees guarding it about with shade, and a dooryard full of sweet old-fashioned flowers, while in the sight of the win- dows the Atlantic flung its curling crests of foam all along the shining shore. Mrs. Daggett welcomed her warmly; she had been Mrs. Dardauel’s house- keeper once, and knew the value of that lady’s patronage. “I’ve just one room left, my dear,” she said ; “under theeaves of the house, It’s small, but it’s furnished comforta- bly and there’s a view of the ocean. I could have given you better accommo- dations if I bad received Mrs. Darda- nel's letter a day earlier. But four young ladies, teachers in the Ixwood Institute, came yesterdav, and I'm sleeping in the parlor. But we will make you as snug as possible, and the very first good sized room that is va- cant you shall have.” Helen was very happy in her little nook, from whose casement she could see the ocean, dotted with white sails. Mrs. Daggett was a driving, energet- ic woman. Farmer Daggett was an honest, vacant-faced man who invaria- bly fell asleep of an evening with his chair tipped A against the wall, and every available inch of the house was filled with summer boarders, mostly ladies. There were but three mascu- line appendages to the house besides its master, an old clergyman whose parish- ioners clubbed together every summer to treat him to six weeks’ vacation, a literary man of large aspirations and small income who had come hither for rest and opportunity to study up the “skeleton” for his next novel, and old Mr. Mifflin. It was some time before Helen Hyde fairly comprehended who old Mr. Miff- | lin was, A bent and bowed little man, | with silver hair curling over his coat, | a ruffled shirt like the pictures of our | revolutionary forefathers, and blue eyes ' that glistened from behind a pair of sil- ver spectacles, he shuffled in and out to his meals after an apologetic fashion, and sat all the bright afternoon under the maples staring at the sea. “Who is that old gentleman?’ ghe at last ventured to ask Mrs. Daggett. That lady frowned. * “It’s old Daddy Mifflin,” said she, and I wish it was anybody else.” “Is he a boarder 2” “Well, he is and he isn’t,” obscure- ly answered Mrs. Daggett, who was picking currants for a pudding while Helen sat by and watched her. ‘But he won't be here long. You see, my dear, he hasn't any friends. When me and Daggett came from Vermont and bought this place we got it pretty cheap because of old Mifflin. We were to give him the northeast chamber, and, they were to allow us so much a month for his keep. It ain’t every one that would be willing to have an old man like him about. But he’s harmless and quiet, and the two dollars a week helped us. But now Breezy Point has grown to be asummer resort, and things are changed. And what's worse his folks have left off sending the money.” “I wonder why ?” said Helen, her large dreamy eyes fixed sadly on the old man, who sat under the maples wistfully watching the sea. “They're dead, p'raps,”’ said Mrs. Daggett. “Or p'raps they’ve got. tired of him. Anyhow, it's three months since we've heard a word, and me and Daggett have made up our minds that we can’t stand it any longer. So we're going to put him on the town. Law- yer Boxall says it's legal and right, and they can’t expect nothing else of us. Squire Sodus is to send his cov- ered carryall next Saturday, and old Daddy Mifflin’ll suppose he's going for a ride. And so things'll go off all smooth and pleasant.” “Smooth and pleasant!” Helen Hyde looked across the grassy lawn to the little old man with his mild ab- stracted face, his rufiled shirt front, the silver hair that glistened in the sun- shine and the white, claw-like fingers that slowly turned themselves back- ward and forward as he sat there. “He owned the place once,” said Mrs. Daggett,” ‘*but hissons turned out bad, and be endorsed for Squire Sodus’ cous- in and lost everything. And here he isin his old age, without a penny! What is it Becky ? the oven ready for the'pies 2? Yes, I'm coming.” She bustled away, leaving Helen alone. A sort of inspiration had en- tered the girl’s heart as she sat there with the briny smell of the ocean fill- ing her senses, and the rustle of the maple leaves murmuricg softly over head, She took Mrs, Dardanel’s ten- doliar bill from her pocket and looked long and earnestly at it. She thought of the little one horse carryall which she and the girls from Ixwood were to have hired together to drive over the hills and glens all those sweet misty summer afternoons; ofthe excursions to Twin Rock by steamer, upon which she had counted, of the new black bunt. ing dress she had decided to buy. She must abandon all these little darling extrayagances it she indulged this oth- er fancy. “As if there could be any choice,” she said to herself. Then she got up and went softly across the grass and clover blossoms to where Daddy Mifflin sat. “Do you like this place ?”’ she asked softly. “It's home, my dear,” he answered seeming to rouse himself out of a rev- ery; “it’s home. Ihave lived here for eighty odd years: I could notlive any- where else.” “Bat there are other places pleasant- er. “It may be, my dear, it may be,” he said, looking at her with troubled eyes through the convex lenses of his glass- es: “But they wouldn't be the same to me," Helen went to Mrs. Daggett, who was baking pies and rolls and sirawber- ry shortcake atl at once. “Mrs. Daggett,” said she, ‘here are ten dollars which Mrs. Dardanel gave to me to do what I pleased with, and I vi to give it to you to keep old Mr. ifilin here five weeks longer.” “Mercy sakesalive ?"’ said Mrs. Dag- gett; “he ain,t no kin to you, is he?” “No,” said Helen, “but he is so old and feeble and friendless, and—and— please, Mrs. Daggett, take the money. Perhaps by the time that is gone I shall be able to send a little more. My employess are going to pay me gener- ously in the city, and I feel myself grow- ing better able to work every day.” So Helen Hyde adopted the cause of one even poorer and more friendless than herself, and for a year she paid two dollars a week steadily, and Mr. Mifflin never knew what a danger men- aced him. At the end of that time the old gen- tleman’s grandson came from some wide, wild region across the sea, a tall, dark-eyed young man with the mein of a prince in disguise. “My father has been dead a year,” he said. ‘And bis papers have only just been thoroughly investigated, so that I have just learned, for the first time, that there is an arrearage due on my grandfather's allowance. I hope he has not been allowed to suffer—? “Oh, he’s all right !”” said Mrs. Dag- gett. “We have taken excellent care of him.” “You are a noble-hearted woman,” said the young man, fervently clasping he hand, “and I will see that you are no loser by your generosity.” “It ain't me,” said Mrs. Daggett, turning red and white, for Helen Hyde, now spending her second summer at the farmhouse, sat by, quietly sewing in the window recess. “I'm free to al- low that me and Daggett got out of pa- tience and was going to put him on the town, but Miss Hyde, here, one of our boarders, she’s paid for him eversince.” “I beg your pardon if I have inter- fered,” said Helen, blushing scarlet ag the large black eyes fell scrutinizingly on her face, “but he seemed so old and helpless, that—-"" “God bless you for yournoble deed |” said Ambrose Mifflin, earnestly. But there was something in Helen's manner which prevented him from oft- ering any pecuniary recompense to her, “My grandfather will require your care no longer,” said he. “We have been fortunate in our Australian invest- ments, and Iam prepared to buy the old farm back again and settle here per- manently." And when Mrs. Dardanel began to think about getting her winter dresses made up, she received a note from Miss Hyde, which ran as follows : “DEAR Mgrs. DARDENEL :—I am sor- ry to disappoint you, but I can not un- dertake any more orders, for I am to be married next month to Mr. Ambrose Mifilin, and we are to live at the Dag- gett farm. And oh! how proud I should be if you would come here and visit me next summer, when the roses are in bloom and the strawberries rip- en. Ambrose is all that is nice, and I have the dearest old grandfather-in-law in the world. Affectionately, HeLexy Hype. And all this life's romance had grows out of Helen's month at the sea- gide. A Queer Cave. One of the Natural Wonders of the Table Moun- tain, California. From the San Francisco Bulletin. On the north side of Table Mountain and near its top is an opening in the lava that has since its early days been known as ‘the den.” It was so named from the fact that for years it was the lair of a band of ferocious California lions that, when the country was largely devoted to sheep raising, made depreda- tions upon the flocks and caused tke owners much annoyance and loss, ‘When pursued the animals would seek refuge in this den and no hunter would dare to enter it. The ground about was covered with the bones and remnants of sheep and other animals. With the increase of population the lions have gradually disappeared, although gs late as last spring two of the animals were seen to enter the cave. The Oroville Mercury says, “No known man has ever penetrated this cave to its fullest depth. The mouth is about four or five feet high and three feet wide, and the opening descends with a sharp decline for 200 feet. Furth- er than this it has never been explor- ed. Now, however, a party of young men have made arrangements to explore it, and, if possible, penetrate to its bot- tom. That it is of great denth is cer- tain, for one can stand at tne opening and heave greatstones down tone de- clivity and the sound will gradually die away in the distance. The young men have procured several hundred teet of ropes, torches and ladders and will thor- oughly explore the cavern’ What adds a peculiar interest to the expedition and gives zest to the explor- ers is the well-known fact that in the heyday of his career as a bandit, Joaquin Murietta and his band of faithful follow- ers made the recesses of the Table Mountain the base of their operations in this section. From there they would swoop down on the miners and then, luden with gold dust, retreat to the mountains. Search as they might the officers could not locate them. It has been supposed by many that this cave wes where the famous outlaw secreted himself. It may be, too, that deep down in the bowels of the earth Joaquin hid the greater portion of his ill-gotten but nevertheless just as potent wealth. Japanese Fashions. Travelers have puzzled and wondered about the serene, sweet expression of face in Japanese women. They have the sunny, merry countenances of child- hood even to old ago. A look of sweet temper and happiness flits across their varying features from morning till night, although Japanese women have not nearly so many rights 2s western women have. ‘What was the reason ? At last some body—it must have been a woman —dis- covered that the fashion of dress of Japanese ladies never changed. They wear the same graceful, loose flowing style of garment year in and year in out. When one loose waisted, loose sleeved, all over grown is worn out it is replaced by another of exactly the same pattern. Perhaps as the lady grows older it gets larger around the waist and shoulders, but this is all. The fashion is unchang- ing as that of a rose or a lily. Then the writer—it must have been a woman again--had no trouble in put- ting the two together and deciding why the Japanese ladies always are good tempered and unworried looking. They don’t have to keep up with the fashions. They don’t have to rip out the gathers of a dress one spring to make it over into a bell skirt, and the next spring piece it down around the waist to make along tailed skirt of it, and the next fall cut off’ the tail to make 1t “walking length” again. Let us have Japanese fashions in America at once. Then our ladies will look smocth unwrinkled and fair and rosy. For keeping up with the changes of dress is more worrying than the cares of state. Modernizing the Mother of Cities, From the Argonaut. The Mother of Cities ig, in some re- spects, the news of them all. Ouoe- half of Rome is as new as a backwoods settlement, and strenuous efforts are being made to furnish up the other half. But with the latest innovation in Rome thereis not much need to quarrel. The city is now lighted by elec- tricity, generated by the cascade of classic Tivoli. Such things, in such connection, sound appallingly modern; but nothing of the kind is too strange not to be true, now that we seem likely before long to hear the cry of “Change here for Damascus.” Here is a direct affront to Major Me- Kinley. A Connecticut town offers $1000,000 for the establishment within its limits of a manufacturing establish- ment that “will employ its surplus la- bor.” Is it possible that under the Me- Kinley tariff, which was signed to set every hand to work at high wages, there should be surplus labor ? It looks as if the Major is not fulfilling his promises.’ Notwithstanding the protection afforded by his tariff there is not only a surplus- age of labor, but that which is employed is kicking on sccount of the reduction of its pay. The Asiatic Cholera. How a Person Feels When They Contract the Disease. The New York Press in speaking of the cholera, now so prevalent in Eu- rope, says ; If cholera, leaping ashore from a Harve or Hamburg steamer, should hap- pen to come your way, in the fashion of a thief in the night will it come. For Herr C. Bacillus, the malevolent, life abhoring infinitesimality whose ori- ginal ancestor was born a million gene- rations back, yet not perhaps six months ago, in a hut on the Ganges may be, will make its lodgment in your vitals without any fuss or proclamation of pas- sion or noisy house warming. The first evidence of his presence you will probally attribute to your having your breakfast omelette stuffed with chicken livers, or having been tempted after dinner to look long upon the red heart of the watermelon when it is ripe, or perhaps, if you are of bibulous habit, you will blame yourself with having slaked your thirst too often during the heat and burden of the day with that which should be drawn only from the keg. It will be painless but bothersome the early portion of the stay of Herr C, Bacillus, and you will take a little bran- dy orginger and wait for the departure of this troublesome summer malady in the time and way that it has used for its previous comings and goings. But this painless, bothersome time means merely that Herr C. Bacillus is getting his house in the midst of your mortality in order. Presently, for the Bacillus family thrives as no other fam- ily ever throve before, the little Bacilli will begin to make their appearance by twin thousands, triplet millions, and when the little Bacilli begin their mer- ry play about the house of your mortal ity then-~then your wife —if you are so blest— will send for the doctor. For by this time you will have pain in the pit of your stomach and an in- tense thirst which all the waters of Croton cannot satisfy, and there will be cramps of the feet and legs and of the muscles of the abdomen and when the the doctor comes at last and lays his finger on your pulse, he will find that the skin isdry and all your flesh like Falstaff’s when Dame Quickly touched him as he lay dying, “cold as any stone.” Then your wife--if you be so blest— working over you with the hot applica- tions, the cocl effervescing drinks, which the docior orders, will struggle with a new horror of fear and agonized, una- vailing affection, for she will see that you have lost the pallid hue which you bave gained in your gaslit office or the healthy tan which you brought back from the shore, and before her starting eyes you will turn on cheek and brow toa sickly purple shade. And then your voice will sink to a low, hoarse whisper as you speak and tell her where your life insurance policy is and what lawyer to see and what to do with the childron, while she says: “Yes, dear, yes ; but don’t bother about that now,” and then you will feel yourself grow rigid, for the worst of the residence ot the C. Bacillus family within you is that with hideous malignity they uever extend that residence to your brain, and then you will be simply “another case’ in the headlines over the report ofa board of health session, a figure 1 in a tabulated report of that same responsi- ble body swelling the deaths of the day say from ten to eleven. This may all happen to you—if chol- era leaps ashore from a Harve or Ham- burg steamship—between the hours when you read The Press going down to business in the morning and the hour when only the beginning is made to- ward making up another Press, which you will not read going down to busi- ness in the morning, but another man sitting in your seat in the elevated train will ead without a thought of you or your fellow tenants fleeing in panic from the Derbyshire flats, while your next month's rent will have to come out of your insurance policy. So runs the world. All of which may seem very far foich- ed and improbable to you if your flat is a high priced one in a ‘‘nice’”’ neighbor- hood. But remember the devious ways of Herr C. Bacillus and his unexpected appearances. When he came in 1886 one of the very first places he visited was 157 Waverly place, a neighborhood where some very “nice” opis now and where ‘‘nice’’ people were in the majority then, and that in twelve hours he so populated the mortality of one Rufus Denker, a rural visitor from Grafton with little C. Bacillus that the soul of Rufus Denker was crowded out oi its tenement. CHANCES OF RECOVERY. This, to be sure, is looking at the worst side of things. If you havea doctor who is able to produce or take advantage of a ‘“‘reaction’’ in your case, it may be that your next month’s rent may not have to be paid out of your in- surance policy, He will not be certain of success even if you have the ‘‘reac- tion,” which is a sort of mutiny against the encroachments of the C. Bacillus family. If you were a bale of razs and could stand 154 degrees of heat Fahren- heit it would be simple. He could souce you full of, superheated steam and kill off the intruders in five seconds of time. But since such action would simply re- solve you from a fatal medical toa fa- tal surgical case—of scalding—he will not be apt to do this. If heis called early enough he will “dope” you with opium in small and oft-repeated doses or in combination with other astrigents such as catechu, tannin, bismuth, nitrate of silver or acetate of lead. 1f you have said, “Ob, stuff and nonsense, I don’t want any doctor,” when your wife first proposed to call him and he comes by so much later he will be obliged to have you wrapped in flannel and then sur rounded with a wall of hot water bottles or he will make you a skin tight suit of mustard plasters, while your wife—if you be so blest—cools your thirst with vichy and stimulates you with brandy or ammonia, Then if you have no re- lapse, and if the reaction be not of an imperfect character which slides off into the exhaustive fever known as “typhoid of cholera,” or if you have no dipther- | itic or local inflammatory affections, and if you keep your bed religiously forsuch period as yow may be instructed to keep it, you may live to wonder why Profes- sor Koch, when he discovered and intro- duced Herr C. Bacillus to the world, did not also discover and introduce his anti- dote. ECCENTRIC CHOLERAIC WAYS, Strangely eccentric are the ways of Professor Koch’s protege. Why he chooses the company he keeps is seldom known except in the general way of his affinity to dirt. On the night of Nov- ember 2, 1865, when the steamship At- alanta from London (Oct. 10,) via Brest (Oct. 18,) burned a rocket in the lower bay, and Dr. Lewis A. Sayre, in Health Officer Swinburne’s absense, went down to board her in a dory, he found fifteen empty bunks of dead folk inthe steer- age and thirty more full of sick living folk, and not a cabin passenger had so much as a stomach ache. Nor had they afterward, though they lay at quaran- tine for weeks and bombarded all the the authorities from Governor Fenton down with indignant demands to be let go their ways. So, too, in the next June when Herr C. Bacillus did leap ashore and slay, 1,195 New Yorkers during his summer's stay here it was found among the pas- sengers of the cholera ship Peruvian that Herr Bacillus loved to lodge in Ger man vitalities but found ro place of rest in the stout Irish stomach. That was the year, the month, the very day almost June 2, 1866, of the Fenian invasion of | Canada and the battle of Ridgeway. The Irish soul was stirred and repelled the assaults of Herr C. Bacillus as easily as it did that of the Queen’s Own of Toronto. Strange, too, was the entrance of the deadly thing in the great cholera years of 1848-9. The pest was beaten off from New York in the former year, but at the same time it made a lodgment in ill- kept, unkempt, disheveled, down-at-the- heel New Orleans, and six months atter- ward it came up the Misissippi river, and by Chicago and the lakes to Buffalo, and thence by the Erie canal to Man- hattan island, whereon before it left it had 5,071 deaths to its score, the great- est score it ever made. That was its highest score, but the deadliest fight it ever created in its first visitations—1832 34.48 66 wherein it has cut off 15,000 lives—was in 1832, That was before the applieation of steam to ocean traffic, before the great tide of immigration had set in, when New York was comparatively a little city and one which had time to think about itself and its ailments. Then business stopped while thousands fled and piles of coffins stood upon the street corners ready for those who had the need to come and take them, There were but 8,513 deaths in all and but 210 died on the 21st of July of that year, as against the 713 who perished on the same day of the vear 1849. In the earlier time cholera was a mys- terious plague, to be fled from as the wrath of God, and in the later it wasa dread disease, to be met and battled with by the recently enrolled armies of sani- tation and bygiene. The difference in the effect marked the spread of know- ledge and the diversification of interests in the time between. So if it comes now there will be no flight, no panic, no signs of terror on the streets ; but we will go our usual ways and trast to the papers for our news and the beaith authorities for our safety. A New Alloy. A Substitue for German Silver Devised. A silver bronze alloy, designed as a substitute for German silver, and intend- ed especially for rod, sheet, and wire purposes, is now made the composition consisting of little more than two-thirds copper, with certain proportions of manganese, aluminum, silicon, and zine. This alloy is represented as hay- ing a tensile strength of about 57,000 pounds on small ba.., and 20 per cent. elongation and has been roll~d into thin plate and drawn into wire of 0.008m. in diameter. The electrical resistance of the article is stated to be higher than that of German silver, and the expecta. tion is that it will prove to be a mater: ial the resistance of which will afford the elec trician better and cheaper wire for the rheostat than any other alloy. It seems that the difficulties attending the casting, ete, of a pure mangancie bronze have thus been surmounted by introducing into the alloy a small per - centage of aluminum—the addition of 1} per cent. of this metal to the alloy converting it from the most refractory in the casting process to the most satis- factory in this respect. The addition of the aluminum also insures an alloy or such greater non-corrodibility than either German or nickel silver, and with the good result attending the introduc- tion of silicon and zinc, in the propor- tion of 5 per cent. of the former and 13 of the latter, a decided success is achieved. Mills Much Broken Down. He Announces That He Will Retire From Public L.fe on Account of His Health. SAN ANTONIO, Sept. 8.—Senator Ro- ger Q. Mills, is in this city! He states that his health is very much impaired and that he will be compelled to retire from his State canvass in a few days. “I am anold man and will have to give up active political work” said he “I am completely run down now and shall take a much needed rest. I have received a great many invitations from the Democrats of the North to enter the canvass, but I have declined them all owing to the condition of my health.” Senator Mills repeated his statement that he will not take an active partin the Texas Gubernatorial fight but he will vote for Hogg. — Senator John G. Carlisle, of Kentucky, looks like an ascetic. He is tall and spare, with thin white hair and mustache, and is partial to tall white bats and light colored clothes, always with a frock coat, which he keeps tight- ly buttoned. Senator Carlisle’s man- ners are cold and reticent. He is sixty, and strides through the streets rapidly. He comes from the State so picturesque- ly described at the Chicago Convention “where the maidens are the fairest and sweetest, where the matrons are the most wholesome and womanly, and where the whiskey is £0 choice that intemperance is a virtue.” Northern Democrats say ‘“Car-lisle,”’ to the amazement of Southern Democrats, who say “Car-lisl.” 1 i The World of Women. The Orderly Girl. When looking for a summer girl, With whom, perchance, to mate, It’s just as easy to pick out one With her galluses on straight. A sailor hat of coarse white straw has an Alsatian bow of black velvet resting flat on the brim. Miss Calhoun, of the Treasury De- partment, is said to handle 85,000 coins daily and detect counterfeits at a touch. Stripss are still in favor, and the wo- man who does not number at least one striped gown in her wardrobe may count herself not “up to date. Black, ecru and white silk mulls are used in making the little toy capes worn with summer dresses, also fishers’ net and silk grenadine. The handsome English mohairs have been greatly used in the formation of stylish, durable and lady-like traveling costumes for journeys by land and sea. Several observant ladies have discov- ered that vegetarians have clear com- plexions, and have either renounced the use of meat entirely or partake of it sparingly. Ribbon garniture will maintain its popularity—at times, plain ; at others, reversible, in two colors— moire and satin for edging purposes. Equally popular are embroideries laid on flat: Fine light wool costumes for summer journeys are made with bell skirts and low peasants waist of the goods, plain, striped or checked, that reaches just un- der the arms. Above this is a waist of wash silk, which is always cool and comfortable. Many varieties of color have been added to the familiar standard shades and there are also pretty figures, bars, dots, sprigs and stripes are introduced on some of the newer weaves. Gowns made of these fabrics can be worn until the snow falls. In Sweden. whera many bread-win- ning employments are open to women, a recent bill to the legislature asks for permission to hold office as sexton in the State Church. A school of horticulture has also been lately established to pre- pare women gardeners and florists. The manufacturers are again making an effort to introduce pique, and both white and colored piques are exhibited. The material is of lighter quality than that once so fashionable, and bayadere stripes of china blue, or dark crimson, in conjunction with white, are among the new fancies. A box pleated ruche of ribbon ison many French dresses. The preference here is for a folded collar 0 ribbon fastened in the back or on one side with a small chou or butterfly bow. Braces of satin ribbon are folded to a point in front and black of dress waists, then box pleated very full on the shoulders at the top of the wide sleeves. Mrs. Hannibal Hamlin, the wife of the late Vice-President Hamlin, who served with Lincoln during the war, is a most intellectual and lovely woman, She lives in the old Hamlin homestead, in Bangor, Maine, and is perfectly con- tented in that beautiful city. She is surrounded by hosts of friends at all jimes and entertains at every season of the year: In fashionable skirts the bell and cor- net varieties are almost universal. No- thing appears more simple than either of these models, but it is far more diffi- cult to give aplomb, characier and ele- gence to a perfectly plain costume than one would imagine, and it is these very essentials that so many of the so-called “‘tailor-made’”’ costumes lack. It re- quires the most experienced masterhand to prodace a genuine, simple, elegant, unadorned, fir ‘shed tailor costume. The Eaton jacket, with blouse front, is universally popular. It has quite taken the place of the open fronted sum- mer jackets, The Eaton jacket proper is cut in one width in the back, with no seams. The skirt worn with it is in princess form, and it is loose-fronted from the darts only. Just as often it is made in independent fashion. All pre- vailing modes appear to be designed for tall, slim figures, taking no notice of the requirements of those who represent the opposite type. It is seid that for evening in the com- ing season elaborate coiffures, with curls on the neck, will be worn. Velvet rib- bon knotted is still much worn, and black velvet is often seen in the daytime twisted through the coils and tied on top of the head at the beginning of the parting. Around the face the locks are arranged at will, as little friz as possible being the favorite, but to most features a slight softening is required. Elderly women dress their hair more elab- orately than young girls, and are allow- ed quite as much liberty in the way of soft frizzes and curls around the face. Her white summer hat had been through the wear and tear of a serson, and as autumn was rapidly nearing the question arose, ‘‘Where to get a fall chapeau?’ The old white leghorn was so sadly soiled, and, its trimming of creamy ribbon and silk poppies showed so many grimy smirches, that the owner of this dilapidated piece of headgear, whose fund of eriginality was larger than her bank account, fully realized the necessity of an autumn hat. The summer vacation had eaten up in an astonishing short time her limited allowance, and for a wkile things look- ed pretty gloomy. Finally, however, Mother Wit cama to the aid of the young woman and offered the means by which that old white leghorn might be transformed into the swellest of swell fall chapeaux. With a bottle of shoe blacking the girl gave several glossy coats to the dusky white surface of the straw, until it was as black as tke wing of a raven. Then the cream ribbons were dyed black like the hat, while the poppies emerged from a bath of Roman red, looking like the freshest of bright red fiowars. A skillful wiring of the brim enabled the ingeniuus young milliner to indulge in a few fantastic twists ana curves, and the flowers and ribbon were so skillfully intermingled that they might have bestowed credit upon a French modiste. The result of this bit of economical maneuvering was a mod- ish chapeau, which only the maker's most intimate friends. who are in. the secret would dream of putting at less !'than a fancy price of fifteen or twenty dollar.